m^- 


A^ 


^.^ 


^^ 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


/. 


4. 


j£p 


'^°   'C^x 


r/. 


!.0    lif 


I.I 


1.25 


M 

■63 

It  1^ 


iiiiii 

M 
1.8 


U    IIIIII.6 


VQ 


<^^/      A- 


%'*" 


•>,■ 


/.< 


V 


/r 


Photographic 

Sdences 

Corporation 


23  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  14580 

(716)  872-4503 


& 


CIHM/ICMH 

Microfiche 

Series. 


CIHM/iCMH 
Collection  de 
microfiches. 


Canadian  Institute  for  Historical  Microreproductions  /  Institut  Canadian  de  microreproductions  historiques 


1 


Technical  and  Bibliographic  Notes/Notes  techniques  et  bibliographiques 


The  Institute  has  attempted  to  obtain  the  best 
original  copy  available  for  filming.  Features  of  this 
copy  which  may  be  bibliographicaliy  unique, 
which  may  alter  any  of  the  images  in  the 
reproduction,  or  which  may  significantly  change 
the  usual  method  of  filming,  are  checked  below. 


n 


Coloured  covers/ 
Couverture  de  couieur 


I      I    Covers  damaged/ 


n 


Couverture  endommag6e 


Covers  restored  and/or  laminated/ 
Couverture  restaur6e  et/ou  pellicul6e 


I      I    Cover  title  missing/ 


Le  titre  de  couverture  manque 


I      I    Coloured  maps/ 


D 


Cartes  g6ographiques  en  couieur 


Coloured  ink  (i.e.  other  than  blue  or  black)/ 
Encre  de  couieur  (i.e.  autre  que  bleue  ou  noire) 


I      I    Coloured  plates  and/or  illustrations/ 


D 


Planches  et/ou  illustrations  en  couieur 

Boui.d  with  other  material/ 
Reli6  avec  d'autres  documents 

Tight  binding  may  cause  shadows  or  distortion 
along  interior  margin/ 

La  reliure  serr^e  peut  causer  de  I'ombre  ou  de  la 
distortion  le  long  de  la  marge  intdrieure 

Blank  leaves  added  during  restoration  may 
appear  within  the  text.  Whenever  possible,  these 
have  been  emitted  from  filming/ 
II  se  peut  que  certaines  pages  blanches  ajoutdes 
lors  d'une  restauration  apparaissent  dans  le  texte, 
mais,  loijque  cela  6tait  possible,  ces  pages  n'ont 
pas  6t6  film6es. 


L'Institut  a  microfilm^  le  meilleur  exemriiaire 
qu'il  lui  a  <§t6  possible  de  se  procurer.  Us  details 
de  cei  exemplaire  qui  sont  peut-Atre  uniques  du 
point  de  vue  bibliographiqua,  qui  peuvent  modifier 
une  image  reproduite,  ou  qui  peuvent  exiger  une 
modification  dans  la  methods  normale  de  filmage 
sont  indiquds  ci-dessous. 

□   Coloured  pages/ 
Pages  de  couieur 

□    Pages  damaged/ 
Pages  endommagdes 

I — I    Pages  restored  and/or  laminated/ 


Pages  restaurdes  et/ou  pelliculdes 

Pages  discoloured,  stained  or  foxei 
Pages  d6color6es,  tachet^es  ou  piqudes 

Pages  detached/ 
Pages  d^tachdes 

Showthrough/ 
Transparence 

Quality  of  prir 

Quality  indgaie  de  I'impression 

Includes  supplementary  materii 
Comprend  du  materiel  suppldmentaire 

Only  edition  available/ 
Seule  Edition  disponible 


r'ZX  Pages  discoloured,  stained  or  foxed/ 

I      I    Pages  detached/ 

r~~}  Showthrough/ 

I      I    Quality  of  print  varies/ 

I      I    Includes  supplementary  material/ 

I — I    Only  edition  available/ 


D 


Pages  wholly  or  partially  obscured  by  errata 
slips,  tissues,  etc.,  have  been  refilmed  to 
ensure  the  best  possible  image/ 
Les  pages  totalement  ou  partiellement 
obscurcies  par  un  feuillet  d'errata,  une  pelure, 
etc.,  ont  6t6  filmdes  d  nouveau  de  fapon  d 
obtenir  la  meilleure  image  possible. 


0 


Ac'dUional  comments:/ 

Coh'  mentaires  suppl^mentaires; 


Irregular  pagination  :   [i]-  xii,  11 -359,  [1]-8,  [1]-  8  p. 


This  item  is  filmed  at  the  reduction  ratio  checked  below/ 

Ce  document  est  filmd  au  taux  de  reduction  indiqui  ci-dessous 

10X                             14X                              18X                             22X 

26X 

30X 

y 

1 

12X 


16X 


20X 


24X 


28X 


32X 


ails 

du 

tdifier 

une 

nage 


The  copy  filmed  here  has  been  reproduced  thanks 
to  the  generosity  of: 

National  Library  of  Canada 


The  images  appearing  here  are  the  best  quality 
possible  considering  the  condition  and  legibility 
of  the  original  copy  and  in  keeping  with  the 
filming  contract  specifications. 


L'exemplaire  it\m6  fut  reproduit  grSce  d  la 
gdndrosit6  de: 

Bibkiothdque  nationals  du  Canada 


Las  images  suivantes  ont  6t6  reproduites  avec  le 
plus  grand  soin,  compte  tenu  de  la  condition  et 
de  la  nettetd  de  l'exemplaire  film6,  et  en 
ronformit6  avec  les  conditions  du  contrat  de 
filmage. 


Original  copies  in  printed  paper  covers  are  filmed 
beginning  with  the  front  cover  and  ending  on 
the  last  pcge  with  a  printed  or  illustrated  impres- 
sion, or  the  back  cover  when  appropriate.  All 
other  original  copies  are  filmed  beginning  on  the 
first  page  with  a  printed  or  illustrated  impres- 
sion, and  ending  on  the  last  page  with  a  printed 
or  illustrated  impression. 


Les  exemplaires  originaux  dont  la  couverture  en 
papier  est  imprimde  sont  filmds  en  commengant 
par  le  premier  plat  et  en  terminant  soit  par  la 
dernidre  page  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
d'impression  ou  d'illustration,  soit  par  le  seconr' 
plat,  selon  le  cas.  Tous  les  autres  exemplaires 
originaux  sont  film6s  en  commenpant  par  la 
premidre  page  qui  comportd  une  empreinte 
d'impression  ou  d'illustra'ion  et  en  terminant  par 
la  dernidre  page  qui  coriporte  une  telle 
empreinte. 


The  last  recorded  frame  on  each  microfiche 
shall  contain  the  symbol  ^^>  (meaning  "CON- 
TINUED "),  or  the  symbol  V  (meaning  "END  "). 
whichever  applies. 


Un  des  symboles  suivants  apparaitra  sur  la 
dernidre  image  de  cheque  microfiche,  selon  le 
cas:  le  symbole  — ^>  signifie  "A  SUIVRE",  le 
symbole  y  signifie  "FIN". 


Maps,  plates,  charts,  etc.,  may  be  filmed  at 
different  reduction  ratios.  Those  too  large  to  be 
entirely  included  in  one  exposure  are  filmed 
beginning  in  the  upper  left  iiand  corner,  left  to 
right  and  top  to  bottom,  as  many  frames  as 
required.  The  following  diagrams  illustrate  the 
method: 


Les  cartes,  planches,  tableaux,  etc.,  peuvent  dtre 
fiimds  d  dns  taux  de  reduction  diffdrents. 
Lorsque  ie  document  est  trop  grand  pour  itre 
reproduit  en  un  seul  clichd,  il  est  film6  d  partir 
de  Tangle  supdrieur  gauche,  de  gauche  d  droite, 
et  de  haut  en  bas,  en  prenant  le  nombre 
d'images  ndcessaire.  Les  diagrammes  suivants 
illustrent  la  m^thode. 


rrata 
o 


)elure. 


3 


32X 


1 

2 

3 

1 

2 

3 

4 

5 

6 

'^p. 


f 


^^/-.<-'^^.  ■  ■'<'^f'^iak-3i.^.i^mmi%if^:23B!^-:^'mf' ''■i'^ ;'5*%ip5-f"vv^«ji<  .<, 


I 


m 


ip« 


^ 


"'"//'  I'luiin 


I'.  Miirini, 


{'■'■'"H, 


•//, 


'V'v, 


'// 


/H'.'-' 


/ 


./)V? 


/ 


/ 


/ 


Sil 


f 


X 


cc 


.>>     <<, 


-^^^     'ti  ^  t     -<4^ 


1  ^      *  ^ 


\ 


■\ 


>,, 


■-V 


.te. 


HO" 


.■>" 


[I'llllcl,;,   H 

^/'.  Milriili,,  , 


'V... 


■''4 


'^''-.... 


=55-, 


■?• 


m 


«o» 


-p~ 


/ 


.....\  ^ 


Y^'  ..'/■'''.ii "'""'' 


't* 


:& 


s- 


■•<^ 


4^1 


-Hftfn^ 


\ 


/ 


/ 


\ 


\ 


\ 


y 


<v 


l'^  r\^ 


■'■i 


ao" 


i,<^ 


^'^ 


'■^^^ 


:>^-' 


^ 


\ 


/ 


I 


H 


l> 


i-i 


« 

^^ 

o 

5- 

^ 

■» 
.v 

>'. 

<                .N 

->     ^ 

<§>/ 

«»'\ 

y'''" 
/ 

^'' 

.N^' 

3. 

V 

-. 

f  ■ 


If-  ;■; 


i   / 


OysJ  i 


x.S- 

J5 


VX'^^S^ 


''t. 


'■'■■■:.. 


■r.  ■ 


7 


•M  <•    I     I    .1 


I    il     II 


o   ( 


<:  I 


nT- 

.*v 

.•\ 

^ 

Kv^  ""^ 

^' 

**%■ 

S: 

*^* 

.  .-■       ."^ 

^ 

i^-        5: 

^ 

'         ^" 

■^^ 

.?  ,^v  /^  /  • 


■>"   V 


><• 


'"'* 


■"."/'  /, 


'/* 


fiu 


"""">X„iy  Ch.nli 


'"'',. 


/'/ 


''M 
■« 


„■  /''"T' 


^<^     ...Air" 


n 


'<^^\K        * 


'^.. 


/.. 


(*■'"  .•i^,,,..' 


*,'  i<' 


\'.A^ 


/     frrrswilIH 


•^'•<. 


C  t 


•'«?/< 


Hot       4- 

9,1 

//-•    r,       ...  < 


NP"***? 


^•1     / 


,-.a;-/;././//  V 

,;,    <         ^    ISLANDS 

■/■""'■' '  \  J       r  Li  M 

IT  X^.'.'.vl.l.sil"''** 


HAHrKH    X    HKOTJIKWS    NKW   YOllK 


— :r 


II''  .  "/      -J"       ^•.■c'-l 

■"•>^)  i.i;'"    .1.    *~^^  .  ^_ 


, :":;::^y  ..■•'■;v:;i-'::;;::.^^^ 


^ ;?  ■  r'K!";2S?;:^--:;r:^,....;;;;.^i.- 


«i  ...OU«^     IS  LAN  I,        / 


'%. 


'-., 


\ 


^     i?       ,'v  K  N 1 N' s  r  I. •''^  N. ,■  /'.V''"" 

lyiii''}'    '^^^x-r 


^/ 


SVii/iiiy,'  /'/i      ^pi»* 


/<.ii-  ■" 


rwiir "^ii'i'wwn,  "^^■' 


JMT  West 


llAUrKK    \    nHOTIIKKS    NFAVYOUK 


,.'.  Bri'i??" 


N. 


X 


H  ^ 


.^'  »•' 


^}^^ 


»■    ^\^'V»',.<^  ,,-»' 


^VV   ..(\- 


I'" 


N 


/'.inis     /'■'"'''' 


( 


o.^-";^^  '^^^  ^J'^/'  >' 


\ 


I 


jVnvv 


,^H. 


IMMI 


www 


i   (    I 


n 


n436 


•|<>     IIIK 


<ifki(i;ks.  si;aaii;.\.  and  aiaiiimjs, 

\MIO    KOU    SKVKIlAt,    Vi:,Uts    IIAVi;    i,ki:n-    KMI'K.VM.    UN 

VOYAGES  TO   THE    ARCTIC    REGIONS, 

I-OU  Tift:  SEAUilI  OF  A  NnUTin\K>|-    passai;!;  FKo.M  ■ii|[.; 
A'J'LANTIC  To  TJJE  l'A(  IFIC, 

AN-D  KOU  T-IK  ADVAN-Ci^M  KN  r  ny  s,,':i:NVE  ANU  OEuviKAi'lI  v. 

AMI    WHO, 

RV     TiiKIR     l.KVOTKI.     ZKAI.,     .OIKA,.,:,      \M,     l.-nilTITII.i;,     Hash 
.SL'J-I'(tl;||;|)    TIIK    lUiill     IHAKACTKU     Of 

THIS  KKCOKO  C<F  T::E.'li  VALUAHr.E  .SKUVICE;-! 

IS,    WITH    OUtAT    UK(;a1!I)    AM)    A  DM  1 II  ATID.V, 
I.N.SCKIIIKH, 
nv    THKllt    MM  tut    Wtl.L-VVISllKH, 

•lUll.N   J'.AinfUW. 


J 


PREFACE. 


Ir,  by  brin^^ing  forward  the  present  volume, 
J  shall  have  succeeded  in  allbrdinir  irratilication 
to  those  who  are  mainly  the  objects  ol"  it,  my 
princijial  aim  will  be  accomplished  :  in  the  com- 
pilation of  it,  I  was  influenced  by  the  consider- 
ation that   such  an  epitome  was  due  to  those 
whose  persevering  and  adventurous  exertions 
for  the  extension  and  improvement  of  science 
and  geography  have  conferred  a  public  benefit; 
but  it  did  not  escape  mc  that  something  of  this 
kind  was  also  wanting,  and  migiit  be  'acceptu- 
ble,  to  suj.ply  the  j.Iace  of  the  oOicial  quarto  vol- 
umes,  whose  costly  size   and  decorations  pre- 
clude them  from  the  general  and  ordinary  class 
of  readers.     By  the   copious  details  they  em- 
brace, in  every  branch  of  astronomical  and  nau- 
tical science,  of  geography,  metcorologv,  and 
other  physical  researches— the  charts  and  prints 
by  which  they  are  illustrated— they  are  made 
highly  valuable  to  the  man  of  science  and  taste, 
and  well  adapted  for  public  libraries,  or  those 
generally  found  in  the  mansions  of  the  wealthy  ; 
but  they  arc  not  exactly  suited  for  general  cir- 
culation. 


J 


VI 


I'll  E  FACE. 


It  was  pretty  munh  on  the  same  grounds  that, 
some  years  ago,  when  the  renewal  of  the  search 
for  a  Northwest  Passage  was  set  on  foot,  I  was 
in(hice(l  to  bring  out  a  sniall  volume  descrijttive 
of  the  discoveries  and  exploits  of  our  old  ''  ma- 
rine worthies"  in  the  Arctic  regions,  commen- 
cing in  tlie  days  of  the  Cabotas :  the  originals 
of  which  being  confined,  in  like  .'uanncr,  to  the 
Iiuge  folios  of  the  old  chroniclers,  were  very  lit- 
tle known  to  the  })ublic  at  large.  The  object 
\vhich  I  then  had  in  view  was  to  show  brielly 
what  had  been  accomplished  by  the  former  race 
of  British  naval  officers  and  their  hardy  sea- 
men, and,  at  the  same  time,  to  make  their  deeds 
more  familiarly  known  to  the  existing  race 
about  to  be  employed  on  similar  pursuits,  and  in 
the  same  regions  of  the  globe. 

A  like  view  of  setting  forth  to  public  notice 
the  arduous  services  of  our  recent  Arctic  voy- 
agers by  sea  and  land — of  endeavoring  to  ap- 
preciate their  several  characters  and  conduct, 
so  uniformly  displayed  in  their  unflinching  per- 
severance in  dillicultics  of  no  ordinary  descrip- 
tion— their  jiatient  endurance  of  extreme  suiler- 
ing,  borne  without  murmuring,  and  with  an 
ctiuanimiLy  and  fortitude  of  mind  under  the  most 
ap))alling  distress,  rarely  if  ever  equalled,  and 
such  as  could  only  be  supported  by  a  superior 
dnnri-po  of  moral  rourniro  and  resifrnation  to  the 


f 


PREFACE. 


Vll 


Divine  will-— of  clisp]ayin<?  virtues  like  these  of 
no  ordinary  cast,  and  such  as  will  not  fail  to  ex- 
cite the  sympathy  and  challenge  the  adniiratioa 
of  every  right-^jclin-  reader— has  been  the 
pleasing  yet  anxious  object  of  the  ;  resent  vol- 
nnie. 

Officers  such  as  arc  herein  mentioned  are  sure 
to  create  corresponding  good  seamen— by  the 
establishment  of  regular  discipline  and  good  or- 
der—by judicious  employment  to  prevent  idle- 
ness and  discontent— by  allowing  amusement 
and  mirthful  Iiilarity  to  divert  the  mind  from 
des])ondency— and,  above  all,  by  attention  to 
their  wants  and  to  their  comforts— these  are  the 
means  to  inspire  confidence  and  obtain  obedi- 
ence ;  and  seamen  so  commanded  and  treated 
will  never  receive,  because  they  will  never  re- 
quire,  any  kind  of  corporal  punishment. 

The  perilous  incidents  and  adventures  to 
which  many,  both  officers  and  men,  were  nec- 
essarily exposed— the  hopes  and  fears  by  which 
they  were  alternately  excited— arc  so  well  and 
lorcibly  described  in  the  several  Journals  of  the 
former,  that  I  have  endeavored  to  preserve,  as 
far  as  it  could  be  done,  their  own  respective 
statements  in  their  own  words,  singly,  or  inter- 
woven  into  the  text  of  the  present  narrative. 

The  physical  power  of  the  navy  of  England 
has  long  been  duly  appreciated  at  homer  also 


VlJl 


PREFACE. 


by  most  foreign  nations,  and  is  matter  of  public 
record  ;  its  moral  inllucnce,  though  less  the  ob- 
ject of  publicity,  reciuires  only  to  be  more  ex- 
tensively known  to  bo  equally  felt  and  esteem- 
ed ;  and  nothing  can  be  more  conducive  to  this 
end  than  the  results  to  be  derived  from  voy- 
ages of  discovery  such  as  those  under  consid- 
eration, whose  great  aim  has  been  the  acquisi- 
tion of  knowledge,  not  for  England  alone,  but 
for  the  general  benefit  of  mankind. 

It  may  be  noticed  that  the  present  epitome  is 
meant  to  convey  the  substance  of  six  or  seven 
large  quarto  volumes,  with  two  or  three  small- 
er ones,  containing  together  from  three  to  four 
thousand  pages,  exclusive  of  four  or  five  other 
volumes,  consisting  entirely  of  subjects  in  natu- 
ral history,  which  on  the  present  occasio;i  do 
not  fall  within  my  province. 

I  can  not  but  feel  it  a  most  gratifying  reflec- 
tion th^at,  in  so  great  a  number  of  persons  who 
have  been  employed  and  passed  several  winters 
in  one  of  the  most  Cold,  dark,  and  desolate  re- 
gions of  the  globe,  so  few  lives,  in  some  of  the 
ships  none,  have  been  lost.  It  is  equally  grat- 
ifying to  have  the  opportunity  of  recording, 
which  I  have  not  omitted  to  do,  that  most  of 
those  who  survived  the  trial  have  received  ad- 
vancement in  their  professional  career,  or  some 
distinction  of  honor,  in  reward  of  their  services  ; 


PREFACE.  j^ 

and  that  there  are  few  of  those  in  tlie  hiferior 
rauKs  wlio  have  not  improved  their  condition  in 
hie,  ,n  eonsc.,uence  of  their  good  con.h.ct  on 
very  trying  occasions. 

I  have  used  tlie  liberty  of  making  a  fe«-  brief 
occasional  remarks  on  some  of  the  vova.es 
wh.ch  1  am  sure  the  gallant  conductors  ol"ti;m' 
vv.ll  take  m  good  part,  knowing,  as  they  well  do. 
l.e  great  interest  I  have  felt  in  their  success, 
from  their  commencement  down  to  the  e.isti,,,. 
expedition  under  the  command  of  the  .allan't 
veteran  Sir  John  Franklin,  whom,  whh  hi! 
biavo  oOicers  and  men,  may  God  preserve  * 

Jhr  KREnrs. 
.'-•ir  Jdlin  hniiiklin,  ("(i,)t;,in 
•I'lin.  H  FitzJHines,  Coinmau.lrr. 
'■raliiiin  (ion 


'■raliiiin  (ion-,  \ 

il'n.'J'.  I).  I,,,\V.«rontn  (    ^''•'"• 
.'■■IS.  \V„i.  Fairhohii,.    '  (tL'iimfa. 
<'li;irlr,s  F.  !),..s  \„ux'  ) 

jtolMTt  O.  .Sai-rnt,    '(.Mate 
1'.  'ouch,  ( 

W       I,'      f'..ll._-      r,  .■>.. 


TKnnon. 
I>U'har(l  Ci-uziri,  Captain. 

Kil.   Littir,  ^ 

','',"•  !'■  "•"''■'•-on,  U,i,.ut,-nant.s. 

Fi-filrrir  Udi-niiv,  )  ., 
JuihiTt  Tlioiiia-'     I   Mates, 
'nunnas  lilatik.v,  I,v  .Master 
''.A.  .Maeh.aii,  .S'etind  .Master 
i';'"'  ■"■,  •' ,  Hu.-e„„. 

Alex.M-.„nal,l,A,..-ist.S,u-.^eon. 
•'■  "•  ••I'liniiMii,  Clrrk  in  Charire. 

U  AVarraiit  ami  I'eftv  ()llicef.s 
•>7_fcoanien  and  Muriiies. 
(id  Total. 


H.  1'.  Collins.  Second  Mn-ter. 
^tejihen  S.  Stanley,  Suruvi.n. 
^1.  n.  (.uodsir.  Assistant .^iirL'eon. 
_JMiiiea  Read,  Jcc  Master. 

1^  Warrant  and  J'etty  Otlicerg. 
oH_>eiuijiu  and  Marines. 
70  Total. 

In  rocordin.^  the  nam.s  of  the  above  menti.me.l  officer,  thoso 


^  I'REFACE, 

.li.sposition,  he  has  made  hhnsdf  a  universal  favorite  i„  the  naw 
an.l  I  a,u  iuost  haj.py  to  a.M  that,  in  his  ah.sonce,  the  lioard  of 
A.  m.ra  ty  have  promoted  hi,„  to  the  rank  of  Caj.tain.  Lieutc^l- 
ant  (,rahan.  Gore  served  in  the  last  fearful  voyage  of  the  Ter^o  • 


CONTENTS. 


Preface  .    .    .  I'as" 
V 

CHArTER  I. 
''Z.nuJ^tI::PZA:'  ^^^'--^^^""N^rthwest  Passage  Irorn  tho 

CIJAPTKR  If. 

COMMANDER  JOHN   ROSS 

«wO 

CHAPTER  IIJ. 

CAPTAIN   DAVID    DUCIIAN 

41) 

CHAPTER  IV. 

riEUTEVANT    PARRV'S    FIRST   VOYAGE 

CHAPTER  V. 

CLAVERING   AND   SABINE, 

tojuni  the  Llhpucity  ol  the  EartJi,  by  Hwind,,,^  tLc  Pendulum      .    "j4 

CHAPTER  VI. 

COMMANDER  PARHY's  SECOND  VOYAGE 

u^^  Ji;;;ii':;ui  iS;;;.;^:!':''':"""'  "^'  ':"'^  ':"'^":'^'?  '"■"'T"ri07 

CHAPTER  VII. 

CAPTAIN   GEORGE    LYON, 

fn  tho  Gripor— Procordcl  up  Hudson's  Strait   Fox's  rinnjicl  tl.o  \V«i 
'"m.-t-nabl.,-  to  reach  Kqn.l..  Pay-R^turu!.,!  '  '  ''."  Mr^ 


xu 


CONTENTS. 


f'TTAI'TKll  Vni. 

CAPTAIN    rAllRYS    TIIIUD   VOYAGE, 

In  thn  'llrc\n  nnd  Fury — rrorcodnl  up  Davie'H  Stniit  nnd  TUiUin's  I'.ny 
into  Liiiiciisti  r  Sound  luid  I'rince  liff;fnt'd  Inlet,  wlicre  tlic  I'ury  wim 
wri'i'kL'iJ,  and  ho  rctuna'ii I'ago  l(i(J 

CHAPTER  IX. 

CAPTAIN   PAIUIV'S   FOrRTH  VOYAGE, 

In  tlip  TIpcIji — Aa  i'lir  as  SjiitzhiTircn — Tlicnco  in  tlii^  Ronts  townrd  tlio 
Nortli  I'olii  —  llciK.'licd  niMirly  tliu  ti'M  d('i,Tt'o  of  liitituilf,  and  rr- 
tunied l'J7 

CHAPTER  X. 

FllANKLIN  AND  RICUAnDSOV. 

Joumny  through  North  Anirrica  to  th(!  Polar  Sen,  and  along  the  const 
I'roui  Copper  Mine  River  to  Point  Tuni-iiguin SW.) 

CHAPTER  XI. 

FRANKLIN   AND   RICHARDSON. 

Second  .Tourney  to  the  I'olar  >^i'n,  to  the  Mackenzie  River,  thence  west- 
ward to  tiie  Ui'turn  CUtl',  and  eastward  to  the  Copper  Mine  Jiiver    5i7'J 

CHAPTER  XII. 

back's     JOURNEY 

Thnnicli  Nortli  America — Down  a  ISiver  not  before  naviunted  hy  Euro- 
pcanH  to  itri  J'lstuai'y  on  tlu;  I'olar  .Sea — lioth  now  known  hy  the  name 

of  Back ;u;{ 

CHAPTER  XIII. 

back's  voyage 

Townrd  Repulse  Rny — Shut  up  in  the  Ice,  and  floated  on  the  Ice  in  the 
midst  of  the  Ocean  off  the  east  coast  of  Southampton  Island  nearly  n 
whole  your fiiiU 

CHAPTER  XIV. 

MISCELLANEOUS. 

1.  Cnpt.  .Tohn  ]{oss'g  Second  Voyage,  in  a  Merchant  Vessel. 

2.  Select  ('omniittef-  of  th(>  H()US(>  of  (Commons  on  that  Voyaffe. 

'J.  Discoveries  on  the  South  (Joast  of  the  Polar  Sea.  Hy  Mr.  Thoma.s 
Simpson LfM 


DIRECTIONS  FOR  PLAC1N3  TIIE  MAPS. 

Chart  of  Simpson's  Strait,  t(j  fact;  paijc  '358, 

tieneral  Polur  Cliart  and  the  Arctic  Reijions,  at  the  end. 


f 


.;^ 


— »- 


ARUTIC    VOYAGES. 


<i 

*>* 

h 

^" 

« 

r 

< 

-  i'; 

W 

Sir 

u 

T. 

S^.*  .> 


CHAPTKIl  I. 
IiNTRODLCTIUN. 

So  niiich  lias  lu-cii  siiid  on  tlio  subject  nf  a  norlliwivsf 
piissa;j,o  tVom  tlin  Atliiiitic  to  tlio  Pacific,  aixl  so  many 
ciTontMiu.s  notions  Imvo  been  afloat  concerninf^  it,  that  I 
(IfciM  it  projx'i-,  hy  way  of  introdtictioii,  to  account  for 
tlio  recent  revival  of  the  iifteinpts  to  discover  if. 

"Ainoiii;  the  chanjies  ami  vicissitudes  to  which  the 
jiiiysical  constitution  of  our  ^lobo  is  pjM'petually  subject, 
out?  of  the  most  extraonlinary,  and  fnun  whidi  the  most 
iiitei  stiiii^  and  important  results  may  be  aiiticiputcMl,  ap- 
j)eais  to  hav(f  taken  place  in  the  coursci  of  the  lust  two 
or  three  years,  and  is  still  in  proi,'ressiv(<  operation.  Tlie 
convulsion  of  an  eurtli(piake,  and  the  eruption  of  ii  volca- 
no, forci*  themselves  into  notice  by  the  tlismay  and  dev- 
astation with  which,  in  a  greater  or  less  (l»'i;ree,  they  are 
almost  always  attended  ;  but  the  ('veiit  to  which  we  al- 
Iiidt^  has  biM'ii  so  (juietly  accomplished,  that  it  inii,dit  have 
remained  unknown  but  t'or  an  extra(»rdinary  chiin,i;e  which 
a  few  intelligent  nuvijL^ators  remarkcsd  in  the  stato  of  tli<5 
Arctic  ice,  and  the  rcjptnts  of  the  unusual  quantities  of  this 
ice  observed  in  tht^  Atlantic." 

The  extract  here  quoted  must,  1  beliovo,  bo  laid  at  my 
door.  Tim  ovent  alludcul  to  was  the  disappearance  of 
the  whole,  or  f^reatcM'  j)art,  of  th(^  vast  barrier  of  ice 
which  for  a  lonjf  j)eriod  of  tinus  perhaps  for  centuries, 
was  supposed  to  have  maintained  its  lirm-rooted  position 
on  the  eastern  coast  of  Old  (iretMiIand  ;  and  its  reappear- 
ance in  a  mor(?  southei-nly  latitude,  where  it  was  met 
with,  as  was  attested  by  various  persons  worthy  of  credit, 
in  the  years  1H1.')-1()  and  17  ;  liy  ships  comin^f  from  tJie 
Kiisi  Indies  and  America;  by  others  jjoiiiii  to  Halifax 
and  Xevvfuimdhmd  ;  and  in  dilferetit  parts  of"  the  Atlantic, 
us  far  down  as  the  lOtli  i)ar<illel  of  latitude.     8(jme  of 

B 


I 


J 1 


I.NTUOULXTIU.V. 


\\\*-Mi  (Irfucliod  Tiijissrs  woi'i-  ul"  iiti  iiiiiisiial  iiiiiyiiilude 
niirl  cxtt'iit,  miioiiiitirii;  in  soiiii'  iiistn net's  to  wliolf  ishiiuls 
of  ice,  ol"  sue  1 1  vast  dinitMisions  tluit  slii|)s  wim(*  iiiipcdt-d  Ity 
tliciii  tor  iiiiiiiy  diiys  in  their  voyiiL'»'s  ;  otlicrs  wi-rr  di-lMcli- 
«'d  icrlx'rtfs,  troni  ii  hniidrrd  to  ii  Innidrcd  and  thirty  Irt-t 
nhovo  thp  Nurfiico  of  tho  Aviit«'r,  iind  s('V»m'uI  niiirs  in  cii'- 
cnndt'it'iict'.  'I'he  Jlidifax  packet  i"e|)(irte(|  that  ^. he  had 
piisst-d  a  niutnitain  of  i<:(^  neaiiy  two  hini(h'e(|  feet  hiuh, 
and  at  least  two  miles  in  circninierence.  A  ship,  helonuini^ 
to  the  Old  (Ireenland  Missions,  was  tdeven  days  heset  on 
the  const  of  Lid)rador  in  Ijoes  of  ice  mixeil  with  iceherus, 
many  of  wliich  iiad  liu^e  rocks  upon  them,  j^ravel,  soil, 
tiiid  j)ieces  of  wood  :  in  short,  every  account  from  vari- 
ous parts  of  North  America  agreed  in  statini^  that  lar)j;er 
and  more  nnnuM'ons  fields  and  herj^s  (d'  ice  had  lieen 
seen  at  y;reater  distiinces  from  their  usual  places,  in  the 
years  abov(^  mentioned,  than  had  at  any  time  hefore  heeii 
witnessed  hy  tint  oldt-st  naviyiitors.  'The  fact,  thei'etore, 
miL,dit  he  considered  as  too  well  authenticateil  to  admit  of 
ti  donht. 

It  was  at  onco  ronchided  from  whence  tin?  j^reater 
])art  of  these  imnuMis((  (juantities  of  ice  were  derive(l. 
In  a  letttn*  from  Mi-.  Scorcshy  tju^  youn^(M',  an  intelli- 
gent laiviuator  of  th(5  (ireenland  seas,  to  .Sir  Joseph 
Hanks,  1mi  says,  "  I  ohstu'ved  on  my  lust  voyage  (If^lT) 
aliout  two  tliousand  s(|uart*  leagues  (eighteen  tlionsiuni 
s(juare  miles)  of  tho  surface  of  the  (Jreenlaud  seas,  in- 
cludod  la^twuiMi  the  paralkds  71  and  h'U',  perfectly  void 
of  ice,  all  of  which  had  disappeared  within  tlu^  last  two 
years."  And  he  farther  states,  that,  although,  on  former 
voyii^(^s,  he  had  very  rartdy  heiMi  able  to  janietrato  the 
ice,  l)etw«HMi  the  latitudes  of  70^  and  t^U^,  so  far  to  tho 
west  as  the  meridian  of  (Jroonwich,  on  liis  last  voyage 
he  twici^  reached  the  lonj^itude  of  iO^  west ;  tluit  in  tho 
parallel  of  74^  ho  approached  tho  coast  of  Old  (Jroen- 
iand ;  that  there  was  little  ico  near  the  land;  and  ho 
added,  ''that  there  could  he  no  doubt  that  ho  mii,dit 
luiv(;  reaclu'd  the  shore  had  he,  but  a  justiliable  motive 
for  navigating  an  unknown  sea  at  so  late  u  season  of  tho 
year."  This  account  was  fully  conHrnuul  by  intelligenco 
received  at  ('(tpeiihagen  irom  Iceland  in  thi^  year  Jr^l'!, 
that  tiie  ice  had  broken  lo(»so  from  the  opposite  (;oust  (*f 


li\TKul*l  CTUjN. 


15 


'iii- 
•pli 
sl7j 

ISiltlll 

,  iii- 
vuid 
t  wo 
iticr 
thn 
tho 

tiio 
't'li- 

ho 

tivo 
tho 
uca 


(Jift'iiliitnl,  and  lloatod  awny  to  tlio  soiitliwiinl.  jiricr  sm- 
niiiiKliriu  tlio  s)ior(>.s  ot'  iccltinil,  and  tillini;  all  tlio  bayfl 
and  n'(M-ks  of  that  island  ;  and  that  this  atlhrtini;  vi>itation 
\vas  repeated  in  I^IT — <;ircnnistanfes  liitherto  unknown 
to  the  oldest  inhaiiitant. 

.\lM)Ut  tho  saitu)  tiino,  tho  whalo  sliips  that  tVf'(|nented 
the  tisherv  in  J)avis's  Straits,  and  the  I  ludson's  l»ay  trad- 
ers, experienced  an  unnsnul  tnunljer  of  icel»er;;s  ami 
JariTo  lloes  of  ico  driftiiii,'  to  tin'  southward  down  tho 
straits  atid  alons^  thn  roast  of  Lahrador,  and  past  New- 
foundland ;  yot  as  to  a  rertaiti  extent  those  nuisses  of 
ice  w»!re  of  fre(|uent  occuirenco  in  these  (juartei's,  and 
occasioindly  met  with  in  tin;  Atlantic,  it  was  those  from 
the  eastward  tiiat  attracted  particular  notice. 

Whatever  tlu'  cause  niny  have  heen  for  the  disruption 
of  this  iniMU'iise  harrier  of  ice  from  the  eastern  c()ast  of 
(li'eeiiland,  whether  by  its  own  w«.'ii;lit  after  centuries 
of  accumulation,  or  tVom  the  partial  disi-up'.on  of  the 
coast  itstdf,  tiu!  fact  is  mupn-stionahle  ;  and  iln5  notorit!- 
ty  of  it  iiivon  in  tlio  several  journals  of  Kiirope,  and  moro 
especially  in  tiioso  of  England,  corroborated  by  various 
])rivate  communications,  was  anion;:;  tiie  circumstaiu-es 
which,  combined  with  others.  j;ave  rise  to  tlie  revival  (»f 
thos(5  voyages  of  discovery  for  attemptinj^  a  ))asMai;<f  roiuid 
the  northern  coast  of  America  to  the  I'acilic  Ocean,  and 
also  to  another  attempt  to  reacli  the  North  Pole,  by  j)ro- 
ceediui;  betweoJi  the  east  coast  of  (irei<idand,  now  freed 
from  ice,  and  the  west  coast  of  ►S|)itz!)erf^en,  jjenorally 
not  nnich  liampered  with  ice.  A  naval  otlicer,  the  nar- 
rator of  one  of  the  very  tinst  of  the  niocUsrn  expeditions, 
which  the  change  in  tlie  ico  of  tlie  nortliern  seas  mainly 
occasioned,  opens  his  account  of  it  as  follows  • 

"  It  most  opportiniclv  oicnrred,  in  tlie  ve;ir  IB17,  that  ac- 
counts of  a  cliaai:e  in  the  Polar  ice  particularly  I'uvonible  ti> 
the  inidertakiuir  were  l)r()ut.dit  to  llnt^'land  by  oiu*  whale  sliips; 
and  as  it  has  jzeiu'rally  bajipetu-d  in  this  couiitiy  that  sonio 
inilividaal,  more  saii^'uiiie  tlian  the  rest  of  the  coiiiimuiity, 
has,  by  his  sui)erior  knowledue,  ^'reater  exi'rtidiis,  or  more 
(•(iMstaiit  [terseveiaiici',  succcfMlcd  in  briiii/ini,'  a  project  to  bear, 
wliicli,  ill  less  vigdroiis  or  pertinacious  hands,  wdiild  have 
been  siift'ered  to  die  away,  this  t'a\(irablr  <-lianL'e  was  turned 
to  so  iiDud  an  aci-ount  by  an  intliicntial  ineriiber  of  the  l'<"V- 
'■nimcnt,  and  whu.Sv?  uuiiio  is  inseparable  from  northern  dis- 


Hi 


INTRODUCTION. 


c'overy,  that,  in  the  lollowijij:;  year,  hi.s  MajoHty  Georpo  IV., 
then  I'riucc!  Ki'L'fJil,  was  pli-ant'd  to  ((jiiuiiaiKl  lliat  atteiiiptrt 
bhoiilil  be  mado  to  n-acli  the  J'acilic,  huth  hy  the  westei-a 
route  through  Bafliu's  Bay,  and  by  a  northern  ujurbe  acrosn 
the  J'ole."* 

It  would  ho  ridiculously  scjueaniisl)  to  allect  ignorauro 
to  wliom  tlio  couipJiiiHMit  in  tlio  nhovo  j)a.s.sajfo  is  meant 
to  iipply,  and  llii'.  more  so  as,  on  the  vvliole,  it  is  truu. 
J  am  fully  prepared  lo  admit  that  part  which  relates  to 
thk',  "  Hauf^uini^  individual"'  who  succc^eded  hy  "  exer- 
ticnis"  and  "  persmeraiiee"  in  hrinifiui;;  tin^  project  to 
bear — u  project  which,  like  most  oth«;rs  tlnit  are  lunv  and 
not  well  understood,  could  not,  and  thereloro  did  not, 
.<uil  to  l)i"ini;  witli  it  eensoj'ions  rt-marks,  and  ill-nati  red 
but  ij^norant  criticisms  I'rom  one  pnrty,  with  a  modicum 
ot"  prais'»  and  aj)pro!)ation  from  another — as  usual,  lauda- 
tiir  ah  Itl^,  ci/lpdlur  iih  ilUs.  l*reviously,  however,  to 
oi'iiiinatinjf  any  projjosals  lor  the  voyajii^s  herein  tre.ited 
ol",  no  pains  wert^  spared  in  collectini^  whatever  inl'orma- 
tion  could  i)e  gatliert^d  irom  the  expi'ditions  ot"  our  old 
travelei's,  the  traders  in  the  service  ol' the  Hudson's  IJay 
uiid  the  rSorthwest  ("omjjanies,  I'l-om  scattered  ri'inarks 
ol"  whale  tisln  rs  and  casual  travelers,  such  as  liearno 
and  .Ma(;k(Uizie  :  arid  the  iid"u'"mation  thus  jiained  was 
Hul)mitted  to  the  puhlic  at  the  time  the  fust  ot"  the  recent 
expedilioiis  was  in  proifi'ess.f 

i  did  not,  liowever,  stand  alone,  haviny;  Imd  tb(>  ^ood 
fortune  to  meet  with  every  encoura^enu-nt  from  an  ahio 
coadjutor,  one  ever  I'eady  to  hold  out  a  helpiuti  hand 
wluui  the  promotion  oi'  scienc*^  and  jfeneriil  knowledgo 
was  the  object.  This  patron  was  .Sir  Joseph  JJaid^s. 
15ei'ore.  thereibro,  1  submitted  any  proposal  to  Ijord 
31elville,  which  I  knew  would  bo  referred  to  tlu!  Presi- 
dent and  Council  of  tiie  Jloyal  Society,  as  a'ivoyajfes  ot* 
discovery  connecttul  with  science  were,  I  tliouiiht  it 
riiiht  to  take  tln^  |)r(^sident's  opinion  as  to  tin;  effei't  of 
the  changes  rt>|)orte(l  to  have  occurred  in  the  northern 
reiiions,  in  whicli  I  was  awarc>  he  tctok  a  particular  inter- 
est, havinjj;  himself,  in  early  life,  visited  Iceland  and 
climbed  to  the  top  of  Mount  Hechi ;  uud  as  he  knew 

■^    Bi'(>c!i«\v's  Voynt'o  toward  tho  North  I'olf. 

t  CLu'uuuioijiciil  History  ol'  VujUg'ea  uilo  tho  Arctic  liegiuu3,  iVc. 


INTUODUCTIOX. 


17 


lorpo  IV., 
.  ulleiMiitrt 

3     VVUrtUTU 

guonuH-o 
is  nieaiil 
it  is  tiiio. 
rt-lates  to 
y  "  oxcr- 
|)r()j«H;t  t(i 

[)  Ill'W  U«»<1 

J  (lid  not, 
ill-iiiiUVed 
,  iiiodit  Hill 
liil,  iauda- 
>\vt'v»  r,  lo 
•in  Irotittul 
r  iiil'i)naii- 
ot'  our  old 
dsou's  Uiiy 
'd  riMiiiiiks 
us   H«'iiriio 
itiiiu'd  wiis 
th«-'  recent 

llic  trood 
till  an  al)to 
lll)iiiii   luind 
ll^llo\vlo(lJ;t^ 
pli  IJanUs. 
Ill  to    Lord 
tho  Prt'si- 
voya^es  of 
thouiilit  it 
|o  ollect  ol' 
It"!  iiortlioni 
ular  intcr- 
ct'land   and 
Is  \w  know 

liuus,  A;c. 


tliat  i  liad  also,  in  rarly  lif«\  i)aid  a  visit  to  tlio  Spit/.lu'r- 
i;('ii  sciLS.  as  lii^di  as  llakluyt's  llcnidiand,  near  tli»^  HOtli 
piirallt'l,  I  was  sure  of  encauinji;  liis  atttMition  on  the  snl)- 
jcct,  and  was  not  (lisapj)oint<'d,  \\f  cntirriy  a|)prov«Ml 
ot'tlic  ronrwal  ot"att«Mnpts  to  acconi])lisli  a  }irand  object 
wliicli  tor  tliroo  centuries  had,  at  dilterent  times,  occu- 
pied the  attention  of  our  soven'iuns,  pliiiosopliers,  men 
of  '^^(•ieiice,  and  merdiatits  ;  and  ho  |)roiiiis(>d  to  look  over 
and  jj;ive  ine  any  int'ormation  that  his  own  correspondcnco 
niij^lit  furnisli  :  "  1  may  he  able,"  he  said,  "  to  niimo 
those  from  whom  you  may  receive,  and  btxtks  from 
which  you  may  derive  thc^  information  you  are  in  <piest 
of.  l)Mt  lor  scieiKM^  I  must  reler-  you  to  my  council."* 

.\c<'ordinj,dy,  I  submitted  a  plan  to  Ijoi-(I  Melville,  then 
|''irst  Jjord  of  tlnj  Admiralty,  a  nobleman  at  all  times 
ready  to  attend  to  ny  suyyestion  that  had  for  its  object 
iln«  improvement  of  science  or  the  interests  of  navicjation 
anil  commerce.  Jt  was  sent,  as  usual,  to  tln^  President 
and  Council  of  tlie  I\(»yal  Society,  returned  with  their 
approval,  and  submitted  to  Lord  Liverpool,  then  J*rim«i 
Minister,  for  liis  sanction:  and  this  b«'in^  obtained,  or- 
d.ers  wore  forthwith  issued  by  tlie  iJoard  of  Admiralty 
for  the  preparation  of  four  ships  to  be  appropriatcul  to 
the  service  in  question — two  tor  the  search  of  a  passage 
tVoiii  the  Atlantic  to  the  Pacific,  and  two  to  j)rocoed  from 
\\w  sea  of  Spitzberijen  toward  tlie  N()rth  Pole. 

It  may  be  observed,  that  nont^  of  our  old  navigators 
were  able  to  penetrato  any  |)art  of  tht;  Polar  Sea:  all 
tiieir  discoveries  were  contined  to  the  stniits.  and  inlets, 
and  islands  on  the  eastern  coast  of  America,  and  tho 
laii^e  straits  of  Davis  and  liallhi  on  the  western  coast  of 
(ireenland.  Had  J^allin  entered  Lancaster  Souiui  from 
liis  own  strait,  he  would  at  once  have  discovered  the  sea 
wliich  communicates  with  the  Pacific,  and  th«Mi  there  is 
no  saying  what  this  able  old  navigator  and  his  contem- 
poraries might  not  liave  elfected.  IndtHMl,  at  tho  com- 
niencomentof  tlio  late  Arctic  voyages,  nothing  was  known 

■  (in^nt  IJritnin  has  seltlom  nrirlrcti'rl  to  pny  n  frihiitt'  to  tlm  nirrnory 
nt"  iiii'ii  wild  hiivo  ilistingnii^htMl  tlicinsclvcs  l)y  tlnir  z<'!il  tor  the  promo- 
tion of  .sciciict;  niul  till'  (irtH  ;  to  which  fvA  ."^ir  Joseph  Hanks  liiis  l.-irijfly 
fontrihutrd,  piTSDiiiilly  Hntl  hy  his  piir.«t> ;  yet  not  rvia  \\  hioLTiiijliical 
i-ki'trh  tliiit  I  know  of  hiiH  htyii  putiUshi-d.  I.ci  Sir  lldwitrd  Kniitchbull 
tmd  tho  person  to  whom  hi-  gave  tho  mulcrialri  look  io  this. 


18 


I.VTKODULTIUN. 


of  liny  iMilnuico  iitlo  tlio  Polnr  Scu  from  this  side  of 
Amoricii.  All  tliiit  ^\as  known  on  tlio  lir.st  uftcinpt, 
^\  liicli  liiir<il\  (jcsj'ivos  llio  naino,  wus.  lliiif  ii  Polar  Sou 
did  exist,  that  tlio  shi|)s  (»t"  Cajitain  ("ook  had  looked  al 
it  thi'onyli  l>ohiini;'s  Strait,  and  that  llcarno  and  .Mao 
kon/ir,  two  North  Aniei'ican  travrlors,  had  arrived  at, 
llie  northeiii  shore  of  North  America,  at  ditrerenf  |)(»ints 
and  at  dili'eien;  times,  and  rei)orted,  sonunvhat  donbting, 
that  they  liad  se«Mi  the  sea. 

Krom  these  circumstanci's,  and,  more  pailiculai'iy, 
from  the  undoidded  anthorities  I  luid  sncceeded  in  col- 
lectinii,  it  was  (|nile  clear  that  a  current  was  constantly 
I'onnd  setting  <lown  Davis's  Strait,  and  thi' Strait  of  Und- 
son's  Hay,  and  also  aknig  tln^  shore  of  Spit/.hergen,  all 
to  the  soutliward  ;  no  donbt,  theixd'oro,  could  renniin  on 
my  mind,  tliat  there  must  he  a  wattM' conuMunication  he- 
twe»Mi  tiio  st>i!s  ((f  the  i'acil.c  and  the  northei'n  Atlantic; 
that  the  water  bu|)|)lied  through  the  Stiait  of  Hehring  (a 
Avell-established  fact)  into  tli(>  Polar  Sea  was  dischai'ged, 
J»y  sv'tne  ((pening  oi*  other  yet  to  he  discovered,  into  tlui 
Atlantic.  The  "  Kdinhurgli  Kciview."  however,  tnivned 
into  ridicuk^  the  idea  of  a  Polar  Hasin  :  and  otluM's  en- 
deavored to  show  t!iat,  if  these  currents  existed,  they 
must  he  very  temporary  or  occasional,  as  they  would 
othorwis(>  drain  tiiis  Polar  IJasin  of  its  water. 

It  may  be  wortli  the  whiltN  now  that  tlie  shoics  of 
lliis  Polar  Sea  liave  been  visited  and  surveyed,  one  part 
of  tliem  by  our  own  navigator's,  and  tlio  Asiatic  })art  by 
the  indel"atigai)le  Haron  Wrangel  and  others,  to  show 
to  these  would-be-wise  gentlemen  wiiat  that  sea  really 
is — what  are  its  inpourings,  its  outpourings,  and  its  di- 
mensions. In  thi^  lirst  place,  it  is  an  imnu'iise  basin  of 
water,  included  by  th(>  shores  of  Asia,  of  Kurope,  and  of 
Aim^vica.  Of  Asia,  from  Nova  Zembla,  in  .'}U°  K,  long"., 
to  Kast  Cape  in  iUdiring's  Strait,  in  170"  A\''.  long". ; 
tliat  is.  111)  extent  of  coast.  In  Europe,  from  Nova 
Zembla,  in  .')0  ^  K..  to  JJaditi's  l>ay,  about  7U^  W.,  an 
extent  of  coast  etpial  to  I'JO '  ;  and  in  America,  from  the 
last  point,  70^  W.,  to  Cape  Prince  of  Wales,  Ifib'^  W., 
in  Behriiig's  Strait,  an  extent  of  coast  equal  to  100°. 
'^riiese,  including  the  o])ening  of  IJehring's  Strait  ajid 
that  between  (Jroenlaiid  and  t^pitzbergen,  comprise  tho 


I.V'I'KOIJLH   I'loN. 


10 


in   HUU'    of 

t  attempt, 
INiIiir  Scii 
looked  lit 
and  Miio 
iirrived  at 
rent  points 
;  doubting, 

irticiiliirly, 
led  ill  eol- 
coiisiiiiitly 
lit  of  llnd- 
heriieii,  all 
reintiiii  on 
liratioii  lie- 
w  Atlantic  ; 
nelirini;  (a 
liscliar^ed, 
mI,  into  tlio 
vov,  turned 
otlicM's  en- 
listed, tliey 
ley  would 

slioi'es  of 
one  j)art 

ic  part  l<y 
to  show 

sea  really 
and  its  di- 
lasiii  of 

pe,  and  of 
K.  long"., 
\V.  long". ; 
0111  Nova 
^  W.,  an 
from  the 

l(i8^  W., 
to    100^. 

Strait  and 

uprisu  tlio 


whole  circle  of  .'i(!0",  an  extent  of  coast  which  no  other 
detached  sea  in  tlu!  worlil  can  hoast  ol.  It  is  a  circle  of 
two  thousand  tour  hiindied  geographical  miles  in  diaiii- 
eier.  and  seven  thousand  twi  hundred  miles  in  circuin- 
fereiic(\  considering  the  latitude  of  711"  to  he  the  aver- 
a  :e  iMiiindarv  line,  which  it  in-arly  is,  by  taking  the  in- 
lets ot"  the  land  to  balance  the  outlets  of  the  sea.  And, 
ill  order  to  satisfy  tlu^  malcontents  regarding  the  curientH 
exhausting  its  waters,  it  may.  perhaps,  bo  sullicient  to 
state  what  are  its  supplies.  They  consist  of  the  con- 
stant iiitlux  of  a  stre  iiii  through  I'xdiring's  Strait,  of  live 
or  six  i^ieal  rivers  troni  Asia  -the  (  )bi,  the  .ieiiisci,  the 
Lena,  the  Indigiika.  and  the  Kolima.  iMiropo  supplies 
the  waters  of  the  Dwina,  with  numerous  streams  lidiii 
the  coasts  of  .No'"way  and  Lapland,  and  tli(^  eastern  coasts 
ot"  ( ireeiiland,  and  western  citasi  of  Ijallin's  iJay  ;  and 
America,  pours  in  several  copious  streams  from  the 
Kocky  .Mountains,  with  the  Macken/.ie,  the  ilearne.  or 
the  ('opper  Aline,  the  Uack,  and  several  other  minor 
stHNims.  To  talk,  tlic^reioro,  of  its  being  exhausted  by 
the  soiithernly  currents  appears  to  be  alisolute  iionsenso. 

The  main  object  inttMided  to  be  attained  by  tlu?  tirst 
of  the  recent  expeditions  was  to  disc(»ver  an  entry  from 
th(^  eastern  side  of  America  into  the  I'olar  Sea.  lint  it 
was  not  done  by  the  tirst,  as  it  ought  to  have  been  done; 
and,  as  the  second  most  rc^adily  accomplished  it,  and, 
moreover,  iiavigateil  one  half  of  tliat  sea  to  tin?  westward, 
why,  then,  it  may  be  asked,  have  future  attempts  failed 
to  navigate  \\ui  oth(>r  lialf .'  The  answer  is  easy  ene:;^rli — . 
they  failed  by  des(M"ting  thi^  direct  path,  tiiat  gave  them 
half  the  passage  toward  J}»diring's  Strait,  and  tried  vii- 
rioiis  new  ways  in  search  of  openings  intotln^  l*olarSea, 
and  found  but  one  other  on  the  whole  eastern  coast  of 
America,  and  that  one  not  navigable.  Tim  old  routt;  of 
Parry  through  Lancaster  Sound  and  Barrow's  Strait, 
as  far  as  to  the  last  land  on  its  southern  shore,  and  tlnuice, 
ill  a  direct  line,  to  IJehring's  Strait,  is  tlio  routo  ordered 
to  be  pursued  by  Franklin. 

Hut  it  may  also  be  asked,  as  it  lias  been  asked  by  some 
of  that  class  known  by  the  name  of  Utilitarians,  rui  hmio 
are  those  northern  voyages  undtMtaken  ?  If  tliey  w«Me 
nieroly  to  bo  prosecuted  for  tlio  sake  of  inakiiiLj,  a  passago 


20 


IN'TIIODUCTIOX. 


from  Engliuid  to  C'liiiia,  and  for  no  otlier  purpose,  their 
utility  Jiiiylit  fjiirly  ha  (jiu'stioned.  JJut  when  the  actjui- 
sitioii  ot  knowlediio  is  the  ^roiiiidwork  of  all  tin;  iustnio 
tioiiH  uiidtM"  wliich  tlioy  lire  soiit  forth:  when  iho  coiii- 
maiidiiiii  offu'er  is  dinicfed  to  cause  constant  obsei'vatioiis 
to  1)0  niado  ior  the  adviMiceiiient  ot"  every  branch  ot"  sci- 
(!nce — astronomy,  navijj;ation,  hydrography,  meteoi-(jlo- 
'fiy,  including  electricity  and  mafinetism,  and  to  make  col- 
lections of  subjects  in  natural  history — in  short,  to  lose 
no  opportunity  of  ac(|uiriny  new  and  important  informa- 
tion and  discovery  ;  and  when  it  is  considered  that  these 
voyajr(^s  give  employment  to  olficfM's  and  men  in  time 
uf  pejice,  and  product;  officers  and  men  not  to  be  sur- 
j:;issed,  |)erhaps  not  equalled,  in  any  other  branch  of  iho 
tcrvice,  the  question  nd  buno  is  (easily  answered  in  the 
^■.  ords  of  the  minister  of  Queen  Elizabeth,  "  Knowledc;o 
IS  Power,"  tluj  truth  of  wliich  was  practically  demon- 
strated to  the  grumblers  cif  that  day  by  the  fdlowing  re- 
sults. 

Sir  Humphrey  Gilbert,  in  consequence  of  his  grant  of 
the  Island  of  Newfoundland,  made  a  voyage;  thither,  on 
his  return  from  which  he  nobly  perished  ;  but  his  knowl- 
edge did  not  perish  with  him:  it  laid  tin?  foundation  of 
that  valuat)le  cod-fishery  which  still  exists.  Davis,  by 
the  discovery  of  the  strait  tiifit  bears  his  nanus  opivied 
the  way  to  tin;  whah;-tisheiy,  which  still  continues  to 
f^-,x  nsh  ;  and  Frobisher  pointed  oui  the  strait  which  con- 
ducted Hudson  to  the  bay  that  bears  his  name,  and  which 
gave  rise  to  the  establishment  of  a  company  of  mer- 
chants, whose  concerns  are  of  such  an  extensive  nature 
as  to  bo  earned  on  across  the  whole  continent  of  Amer- 
ica, and  to  the  very  shores  of  the  Polar  Sea ;  and  al- 
ready, in  our  time,  the  opening  of  Lancaster  Sound  by 
Parry  has  extended  vhe  whale-fishery  into  that  sound. 

But  the  knowledge  that  has  resulted  from  these  later 
voyages  is  not  loss  valuable,  less  durable,  or  more  evan- 
escent, nor  can  it  be  too  highly  appreciated.  Let  any 
one  cast  an  eye  only  over  the  best  charts  of  the  north- 
ern regions,  previous  to  the  recent  Arctic  expeditions, 
und  compare  them  wiiii  what  they  now  are.  Let  him 
inquire  what  was  then  known  or  described  of  that  Po- 
lar sea,  or  indeed  of  tho  whole  northern  shore  of  the 


INTRODUCTIOIV. 


21 


)sp,  their 
K*  a('(jui- 
>  iii.struo 
tlie  com- 
(irvatioiis 
:li  of  sci- 
otcorolo- 
iiako  col- 
t,  to  lose 
iiitoniiii- 
;iiit  tlie.so 
I  in  time 
I)  be  sur- 
ch  of  tlio 
ed  in  tlio 
lowlediio 
y^  (li'inoii- 
jwing  ro- 

s  jjrunt  of 
iiithcr,  oil 
lis  knowl- 
liitioii  of 
Davis,  by 
',  opened 
tiiivies  to 
liicli  ron- 
id  wliich 
of  nier- 
o  nature 
f  Anier- 
und  al- 
ound  by 
sound. 
lese  later 
re  evan- 
Let  any 
e  north- 
ditions, 
et  hiui 
hut  Po- 
of the 


Americiiii  confinont,  and  the  answer  will  be,  a  blank; 
wliich,  howj'ver,  \w  will  now  tiiid  tilled  up.  lift  liim 
ask  what  was  the  value  or  amount  of  the  peogiaphiral 
and  physical  knowlcnlfio  then  possessed  of  the  rejiions  of 
the  filobe  within  the  Arctic  circle,  and  the  reply  would 
be,  little  or  nothina;;  wlu-reas  the  objects  of  Nature 
which  the  late  voyages  have  furnished  to  the  JJritish 
iMuseuin  and  other  depositories  are  numerous  and  nov- 
el. Let  any  one  turn  over  that  extraordinary  collection 
of  eniiraviiiffs  and  descriptions  of  subjects  in  every  de- 
])artment  of  natural  history,  iilling  up  no  less  than  four 
large  quarto  volumes,  whose  general  titles  are  as  under: 

1.  The  Fdinui  Borcali-Aincricana. — Quadrupeds; 

2.  Thf  Fduna  lioretili-Amcricand. — liinls; 

3.  The  Fftuna  lioreali-Anwricdna. — Fishes; 

4.  The  Fauna  Boreali- Americana. — Insects; 

containing  from  three  to  five  hundred  jiages  each,  and 
all  brought  forw^ard  by,  and  under  the  superintendenco 
of,  J)r.  Kichardson,  the  fellow -traveler  of  Sir  John 
Franklin,  and  the  man  to  whose  energy,  courage,  and 
skill  Sir  John  has  declared  that  he  and  the  whole  ])arty 
owe  their  safety  and  their  lives.  Let  these  accession.^ 
to  general  knowledge  have  only  their  due  weight,  unci 
they  will  then  bo  duly  appreciated. 

'^riie  value  of  the  scijuitific  observations  and  discover- 
ies niadc^  in  these  Arctic  voyages,  independent  of  all  nu- 
tiotial  and  selfish  considerations,  is  duly  appreciated  on 
the  continent  of  Europe  and  in  Am(>rica.  It  is,  perhaps, 
not  generally  known  that  the  late  voyage  toward  tho 
South  Pole,  under  the  command  of  Captain  (now  Sir 
James)  Ross,  had  no  other  object  but  the  advRn<'e- 
meiit  of  science  and  general  information  regarding  the 
Antarctic  regions  of  tlie  globe  ;  and  that  among  the  first 
.subjects  to  be  attended  to  was  that  of  making  a  series  of 
observations  on  terrestrial  magnetism,  a  subject  which 
has  of  late  years  assumed  so  important  a  character,  by 
its  inlluence  on  the  globe,  that  tlie  government  of  Great 
Britain,  ever  ready  to  take  the  lead  in  matters  connected 
with  science,  has  been  induced  to  establisli  magnetic  ob- 
servatories in  several  of  its  colonies,  distant  from  each 
orher ;  and,  by  influence  and  example,  has  prevailed  on 
other  powers  to  do  tlie  same,  the  object  being  to  conduct 


'}»> 


IXTUODUCTION. 


siiTinltiMK'Dns  (thscrviilioiis.  nl  i^iviMi  stiiU'd  tiiii('><,  in  nil  (if 
tlifiti.  Tliosc  ot  (Irt'iit  I'nlaiii  !ii"t«  sent  to  lii»'iit«'ii!iiil- 
cnloiit'l  Siil)liu'.  who  liiis  UiMilly  nmlcrliiUcii  to  rc<lii(M^ 
tliciM  syst  t' 11111  ticiilly.  *  W'lini  KninUliii's  cxprditioii  w  iis 
(li'citlril  on,  ('olonol  Sal)iii(<  wiis  jisUimI  wlirthri-  iiiiiiiiiot- 
ic  ol)s«'iviitioiis  ma<lo  on  tlio  Polar  Sou,  and  rt'iilsttMcd 
in  tilt'  saiiio  niantu'r  as  in  tlui  rolonial  oliscrvatorics,  would 
not  he  ol'  >;orvico  .'  Mis  rc|)ly  was,  "•  That  ho  has  no  hos- 
itation  in  sayinu  that  tlio  iitt«Mii|)t  to  inaUc  tho  iiorthwost, 
jiassaiio  would  rondor  tho  most  important  service  that, 
now  remains  to  he  perlonned  toward  the  conipletion  of 
the  niaanelic  snrv(\v  ol" the  ylohe."  I  shall  only  add  her«> 
that  tht^  President  and  ( 'ouncil  of  the  Ivoyal  Society, 
Sir  Kdward  I'arry.  and  Captain  Heanl'ort  siroiiiily  ap- 
])rov»<  of  the!  (»\istiiiu.  and  perhaps  the  last,  attem|)t  t(» 
maUe  the  passaiic  fhroiiiih  tho  Polar  Sea  into  the  Pa- 
eitie.  IJiil  what  says  Sir  John  Ih'isclud,  when  speak- 
iiiij  of  the  atmospheric  pressun?  in  cold  climates  .'  '*  'I'his, 
with  the  niai:iu>li("  survey  ottlu^  Arctic  seas,  and  tin*  not, 
iniproliahle  solution  ot"  the  jxreat  f;eoi;raphical  prohh'iii 
w  Inch  t'oniis  the  chief  ohject  of  the  expedition,  will  fur- 
nish a  sufficiiMit  answer  to  those,  if  any  tli<'r(»  ho,  who  n^- 
puil  such  voyaut's  as  useless.  Jjot  us  hope  and  pray 
that  it  may  please  Providence  to  shield  him  (Kranklin) 
and  his  l»rav(»  companions  from  tho  many  danuers  of  their 
enterprise,  and  restore  them  in  healtii  and  honor  to 
their  country."' 

To  those  who  are  disposed  to  donht  tho  expediency, 
"if  any  ther»»  be."  of  tho  jjresent  voyage  under  Sir  John 
l-'ranUlin.  I  shall  stale  onc!  additional  motive  for  Imviiii; 
adopted  it.  which  is  this:  that  t;)  have  ahundoutMl  any 
farther  attempt  to  fulfill  an  object  which  has  iievi'r  ceased 
to  occupy  the  uttontion  of  tho  liritish  govornment  since 
the  days  of  our  Kli/.abeth,  and  more  especially,  at  this 
particular  time,  to  have  let"t  it  to  be  completed  by  a  for- 
t'iiiii  navy,  at'ter  tho  doors  of  tho  two  extremities  of  tho 
passage  had  been  thrown  open  by  tho  ships  of  our  own, 
would  have  been  little  short  of  an  act  of  national  suicide* ; 
or,  to  say  tin*  least  of  it.  an  ci^reiiiiuis  \nvvo  of  national 
folly.     In  personal  courage  the  British  navy  has  long  held 

*  'l"hc  (iliHt'vviitidiis  iii!i(t('  nt  Tornnto  liiwo  already  l)orn  n^hiccil  unj 
piintiil  \\i\h  im  HiliiiiiJ.uK  ami  wrllwrittcn  pri'l'iiCL'  by  the  (.'oloiu'l. 


IVTUODI'CTIOX. 


O.T 


i,  in  nil  of 

Mll»'ll!lllt- 

I)  rrdiict* 
lition  WHS 
•  miiyiH't- 
c^istcrcd 

I'S.   Wdlllll 

IS  Il(»  lics- 
Kirtliwcst 
[•vicr  I  hilt, 
)l('ti»tii  ot 
11(1(1  lien) 
Society. 
Dii^ly  iip- 
tt('iii|)t  t(» 
>  tlic  I'll- 
I'li  spciik- 
f  -Tliis, 


1(1  the  not 

I  proliltMii 

,  will  tiir- 

»,  wilt)  rc- 

HM(1  pray 

''raiiUliii) 

s  ot"  thoir 

honor  to 

'(liciicy. 
Sir  John 
tinviiii; 
lied  any 
r  coasod 
■nt  sinco 
,  at  tliis 
)y  a  tor- 
's ot"  iho 
iiir  own, 
suicide  ; 
national 
oni^  held 

■ilnci'il  and 

loiU'l. 


n  iiroiid  pre  (Mninertce  in  time  of  war,  and  nnnihers  of 
lier  iillicers  have  no  less  distiiiynished  themselves,  in 
tniies  of"  peace,  tor  moral  courage  and  mental  t"i»rtitnde. 
It  would,  thei-eti>re,  have  lieen  an  nnpardonaltle  omission 
f  I  have  snlleriMl  any  paltry  tlnancial  considerations  t<» 
li;i\e  iiilerl'ere(l  with  the  employment  ot"  a  conple  ot" 
Miiall  harks  tor  the  attainment  ot'  an  ohjecM  of  snch  im- 
portance. 

Let  those,  then,  who  may  he  disposed  to  (|U»rrel  with 
the  existini;  expeilitioii  on  tln^  score  of  expense,  he  as- 
sm'(<il  that,  in  putting;  it  tortli,  it  was  not  overlooked  that, 
at  the  moment,  then'  wer«i  two  foreign  tieets  in  the  Pa- 
«ilic,  heloniiinji  to  the  only  two  inival  powers  likely  to 
ell^a^e  in  the  enterpi'is(^  nnder  consideration,  and  to  ei- 
ther (tt"  whom  it  W(Hild  all'ord  a  moral  ti-inm])li  to  ar- 
compli.sh  what  w(>  had  hoij;nn  hut  shrnnk  from  complot- 
iiii;.  This  is  no  chimera.  M^lnt  shortest  passant?  foi* 
any  of  the  iKMnewai-d-honnd  ships  of  these  two  powers 
now  in  tli»'  I'acilic  is  thron^h  tim  Polar  Scmi. 

I'ranklin  is  now  on  his  v()yat!;e,  and  wliothor  lio  snc- 
<'eeds  in  nntkinu  ijood  the  pHssajji;e  or  not,  nothing,  I  inn 
most  oei'tain,  will  l)e  wantiiii;  on  his  part,  or  on  that  of 
his  gallant  oonn'ades,  to  accom|)lisli  all  that  human  means 
and  human  intellect  can  connmmd.  In  the  sentiments 
with  which  this  hrave,  veteran  seannm  closes  the  luu'ra- 
live  ot"  his  second  Polar  voyai;*^  1  most  cordially  concur, 
;is  I  am  inclined  to  think  most  of  those  who  read  it  will 
likewise^  do  : 

••  Arctic  (iiscovciy  has  hcca  fostered  |)rii)cipally  hy  Hreat 
Uiit.iiii;  iiiiti  it  is  :i  siilijcct  of  just  pride  that  it  has  heen  pros- 
ecuted hv  her  from  motives  as  disinterested  as  tliey  are  en- 
hL'htened  ;  not  from  any  prospect  of  inunediate  Iteiielif  to 
lierselt,  hilt  from  a  steady  view  to  tlie  ac(|(iirenieiit  of  iisehil 
Iviiowlcdi,'!'.  and  the  extension  ot"  tlu?  hounds  of  science. 
I'.acli  succeeding'  attenipt  has  added  a  stej)  toward  the  com- 
pletinn  of  niu'tiu.'ni  i,'eo^'raphy  ;  and  tiie  c<aitril>iitions  to  nat- 
ural histoi-\-  and  science  have  excited  a  i.'eneral  interest 
thr()Ui:lioii1  the  civili/.i'd  world.  It  is,  moreover,  plea.-itii]^  tu 
I'cilcct  that  the  loss  ol  life  wiiich  has  ociurred  in  tlie  prose- 
cution of  thes(>  discM)veries  does  not  excee<i  the  averai:e  num- 
her  <)t'  deaths  in  tlie  same  j)opii]ation  at  home  under  circum- 
stances the  most  l"avoraltle.  And  it  in  sincerely  to  l)e  hoped  tliat 
Oreat  Britiiin  will  not  relax  her  efforts  luitil  the  ipiestiou  of 


24 


INTRODUCTIOX. 


a  nfd'lhwest  passage  has  Im-cii  sati.sfiictorily  set  nt  rest,  or,  at 
least,  until  llicise  jxa-tions  of  tlie  iKirtlicni  .shdrrs  of  Aiiioricii 
which  are  yet  unknown  l)e  laid  down  in  our  maps  ,  and 
wiiich,  with  the  exrt'])tion  of  a  small  space  oji  the  Asiatic 
continent  eastward  of  Shela1skf)i  Noss,  anj  the  only  iiittTvaU 
wanting  to  complete  the  outline  of  Europe,  Asia,  and  Ameri- 
ca."—1'.  '6VJ. 

And  I  can  not  hut  feel  a  proud  gi'atification,  which  1 
atn  sure  is  sliared  hy  every  true  Enfflishniaii  of  wharev- 
or  rank  in  society,  in  the  perusal  ot"  the  foljowinfj  honest 
and  nuinly  sentiments  with  which  Captain  Sir  Edward 
Parry  closes  the  narrative  of  his  third  voyage  into  tho 
Arctic  seas : 

"  Happy  as  I  should  have  considered  myself  in  solving  this 
interesting  rpiestion,  instead  of  still  leaving  it  a  matter  of 
speculation  and  conjecture  ;  hajipy  shall  I  also  be  if  any  la- 
bors of  mine,  in  the  humble,  though  it  would  seem  necessary 
office  of  pioneer,  should  ultimately  contribute  to  tho  success 
of  some  more  fortunate  individual ;  but  inost  happy  should  I 
again  be  to  ])e  selected  as  that  individual.  May  it  still  fall 
to  England's  lot  to  accomplish  this  undertaking  ;  and  may  she 
ever  continue  to  take  the  lead  in  enterprises  intended  to  con- 
tribute to  tho  advancement  of  science,  and  to  j)romcjte,  with 
lier  own,  the  welfare  of  mankind  at  Large  !  Such  enterprises, 
BO  disinterested  as  well  as  useful  in  their  object,  do  honor  to 
the  countiy  which  undertakes  them,  even  when  they  fail : 
they  can  not  but  excite  the  admiration  and  re.spect  of  eveiy 
liberal  and  cultivated  mind ;  and  the  ]>age  of  future  history 
will  undoubtedly  record  them  as  eveiy  way  worthy  of  a 
|X)werful,  a  virtuous,  and  an  enlightened  nation." — V.  186. 


f 


COMMANDER   JOHN    ROSS 


ii5 


t  vent,  or,  fit 
of  Aiiicric'i 
iiiMjis,  and 
tlit>  Asiatic 
ily  iiitrrvals 
and  AiiK.'ri- 

n,  wliich  1 
A'  whfitev- 
in^'  honest 
r  Edward 
;o  into  tlio 

solving  this 

matter  of 

2  if  any  la- 

1  neccssaiy 

lliO    KUCCl'H.S 

^y  should  I 
It  still  fall 
id  may  sho 
led  to  con- 
note, with 
nterpritics, 
o  honor  to 
they  fail: 
t  of  evpiy 
re  histoiy 
)rthv  of  H 
-P/18G\ 


CIIAPTKR  II. 
C03IMAADER  JOHN   ROSS. 

1818. 


A   Voyncrc  of  Discovery  in  his  Majrsfy's  ships  Isahdla  and 
A/exonJerjor  the  purpose  of  exploring  Buffin's  Bay  and 
mqninng    into   the  probability   of  a   Northwest   Passage 
By  John  Ro.«h,  K.S.,  Commander. 

Tmk  t'vo  ships  appropriated  to  this  service  were  the 
Isal)ella,  [\H'„  tons,  and  tlio  Aiexanch'r,  -Jo-j  tons,  coin- 
jnanded,  officered,  and  manned  as  under : 


ISABKLLA. 

Joliii    I?(),s.a,    ("oiiiinanrlcr,    com 

niaiidinsr  the  Expedition. 
Willitim  JJobcrtsoii,  Lifnik'iiant. 
VVilliaiii  Tlioiii,  Pur.siT. 
.lohn  Ildwards,  .Suriicon. 
C  J.  Ui.'verlcy,  Aaaist.  Surceon. 
J.  M.  Skene,  Adm.  MidF}ii])aian. 
J.  C.  Ros.-,       do.  do. 

J.    Riishnun,    Midshipman    and 

Clerk. 
Bcnj.  Lewis,  Master  and  Green 

land  Pilot. 
ThoH.  Wilcox,  Mate  and  Green- 
limd  I'ilot. 

10  Officers. 


Ale.vaxder. 
W.   E.   Parry,   Lieutenant  com- 

mandin:.'. 
H.  V.  floppner.  Lieutenant. 
>> .  IL  lloojier,  Punier. 
Alexander  Fisher,  Assistant  Fur- 

ireon. 
Ph.  liiKson,  Adm.  Midshipman 
John  Nia.s,     do.  do. 

John  Allison,  (Jreenland  Mast«T. 
Joseph  Phillij)?,     do.         Mate 
_Jume8lIulse,  Clerk, 
i)  Officers. 

3  Carpenter,  Cook,  Suilmaker. 
3  Leading  Men. 
17  Abl(!  Seamen. 
5  Murines, 


37  Whole  complement 


3  Carpenter,  Sailmaker,  Cook. 

4  Leading;  Men. 
31  Able  Seamen. 

6  Marines. 

M  Whole  complement. 

Siipern  umeror/es. 
1  Captain  .Sabine,  Royal  Artillery. 
1  .'^erseant.  do. 

1  Esquimaux,  Saccheous,  or  Sack- 
house, 

57  Total  on  board. 

AVhen  looking  out  for  proper  persons  to  coinmand  tlie 
intended  expedition.  Sir  George  Hope,  wlio  had  been 
tlag-captain  to  Sir  James  Saumarez,  and  tiien  a  Lord  of 
the  Admiralty,  recommended  Commander  Ross  nn  an  ac- 
tive and  zealous  officer,  and  well  practised  in  the  ortlitm- 


J 


so 


arctk;  voyage.-^. 


ry  (liitM's  ol  tlic  st'iniian  s  prou'ssioti 


)r(>IV 


Til 


H'  onliimrv  tlii- 


tii'M  of  11  i^dod  sciitiiiiii  arc  well  known  ;  tlisit  Im-  cnii  liaml, 
rrt't",  >tt'('r,  Jiiid  liciivi!  tin-  Irud,  keep  tli<'  tlciid  it'ckuiiini;, 
and  tiikr  and  work  an  olisrrvation  lor  the  liilitudc;  liow 
iinicli  l(»'Vond  this  Sir  (Icor^*'  docs  not  appeal-  to  have 
plcdjffd  hiiiisclt'.  Indcc(l,  Hoss  states  sotncwliat  mod- 
estly, ill  Ills  introdnrtuin,  '*  My  nautical  ctlucation  has 
tan<;lit  nic  to  act,  and  not  to  (jucstion  ;  to  olicy  orders  as 
tar  as  possible,  not  to  iliscuss  probabilities,  or  cxainino 
philosophical  or  unphilosophical  s|)(>culations.  I  havo 
here  attempted  nothing  beyond  tiie  journal  ot"  a  seaman  ; 
it"  1  had  done  Mior>',  I  mij;ht  have  done  worse.*' 

Now  sr)methin};  beyond  tho  g(Mmi'''i  'diaractor  ^^iven 
by  Sir  (Jeoi'trc!  JJope  was  re(ju:rcd  tVo.ii  an  otTicer  who 
ventured  to  accept  the  conmiand  ot"  an  expedition  tor  tho 
pui'poses  of  enlar^inj;  tiie  wide  field  of  science  and  dis- 
covery, Jind  inor<'over  for  that  of  a  pecidiar  discovery  ; 
one  that  had  baftlpd  tho  skill  of  tlio  most  able  and  j)erse- 
verin<j;  naviirators  for  a  period  at  intervals  of  more  than 
tiiroo  hundred  years.  It  has  been  truly  observed,  tliat 
"  this  is  a  service  for  wliicli  all  oflicers,  liowever  bravo 
and  intellig(Mit  they  may  b<;,  are  not  equally  qualified  ;  it 
requires  a  peculiar  tact,  an  inquisitivts  and  persevering 
{)urauit  after  details  of  fact,  not  always  interestinji,  a 
contemp*^  of  <lancer,  and  an  enthusiasm  not  to  be  damped 
by  ordina.v  difficulties." 

In  fact,  Commander  Ross's  sei'vices,  previous  to  this 
voya<re,  were  only  adapted — as  Sir  (Jeorjife  Hope,  and, 
indeed,  he  himself  has  stated  them — to  (pialify  for  tho 
ordinaiy  duties  of  a  ^ood  seaman  ;  but  least  of  all,  as 
will  1)0  seen,  for  conductini;  a  voyage  of  discovery. 
"In  the  year  IT.'^ti,""  ho  says,  "1  entered  tho  I'oyal 
navy  ;  continu(?d  in  it  for  four  years  ;  was  in  the  mer- 
chant st!iTic(5  till  17i)4  ;  in  the  Kast  India  Company's 
service  till  17!)lt  ;  then  returned  to  tho  navy  ;  acting 
lieutenant  of  the  AVeascd,  of  the  Clyde,  cVc.  Went 
with  Lord  do  Saumarez  as  midshipman,  often  acting 
lientenant,  but  ranked  only  as  midshipman  ;  confirmed 
as  lieutenant  in  180") ;  sened  as  first  lieutenant  in  threo 
dill'erent  ships  ;  ])romoted  conunander  in  Idlti,  and 
commanded  threo   different  sijips."*     He   might  havo 

*  Ilis  cxnininntif))!  boforo  a  Sclpct  Cointnittoe  of  tho  Hoiiso  of  Coiu- 
niDiis  (III  tlu'  Arctir  ,So!i  JlNiifiiitidii, 


1 


COMM.WDF.U    .I.>n\    RHjiii. 


•J7 


niiniiry  dii- 
t'  cnii  liaml, 

tilde  ;  how 
■ar  to  ImvM 

iVhllt    IIKi.'i- 
ICMtioil     llllS 

V  (trdcrs  as 

»r  examine 

i   liavo 

u  st'uinuii ; 

•I 

icfor  j,Mv«'n 
nicer  n  lio 
ion  for  tlio 
•e  and  dis- 
discovery ; 
mid  perse- 
ttioro  than 
■rved,  tiiat 
'vor  bravo 
laliliod  ;  it 

Mvsevering 
resfiiiir,  a 

0  daniped 

lis  to  this 

>po,  and, 

y  tor  tiio 

of  all,  as 

iscovei'v. 

ho  i-oyal 

tlie  nier- 

iiipany's 

;  acting 

Went 

n  acting 

anfii-nu'd 

ill  tlireo 

1  ~,    and 

;ht  havo 

n  of  Com. 


added,  iu'vor  siM'ved  out  of  the  lialtic  ami  the  White 
Sni.  except  (Mice,  (ill  the  Mu>-»h  c(»H><t  nf  Scotland. 

Now  it  iiiav  Itroadly  he  staled  that  ( "oniniander  Koss, 
1)\  his  own  showini:.  did  not  at  all  answer  the  descrip- 
tion ot'  an  officer  fitted  lor  the  present  service  ;  and  his 
acts  and  his  lio(»k  prove  it.  I  lis  patron  who  recoin- 
ineiided  him  was  himself  a  thoi°ou4:h-l)red  seaman,  ati 
honest,  straiuhl-forward,  and  downriixht*  officer,  and 
siiiceioly  heliovod,  iio  douht,  tliat  the  person  Im  named 
was  an  active  and  zealous  officer '•  in  the  ordinary  duties 
of  his  profession;"  hut  ihert^  is  reason  to  Ixdieve  that,  in 
offeriiiii  him  tlio  command  of  a  \ Oyaju;  of  Discovery, 
he  had  not  {fiveii  dun  consideration  to  the  (jualilicalions 
that  such  a  command  recjuired. 

liiKiTKN ANT  I*,\u!iv,  wlio  commanded  tlio  Alexan- 
der, served  several  years  on  the  coast  of  North  America, 
where  h(^  was  distiiiiiiiislied  as  an  e\c<dl«'iit  navigator, 
theoretical  as  well  as  piactical.  lie  drew  up  a  little 
treatise,  especially  for  the;  usc!  of  tlie  young  officers  of 
tiie  fleet,  on  nautical  astronomy,  containing  directions 
for  finding  the  ])rincipal  fixed  stars  visihio  in  the  northern 
lieinisphere.  A  copy  of  this,  with  the  necessary  draw- 
ings, heing  sent  to  his  father,  I)r.  Parry,  of  liath,  Jjo 
had  it  printed.  AV^hile  employed  in  Anierica,  h'd  hy  a 
spirit  of  enterprise,  he  volunteered  for,  and  was  ajipoint- 
ed  to,  the  Congo  expedition  under  Captain  '^Pnckey,  hut 
foitunatedy  could  not  join  in  time.  Still,  however,  his 
attention  was  drawn  toward  African  disrovery,  and 
alioiit  the  close  of  1S17  he  wrote;  to  a  friend,  detailing 
his  views  on  tho  subject;  and  just  as  he  had  finished  his 
letter,  a  jiaragraph  in  a  newspaper,  alluding  to  the  at- 
tempt ahout  to  he  made  for  the  discovery  of  a  northwest 
passa<;e,  caught  his  eye,  and  h<»  added  a  postscript,  re- 
ferring to  this,  and  said  "  he  was  ready  for  hot  or  for 
cold" — Africa  or  the  Polar  regions.  His  friend  tf)ok  this 
letter  to  the  Secretary  of  the  Arlmiralty.f  which  Parry 
says  he  had  reason  to  bcdievo  was  tho  immefliato  cause 

'  Thr  wfjrd  reminds  one  of  avory  HiirnificMiit  sohrhjurt  (in  Admiral  Sir 
J:iiiu's  Haiimarcz,  l'laLr-(';i|>taiii  Sir  C'ii'ori:r  l!i'|i(-,  mid  \\w  ."^hipV  (.'aptarn 
l)imiare.-(| — tlic  three  dcsiiniati^d  as  iip-riuht,  lUiiniriirht.  ajid  iicrer-rieht. 

t  Mr.  I'lanvnv,  who  was  .-o  much  iili-a.^cd  hy  the  letter,  and  the  littlo 
tn  atise  which  accomjianied  it,  tliat  he  at  once  (iuliinitted  to  Lord  MelvLlIo 
lii-'  (t]/inlon,  tlidt  hv  was  jii^t  the  nnm  tor  such  an  ajipointmcnt, 


J 


',>S 


Ml»   lit 


|\  \»;r^. 


or  Ini  itp)<iMnt  inxnl  to  t)\i)l  <<\|«>ili|i<<ii.  iImm)  |m  )<|imi  .tif  litr 
ll\«'  liiiii'i   ol'U'rt . 

I   ii<iiti<nin\t   Pint\,  it    nun    >-ii)i'lv   Im*   miiti,  titil   nnl   ili 
nPptMnt     l)l«>     i>\pi>rllll  litlCJ     li     lllito'    \\l\\s     t  I'l  niMIMiMlili'il 

Inni  ;  Init  l\o  x\  im  Imimui'H  i'idmuh^Ix  iIi  •ii|t|«)iMliMl  m  (lii« 
iniini\ri  \\\  \\\\\>  \\  I  lit'  <  i>\  if  <•  m  <|nt''il  imi  w  w^  •  otnlni  li<il. 
in\il  til  ilii>  IiMmI  \\  MIX  lit  till  ilitiO'  rM\)'M  tm  rnlli'ii  iii)'  '^mli 
n  I'OiK  !<♦  I'li-i'M  iiliiMi-  on  iiiiimiM  Niiliit'i  |m  nt  '<i  iiMil  itic 
iiiijliiM  ,  <>t  i;i>ivtM  ii|i)tii  III  niliMiiiMt  mil.  innl,  nlnni'  nil.  ill 
lli«'  riinOi'sM  lunniu'i  ni  >\  Imli  i\i'i\  iillcin|i(.  m  .  iiHlin. 
M  mil  nl  ntti<iii)>t,  \>  II  <  >^liiiii>i|  nM'i  In  liilhll  llii<  nmtiiir 
1ii>im  i>(  j^ii\  (>i  niiit'iil  0\\  III)'  lit  lln'<.  imHimhI  nl  Immiijj 
nMi<.  on  lliiMi  iiMiini  lo  I  niliiiiil.  In  |<iiiilui  i<  iin>  i)>mmI|'i 
«iMlli\  nl  t!\i»  lil>iMiilil\  \>\lli  wliirli  llii<  i>\|ii'i|il  mil  liMil 
l>«'on  titloil  out.  thcii'  \\>\i  not  iin  odii  m  in  nllii'i  n|ii|» 
ihnt  iIkI  not  o\)>io><^  nim  titiiiilion  innl  ili>Mi|i|ioint  nioni 

I  ,n  I   »  I  N  v  N  I     l\  oiii  II  I  'lO    \\  iiM    in  I    111  In  o    mill   inlrlli 
t<^nt   olhi  (M  .  II  i'.ooil   oI>mm*oi    mill    -iniixm  ;   mul   l.iir 
ri-v\Nv     niMTNiu,     -on     ol     till'     mli'.l.     mi     i>m  cllonl 
iln»nii'<''-iii;in       t  hio   nl    llin    niiil'^lii|>iniMi.   .1     t"     Kn-.j.  n 
>  onnu   innn  nl    tho   inosi    sulnn   miil  willni!'.   ili'<|inmtiun. 
\\n-*    siihsi«nniMitl_\    Ix'iMl  nni|iln\nil  m  n\ni\      Victic   n\|io 
liitiiMi.  I'oininnnili'ii  iho  lonont    Vntmrlu'   \n\iii'n  ol  llnno 
V<Mn">*.  mill  1-^  nnw    t  ii|M!nn  Sn   .Iniiii".  ('IniUo  Ko^^i.  mm 
MOil,  mill    oninv  in.i:  llm    tinit    ol    1ii>j  miIiihIiIo    ninl    Iid'IiIv 
pvm-Hi'w  01  lli\    lulinis        Ills  nmrn  will  lini|nniill\    nrriii. 

t  '  \r  V  M  N   S  \  m  \  I  .  nl  llm  Kn\  nl    \  1 1  illnr\  .  \\  nil  Uno\\ ' 
Inv    lux    s,ii>nlilir    iii'i|nn  nnmnls.   ;niil    Ini     llm    Uiiow  ImliM 
nml    u-*!*   ol    niiUhoiniiliiiil  mul  ii^li  nnnniii  nl  in-iniinniils, 
hiMUi:  ilosirou>*  ol  tlio  o|>porliinil\   ol  |miIIiii!^  liis  >.l,ill  inin 
pnuMuiil  j'xpniinni-o.  \>:i>^  rni|nn.|nil  In    )nin   llio  nxpnili 
1i»>n  !is  ;i  \olnuloor.  mul.  liUo  tlin  lost.  Iiml  hnt  too  iniicli 
«'iui<<»  to  Im»  ili^mipoinlfil  mill  luu^rnnod.       \n  jicconnt  ol 
lus   sul^s»»tpnMit   mill  mi1\i:iI'Io  IjiI'ov^.  linwnxnr.  will  linro 
iitlov  tiuil  !i  |>l;h~i'  in  llu>  pic-^onl   nmriilnn. 

\\  woulii  li!n<>  biNMi  nioit>  Mcrnonliln.  111  flio  ont^ot  nl" 
tlu^  ]M<»s<Mit  vnlumo,  to  liiivo  |i;i'-'<o.l  ovnr  tins  liixt  \oy 
.Mi:i'  ol  ilisi-o\(M\  in  iho  \ri'1u'  i  <>;;ion^.  tlimi  to  Iw  oI>1i;mmI 
In  notirc  it  uuilor  :i  loolim;  ot  liisMUpnmlnuMit.  wliuh  llio 
ptM'u>«:»l  ot  1I  sn  nnu\  i<iiliihl\  mid  so  |irovoUini:Iv  nronlns  ; 
but  !i!»  It  I  iinstituli's  thn  lirsi  ImU  in  tlii>  rhmn  ol"  llio 
ii)!iM-ostiii^  jnililioatioiis   \\\  iiuosiion.  it   roujil   not   with 


I  I  •  M  \l  \  Milll      li  111  \      IIIIO-4, 


w 


|''«<|»(|i:m,.  Ctr 

I.    'Il'l     Mill     ill 

•'•  "imnrii,!,.,! 
'OMili-il   ,11    il,,, 

•■^  •  Ktnliii  Icil. 
•IIi'iImI)'    >^Mi  II 

"•    •'•  H'lilHic 
iili.Mc    nil     „| 

'*.  "I .   iMlliri. 

ill!'    IM'jIi  Ml'  • 
Mill     III      |i,i|||,, 

iin\    ii«'4||||m 
|"''lllinii  htiij 

•'"lIliM      .j|,,|, 
OlMl  MliMll 

'HI. I    iMlrlJi. 

IHIil     l,|||<. 

I'      ''Vri'llflil 
*        lill'J'J,    II 

'Il  •'ll<lvllll,,ll. 
'•'Ill'  <'\ll,l . 

>'.''  <»r iiiti'ii 

IvK^^J,    llltil 

"iiil    liirhlv 
ll\   ix  (  in, 
vrl!  Knuwp 
I. now  l(>i|,., 

•fl  IIIIICIIJM, 

•  "^  '<lull  mill 
H>  r\|)i<i|i 

!">••   Iiiiicli 
H'l'iMint  III' 

"ill    lllMO 

t>iiNi<(  ,,r 

liisl    \iiv  - 

l>l'   i)li|l;','-,| 

»vliicli  Iho 

i'ri>!iti>s  ; 

ill   <•!'  llii> 

not    will, 


|i|ii|ini't\  liiHi'  lii'i'ii  niiiil  It'll.  lliiHii'li  il  I  Mil  iiMiiiil  IiIiIm 
|i|i'il4nii'  III  I'll  PI  ii'ii'iiiti-  \\lii'li'  (lli'li-  M  i'\i'i\  ili>-i|li'  III 
piiiiii'  III     liilllli'l '4    III     liiil,    liiiw  i'<  i>i  .    |il,i<     ||||.    iiir    I'lii 

llli'     tinlll      Mill   il     III'      '   |inl.i'M    .     Mini     ll      ll|il\      III-     li|ii|ii>|      Mini 

i«iil\    ijiii'   jiiiliii"   III  'iliili-  fil   mill-    lliiil    MM   liliiiMi'  I  nil   1,1,,, 

.||l|\        MMIIiIi      III      llll\        ll|l|l\   nllllll      III      |lll>      h\|l       mI|||II       III)        ,|,,y 

iiiH  iliili'iiii'iil-j.  iiiM'lii'i'iii  I',  III  hill,  III  mini  iiiiitiiiii  ^^  liii  II 
niii\  nil  III  III  llii<  niMiiiiil  imii  i  iil  i  \  i '  ,  llml  nil  ii|i|it'in  In 
IllHi'    iii'i-n     imMiilM     111     rdii  1     \\  liiiliM  I'l     I  iHllil    lii>    III  <  1,111 

jiliJii'il  III  iiii'i'l  ||ii>  \ii.\\.i  III  )>■•(  i>i  iiiiii<iit ,  III  Ini  I,,,  ll,,, 
li'W    ii|i|iiii  I  imilii' 1    ('iM'ii   III    lliiiii   wiiiilil    iilliiw  \l    lliK 

.111111'     Imil',     ll     M     |IIH1|ll|l'     llllll      MIIIIIK     III      llll'     IIIIII'MIIIII    ,'      ItlllV 

liiiM'    liii|i|iriii<il    liimi  II    nil  II  mil  I  |iiiiiii    ul    w  Iml    \\  i|,|    n, 
i|mri'il   III    llii<   I  iMnmimili'i  ,   iiml   limn  llii'   inni  lly    nl    llii< 
'I'Mii''.  m    till'   niilnii'    innl   |ii'i  nlim    iIiiIiki    ul    s\  Im  h   In, 
llllll  iiiiw    iilniiiiii|\    Ini   tliK  hiMl   liniK  I II  i'ii|iiiiii-i|  ,    mimI 

II  iM  »<ii  liii   ilni'  III  linn  In  iiilimt,  liiillmi.  llml  llii<  ii|i|iniiil 
mini    wii'i    nnl    III    III)   nwii    Mi'i'ltinji.   Iml    wn'i  vnlnnlinily 

iilliMl'il    III    Inin    li\     iilli'    V\  lln,    ll    Wnlilil     IPIMII,    VVII-!    IM    lllllli 

iiri|miiiili'il  Willi  llm  |ii>i  nliiii  mimii.  im  u  im  Mi  Itn.^ 
Iimi'^i'll , 

<  'll   III"    I'  III   "I     \|'hI  llm  m|ii|ii  Ii-Ii   ||,|.   mvim,  mmivkiI 

III  1,1'IUirlv    III!    llln     KHll,    mill    nil     llm    I  il     n|    .Iniif    wmn 
Mimi'wlii'ro  nil  llm  iMHii'i  II  siiln  III    Miivm'm  Simile;  nin 
I' I 'I'll  I'll  sinw  ly  Iml  W  I'i'ii  I  III'  II  I  <  Mini  till'  wi'sln  11   ■:!;nii.  nj 

I  il  I'l'iilimil,  jiiMsini-  II  iininiii't   n|   wlmln  'iln|i     Immlv  fin 
|>lii\i'il,  mill  III!  llii'    I  ,||i  III  .Inim  jnil   mlit  W'livjrnt   Simil, 
m   wliirli   Will'    Inily   Inn   wliiili'm   i|i>liiini<i|   iiy   ihi.    ,,  |, 
Tins   sliiiil   M  riii'inoil  lii'lwnmi  lln<    'ilmm   o|  <  Ji mnlimil 
llllll    llm   I'^linnl    nl     hiHiu.   nn    u  Im  li    |.i    n    hmiiMli    mllln 
nmiil.       Ill  lliiM  imi^liliinlmnil,  iinmnj',  llm  jinmt'i  nl    liiml, 
llm    slmiih.  llllll   isliinil-i    llml    nlinnml,  llm    'iliipM  vvnn*   m» 
liiini|M«rnl  willi  irn.  llml  il   w  im  nnl  iniil  flm  :u\  „\  .Inly 
limy  ri'iirlmd  llm   Wmni'irH  Islnnih. 

'I'lmir  iloK'iilmii,   Imwi'vnr,  ilid    nnl    Im  U    iiinimnnmnl. 
Tim  liiiir  niHin  HiiiiM  mill  iliiiii'|i|ni '^   nl    I  )inmM  innl    limiid 
mim\  iliiimi'il  Scnii  li   imh   on  ||h>   ,|,,,.|;    ,,(    (|,„  |m,|„.||,^ 
with  llm  smlniM  ;   nml  Knss  hiis\s  : 

••  Siii'MiiiiiMi'''*  mil  III  llllll  jiiv  I'M  i'r,l.-il  iill  liMiiiiih,  niiil  willi 
/•iiiiil-iiiimiiii'il  iilli.iniiKiirHM  III'  |ii'rl..rmi'i|  ||,,.  nUi,',.  ,,l  miM- 
liTiil  llii'  <  rii'iniMiii'M.  \ii  i;ii|iiiiii;iiix  miinl.T  III  ll,,.  r.-r,.,,,!,. 
"""<  In  (1  llllll  UN  llm  ili'ili  III    III.;  mii|.'4iv''4  sliin-i  m    l||..    i,  y 

(       • 


J 


:k) 


AR(  rit.    \  (>v.\ (;!;:■'. 


S( 


US  (if  (irpf'iil;\ii(l   w.'is  nri 


.11 


ICC 


soiiirw 


li;it    new.  hut    NfLsli 


liiiiiscit   ('i)ul(l  iKit  li.iM-  (iiil'oiMH'il  liis  limitidii-'  ill  a  niiimirr 


iiioif  ii|>|)rii|in.itr 


It  liiil  not   Ix'loii:,'  t'M'ii  to  Na>li   liiiiisi'll' 


1()  «'(iiiil>iiif  ill  liisdwti  |ii'is()ii,  lil\t'  ,lii(l\,  the  tliscoitlaiit  (|u;il- 
ilicatiitis  (it  scaiiiati.  iiitcriirclci'.  (iiaiiu'li'siiiaii,  and  iiiastrr  ul" 


('(•rciiionifs  lo  a  liall.  vsitli  lliosc  nl 


•ti\t'  lislicr  (if  seals 


iiid  a  liiiiitcr  of  wliitc  hears 


■I' 


").")-(;. 


'^riiis  iiitelliirent   iiiid    iiminl)l»>    Ksruiiinaux,  .Itick  Siic- 
(•htM)Hs   (or    SiicUhouse).    altoi'ds    a    stfoiiy   t'XiiinpI*!    ol 
what  ii  littlt^  kiiidiM'ss  iiiid  iittciitioii  will  eU'ect  on  liiiiiiiiii 
lieiiii;s,  j'veii  in  tli(>  lowt'st  scidc  of  existence.      Of  tli(< 
history  of  tliis  yoiinu  nntn  there  will  he  occiision  to  speak 


lereatter 


On  th(»  fittitiii  out  of  the  present  expedition.  Captain 
liasil  Hall,  lindinii  that  Sacelieous  liad  ii  wish  to  join  it, 
made  his  desire  known  at  the  Adniirnlty,  and  he  was 
iiccordinaly  appointed  interpieter,  in  whit  h  capacity  lio 
proved  exceedin<:ly  useliil  in  the  very  limited  opportu- 
nity tliat  occurred  of  lioldinii  any  commmiit-ation  with 
his  iiatixe  comitryn.en.  Amon^  the  mirthfid  <^rouj)  he- 
forci  mentioned,  Koss    ells  us  : 

"  A  dau;,']iter  of  the  Danish  n>,-ideiit,  ahoiit  eighteen  years 
of  age,  and  hy  fjir  the  hesl  looking  of  tije  group,  was  the  oh- 
ject  of  .lack's  partictilar  attentions;  which  being  ohser\t'd  hv 
one  of  oin-  otlic-'r...  he  gave  lilin  a  lady's  sliawl,  ornamented 
Avith  sj)aiigles,  as  an  otVering  for  her  acceptance.  He  present- 
ed it  in  a  most  respectful  and  not  ungraceful  maimer  to  the 
tlainscl.  who  hashfully  took  a  ])cwtcr  ring  from  her  lingt^r 
and  presented  it  to  him  in  relnni ;  rewarding  him,  al  the  same 
time,  with  an  ehxpieut  smile,  which  could  leave  no  possible 
doubt  on  our  Ks(piiinau.\'s  mind  that  he  had  made  an  impres- 
sion on  her  heart." — 1'.  f)!). 

After  some  d«diiy  the  wind  chancod,  nnd  the  ico  be- 
gan to  separate,  leaving;  an  opening  along  the  coast ;  but 
Jack,  who  Inul  gone  on  shore  with  his  country  men,  )nid 
not  returned.  A  boat  was  tiuMefore  sent  to  bring  liini 
•ill";  but  the  jioor  fellow  was  fomid  in  one  of  the  huts 
with  his  collar-bone  broken,  having,  und»u*  tJio  idea,  as 
(expressed  by  himself,  of  "  /'h  nli/  /loicdt  r,  plctiti/  kill,'''' 
Dverloaded  his  gun,  and  the  violence  of  the  recoil  hud 
caused  the  accident. 

Ju  proceeding  norlhernly,  the  expeditiuu  came  up  witli 


(  U.M.MAM)I:R    .lUlIN    KOrfri. 


m 


>   ill    !l    llllllllllT 

Na.^li  liiiii.si'll" 
iscindiiiit  (|ii;il- 
;ni(l  iiiiistcr  of 
lislirr  of  Wills 


X,  .lack   Sjic- 

cxiiiriplt!    ()| 

ct  on  liiiiiiHii 

ICC.         Of    lll(5 

sion  to  spciik 

rioii,  Ciiptiiiii 
sh  to  join  it, 
and  ho  was 
capacily  lio 
trd  oppoHu- 
lit-ation  witli 
111  group  bc- 

i;,'lit('cii  yoars 
[,  was  flj(«  ol). 

ol)S«'l-\T(l  !)V 

oniainiMitt'd 

11«'  pivsciit,- 

inner  to  tlio 

II  lifi'  fui^uir 
,  al  tile  saino 
no  jiossililo 

e  an  iinpic.^- 

tiio  ice  he- 
oojist ;  hut 
•ynicn,  liail 
hriny  him 
if  th«>  hnts 
lo  idoa,  as 
lr/lf>/  kilt:' 

recoil  had 
tnc  up  witli 


several  ui'onps  of  wlialers  tliat  had  passed  thronuii  tho 
tines  ot'  ice,  ill  one  ot"  wliich  it  was  also  shortly  after 
heset,  in  latitude  7')^  'Xy' ,  "tho  Dexterity  whaler  now 
alone  continniiiii  in  sii,dit."  ^'et,  in  tho  same  pa;i;e,  Ixoss 
savs,  *•  We  arc^  now  arrived  at  a  point  betwcM'ii  wlii(!h 
and  Cape  Dudley  Dijiges  land  had  not  been  seon  by  for- 
mer navigators  ;"  as  if  whale-tishers  were*  excluded  from 
the  class  of  navigators,  llo  then  goes  on  to  say,  that 
•'between  latitude  7")-'  1"J'  and  HP  tho  shonj  foi-nuMl  ii 
capacious  bay,  in  the  midst  of  which  rose  u  ronuirkablo 
s|)iral  rock;  this  I  nauuMl  Melvillo's  Momiment,  in  grate- 
ful renieuibranci^  of  liui  lato  viscount,  from  whom  1 
received  my  first  commission.  '^Po  tins  bay  its(df  I  gavo 
the  name  ot"  Mehille's  Hay,  from  r<'!sp»'ct  to  tlu?  pr»>sent 
Kirst  Lord  of  tho  Admii'alty.  It  is  situated  botweiMi 
7')  I-''  and  7()^,  and  abounds  with  wiiales,  many  of 
which  wore  taken  by  the  ships  that  were  persevering 
iMiough  to  follow  us,'' 

And  no  doid)t  niMubers  of  whalcirs,  for  ages  before 
this,  liad  persevered  in  their  search  of  whales  far  be- 
yond the  latitude  of  7(i'^  ;  but  the  t^xpedition  being  one 
for  the  purpose  of  discovery,  sometiiing  new,  it  would 
seem,  was  to  be  struck  out  at  this  early  period,  whil(» 
on  the  (rrpj'idand  side  of  IJafthrs  iiay — a  coast  which 
could  afford  nothing  connected  with  tln^  Polar  Soa  or 
witii  the  northwest  passage.  In  point  of  fact,  Ivoss,  on 
the  outset  of  the  voyagts  even  in  the  title-page,  mis- 
srat«'s  (he  coidd  not  mistake)  the  objc^ct  of  his  instruc- 
tions. II(^  says  tht^  voyage  was  made  ''for  the  purpose 
of  exploring  liaffm's  JJay.*'  Now  there  is  not  a  woi'd 
in  the  instructions  about  exploring  liaffm's  May;  In^ 
was  to  stand  well  to  the  northward  before  crossing  over 
to  the  westwai'd,  but  not  to  sto})  on  either  coast  :  "  »he 
first  and  most  important  object  of  tliis  voyage  is  to  be 
the  discovery  of  a  passage  through  Jhiris's  Slr<ii/s, 
along  the  northern  coast  of  Amerita."  On  the  western 
coast  there  coidd  be  no  passages  int(  tiie  I'olar  Sea,  nor 
toward  the  coast  of  America. 

Opportunely,  however,  nn  event  occurred  which  af- 
forded him  un  occasion,  if  not  an  excus«\  for  delay.  On 
the  lOtii  of  August  eight  sledges,  diawn  by  native  Ks- 
•luiiiuiux,  wore   observed   udvaucing    toward   tho  pluco 


'^2 


AKt  I'll'   v<t\  .\i;i;.s. 


>vlnM'o  lln»  slii|)s  wcrt' 111  iinclior,  mid  ^iicrlu'oiis  wiisdis- 
piilidird  Willi  a  whili^  lliii;  mid  scmih*  pi'i'smls  lo  liold  a 
piirii'V  willi  llu'in,  iIh'V  ln'iini  pliif<'d  at  nii«*  sidr  <»!' u  cii- 


iial  or  rhasiii  in  Iho  in',  and  lit*  on  llio  other  sidi^ 


All 


(T 


loud  shouts,  Avords,  mid  iit'stun's,  Sarclu'oiis  soon  per- 
coivi'd  tliat  tlioir  laiimmno  was  tlni  sunii'  as  his,  hut  ol"  a 
ditlcrtMil  dialoct.  and,  holdinj;  up  his  prt's»Mits,  ho  callod 
out,  "('oint>  on;"  hut  tlio  I'oply  was,  "  No,  no;  f;o 
away."  And  ono  of  thcni,  approiichinii  tin*  rdiio  of  \\ui 
canal,  ropoatiMl.  "  (Jo  away  ;    I  can  kill  you,"  holding;  up 


iiiitt 


Sacclu'oiis  throw  over  an    Kniilish   Unito,  siiv- 


MIU, 


Take  that. 


Tl 


ilhJ    f/i> 


lis  they  picked  up,  shouted,  and 


•h 


It 


j)iiiii(f    lUtir    nofcs.      .>accueous,   in    return,   called   oi 
J  {<  ii^li-i/ttir  .'  puliiuix  his  nose  \\\*\\  the  same  iiestiire. 

This  jjulliiiii  of  noses,  which  is  re|)reseiited  to  he  tlieir 
mode  of  a  iViendly  salutation,  is  a  ti'ite  matter  of  litthi 
moment,  and  would  not  ht^  mentioned  here  hut  tor  the 
sinmilar  circumstance,  which  has  heeii  told  hy  sevtM'aJ  of 
the  ollicers,  and  in  jiriiit,  that  they  never  saw  nor  heard 
of  it  till  it  was  meiitione(l  hy  Commander  Koss,  for  the 
first  time,  at  Shetland,  on  their  return  hitme.  It  is  scarc(^- 
ly  possihl(»  that  such  a  foolish  ci'remony,  if  tVeijuently 
and  solemnly  repeattMJ,  could  have  escaped  the  notice 
t)f  all  the  ollicers  »>\cept  that  of  tho  commaiKh'r;  yet 
tliere  luiisl  he  somethinjj;  in  it,  for  JJack,  in  his  Arctic. 
journey,  mentions  rubbing;  of  noses  as  an  Ksijuimaux 
.salutation. 

The  following!;  is  somewhat  curious,  consid(>riim;  the 
numher  anil  frecpiency  of  whalers  visitinji  tliis  part  of 
the  coast,  ere  no  doiiht  much  intercourse,  must  have 
taken  phu  <  'jetAveiMi  them  and  the  innocent  nativ«vs  : 
Koss  says  uiey  soon  hecmne  more  familiar,  and,  point- 
iiiii  to  the  ships,  eafjeriy  asked,  "  What  yreat  creatures 
these  were  1  Do  they  come  fromtlio  snnor  the  moon  ? 
do  they  give  ns  liyht  hy  niulitor  hy  day  .'"  repeating  tho 
(piestion,  "  What  were  they  .'"  to  wliich  Saccheous  re- 
plied, "  They  were  houses  mad(>  of  wood."  They  re- 
.«;ponded  "  No  :  they  are  alive  ;  we  have  seen  them  movo 
their  wings."  M  ore  enlisihtened  than  tliese  Arctic  iligli- 
hmders  (for  so  Ixoss  calls  them)  did  the  messengers  of 
INlontezuma,  on  the  ani»alof  the  ships  of  Cortez,  in  like 
nuumer  eagerly  imiuire, 


(•oMM.wnrri  joiin  ro^js. 


:]3 


IS  Wiisdis- 
■■  to  llold  H 
lie  otu  ca- 
l«*.  Alicr 
soon  por- 
s,  hut  tif  a 
,  111'  culled 
<),  no  :  }r{) 
dye  of  lli(^ 

loldill^r    )||) 

viiil't',  Miy- 
iiitt'd,  and 
culled  ont 
[esturc. 
(>  !)(>  tlioir 
M-  of  little, 
lit  for  tlio 
s»>ver;d  of 
nor  heard 
•*s,  {'{)]•  the 
is  sraree- 
Ve(|nently 
ihe  notice 


er;  yet 

Arcri«-. 

uiinaux 


•injj;  the 

part  of 

ust  have 

latives  : 

point- 

eatures 

moon  ? 

iting  tho 

ous  re- 

H>y  re- 

M  move 

c  High- 

i^ers  of 

,  in  like 


"  Wlwit  (liviiif  iiii)ir-tir-i.  oli  yi-  l'<iiI-<,  mi-  llnsr, 
'I'lial  lloiit  ill  iiir,  iiml  lly  ii|iiiii  tlir  mi'.ih  ! 
('iiMii'  thiy  iilivc  (ir  (lr;i(l  ii|r()ti  till'  "liiiri'  t"*  \ r, 

S'lC'licous,  it  seems.  siictMfrded  at  i;ist.  "  liy  many  ar- 
l^nineiits,  to  peisnaiie  them  that  he  was  llcsji  and  hlood  ;" 
;iimI  the  niDsl  (•oiiia^i-ons  •■  venlined  to  tonch    Ins   hand, 
then  pnllinn  liiniself  l)y  the  nose,  set  npa  '-hont,  in  \vlii<'li 
lie  was    jnnied   hy    Siicclieons  and    three    olhei-s."       TmiI 
eniMiLih  (it  this,  which  runs  throniiii  eighteen  or  twenty 
pii^es.  t'ollowed    liy   a  whole    chapter   of   twenty    more, 
>vhich.   cdiisidrrcd    under    all   circn  nistinires,    wonM    he 
aimisiiii;  <'n<niL;ii.  did  it  not  pi-ep;n*e  the  rciirler  lor  snspi-- 
cion  as  to  its  accuracy,  as  well  iis  ot'  many  other  state- 
ments sniisecjiiently  recordeij  in  the  ItooU.      'i"he  titles  of 
ihis  extraordiniwy  chapter  are  :    "77/'    Snuntini)   tif  llir 
Ardii-  I l/a^hlii/ii/s  —  \iiliin   of    tin    ('mni/ri/       l^roilnci   nf 
tin    ('iiiiii/n/ — Li/ii  u  i/i/ii(    iij    lilt    jlniii-    11/  uIiIi/ik/i  r.s  — 
OriLini  of  til'    Arrin'   H  /  uliliiin/i  rs-  -  Dn.ss       Di  srr'i  jitinn, 
—  Siilijirl  (if  li<hu.iii>'  —  M<iili  iif  Ijirnii^,  dnd  ('iisloins — 
lliiliils  iiiid  (\isliiiiis."'       Koss,  indeed,  suspects  that  this 
a(C(Hmt  "may  appear  in  some  points  to  he  defective;" 
he    iniiy  salely  satisfy  himsell   that  it   will    not    only   (i]>- 
jiiiir,  in  sonn'  points,  to  he  ih'ficlivi,,  hut  will  he  so  |)ro- 
noiuiced  in  all  :    in  |)oint  of  fact,  he    lu'ver  set  his  foot  lai 
shore,  and  could  not.  liy  any  possihijitv,  liiive  Uiiown  any 
thiiii:  ol'  the  stnll'  he  has  set  down,  which  is  of  that  kind 
el  inaniiliictnre  not  worth  the  paper  (ai  which  it  is  print- 
ed.     .Most  readei's  will  a^ree  with  the  writer  in  a  pop- 
iiliM'  journal,  who  calls  it  "a  hill  of  lai-e  like  that  of  the 
liuidlord  in  the  play  —all  th.'  ^ood  things  are  stnlfed  into 
the  hill,  while  nothini;  is  foimd  in  the  lariler." 

Koss  may  certainly  |)lciid  examples  without  numher, 
in  the  hooks  of  modern  trnv  elers.  wherein  ini!ii:inalioii 
lias  vej-y  niiiterially  assisted  in  supply  iiii:  the  details  ;  hut, 
somethiiiii  ap|)roachiny;  to  /^/c/  is  expected  in  a  voyage 
like  the  present,  as  any  de\iation,  even  in  a  triMinj;  siih- 
ject.  is  apt  to  throw  a  doiiht  on  those  of  greater  moment. 
iSo  doiiht,  how'ver,  can  he  eutertaine(|  of  the  discovery 
of  a  physic;il  oiiject  (not  new,  however)  t'ound  on  the 
diifs  ot'  this  part  ol"  the  coast  of  I»iit1in"s  Hay,  not  far 
iVoin   Capo   Dudley    Diimes.      '»  W'e    now    discovered,"' 


;5 


*  ]):"yil<'n'ti  Ilinjicror  of  Mexico, 


-1 


;>  t 


MM    M<       V  '  '  \    \<;  I  ►<. 


en  \    -    1  \  i»  1  li'il    ( 1 1.'    '.unw     1  Ml    )  111-    liii  f    111    I  111 '    I  lill   I    |>l  r 

'.iiili'.l  ;1ll  t'l'l'i  'H'lm  !•  I'iMIi  tiiM  iI  nitil  mil  li'  (nii'  In  iim 
)i)i|  "ii  1  nl  I  \  I  :i  mill  I'l  i  .  m  n  ■  1 1  I '  \  ■  .mm.  •  ■  \  1 1 1  I  'im  i  •  \\  In.  Ii 
}VM  1'       I'       '\      il.    I'p     I    \  mi     .  'M      1    .  ill  >l  I    111   ■        llnw  111'     llilil     , 

'  ■  \\    1       )>i   111  1 1  :»l  I'll    ii  1  n   .lii\\  M    1 1>  I  111 '   1  111  l>  .  Ill    ni'in  \     pliii  i"! 
1  ii   •!    it.'fil  li   nt    1 1'M  iii    I  \\  I'll  (•    I ,  '1  '1     li\    t  111'  I  nlm  mil   1111)1 1  I   1 
Ml       liliii       ii\  ll.-\\iMili\.i|iimi.iil,(||.|llliiiii|, 

mm.  iii:iI|im1'iiiI  wli'il  itlil'i\.liii''lli'l  jiiin'liilli'liiii|i> 
lliim    rin    mill   i>i    tw.i  li.iii-'illi    llii'      niliiii'   nl    tlii'      iinw 

\  I  ■  I  n  \  I  .  m )  I '  I  ( I  n  I  >  : ,  111  1  1 M 11  1 ■  >  \  1 M  1 '  '  1 1 1 1 1 '  1 1  I  1 1 1 1 1  I ' 1  1 1 
ywy  .111'  I  !ii  1  1"  I  >l  ■  ii  linn  nil  'in  ii  |  '|  >i  mi  in  i.  n  .  I  ml  1 1  1 1  i 
•i'tX'.  n  \\n:  'U  mill"  ili'ii'iiimu'.l  ii  imiM  nul  In'  lln- 
iluiii  1  ><  1mi  .1  .  "  vi\  liiM  :i  li:i  t  \  rmii  III  'inn  Im  \|  i  1 1  i  !tnili« 
lliii  I  li.mn  I  in  wli.mi  n  \\  ■»  :  tii  jI  iiliimlli.l  nn  llm  in 
1 1ll  i\  iil  I  111'  n\  ni  iln  i.m  .  (  m  I  lli '  |  <ii|  pn  i  •  nl  I'm  ii  "  mi  :il  \  ml, 
lltlViMi  ilnli'i  111!  Ill  ii  ill  1.1,  |Miii'niini  n.l  il  'il  nlii  n  In  Im 
llir   i-\rliMUi~iU    nl     ImiiI  I  t    >\    I  .    llm    ..m.   i;il   ii|iiiiiii|i    nl 

llm  iiiiii  iM'<,    \\  li.i  I'  \  inmii'.l   il    Willi   llm    iim  i  .>   .  npn,    1 1  ml 
It    imti-l    l»n   >  I'.-.'l   iMn  ,     ;ln.l    in    llii-;   iipilllnn    I  *i       \\    nlltl^ilnu 
ronnn  Vi'il.   Mtini     :i    ninmin  n\:»nimiil  mn    I'nili    l'\    llm   mi 
i'vo<.(  i>)>o  !\n.l  I  Immii  :il  t  n^l  ■<       \  nl   '■<    i'\  nn  liMil  In  :  liniilil  j 
Mi     Im  nw  n,  llm  ,  .-InKi   il  n.l  I'lH  ;»iii  ,( .  i  nni .  d  n  i  ni  1    il    nm  111 
1-n  1  iiM  i<  ivl  I  riMt\   >..Mnn  nl   i  Im  nl>    r,  iimiI  i  'i  \   n.   ni    1 1 1  iimll  n 
I    /',>>>..','   .■>,,•?'.'  ^  .    llm   mm  n   |Mnl':ililn.   n  ■;    llm   i  nnl  •-   nl 
llm    nii'>>.';    y\     '^y>'i  m^    nl      /*..),/',■.  >i'\.    i  nmninii    nn    llin^n 
rli(i->.   :ii  n    ilnnp    s,  mini       ilnnjv    niiln.'.l,    nm    I     llm\     lin    In 
•SMiiiM  iMi  llm  nnMiionnti  -1\   n\;»i'ini  .iin.l  )m  ml  nl  llm   n  i  inn 
siMi    rl.iK.   Hi.    «n!n\"n.i    m    llm    >  ninmn  I'lmi  n    I'J    nnlliim' 

nn\\  .  ImNx  I'x  iM,  m   llm  iii>.<n\  ni  \    nl   inil   snnw  l'lm\    jniil 

olluM    >x  vifnrs  i>l   lu'.  luni»  iwniiunn  ii  .    Smi-'-mn    Inuuil   il 
m  >!Uu^ii>.  P'lvii^  iM    llm    Vlp'^  .     ^Iiiilm    Inuuil    ii    m   .'^|iii 
l^,M•^;■^■>n.   ;>u,l  \m  I'nulM    i1    n^  (n   bn  nml    \\  u  h  m   nin.l   ;il|inm 

V  Imlo  i.n-lliov  (Ml.  ihn  slup";  >v«mo  ^i^^ilnil  li\  llnni» 
OlIuM  )'"  •>(^\"inn;ui\.  Irnni  >\  Imin  intovmtiliou  >\  m-  ininnml 
llim  llio  iron  ]Vir1  nl  tlmu  Knn  ."- \>  iw  fnnnil  nn  ;i  mminl 
Sin  m  s:^■«v^1  in!»vK,><.  nn.i  i]\:il  n  \>  ;><  ;«  |vnl  nl  thn  nmnnl- 
Rin  :  ihnl  m  oiliov  pin.  n-J  il  \>  m--  rnnn.l  m  snli.i  pmi-"'.  i<ii 
ihr  vr.ri'n.w  :iii.1  lh:U  -.Imv  ii;t  )f  ntV  wuli  h:iiil  -.tnnn. 
)^,^v«^  '  ,^\xtMr".  iMul.i  ;int  Mj.Tnn.l  ni  olMitmin:;  :\\\\  nl' 
l)u'  nvi^^-t^*.  .  !mi1  a  •»n>;»il  puN  <\  IvMn,'".  o\;»nnnnil  ni  I'm;'. 
l!V,-!.'.,  \x  '^v  iniui/.  5.>  roni.nri  lh«»  iisu;il  prnpni  lion  ot  nulvol 


•   '  I  M  \l  V  W  Ml   II      li  HI  M      IK  I  !vi 


:m 


It"   I  lill  1    |i|  ,< 

I  ■  :|  Mli'  .  Iii'illll 
I'llli    f     \\    llli    ll 

l\  .'•  I..  ,..|,|  . 
ni!Hl\       |<llll  CM 

Mill'    I  M 1 M  I  I    I      " 

Ihfil   (III  •  .  m|^ 

lli'l  1  111  I'    Mlitl  I' 

(111'      III  1  \\ 

Vll       <    |>I|(    I    I  II 
">  ;     I'll!      Ii  n-,'.| 
n.'l     I'.'     til,. 

Ml    Id. III. I,. 

i|     lUI     (  ll,.      I  ,. 
II"   llll!l|\    •■I'll, 
I      ..II,    ,.     (,,    I,,. 

ll  iipiin.in    ,i| 
"■^1  i'|"\   llmi 
\\  I'llii-M.iii 

I    l'\     ll|i>    nil 

I  In  .  il.Mil.i  j 
1 1'. I   It    nil.  Ill 

IM      1  1  illli'll   f 

llii'   I  ...ll  ■,    nl 

Ml    oil    (h,.,,, 

lli.\     I..'    t.> 

I  111'     l<  I    lull 

'   I-'   iiKiliinc 

I'llMV     Mill! 
Ill'     1,11111,1     ll 

n    III   Spit 
in"-1  ;il|»nn« 

'.I  In    (111 .'!» 

.1^    I  I'l    iM\   i>,| 

'11  ;i  in. Mint 
llii'  in.iiini  - 
i  I'll'.  .',  ,>n 
h;ir.t  -.tiMii'. 
iM:;  ;niv  of 
1^1  Ml  l'n,.< 
i'u  nt  m.  ImI 


I  I 'IV  mo    iiin\    |iii    ■imI  I    Mill.   I  III,  II,   •,     I  Im,m(.i).    u  Im-  Ii    |;  ,,..'c( 

' '       '■'       '"'       •'       •'■'\        ""•'  ''•      '•'■         '      MMll,:,,     .,,,1     ,,l       ll,,.      .     ,  I,  Mil, ,11, 

111   v\Ih'  ll    liMlIni    Imi    hiiil    ll    ,|,M-,  11,    \\   I.I  :ti.Mli..|ini.    Mini'l 

I    Mini.    Ill        ll.lll    III    I  III.    Ill.l   Ihw   ,|MJ    ;      .,M,|,  „.,    ^V(.    Wl'l  I.    .;(,.,., 

Ml  I,. I       ll       IV    llll      ,1      lilM.      1,1,...,,..      ,mmI      ll,,.  ,.„      „h,,,„,|      ,    ,,     ,,,       ,,| 

}•  >•  w  <•  ;'it\<'  n|»  nil  III,  !i  <.|  •  iiiiiniiiiiii  .,|,,,„  ^^  ,(|,  ij,,,  /^  ,,,,, 
"'  ''■  '  ■'"  '/"  ''!■'>'■/'  '  ■  111.-  Iii,|..-.  ,,|  „i;,nhn,i,  d,,, 
I"'""'   "'l'  '  '    "•   III'     '  nil  I  |i,i    ,.    „.,,,.    lunv    I, ,,...,., I    I,,   .,,,1  I, 

"     I"    '"lit      'I    ■     I"     "I'll    "     (I'lll.     W    111,    I,     VV'l    !     ,   Mil.    nil    ,,.i|      ,    ,,     ,|, 
""''''"    '"'•    "     '"^^      '"""    ■    I"    I'lll-.    Ill,     .,I.|.    1    I     1,1      ,|,,     , ,,, 

'''""'■"'  '  '•  '"'  ■■  ii"l'  '  -I,  '(iiili.  I,, III.  ll,  ||,n,|  ,,|  ll,,, 
"  !■"""'     "I'r  "  '."     iniil     I.. .111.     I.I  I,,,,, I     ||,„|     .:  ..,,,    ,|,,.,,,„|,|,, 

"""'  ''"•  ''""'  "•  "  III!  "11. III.'  ImI...  ,,|  I,.,,,,,,,,,,,,,  I),,. 
\  .  'M   liiM  nil.  inlnnii  i.i|  |,.  i|,i.  |  .  ||,  ,,|    \  ,,,,,,    ,    ,,,,,|  ,,^^    ,,  ^^^ 

'"'I'"    '•"    I"" Iinlli.l    ihImmh  ,  ,|  ||,,,i,    (,,   ll,,,    v^.,.    I,  Ml 

'""     '    "'    '•"""I I     '"1    VN   ll"   I.   ,   Mil     t    I,.,     ,„,   ,„,.      ,|.,|,,.^     ,   ,,,,,,, 

"    I'll'    'I.""    I""     l"'in.|         ,; ,.||,,,,,i     ,,, I, ,i\v. •<..,,    ll,,,,, 

•'"■    """"\     ' '"II'Im  ,    V\  llll  1,    I'.MlIni    „l I,.,.,     „(|i,,,|,>i| 

"  •  ^^'•"''1.  ""  'l""li(,  liini.  |„  ,.,,  ,|,.,,,„|,|,.  ,  ^,  „  ,,,^  ,,||^ 
;l   III   <  i,  ,.i  11  liiip  I 

"'•  '■"=  '"  •''"    \^'"'    '"I .':..nM.I   UM...   .nn.|,|..h- 

'^    '■'"•'  '"'    "I-    ^^"l I I     inis    |,ni|,    ,;    ,|,,,.    ,,,    |,,^ 

"^^"'  '"'"■  ' '  l'">'"  I'li'^.'-I   ll  ..I  ll,,.,|,.| ,,,,1  (,„,y 

""'"•'"'    ''■"-■'  •     ■'•'"    I."    ll"    'MN^i,    '■    .,,.„.", I    I.,    |„. 

'""""  '"    '^\""'S    I" ^  M,  ,1,  ,ii|,  ;••   I  ,(   ,,,     ,,^.    ,,,_, 

'"'"  '" '"'  •""••'   '"'^ II  III-     li-.l I   ,1     ||,,„,„|, 

''""    '""  "  I'"" '"'"    '•"".   ll...  .|,,|.  „|   |.„,,  „  |,,,„,|,,.,| 

""'•'^    •      '"'     '""'      l""^ "I\       |'l"|.l I     ll,..     ,,    ,„|,.,     :      (,„ 

•'     '"""■      ■■'•"'"•      I'l'*'"."      II      "IIIIMJ       ll,,.,,,        ||,„,_      ,,,      ,1,,^,,        ^^^     1^^ 

V""'""'-    '''"'      '"' •'"'Mllil.'    (..^rn   I |,„    .,„    unn.r.M.o 

"""""•"'•     •""'•    •' •    """    "    ""    ImIM      ,,M|.,„,    ,,|i.,.|    ,|,„, 

III"  I-.un,    nl    M.iiin   u,,,   ..Mi.,„|,m|    |„.v.„„|    ,,nn    ln„,.l,,,| 

"'"'""^    ""'"^'"       "'•    "   ■    I     '''1111.1,..  ..,.v...W,.|„„,„| 

"";    """ '"    ""^    '"'-•■■   0\'"M.'i.li.:ln...,  nlnn    l-Miy 

""'•;^  ""^  "  '""'  •'"•  .' "ll  l"i I  ii|.|..'.,nM,<",,|  ih„ 

'•■""';""''' M'-.i..|\   u.'ll  vMll,  III"  , I, ..,.,,,„,„„  „„„„ 

"'  "   ''.^     ''■■ '•"        ^l<''i..'.'r  iMinn.-li,  „   iniKi  |„.  ,  ,,|,|,  ■^„,,| 

'■''"""''•""■'"'  ^"'   "  ^^<'HMl.'.,nnn^  vrrvt-,,.,,,  .,,„„(; 
•;'     "•llli'l'Mi.-"    In    Imlirvn    ||,„l    nilV    jiiill     .,l     I '.  „|  |  n.'-;    I.n,.| 

'';';''"i""">  '""M  '">   .M-i.  Ill  ii.m  I ,,  ,h,,„,„,.     -,,,,, 

"'"".'""■'1'"     '" '^     ""^^'•"     '^    ""    I'll.-niUMl.    llMVIII-    M„ 

'''"'"'  '"  "' "'^•'-  "imKii.,",  Inn.M.iniiM..-:.  (n.vui-  nmny 


A 


:u\ 


AllcriC    XiiVAMS. 


iiiNM'^  or  siniilliT  '^(lllnll'<  williin  it,  mid  i'^  ii  lil    plin'i'  lur 
tln<  Ivilliii;:  III    \N  li;ilt'->." 

Twn  liiMIl-.  illlci-  pil'-MII;',  \\  nl  .Iclliiolllic.  I  Ili'V  <!IIMO 
n|>|i(i'.il  !•  \\  li;ili'  Soiiiul.  Jiinl  |'ii^s(<(|  il  ill  II  ^rciilcr  ills- 
(Miicf  lliiiii  lli(<  toiiiKM'  :  l>ill  lli<*\  riiiilil  iii>|  :i|i|ii  njirli  it, 
III  ;i  I  lire  I  I  Inn-  nil  :i(  rniliit  ol  t  lii>  lir.  'I'lir  s:iiiii<  i-M'ii 
III:;  it  !•>  >l;it«i|  lli;it,  iit-iii  ( ',in'\ 's  Isliimls.  "tlii-'-i'ii  \\  ;is 
1  IcaiiM  ol  tliM'^  iinti  Idu^c  ICC  tliiiii  \\  r  liiiil  r\iT  seen  it.  " 
'I'lii'v  li;i(l  ;iil\iiin«'(l  mIhiiiI  iniiliiiutil  <'l  tin-  l!itli  to  the 
iioillii'iii  (tuiicr  ut  r.jitiiirs  r.jiy.  wlinr  Sir  riiniiiiis 
Sinilir->  Siiiiiid  opens  (Mil,  and  w  Inch  llti'.s  sii\  s  "  \\  ih 
ill-.!  nil  1 1\  siMMi,"  and  lie  iiaiiicd  llii>  two  capi-s  turiiillii; 
It--  cntiaiicc  iil'tiM  tli<>  two  sliip^.  Isaludla  and  \  IcxaiidtT. 
• '  I  coilshiiMt'd,"  sji\  s  K  OSS.  '•  llio  hoUnni  (it  tills  sound  lu 
lu»  alioiit  ciLililccii  lca:Mii's  distant,  liiit  its  ciitiaiicc  was 
coiiipIclcU  i'lockcd  lip  l>v  ICC."  lie  rori^cls  that.  I>\  hi.s 
t'wn  show  nu:,  lii>  was  ih-mt  lienor  than  m\I\  I'.iii^lisli 
nnlcs  troni  iho  (nfr<iiu-i  ot  it.  \ii  :ili|o  and  honest  tcs- 
tinion\  on  this  point  is  <'onlaiiicd  in  a  small  tract  piih- 
lisjicd  |i\  Mr.  l"ish(<r.  the  assistant  siir;:ooii  ol'  the  \lc\- 
aiidor.  an  inlrlliL^ont  and  acino  otiK'rr.  who  sa\s  that, 
Ikmih;  iiiiich  inl'.Mcstcd  m  asccrtaiinnu  whether  (Ireeii- 
laiid  and  the  west  land  joined,  he  kepi  the  t\i'{U  all  ihiN  ; 
.•ind  llioiii^h  the  wealher  was  i(>iiiarkali|\  clear  and  line 
lill  niidniL;h',  he  coiiM  not  see  an\  such  jiinelioii.  '*  II. 
»s  pidliahle.'"  he  adds.  "  that  iheehasin  or  open  -..pare  to 
the  iioithw  ard,  \\  liere  not  any  land  could  he  traced  In/ 
71) I  ,  miulil  he  ihal  which  r>alhn  calU  Sir 'riioiiias  Siiiltirs 
Sound,  -lid  ^\llll■h  he  desciihes  ;is  ihc  deepest  and  lar- 
i:e-.i  soniiil  III  all  this  hay  :  and  it  is  not  likely,""  sa\  s  l'"lsh- 
er,  •'  that  we  should  Iia\e  seen  the  hoitoni  ot  it  at  such 
••)  dist;ince,  ;is  we  estimale  that  we  are  twciilN  leagues 
iVoiu  the  northern  extreme  of  the  west  land  visihle." 

.\s  (his  sound  is  slated  i>\  rdilliii  to  he  the  laiiiesl  of 
Jill  lh<'  sounds  he  discovered,  iiiid  coiisiderini:  its  positinii 
:Mid  Its  niai:nil  iide.  it  appears  hy  no  jiieans  iinprohahle 
that  it  i>  a  w  iiie  sirait  di\  idini:  (ireenland  Ironi  Americii, 
i>r  the  west  land  as  Mr.  I'isher  calls  it.  thus  \erit\iiiij; 
the  dii'tiiiii  uivcn  hy  I'Mirlei^h  more  than  two  eeiitiiries 
;ii:o.  Anions;  the  papers  ot'this  extraordiniiry  inaii  in 
jlii^  i)rilisli  Museum  is  oiu'  on  the  siihject  ol'  a  iiorth- 
Vt'cui  ji.Ls^iiii^e  ti)  C"iithuia,  in  his  loid!«hip"s  own  Imiui- 


(iMM  \Mil  K     .r<  i||\     Un.-^.i. 


•ly 


:i 


il     |'liici>    Inr 

lln'V    nimo 

i|i|ii  i>ii<  Il  il 
■.iinii"  <'\  rii  ■ 
lir  -.('il  \\  ;r-i 
fv  ^rcii  II .  " 

I  'illi  III  lli(> 
^ir    'riiniiias 

>-il\  s    ••  WilS 

|H>s  1(111111111; 
\  IcMiiitlcr. 

Ills    Sllllllll    III 

iliiiiirr  \\  ii^ 

1 1 1)1 1.  Ii\    Ins 

\l\    l'',iii:lisii 

llOllCsl      It'S- 

Iriiil  |ml»- 
I'  llir  \lr\- 
I    sil\  s     lIlJll. 

Iirr  (irrni- 
rr\\  iill  iliiy  ; 

ir  Mini  lini' 
el  iitii.  '*  Il 
irii  ■-|iiirr  to 
Iriimi  III/ 
\\:\^  Smitli's 

•>^l   iiiiil  liir- 

sil\  S  i''lsll  - 
t'  it  Ml  such 

it\    IrMiiiics 
|\  i--il>lr."' 
huiii'sl   III 

lis  |nisilinii 

llll|ll'llilMi)Ii^ 

11  AiiuTicii, 
s  \rril\  iiii; 
)  criitiirirs 
|iiy  iiiMii  in 
li  M  norlh- 
twii  Imuil- 


wnlmu.  wliiili   lii'iiiiis  lliii4  :    "  ( 'mi  .hIi  riii"  (  tni\  iifliinili' 

H    W  I'll    KlIoVV  II     !••     Ill'     III!     I  'Im|I<Ii>.    Mll'l     lIlMl     ll     1.      Iliil     l'(i|l 
|,i\  iiimI     III      Vnii'lliM     III     IIIIN     |iMll.     IMIil     lll.ll     llli'ir      1'^     lli> 
(  ;iii.r    III    iliiulili-    lull    lluil     ll|iiill    llir    IHHlll    III     liMrrilllKis 
till'   s(';is  Mil-  ii|irii  "  ■    A  1. 

r>iil    jl.illiii's    m  riiiiiil     III    Sir    rimiiiMs   Siiiilli'-;  SihiihI, 
liiii'l  ;is  ll    is,  iiii^'IiI   III  liMvi'  iinlnrril    llii^.  In  luiik   iiilu  il  ; 
iiiiiir   r.{ii'i'iMll\     IIS    lie    \  i  ilillll  M  l  ll  \    MIIIIdiiim  rs    |||r    i'\|ir 
illtliill    In    111'  •■  |n|     llic    |(lll  |ln,i'    ii|    i  •  \  |  l|n|  1 1|;;    r.ildlll's    \',:{\  ." 
riMllill  iilil\    sM\s.   ••    ll    riiiiiirlll    III    till'    linilll    III     /  -     ,   Mini 
I-,  M.ltiill  mIiIi'   III  nlH'    li'--|ii'rl ,  Imtmiisc   III    ll    IS  llii'   :.;irMli'    I 
\;ili;illiill     III     llli'    cnllllUlssr    ul'    llliy     |ilirl     III     till'     Klinwii 
Wnllil:     Inr    li\     lIlMTs    ^iiilij    I  ilisi 'IS  M I  Kills     I     Inllll'l     ll     In    lir 
mIhi\  I'   U\^'    1 11  Ml  I  Is,  I  u    I'll  ty    SI  \   (Ic'^rrrs,  \  MIH'il  In  I  lir  Wr  -I 
WMlil."         IhiI     IIm'    s|  |(i|lL'r-.|     ICMsiMI    llllll     slimilil    llJIM-    n|l 
il.lli'l   nil    lln-.".    Illlinl    W  II  .    llic    |ins  .iliilil  y    ul     lllis    snllinl 
Imiiil;  ',[  \\  nil'    •llllll,  opriiiii^  (lirrrlly   iiitii  llir  ruliii'  Sc;i. 
ami  ;iIIi>I(Iiiil;  llir  slimlfsl  |)M-.sM^^•  I  liimiiili  il  In  {'.rliniii^'M 

"sliiiil        ;i     illsciiM'iy    lIlMl    Wlllllll     llMM'    III  11  III  III  illl/,rl  I     llllll. 

Ill'  WMs  III  lull  lilii'ity  In  use  Ins  ilisri  cl  mil.  S|ti'Mkiiii; 
i\\'  Ihivis's  SliMit,  Ins  iiisl  nicl  ions  say  : 

"III    till'     |ili'  .rill     stair    nl     lliirrltaillts'     Willi     ir;M|i|     In    llic 

iiin\  riiu'iils  111  till'  ill',  aiiil  Willi  llir  \i'i\  i  iii|  in  |i 'il  Kimwl- 
<(l::i'  wr  lia\i'  nl'  llii-,  strait,  and   still    ninic  sn  nj    llif   sea  lir- 

\nllil     ll.    lin     -lirrilic    I  ll  >.l  rilcl  |i  il  l-<   i.'lll     111'    :.'r>i'l|    Inr     \nlir    I'IIkI- 

aai  1'  :   till'  liini'  ami  iiiaiiin'r  nl  |irnri'i'(l  ihl;  In  In  Mil  I  llir  iiltrri 
1  If  nii|i'i  t  III   \  iiiir  ili'--l  I iia t mil,  in   |ilai  r  -i  w  lir i c   iiii|iri|  nnrnN 

llia\  nrciir.  Illll^l  lir  Irll  rllt'ri'ls  In  \nlir  1 1  i -irr  I  Inn,  in  llir  r\- 
rii  i-r  111  wlili  ll  \\r  rrl\  nil  \nlir  /ral  ami  skill  in  yniir  |i|n- 
|r-,i(iii  Inr  ihr  ari'ii|ll|ilis|iiiiriil,  a>  lar  im  il  ran  111-  arcniii- 
|ill-liri|.  nl    ihr   srr\lir   nil    wlllill    \ni|   arr   r  III  |  iln\  i  ■(  I .  "t 

<  Ml  i(iiiii(liiii;  llin  imrllii'rn  Mini  t  niniii^  iluwii  t  lir  wrsl- 
rrii  riiMst,  iillcr  pMssiiii;  llm  nil  i'miici'  nl'  Sir  'rimniMs 
Siiiiili's  ."^ninnl.  Mr.  l-'islicr  iisscrls,  mihI  M|t|)raU  In  tlm 
ln^  111  till'  \  lc\MI|i|«>r  In  |irii\r  il,  lIlMl  "  im  |;iiii|  was  srrii 
In  tlir  imrliiwMiil  ill  thai  ilii  rctinii."'  (  )iit'  nl'  the  nKirns 
ilrclai'i's  ihiif  hi'  saw  the  sun  at  inii|iiit;hl  lhrnu;^h  lln- 
(i|ii'iiiii^  nl"  the  sniiiiil  in  (|U('s|  ion,  just  skiniiniii^  mImho 
till'  hnri/nii.  'riirsi-  iiri'  iinwi'ilnl  lirmiiiils  I'lir  Imlirviiii; 
thai  I'liirli'iuli  iliij  imt  iiuikr  ihr  ;i-si'rtinii  at  raiiilmn, 
"  that  ( irrrnliniil  was  wi-ll  Ivimwii  tn  he  mii  isliiml." 


*   I.;!a''.li)\vii>.  ( 'ullii'tiiin. 


I) 


I   .\iliiiira!ty  Iiiitnictiorn 


i 


:rs 


A  lie  lie    \(iv,\(;r,s. 


(  >r  llit>  rriii.'iiniii^  sniirnl  ol  l>;iHiii,  wliirli  lii>  iimdic^ 
\Mriiiiiiii  .loiics's  SuiiikI.  nil  wr  Iciiiii  liinii  K  uss  is, 
t  liill  "It  ;ilis\\  i<i  I'll  In  I  lir  ilt<sri'i|)l  mil  (i|  AJilft'lllii  li  .loiirs's 
Suuiiil  i;i\tMi  liy  I 'mHiii.  u  iii>  iliscov  imimI  il ."  "W'rwrm 
Ill-Mr  the  riiliiiiM'c  ol  .lniirv's  Stiimd,"  S!i\  s  (  '!i|iliilll  Sii- 
Ihih'.  "  lull  iidl  s(»  iiciir  ;h  ItMHiii.  who  s(>iil  liis  JHint  mi 
sliinc."  So  llli^llt  ( 'oiiiiii;iii(|i>r  lvns'4  liiivc  (luiic.  who 
rrmiiiiirtl  llicrc  110111  tlio  'Jlsl  to  llio  t.'.'.d.  wln-ii,  "  to- 
w  .nil  t'Nciiiii^."  lie  s;i\  s.  "wo  sii(fi"-^i\  oly  iiiiiilo  out  tlio 
north  iiiiil  soiitli  |ioiiils  ol'  till'  laiiil  iici'oss  tlio  Itnthuii  ot 
\\\\^  liny  or  inlet  ;  iit  iiiitliiiulil  n  ri'li:*'  of  vory  hii^li 
iiiiiiiiil.iiii'^  Wii-^  '-COM  to  oxtoiiil  iiojirly  .'icross  <h(<  liotloiii 
ot  it.  Mini  loimiii:  iiiiothor  iVoiii  iho  south  ;  on  llio  ■jlth 
\\  o  liail  n  slill  liottor  \io\v  ol'  iho  ImihI  Mhoiit  .Ioiics'm 
Stniiid  :"'  lull  still  no  boat  was  son!  on  shoii^  (tn  any  ol" 
llii'so  lour  i\;\\  s. 

It  has  liotMi  thon^hl  iii;ht  to  nolico  the  total  want  ol' 
nvy  int'onnat  ion,  in  aildition  to  that  olitaincd  hy  llallin, 
rospottiii!;  liis  discoM'iy  of  thoso  so vo  111 1  sounds,  as  1 10  has 
rallod  them  ;*  and  the  nioro  so.  alh-f  roatliini  the  follow 
iiii:  oxtrMordiiiary  parai;rai)h  in  ( "omniiindof  Koss's  Intro- 
diu'lion.  whi<li  ran  only  h,i\o  lioon  |)oiint<d  from  want  of 
kiiowlodiio  ol'  tlio  suiijocl  :  "  lit  lodiscovoriiuj;  Jiallui'M 
r>ay.  I  liMVo  d(>n\od  i^rcat  additional  ploasuro  Ironi  tlio 
roljoclioii  that  I  ha\o  placed  in  a  fair  liiiht  hct'orc  tins 
j>uMic  the  merits  oi' u  worthy  and  ahle  navii:;Mtor,  whoso 
tMti'.  like  that  of  many  others,  it  lias  not  only  hccii  to 
liM\c  lost,  by  a  coinliinatioii  ttf  untoward  circumsianccs, 
the  opportunity  of  accpiirim;  dui'iiii;  his  lifetime  the  faiiH> 
lie  dcscr\ed.  hut,  could  ln<  liavi>  livcil  |o  this  period,  to 
lia\e  sctMi  his  discoveries  e\|)uimed  troni  the  records  of 
ueocraphy.  and  the  hay  with  which  his  name  is  so 
fairly  associated  treated  as  a  phantom  of  the  ima;;iiia- 
1 1011." 

l-".\i'ry  person  al  all  acijUMinti^l  with  voyages  of  dis- 
covery knows  thai  liallin  was  not  only  a  skilfull  iiaviua- 
tor,  hut  so  well  \ersed  in  nautical  astronomy  as  to  he 
ahle  to  deduce  the  loiiiiitude  from  lunar  ohsei'vatioiis. 
Whether,  as  pilot  lUily  to  IJoherl  Uylot.tliis  last  voya^o 
was  iiel  »>\aclly  to  his  mind,  and  was  therelore  more 
>ai;iiely  and  unsatisfactorily  recorded  than  any  id'  hi.s 
i'rul>alily  iViiii  t!i;'ir  i'.tlorilai;:  i-iiuii,liP;;-<  I'ur  sliijw  tci  aiicliur  in. 


toMMAMiKK    .M)|l\    KOS.i. 


:vj 


II  Knss  IS, 
mil  .luiirs's 
'  We  wrio 
";i|)liiiii  Su- 
ns    lllllll     Mil 

(lollf,  \vli(» 
\  In-ii.  "  to- 
iilt'  out  tllM 
•    hnlltilil   III 

vt'iv  lni:h 
(Iii>  liiitliiiii 
HI  llir  -Jllli 
lilt    .hitirs'M 

(til    iinv  ol" 

l;il  \V!iiit  ol" 
I  hy  liiiniii, 
Is.  (IS  lie  lias 

tilt'   ItllldW- 

oss's  liitro- 

llll  Willll    1)1 

\Uii  I'.iillin's 

iVoill    lln'« 

»('ttirt«  tlio 
lor,  wliosis 
V  hooii  to 
iinsiauccs, 
tin-  ruiiio 

|)(Mio(l.    to 

it'conls  ol 
aiiir    is    so 
iiiiaiiiiia- 

i^cs  of  »lis- 
iill  iiaviya- 
\,-  as  lo  ho 
isorvatioiis. 
ast  voyaiio 
■t'oro  iiioro 
any   of  liis 

alirho!'  in 


otlh'i's,  liH  iircoiint  III'  it  is  nii(li)iilitcill_\  iinliKo  tlio  pio- 
(lMllll^  iMiii  ill  i\  t's  (il  liis  Miyiii^cs.  rmHin  is  •>()  iiniill 
iiwaic  "I  tins,  lliat.  in  liis  h'tlrr  to  \]y.  .Iulm  \\'o!->ti'ii- 
Iiii|ini>,  ho  ohsiTMs.  '•  S(iiii»>  may  iphjrci  nml  iisKr  why 
\\r  '-iiii:;h(  that  (•oa--l  no  ln-tlt'r  !"  In  wliuli  lie  iijlc'^c-,  m 
an ■^w  or.  I  III'  liailnrss  n|  I  lii«  woat  hor,  I  ho  loss  nl  anchnrs, 
llir  wcaUiioss  nl'  llio  rrou,  aiiil  tllo  (iilviincod  st-iisoii  of 
till-  \tar.  r>nl  as  to  tlio  oxpnnijini:,  liis  discovoiioM  I'lniii 
iho  locoiils  III'  i;o()i:ia|»liy,  llio  liioiiinlloss  iissoi'lioii  is 
iIni'Ii  no  iiiuro  than  "a  |)hantoni  ol  llio  illumination." 
rnirhas  rvcnsos  Iniiiscir  t'ur  not  pnlilislnii^  his  chiii't, 
:iiiil  lalilos  on  acfinint  of  iho  oxpoiisc  ;  lait  i  rjuni  <'  i  n  !<; 
Ins  ilisciiv  orios  is  a  disitinni  ol'  ( 'oMimandrr  Moss,  anil 
ijii'ir  III  il  I'oniain.'' 

1 1  illiorto  Koss  hail  laiot'nlly  avoiili'd  a|i|>i  <i.i<  hint;  any 
nl'  ilir^o  soiiiiils  williiii  t'oily.  lilty,  or  sixty  niilos,  ami 
riMisi'ijiionl  ly  roiilil  nol.oi'  ilid  nut,  soml  a  hoat  to  luiiU 
into  liny  ol'  tlioiii.  ami  yot  lio  Imasls  ol  r\|)|iinii^  ami 
)ia\inu  lodisrovoiod  l>ariin's  |!iiy.  Ilowovor,  in  )im- 
rorilin;;  down  tlio  wosloni  coasl,  and  tlio  woatlior  honi'^ 
louiZN  .  ho  lonnd  liiiiisoll'  nnawaios  noari-r  to  iho  slioio 
than  was  .siipposod,  and  |)orlia|»s  wished;  in  I'lni.  ho 
was  jnsi  at  tlio  iiioiitli  ol'  ihn  nnly  roniainiiiL:.  ami  hy 
I'lir  llio  laii:ost  and  niosi  roiimrUalilo,  as  well  as,  iVoiii  its 
|iosilioii,  tli(4  most  im|iorlaiit  sound  or  o|ionin^  of  any 
llial  had  liooii  soon  on  oithor  coast  :  this  was  what, 
r>aHiii  has  called  Sir  James  I jancastor's  Sound.  Thoro 
was  liore.  at  least,  no  ice  to  (diolxo  it  up;  mmo  in  tlio 
\icinily  ol' it  :  the  sonndiin;s  willionl  il  are  miiked  JOiK) 
lallionis  ;  Avithin  il,  fiiin  to  (i?  I  I'alhonis  :  no  a|)pe!iranco 
III'  any  hdllnm  was  hero  pretended  to  lia\o  lieeii  seen, 
and  alto<;etliei'  it  was  nllerly  iiiipossihie,  on  any  pretence, 
to  a\oid  enteriny  it  ;   and  the  ships  tlKM'et'urt'  stood  in. 

As  this  sound  or  hay  has  aH'ordod  the  means  of  pretty 
well  settling  ( 'onniiandei'  Koss's  repiitalioii  as  a  discuv- 
erer  or  explorer,  il  is  lair  to  ,i;ivo  liim  the  I'nII  heiielit  nl' 
liis  own  account  of  il  : 

"  DmiiiL'  this  ihiv  (^iOthef  \ii'.'iisl)  ncicli  iiilerest  w;is  r.v- 
«  itril  nil  hnjird  i)v  the  ap[)r;iraiice  nl    this  strait;   the  Lieiii'ral 

'  I'llluiiLitdii  li.id  till'  iiii|Mrliiiriii'i'  til  ('nil  Hatriii  .'ui  iiiipii>tiir,  but  nil  thut 
wiis  I'Vrr  known  ainl  {iiitilisiirtl  ol   I'l.itlin'M  iii-i-i)ViTit.'.-j  Irnvr  liren  \>Vo- 


I  I 


\0 


Mil  lit     \  it\  \<.r 


opinion.   lioWiVi  I      WM    tliit    it    w  .1  .    ii|il\     111)    mil  I        <   .i|il;iiii 


S,.l 


II  no     \\  111'   |M  .<!  I  111  1  1 


I  H  idiii  -  riiii'Miil.  w  ;i  '  ol  i'|Mliiiiii  lliit 
\\  o  woli'  oil  I  :illi.l-lol  SiniUil.  ;HIiI  lllll  llli  II'  V\i  lo  no  l|ii|«  -i 
ol  ;i  |vi-<-;|':o  iinlil  wo  •lioiilil  :iiii\o  il  t  niiil  hi  I  im  I  Sli  iil  .  In 
U'O  111'-  ow  n  \\  oiiU,  lllll  1'  w  ,1  1  '  no  mil  ii    ition  ol  ;•   |>  i  .■.;i>',o.'  '  nn 


(l>l>o;n  :mi 


MM 


,1    1  III  1 1  III .      no    il  iill   \\  oi'd  .      ;mi|     'no    liw  o 


Ironi  llio  noi  iliw  .     i 


r     1,1 


I  n  llio  111  '.I  |'l;ii  o.  il  in;i\    lio  oli'.oi  \  Oil.  I  li;il   I  tiillm  no\  of 

I'lllOIO.l    l.lllh  ;is|01    Souilil.   Illhl.   ll    IIIMV     llli'lololo    lio    |i|o 

suiuoil,  iio\o)  !'.;n  o  ;in\  m  oouiil  ol  il .  I'ho  ii'.i  nin^i  l>o 
iiltoi^ollioi  .  mill  I  !1M  iiol  |io  ollioiwi.o  lliiiii  !i  iiii'-'>l  ;ilo 
lUiMit.  <"!>|M:nn  Siihiiio  innilil  oli'-ono,  iiioi(>l\  w^  m  ImiI. 
tli;\i  no  nil  UMil  oi  .lull  \\  ooil  ;i|i|io;ii  oil.  \\  In.  Ii  Ko.'-.  Ii\ 
:\  '•tiMUiio  misiiiKo.  t;iiii  icil  lio  >\  !i  ;  i;,;r  ,.,  In  i-osmli 
for.  Miiil  coH'-lMnlU  Ki'pt  liilUiiU',  :il'oiil  ;  Iml  llio-.o  \\  Im 
Know  t'liplMin  S;il>iiu>.  iiinl  mo  in  (|ii;iinIoil  willt  Iii-j  I'loiit 
liilonls.  In--  lo\o  loi  --1  iiMit  o.  mill  tin-  ,  o;il  ni  |iiii'-iMt  o(  il. 
will  ho  slow  to  lu'liox'  mi\  tliiii",  ol  ilio  Kiiiil  In  Iiiim* 
proo(>otlo.l  Iroiu  limi.  Iliil  o\oii  woio  il  possililo  ln> 
slioul.l  limo  ,'ii\(Mi  ulloimtro  lo  mi  opinnni  loi  wlmli  lio 
h;i.i  no  );iouii(is.  us  no  liuiumi  Immii;;  ol  ;iii\  ciniiilrN. 
iUit'ionl  or  moi|<Mi\.  is  Unown  I'xoi  lo  linxo  oniiMoil  tliiJ 
soiiuil,  is  ll  nol  sin  prising  tliiit  ;iii  olli.  or  ol  llio  ii;ix\. 
inlnisii'.i  with  lln>  »  oiiinimiil  ol   mi  ovpoilil  ion  nl  ili^^rnv 

«M  \  .    sllOUlil     (|UOlo.    Ms     ll     \\  (>rO.    Ill     ills     own     jllslltlCilllOll. 

mill  bo  i^niiioil  l'\  llio  opinion  ol  nn  mlillorv  nlliooi.  w  Im 
porli;ips  w;is  at  soa  lor  lln>  liisi  iniio  '  W  liiil.  in  liict. 
ronlil  (":»piam  Sabnio  llion  Know  ol  oitlior  Lancasior 
Soiiiiil  or  (  "unibiMiaiul  Slrail.  oxi'opl,  as  In  lli(>  latloi. 
lliMt  iI  w  Ms  w  oil  Uiiow  n  lo  loaii  niil\  tn  a  parool  ol  islaiiils. 
aihi  thai  l'"o\'s  ("hamu'l.  Sinilliaiii|iloii  IsI.hkI.  llio  \\  ol 
oonu\  all  iiiusi  1m'  pass(<(i  liolnro  liio  roast  nl  \moiio!i 
roiilil  ho  ajipioat  lioii  l'\  that  roiilo  .'  \  ImioI  aoconnl 
ot  llit»  o\pt>tiit  ion.  b\  an  oliioor  (Mi!;auoil  in  it.  was  pnli 
lisiioii  in  a  luonlhlx  innrnal.  ami  is  pi  nnniiiiooil  h\  (  'ap 
lain  Salnno  li>  bo  "a  well  wiiltoii  ami.  wiiicli  is  iiinrn 
iiup(>rlanl.  a  taillilul  acttnmt  ol'  llio  prncooiliii;;s  nl"  lii(> 
«^\pi>ihliou."  In  tins  aoiounl.  so  praismi.  il  is  slaltMl, 
ainonc  i^iIum"  iiiatU'is  folalim:  1<'  l-anoasWM-  Soiiml,  tlial. 
"«wt>r_\  otihor  ami  man.  on  llio  instant,  as  it  wtMc.  nia(l«» 
\i]'>  lus  miml  that  ,''/..<  ?'.  .'/.v,'  /><  fhr  iii<r;li}r<  st  /),.'.v.m/.vw." 
Aiui  i;  isi  aJik^i.  "  1  tinnlv  bolicxo  tliat    o\or\  noaluro 


<  "M  M  \  N  Ml   li      h  i|l%      III  1  ,  1. 


II 


"1'  '         < '.ilMiiii, 

I         "|MI|lM||         ll,;,) 

•in. I  Siiiil  .  Ill 
I  |vri'j:|.;,.,'  '  11,1 
Mil     ■  n,.    ,.^^,■\\ 


I'fidin  itiMci- 

'It'll-    Im>     |I|  (. 
I  <'-t     IMII  ^1    l(i> 

<'l      nil'>'.|;||i> 
'l\     IH    !|    1,1,   (. 

nil   IJit'.«.  Ii\ 

'       to      '•I'ill  I    ll 
lhn-.i>     \\  In, 

III)  Ills  I'.ri'iif 

MIIMIlt    III     |(. 
"Ill     III     hiiM. 

|>IISS||||(.       ll,, 

"     W  III*   ll    |||> 

">    riuiiil  r\  . 

■lltlMl'.l    tliM 

I  III.-    Iliiw. 

II  <>t   ilivii  ii\ 
ll^llllr.llliili. 

'I>i<i'r.  who 
ml.  Ill  liit'l. 

I  jMllClslci- 

llu'    l;il((«i. 

I  111  I'^liiinls. 
.  Ilii<  \\(<|- 
'I  Viiicririi 
•  '!  iirriMiiil 
.  \\  .'i'-^  |iiili 
'I   l>y   (  '.'ij)- 

II  i-^i    iiinii* 
liys  III'  |||i< 

is   siiilt>il, 
"iiiiil.  iliiil. 

"Ml',   lll.'lilj^ 

k  Clout iiro 


"11    I'.'MI.I    Mlllh  l|i,ll,.,|    ll,,.    |.|,. ,,,,,.,•    Ml     vv  lill.i-    III)    i.mmIimiiI 

'•'•I""'  ''    '"    '•''    llH'Mih.    rllhri     |,,.ni    I  I .1,.,,!    ,,|     u,.^) 

I'l  II   sihii  r  J  III    llii<    I'm  ill,      " 

•'"I'   '"  I'ini  n  1,1  (    mmmmihmI.'I    |;,i..^'.4  niiiitilivi.  : 

"''^"""    ■'"'■'     nilJln.    Ill    ll„.    V,  Ml, I   I HI    In   ..I, ,11   ,      I    ih, ,,,,(,„,, 

"'^"'"   •'"   '^"l'   ^""'    I'"    •!'■•     \l'v  M„l.  ,    ..„,.,„I,.,„|,U    „  ,.  ,„ 

^'    •■'    ''"'"   '"'""•   '"'"    "''I'"!'     V     M     >l"     li.nl    VMM.,,.,,    .,,    ,|„. 

''■'"•••"   "'    •'"•    "'I-''    '-^     ' <'"■    '   "■•    111.'    vv:ilil.;     I. Ml    In   I,.,,.    | 

""'     "I '"'*■     ^'     'I" '      'I '     "'    ^.    M     ll.-M.,.^    ..I      ll ,„ 

I'Ms.   U,H    .'I...  mill    l.s     ||„.    |,„.  II,.,    |„,„,     ^^,,,,1,    ,     ,1^^^^    ^^^^^^_ 

"•'"  "   '"■'''   '"''  '■  "'   •M"mHM'...   I'M. •mini..   .In,  .  ,U    n,  i,...,   ||„. 

'"""""    "<     ""•  ;"l-'  Mlln.M     I,    M     ,,.,...,.„     ,„     Him    ,1,,.,, 

=  'l'l""';''     ''"I"'-'.     I     U.'l'    .l.li.M.MM.ll    , 1,1,    ,.    K     ,„    .,  I 

"•;'^  ','"•  ^^";'";^''■  '^'^"|^ mm.i  ,i„.,,. ;,  „„ 

^"  '       ""'"""'''I.      I      I I        ^V        ImHhIm.I      ;,,„|       .,.,,.,„s      I 

"""""^-  """■       ''■■''■      ll">^"V.    '.       Ml.    Ml  \|, ,,|,       ,,|| 

''"I"   '  """'r'^';"  n,..  ,.v,.M  liv    ll I..,,,,..,,,,,,.,,!,,,  „   ,,,,.. 

=.:.'.-MMl-.l    .•mil  ll...   VM.„||,.-,    i,,ni, I  ,|,„K.   I   ,1,,, ;„.  ,1 

'"  "•■""•   '"'I'"'    -1,1.  M. Ill    , , ,    I,,,, I ,,,   ,1^^^^^^ 

';V     '"•      ''"■    I'"'!"'"     "I     •',:,! ,„:,,    „.„ .,!.„,,,,,, , 

^' •     "'"■•    ""•      M"V.''II'I'.     In    M,..     ,„     1,1,     ,,„,     ,,|     .,,,|,,     ,,,     ,,„, 

.•■•.■'lu.nil     u..  I„M..  I.,  I,,,  |,;,|,  ,,,„   , „,  ,,,,  ,^_  

'"'"•      ""I     •■"     ''^'"     l''''^'     '.       Ih'     In,,,,.      ,,   ,,| ,,',,,■ 

'";'','"'  "-•/^'■";:m-"  m,.i|...,„,|      I  ,„„,„|,,|  ,,,,,,,,,  .^,,„,,,, 

*'"'    ''"","■'    '•"''    llllrix;,!,   1,1,1     I    |..„,„|    ,|„,    .,,„,|„  :,.,    ,„.,|    ,,.     . 

•"  ' '  7; "■■-'I. -"I  ' lull  U..IS.,  ,,,:„,  ,1,,,  „  ,:,, 

mi|'i:l'  In  ,ilii,.,  r      I  ;    '     I  ,    I 


I'!       .IMlj 


'"    I'K'lll.'-     III!     run  V's    |>IHIl(|.    |llll||,;,|  ll 

'"'■',' " " ^  '• ''"•  '"HI  iiiu  r.i. ,  1.1,1, „,...  (iin.r;  ■;  ^,.,'„',',' 

M.n(lnM..||,,„.),,,|„|,.,„„„„„,,,„^,„^„,, ,,„,,,„„,,„^,,, 

'  I'  ...i|H.vs,i,ii.  ll,  ,.,|,|„,K  ,i,„  ,,i,, I, „.„„„...  ,,„i ; 

''•"''"'-  "  '"'1''     lI'Ml    ll    m,n,  1.1.    r,„....,|   1,^    ,|„,.    ,„|„,   |.„,„„ 
"   i;"'^''"!^'"  """'I   ...;,    Ill   llii.   un.luiinl    1,1    ,!.••         \    I,,,,,,,:' 

••''"'  """;"^''  '"'I""  iii"i.uiiii„,iurivi.  ,1 i,„  |v„,.  i;,„| 

"'"    ^ ll'Hiiii,..    In    n.i,|,/,,..       |:„|    ,,.    ,.,„„|„„„    I,,,,,,,,. 

fMiii.'ls  liiiiii   Kiis^  ,,ii  (1||,.  ,„|,|   ,,|   ,1,,,  ^,,^.| 


M    ii:.ll    |'.'.<1    lu.iCtl-l     \„..-,Ml,,   u|„.„    I    ,,,,„,   ,,„    ,1,,,,    „. 
""Urr,  Il,i.,i.   u,.,..   s,.,,,..  I,,.,.,..  .,,    ,,.,1,.,,,,,,,    ,,„,    ,    |,|,',„ 

"■'V"       '"','^'""''       ""        ''"■        .■'|'I"''H-.IM...        ,,|        I,,,,.  I        ,„  „„        ;,|„      „| 

'     ""■';'•    ";•    "'""■■■'■"I    'I-    -.I..I,,    ul„.    v,;m    ,..|„.,,,.,|    ,„    ,,„ 
':Til  '     l'-^'<.''-|'M.-'l...nl,M  ..,„.„. I,,.,. :,|„„ 

;•;,";'■" ";'^'^ ;:.|.i'-Mn.MM.i,i„,,i, ,„  „„.  i.,.,„.„; 


1^ 


(     : 


i 


1 


.) 


n'  I   Ml      >  i  •  \   \  I  »•» 


nl\lM      it     i.'n()'l.<.U      il.'ll.il     )ii|      '(IliU     (.11     tllUlMt,     .      Mllll     I     ili.l 

t">.  (U      <M    till'  luiil    1    iiiiil  til.    J.i.tt.iin  ,1   ill     I,,,     t,  It  iiititii  n 

<    .  >  M  1 1 1    I    t  I    .  I      I    1 1    I  I  1 1      'I       1 1 1 .' 1 1  1 1  I    I  I  1 1  Kill)      ill...         I  I    I  I  I  I    1 1       I .  <  1 1    1 1 1  I ,    , I 

II '.   n       till     111  n  ill     (iiil      .   Ill  |i       'i|.  \  1    till      111.   111.   Ill    I    .|l  111 

ii\i       i.iil.ninH      .'(i,.         It'll.       ,|iliii.,i(       .iiiiiiiil.  r^ 

1.  n.lin.  til  111  I'll,  -iilf  >'\  til.  I.n  t..  ill..  ..ill.  I  I.,  till  .  II  til,. 
^1.  II  .  I  I  ip,  1.1  til.  ii.'i  til  »i  III.  I|  I  II  nil.  ,(  ill  I  ''  II  •;...),.,. 
^\  1  I  .  M,i,  I  in.  4  ill  |t  III  til.'  ...■Ill  1 1  u  111.  li  HI'  II  ml.  .1  iOm) 
^       ,      >iiii     I     1    ll.  I  .    I  •  li  III.      iii.iiiiii  nil       \>  111.  Ii    .  .  .  .|i...  .1    ill,. 

I  ,  ••  ii  1      I  M    ■»    II.  'I  1  ll    'III.  I      1  ml  1 1    ll  1 1 1  .  1i.  .11     II  .  1  I     nun.  .1    I    i ,  .|. .  i    u 

iM     .111  1111  .     'it'll  I    til,     S,  .  I  (I'll  1    1. .  til,'     \  .Inn  I    ill  I  I  III mil 

\\  ,     1    ,     -I  n.  I      n  1  HI  ll    t.  '1  III.  .1     1       I '  n  I.  '11      I  ■  i  v      i  .  'iii|  I,   1 .   1 1     i 

1.  ,  ,i  In  .  ,  Ml  11  ,111,  .)  I'  ni.'ii  1  |l  .1  III. I  I  I.  iiM.I,  ,1  ,,|| 
111,  .,.iii)i  In  I  1)1, ■  (  I  i).  ivr  ll  (inil  mi  til.  n.'iili  In  t  'iiin 
ti  1  nn.iii.i  \\  In,  ii  1  ■!  ll.  1.1  •  ni.l  I  li  ll  |i'  ni.  i  '  '  n  i  In  ii  il  (i  .  .in 
til,      111'  ll    !  in.i    ill    ilin    1  f  nil  1  111.'    n.'i  '  ll    .  ."I  ii.  i      n  Im  li    n   i! 

ll..     1  1  ..I    I    111  I  i   in  1 1  i,'    .'lit     \i    1      I   ,1,  ,   II  III',  t         1 11, 1   '1'  It     111    n  ,  I  I'll 
r\   I'  i|\     In    llii'    1  ititii,!,'    ,   .1  .   n    In      )'  illm    .  (     |     ni.    i    I.  i       'niiinl 
\    1.  !>,'    11,1    i),iiilil    tliu    it    \^    1      ill.         nn  ni,l    ,     'H    nli  i     it    'i    iiinif 

^•i  n.  II  K  ililn   ni^i  nil  >■  ii(    i  li.      ii  i  in  -i.  \    ..(    1 1.  ii     il  il.  ■   ini  i  i.  .itm 

r    ;    I    1    •< 


)l    >x  •»<;     iiii|i-i>.l      n    tnii'.t    1  ninn  1,   il'ln     in    tuiiin    n)     in  ill 
\-i,   \     in   Iviliin.   >\  .III  \\   I  'in    Iin   n  \  |i|.«iniil    niih    1>»    'ill  j  i|  in  '11111 
\\>u\   ti'  li:U  1'   t>i-iMi   1  il'i  nil    I'\      V  1 1  t  II     \  <    iiiii   I  i   mm  1 111  Hill  ml 
:)i  ,1   iiTix    mill's,   NxnliiMit   >>  Ini  1\   In-    himim    i  niilil   limn  vn) 

'■li.ll     iM     l\i''-'-\      \  '      »"        ",        (liMll    ill.'    •;i'l      Inl     III'     III    li'l 

i'\nii'  Ml")!  r\  iM|  1  111'  '  .  ■  ■  ,  I't  I  ,  'i"i  M-^l  i">  '>  nil  111!  I  III' I  n 
1','nir  ■  sr(>  >.  \ht<.  11I1I  nilil  !lMl>  1l!l\  ll  lint  '  '  !l  li'ilnn  ii(  ll  |i 
l'rt\Xi-i-n      1I10      <.|i,>ni      Mil,!      \;».   ■■  Ml     llin:      11      ilnplni  ilMn 

^Mll^U!_'^.  rtMii  1I  ni:i\  l-i'  1  iiii--ii1iM  n.l  m  iml  x^niili  llin 
>>'iilr  1.'  .",>>  nil  l.nii'.i  ,iii  tills  |<!»I1  ii(  llii»  mil  1  It  H  i<.  ni  In 
Vi'ir.-n  ■  t1i.>  ru  invi1ii  x  in>\  nl  Hniiin  -^  \^\\  iin.)  llin 
«.]\v  !'i'  1  ln»r1  ii(  l^-n  I'inil"  lln'  )Minn\i>  nl-nui  llin  'liip. 
fi  >,s'«.  I  ,',1  )-\  :\  wliiln  tislii'i.  ilm  .mi1\  mlii  m  nn  iliil, 
llir  volo  ^i^iS'i 'iiiM  ^  nt  •i-'Kim's  ^I  nnni  miiis  ;in,|  ilmiiMt 
Nsn;i''.  iiJ  tri\  v,-,'n  oniv  l-x  \]\  \  nw  i-  nuil  liiinns  llni.', 
lb('  livi.lm.i.:  ni.'in.  wliilo  nil  llii'  imIiim  imIiiims  \>i'in  mi 
;.'N  iMs.  ilu'ii  liinniM  .  wwA  u'."iM;tMi  ol  \\  l\;ii  \\  m-w  .v.i''ni',  nn, 
»ln.  1,  IV  nol  llir  li-^ntil  1  usIimu  in  .1  in:>n  nl  \\  11  \\  linii 
ll;.^  v'iup  IV  s^iViM).;  !»Nn\ii 

r.1.1  t.ii,i  ii>  v_,-i  ni;i  ,\i  \  'inirv-iiM  "-^iiiiiiil.  "  ll  ln'i  !iiui> 
p.Ntv«^*i\'  v)\  V  |\.ivs.  •  i.>  v.miil  iMii  nl  1I11S  il.'iin'.iM  niM 
1-i',^'      ,      w  '     ,        \\  ,'   \\  ,'  ■,-    r;-iilii\  nJ,  I'l'Mn-    \>  illnii   it    mI'iM  •» 


•  '  I'M  ■>»  \  • '  nt  (•    M  ii»  'f    I I 


'  '   M        I")  til  III  M    11 
'•'  I'     •"  tl   mJ,.,| 

>n,.in.  I.I    I     ,1  .,, 

'    '    'I      III!  I.  ,     , 

I't  I  'I  .  ,  II    Him 

t   ''m  « ;.  ..i  ,.,. 

'    nun.  .1     iH..| 
"I  .  Mp..  .1    tll.< 
MM.  ,1    (    I  ..I. ,   ,    ,, 
I  I.,     .  .,,,,1, 
"I  ''  ''  '*    .'.  .  II 

I        II. 1.1.    ,1      MM 

■  I  ill    I,,    t  ,,l,,, 
'    '  "    >l .  I    It  .  .Ill 

'  l<    1.1.    Il       u     I! 

'        '1       .11      ...     I  .    ,1 
'      1      I.     1  >.l||l|.| 

..ll    t      II     .)     Ill, I. if 
1.'    II'M   I/. •(till 


II  r     ii|     III  I'll 
l'\     'Jtllipil   •Mil. 
I'M.'     Ill)  M.ll  I'.l 

nl.|    Inn  r    .  ..i 
I. 'I    111'    n.M  It 

'Mil. I  I  lli'l  ,. 

I. 'I I >(    ll  i< 

I     . Ii'i il.ii  III. 1. 1 

>>  .'I  I  ll     ill,- 

I   ilM  IV   .VI    In 

!IM.|  til,. 

III  til,.      In|i_ 
i>n    ll.'.  I, 

in,  I    ill,.   I  .i.,.( 
iini,''<    I  li»i.'. 
"J    \\  I'l  i<    I'll 
i>i  L'.i'inj^  lilt. 
W  III     W  lirii 

I  I    1',',  :lllli> 

■  ImiI''i'I  iillvi 

liMI   It    ;il>,M  )< 


Ul 


,  /  ..  '. '1/  "nil  ■;  "  I  'll|it'llli  I'  '.I  I  ■,  till  I  >  '.|.)f|ilt  '  '•idiM"  lid)  |» 
"in      /'m  I  /  1/     nnl I  '  '  III!  I       I  l|.       |i,    I  ii.'l      1,1     I  III  '      .1 ,1 II  II  ,   ,  ,,ii'i 

•  ■ill  lii'iltfi  IHH  t(.iil  I  .1  ll  i  I  .11  I  ,  |iii(  |(  •  1 1  III  1 1  Imim  ( IMic  I, 
.1    li'i      I..  I  It    I  I    llc'l    iihiiU'iII  ,     I,-,  ll  lie  I  i|,    \v  I'  If  1 1|  I    '  I  ilii' i   i 

•III  I    \\  itlliilll    (lliiji     'till  lull    Im     Ml"    I'  '•  'i'l  I  ,    f'l  •  1    liMii     .   \\ 

li.l'l    llli'    •.illliD'i'        I  'III    it    I."    <iill>'l  lii'il'iil    »'ii|f.|l'('    ' 

III  till  1 1  ii.mr  \  I  .1 1  •!  Ill  I  I'l  '  ..  I  .  I  I  III  .  1 1  Ml  I  |l.  I'  I  (.'.(  Ill  f| 
111.  .  I  ill.  I  II.. I  l.(  llll.  lilll  ll  I. Ill  .ll  (III  ,  ,  I,,  II  I  I  .\  ,, 
I  I  11    I  ll     p..  ll     iiln'il   I    .1        .  iiiM      I  i.|i  I .. .     i      .  II    III  I M    I  III'  ll       llll  I 

III  Ml    I     I    I     I  III'       llll       I  I   .  1       I     ll        ll|  1       .|l       ill'  III  ,1  I  III  I  I        ,,|         I  '  ,     IM.fil       , 

I  nil  I  ,  mill  M  ll  ll  (,i  I'll  I'll  ii.  i|,  II 1 1' I  flidn  nil  ,  I'll,  /  |.,..|,.(( 
III     .'I'll  III..     I.'i.  I      1 1.    I      111.  'I    III     '  :,iiii|,|,    iiirt    I  IT  I    I  I,.      I"  I' I' I 

I  I  I  1    I         111       III-       I  1  1 1    I     I     .  I        I  I  I  1        Ml       llll'  ,1  ll  I,   I,  ,    ,   ,  .11  I  1,1 ,    I  )  I  y       , , 

H  li'ili  I         llll'    \  II  \     I'll   III  II  III    I    'llll   I  III    '     III'  1 1    1 1',   mil  I.   I  'iifi 

n  III  1. 1.     I 

I  I"     '".    'll.    I  1.  till  \     iit.iiiiti'i    ill    ■•  III,  ll    I,,      I,.,    I, .(,,.. I  ,,,,f 

"I        11     ' I    'III'  'I    111'!    ''iiiiti'l     III,. I    t.in    |,',    I    ll,,      \  I,   ,. 

"Ill'  I.   n  illi'iiil    ill.     I.    I    I    ,  ..iiiiiMii.ii  'ili'iii        |l||    I  ,ir  nil  mini 
l''iiM       ■I'liii'    I'l    I.'I     .      .li'i       II    li'ini    hiiM    .)    ill. Ill, I,.       '1,1    ,,| 
•I'Mi.lliin       lli'il     ll.      |.i '.li'ilil  ,     11,11,  II    ).i|    I',    I,,.     ,,     |i,    III,,,, 
I  ll  .11  .  .|    III      I  n  I II  i.i  1 1  III..  •  • 

^       I     In    '•    •   I     .  II    'I    f.'.i  I"  .il',.     il.'iil    ,,|     ll,,      1,.,^-    ,,,     ,,,),( 

"  ll"  ll    "    I  '   '    ■•■  I'l H In       "Mil    ,,|     \  I,    '.,1    'I,,,  I    1 1,,      |,,f 

"'     '■  I'll  Mill'  I,  ll.    ill'     '   'I"  'III I'l'  I    IM,    .  "iiiini'i'l,   ■'ii't   •(., 

lIl'li'      Mill      ll'        I. ...I., I      .11      ill..      |,,  ,    ,   ,    ,|,,,,,      ,,.,.,,     ,     ,,,,,,,.,     ,,|     I),,. 

MM    'I    lil"M   'll     I "I      III-        I     ■    '.     .   I.r|.  I,"    I,  ,    ,,.      ,:,,(,|,|,,   ,| 

■II"'     ''     '     I'         ''"        I'  .  'll"      1'1|'Im    ,       '.(      tin  ■.'ll,,',.,|l    :,     ),,,„, 

''"         "11"    "ll      'I I'  ll"    ll       "I'l"       I'.'l..,    ,|        Ml       1,1    .      I,\h,,        ,,t, 

'' 'I       'll     "•       III'        '    ll'l'  'I      Mill      I     I" ,,.,.,,,       (,,,      ,,,,.      ,,,,,, 

'      l|>lllllll''      III'-      I'l.    I    ■  '     III'    ll        I       I,-.       ,         . ill,     -,,!,.      .,|.,l,.,|^      .,._      (,_,      ,,. 

' I  I"      I  I"        'ill'     Mil.      ,1.     .1     ,1 ,,,,     ,,|    ^      I),,..,,         .     ,11      I,,.      .,.,,, 

''\         111     |.,    .    I|.,ll  l!.|l        ,1        ,,,.,.,        ,,,,1       I,,,       .,,,,,.,.     I,,       |,,,,,,|       ,,,,1        ,||,, 

I'll''     IM      Ml',       l.lli.    "ll      Ml- I,.  I,,,     I,     .,,,        ,,,,,,(,,)      I,,     ,1,,.     |„, 

■     " I"    "I      ll"-      "    ■■'  I-  .     ••    111' I.    '11     I      'MM     llll'    '    ',    'I      h,     f,   ,   /     (,   ,,l,/   ,, 

'  "     iH.   nil,,,,    I,,   ll,,     ,  ,,,,,  ,,,,.     ,,,,,|    ,.,    I,,     ,,,,,,1,  ,(    1,^    ,,,,  ,^^  ,     ^^^,| 

■''      "     '"     ''"        fll   '      •-'     ll"    ll     I'    '    Ml.     11.  I  11,'-     (,,     I', '.I-      ),,,      II,,.     ,,,,,   Ij, 

•''•■'I"""'"'        V  Mill    I'    -1,    ,11    ,     I I,.,         |,         ill,        I,.,,   ll,    ..    ,-^t     |,,',.M. 

'•     ■'■         l' '      'III'     "•'.   '     Ml-,         ,'    ',,,,!     ,1,     ,.,,,.     ,,|      |.,l,|,,,|,.  \^     ,1      ,.^„^ 

'""^       I '    ■!       'Ill'      I M   "     111      ,     V    |.    I,    ,1       M,      ll,l  I  nil-  I,      '//I,,/    i,       ,.,.,. 

•'■"'    Pl-I    "^|il""'L    "I     I"     llll'    ii'iill.    -     ,,.|    ,,l     ,1^    ,1    ,,',(.,,:,|i  /    (,,| 

'"^^"'      'I'l'       I         I I'l     I I'l I      Ml,       '     II      -',11      1,1      tl,,.      „',,.>, 

^^    '"I    "'      'll"    ■    Ml"    Ml.     ".   ill'    I,     I,    ,,  I     I,,    ,,,.:,,    ,-,,,(■,,),    .,l|.^    „^.,    ,„   ,1 

'"    •">!  ■' I     III    I',     llll    I'    I""    .     ll'l    :     11,1'    I        •     1        ,,','     'I,,-     pi   ,,,.     I,, 

I'l'l   "    S'li'    IM    I'lli   IM   /     .1    |i  ,      :m;"    ,    l,,||     ||,.,l     II,.    ,,,     •,,.,.,    fi   -,</,',     U, 


i 


44 


ARCTIC    VOYAGES. 


(•X|)rct  it  woiilil  lie  t'liuiiil  liiiMliiT  south.  Mv  (inliTs.  '  to  st;nul 
well  to  till'  iiorlli,"  li;i(l  alifjidv  hern  liilly  obrycd.  .iiul  no 
ciinfiit  liiiil  licni  loiiiiil  ;  ami  it  '  a  cuiTcnt  ot'  -(iiiii'  lorcf'  did 
«'.\i>t,  as  iVoiii  tlif  '  l»c>t  aiitlioiiiir^'  we  liad  reason  to  Ixlii'vc 
was  tlif  tiict,  it  could  in-  mosnIu'ic  Imt  to  llic  soiitliward  of 
till-  lalitiidt'.  \s,  ill  iiiv  iii>1ni(lioiis,  I  am  also  dirrctrd  'to 
l<'a\<'  the  ict'  alioiit  tlic  l.dli  or  -Jdili  of  So|)tfiiil)ci'.  or.  at  lat- 
ot.  tilt'  1st  oi' (  ((toiler, "  1  had  oiilv  one  inoiith  left  'or  in\-  op- 
er.'tion-.  in  which  inoiidi  the  niu'lits  are  Ioult,  and.  accordiiiLT 
to  a  fair  caliiilatioii.  not  more  than  two  days'  clear  wealher 
ont  ol'.-e'-eii  could  lie  expected.  It  mav,  therefore,  with  pio- 
jirielN  he  staled  that  I  had  onlv  eiuht  da\s  reinainiiiu'  to  ex- 
plore the  remainder  of  I'-atlin's  liax  .  a  distance  of  aliove  four 
linndred  miles.  Of  this  sjiace  iiearlv  two  hniidred  miles  had 
ne\ei-  I n  examined  ;  a  rani:e  inchidiiiL.'  the  >iipposed  place 

•  if  the  di-coiitinnitv  of  the  coiitiiient.  and  that  lo  which  my 
attention  had  lieen  particularly  called,  and  where  the  iniairi- 
jiars'  current,  which  was  to  he  my  Lrnide.  was  to  he  expell- 
ed.     It  is,  pi'ihaps,  uiiiieces>ary  to  add  thai,  under  these  cir- 

•  •iimslaiues.  i  was  anxious  to  proceed  lo  the  spot  where  it. 
mii>t  he  e\i(h'iit  I  had  the  lii'>|  chance  of  >ucce-s.  \i'\  niv 
nnxietv.  on  thi.'  other  hand,  t<i  lea\<'  no  part  of  the  coa>l  un- 
explored, even  alter  all  lio|ies  of  a  jiassaue  were  uiveii  up, 
delerniined  me  to  pei>evere  a>  I  did.  notwithstanding'  there 
was  no  ciirreiit.  a  material  de-r('a>e  in  the  temperalure  ot 
the  sea.  and  no  drill-wnod,  or  oilier  indic.alion  of  ji  pas-n-,., 
iiMtil  1  actiiallv  s,iw  the  harrier  of  liii;h  mounlains,  ;ii;d  the 
coiitiiiuilv  of  ice,  which  put  the  (jue>!ion  at  re>l.  'i'hat  !  did 
so  per>e\ere  hecaiiie  atlerwaiij  a  xmrce  of  i.'reat  >ati>ta(iioii, 
as  I  w  as  tlirlunat*'  eiioiiLdi  to  succeed  also  in  explorim:  e\crv 
part  of  the  c(i;ist  to  llie  xiiithward  lo  which  ni\  alleniioii  was 
to  he  directed.  :tnA  where  I  was  li'd  to  expect  thai  the  cur- 
rent was  to  he  iiiiind.  This  was  a  much  more  es>eiilial  part 
<il  mv  diilv  than  the  making'  <»l'  mai:nelical  oli.<ei\ations, 
which  was  the  only  inducement  still  remaining;  to  limjer  in 
ih.at  daiiL'eroU'^  hay,  w  here  much  lime  iniuht  ha\e  heen  \sa  -1- 
ed  in  atleni|ilinL'  to  land.  perhap>  w  ilhoiil  Micie>s.  or,  al  anv 
nle.  wiihoiil  altainiiii.'  anv  adeipiale  n-^ulls.  .\I\  opinions 
were  mentioned  to  several  ot'  the  ollicers  after  I  had  ,leler- 
uiined  to  proceed  to  the  >outliward,  and  al>;i  to  Captain  Sa- 
liine.  who  repeated  on  e\erv  occasion  that  there  was  no  /n- 
fiirt//in„  i)\'  n  pas^aje."" — !'.   i;iv)-lii]. 

Tliis  can  only  lir  lookeij  upon  as  ii  jiitiiihle  cxciist'  lor 
)'iniiiiiii;  iiway  liitine.  and  is  a  iimsf  cluiiisy  pcrvci'- 
sinii  ot"  liis  ilistl'Uctiolis.  tlie  ohviuiis  iiieaiiiDif  ot"  wliicll 
hv  liiis  not  only  iiiiscoiiceiveil.  hul  misiiuoled.      A  spe- 


f 


■r.^.  '  In  >l;iiul 
\i'<l.  ;iii(l  no 
ic  tofcc'  <|l(l 
111  to  hclii'NC 
lUtll\Sill«l    of 

(lirt'cli'tl  *  lo 
:'r,  ol".  ill  l;it- 
I't  'or  my  <<\\- 
il.  iiccordiii:^ 
r:ir  wfiillioc 
IC.  with  |iro- 
liiiiiiLT  to  ex- 
it' iiliov  f  tour 
m1  inilfs  liiiii 

)|)OSI'(l    |)1,U(! 

o  wlilcli  my 
■('  tlif  imiiL'i- 
t  lie  t'X|>('it- 
ry  llit'so  cir- 
lot  wiicrc  it 
-<.  \('t  mv 
lit'  coast  U!i- 

•(•     L'ivfll    l|[). 

iiidiii:.'   llif|-(^ 

l|ICI'llllll'C     ol 

t'  a   |pa--ii:^c, 

lis,  aiiil   till! 

'I'hat   !  ilu\ 

sati.-laclioii, 

oriiiu'  r\crv 

ti'iilimi  \\  as 

lat    till'  ciii'- 

-M'lilial   |iait 

li-fivat  ions, 

to  liiiL:!'!'  ill 

liccii  \sa-t- 

s.  or,  at  any 

s    ojiinioiis 

liail  ,lrlrr- 

aptaiii  Sa- 

was  no  ni- 

'xciisc  lor 

y    i»rrv('f- 

{)['  which 

.      A  spc- 


COMMANDKR    JOHN     Ho.-S. 


J-) 


rics  of  iiit'iitiiatinii.  with  regard  to  ciiiTt'tifs.  njipciirs  to 
hiivt"  st'i/.('(i  oil  hi*;  miml  :  ho  is  t'orcvcr  hniitiiii:  foi-.  luit 
never  <:ets  scent  ol",  a  current.  The  liords  of  the  Ad- 
niiralt\-  liad  iiiertlv  siiii^'csted  tliat  if  he  should  ineet 
with  a  ciirfeiit.  which.  ••  t'roiii  the  l)e>.t  intoriiiiitioir"  (not 
i! ufl/cri/ii  >^.  iis  he  (juotes)  ••  we  lia\e  lieen  iihje  to  oli- 
tiiiii.  runs  tVoni  the  northward  toward  the  npijer  part  ot" 
()avis's  Strait."      And  a'^aiii.  ••  In  passin-j  tip  the  strait" 

("f'   /)(/,■•/>).    "it"  slirll    1/    riirriiif    shnlllil    1)1     i//sriiri  ri  i/,    it 

will  lie  ot'  the  i;reatesi  iin|)ortaiice  to  yon,  as  leadiiii:  yoii 
direct  to  the  opening  hy  which  it  may  he  supposed  to 
pa^s  frotri  the  Arctic  Sea  into  I>a\is's  Strait."  .\i:ain, 
>•  ir  it  shoiihl  come  tfom  the  northwest  or  west,  it  will 
prove  tilt'  Ix'st  i^niile  yon  can  follow  to  lead  yon  to  tin' 
di-co\ery  of  which  you  are  in  search."'  His  failure  in 
the  discovery  of  tlii-^  mn/ hi 'ui ri/  rurrrnf  is  so  far  a  re- 
tlectioii  on  his  sagacity,  as  e\ery  naviiiator.  hotli  hefort^ 
and  alter  his  time,  who  has  enlereil  |)avis"s  Strait  luis 
expciielK'ed  ;i  cui'rtMit  ot"  coiisiderahle  force  vetting  do\\  n 
that  >trait  :  and  it  is  now  known  that  the  water  of  the 
Polar  Sea  |)asses  throimh  several  channels,  and  down 
the  Sea  <»f  Spit/liei'::en  into  the   Atlantic. 

(Ml  takiim  leave  of  Lancaster  Sound  on  the  .".Nt  of 
Aiii:n-1,  and  procetMliiiq;  liomcwiird  alone  the  same  coast, 
the  following  <lay  IJoss  seiit  a  hoat  on  >hore,  in  a  >nial[ 
liav  near  ("ape  IJyani  Martin,  with  orders  "to  take  pos- 
Ncs^-ioii  of  the  ciMintry.  in  the  name  and  on  hehalf  of" 
his  liritannic  majesty."  with  the  nsiial  silly  ceremonv 
— tilt'  more  silly  when  the  oliject  is  worthless,  as  in  the 
present  case  — a  harren.  nninhaiiited  country,  covereil 
Avith  ice  and  snow,  ihe  only  suhjects  of  his  inaje<t\.  in 
this  portion  of  his  iie\\  ly-ac(piire(|  (hnninions.  consistiiuf 
ol  lialf-star\ed  hears,  dee|-.  t"o\es.  white  hares,  and  sncll 
other  creatures  as  arc  commonly  met  with  in  thesn 
regions  ot'  the  ulohe.  Lieutenant  I'arry  ha<l  command 
of  the  shore  party,  and  ohtamed  what  are  said  to  ho 
"some  \  ainaltle  >|)eciinens.  and  the  officers  of  hoi  h  ships 
were  e(|iially  acti\e  ami  /eiilon«.."  The  whole  of  this 
coast,  that  is  to  >ay .  from  latit  iide  T,".'  :!T '  to  latitude  (l-J  ' 
.')]  .  down  to  ( ■|iiiilierland  Strait,  is  peopled  ahuiidaiitiv 
oil  tho  chart  with  ^reat  hut  iiiiproliiic  names,  chieily 
■   Ailiuiniltv  Iiir'truitiuii- 


\ 


i 


I 


u\ 


Al!«    lit       \  0\    \».I,S. 


iVoin  ,' '.'(iIImiuI  ;  mill,  iinioii!^  lln>  rr^l.  tln'  Icinlni  v  i*^  <li 
\iili'il  ml. I  1)  (  (Ui|i|(>  III  Send  li  rniiiilicM.  I'IimI  In-  iIhI 
liol  nlil.iiil  "  ;i  |)i'llcrl  ;',ci  i^i  Jiphn  ;i|  '.|||\<'\  nl  tlil'-i  <  nil  .1 
\\;is "  (if.  lie  ^ax  ■•)  "  nl  tlic  It-'.-^  iiiipiti  I  iiih  r.  Iioiii  lis  iint 
hciiiv.  lln'  in:im  nhici  I  o|  lhi<  i'\|ti>ilit  inii."  \  Imai.  linu 
<'\rr.  \\  iis  iMu  i>  111. Ill'  siMil  Iti  talvi-  |ti>'. .(".  inn  nl  n  Miiall 
i^laml.  \\  III.  li  was  nanii'.l  \i;iins">  Mniniiiiciil  ;  Mini  :i 
lail^c  iiclii'ii;  lii'ini;  seen  almnl  |li(<  ili-lainn  nl  srvnii 
Ira^iU's  liiuii  tln>  said  island,  I  .ii'iilnnaiil  raii\.  Mi. 
K  OS  s.  a  I  111  Ml.  r>irdinaii.  \\  il  li  a  pai  I  \  .  w  m  <>  dis|)al<  lii'd 
In  iiialvt'  nli'-iMx  at  iniis  nl  il  and  ii|inii  it.  Ila\in.';  landnd 
^il  il  nia\  !>(>  so  <  allnd)  \\  Il  li  sniiin  dillii  nil  \  ,  I  lii'\  asi nnl 
«'d  lliis  iccImtc  Iniind  till'  ln|i  llal.  and  a  lai^n  wliiln 
I'l  ai  111  5|innl  |ins-,(>ss|nll.  \\  lin.  nnl  d.  Minns  In  I'lli^^ll^c 
llin  in\ad('l>J.  i|iii<'ll\  \\  alUi'd  nli  In  |li<-  n|i|)nsili>  sidn. 
mid  j;a\  I'  II  I'IiiiIjM-  inln  llm  sn:i  n\  i  r  a  inci  i|M(  n  tills  tret 
lll;:h.  I'ailN  '.('liiMti'd  that  lir  Iniiiid  this  iinlinii;  In  lie 
tniii  tliniisand  lUU'  liiiiidifd  and  si\l\  nine  \  aids  IniiL',. 
tlin't'  llinusaii.i  (■ii;lil  liimdrcd  and  si\|\  mnn  \aids 
lil'nad.  and  lillx  mii'  li'ft  lii;di.  a:;rniiiid  in  sinI\  niin 
tatlinins,  and  llial  it   had  iiinn  niii<(|iial  snlrs. 

«  >n    I  hi-    !  vt    nl    Oct  ohm.  w  linii   in  latilndi'  (I .'  '  .M  '.  iin 
land  to  till'  wrsiward  hniiiL;  m   si^lii.  ( 'niiiiiiandrr  IJnss 
lia.l  nn  dnnitt  that  tin'  npi'iiiiii;  was  (  'iimhcrliind  Sliail 
that  sliail  \\  hii  II  almir.  nl  all  nlliri  >  nn  this  inast,  allnnl 
(>d    lii>|>rs    nl    a    pa'-'-aui'.     "  IliiwrMM."  tlii'    cnuiiiiaiidiM 
sax  s.  "We  I  iii'^s,-.!  thi"  «Mit  raiin'  nl  (  'iniihni  land  St  i  ail, 
mid    sIi'tMfd    snlilli   snutlmilst   ;"    llial     Is.   wn    I  111  lli'd    mil 
hai  !\s   upmi   It.  Irll   it    iiiiinnli'>l  ml,  and  stni'ind  diinrt   Im 
l-.n^land  :    and  (   apt.iii!   Sahmn  ^a\i'   nn   s|^||.  no   mdira 
linn   iihmit    mirinnts  and  diitt   wond.  ttiid  sw  idl  Irnm    the 
Ui'i  tliw  .ird  ;*    l)i:t    l\.>ss   dm-s    .jxc  a  masnii.  and  a  siilli- 
<'imil   mil',  had  hi>  nnl    spmlml   it   h\    a  tntal  luisi unsi  rm  - 
tion.  as  usual,  nl  Ins  instinct  inns,      jlc  s;i\s.  "   Vs  the   1  si, 
(^t  C  ><l«>l>i'r  \\  as  till'  Latest  |»fiind  w  hu  h.  h\   iii\    iiisIiik 
tioiis,   I  \N  as   nllnw  I'll   to  coutniiio   on  this   service.   I  ua.s 
not    ;mllioii/.ed  to  |)roceed   up  this   slr.ait  to  e\|i|o|-e  it." 
riu'    leal   ilril't.  intention,   and   meaning'    ol"  the    insiriic- 


.'  \\  iilunil  ;:'.\  .JU  '1  .iirci't  rmilra.lii'ti.'n  t.>  ("oiniiiMiiiIt  r  luiss'-i  f-tiitr- 
nii'tit  ri  CMr.i.ii.;  r.ii'tiiii  SiSaio's  i>iinii.iii  iM'  I.ui.  :i--li'r  Suiiml.  it  w  ;h 
tl'.Michl  l>rtt)T  to  l.-.iM-  ihiit  t.i  ('..iit.uii  S.iS.au'  \\\u\-*f  li,  In  dcisl  w  itll  u.s  lui 

I)r,,;ii1  Itiillk  I'l-ci'.'V. 


(oMM  W'lUlI      Ktiiv     llM  1-1. 


17 


iiildi  V   \<  ill 
riuit   ho  iImI 

<>l    tlii'^  <  (iii'.i 
li  oni  Its  Mill 

\    liiilll,  IliiW 

in  III  II  Miiall 
niMil  ;  Mini  ;i 
III'    ol     sr\  (Ml 

I'llMV.     Ml 

t'  lll>l>lll(  lll-ll 
l;i\  in;;  Inii'li'il 
llii'N    ;isi  I'lnl 

liiim'  \\  lull' 
1^  In  I'li^iiM' 
|»|iii'^i1('  sjili', 
lit  1'  tlllN  tr<( 
ici'lii'i  ^  In  Im< 
'    \  ;inU    lniii_'. 

liilin  \  iinl-i 
111     M\l_\    oiii< 

>    (i'.'  "    .M    .    Mil 
IIMMilcr    IJnss 

liiMil  Si liiit 

i'n:|s;|,  allni  il 
(-nuiiniiniliM 

'iliiml  SliMit, 
tiiiiiril  mil 
i|  liiift  t   Im 

I,    Ml)     IImIk  !( 

I'll  linni  lli(« 
anil  a  siilli- 
niscoii'^l  iiH- 
•'  \s  iln>  Ui, 
ni\    iiisiriK 

l\  ICC.    I    w  JIS 

c\|)|nrc  il.*' 

till'      lllsllllc 

i(  I  !;..•.-.•<  ..ti.f.'- 

SlUIMci.    it     W.H 

ilr.il  With  iia  lio 


t(i)M-«   inc.  lliiit,  iillcr    i'.i^Hi;',    n|i   nil   imtlicf   ■^cai-cli   fur   ii 

lllM•^:l^c,   IC<     lie     llll'l    niiW    iliini>.    lie    W  ICi    llMt    In    trnilllM    III 
Unix's    >'//(///    '-n    liinu    II'    In     lie    r  illli'lll    in     il;-'     Ire,    iiIkI 

nlillL^cil    In    UIMlei'    nil    llll\     |ia(t     n|     the    ci^tciil    culisl     iil 
\mciica    ni    I  he  w  c4lciM  cmimI    III   (»|i|  <  1 1  cen'anil,   Iml   In 

j,,H,.    till'    ICC    nil     the      'Hill     n|     Sc|  il  ell  lh.   I     nl     the    Nl    ii| 

(    t,    ll.l.CI   .' 

\\  llllnlll  CIlliMIII",  inlii  llll\  ilelail  111  M  iclllllli  (ili^civa- 
tliilM  inailc  nil  lIlM  \n\li:',e,  llllil  ciijlci  linii'i  |ii|  a<lilin."  In 
llic  iiallllill  hislniy  nl  ;',e  Aiclic  icinmiM,  |||4<  ^csciiil 
ll|i|icMi||CCS,  ailinlllll  lie  In  ii|iu'ill<l  nl  nlie  hllll'lic<|  niiil 
|nll\  |l:ii'.c~4.  will  llllnlll  llll  lll<<  I  lllnl  1 1  Ml  I  |i  HI  •'iillicil,  iiMi| 
\\lllrh,     tllnllull     MMiiMiT     CMnll;'ll,    cnl  l^li  |e  I  I  IIL',     the     Very 

liiMilcii  ami  i'c-.|i  iclcil  iiicaim  allnnlcil  h\  hmiN  Inr  the 
iillaiiiiiiciil  nl  il,  ili'-iilax  s  a cniisiilciiilile  '■■haie  (it  Inlciil, 
IlllClllinii.  liMii  ili(hlMliy  hy  the  '.cvciiil  ic-.|iccli\e  ulliccix 
nl  linlll  shl|t-:,  wlln  have  i;ivcll  lull  |»rnn|  Imw  IIIlK  h  Mini  e 
Wmilil  have  hceil  liccnm|ilishc(|  liml  ninie  Iici|||cmI  n|»- 
|ini  I  Miiilics  liecM  allnnlcil  tn  ihcMi.  The  mnni  s  nl  itiili 
\|i|lial  eli^cl  \  cl'<  ailil  cnllcctiil'i  ate  lllwilN'^  ;.'IVC||  h\  ihe 
cniiiiMaiiiliiii;  nllicci-  nl  c\|icililinii4  nl  IIiih  liatnic  ;  ihiil 
nl   Kns-^  Inriic^  an  cxcc|i|  inti. 

(  niiiiMaiMlci'  .Inhii  Hn>s  was  |ii°niiinl  c(|  In  llie  rank  nl 
(  ii|itaiii  III  I  )cceiMhci-,  I  "^  I  H,  nil  |iiiyiiiL;  nil  I  he  ships  ;  and, 
Niic^iilar  ciiniiL^h,  tin  nihcr  nlliccr  ii|i|icars  to  have  Ihcii 
)i|nlMntci|,  Mill  even  I'ari'V,  wlln  cniMMiail'Icil  the  scciitid 
nIii|i.  ami  w  hn  was  tint  niily  siillcrcil  tn  rcMiaiii  a  lieii- 
Icnaiil.  hill  was  sciil  mil  the  rnllnwini;  year,  with  twn 
sliijis  iiMilcr  his  cniiiiiiami,  mi  a  siiiiilar  c\|icilil  imi,  stijl 
as  licMtcMaiil.  Willi  iiist riiclimis  a<l<he-'~c(|  tn  '•  IjicMtcii- 
aiif  William   I'.iluanI   Tarry  ,  cmniMamliML'."' 

.\tlinM'4  the  little  irrc'_;il||i  ill  ics  nl'  (  'nliiliia  inlei'  IJnss, 
it  can  tint  escape  iintice  that  he  aildrcsscs  all  his  letti-rs 
iiml  nrilcrs  issiicil  (|llrlll^  the  \(»\a::e,  iiinl  iiiiiiecessai  ily 
prilllcij  ill  his  linn|>,  as  Irnin  .Inhli  l!nss,  nijihnn  nl'  the 
Uiilicllii.  Ills  prniiintinii  tnthat  raiiU  mi  Iih  return  was 
easily  an|liircil.  heiiit;  nhlailicil  li\-  a  lew  liinnths'  vnv- 
fi^c  nl'  picasiirc  rniMiil  ihe  shores  nl"  Mavis's  Strait  ami 
Ualliii's  Hay,  which  had  hecii  pcrrnriHcd  i  eiitiirics  iiL-n, 
and  sniiicwhal  lielicr,  in  liltle  ships  nl'  thirty  In  litly 
tni)s.  jr  IS  II  vnya^e  which  any  two  nfllin  \(i(;lil  ( '|u!i 
■    A.liniinHv  lii,«tiiMtiiiii-' 


\\ 


■r 


J 


■iH 


AIUTIC    VOYAfii:;<. 


(•lull,  iiciitlt'iiicii  siidiciciitly  liiiili-spinttMl  t(i  iMiucrtakc! 
to  solvr  tliiit  iiiiti(»ii!il  (|ii('stiuii,  Jiiid  |)r(i\('  the  jiccmucv 
of  (lid  IJiirlriiili,  sind  llliis  rciiiovc  n  /i/n!  iVdiii  tlir  i:cntr|-;i- 
])hy  (it  .Ndrtlicni  Kiirdpc,  liir  ii  pint  (if  tluit  divisidii  ol" 
the  iiliilic  ( i  rci'iilitiid  is  now  iisriTtiiiiicd  to  lie.  'riicctf 
is  niithiiii:  to  Ix-  npprcliciidcd  tVorn  the  severity  of  the 
tcniperiil  lire.  Diiriiiu  the  th^e^^  or  tone  iiioiiths  that 
the  ships  ot'the  |)resent  voviu^e  weie  in  the  Aictic  sens, 
the  tliernionieter  never  fell  iielow  'Jii',  ':  the  iicneraj 
iivei'ai:*' \V!is  l)et\ve«Mi  .'i')"  and  .'57  :  no  deaths  took  pla('(  , 
and  scarcely  a  day's  illne-.s.  I*arry.  Iiy  anticipation, 
donlits  not  that  a  ship,  provided  nitli  sufficient  food, 
\\arni  clothinir.  iitid  fuel.  ••  niiirht  winter  in  the  hiiihesf 
liititiideswe  hav(>  heeti  in  without  snlferin^  niaterially 
eilUi-r  from  cold  or  disease."'  He  very  soon  proved  it, 
lo  lie  so. 

In  faUiiiu  leave  of  IJo-;s,  it  may  he  stated  that  the  oli- 
ser\atioMs  uaide  on  his  sti'aniie  conduct  have  relation 
only  to  his  untitness  for  c(indnctinij  the  voyii<^fe  of  dis- 
coverv.  wluMC  science  and  acciu'acy  were  indispeiisahh*. 
In  practical  seamanship  it  is  understood  and  admitted 
that  he  is  sufficiently  W(dl  skilled,  as  may  lie  infern'd 
from  Sir  (ieori;e  1  lope's  recomuu-ndation,  as  well  as 
from  th(>  natui'(»  of  his  early  and  various  services  in 
ships  ol'  war  in  the  IJaltic.  in  merchant  sliips,  an(.l  in 
ships  traditic  to  tlie  Mast  lndi(>s. 


11(1  (luring  tlint 
Hiiiiiis  Smitii's 
Mwisc,  (,t"  Old 
I'llx'i-s   (»f  that 

f<>   iiiHlcrtfikc! 

tlic  iicciiiucv 
III  tlir  ir('(»;rra- 
!it   division  of 
"  !>('.      Tlicro 
!'Vority  of  fla^ 
■  iiionflis   tliar, 
('  Aictic  sens, 
:   tlici   general 
tlis  took  placf  , 
'  »iifici|)ation, 
ifficioMf   food, 
n  the  highest 
iiig  I  liar  e  rial  ly 
t)(Hi  proved  it, 

1  tliaf  the  of»- 
have  relation 
)yage  of  dis- 
ii'iispensahle. 
find  admitted 
'  Ix'  inferred 
i<  ii^  well  as 
•*  servic(>s  in 
■<liij>s.  and  in 


CAPTAIN'    DAVID    ni'CIIAV. 

CllArTKIl  ill. 
TMPTAIN    DAVID   BICJIAN. 

JHIH. 


49 


A  V, 


[,•'/, tor  oj  Ihsrnrrrii  fnirfir,]  fh,:  North  Poir,  prrformr,!  in 
/as  Maj,sfii\s  ships  Dnrntkra  ami  Tnnf,  itmlrr  Ihr  f\„n- 
n,>ia,l  of  Cpfain  David  Jir.  has.  ];il;;.  y,,  „./,„./,  ,.,  „,/,/. 
'•'/  „  Sinnm,ir;i  o(  ull  thr  cnrln  ,ill,mpls  to  rrarh  thr  P„r,/ir 
I'll  <ra,,  of  the  Pol,.  I\,,  Captam  V.  W .  Bkkchkv,  o,n'',>f 
t/ir  Lni/fi'/it/ii/s  of  thr   K.rprditioii . 

'Vnv.  two  ships  appropriated  to  this  service  were  tlio 
J)<»iothea  and  tlie  'rr.Mit,  commanded,  oflicered,  and 
manned  as  undei-  : 


lldlUnilKA. 

It.A  ill  I'.iichiiii,  ( 'iiptain. 

Artiiiir  .Moi-rll,   Lirutriiimr. 

.Idiiii  |)iikr,  Sur_"'iiii. 

John  JmiiMiii,  Purser. 

(ii  ur^c  l'i>lii'r,  A.'lruiKiiui'r. 

('li:irlrs  I'aliiicr.  A(liiiir;iltv  Miitr. 

Will.  .1.  Di'mIv,  (Ii).    ■     ,i,,. 

Will.  (i.  iiorliuiii,  A.-.-i.<t.  Siir^'. 

Cyrus  Wakfliiiiii.  Cl.rk. 

IVt.r  lirucr,  (Ji-r.  ul,u)(l  Mii.stir. 

(ii(ir,'c  Crawl,, rd,  .in.     .Mi,I.'. 

'I'lioiua.-i  tJcliruti,  CarpcuttT. 
I-^'   Olli.rr.--. 
4'l  .■^raiiirij  an.l  >ririnr.s. 

5.»  'I'otal  coiiijiliiui  rit. 


TnKNT. 
•lolii;    Franklin,    l.ir'Utcnaiit    nil, I 

(  'oiiliiiauili  r. 
I'li'ilcrii'  lii  ccliry.   I.ii'Ut.iiailt. 
William  IJarntt.  riirstr. 
AiiJnw  li,i,|,  Admiralty  Mat.'. 
<ir,.r-,'  lia.-k,  ,lu.  do. 

■\\>\.  (Jiliili.in,  .\s-ir-t.  Surir. 
\N'iiliam  ('a.-tcll,  Cl.rk. 

(icor-r  Fitr,  (MTclllanil  Ma.'lfT. 

I       'iror..:!'  Kiriiy,      d.,.         .Mate 

.lamr.<  liijwdrn.  Carin  ntrr. 
10  OtHi-.rs. 

*JH  Sfaiinii  aiiil  MariiK;.-!. 
'■it*  'i'otal  fuiiij]!riiii'nt. 


(,  Ai'TAiN   David  J!i(  m.vn  was  an  active  and  enternri- 
.sing  olticer.  who  for  .several  years  had  heen  accustomed 
to  the  naviirafion  of  the  icy  seas  in  the   neighhorhood  of 
i>ewloiin,ilaii.i.  and  r..ceived  his  promotion  to  tlie  rank 
ol  coininaniler  in  1,-1(1,  for  hi.s  /.eal  and  g.md  conduct  on 
that  station.      ll,>  also  made  a  land  journey  over  ice  and 
snow  iiearly  across  the  island,  in  order  to  procure  tm  in- 
terview with  tiie  native  island.'rs,  lu^  I.eing  the  lirst  Eu- 
r«P''<ui  that  ever  ventured  to  ixo  among  them.      ( )ji  ids 
return  Iroin  the  present  .>xp..,litio„,  1„.  was  appointe.j  in 
I--0  fo  tJie  (,ras. hopper,  in  which  ship  he  refuriK-d   to 
.Ni'U|.Min,|la:i.l.iind. served  on  that  station  till  : -';:  xvheu 
h  •   ^^;l>   p-wniMled    to  th,'   rank  of  captain.      In  .■omm.r 
1  |.;  '-> 


Ii 


no 


.\l;t  III      \  M\  \(;i;s. 


IVom  liiiliii  III'  \v;i-.  Ids!  Ill  the   rplitn  ('a^llc.  ii  ship  fli;it 
\v;is  iM'Vcc  I  It  •nil  I  ul  ;iriiT  I  In*   -ill  ot    I  )rrc  nil  iri',   I  ^•.l-'. 

I  ill  r  II  >i  \  N  I'    l'"u\Nl\i.l\    cMlrrcil    llic   iiiiv  v    m    r.iilv 
till-  IIS  miil->lii|>iiinii  uT  I  III-  l'(ii|Mii->('.  iiiii'  rt  I  III-  sliips  nil 
|>Io\im1  Ii\    ( ';i|il;nii    I'limlcis  mi  llir  s|||-\(«\    nl'    llic   rniis|si 
ul    \  nsiriiliji.  Mini  \Mis  wiccUcd  III  liiT.       \r\l   iiillit'   I'oj 
y|t|iriiiiis  lis  iiiiiUlii|)iii:iii  Mini    inaslrr's  iiiiilr,  iVimi    I -Hi 
l.t  lS(l~;,  iiiiil  \\  iis  III  till'  llcfl  Willi    Nelson  III    llir    luiltlo 
of  ( '(>|HMiliM^(Mi.      Ilt>  WMs  ncNl  ji|i|)<)inl<'il  jiitnii:  linili  n 
Mnl   III  tilt'   iM-illnnl  :    iiml  wms   iiiMitriiMiit   nl'  liir    r><-llrii) 
plinii  in  tlu>  IimIIIc  ot     Tnirnl^iir  in   I  mi.'),  nini  iiUu  in   tlii> 
r>tMllniil    III    .:,i'  iilIiicU  un   New  (  >iI<';iiin  in    |s|.'>.  \\ll(•l■(^ 
lie  rtMinn;iii(li'il  in  llir  ImimIs,  \\  ms  WiMiiuli'ii.  ^M/,('IIt"(l,  mikI 
lin:lil\    spnlxiMi  nl.       1  Ic  WMS  prniiiiilt'd  tii  llic  imiiU  nl'  inp 
luin  III  l'-".''.'.  on  riMiirnuiLl  I'mni  Ins  lir^l   ImihI  Aiclif  r\pc- 
ililKMi.      Ill"    was  cnnsitlfri'd   a   iiniMJ    nantical    siirvrvor. 
well  MMsfil  III   lln'  ii^e  nl    insi  ninifiils,  ami  a    llinnin^li 
stMinun.       In   l"-.'!    lie  was  iniiilc  cniiiinaiKli'i". 

Lii  I  iTN  \Nr  Mmm  i.i.  was  pioniotcd  in  the  ranlv  nl' 
(•(innnaniliT  ni  l.'^J>,  and  Mppnintrd  ctniiinandfi'  nt"  lln- 
'rnriniNt'  inrt>-slnp  al  A'-criisinn  in  1-^1  I,  wlitTf  lu> 
now    is. 

LniTiNWT  I'l;  1  ni  r.ir  I'ikimiv.  i1u>  son  of  l',> 
•  •nniiiMit  ailisl.  wciil  llii(Mii:h  Ins  pinliatinn  in  tlit>  naval 
scr\ii"(>  Willi  i^rt'al  crrdit.  In  ISOd.  at  Ini  years  nT  ai:*'. 
lie  (MiIiMt'd  Lord  Si.  \  iiifiMit's  lla^  ship,  and  served  in 
\aiions  ^hips  ;  was  en^a^ed  as  mate  in  several  actions; 
and  was  m  the  N'cn^eiir.  ami  employed  in  the  lioats  at 
the  at  I  at  k  nl  New  t  Mieaiis  in  1-1 .").  and  inadt'  lienteiianl 
in  that  \ car.  As  iiiiuht  he  expected,  he  was  skillt'iil  as 
a  draiiuliNman.  wliic  h  he  practiced  on  the  present  voy- 
age with  i;reat  sncce--s.  as  the  prints  in  his  hook  testit'v. 
We  next  tind  him  as  lietiteiiant  ot  the  llecla.in  I'arrv's 
tirst  voyage,  in  w  liicli  he  w  as  t'lilly  (Miiployeil  as  dranj^hts- 
niiMi  and  >nr\eyoi-:  also  in  assistim:  in  all  lh«'  I'ecpiisitt^ 
ohs(>rvatioii>.  lu-iiii:  "t  Ji/i  active  and  eiiterpri>>inLl  mind, 
lie  was  next  eniplo\  ed.  in  th(>  years  1 -'.M  and  !>'JJ.  to 
snr\ey  and  examine,  m  company  with  his  hrother.  the 
ii(>rth  (-oast  ot"  Atiica.  I'rom  Tripoli  eastwaid.  (itmpre- 
liiMidiiii:  the  (ireater  Syrtisand  ("yrenaica  and  the  an- 
cient citie-^  com  posit  m  th(>  I'entapo'is.  In  .1  aiiraiy.  I  -•.'•">. 
he  WMs  aiM'omted  commander  ot'  the  InMNsom.  d.'st.ncd 


( M-r  \i\   n.w  II)  i!i  •  ii.\ \. 


r.i 


« 


'".  II    slii|i  lli;il 
iilicr.  I  r'.IH, 
iiMvy   III    ('.irly 

I  111'    sllips    fill 

III  llir  ciiiisN 
\l  ill  llir  Tiil- 
ti',  rnnii  I  -(i| 
lit  llii>  liiiltin 
iitiiii:  In-iilrii 
llir  l>rllriii- 
lil    illsn  ill    tilr 

I  HI  .">.   will  MM 
i;il/,rltri|.  miiiI 

r  liililv  dl  nip 
A  ictic  t'\|)«'- 
r;il    siirvi'VMr, 
il  !i    llmiiiii^h 
ri". 

»  flic  riiii!\  111 
liiiiilcr  <>r  I  III' 
I,    wlirii-    lir 

^'    SUM    uf     ll   ,' 

ill   tilt'    ii:i\,'il 

\  rsirs  (tl  niii'. 

11(1   scrvt'ii  III 

i'I'm!  actions  ; 

the  liiiiits  III 

Ir  liciitciiiilil 

k  ;is  sivillt'ul  as 

picscnl  \i>y- 

liiiiik  IfslilV. 

I.  in  l'ai-|-y"s 

as  (lrai!i;lits- 

lic  n'(|iiisitt> 

risiiio  iiiiiid. 

I I  III   I>-JJ.  t(» 
irotliiT.  the 

III.    (  (UlljMi" 

a:ii!    the  an- 
:!  ai  \-.  1  >"J."i. 

!M.    (l,'st'.!l,"i 


III!-  a  \(i\aL;r  to  tin-  l*arilir  ami  UrIiiiiiLi's  Strait,  with  iii- 
siiiirtKHi-^,  aiimin;  ntliri'  lliiiii:-;,  In  en  ii[»ciali'  with  llm 
I'lilai  lainl  rxin'ihliiiii-^ ;  In  k«'i'|t  the  r»|iissiiiii.  Imiwcv  rr, 
III  ip|irii  waliT,  and  nut  tu  i  i  d\  her  lirini:  hcsrl  in  tin-  nc. 
I'liiiliii^:  ill  Kiit/.rhiii'  Siiiiiid  till'  M-a  clear  id  nc,  nil 
IimimU  Mil  liuaid  were  inn->|  aii\iciiis  tu  lr\  inra  imrt  Iicii>,t 
|iii-^  ;i"t'.  iint  Ins  instruct  mi  is  did  nut  adiii't  nl'  it.  I  le  did 
nil  lie  cunld.  which  was,  to  sniil  Ins  masirr,  I'dsdii,  m 
the  decked  laiicli,  ill  which  he  pmceede^^  aluiii;  tlio 
cDii-l  III  Ainerica.  nnlil  iin|)edeil  liy  a  neck  nl  himl  inn- 
nni::  to  the  nint  liward.  and  eiiciiinliei  ed  wilh  ice.  In 
1  ■-•.'?  r>eecliey  was  made  captain,  \vhile  mi  this  service, 
111  which  he  reniaineil  tu  the  year  l-'.'~,  anil  pnhlished  n 
\ery  clevei-  hunk  nli  the  sliures  and  i->laiids  nl'  the  I'ii- 
cilic.  lie  lias  since  In 'en  enipluynl  in  variniis  siir\  e\  iii^ 
lintie--,  in  winch  he  has  :;reatly  ili-.tiiiL:inshed  hiin-eH, 
and  has  heeii  tnr  '^nnie  \ears  |iii>t.  and  •<till  is.  eiiipln\ei| 
III  cniidiiclini:  the  survey  nl'  the  cuiists  ut'  I  lelaiid.  and  tlut 
west  luasl  and  islands  id  Scntlaiid. 

(iiMii.is  rvi.MKK  and  \\'..l.  l)i  \i,v,  then  iictinj;- 
liiatcs.  were  prniiinled  In  jieiiteiiaiils  in  l-'jl,  and  re- 
main still  ill  the  same  rank. 

A  MHii.w  Iv  I.I  i>  was  pru Hinted  at  the  same  time  ;  went 
w  ilh  I'arry  mi  his  lirst  and  secniid  vnyaizes,  and  still  i»'- 
mains  mi  the  list  uf  lieiiteiiants. 

(iiniuJi;  I)  \(  K  inllnwed  lip  the  service  rrniii  his  lirst 
entry,  liiit  lias  heeii  mtistly  employed  mi  land  expeditiniis, 
and  has  highly  distiniiiiished  liimseH'  hy  his  active,  /eal- 
nus.  and  \iwurniis  cuiidiict.  on  \aiinns  occasiuns  ot'  i:reat. 
dill  lenity  and  |)eril.  haviiii;  coiitrihiited  mainly,  and  at  the. 
risk  nl  his  own  hie.  to  savi^  those  of  his  I'ellow-f liivelers, 
(•'lankliii  and  Kichardson.  h'or  these  ami  other  services, 
vhiidi  will  he  pointed  out.  he  was  advanced  to  the  rank 
ol'  captain,  ami  received  the  honor  oi'  kiiii: lit  hood.  ( "nm- 
jiare  the  prniiress  thus  made,  hy  adh(M'iiiii  In  the  service, 
with  the  statimiury  position  of  his  superior  cmiii'ade  in 
this  present  vnyai;e,  and  llie  coiudnsimi  to  he  drawn  is 
i'\  ideiit. 

(iioniii;  I'isiii.it  was  employerj  on  Parry's  second 
MiyaLie  as  chajilaiii  and  astronomer,  and  proved  himself 
a  \alii,ili!e  and  Useful  ol'licer :  he  is  now  chaplain  and 
head  iiia-ter  of  the  (!reciiwieli  Hospital  .\a\al  Schools. 


11 


»/'^ 


Auciu    vnv  \<;r,M. 


Tin'  iKiniitivi"  (if  flii-i  Miyiii:'' •■•••IK"'  Iki'IIi  iiiiilrr  |)i'imi- 
liiii'  I'li'i-iiiiivlniirf--.  mill  \\  lis  mil   jiiili||s||)>i|  mil  il  I  lie  \  imt 
I    •  I.!.   I  \\  ("111  \    li\i'    \  ciil  s  iillrr  II    \\  IIS   |M'rlniiiiiMl  rolilrlii 
|iiii  :iiiciiiis|\    \\  Il  II  I  li.'il  iiikIci'  (  'iiiiilii!iii(lri'  1 1 1  isn,  \\  liu  |>i  i>- 
fiM'ilcil    to    llic    iiuilliwfsl.    wliilr    lllf   (lr-.|iiiiil  mil  nt    lliis 

>\  lis    III    I  lie    lldllltCIIsl. 

lis  |MiMiriil  mil.  lis  iilrciiil\    sluicd.  ciiiiir  oiil   iiihIci'  iIiI- 

tiMlMll     <-||  I'lllllsllllll'I's    lllHII     llllll      III      Itliss.         (  'lltllMlilllillT 

(•iicliiiii.  iVoiii  ill  liriillli  It  is  siiiil,  (irrliiKMl  In  lining  mil 
iiiiN  iirriiiiiil  iif  till'  Mi\ii::i>  iiillici'  iVniii  iiiiiiiim lull <■  iiml 
lii'l  i\  1'  i'in|>lii\  iiiriit.  Il  1 1  III  \  lie  siis|icr|i'i|  ;  I  in  I  I  liri  r  \\  lis 
iiimllirr  iciisnn.  ns  we  li'iiiii  liuiii  ( 'ii|iliiiii  rn-i'dirx  . 
"  ( 'iijil  ;iiii  i'liirliiiii  iilisliiiiifil  rroiii  |iiililis|iiii^  Ills  own 
iiHiriiiil.  1111111  II  t'l-i'lini:  tliiit  tilt'  iiiiitl*'!'  Il  I'lHiliiiiiril  wiis 
iml  111  siiiliiiiMil  inli'ii'sl  Id  ^'ll^ll^l•  lli«'  iilli-iilmii  nt'  tln« 
tii'tirriil  ii'imIit  ;"  iiiul  I  iitcIicn  liirllifr  siiys.  "  j  ichicI 
iiUii  llllll  iii\  iiiiiiii'iliiili'  (-iiiiiiiiiiinli'i'.  Sir  .liiliii  I'l'iinlvliii, 
liiis  mil  llllll  ii'isiirc  to  mIIi'ihI  tu  llii'  |iiililii'iitiiiii  nl'  n  vii\- 
ii^c  HI  wliicli  lie  liiHc  so  (•iiiis|ii('miiis  a  piiil."  ///.  too, 
il  IIIIIV  III"  MisjU'cli'il.  ilccliiifil  t'niiii  II  li'i'lili^  nl'  ilrllf!l(\  . 
sn  Imiil;  IIS  till'  fiiiiiimiiiili'r  ul  tlii'  r\|it'ilili(iii  \mis  living, 
nihl  llll^hl  ciuisiilcr  llif  liiiu'  i.',iim'  liy  iillrr  liis  ilrii!',. 
Lit'iilt'iiiiiil  lii'i'dii'v  lia\  iii^  |)n's(«rvt'il  iiiali'rials  t'nr  ar- 
iiiiiiliin:  iiiln  lilt'  sli!i|u'  til'  a  joiirmil  ill  st»iiu>  I'litiirc  tiiiif, 
ami  liiniiii:  piil  tliriii  in  tuilfi'.  suluiiiltfil  it  Id  ('aptaiii 
|{iii'haii.  wliii  rt'liinii'il  il  willi  tlii'<  iiltst'r\atii)ii  :  Tlial 
"all  till'  iiitisl  |iii)iniiit'iit  tt'iiliiii's  dt' lllf  fxpi'dilmii  well* 
lirniifjil  tniwiinl  ill  pt'ilffl  at't'itrilaiii'i' w  illi  his  vit-ws  :*' 
llllll  lit"  luliis.  "  .My  tiiily  I'f^rt't  in  iinl  liasini;  |Mil»lis|it>c| 
the  |iriici't'iliiii:s  (irmir  iitifiiipi  lo  rt-iifli  tlif  I'nlt'.  is  tlif 
]Mi\iilii)n  til'  niiiUiiii:  llif  pnlilif  aft|iiiiiiiliMl  wiili  my  t'li- 
liii'  ii|i|ii"iil>iit inn  ol  lilt'  I'omliift  nt'  llit«  iinirci's  ami  scu- 
iiii'ii   I   liiid  till'  liniinr  li>  fnnmiaml." 

What  ilt'liiN  I'll  tilt'  iippt'araiift'  til'  tlii>  iianativf  ol'  ii 
vn\  nm'  iiiaili'  in  1  -^  1  "  to  tlif  y  fiii"  1  >!.'?.  ( 'iipfaiii  lif frhf  \ 
(lot's  not  say  :  it  conlil  not  l»f  ililViilf  iicf  ol' his  talfiit  I'm 
Nvi'itiiii:.  as  hf  hail  loiiu  hf ton'  pnhlishfil  a  voyaiif  m  lh«' 
I'lii'itic  ami  to  r>flirini:'s  Strait,  a  w  t'll-wiittf  n  volmiif 
ot'TitO  paiifs.  It  appi'iirs.  imlffil.  that  thf  |)nl>lic  wmiM 
not  liavf  liail  thf  jiifsf nt  worU  at  all  hut  lor  thf  pfrsiia- 
sioii  ot'  a  trit'iid.  who  casnally  saw  and  rt^ad  the  iiianii- 
script  whfii   taUin;i  a  littUt    tri|>  in   the  vfssfl   hf  com- 


iiikIci'  |ircil- 
iit  il  I  lir  \  t'lM' 
IIimI  I'liiiti'lii 

ISM,  \\  III)  |l|  II- 
llll  Kill    III     \\\\H 

lit    lltlillT   llll' 

(  'iiliiiiiMinlri' 
III  liniii:  Hill 
MlKMliiilr  ami 
III  lliiir  \\  as 
nil  I'liTi  lir\  . 
lilt:  Ills  own 
luilaiiiril  was 
■litliMi  III  tlir 
s.  "  I  riM.|r| 
•llll  riaiikliii, 
mil  ul"  a  vii\ 

//'.  Ion. 

l:  III'  ilrlliaiN  , 

III  \\  as  luiiii:, 

i'V  his  lira*',. 

•  •rials  I'lir  ar 

riituiT  liiin>. 

t    to   (  'a|itaiii 

atioM  :   That 

I '(lit  mil  wciH 

lis  views  :"' 

lU    |hi1)Iis||(mI 

r.ili-,  is  tllr 

with  my  I'li- 

rs  and   sca- 

inativc  ot'  a 
am  rirriht'N 
lis  tali'iit  I'lir 
lyaiit'  111  llie 
It  I'll  viilimii' 
iiililic  Nvuiilil 
the  piTsiia- 
tlir  iiiaim- 

M'l    llt>    I'OMl- 


(    MT.MN     |).\\  IK    IMCII  \\. 


,').'< 


piillliiril    III    ill'-    lll-ll    <    haillirl.        Tills    lllrllil'    IoMIkI    it    tii 
lir    lllli'l  I'sl  llli;,  ailii.  as   lllc    InmllK  i-   ul    a   \ii\,|;.'r    set     lullll 

|i\    '^lAi'iiiiiiiiil.   Ill-    aiKisnl    him,   ami    ali-<iliili'l\    rniii- 
ni'lli'il   liim.  as  it   wrn-.  In  |lllil||-^ll   it.  ami    \i>v   that    |iiii' 

pll-i'    tiMiJv    It    Willi     tinil    In    Lnmliill.  ll    IS    a    Wril    WIltli'M 

ami  Hill  Ti'-t  iiiLi  iiaiialiM',  ilisriicimilififil  ul  ihr  lrf(|iiciil, 
jTcmi  ••MCI-  III  naiilKal  ii'iiiaiks  ami  uIi-^itv  at  mii  .,  ulmh 
HIT  ii'ii  alwa\s  iimltMsluuil  im-  filishnl  l>\  tin-  umirnil 
ii  )i.|cr  ;  ami  it  runiaiiis  Ii\r|\  drsiiijil  mns  ui  llir  maii- 
iii'i-  ami  InliiK  ul  llu-  \ariiiiis  living  errat  ilii  >  thai, 
iiliniiml  llll  ill.'  shuirs  111'  S|>il/,lirim'ii,  lis  sra^,  ami  i-l 
jiMils  III'  III'  ;  ami  tlii'\  air  ^ivrii  iii  sii  rlrar  ami  Incnl  a 
liiaiiiirr,  Wilhiiill  till'  Irrlmiralltii'S  prcillia  ll  y  i'lii|ilu\  ml 
III  llll'  ili'-ri'i|it  lull  III  iiliji'i'ts  dl'  iialiiral  hi~^lui'\,  that  lli<- 
liiiuk  Is  Miiti'il  \iu'  all  rla->s('s,  ami  may  lir  ircuiiiim'inli'i| 
as  a  iiiuilil  lur  tntmi'"  \  ly  a^jris. 

'riiuiii.'li  this  r\|ii'iii,  ;iiii,  likr  that  ul'  fills'^,  was  a  fail 
nil'  111  lis  main  uhji'd,  \cl,  iiiilikr  lliu  othi'i',  il  was  imt 
uwini,'  tu  any  waul  ul  rxcitiun,  /.ral,  ur  iiililli;:i'iici'  in 
llir  I  \\  u  cuinmamli'is  ur  uliici'is  ;  un  thr  cuufiaiv,  thn 
twu  -lii|is  wi'if  sii|i|)|ii'il  with  siiiiii'  ul'  thusr  w  llll,  in 
liitiirt'  \uv:iiii's,  su  ^rratl\  (li-tin;:nislirfl  tln'in-^rhi's  as 
tu  iilitaiii  till'  lii^hcst  sii'ps  ul  |irumulinn,  iiiiil  tu  I'ci'ciM* 
Imimrarv  irwanls.  .Nrcd  tin'  nuiiirs  ul  l''raiiklin  ami 
I'lark  III'  mriitiuiiml  .' 

riir  inslnirl  lulls  ilin'ctrd  that  thi-y  wnr  tu  maki'  thu 
hi'st  uj' thi'ir  wav  ilitu  I  lii>  Spit/.liri^i'ii  seas,  w  hcii'  tliry 
slmiild  t'lidfaviir  tu  pa-s  tu  the  nuiihward,  lirlwci'ii 
Spil/.lii'i'i;t'ii  mid  ( iiffiilaml,  wilhunt  stuppiiii;  un  rithiM' 
ol  tlirir  cuasts,  and  nsn  thrir  hrst  niduavui's  lu  rrarh 
till'  North  Pull'",  with  a  siii.'i:""^tiuii,  thai  wdirrr  llir  sou 
Is  di't'pc-.:  and  least  (■uimecled  with  the  land,  it  will  Ik> 
luiiml  mu'^t  "lear  ul'  ice.  Their  instnicl  mns  un  uhjecis 
III  sriciit  llir  impiiry  nn  the  \ii\ai:e.  and  jiait  ieiilarlv  un 
tliiisi'  tu  lie  iiuticed  un  and  ahuiil  the  i'ule.  are  caieriillv 
drawn  up  and  in  ;:ieat  detiiil,  the  latter  pari  ul'  w  huh 
were  nnlurl  niiately  imt  called  intu  practice.  The  utlier 
piiiliuiis  ul"  ;i  i^eiieral  iiatiiie  appear  tu  ha\('  ln-en  care- 
tuily  attended  tu  anil  well  descrihed  liv  I  .ieiiteiiaiit. 
l>ei'(  hey,  w  llll  i lit rud lie es  his  reader  intu  the  ( Ireeiiland 
►S«'ii  ill  unlii'iny  tjie  inierest  taken  hy  ihusi-  wliu.  lin"  tho 

'  Mr.  .Iiiliii  llidMjw, 

J'.  -2 


« 


;{ 


?».,  I 


n 


n 


51 


ARCTIC    VOVA(;Eri. 


fir-t  time,  wlliicssnl  llir  sliip  wdiKiiiL'  its  uiiy  iimniii; 
lluiitiiii:  iiiii>si's  of  i<-(<.  iiml  wild  NicWfd  the  linulit  sun 
<l;M'liliu  lis  MlilKint'  I'liN  >  iiiMuii^  tliriii  ;it  iiii<llii^lll.  coii- 
M'ymi:  t"  llii-  rye,  jissislcd  li_\  the  iiii;i;;iii;iti(tii.  mid  Ity 
tllf  lllillts  illid  ^li!iiln\\>.  tilt'  !i|»|)c;irillicr  ol"  *'  nrcllitcct  II- 
rid  cditiccs.  ;.M"Mttucs,  ;iiid  ciiMx,  \\^^\•{'■  and  tlirit'  i:lillrr- 
iii^  !is  ilwitli  |)ifciuiis  iiictids;"  so  tliiit,  lie  Miys.  "it 
>Viis  iiMiiil  to  dcviiitf  t'roiii  ii;inti('id  |)lii-iis(M»|oj:y,  iiiid 
sli;i|)t'  ii  coiirx'  lor  ji  cliurcli.  a  tower,  or  liridi;i',  or  soiiif 
Miiiilar  strin'tiiif.  in  the  liiiiips  ol'  ice.'' 

So  ciirly  IIS  the  •,'ltii  ol"  May  tlif  cNix'diticni  liinl 
rcarlifd  (lii'i'ic  Island,  in  latitude  7  1  '.'>'■'>',  so  callrd  liy 
Stcplim  Ui'MiH'I.  in  Idd.l.  on  ov  near  wliicli  lli<'  wal- 
iiiscs  wen-  so  iiiiincions.  that  not  trwcr  than  niiif  hiiii- 
drt'd  or  a  tlnMisand  of  tho^c  jarm-  aiiiinals  wrrr  captiirrd, 
in  till'  slioi't  s|tact'  orst'Vfii  hours,  hy  the  crew  ol"  a  sin- 
;:lo  M'ssrl.  ( )r  the  liahits  and  charadrr  ot"  the  walrus, 
Lieutenant  rx'echey  ^ives.  alter  iVeijiient  inlercoiirse 
Avith  them,  a  very  inteiestiiii;  iiccoiint.  Their  alTeclion 
tor  their  yoniiir,  and  tlieir  iiiiirinchiii;j:  courage  in  de- 
Jeiidiiiii  them,  are  I'emarUahle  ;  lait  more  so  tlieir  eom- 
passioiiiite  condiirt  Inward  a  vvoiimled  eiaiipaninii.  whom 
they  will  ne\er  leave  till  carried  oil  to  a  place  of  satety  ; 
:ind  even  the  yoimi:  ones  on  sindi  occasi(uis  will  turn 
fiercely  iiiiaiiisl  llie  hoals  of  the  pursuers.  Althouiih 
one  ol'  tlie>e  animals  was  hroiiuht  ali\t'  to  Mnirlaiid  in 
Hill-,  as  we  learn  fi-om  i'liiclias.  yei  it  was  hut  the 
other  day  tliat  the  Tiritish  Aliiseiim  could  hoast  even  ol" 
a  stlllied  speciineil.  W'llv  should  liol  the  Zooloi^ical 
Society  offer  a  price  for  a  living  one  to  keep  the  while 
hear  company  .'  They  coiilil  i'asily  yet  one.  A  single 
instance  will  suffice  to  show  the  cai'ts  and  alfectioii  hi'- 
slowed  on  their  yoiiii^. 

•'  WC  were  L'reatly  amused  hy  the  siii:,'iilar  and  atVectioriate 
fnii(hic1  of  a  walrus  toward  it--  yoaiii:.  In  the  va>l  sheet  uf 
ice  that  siirroiniiled  the  >liips  lliere  were  ocra-innallv  iiiaiiv 
pools;  and  when  tia'  wcatliei'  \Na->  clear  and  warm,  aiiinials 
ol'\;n'ious  liiinU  would  licipu'iitK'  ri>e  and  sport  aliout  in 
ihi'in.  ol'  ci-a  ,\  1  I'i'oiij  till 'lice  i!|»ou  tin'  ice  to  liM-k  in  llie  w  ai'iiilh 
of  the  sun.  \  walrus  re,-e  in  uni'  of  thoe  |>oo!s  ckoe  to  the 
hill  p.  and.  IliKlini,'  everv  tli!n_r  <]niet.  dived  down  and  hrou;'lil 
up  its  \oiiiiL.'.  \slii<h  it  liehj  l»\  its  li!-c;i>t  liv  |>ri's-iiiL,'  it  with 
its  jlijijirr,     la  tin-  miiin:/:'  it  movinl  ulioiit  llje  j)oul,  keejiin:; 


l.U'iAl.N     b.WlU    IJLCII.W. 


.>•> 


s  wiiy  Jiinuii:; 
ic  liriiilit  sun 
liiliii^lit.  coii- 
iitioii,  tiiid  liv 
•'  iiicliifi'cl  II- 
tlii'ic  i:litt»'r- 
lic  sfiys.  *'  if 
isrold^y,  iilni 
"iil^c,  oi-  .SltlllC 

|)iMlitii)li  )i;ii| 
s(i  ciillnl  liy 
icll  till'  Will- 
ill!  liilK-  lillli- 
ere  ciilitlirt'd, 
rcw  ut'  ii  sill- 
r  llic  Wiilnis, 

'     inlcl'cniiisf 

lirir  iilicctiini 
iirii;:('  ill  (Ic- 
■  n  tlirii-  coiii- 
liiiiiiiii,  wlmiii 
(••'  of  siit'fty  ; 
lUis  will  turn 
(.  Altliuiii:li 
I  Kii;:liiii(l  III 
Wiis  lint  tin- 
(liist  »'\rii  ol' 
'  Zodld^icjil 

[)  till"  wliitr 

t'.     A  single 
ill'ccfion  1)1'- 

(I   iit]'t'(t!()llil!l' 

\;i>l    .-hrct   nt' 

iniiiilly  iiiaiiv 

;ii'iii,  .niiiii.'ils 

xirt    iil)i)Ut    in 

n  llii'  \\  ;ii-iiitli 

-   cImx'   to  till- 

illlil   l)l'()il''llt 

--itiL'  it  with 

)oul,  kcrjiiii:: 


ill  i<ii  I'lri  t    |t<i-'ini',  iiiiii    iilwiiy-*   tlirt'(iiii_'   ilir   t  ni'  ut    tiin 

Millli:.'     tiiW.inl     lllf     M'>.«t'l.        ()|1     till'     ^li_llll■^|      |IJm\  t  ■|||i 'lit      ll!t 

li/i.n-.l,  till'  DiMilirr  rfltM»'(l  Ini'  tli|i|n'r  :iiiil  jiii>iiiMl  tlir  ynllll^ 
nil''  iiinliT  uiilcr;  Imi.  ulnii  (•\fi-y  lliiiii:  was  iii.'Jiiii  i|int't, 
Iti'iiii^lii  il  ii|)  ;i>  lii'liii'i',  ;niil  till'  It  li'iiL;tli  nt  tiiii*-  i'iiiitiiiii*-il  to 
JililV  ,il»i)i|l  ill  llir  |Mii)l,  to  lilt'  ^'I'ciil  illiill.>i'lili'lll  lit'  lilt'  st'il- 
iiifii.  \\lii»  l:im'  lii'i'  I'lt'ilil  I'lir  iiiiilitics  ill  tiiitimi  wliirli. 
iIiii'IlIi  |in>>r>>iil  III   iciii^itli'r.il>li'  s.iijitcitv,  >lii'  li.ii'dlv  iiii  ril- 

til."— r. :;(»,  ;;i. 

(  >n  the  '.'-til  of  Miiy,  the  Wciitlifi'  Iti'iii^  l'iii:i:y  iiinl 
M'Vfn'.  with  lifiivy  tiills  ol"  simw.  the  ships  srpiinitt'il, 
niiil  tilt'  'I'n'iit  vtiHiii  tn  till'  nurthwiinl  tnwiinl  .Minidii- 
Ifiiii  I'iiy,  tin-  pIiK  f  III'  rmdr/Anus.  iiluni;  the  cdi,'*'  ot'  iho 
iiiiiin  liDily  (if  ice  :  th-y  nut  here,  iind  serine  it  impns- 
silili'  ti)  pcnrtiMti'  thr  iniiruiniil  lint'  nt'  tlir  ic**,  and  tlit^ 
sfii-<i>ii  bfiii^  \fiy  liirly.  tin-  fiinmiiindfr  dt'ttTniiiicd  nii 
j),i^>iiiU  il  tr\v  ilii\^  ill  th.il  hiiy.  in  which  tiit-y  iiiichni-cd 
(111  lilt'  .';d  nt. Illlil'.  'I'lit'  iff  wiis  in  tlh'  ciuf  iilid  upper 
jiiiit  nt"  i)n'  hiiilinr.  lull  Wiis  ill  il  rii|»idly  dcciiyini;  stiitc, 
iiiid.  nn  ri'\isitiii^  their  iinclinriii;e  here  in  tlie  lie^innin^ 
«>("  Aiiiiiist.  it  hiid  entirely  disiippciire  1.  .^lilu:dlllenil  liny 
i-  rendered  coiispicuniis  hy  lijiir  i:liiciers,  the  sniiillesl 
twn  hundred  I'eet  iiliitvi'  the  sen,  nn  the  sinpe  ol"  >l 
jiKiiiiiliiiii.  Il  is  ciilled  the  niuliiiliL'  leelieri:.  ill'd  seems, 
Ml  IJeechey  siiys,  iis  il"  ji  very  slight  iniitter  would  de- 
t.'ii'h  it  rroiM  the  ntoiiiitiiiii  liiid  precipiliite  it  into  the  son. 
The  liir^jest  ot"  the  four  extends  two  or  three  miles  in- 
liiiid  :  owiii^  to  tlie  :j:re;if  rents  in  the  snrfi.ce.  ii  hiis  lieeii 
niiined  the  W'ii^uii-Wiiy .  fmiii  the  reseinliliince  of  th»! 
ti-.>iirr>  tn  riit>;  iiiiide  liy  wheels.  Sevei'id  ^liicievs  sim- 
lliir  to  tliii^e  were  oliser\  ed  lieiir  Dime's  ( iiit,  the  liir^est 
nliiMit  ten  ihoiisitnd  feel  in  len::th  hy  two  or  three  luin- 
tlred  feet  in  |)eipendiculiir  liei<:ht.  In  tln^  vicinity  of 
jhe>e  i.'eherus  it  strict  iiliM'rvii nee  of  >ilence  is  necessiii'v  ; 
the  explosion  of  ii  ^1111  sciircely  ever  fails  to  lirin^  down 
«)iii'  III  these  mii>ses.  Ali-.  Heeclu'V  siivs  that  on  two 
iM  lii-iniis  thev  wiinessed  avaliiiiches  on  tho  must  iiui;:- 
liilici'iil  scale. 

" 'I'lie  first  "vv.'is  (iccii^inned  liv  the  discharire  of  ?i  musket  at 
.^ll■|||t  liiilt' 11  mill's  di.-^t.iiiti-  t'lmu  the  i:l;icier.  lniiiicdi;itf|y 
nttrr  till'  iipml  nt  the  '_'iiii.  ;i  iini-e  reseiiililiiiL'  tiiniidcr  was 
licard  ill  Uk'  dirt-'clinu  uf  liic  icchtr^  (^Ldacicr},  uud  in  a  few 


,0(> 


AiicTir   \  nv.\(;r..-<. 


M'cniids  iiincc  Mil  iiiMiiciis)"  pircc  lini^c  :i\v:iy,  iiliil  li-ll  Iii'.id- 
liill_'  illtn  till'  >t;i.  'I'lir  rirw  nl'tlH'  l.illcll,  »ii|)|h  i-Iml.'  llifiii- 
M'l\c>  Im'VuikI  llif  l<';n  li  (if  il>  iiilluiiifr.  (|l|iitlv  luuki'il  il|iM|i 
llir  scriif,  wlii'ii  |iii'-i'iilK  a  M'ii  iini".!'  atiil  rollfd  towanl  ilic 
hlinn-  witli  SIM  li  ra|>iililv,  lliaf  lln-  nrw  liail  iini  timi-  to  takf 
niiy  priMaiiti'iii"*,  ami  llir  Imal  wa-  in  (•(iii>.i'(|iiiii(  c  ua^litd 
ll|i(iii  till'  ImmcIi,  ami  cnmiilctrly  fillcil  liy  tin-  .>ii<'(i'r(liii^r 
wave.  As  SMuii  as  tlii-ir  a<fniii-.||iiii'iii  liail  >uli>iilcil,  tliry  cx- 
a  111  inn  I  tin-  I  ma  I,  ami  liiuml  Iht  mi  Kadly  >tii\  c  that  it  iK-caiiir 
iircr.ssary  to  rr|iair  Iht  in  mdrr  tu  nlnni  fn  tlif  ^lli|l.  'I'lirv 
iiad  al.'it  tlir  ciiriiKily  In  iiii'a>iiic  tlic  dislaiicf  tlir  lioat  liad 
lifcn  carried  liv  tin-  \va\c,  and  I'liind  it  In  In-  ninrlv— ix  Irrt." 
—  I*.   I.).-..   I. "id." 

[ii  virwiii^  tlic  •^a'lic  ::la(irr  iVnin  a  Imal  at  a  di'^tiincc, 
II  sccfiiid  avalaii(ln'  ! mk  pliirc.  which  aUnrdt'd  thciii  the 
j:ratilicMtiMii  ut"  w  itiicNsiiiu  the  cinitioii.  as  it  wcir.  nl"  ;i 
sea  icrhciir.  an  n|ip(titiiiiily  which  has  dcciin-cd  to  lew, 
thniiuh  it  is  ^rin-rally  iiiidci'stnud  that  ^llcll  iiioiisttTs  can 
(uily  l)»^  mMH'fiiti'd  (III  shdic. 

'•  This  (icciiiTi'd  (111  a  rcmaiUalily  line  day.  wlicii  tlw  (|iilct- 
lics>  di'  the  hay  was  lii'>l  iiitciii||it('(l  hy  the  noise  nl'  llie  tiill- 
iiii.'  hoily.  I.iriitenaiit  Krankliii  and  nivselt'  had  aiipniaclied 
«tiie  of  these  stn|ieiid< ms  walls  df  ice.  and  were  eiideaNorin:; 
1(1  search  iiitn  the  inneriiKist  rece>s  ot  a  (leep  cavein  that  was 
Hear  the  i\u)t  ol'  the  irlacier.  when  we  heard  a  re|i(a-t  as  il 
(»t'a  can  111  HI.  and,  turning'  to  tlie  (jnarter  \\  hence  it  |  >ii  mi  •cded. 
we  perceived  :in  iniinen-e  piece  ot  the  trout  ot  the  her;,'  >lid- 
iiii:  down  Iroiii  the  hei'_'ht  ol'  two  linndred  teet  at  lea.-t  into 
the  sea.  and  dlsper.-iiii:  the  water  in  evers  direi  tioii.  accoiii- 
]>aiiied  hv  ;i  loud,  ;.'iindiim  iioi>e.  and  liillowcd  hv  a  (|iiantity 
ol  water,  which,  heiliLr  pre\ioii-|y  Iodised  in  llic  llssiires,  now 
made  its  cscaiie  in  niiniherlos  >iiiall  lataracts  over  the  tmnt 
of  the  L'lai'ier." — I'.   !.")(;.  1,')7. 

.MU'f  (l«'sciil)iiiii  tlic  distiirlmiuc  (leeasioiied  hv  the 
phiiiiio  ofthis  «'iuMiiu>iis  tViiLLiiieiit,  and  tin-  rollers  which 
swept  ()v«>r  the  sni-facc  of  the  iiay,  and  ohliued  tlie  Dur- 
(ithea.  th«Mi  careeniiiL;  at  the  distance  ol"  lour  iiiiU's,  tu 
ariiilit,  hy  releasing  th(<  tacUK's,  h(»  thus  proceeds: 

"The  piece  that  had  heeii  d isenL'aL'ed  at  lit>t  wholly  dis- 
a])peared  under  w.iter,  and  iiothin;:  was  seen  hut  a  violent 
lioilin;,'  of  the  se;i.  and  a  shoolini.'  up  of  clouds  of  sprav.  lilst* 
that  which  occurs  at  ilje  foot  of  ;i  trn-at  cataract.  Alter  a 
shiiit  lime  it  reappeared,  r.iisiiii:  its  head  fnll  a  linndred  feet 
ub'JV(.'  the  smface,  with  water  poiuiii^  iluwn  Irum  all  [lurts  of 


CAPTAIN    I>AVM)    IJLCIIAN. 


57 


•  ikI  t.'ll  li.'.'i.l- 

>|MI>iM_'    llll'lll- 

'  liiitUi-il  ii|iiiii 

(I    filWill'tl    fllf 

liriK'  til  tJtUt' 

(•  >iiC(('r(liiiL; 
(ll'<l,  iIh'V  I'\- 
lllll      t    lirciMH- 

•  .-lii)>.  'I'lii-y 
till'  lii>;it  li:iil 
ii-ty-six  H-it." 

\t  a  ilistiKicc, 

•  mI  tlictli  tlir 
t  wcir.  of"  !i 
ni'il  to  lew. 
liii>ii>trl"s  Ciin 

nil  tin-  i|iiii't- 
sr  (»!'  I  lie  111  li- 
lt ,'i|i|i|°n.'ii'lii'il 

•  niilrav  nriiiic 

IMTM   tint   \V!IS 

icpiirt  ;is  it 
|il'iirrci|i'il , 
I'  liiTu,'  -liiU 
;il  li'a>t  iiitii 
lioii,  acciim- 
V  a  i|iiaiitity 
issiii'i'^.  now 
vrr  till-  trout 


III 


rd  hy  tlio 
illt'is  which 

il  thi'  l)(ir- 
iir  iiiilfs,  ti» 
('('(Is  : 

wlmlly  (iis- 
iiit  a  vinli'iit 
it  s|iniv,  lilsH 
nl.  Al'trr  ;i 
luiiilifil  I'ct't 
u  all  |iai-tsot" 


if;  ami  tlii'ii  lal'iirin.' II-.  it'tliiiilill'iil  uliiih  way  it  .hIhmiIiI  fall, 
it  nilloi  (iMT,  ami.  altiT  tut  k mil;  almiit  mhih'  iniiiiiti's,  at  l<'tii.'tli 
iici  ariD'  «t'tlli  il . 

'•  We  li'iw  a|i|>niarlii'il  il,  ami  iMiiml  it  m  ally  a  ijiiarti'i'  <>l";i 
mill-  in  rirciimti'ri'lii  !■.  anil  -i\ty  Int  mit  ut  thr  ualrr.  Kimw  - 
in»'  il>  >|i<'<  ill''  L'lavity,  ami  maUiiiu'  .1  lair  allnuanri'  Inr  its 
im  i|nalitir">.  uf  r"iii|iiili'il  it-  wriL^lif  at  Jjl.tiiiO  fmis.  A 
hfi'iarii  i>r  >alt  \\:i!it  \\a->  -till  |iiiuiiiil'  iIhwm  it-*  sii|i'<.  anil 
tliiTi'  wa'^  M  cniitimial  1  lackiiiL'  imi'i'.  a*  Imiil  a-  that  ul'a  «art- 
\\  l|i|i.  Ill  I  a-i"  nil 'I  I,  I  r.|||i|pn->r.  liS  tlir  r-i  a  |  n  '  i>!  Ii\i'il  (  ri  >|i  til  it'll  ) 
nil." — I'.   I"i~.  I'l'!. 

>Ir.  IIi'I'cIm'j-  (•iiiilinii-i  wlinf  ha-.  t"i('i|iiriii|y  hrt'ti  I'lniiiil 
nipl  iiiiliri'ij  -  the  Mii|ilin'«.«<  ni'  tin-  triii|icratiin'  on  tlio 
w»'>t»'rn  coiioi  of  S|iit/,lM'ri:('ii,  tlu'i*'  ln-in::  liltlf  or  no 
srnsafioti  of  coM.  tlioiii:li  t In-  iht'itiioiiii'ti'i'  iiiii:ht  Im-  only 
a  Irw  il»'L:it'i'<  aliiiM'  tin-  triM'/iii:_'  |iiiiiit.  The  Inilliant 
and  livfly  t'lfnt  ot  a  cli-ar  ila\ ,  wIhmi  tlif  -iiiii  shinrs  fiulli. 
with  a  |init'  sky.  wlmsi'  a/iiic  hiii'  is  so  iiifnisi'  as  to 
tiii'l  till  paialli'l  t'\('M  ill  ihc  Imastcil  Italian  sky.  alfonls, 
ill  Ml".  Iift'chcy's  o|iiiiioii.  a  lull  (•iiiii|i('iisatiiiii  lor  tint 
rlmiily  nnd  misty  weathrr,  wlini  tlir  hills  an-  clnthrd 
with  iH'W-lalli'ii  snow,  and  all  a|i|irais  iln-aiy  and  ilrso- 
latr.  Tho  I'lnliatioii  of  the  sun.  he  olKorscs.  in  soiiio 
shi'lti'ri'd  >itiiatioii,  is  so  |iow('it"iil  during'  two  hours  on 
nthrf  side  of  nooti,  that  tliry  t"r('f|iii'iit ly  olisfM'Vcd  the 
ihrriniiiiu'ti'r  ii|)iiii  till'  icr  in  tim  olhii;;  at  .")-i  .(;•,>  .  1:7  ; 
and  once  at  innl n'l ahl  it  rose  to  7.'.  ,  altlioi|i;h  ill  the 
sliaili'  at  till-  sMiiir  tiiiii-  it  was  only  .Ki  .  Ilcncc  an- 
found  varii'tics  of  Al|iiiii'  olaiits,  i;rassi's.  imd  lii'hcns.  such 
as  in  the  iiioit  sonthi'in  a-pccts  tloiirisli  in  i;i»'at  Inxiiri- 
aiici' :  they  arc  line  tmind  ascciidiiii:  to  a  con-idcralilo 
lii'ii:ht.  "so  that,"  says  I'ccchcy.  "wc  liavc  l"r»'(|iu'ntly 
.seen  the  reindeer  lirow>ini:  at  an  ele\ation  of  lil'teen  hnn- 
dl-ed   feet." 

(  >n  accrnnit  of  the  mildness  of  the  tem|ieratiire.  the 
shores  ot"  S|iit/.lieii.'eii  lire  l're(|iieiil ed  liy  multitudes  of 
animals  of  \aiiiiii«;  descriptifnis.  ••  rrom  nn  earl\-  hour 
in  the  moniinj  until  tlie  iieriud  of  rest  returned  the 
shores  around  ii->  leveilu'iated  with  the  merr\'  crv  ot 
the  little  auk.  willock^.  di\ers.  cormorants,  yiills,  Miid  oth- 
er agnatic  hirds  ;  and  wherever  we  w  eiit.  L'foiips  of  wal- 
rnsses,  l.askiiiL'  in  tiie  sun.  minified  their  playful  roar  with 
tlio  husky  iiark  of  llu;  seal."'     Tho  little  auks  or  retue^i 


\  t 


-2K1SJ»ES>;.: 


58 


AIICTIC    ViA'AGErf. 


(lllf  Aid'  irlli)  iirc  Miltcil  to  he  so  liilliHToils.  tllilt  "WO 
liiivt«  lVc(|ii('iilly  •'I'cii  uii  iiiilijlfnii|>l('(|  line  o|'  iIkmii  »'\- 
tt'iiiliiiu  lull  liair  Wiiy  n\cr  llii'  liiiy.  n|-  to  ;i  distance  of 
more  tllllli  !lll"et'  miles,  iinil  so  clove  tooetliec  tllilt  lllilty 
lliiNe  t'iilleii  111  one  .shot.  Tiiis  livin;^  c()|uiiiii  iiii::lit  he 
alioiit  six  yiirds  Itroad  and  as  many  deep:  so  lliat.allow- 
iii{^  sixteen  l)irds  to  a  cnliic  yani,  tlieie  would  lie  four 
millioiis  ol    tliesi-  cicatiires  on  the  wiiii;  at,  one  time." — 

This  nimiher,  lie  adds.  a|i|)ears  very  Iai';:e  ;  yet,  when 
it  is  told  that  the  little  roti:('s  risn  in  siadi  multitudes  as 
lo  darken  the  air.  and  that  their  chorii->  is  distinctly  aii- 
dil'le  at  a  di^-tance  of  t'oiir  miles,  the  estimate  will  not  u\>- 
])ear  to  he  exnuiU'rateil.  In  I'act,  their  niimhers  dwiinilo 
into  a  small  figure  when  com  pa  led  with  A  i  id  nhon's  piiss- 
«'iii;er-pi;;eoii.  on  the  hanUs  of  the  (  )hio.  which,  estimii- 
te(l  oil  the  Willi:  "'  »•"('  time,  he  makes  1 , 1  l.'j.fldli.dUO 
:ind  upward.  Too  much  coiilidence  on^ht  not  to  ho 
])lac"d  oil  ciilculali(»iis  such  a>  these. 

At  \'oi:el  Sa.iu  and  ('|o\eii  ( 'lil'f.  hetweeii  which  is 
I'^iir  Haven,  wherein  the  ships  aii(iiorei|.  the  surroimd- 
iiiil  islands  are  descrihed  as  clothed  with  lichees  and  otli- 
rr  ri(  h  pasturaije  for  reindeer,  which  creat  nres  are  hero 
so  al)undaiit  (upon  N'o^el  Siiiiij;  in  particular),  that  this 
i.siaiid  alone  supplied  the  expedition  with  forty  carcasses 
ill  lii^li  condition,  the  fat  on  the  loins  heinu  from  tour  to 
isix  iiadies  thick,  and  a  carcass  prepared  for  dressiuj^ 
>veiuliiiii;  two  liiuidred  and  eii:hly-live  pounds.  Tlieso 
fine  creatures  showed  e\  ideiit  marks  of  ali'ection  for  each 
other,  "  They  were  at  this  time  in  pairs,  and  when 
one  was  shot  the  other  would  liiui^  o\er  it.  and  occa- 
sionally lick  It,  apparently  hemoanini:  its  fate;  and.  if  not, 
immediately  killed,  wtdild  stand  three  or  four  shots  rath- 
er than  desert  its  I'lillen  companion.'"  "This  compas- 
sioiiati"!  condiut."  continues  l>ee(  hey,  "  it  is  needless  to 
say,  doiihled  our  (  liance  of  success,  thoiiuli  I  must  c(ai- 
fess  it  was  ohtained  in  violation  ol'  our  hetler  feeliu;Ls." 
These  animals  aiw  said  to  take  to  the  water  freely,  and 
swim  from  one  island  to  another.  Tin-  hoats  of  tho 
Trent  took  four,  wlfadi  they  wished  to  retain  alive;  hut 
tliev  were  so  wild  that  thev  hroke  their  slender  liiuhs, 
and  intlicted  other  .-erious  wounds,  so  that  ii  liccame  ne- 
rcssury  to  put  an  cud  to  llieir  sulleiin^s  hy  Ki'iiiiL  iheui. 


CM'TAIV    DWIl)    r.r(  IIW. 


59 


s,  lliat  "  wo 
dt"  tlicrli  «'X- 
dislaiicc  (»!" 
r  tlial  thirty 
III  iiiii:lit  l)(> 
tllilt.  ullitw- 
)lll(l    l)(>    I'dUl' 

lie  tiiiif." — 

:  yet.  wln'ii 
iiiltitiiiirs  as 
istiiictly  aii- 
•  will  not  a|t- 
tcrs  <i\\  imllt) 
iihun's  pass- 
licli,  cstiiiia- 

1  l.'j.lllHI.ODll 
it      llt»t      to     1)1) 

(Ml  ^vlli(•ll  is 
ic  snn'oiiiHl- 
ci's  and  otli- 
r«'s  arc  licie 
I-),  lliat  this 
•ty  (•at■(•a^s('.s 
fro  11 1  lour  to 
tor  <li('s>iii<; 
ids.  Tht'so 
lion  loi'  cai  li 
',  and  wlii'ii 
t ,  am!  occa- 
:  and.  if  not 
r  sliots  I'atli- 
is  (diiipas- 
ni'cdio>s  to 

I  must  con- 
r  tt'cJiiitis." 

iVfrly,  and 
imhIs  ot   tlio 

II  alive  ;  Imt 
ndiT  linilis, 
In  canif  nt'- 

\i'!iKi:  tht'iu. 


At  uiir  ol'  tin-  i^lrts  iirar  \'oi;td  Saiii:  Wfrt-  also  tim 
Kinu  liidcr  duck-;,  in  >i!cli  niiiiilifi-s  that  il  wa^  ini|ios>i- 
lilc.  aliiio-t.  to  walk  without  trfadiiiu  on  1 1 n-ir  iii'-«t-'.  which 
thi'V  dct'i'iidcd  w  ith  di'trfiiiiiu'd  i-t'>o|utioM.  Jl'diivfii  oil' 
li\  l'n\cv  or  other  larue  aiiiiiial-..  tlioy  ha'<til\  dni'.s  the 
ijnw  II  ol  the  iic<;t  o\ cr  tlu)  t'::'_'^  and  ::liii'  it  with  a  yellow 
ihiid.  not  only  to  |tiesrr\e  tlii'  warmth  ot'  the  ei:::-^.  hiiT 
that.  Iieiiii:  of  >o  (ilTensiv  (•  ;i  imtiire.  the  lo\es  would  liof 
tipiicli  the  ('u:i:s  tainted  with  il.  I''o\es  and  hears  are 
e\ervwhere  loiind  on  the  shiH'e  and  on  the  ice  ;  and  tin* 
>e;i  aliiiiit  .'>|)il/.lier:^en  i->  as  much  alive  a>  the  lainl.  Iroiii 
the  III  il  lilt  III  le  (il'liiii  ::er  me ->ler-..  stroll  t  jauL""''-  nialmoiik--, 
kiiliwake^.  and  the  re>-t  of  the  i^iil!  Irili'  ,  while  the  ain- 
jihifiiiiiis  ;iiiiiii;i|s  and  the  ll-h  eiili\en  hmli  the  ice  and  the 
w  aler.  Iron  I  the  liiiije  w  hale  to  'lie  minute  i  lio  on  w  liicli 
il  t'reds.  swallowing  |»erha|)->  a  million  at  a  meiithl'iil.  In 
tiii>  re--|iecl  ot'animal  hie.  the  Arctic  regions  oi'the  i:lolpe 
e>seiiliall\  ditler  timn  those  within  the  .\ntar<tic  ('ircle, 
where  all  apiiear^  to  iie  >lillnes-.  silence,  and  xilitiide. 

<  Ml  the  7th  of  .lime  the  ships  lel't  Alaudaleiia  Hay, 
and  were  ham|)eied  with  rraL'meiits  of  ice.  Usually  call- 
ed lii-ii.^li-iri ,  whi(di.  as  they  proceeded,  hecami»  thicker 
and  inure  solid,  and.  indeed,  impeiietrahle :  hut  a  hr^e/.e 
opeiii'd  and  dispers'-d  it.  id  (  ai'rie*!  the  shi|)s  into  clear 
\\aler.  In  ^joinir  wc'-terly  they  tell  in  with  several 
Aviiale  ships,  hy  which  they  learned  that  the  ice  in  that, 
((iiarter  was  cpiite  compac!.  and  that  til'teeii  vessels  wern 
liesct  III  it.  IJnchaii,  therefore,  stood  t«»  the  northward. 
'I'hi'V  passed  (  loveii  ('Mil' — a  remarkiihle.  isolateil  rock, 
whuli  marks  the  iioi  lliwestern  iiuiindary  ol' Spit/.lier^'eii 
-—and  also  Ked  Ihiy.  when  they  were  stepped  hy  the  ice 
clo^iii::  the  channel  hetVNeeii  it  and  the  shore,  and  he- 
caiiie  lirmly  li\ed.  Hy  :;rcat  exertions.  howe\i'r.  they 
'j.i>l  into  the  lloe  ot'  ice.  where  they  remained  thirteen 
da\  s.  w  hen  the  lield  he^aii  to  separate,  and  to  set  to  iIk^ 
southward,  at  the  rati'  of  three  miles  sm  hour,  and  the 
ships  Pill  into  an  open  Sea.  where,  however.  lhe\  wero 
not  loim  perimtled  to  remain,  and  took  shflter  iii  Tair 
J  laveii. 

I'iiidiiiL'.  from  the  \iew'  afforded  hy  thi-  hills,  that  the 
ice  w  as  driving,'  to  tlie  iiorihw  aid.  they  a::aiii  put  to  sea  on 
the  'Jth  of  July,  uijil  sailed  a^  I'ur  us  cU     lo'  M.,  wliero 


1^ 


60 


AKCTIC    \  ()V.\(;i:.-:. 


tlic  siiMH'  iiripciictriiMc  li;:ri-ii!'  rihvtruclrd  ilicir  .iiitlicr 
proirrrss.  <  )n  the  I'mHowiiil;  (Ii_\.  Iiu\vr\  ••!•.  sn  i;i|ii(|  liinl 
hi'cii  tlif  iiKitiiiii  (iT  llic  ice  (iiinii'j:  llif  iii^lit.  lli;it  clinii- 
lifls  it[  water  wrn-  dlKt-rvcd  in  (•\ri_\  (|iiarlcr.  iiiid  the 
wind  Wiis  f"a\()i!dilc  I'.ir  ixncc'djiii;  idniiL'  <iiu'  of  tlio 
open  cliiiniM'Is.  ('aptaiii  iiiiclian  lost  not  a  iiioiiioiit  in 
piisliiii^r  Ills  sliip  into  our  ol"  tlicvo  opmini/s,  sprradin^ 
«'\fiT  sail  liis  nia>ts  wonld  hear,  and  was  ciioci-ruily  lol- 
](»wrd  hy  liis  rntri'prisini:  <'onsoit.  to  the  ifrciit  joy  ol"  all 
on  hoai'd.  In  ilio  fvrninu.  liow fvor.  tin-  (diMiituds  Ix'j^ini 
to  dost'  ai^ain.  and  tiio  vessels  wt  •(•  soon  hesef  and  press- 
ed close  liy  the  paeKed  ice.  This  was  the  end  t>[  their 
V(»yai:e  northward,  and  the  latitude  Liainerj  was  so  .'!r 
IS.  In  sain  they  lahored  two  days  in  dra'^udii!,'  the  ves- 
sels with  ropi's  and  iee-Jiiichors ;  I'or,  thoni:h  they  liad  left 
the  ice  hehind  them,  the  cnrrenf  had  carried  them  hack 
to  the  sonthwanl  three  miles,  and  it  was  clear  that  all 
iiltenipis  to  uet  one  nnle  farther  to  the  northward  wonld 
be  \ain. 

('a|)tain  Uncliini  heiiiii  nt»w  satisfied  that  he  hud  i^iven 
the  ice  a  fair  Jrial  in  the  viciifity  ol  Spit/heriien,  resolved 
on  standing:  (»ver  toward  the  coast  of  (Jreenland.  Ilav- 
ini:  sncceeded  in  uettinii  the  ships  to  the  ed^e  ot'  the 
])!icl\,  and  sailiiiii  aloiiij;  it.  a  violent  uale  ot"  wind  came  on 
so  suddenly  tliat  they  wer(>  at  once  redncetl  to  stoi'm- 
staysails.  'I'ho  ice  was  setting  fast  npon  them,  and  the 
.l)orotliea  heiiii:;  nearest  to  it,  in  order  to  escape  innne- 
(hate  shi|)wrecl\.  it  was  deemed  necessiiry  to  take  retniio 
jmniiiii  it.  The  Trent  follow  ed  her  example,  and  dashed 
into  the  ••  nnhroken  line  (d  fniious  hreakei's.  in  wliicli 
innnense  |)ieces  ot'  ice  wer<'  heavini;  and  sMltsidinii  with 
the  waves,  and  dashiiiy:  toiretlier  wit h  a  violence  which 
jiotlmni.  a|)parently.  lait  a  solid  body  cnnid  with^-tand. 
occasioninii  siicli  ii  noise  that  u  was  with  the  ;:reatest 
dilficnlty  we  <-oiild  miike  onr  orders  lieanl  hy  the  crew." 
"  No  laiiynai;*',"'  he  says.  ••  I  am  convinced,  can  convev 
an  adeipiate  idea  of  the  teriitic  iii'inidenr  ot  llie  elfect, 
now  piodiiced  hy  the  collision  of  the  ice  and  the  ten.pest- 
Uous  ocean." 

Iiiit  when  tile  mrtmenr  arrived  tliat  the  streni,fth  o( 
the  little  hark  was  io  he  placed  in  competition  with  that 
(if  thfi  ^reat  icy  continent,  and  donhls  miyht  rea^onahly 
liiive  arisen  of  iicr  siir\iviiiir  (h,.   iint'(|,ii.il  conlhct.  iho 


IM'T.\I\     1)A\  lit    IJUCII  AN. 


()1 


l!ii'ii-  .iiirlin- 
.  sii  Ciiidd  IiikI 
ht.  th.'it  rliaii- 
iitf'C.  iiiid  the 

L!    <>||(>     ot'    fl|(> 
!l    IMUIIICIlt    ill 

\!is.  s|)i'c!i(liii(i; 
■lif't'rt'iilly  tul- 
ifiit  jny  of  iill 
iMiirit'ls  hc^iin 
set  ;iii(i  prcss- 
'  fiid  i»f  their 

I  \v;is  Kd    ;;r 

[ilh\ii  tlif  vrs- 
I  tlu'v  hfid  left 
I'd  them  li;iclv 
clciir  thiit  all 
liward  would 

he  iiad  ;;iv('ii 
"iii'ii.  rcsctKed 
iiliiiid.      Ila\- 

cilil*^  <>l  tin- 
viiid  ciimc  (»ii 

0(1  t(»  stoi'in- 

Ik'III.   Mild   tllM 

s(!t|H'  iiniiif- 

I)  take  r<'l'ii^e 

1'.  and  dashed 

'IS.  ill  which 

ilisiditii;  with 

tieiicc  which 

d  with^taiid, 

the    !:i'eatest 

V  the  crew." 

,  call  coiivev 

)i    the    eHei'l, 

the  teii.|>est- 

stionutli  of 

>ii  with  that 

If  reasonnhly 

cotidiet.  U'O 


rrew   |ire>ei-veil    the    iireatest    calmness   and  res(»hiti()n. 
( 'a|tlam  IJeechey  says  : 

••  ll'rMT  the  liiililiide  et  .-eaiiii'ii  w a >  DiiiU  tried,  it  was  as- 
>iuic(ll\  iini  |i'«s  Ml  mi  Miis  ncca>iiiii  ;  and  I  will  iint  ((iiicral 
till'  niiil"'  I  ti'lt  ill  w  iliies>iiii.'  llie  hold  and  dr(i>i\e  tunc  in 
vslncli  the  orders  were  i»ued  hy  llie  coiMiiiander  't diir  little 
M--el  \  i'raiiklin  >.  and  the  iiroiii|ititiide  and  >Ie,idiiie.-.s  willi 
wiliih  tllev  were  exerilled  iiv  tile  (lew.  jlacll  |ier.".o|l  iii- 
slimiively  ^-'ciired  hi>  nwii  hold,  and,  with  his  eye>  lixr  I 
iijiMii  the  III  i>ts.  awaited  in  l)realhle.~>  anxiety  the  nioiiii'iil, 
ot'  (  niicii^sioii.  It  M.dii  :in-i\cd  ;  the  liriir.  cutting,'  lier  way 
iliriMiL'h  the  lii:lit  i(  e.  caiiie  in  violent  contact  wilii  the  main 
l)ni|\-.  In  an  ■ii-tant  we  all  ln>t  our  titutini:.  the  iiia>ts  heni; 
with  the  ini|ietns,  and  the  crackin.'  tinihers  trom  helow  |i  •- 
s|tnke  a  pre^-nre  which  was  cali'ulated  to  awaken  onr  senon.s 
a|)|.relieii>ion.>."— I'.   )-':{.   l-.'l. 

''aptaiii  IJeeihey  jiroceeds  to  f;ive  a  most  formidaldn 
account  ot'the  state  ot"  the  ship,  accompanied  hy  a  ter- 
rilic  and  w  fli-execnted  print,  descriptive  of"  her  situation, 
'ller  motion."  he  says,  "was  so  i:reat  that  \\io,  ship's 
hell,  which  in  (he  heaviest  uale  ot"  wind  had  never  struik 
ol' itse't".  now  tolled  so  eonliimally  that  it  was  ordered  to 
hi'  mnllleil  lor  the  purpose  of  escaping  the  iinpleasani, 
a^siiciation  it  was  calcidated  to  produce,"  Alter  a  lew 
hours  the  yale  ceased,  and  the  pack  hroke  up  siiHicientlv' 
to  release  the  ships,  wliicli  were  so  disahled  that  the. 
|)oriitliea  was  in  a  roiinderin^  condition.  They  mad(i 
the  hesi  lit'  their  Wiiy  to  Kair  lla\eti  in  a  r^inkini;  state, 
\vliere  they  repaii'eil  their  damages  as  woll  as  they 
could  ;  it  was  ol)vioii>,  however,  there  was  an  end  to 
any  !"artlier  attempt  as  re^ai'ded  the  main  ohject  ol"  ili<^ 
expedition.  The  Trent  heini,^  the  less  damaued  id"  the 
two.  [iieiilenaiit  l''riiiikliii  reipiested  that  he  mii;ht  la^ 
alliiweij  to  proceed  alone  in  the  execution  of  the  service. 
This  coiilil  not  he  acceded  to,  as,  in  the  event  wliieli  had 
occurred,  ('aptaiii  r.iichan  was  directed  hy  his  insti'iie- 
tioiis  to  take  (■onimand  of  the  Trent,  provided  her  (;oii- 
sort  was  itMido-ed  imserviceahle  :  had  he  done  so,  \\l^^ 
Dorothea,  unaccompanied  in  her  way  home.  miLdit  have 
risked  the  lives  of  her  crew  in  a  ship  so  shattered  and 
misafe.  It  was  therefore  decided  that  hotli  shoiilil  re- 
turn home;  and  on  the  .".Ofh  (d".\iii:nst  tliey  put  to  seu, 
tuid  on  the  ',»-.'d  of  Uctoher  arrived  at    Depiford. 

J'" 


I 


02 


ARCTIC    VOYACLS. 


('llAFTf'.fl    IV. 

PARRY'S  FIRST   VIIVAIiE. 


Jim  rnnl  iif  It  I'oi/i/'ji:  for  //n'  P/sruriri/  nf  n  S'^rlhirrxf  Piix.s~ 
!/•!!•  fnnii  thr  Alliinlic  l<>  tlir  I'lirifir.  /{>/  W .  I'..  i'-Vnuv, 
(Jiiiilliiilni/i' r  iij  Ikr  J\.r jnilil mn . 

'Vnv.  two  ships  jippoiiitiM!  for  tins  sf-rvirc  wprc  tlin 
IFfclii.  ii  liiiiiil)  ()l  '.',','>  tons,  and  tlic  (irip«'r.  a  larizo  ynti- 
\)r\\l  of  l-'O  tons,  raised  npo;i ;  and  tlicy  wf.'rc  comiuand- 
»'d,  oKiccrcd,  and  manned  as  under  : 


Tin:  llKd.A. 

A\'iii.  VAw.  I';irry,  l.iiiit.  CoimiK 
I'Mjit.  I',.  Hiiliiiic.  A^n'uiioiiirr. 
]•■.  W.  licccliiy,  l.iciitcnaiit. 
•loliii  llihv.ird.-,  ."^iir_'(  nil. 
W.   II.   Hn(i|)('!',  I'lir-rr. 

.AlcMiiKJrr  I'l.-hci-,  .\ssi.-rt,  r^m-j. 
.J(iM  |ih  .Niii-. 
Win.  .1.  Krilv, 
riKirli'.-  I'.il.ii.T, 
.liis.  Cliirkr  i;c» 

.iiiiiii  r>ii>iiii'iii. 

.liiiiifH  llul.-^i',  rirrk 


'I'm:  rjRiPFR. 
.M;ittlii\v  I. id. 1(111,  r.j.iif.  r'nitiiii". 
II.  i'lrkyii.''  liM|)|)Mir.  l.i»Miti'iiiiiit. 
t  'liji.-^.  ,lii.-<.  Iliv-  lit  y,  A^r-i.-it.  ^nm. 
.Aii.iiN'w  i;.  id,        "),.,,,■ 
A.  .M'.  Sk.n...  rM>'l>lHp- 

\V.  Nrl^(,ii(inmtli^.  i      ""■"• 
t       Cyru.H  W'iikttliitiii,  ('l^■rk. 

'  I'J  .Mill'  .•^(•iiini'n. 
t'l  Mariiii'jj. 

it)  Tutal  on  board. 


v-1  otriciT.". 

(iuiiiicr,  liiiatswain,  ( 'arpi  ntrr, 

( Jn  iiiliiiid     Ma.-ti  r,     ( iriciJiilid 

.^^ltl',    Cook,    t    I.cadiiiir    .Mi-ii, 
](I  I  Hirii-ti'f  .MasttT,  (iiiniH  r'.-i  Miifr, 

llnaL^Wajn'.-i    Miiti',    ( 'ai|i('litt'r'.-i 

.Nlatc,  .\riiiiirrr'.-  Mati',  .-^ai''iiak'- 

rr. 
!.'•,'  .A'lU'  .'Si'a'iiiii. 
H  Mariiii's,  iiicltidiiu  "-'  ."^1  rji'aiit.-:. 

08   'i'otal  oil  iiuald. 

The  most  remarkable  teatnre  in  this  ex|)editioii  is, 
that  LfKi  rKNANr  I'aiuiv.  havitiij;  heen  selected  to  the 
eonnnand  of  it  tor  the  |)nrpose  of  carryini:;  into  elieet  tiie 
instructions  whicli  Koss.  from  misiipprehension.  in(htler- 
(Mice.  or  incapacity,  had  tailed  to  do,  shonid  have  heen 
sent  out  as  a  lieutenant  only,  in  wiiic  h  )ank  he  contin- 
ued lor  iieafly  two  years    h.-fore   lie   obtained  ihat  of 


I'Aiiiu  rf  rius'i-  V()Y  \(.i:. 


()3 


\ 


E. 


'ttr/h/rrsf  P^/.s-s'- 
\V.  i:.  I'auuv, 

ico  WfVP  tlio 
■n"!  c(»iiiiuaii(l- 


II.   1.1'  i|f.  ColliMl  • 

ipriir.  Lifutfiiiiiit. 
rltv,  A.->ist.  ."^urL'. 


litl.s.il     ""•" 


m,  (lirk. 
otty  OffirerH. 


'\|)('(litl(>H  W, 
fctod  to  lllti 
lit(»  ctrt'ct  tliH 
si(»ii.  iiidiHt'i- 

|l|    llMVC     l»)'fll 

ik  lit'  cuiitiii- 
iK'il  that   of 


(•(iiiiiiKiiiiIrr:  \vliil»;  flu"  latl«>r,  fen*  nn  iiii|)rnfitiil)lf  vdVMiiM 
n|'  >r\rti  »iiiiiirit'r  liKHitlis.  Wiis  Milvaiict'd  at  (Hicr  In  tlio 
IMlik  nl'ca|ilaili  wliy,  is  hrst  kiiiiwii  tu  tliusf  \vli(i  cidi- 
Irri  (I  It.  ALiiiiti:  l/initi'iiaiit  I'any  pniciwdnl  mi  tlii.s 
srciiiid  Mivanf  utdixcuvcry  witli  tin-  laiiU  or  I'llc  (inly  ol" 
/if  III/ iifiiit  rn/iiiiii/)i(//iia\  i\U(\  (\\i\  not  (ilitaii'Mlir  next  strp 
till  tlic  Hfh  dt"  NmvciiiIm'I'.  1  Jii.  hcinu  tlicii  alistMit.  On 
tlic  same  day,  and  wliilf  in  the  service  <it'  the  ('xpcdiliur), 
Lii'iitfiiatit  Liddmi.  lii-^  xfcoiid  in  ciinimand,  \va«<  also 
inadi'  rniiiiiiandfr,  in  \vlii(di  rank  lit-  ^till  rcnriins  on  tlio 
list  i>\'  naval  ul'licfis. 

Liii  iKv  wr  i»K.i:rni:v"s  sr/vicrs  liav«»  idiN-ady  hpon 
i.iii'iitidiH'd  :  and  llni'i'Mii  continnrd  to  srrvc  as  lirn- 
tt'iiant  in  tin-  llrcla  on  I'arry's  srcdnd  vnyatii'.  and  nn 
the  lliiid  was  appoiiitt'd  (•niiiniandci-  nl'tlu'  sccnnd  ship, 
the  I"' my. 

NiAsand  |{  iin  wrrc  prn;nnt«'d  tn  thf  rank  nl"  lit'iitt-n- 
aiits  nn  tht^  second  vnya^f.  and  scrvnl  in  I'iiny's  ship. 

Skt'iM'.  Knss,  and  tinslinan  were  in  the  tirst  vnyauf, 
and  so  were  Alrxaiidcr  I'isiicr,  iissistant  sni^cnii,  and! 
Jaint's  I  Inlsn,  clerk. 

'I'liere  (;aii  lie  luit  nlie  npiliimi  as  to  the  view  in  wlii(di 
the  report  nrc'ajjtaiii  Koss  was  cnii>idered  liy  the  iinanl 
ot'  Admiralty,  were  it  tn  he  inl'eireil  nnly  t'roni  the  in- 
sfrnciions  ^isentoliis  snccessor,  Lieut.  \Villiain  lidward 
J'arry.  in  which  the  examination  oi'  the  ^reat  and  open 
hav.  Sir  .iaines  Lancaster's  Somid,  was  ordered  tn  he 
considered  a-;  the  fi rsl  and  iiios/  jxirliciihi r  oliji  ft  ol'  his 
voyam* :  and.  moreover,  not  sncceedinu  in  that  direction, 
to  examine  Aldernian  .lones's  Scniiid  and  that  ol"  Sir 
Thomas  .Smith,  neither  of  wITadi  had  been  exam ned, 
nor  ev»'n  entered,  'ly  the  coimnaiider  ol"  the  lat»;  expti- 
dition. 

The  two  ships  or<lere(|  to  he  I'ltted  out  ioi"  this  expe- 
«li'tion- -^the  I  h'cla,  a  liomh  ol"  ;w .")  t<»ns.  and  the  (iriper.  a 
ynn-hriii-  were  taken  into  dock  tor  ri'pairs  and  streii::th- 
eiiin^f,  and  the  ( Jripi'r  Nt  t*e  raised  as  early  as  the  midilirt 
of"  i)eceiii)..'r ;  and  on  the  |(ith  of  .lamiarv,  1  ^I !».  Lien- 
tenant  i'ioKy  was  appmnted  to  the  command  of  the  for- 
mer and  ot'  the  expediti(»n.  and  Lieutenant  Liddon  to  tho 
latter.  The  suliordinate  lientenaiits  of  the  two  ships 
were.  !•'.   W.  Tx-echey  to   the   llerhi.  and   II.   I'.  I(npi). 


U 


1^ 


I, 


61 


ARCTIC    VOVAOErf. 


nor  to  tlio  (iripcv,  hntli  liiiNiny  scrvj'd  on  tlu^  Into  ox|)(>- 
(litiuii:  live  iiii(l>ln|)i)ifii  to  ilic  lijiiiior  sliip,  Niiis,  Doaly, 
I'liliin'f,  (  hiikc  Kuss.  IJiisliiiHii :  iiiid  to  llic  liilttr,  iJircf, 
Kfid,  Ski'iio.  iiml  .\olsoii  (irillillis.  ('iiptiiiii  Siibiiu;,  ol' 
tlio  l\()\  ill  Aitillcrv.  joiiiod  tlio  oxpj'ditioii  as  u><tn)ii(»iii«'r, 
and  to  have  cliai'uo  dt' tin*  inaLriiftical  olisorvatiuns  to  In* 
iiiadr  (»ii  the  vnya'ic.  'J'lio  lli'cla  liad  a  siiriiooii.  an 
fi.Nsistant  siirucon,  and  u  pursor  ;  tlic  (Jripcr  an  assi>tanl 
surutMMi  !,iiid  a  clt'ik.  Tilt'  uarrali\t'  «»l  this  voyuL;*'  lius 
supijliod,  lor  the  interests  ol"  science  and  i:ettiiiapliy, 
ninnerons  and  iinpoitant  liicls  and  oliservatiuns,  and, 
ul)o\e  all,  has  opened  the  door  to  the  discovoiy  ol  the 
main  ohject,  the  Northwest  Passable.  "In  this  work,'' 
it  has  been  said.  ••  we  lind  no  display  ot'  self-iinpoi'tance. 
no  attempt  to  deceive,  or  to  throw  dnst  in  the  eyes  (»!' 
the  |)nlilic  ;  no  niiir\ clous  sKtries  to  dis^nst  or  conlound. 
and  make  tlio  iiiiioi-aiit  stare  ;  no  liunies  set  down  al 
I'andom  ;  no  chart-lines  drawn  (/</  l/h/finii  :  no  repiv- 
senlations  of  ohjects  the  more  l"anci«'s  ol'  the  brain  ;  Siit, 
on  tb.e  contrary,  a  plain  stateniont  of  tacts  and  occnr- 
I't'iices,  and  a  detail  of  scient ilic  observations,  maile  With 
iininipeachable  accuracy,  and  recorded  in  tho  cleari'?(L 
and  most  sinipb'  and  unallect<'(l  lanunauo." 

( )n  th«'  11th  of  Alay  the  ships  left  tho  river,  and  (tn  the 
'J-^lli  ol'.lnnewere  abont  the  middle  of  the  entrance  into 
|)avis"s  Strait,  proceeding  to  tho  northward  aloiiii  the 
v(\'j.r  of  tln">  ice,  and  between  it  and  tho  WJ'storn  coast 
of  (Ireenland,  and  on  tins  M  of  July  crossed  tho  Arctic. 
( "ir(  le,  ha\  inii;  on  that  day  passed  at  least  lifty  iceberizs  of 
lariio  dimensions;  and  on  the  follow i nil  day  ii  more  ex- 
tended chain  of  a  lai'iiei"  size,  auninst  whi(di  a  lioavv 
southerly  swell  was  violently  agitated,  •'dashinu;  the 
lo{»se  ice  Willi  tremendous  force,  s(»MU>tiines  I'aised  ;i 
\\  hito  spray  over  tlioiii  to  tlit^  lieinht  of  more  tiian  one 
liundred  feet,  mid,  bein:;  accompanied  with  a  loud  noise 
exactly  resemblinii  the  roar  of  distant  thunder,  presenle(l 
a  scene  at  once  sublime  and  terrilii'."  Uotwoeii  one  ol 
these  iceber:;s  and  a  detached  (loo.  ilriftiiiij;  witii  a  south- 
erly curiHMit,  the  llecla  had  nearly,  as  the  whalers  call 
it,  been  '•  nipped,"  that  is  to  say,  s(piee/,e(|  llat.  The 
heru  was  about  one  hundreil  and  forty  feet  hiidi.  mid 
iiiironnd  in  oiu^  hundred  and  twenty  I'athonis,  so  that  its 
whole    hei'Jlt     prob.iblv    (\t  ceded    el, lit    hundred    tool. 


(»    Into    «'X|)()- 

Niiis.  I)»'iily, 
liitttr,  tJiiTf, 
ti  Siil)iiit\  (it' 

(isti'onoiiu'i', 
viitioiis  to  lio 

sur^roii,  ail 
'  an  assist  nut 
s  voyaut!  lias 
i^ciim  apliy, 
nations,  and. 
ovny  (»r  tlif 
this  work,'' 
-iinportaiic*'. 

tht'  ryos  ot 

iir  conrouiKl, 
st't  down  al 
I, :  no  re  I  )!•«■- 
L?  i)rain  ;  '<iit, 
^  and  occur- 
s.  niadd  with 

tlu'  cIcari'sL 

T.  and  on  tho 
(Mitfaiic*'  into 
I'd    aloiii;  tlio 
rC'stfi'ii  coast 
(1  thf  Arctic, 
icflx'i'iis  ol 
a  more  cx- 
i(  li   a  heavy 
idashinu;   thti 
lies    raised    a 
hre  tiian  oiio 
|a  loud  iMtisn 
'r.  |>rcs('nled 
kv»M>n  one  ol 
jvitii  a  south 
Iwhalers  call 
Hat.      'I'll.- 
•t    hiidi,  and 
;.  so  that  its 
iiidrcd    teel. 


PARRY  .S    riR.-T    VoYAi.i:. 


05 


On  the  ,'lst  tlie  land  calltMl,  hy  Davis.  '•  Hope  Sander- 
fsdii."  and  also  the  "Woman's  rslaiiil,"  were  seen;  and 
'•we  I'oiind  oin-s«dves,"  says  I'arry,  "in  the  midst  of  a 
vfiiit  MiMiilier  ol' very  liiiih  iceheriis.  (tf  which  I  coiintetl, 
t'liiiii  the  crow's  ne>t,  ei,i;hty-»Mi;ht,  besides  many  smaller 

<»lie«>." 


pfiieiice  ol  IMC  lormer  voya'j^e  niuiiceo  mm  lo  iieiie\«) 
lie  <lioiild  find  on  the  opposite  coast  ;  it  tooU  liim,  liow- 
I'ser.  seven  days'  sailiiij^;.  trackiiii:  and  war|)in:i  occasiiui- 
all\.  to  iiet  into  o|)en  water,  the  width  ot"  the  harrier 
lii'iim  not  less  than  eiuhty  miles  :  hut  the  iiaviiiatioii 
.-iiiioiiL'  lielrls  and  tloes  ot'  this  kind  is  more  teilioiis  thiiii 
^laiiL'croiis.  Ha\iiii:  ijot  into  the  open  stream,  the  water 
here  was  I'oiind  to  ha\e  rlci'pened  so  much  that  no  hot- 
tiiin  was   ohtaiiied  with  three   Imndred  and  ten  fathoms 


tiiin  was  ohtaiiied  with  three  Imndred  and  ten  lathoms 
nt'  line,  no  ice  in  any  direction,  and  the  temperature  of 
the  water  had  risen  iVom  :\]  to  .'17  .  \\'liales,  too, 
Avere  ahimdaiit.  no  less  than  eii;hty-two  lari^e  ones  heing 
coiiiili'd  in  till"  course  ot'tii.    day. 

I'an\  observes,  that  '•  if  any  j)roof  wore  wantiiiix  of 
tlie  value  of  liwal  knowledi:e  in  the  naviij;ation  of  tJie  l*o- 
Jar  Seas,  it  would  he  amply  furnished  by  th>  fact  of  our 
having:  now  reached  the  entrance  of  Sir  .fames  Laiicns- 
ter's  Sound  just  one  month  earlier  than  we  had  done  in 
I  - 1  -.  altlioiiL:h  we  had  then  sailed  above  a  fm'tniuht  soon- 
er, with  the  same  iieiieral  object  in  view,  namely,  to  peii- 
etiate  to  the  western  coast  of  IhitTni's  Ihiy.  where  alone 
the  northwest  passaize  was  now  siipjiosed  to  be  sought, 
liir  and  liuiiid."  He  omits,  however,  one  impoi-tant, 
(  aii-e  of  his  «'aily  a|)])roach  to  i.ancaster  Sound — that  of 
taking  the  shortest  I'oiile.  instead  of  cii"climHavii;atilii; 
Jiallin's  lliiy.  ( >n  the  .''.1st  a  pai1y  landed  at  tlie  spot 
they  lia<l  visited  the  precediiiij  year,  when  Iwaiicaster 
."^(imiil  was  abandoned.  The  llau-stalf  was  still  standing; 
the  i.'i(]iiiid  free  from  ice  or  snow  :  tin*  marks  of  their 
shoes  as  fresh  as  if  imprinted  but  a  few  davs  beforo — a 
circiiiiistiiitce  which  led  I'airy  to  conclmle  that  liltl«  or 
i;o  bleet  or  ,>.iiow  had  I'allen  since  Ids  foi-mer  visit. 


\ 


II . 


ll: 


60 


ARC'jrC  VOVAfiKd. 


Oil  tin-  1st  (if  AiiLMist  lli(>  sliips  ciitrrcd  upon  tlinf  por- 
tion of  llic  vuviit:)'  which  Wiis  to  (Ictrriniiic  thi'  success 
or  liiilinf  of  the  cxpfdilioii  -  thiil  iim^iiilict'iit  piece  ot 
^\ilt^'|•  culled  Sir  .lumes  ljiuiciist«'r's  SoiiikI.  An  cjisterly 
hree/e  iiii<l  a  crowd  ol'  suil  canied  the  ships  rapidiv  to 
the  wcstwiinl.  (  >ii  the  iiioniiiii;  ot' Uk'  Jd.  it  heiiii;  caliii. 
soiiiidiii;;s  were  tiiUeii  with  th»»  dei-p  sea  ('iaiiis,  and  one 
thousand  and  lillv  I'aliionis  liy  the  lin«i  w»Te  lound  ;  hut 
the  diilt  heiii^  considerahle  oil  account  ot*  the  swell,  I'ai- 
ry  helieves  that  the  depth  ot"  water  did  not  exceed  eii.dit 
or  nine  hundred  latluuns.  The  sea  was  open  heloic 
them,  iVee  I'roiii  ice  and  land.      Lieutenant  I'arry  says, 

"  It  is  iiKire  easy  tn  iiii!e,'iiie  lliaii  to  de-crihe  the  almost 
hit'iillile<s  anxiety  which  was  now  \i>ihle  in  eve|-\'  couiitf- 
liaiice,  while,  a.«.  the  hree/f^  increased  to  a  tresh  trale,  we  nm 
»|uicklv  lip  tile  >oiiiid,  'I'he  mast  lic.-ids  were  crowded  hv 
till'  iil1iri'i'>  and  iiii'ii  iliiriiiL'  the  whole  atteriiooii ;  and  an 
iiiicom  I  rin'd  oli~ei\er,  it  ;iiiy  ciiiild  li,i\e  heeii  luicoiK'eriinl 
on  .-•iich  iiii  octMsion,  would  li;i\e  hern  amii>t'd  hv  the  eaL'ef- 
Hess  w  itii  \\  liich  till-  v;iriiiiis  leports  from  the  crow  "s  nest  wen' 
meived,  all  however  liillnTto  tavorahle  to  our  ino>t  sanuu- 

ilir   l|o|ieS." — I'.  :i  I  . 

They  were  soon  relieved  I'roin  their  tinxiety  rospect- 
iiiy  tlu'  supposed  continuity  of  land,  which  had  heen  stal- 
ed in  the  most  peremptory  manner  to  extend  across  tlir 
hoMoiii  ol'this  mai:nilii-ent  inlet  in  which  they  were  sail- 
in  li ;  liavinii  reached  the  longitude  ot"  .'-^.'!  1"J',  tlu^  twn 
shores  here,  the  north  and  south,  were  still  thirteen 
leaL;ues  apart,  willnnit  tlie  slightest  appearance  of  aiiv 
land  to  the  wi'stward  ot"  them.  They  had  now  advanced 
to  what  I'ariy  has  calleil  Harrow's  Strait,  previous  In 
which,  how»'\er,  he  had  named  a  lari:e  o|)eniini  <"'  the 
northern  shore  ( 'roUer's  Inlet,  *•  l.'einy  anxious  to  seize.  " 
says  a  wauuisli  critic,  ••  as  it  wcudd  seem,  the  earliest  op- 
portunity ot'  makiiiii  some  (•(Miipensation  ti)r  liavini:  tniiis- 
ioriiieil,  as  with  a  touch  ot  I  larleipiin's  waiid,  the  nia_'- 
nilicent  and  insiiperahle  raim(>  ot"  mountains  which  a  t"oi- 
liier  expedition  had  assiiiiied  to  one  .'^"ecretary  ot"  tlie  Ad- 
niiralty.  into  a  hroad  and  uninterrupted  passage,  heaiiiii; 
liie  name  ot"  the  other  Secretaiv."  '  We  now  heijan  to 
/latter  (Mirselves,"  says  I'arry  .  ••that  we  had  fairly  en- 
tt'fod   the  l*i»lai"  Sea,  and  .so/no  ot"  the  tnost  .sanuuiiiv 


'1 


iipnii  flint  |»f)r- 
Ih'  till'  silccrssi 
lic«'lil  piece  (»r 
1.  An  ciisterly 
hips  riipidly  Ik 
I.  it  heilii:  ciillri, 
(-laiiis.  ami  niic 
■re  toiiiid  ;  lint 
the  swell,  Tiir- 
»t  exceed  eiulit 
IS  open  hettiif 
It  l*any  says, 

rilte  till-  Jilniii-t 
II  evci-\-  cnuiiti'. 
'sii  i;;ile,  we  ran 
•re  ctdwdi'd  liv 
'riinitii ;  :iiid  au 
I'M  iiiicoMi  enicd 
•d  l»y  the  eai.'er- 
row's  liesl  were 
iiur  niiKst  s;iiiuu- 

ixi«'ty  res|)e(l- 

had  heeii  stat- 

eiid  iicruss  the 

hey  were  sail- 

i-J'.  the  two 

'    still    thirteen 

araiice    nl"  iiiiv 

now  advanced 

it,  previous   t(i 

ipeiiini:  on  the 

ions  to  sei/.e.  " 

he  earliest  np- 

r  having  tratis- 

and,  the  nia'4- 

is  which  a  |or- 

ary  of"  tin'  Ad- 

issai^e,  heaiiii:,' 

now  hei^an  tn 

lad  laii'ly  eii- 

II lost  sanguiii'J 


I'AUIIV  S    riKST    VOVAt.i:. 


67 


ainiiiiL'  ii-'  liad  even  calculated  the  'learin::  ""id  distamo 
nt  lev  <  'ape.  as  a  matter  ot  no  \t'\\  diiticiiit  or  iniproba- 
l»lo  ac(oinpli>hiiient." 

|»ut  in  an  icy  sea,  and  iiaue  especially  in  narrow  passa- 
f:es   interrupted   hy   inlands,  ureal    uncertainty    must    al- 
WJivs  |)re\ail.      ilasinu    pas>ed    liaridw's  Strait,  a  small 
island  occurrt'd,  hetweeii    which   and   the    shore    to    the 
noithward  a  tloe  of  ice  was  t'ound  to  extend.      As  this 
line  hlocUed  up  the    passa;^,.  to  the  wi-stward,  and  they 
here  notice(|  a  lar::e  opening'  that  appeared  on  the  south- 
ern coa>t.   I'arrv  thoui:lit  11  hetter  to  proceed  to  the  ex- 
amination of  It  tliaii  to  remain  lor  an  indeli:iile  period  idl<) 
III  the  western  pa>>ai;e.      It  wa>  Imnid  to  he  ten  leagues 
wide  at  the  iiioulh,  and  no  land  M>iiile  in  the   line  ol    its 
southern  <hrectioii.      lie  stood  down  an  open  channel  of 
water  on  the  eastern  side  alon<;  the  e(|'_'e  ol"  ice  that   oc- 
cupieil  the    miildle  of  the  siiail.  and   hopes   were  eiiter- 
taineil   that    it    mi^ht    lead    them    nearer  to  the  coast    of 
America  than  Harrow's  Strait,  and  if  so,  to  a  lower  tle- 
;;iee   of  latitude,  in  which    it    iiii::lil    lie   advaiitaueous  to 
make  theii'  pa>-->ai;e  to  IJidirinu's  Strait.      And  as  the  in- 
let  increased    in  width    as   they  proceeded   to  the  south- 
ward, it  was  calculated  to  raise  their  hopes  uii  this  score ; 
liiit.  to  their  i:reat  disappointment,  the  disappearance  of 
land  to  the  southwest,  and  its  place  supplied  Iin'  a  harrier 
of  ice  lieyond  which  no  water  was  in  si^ht,  delerniiiied 
Tarry  to  return  to  Harrow's  Strait.      To  the  inlet  he  left 
he  i:a\t'  the  name   ot"   I'liiice    Ke^ent,  haviiiu  entered  it 
on   his   royal   hi^ihiiess's    hirthday,    the    I'Jth    of  Anirnst. 
To  a  liay  on  its  eastern  shore  he  i:a\e  the  name  of  Port 
ihtweii.    The  latitude  of  the  soulhernniost  jioint  lo  which 
he    had    |)roceeiled   was    71       .').';'   ."Id",   lon^'itude,  I'd      O.'i' 
1')   .  and  the  distance  ironi  its  entrance  about    TJI)  miles. 
It  had  lieen  observed  that,  from  tli(>  moment  tliev  eiiter- 
eil  liancaster  Sound,  the  motion  of  the  coiiipass-needb^ 
was  very  slu;,f;:ish,  and  both  this  and  its  deviation  incrtvis- 
rd  as  they  |)idceeded  to  the  westward,  and  continued  to 
do  so  in  descciidiiiir  this  inlet.      llaviiiLi;  i-eacdied  latitii<li> 
7.'i   .••  they  witnessed  t"or  the  lirst  time  the  curious  phe- 
nonienon  ot"  the  directive  power  of  the   nee(l!e  becoiiiiii;.; 
So  weals  as  to  be  coiii|)Ietely  overcome  by  the  attraction  of 
the  ship,  so  that  the   needli*  iiii>:lit  now  bu  said  to   puijit 
to  the  imrtli  jioje  of  the  shij)." 


\ 


I 

■I 


!  > 


■1 


\ 


OS 


Aiurn;  vi.v\(;r-!. 


It  WHS  tlic  I'ttli  ul"  .\iii;iist  lii'lur'c  flu'V  ir.'iiin  rciiclicil 
tlir  iinitlii'iii  slinic  nl'  I  >iii  row's  Sliiiit.  ainl  tumid  the  ici- 
still  iciiiiiinin.;  iiriMiinl  Lcnpnirs  UIhihIs.  yrt  iml  iiiipiissa- 
l)lc  ;  liiit  Mil  tliiil  iiml  llic  tolNiwiiiu  diiy  the  wciitlicr  \V!i> 
tliick.  jiimI  iiiiirli  siiow  had  jnlli'ii.  TlifV  imw.  nn  the 
lilst.  had  tlic  salisliictinii  ol'  tiiKhiii'  iiothiir^  tu  inti'mipl 
thric  prn^ifss  tu  the  wotw  aid.  Thi-  msi  was  cntiifK 
rice  tiniii  Hc.  and  "so  pcrtrrt Iv  rlcar,  that  it  was  al 
iiKtst  iiMpiis'^ihli'  to  hdifvc  it  tn  In-  tlir  saiiii-  part  mI'  the 
st-a  winch.  Idit  a  day  or  two  Im'Iiiit.  had  Imtii  cninplcti'- 
|\  CDVcrrd  with  (lues  to  tilt'  lltliiost  cslfiit  ol'oiir  Njcw." 
Oil  the  cvrniii^  ot'  tin-  '^Jil.  after  pa->-<iiii.'  scvrral  liavs 
:iiid  headlands  on  the  northern  shore,  they  came  lieloie 
the  month  ol  a  chaiiind  ol  more  than  ei::hl  lea^nes  m 
u'idlh.  looUiii^  np  w'nieh.  on  a  heantilnl  clear  e\enin::. 
neither  land  ii(n'  ice  could  he  seen  Iroiii  the  mast  heail. 
'•  To  tins  iiolile  chantiel.""  says  |'ari\  ,  ••  I  ::a\e  the  naiiir 
ol'  W'elliniiton,  alter  Ins  yrace,  the  inajiter-;;eiieral  ot  the 
nrdnance." 

'■  'I'lie  anl\  ;il  ol]'  this  i.'r;nid  (i|M'iiiii_'  w  ;i>  an  e\iiil  tiir  \\  hi(  li 
we  liiid  Ion:.'  Iiirii  Iciiikiii^'  with  iinich  aii\iet\-  and  iinpi- 
tieiiie;  lor  llie  ( mil  iiiuits  o|'  l.iiid  to  the  iioriliw  a  I'd  had  al- 
\\a\>  lieeii  a  xmrce  of  inieaMiie>-  to  n».  priiicipallv  Irom  IIh' 
jio>slhilitv  llial  it  iniu'lit  lake  a  turn  In  the  suiitliuard,  ami 
unite  with  the  r  oa^t  nt  Vnieiica.  'i"he  appearance  of  tlii^ 
hriiad  opeiiiiiL'.  tree  Iroin  ice.  and  ot  the  land  on  each  >idc  el 
it.  nmic  e^pecialK  thai  on  the  ue>t,  lea\  iic_;  -carcclv  a  dmilii 
on  oin  minds  ot  llie  lalter  hciiiL.'  an  inland  rclie\'ed  us  liom 
all  anxieiv  on  liial  -core;  and  c\ei\  one  lilt  that  we  \\cii' 
iio\%  tiiialK  di-ciitaiii.'led  t)'(nn  the  land  wliich  fuiiii-  the  \se-i- 
rru  side  of  liallin'.--  I^ay  ;  and  that,  in  fict.  we  had  actnallv 
«'iilcrcd  tlie  I'ulai-  Sea.  I'nllv  impi'e--ed  with  llii>  idea.  I 
\eiilnieil  to  (li.■^tinu'ni-ll  tiie  niau'iiiliceiit  opening',  ihron.Ji 
\\hli  h  onr  pas^ajo  Ji'id  hi-en  cllected  fioin  'lalliii's  Ha\  In 
\VeHinL'ton  ('haniiol,  hy  the  name  ot'  lliirrow'^  Strait,  alter 
my  friend  .\lr.  Harrow  ,  secretarv  of  llie  \diniiahv,  holii  a.>  a 
private  testininiiy  ol  my  esteem  for  that  ijenllenian  and  a--  a 
jmhlic  acknowledu'ineiil  dm-  to  iiini  for  Id.-,  zeal  and  e.\ertioii> 
in  the  promotion  of  norllnrn  d:--t  o\  er\ ." — 1'.  ."» I ,  .V.'. 

lie  then  ptiys  the  c(mipliiiieiit  of  assii;nin'_f  to  the 
rajies.  inlets,  and  uron|)s  ot"  islands  the  names  of  I  iotham. 
iiarluw,  and  ( 'oi  nwallis  ;   and  u'tcs  mi  l(»  say  : 

"  TljeiiL'h  two  thinl-s  vt'  thi'  inonlli  of  Auu'i;-!  had  now  elnpv- 


i 


lUiiiii   rciirlicil 

I'tdiiul  till-  ici! 

t  IHll    illlllil'-SU- 

WCIlllltT   NV1I> 

IIMNV.    (til      tilt- 

.;   lo   llit«'nil|)t 

,  WHS  nitin'ly 

lilt     it    \\!IS    lll- 

if  piirt  (it   till' 

'CM  ii»lll|-l<'tr- 

nl"  uiir  \  it'W." 

[  scvt'iiil   liiiys 

^    CIIIIK'    Ih'IiiIi- 

lilt  iciimit's  III 

clciir  i'Ncninu. 
lie  iii;i>l  lifiiil. 
>s,[\{-  tin'  iiiiiiii' 

■  lirili'lill  nt   tilt' 

rvrlil  I'lir  U  lli<  ll 
ii'tv  mill  impi- 
ihwunl   Ii;hI  :iI- 

■i|»;illv    tVtilll    till' 

Miulliuiird,  itiiil 
r;ii:iliir  "i|  tlli^ 
nil  clicll  >ul<'  >'l 
.(■;n(fK   ;i  (liHilii 

■(•ricNrcl  ll-<  tl'ilii 
t|i;il  \\  (■  SMT.- 
nin-  tin-  \m'-I- 

r    lill.l    lli'tllMlly 

til  llii>  i<l«'ii.  I 
III  ML.',  tliniii.:li 
liilliii's  Hiiy  In 
■>  Siniit.  fit'ltr 
■iillv,  l)nlli  ;i>  I 
(  111:111  ;illil  il-  :i 
mil  rxcrt'mii^ 

iiiiiiiit:    to   tln> 
>s  of  i  lothiiiii. 

;iy  : 
i;id  now  t'liii»- 


I'  \\IU\  rf    FIRST    VOVACF. 


(59 


(■(I.  1  liftil  cvtrN  ifMxiii  I"  Ik  ■'.'iti^liid  with  tin'  iumlti'— .  \\«« 
l|;iil  hitiiiTlii  lliiiil''.  I  <illinl:il''il  il|">li  till-  -<  ;i  lii'ilii;  -.Iill  liiiv- 
ij.ililr  liir  >i\  Nsi'ilx"  I"  <i>iin',  mill  |>riili.il>l\   iii<ii<'.  it  llir  -i.iic 

111  IJH'   ire  wmiiil    |><'lllill   Mr.  tii  riLc  ilVN;iS    In   lln'  -i  ml  li  W  :inl    III 

mil  |iiii_'ii'»  v\r>i«'ii\  :  I'lir  |iri»|iri  N.  iiiilfiil.  wiir  iniK  ix- 
Ihl.if.itiii:: ;  Mil-  >lii|i>  li.nl  Mitli'ii'il  iiii  iiijuix  ;  ur  liiiil  |il«  nty 
III' iHiiv  ioimi- ;  (  ri'u  ■<  in  IiIl'Ii  IiciIiIi  aini  >|iiiit-<;  a  x-.i.  it  imt. 
•  <|ii'ii.  Mt  1i"i>t  ii:i\  i.;ilili'  ;  iiinl  ;i  /•'.'iliiii>  .'iinl  iiiiiiiiiiii)>ii>  ili'tci-- 
iiiiiiiit:  III  in  liiitli  iillii  IT-  iinil  iinii  In  in<niiipli-li,  liy  ;ill  ims- 
mMi-  iinims,  tin-  LTiiinl  nliiict  im  wliicli   \\r  li;iil  llii'  liiippi- 

III'--,  tn   lir  i'lli|i|n\  rcl    " 1'.   .»•.'. 

It  is  (li'll'.'llltill  to  (Iwfll  ll|i()M  siM'li  inyful  hopes,  |)ros- 
prets.  iiliil  -ill  iNliict  inn  iis  iiin  f\  p?f>^t'(|  in  tilt'  Icilllx  nl 
till-  piiNxau'".  !iliil  III  tin'  ciiiiix'  o|  il  \n\!iL;t'  ol  so  iiovrl, 
M)  pt'i'ilniis.  anil  '«o  pii'rai'ions  a  iiatiirt'  as  this.  It  ix  a 
pi»t  ami  wi'll-(li'-i-i-\t'il  ('niiipliiiii'iit  pa:)l  liy  a  wiiliT  in  11 
pfi'ioilical  jniii'iiiil,  who  says  that,  "  alter  ii  most  atteii- 
liM'  pi'ni>al.  we  ran  roiilidenf ly  say.  that  ti'W  lionUs  siiiee 
the  rniiiiiienreiiient  ol°  oni°  lahoi'N  Ii!i\e  allnnleil  ns  iiioit^ 
tn  praise  nf  less  to  eeiisiiie.  ami  that  imt  one  has  iii- 
-piieil  lis  With  liiol'e  respect  for  the  ehaiaeter  of  its  au- 
thnr." 

The  e\pei|itioil  coiitililied  to  proceed  Westerh',  hilt 
made  only  s|nw  |)id'_'ress  on  iiccoimt  ol"  the  detached 
lines  III  lie  and  lni:i:y  Weather.  To  the  nort  h\\  aid.  as 
lar  a»  could  he  seen.  llie  land  was  appaieiilK  coniposrd 
ol'  cl  I  liters  ol'  islands.  To  the  West  \\  aid  the  sea,  I'or  the 
mn-^t  pari.  wascn\ered  With  a  compact  hod\'  of  ice,  \  el 
a  channel  was  npen  Inr  the  shi|)s  hetWeeii  it  and  tim 
shore,  Hn  leachin;:  Sir  ilyaiii  Martin's  Island,  thn 
nearest  to  .N|el\il|e  Island,  (  "aptaiii  Saluiie  and  Mr. 
.lames  lloss,  acciimpaiiied  hy  Messrs.  Kdwards  ami 
l''isher.  were  di-|)al(lii'il  on  shore  tu  iiiaUe  the  neces- 
siiry  ohseiA  ill  ions,  and  It  examine  and  cnlleii  specimens 
ol'  the  natural  prndiictioiis  ol"  the  coimtr\'.  Tliese  oili- 
cers  repnrted.  on  their  return,  that  they  landed  nn  n 
sandy  heach  near  the  east  point  ol'  the  island,  which 
they  loimd  to  iie  more  prodiictise  and  alto;:etlier  morn 
interesting  than  any  other  part  of  the  shori's  of  the  I'olar 
ie:.'ioiis  that  had  yet  heeii  \  isited.  Kemaiiis  id'  l"".s(|ui- 
miinx  haliitalioiis  were  rniind  in  t'mir  diHerriit  places  ; 
smile  ol  them  consisted  ot'  stones  riidel\  planned  in  11 
circular  lorm,  and  were  from  seven  to  ten  feet  in  diaiu- 


il 


.1 


1 


^aj 


..* 


^% 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


m 


A 


4is 


_>       A^    %    M 


^ 


^i*^ 


& 
^ 


% 
^ 


1.0    fM  IIIIIM 


I.I 


1.25 


I  ^  IS 
I  itf  IIIIIM 

1.6 


1.4 


vQ 


c^l 


°%  '> 


c% 


.'>/' 


^ 


^^ 


o 


7 


Photographic 

Sdences 
Corporation 


33  WESr  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  NY.  14580 

(716)  872-4503 


4!j 


i^.. 


70 


ARCTIC    VOYAGErf. 


eter;  trncfs  of  rcliidt'er  and  nmsk-nxon  wero  soen  in 
ii.fiiiy  sitiiiitioiis  ;  tlio  raviiics  wcvc:  covered  wilh  liixu- 
I'lfiiit  moss  imd  otlior  voiictiitioii,  flio  cliiirfictcr  ot"  which 
dilffi-od  very  little  iVoiii  that  at  the  hottoiii  ot"  I*osso.ssioii 
JJay-  MMie  basis  of  tlie  isliiiid  consisted  chiefly  of  sand- 
stone, Ix'sides  Nvhich  were  souk^  rich  granite  and  red 
feldspar.  Tlio  latitude  of  tin;  place  of  observation  was 
7o"  09'  23  ",  and  tlie  lon<;itnd(5  HJ'.P  44'  'iT";  thi;  dip  of 
tii(>  HiaiitKjtic  needle  Hri  '^o  ori" ;  and  the  variation  was 
now  lonnd  to  have  chanifed  I'roni  l'2fi^  o8'  IV.,  in  tlio 
longitude:  of  iJi^  4H'  (wIku'o  the  last  oi)hen'ntions  on 
shore  had  been  made?),  to  1()5 '  ot)'  09"  E.,  at  their 
])resent  station;  "so  that  W(5  iiad,"  says  Pany,  "in 
sailing  ovm*  the  space  iiu;lu(ted  btftween  those  two  me- 
ridians, crossed  innnediately  to  the  northward  of.  tho 
Magnetic;  J*ole,  and  had  undoubtedly  passed  over  out;  of 
tiiose  spots  upon  tlu;  ^dobe  where  the  needle  would  have 
l)eon  found  to  vary  IHO^,  or,  in  other  words,  where  tho 
Noilh  Pole  would  have  pointetd  to  the  south."  In  point 
of  fact,  though  from  the  weakness  and  slugyish  jierform- 
nnc(!  of  the  nee(lles  observations  that,  re(|uired  great 
nicety  could  not  be  deixiiided  on,  yet  Parry  thinks  that 
one  of  tlujse  spots  he  alludes  to  would  at  that  time  havo 
been  somewiierc^  not  far  iVom  tlu^  meridian  of  100'  \V. 
of  (ireenwi(di.  The  "spot  alluded  to"'  was,  of  course, 
the  Magnetic  Pole,  discovered  eleven  years  afttM-  this  by 
Commander  .Tames  Koss,  and  which  is  only  about  two 
or  three  degrees  "from  the  meridian  of  100^  W.  of 
Gi'eenwich." 

"It  would  undoubtedly  have  been  extroniely  inti^'-estinir 
to  obtain  such  an  oljserviition,  and  in  any  other  tliau  the  veiy 
])recMrious  uiivi<.ratiou  in  which  we  were  now  euiraged,  I 
KliDuld  liave  felt  it  niy  duty  to  di'vote  a  certain  time  to  this 
particiilav  purpose;  but,  under  pri'sent  circumstances,  it  was 
impossible  for  nie  to  rci^ret  the  cause  which  alone  had  pn;- 
veiited  iv,  (vspeciiilly  as  the  ini]iortance  to  science  of  this  ol)- 
servatiou  was  not  sutlicieiit  to  conipeusjito  the  delay  which 
the  search  after  such  a  spot  would  necessarily  have  occasioned, 
and  which  could  hardly  be  justilied  at  a  moment  wIkmi  wo 
were  n;akinir,  and  lor  two  or  three  days  continued  to  make, 
a  rapid  and  unobstructed  pro^M'css  toward  the  acconij>lisli- 
ment  of  our  princijial  object." — I',  (iv!. 

It  may  now  be  said  it  was  well  ho  did  not,  as  the  spot, 


ero  seen  in 

Willi    lllMl- 

w  of  which 
f  I'osscssioii 
'dy  of  saiid- 
\U'   and  red 
■rviition  wiis 
;  th(!  dip  of 
ariiiti(Jii  was 
ir.,  in  tiio 
I'rv'itJons   on 
E.,  at  their 
Parry,  "  in 
ISO  two  nie- 
Aiird  of  tlio 
over  one,  of 
',  wonld  havo 
■!,  where;  tlio 
I."     In  point 
;isli  jierforin- 
(juiri'd   great 
y  thinks  lliat 
|at  time  havo 
of lOU^  \V. 
,  of  course, 
ifter  this  l)y 
V  about  two 
100^  W.  of 


inlo'-estinp; 
than  the  veiy 
a-  eiiL'iiircd,  I 
11  time  to  this 

UlCCS,   it    Willi 

lint'  h:id  pre- 

i>  of  this  oh- 

(h'liiy  which 

vc  occasioned, 

lent  when  wo 

led  to  uiiikc, 

e   acconii»hsli- 

,  as  the  spot, 


PARRY  ri    FIRST    VOYAGE. 


71 


since  discovered  hy  ConiniaiKhM"  llos?,  was  then,  as  it 
i)nil)al)iy  still  is,  iiiiapproacliai)le  hy  such  ships  as  thoso 


(it 


anv 


On  the  1st  of  Septeniher  I'airy  inseits  in  his  naira- 
tive  a  tal)le  showiiii:  a  daily  abstract  of  tliC!  monthly 
meteoi-olo^ical  jonriials.  c(tiisistiiiii  of  cohmuis  indicatini; 
tin'  tcnipcratnre  of  the  air  and  the  sea,  state  of  the 
liiiidnietcr.  pi'evi'iliiiiz  winds,  and  jirevailini^  weather; 
and  in  this  form  ;i  talnilar  series  is  repeated  on  the  lirst 
1)1'  «'veiy  month.  Krom  the  one  in  (piestion.  it  appeal's 
that  the  mean  teni])eratni'e  in  An^nist  was.  in  the  shade, 
:>;;  liT'  ;  on  sea  water,  -'ll  '  H.r.  It  wonld  be  desii-ai)!o 
that  such  u  fonn  should  be  kept  uid  made  imperiiti\  e, 
iif  all  times  and  in  all  places,  on  board  every  ship  of  war. 
Tiie  e\pediti(Mi  continued  its  conrse  westerly,  anionj; 
patches  (if  ice  and  in  a  ioiiuy  atmosphere,  {giving  names 
to  sniiill  islands,  bays,  and  headlands  as  they  occurred  ; 
and  on  the  Itli  of  September.  I*arry  ol)serv(>s  : 

'•  We  li;id  tlie  s;iti.--racti()ir oi' K"-(is.-.inL'  the  nieridi,iu  of  J  10^ 
W.  trnni  (ii'eeiiwicli.  in  the  latitude  (ifr  l-  M  "JO  '.  bv  uliich 
liis  iiiiiiestv's  >liiiis  inidec  inv  orders  beciinie  entitled  tn  tli(t 
siiMi  of  live  tbnusand  pninids,  beini.'  llie  reward  ollered  by 
the  kiiii:'s  order  ia  (.'(iini<il.  ".M'oanded  on  a  late  .-ict  of  Vur- 
liaineut,  to  >\n\i  of  his  ni;iie>ly's  sniijects  as  ini:,dit  Micceed  in 
]ii'iien'atini.'  thus  liir  to  the  westward  ^vithill  the  Arctic  Cir- 
cle."—!'. 70. 

To  tilt?  blnff  liead.  where  the  observation  was  mach', 
the  men  <:ave  the  name  of  lioimf!/  Capi,  a  very  appro- 
priate name,  aftm*  the  iiallant  eomma.ider  had  annonnced 
to  them  ofl';<'ially  that  their  exertions  had  so  far  been 
crowned  with  success  as  to  entitle  them  to  this  reward. 

( )n  the  otli  of  September,  after  haviiiii  worked  their 
wiiy  aloiii:  the  southern  coast  (d'tlu!  largest  island  of  tlu^ 
^loup  they  had  recently  passed,  the  boats  landed,  for 
the  second  time,  in  a  bay  wlfudi,  for  its  solllldill^s  and 
shelter,  appeared  the  most  safe  and  convenient  that  had 
occurred  to  aiKdan"  in:  and.  aecordinuly.  the  Jhiy  (d'tlu^ 
Uirhi  and  (I'r/jxr.  so  nam.d  by  Parry,  becaiia*  the  first 
spot  where  the  expediiion  had  dropped  aiadior  since 
leaving  the  coast  of  Xorliilk.  ( "onsiderinij;  the  advanced 
jterioil  ot'  the  year,  it  occurred  to  tlii^  commander  that 
this  place  ajipeared  to  mark,  ui  a  vciy  d(>cided  manner, 


j 
i 
I 


I*' 
i 


12 


ARCTIC    V0VAf;i;3. 


tlic  coinplftioii  of  one  stuiic  of  thcii"  voyfmo.  '•  Tlio  on- 
siuiis  and  pt'iidiiuts  wrir  iioistcd,  and  it  crcalcd  iti  .js 
no  oi'diiiary  foclinus  of  plcasun'  to  sco  tlii^  Uritisli  lla^ 
suviiii;,  for  till'  first  tiiiic,  in  those  rciiions  wliudi  had 
Jiithci'to  hfCM  considcrt'd  Ix'vond  tlic  fnnits  of  \\\i-.  hal)i- 
tahic  world."  I'ariy  uavo  to  this  lai'^i'  island  the  nana? 
oiWIdrillr,  being  thai  of  tho  I'irst  Lord  of  the  Adini- 
laltv. 

Parry  d(^torinined,  lu)W('V(>r,  to  extend  tiieir  opera- 
tions lor  pi'osecutinu  discoveiy  in  thes(^  rcviiions,  tlionjili 
it  heeanie  necessaiy  to  secure  the  shi|)s  every  niu;lit  from 
ten  till  two  o'clock,  when  it  was  too  dark  to  keej)  under 
Avay,  more  especially  as  no  trust  whale\»'r  could  ho 
j)laced  in  the  com|)asses.  Jiut  his  hopes  were  damped 
Avhen.  from  the  crow's  nest,  he  perceived  a  compact 
body  of  ice  exti'ndin<f  completely  ii:  to  the  shore,  n(>ar 
the  point  whicii  formed  tiu"  western  extreme  of  the  isl- 
and :  the  ship^  ran,  liowever,  sutliciently  cIos<>  to  be  as- 
sured that  no  passai;('  to  the  westwaid  could  then  be 
eflected,  the  tloes  being  literally  uj)cai  the  beach,  and 
not  a  di'op  of  clear  water  visible  beyond  them.  Tho 
sliori^  was  covered  neaily  with  large  masses  of  ico 
aground  in  four  or  live  fatlioms  of  wat<'r,  of  which  they 
would  liave  (h'awn  at  least  ten  if  sot  alloat ;  tlu>se  masses 
the  people  wovo  in  the  liabit  of  calling  ljer<>\s,  but  they 
wei'<»  vei'v  dil'fei'ent  to  those  met  with  in  IJaflin's  J>ay, 
none  of  whicli  kind  weri'  seen  to  the  westward  of  Har- 
row's Strait.  'J^he  hMigth  of  the  night,  when  dai-kness 
prevailed  in  seas  such  as  this,  was  little  suited  foi-  j)ros- 
ecuting  discoveries;  yet  as  September  is  considiM'f  i  •) 
most  valuable  month  in  the  year,  on  account  of  tl.i  a 
being  then  more  free  from  ice  than  at  any  othei-  time, 
r*arry  states  his  strong  conviction  that  tlu^  ultimate  ac- 
complishment of  the  object  must  depend,  in  a  gieat 
measure,  on  the  farther  progress  to  be  made  this  sea- 
son, and  tlierefore  he  determined  to  extend  their  oj)era- 
tions  to  the  latest  possible  pcM'iod. 

He  soon,  liowever,  j)ei'ceived  that  the  season  was  at 
an  end.  On  the  9tli  of  September  tlie  does  of  ice  were 
o!)serve(l  to  be  sensibly  aj)i)r()aching  the  shore,  and  mat- 
ters grew  worsen  till  the  x'Jth,  wIkmi  the  ships  were  uc- 
tuuUy  beset  and  in  a  perilous  situation.     Tlieie  was  no 


PARRV  rf    FIR:>T    VOYAGR. 


73 


"  Tlio  on- 

rcalcd  iti  iis 
I'  Uritisli  (liiL^ 
IS  wliuli  liiid 
;  ol'  llic!  lialii- 
111(1  the  luMiio 
i)t'  till!  Admi- 

fiicir   «)[)Ciu- 

liioiis,  thoii^li 

rv  iiiyht  t'ntiii 

()  kct'p  iiiid(M' 

KT   could    l)H 

ivi'i't'  diimpcti 

•d  a  coiiipai't 

'  sliorc,  near 

lie  of  the  isl- 

los»>  to  he  as- 

ould  tluMi  l)o 

('  l)cacli,  and 

them.      The 

lasscs    of   ice 

f  which  they 

these  masses 

us,  hut  they 

Jaffiii'M  i?ay, 

^vard  of  liar- 

u'u  dai'kuess 

ted  for  j)ros- 

)nsideiv   i       ') 

it  of  tl.i     .  a 

othiT  time, 

ultiiiiati'  ac- 

iii   a    yreat 

jde  this  sea- 

their  opera- 

ason  was  at 
■1  of  ict^  were 
ri',  and  mat- 
ij)s  were  uc- 
lere  was  no 


pns 


^Mhility  of  moviii-  liitNU  ;  a  party,  tluTefore,  was  .«;eut 
(111  shiH'^-'  to  collect  coal,  which  had  heeu  discovered  iiol 
far  nlf. 

Anotliei-  partv.  rousistin^  of  .Mr.  File,  (  u-eeiilaud  mate, 
and  >i\  men  of  the  (iriper,  havinu  heeu  sent  on  shoi-e.  a 
hravv  snow-storm  came  on,  in  wiiiidi  they  lost  their 
wav  ;  not  ap|)earin^  when  iiiiiht  approache(l,  other  par- 
ties were  sent  out  ill  search  ol'theii! — no  less  than  four; 
and  it  was  not  till  three  cold  days  and  more  severe 
niuhts  had  passed  away  that  tln-y  all  ijot  on  hoard,  most 
of  them  exhaiistei  hv  cold  and  fatigue,  and  severely 
t'rost-bitteii  in  tlieii  )es  and  liuiiers.  A  tempestuous 
iiiulit  ol  six  or  sev(>ii  hours  of  darUness,  acc(»mpanie(l 
with  stormy  weather,  without  any  shelter  on  tlu^  shore, 
iiiade  it  e\|)edient  for  tiuMii  to  (Mideavor  to  retrace  their 
steps  t-)  the  eastward.  Other  parties  were  sent  out, 
and  several  days  were  passed  in  jJjreat  anxiety  heforo 
tlie  whole  of  tln-m  r(^turned. 

About  tliis  time,  the;  1  Ith  of  Septemher,  tlio  chanij;(< 
ill  the  teinpei-ature  was  a  very  striUinji  one,  thc^  mercury 
iiaviii::  descended  as  low  as  to  !)-  ;  and  from  tliis  day  tho 
coinnienceinent  of  winter  mii^ht  fairly  he  dated.  Tlie 
iHth  was  a  day  of  seviM'o  trial  for  the  ships.  Knd(!avor- 
iiis:  to  return  aloiiii  th(^  land,  tho  hay  ice  iiad  hcicome  so 
thickened  that,  witli  tiie  pressure  of  tho  Hoes  without, 
the  ships  were  arrested  in  their  proi^ress,  and  unahk;  t(J 
move  a  single  foot  ahead,  and  there  was  hut  too  mucli 
reason  to  appr(diend  that  they  would  Ix;  (h'iven  on  shore, 
or  forced  by  the  lloes  against  the  lieavy  ice  on  the  beach. 
From  tliis  time!  till  the  "JOth  of  the  month  the  perilous 
situation  of  th(5  ships  is  minutely  (h'scrilxid,  when  on 
that  day  a  larii(3  (lo(^  forced  the  (irip(^r  (Ui  shore,  wlnn'o 
silt!  lay  aground  on  the  IxNieh.  At  this  tiiiK^  Lieut(m- 
uiit  Liiidon,  who  had  nu-eiitly  recovered  from  a  rheu- 
matic complaint,  caused  by  the  harassiiii;  circumstances 
of  the  last  fortnight  and  the  iiicreas«id  cold,  which  n^- 
diiced  thi^  mercury  down  to  lo',  was  hroujfht  to  a  very 
debilitated  state.  Parry,  therefore,  proposed  to  liini  to 
allow  liiins(>lf  to  la^  removed  to  the  llecla  till  the  (iriper 
Avas  aiiain  alloat.  To  this  proposal  he  would  by  no 
means  listen,  saying;  he  should  be  tlie  last  man,  instead 
of  the  lirst,  to  leave   the  (Tri[)(>r;  and  resolute  in  his 

G 


i;' 


M 


74 


AUCTIG    VOYAdES. 


])nr|)i)sp,  like  a  trno  l»iitisli  siiilor.  Im^  r«Mii!iiii(Ml  sojifcd 
iiUMiiist  llui  i('('-si(l»i  of  tlio  (It'cU,  jj;i\iii|L;  tlm  iiccossaiy 
(iidi'fs. 

'IMin  tiiiio  wiis  now  moro  fluin  iirrivod  Avlioti  flio  sliips, 
if  possiMr,  should  Itt*  i^ot  into  wiiitcf  (|iiartors.  A  liiir- 
l)or  lu'iiiii  pitclitMl  u|)oii,  mikI,  on  tlio  •jllli,  tlio  (Jripcr 
liaviiii:;  ^ol  afloat  and  ioiiiod.  tlio  two  ships  wcro  socurcd 
ill  tlio  |)ro|)or  position  lor  roimiionciiii;  opiM'ations.  A 
sailor  is  iicncr  iit  a  loss  lor  contriviiii:;  and  cxccntin^i  tlm 
moans  of  ovcM'comiiii:;  siudi  dinicultios  as  low  landsiiini 
would  voiitiir(i  to  (Miconntor.  ( )ii  flio  |)rosonf  occasion 
tlioy  cut  a  c;inal  thi'oiiiih  tlio  solid  ic(>  of  tlio  avonim) 
thiclviioss  of  seven  inches,  and  coiii|)letod  if  in  tliitM* 
days,  llu^  whole  length  of  which  is  stated  to  have  heeii 
four  thousand  and  oijilify-two  yards,  or  two  miles  and 
one  third  nearly.  In  the  afternoon  of  the '.Mith  the  ships 
were  hauled  into  iheir  wiiil(>r  cpiiirters,  with  threo  loud 
and  hearty  tdieers  from  both  ships'  compaiiii^s. 

''  l!:iviiiir  now  reiudied  the  station  wli(>re,  ia  ;ill  proh;il)ili- 
ty,  W(^  were  destined  to  rem;iiii  for  at.  !;  ;ist  ei^'lit  or  iiiiii) 
nioiillis,  diiriiii,'  llii-(H'  of  whicli  we  wen»  not  to  see  the  fiicn 
of  the  SUM,  my  ntleiitioii  was  iriini(>diatelv  and  imperiously 
called  to  vaiioas  and  important  duties,  maiiv  of  tlieni  of  a 
siiiuMilar  iia1un\  such  as  had  for  the  first,  time  devolved  on  any 
oHic(>r  ill  his  majesty's  navy,  and  lui^lit,  indeed,  he  consid- 
ered  of  rare  occnrrenci'  in  the  whole  liistory  of  iiavi^'aliini. 
Tlie  security  of  tli(>  ships  and  the  pri'servation  of  llie  various 
st(M"(>s  were  ohjccts  of  iimnediale  concern.  A  regular  system 
to  he  adopted  for  the  maintenance  of  jjood  order  and  cleanli- 
ness, as  most  conducive  to  tli(>  health  of  the  <a'e\vs,  (hiring 
the  loiiLT,  dark,  and  dreary  winter,  e(pially  iloiiiandcd  my  ut- 
lention/'— I'.   101. 

The  housiiitj;  ovor  the  ships  was  one  of  the  first  coii- 
sideratioiis,  heiiio;  calculafed  to  coiitrihuto  to  th(^  comfort 
of  the  otVicers  and  men,  as  well  as  to  tlie  preservation  of 
tliat  exti'aordiiiary  doizivi^  of  health  wlfadi  had  hitherto 
been  oiijoyed  in  both  ships.  Warmth  and  (hyiiess  of 
the  berths  and  l)t^d-])lac(>s  wore  the  next  important  mat- 
ters to  be  secured,  the  thermometer  havinjf  now  fallen 
h(dow  zero.  An  ii'oii  box,  or  air-vessel,  with  threo 
tubes  of  two  iiudies  dianuMer  communieatiiiii  from  be- 
low with  the  extei'tial  air,  and  unitiiifi  abov(^  with  a  met- 
al box,  was  so  contrived  us  to  convey  tlie  heated  air  to 


^ 


I'ARiiv  H   riKsT  vov.\(;i:. 


75 


uniiiiiod  soat«'(l 
tlin   iiccrssMiy 

vluM)  tlio  sliips, 
liters.  A  liiir- 
Ith,  tlio  (Jrii)cr 
s  were  scciiiimI 
n|)«M'iiti(His.  \ 
I  cxcculini:  fill* 
low  laiiilsMicii 
resent  ((cciisioii 
of  tlie  nveriiij;n 
led  it  ill  tliici! 
il  to  liiiv(*  heen 
two  miles  ami 
;'  'JiJtli  tli(^  shi|N 
^vith  three  loud 
lauies. 

,  ia  all  |irol)aliill- 

ist  ei^dit  or   iiiin) 

»t  to  SIM'  the  (iire 

and  iniiterioMsly 

^liV  ol'  them   of  ;i 

devolved  on  niiy 

deed,  he  eonsiil- 

ry  of  iiMvi^atiiia. 

OH  of  the  vai'ieiis 

\  regular  system 

nler  and  cleanli- 

le  crews,  dui'iiii:; 

emanded  my  at- 

if  the  first  con- 
to  th(^  eoiiifort 
pi't^serviition  nf 
■h  had  hitherto 

and  dryness  of 
important  mat- 

iviiiii  "ow  talliMi 
qd,  with  three 
■atiiiif  from   hi;- 

i»v(^  witli  a  met- 
10  heated  air  to 


the  inen''^  hertlis  ;  and  this  apparatus,  I'iirry  says,  witli 
;i  inndeiate  lire,  prodiie  •(!  a  enrreiil  of  air  of  the  teiiiper- 
jitiiie  of  -7  at  the  distance  of  s<'venteeii  feet  from  tho 
liie-place.  The  (piantity  and  ipialily  ol"  provisions  weio 
ti>  lie  l■e^ulated,  havin;;  re;iaiil  to  the  preserviition  of 
licjillli.  An  anii-x'orhntic  heor  had  heen  issiiiMJ  in  lieu 
of  a  proportion  of  spirits  ;  hnt;  wlieii  the  weathe,  heraino 
e\tieni(dv  seven;,  the  heer  would  not  ferment  so  as  to 
make  it  palatidile.  10 very  attention  was  paid  to  the  is- 
suing of  fnej,  to  the  article  of  proper  clothini:,  and  to  tho 
iiiilure  ol"  the  |)rovisions  and  little  Inxnries  to  he  distrihn- 
lid.  In  shiirl,  the  ahle  and  carefid  manner  in  which  ev- 
eiv  article  of  sliijis"  stores  appears  to  have  heen  dealt  out 
to  the  men.  and  while  jndicions  in  (pialily,  ahmidant  in 
(inaiitilv.  and,  at  the  same  time,  ecicioniically  administer- 
ed, i:a\e  satisfaction  to  all.  I'oth  men  and  ollicers  wern 
fidiv  aware  ol"  the  neces-^ity  there  was  to  serni'e  a  sup- 
plv  \'n\-  the  winter,  and  tor  the  tollowini:  season.  I>nt 
Parrv,  with  ri^lif  feidiiii;  and  judiiiiient,  and,  it  may  ho 
iiddeil.  with  a  knowledge  of  liimian  nature,  in  order  to 
iil)\iate  any  approaidi  to  mnrnmrinii;  or  despondency, 
adnpled  a  measure  admiraldy  (alculaled  lor  |)reveiitm<f 
them. 

'•  I'lider  circumstances  of  leisure  and  Inactivity,  such  as  wo 
^\^|•(■  !ii)\v  pliiicd  ill,  and  with  e\i  ly  jirospect  of  its  contiiiu- 
iinc'  liir  ;i  vei-v  i;iri.'e  piirtiun  of  the  ye;n',  1  was  desirous  of 
iiriiliii^  some  iuiiuseiiient  \nv  the  men  diiriui,'  this  Ioul'  iind  te- 
diiiiis  interval.  I  proposed,  tli'-refnre.  to  tlie  ollicers  to  ^'et 
up  a  play  occasiitujilly  on  hoiird  the  Urdu,  as  tiie  rijadie.st 
iiicaiis  111  pri'serviiiir  .•imoiii,'  our  crews  tljat  cheeriiilness  miiiI 
iripiid  liuiuor  vvliich  had  liitlircto  suhsisted.  In  this  pro[)osal 
J  was  leadilv  sccniided  hy  the  ollicers  of  hnth  slii[>s;  and 
hliMitcMaiif  i^ecciiev  haviiii,'  heen  duly  elected  as  sfaLfe-mail- 
nui'V.  our  first  jirrtormaiice  was  fixed  tiu'  the  "ith  of  .Nuvern- 
hci',  to  the  ^'reat  deliirht  of  the  siiiiis'  conipaiiies.  In  these 
aiaiHi'iiiciits  I  L';.'idlv  took  a  ]iai"t  luvself,  consideriiu.'  that  an 
exai!i|ile  of  cheerfulness,  hy  trivim,'  a,  direct  couuteiiauct!  to 
eveiy  ihint.'  that  could  couliihiite  to  it,  was  not  the  least  es- 
sential ])art  of  my  duty,  under  the  peculiar  circuiuslances  ia 
which  we  were  |i]aced. 

■•  In  order  still  farther  to  pnuiiote  irood  humor  anion::  our- 
selves, as  well  as  to  fni-iiish  amusini:  occupation,  duriiu,'  tho 
liours  of  constant  darkness,  we  set  on  foot  a  weeklv  iiewspa- 
pei-,  which  was  to  he  called  the  Sortk  Ucvr<jia  Gazette  and 


70 


A  IK   TIC     \<>VA(:KH. 


]]'infrr  ('hr,)inrh\  ••iinl  ul'  uliicli  ('ii|>l.'i'm  SiiltiiM"  nmliMMonK 
1(1  lie  tllc  cdllcH,  llllili'i  llic  |)ii>lili^i'  lllilt  il  w.H  III  Ih"  -III! 
|iiirliil  \\\  ii|i:;iii;il  fi  Mil  I  :  I  nit  h  Mi-,  lidiii  llic  i  )llii  c 'is  1 1|  llic  I  \\  ,  i 
sliiji.s:  mill  tJii>ii;;li  snrm"  iilijccl  inp  iiiii\  ,  |M'iiiii|is.  lie  iJii^iil 
ii'.'.'iiiiNl  ;i  I'.ipcr  nf  lliis  l^iiul  Iti'JiL'  ;:i'iii'i;ill\  n-sdilcd  In  m 
sllijis  ol  \\:\\\  I  \v.l>  liid  well  ;iri|i|.iillli'i|  Willi  1 1  |i'  1 1 1  ^ci'i 'I  K  IM, 
;i'>  well  M-^  llir  ("Mi'llcill  (I  ls|iii-ili(iii  III  iiu  (illirri-*,  tu  ;i|>|iii  - 
liciici  ;iii\  iiii|>li';i^;iiil  (•(iii<c'(|iii'iiir>  Iniin  .1  iiM'.'i'^iin'  <>|  tln-i 
kind;  iii^tf.icl  (it Wliicli  I  ciiii  N.ili'lv  s;i\  lli;il  llii'  w crUlv  ci'ii- 
IriliMlinii'^  li.'iil  till'  li:i|)|i\  t'llcci  ti|  ciiiiiliiN  III:;  lln'  Insiirt"  liiMii-j 
nl  lliiiM'  will)  t'iii'ni>lii'i|  tlii'iii.  jiikI  III  iIim'I'Iiiil:  iIi<>  iiiiihI  Ii'ihii 
llir   l:Iiii'III\     |tnw]irrl    wliuli    wniilil    m  iiiicl  lllirs  nlil  luilr    iImII 

(HI  llic  siiiiiliv>i  liMii."  —  r.  Kiii.  Id/-. 

N(»thm^  iiiorc  Wiis  w  ;lIltin^  I  liiiii  siicli  ili'\  ices  ;is  (lu'^;i', 
n'siirltMl  to  ill  ;i  iiioint'iit  nl  |i<m'iiIi;ii-  iiml  i>\tr;ioi'iiiiiiii°\ 
(lillicuity,  to  csliihlisji  llic  (  liiiriictcr  ot'  I'liny  lor  rcmly 
ami  luippy  t'xpcdicnts,  ncconipMiiicd  hy  11  sound  jiid.; 
incut.  \\  liicli  tinis  Ucpl  idnc  tlic  ;ictl\o  powers  oi"  llic 
iini'd,  ;nid  p'  -vented  it  iVoni  r;illii'i^  into  m  liiihil  ol'  mac 
tivity  iind  lisllessness,  ;nid  troin  sinking  into  lliiit  worst, 
of  !ill  conditions,  11  stiilc  ol"  niorliid  toi'pt»r.  I  lis  pkin  was, 
as  it  could  not   well  he  otlieiw'sc,  coniplcttdy  sncccsslnl. 

Kcsides  liis  editorship.  ( 'iipiaiii  Saliine  had  ahnndancc 
of  employ ineiit  ol"  a  very  di''/:cnlt  and  more  iiiiportaiit 
kind,  the  rt>sults  ot"  which  are  i:ivcn  in  detail  in  the  Ap- 
pendix, under  lht>  head  ol"  Mtiaiiilir  ( )lisi  rriiliniis.  \\\- 
p»'rini(Mits  on  the  Pi  in/ uhnii,  and  in  llio  description  of 
(thjects  ol'  Natural  llislory.  His  lirst  atlcnlion,  on  the 
ari'ival  ot"  the  ships  in  theii"  winter  (|iiartci-s.  was  the 
selection  ol  a  proper  place  tor  thi'  ohstM'valory,  which 
was  (M'c'chHl  on  a  convenitMit  spot  for  (•oiMiinmicalioii  witli 
the  ships,  and  also  with  a  house  built  on  the  beach  (or 
ihc  rt>ception  ot'  the  clocks  and  other  inst  •unients.  Tlie 
walls  ot"  this  wert>  ol"  double  plank,  with  moss  between, 
so  thai  a  hiyh  tenipeialuri'  could  be  kept  up  in  it  with- 
out ditlicnlly  by  a  single  stove. 

Unulinu  parlies  occasionally  went  out  and  procureil  a 
few  reindecM'  :  but  a  iniuratioii  of  these  animals  took 
place  bet'oi't*  the  close  ol"  ()ctob(M'.  leaviui:;  behind  them 
only  wolvivs  and  l"o\es  to  keep  the  party  c()in])any  duriii:::; 
the  lon^  winter  months.  Kven  th(>  l^olar  hare,  so  com- 
inen  in  tlu>  Ai'ctic  rci'jioiis,  n»'\ei-  once  showed  itself 
on  Melville  Island  in  the  course   of  the  winter.     The 


TARRY  rf    I'lUH'l'    VOYAcr!. 


77 


lillic'    lllnlrrlc>iiU 
W.H     III    III"     .-'U|i- 

irriH  <>t    I  111"  I  sv  II 

Ii;i|i-,  III'  r.li'iil 
^  It 'SI  I  I'll 'I  I  In  III 
I  tlif  (lis(  rcliiiii, 
lliii'1-4.  til  ;i|'|>ii- 
iiini'-inr  III  lliM 
llir  wci'lvK  rmi- 
llir  leisure  liiiur-4 
■J,  llir  llllllil  linin 
'H  tildiiiili'   ilM'll 

cvici's  its  ll\('><t<, 

I     (<\tl!l()lllill!lfV 

*;ii'iy  Inr  rt'uily 
il    sduinl    jikI'^- 
puWtTS  ul    tlic 
1  liiiltit  <il"  iii;ic- 
iiiltt  lliat   worst, 
I  lis  pliiii  Wiis, 
'trl\   sncccsstiil. 
liMil  iiliiiiiilaiici^ 
iioiT    iiii|iiirt:int 
I'tiiil  ill  tilt"  Ap- 
.(  rriiiiiDis,  \\\- 
ilcscriptioii  111 
[t'litioii.  oil  tilt' 
irtcrs.  Wits  flif 
•viitorv,  wliicli 
iiiiiiciitioii  with 
the  Ix'iicli   till" 

•UllUMltS.        Till' 

moss  lii't wccii, 
up   in  it   witli- 

aiiil  pi-ocurcd  a 
t'  atiiiiials  toolv 
n;  lirhiiid  tliciii 
ompaiiy  during 
y  liafc,  so  coiii- 
sliowt'd  itsi'H" 
winter.     The 


iiiii>k  o\  ( /)'"s'  )nn\rlHiliis),  iiho  very  coiiimoii,  (hiring  its 
iii'iipi't'  si'iisoii,  iirrivi'd  on  Melville  Island  in  the  middle 
111'  \|a\  ,  liv  crossiii^  the  ice  IVotii  the  sunt liw  jii'd.  and 
(MiiMfd  it  li\  the  same  way  on  its  retiiin  toward  the  end 
III  Sepli'iiilier.  <  Ml  the  l.'itli  the  lii-t  io>cy  ol'  ptarmi- 
i_Mii  \s  aN  met  with;  and  on  the  same  day  were  seen  lit- 
tt'iMi  ileer,  all  lyiii'j  down,  except  oik  lari:*'  one,  proha- 
|il\  a  sta'^;  ihr-.  alter  the  ri>iiiii  of  the  rest,  seemed  to 
•  Miard  the  animals  in  their  (]ii:lit.  lVe(|neiitly  uoiiiL'  n  jiid 
the  herd,  sometimes  strikinu  them  with  Ins  imrns  to 
make  them  iio  on,  which  they  appeared  not  much  in- 
clincil  111  do.  I'!ven  seals  were  not  loimd  in  this  neii/li- 
liiirhood  ;  hut  whaler  ot'  dillereiit  Kinds  were  commonly 
met  With:  ;:iilK  and  diicUs,  however,  so  iinmeroiis  in 
havis's  Strait  and  the  (ieoruiaii  Islands,  con  lescended 
Mill  to  M-it  .\I(d\ille  Island,  hilt  '■  t  wo  or  three  specimens 
ol'  a  caicrpillar  were  ohtained,  ftiM'  ol"  \\  hicli  was  hroi;:^ht, 
til  M 1 1  l;  land"-  (if  course  as  an  Arctic  curiosity.  One  Iari:<i 
\\  III!  e  l>eai',  ha  \  in^  pursued  (  'apt  a  in  Sa  hi  lie's  servant  to  tin' 
ship,  was  shot  at  and  womide<l,  hiit  made  his  esca|)e  ;  it 
\vas  the  only  one  met  with  diirini.''  the  stay  oi"  the  party, 
hilt  de^crihed  as  heinij;  more  purely  white  than  any  they 
had  hefore  seen.  \  leehie  willow,  a  saxifrage,  lichens, 
and  stniiled  grasses  constitute  jiretty  nearly  \\\vjhir(i.  ot" 
Mehille  Island. 

This  desolate  and  iiiiserahle  island  was  destined  to  ho 
till-  al'ode  ot  onr  cmmtrymen  lor  nine  to  ten  dreary  wiii- 
Icr  months,  diirinii  thr<'e  of  wiradi.  as  they  had  heeti  ahh* 
to  ant icipate,  the  siiii  did  not  shed  on  them  so  imi(di  as 
one  lieiii:.Mi  ray.  No  wonder,  then,  that  not  a  sinj^le  hu- 
man heiiiij;  was  toiiiid  to  iiiliahit  so  repulsive  \\  spot  ;  ami 
it  reqnireil  no  little  consideration,  on  t  he  part  orthecom- 
niaiider  ol'  the  <'\pedition.  to  find  employment  lor  tlu; 
|)i'iiple  under  his  c(mimand  and  protection,  to  preser\o 
their  health,  and  to  ward  oil"  despondency  I'or  so  l(»ni.r  a 
|M>riod.  The  method  hit  upon  hy  (iienteiiant  I'arry  liarl 
])induce(l,  to  a  ^reat  decree,  an  admirai)le  el'lect.  \'et 
sniiielhiiiL;  more  was  still  reipiired  than  the  actin<:  of 
))lays  and  the  writing  and  readiuii  ol"  i:a/('ttes.  l>oth 
Miiiid  and  Itody  deiii'inded  ex«n'cise,  as  the  only  means 
dl'  protection  aizainsf  disease,  wiiich  a  larjr*'  share  ol"  leis- 
ure and  a  coiitiiiiicd  state  of  mental  inacti\ity  wcio  hut 


i 


I'i 


.i 


I 


78 


auctk;  vuva(;eh. 


too  sniu'  to  inddiicc.  'I'lic  totiil  privaf  ioti  of  cmiiio  ofimy 
kind  iiliordtvl  tew  fMiiisiuiis  for'  tlif  soiiicr  of  cxcicimi 
niid  iiiniisfinriil  wliicli  lniiitiii<:  is  Uiiowii  to  coiitrr.  i'ai'- 
tics.  Iiowfvrr,  liiid  occasiotiiilly  Item  sent  out  shortly  ul- 
t«'r  tlif  takiiii;  up  oi"  tlirii-  w  inter  (|iiiirt('rs.  <  hir  of  I  lit 's,. 
did  not  ri'turn  on  hoard  hi  fore  sunset,  as  strictly  ordered, 
and  the  eoiisivjueiice  is  stated  to  lia\e  heen  as  follows  : 

".lolni  reiusdii,  u  iiiiiiMne  helonu'iiii,'  to  the  (iri[ier.  wIid 
was  the  last  that  I'elanied  on  hoai'd.  had  his  hands  seven-iv 
fVosI-hitlen.  havini,'  iiii|)nideiidy  L'one  away  without  mitten^, 
and  witli  a  iniiskel  in  his  hand.  A  party  of  our  people  niii.>t 
pni\  identiiilly  loiind  hiiii,  allhniiuh  llu"  ni^dit  was  \ery  dark. 
Just  as  he  had  tiillen  down  a  haidi  of  siiow.  and  was  he^in- 
Jiini,'  to  li-el  that  de^iree  (if  torpor  and  di'ow«iiiiess  which,  il 
indid::ed.  inevitahlv  |>ro\es  lata!.  \\'heii  he  was  hnnii^ht  on 
l>oard  his  linirers  were  (|iiite  stitV,  and  hent  int(»  the  shape  o| 
that  part  of  the  ninsUet  which  he  had  hecii  carrvini,' ;  and  tln' 
fro>l  h.id  so  l;ir  deslrovcd  the  animation  in  his  timbers  nn  one 
hand  that  it  was  necessary  to  anipntat*-  ihti-e  of  them  a  shon 
time  alter.  notwilhstandiiiL'  all  the  care  and  attention  paid  tn 
hini  hy  the  medical  j^enllenien.  The  etlect  wliii'h  e.vposiuc 
to  -I'vere  tiosi  has  in  hennmhim;  the  mental  as  well  as  the 
«(>rpo:eal  (acnllies  was  very  sti'ikinL;  in  this  m;in.  as  well  ;is 
in  I\\  o  of  the  youn^;  ^'entlemen,  w  ho  retin-ned  niter  dark,  aini 
ot  ".'.  hom  we  \\  ere  anxions  to  make  iiajnirii-s  I'espiM'tin;.'  I'e.ir. 
Poll.  When  1  sent  liir  them  iiit<  Tiiy  cai):n  they  looked  wild, 
^poki'  thick  and  indistincllv,  ;ind  it  was  im|)ossil»le  to  draw 
from  lliein  a  rational  answer  to  any  of  our  (pieslions.  Mii  r 
hi'iiiu'  on  hoard  t(>r  a  short  time  the  meiit.al  faculties  a|)|)eared 
praduallv  to  return  with  the  retiirnim,'  circulation  ;  and  il  w.is 
not  till  then  iIkiI  il  looker-on  could  easily  |)ersiiadt!  hiiiisei'' 
that  they  had  uol  been  ilrinkin;,'  too  freely."' — 1'.  1U!J. 

This  wns  fully  stdlicietit  fitr  the  alfeutive  and  kiiid- 
liearted  eomuiauder  to  tidopt  olleclivc  measures  against 
n  r(!('urivii(!e  of  so  pifinful  a  nvsult.  So  early  as  the  •JlMli 
of  ( )ctol)erthe  tlieniionu'ter  was  down  to  12  I  helovy  zero. 
It  Avas  MOW  distressiiiii,  to  toiicli  luiy  nuMiillic  suhstancc 
Avilh  the  naked  hand  in  tho  ojien  air;  it  prothiced  a  feelinu 
of  intense  heat,  luid  took  olf  tho  skin.  Jf  tlie  (»ye|)i»H'o 
of  a  tolescojie  touched  tli(>  liK'(>,  it  occasione'd  an  intense 
bin-nin;:  pain;  tlie  remedy  was  to  covei'  tliem  and  otlier 
instruments  with  soft  leather.  T\u^  ollicers,  notwilh- 
8tandin<x.  induli:ed  themselves  in  walkinu  for  tin  hour  or 
two  ill  the  middle  of  the  day,  in  the  depth  of  ^Yiutev, 


J'ARKV  ri    riKST    vuv.\(.i:. 


79 


I  (if  i:aiM(*  ((faiiy 
ircc  (»l  ('\fr»i>«) 
tt»  roiilcr.  I'm  - 
It  out  sliurtlv  lit- 

\.       (  >11C  (i|  tlli'sr 

sliictly  ordrifil, 
•fii  ii-i  lollows  : 

ilic  (iri[M'c.  wlio 

is  li;iii(ls  srvri'i'lv 

willniiil  miltrii^, 

I"  (1M|-  |M'n|i|c  |||n>t 
lit  \\;iH  scry  ilai  k, 
,,  Mild  wiis  liCL'iii- 
w-iiitrss  which,  it 
c  \v;vs  l)nMiL;ht  nn 
into  the  shiipc  nt 
■iUTvinu  ;  aiul  tlic 
his  fiicjcrs  on  one 
•V  of  ihciii  ii  slidrt. 
1  attention  piiid  to 
t  whlcli  c\|i(PMirf 
tal  as  well  as  the 
s  man,  as  well  as 
ed  alter  ilarU,  ami 
s  i'(>s|)(M'tiiii.'  I'ear- 
thev  looked  wil(1. 
ii|)ossil(le  to  di'aw 
(|nestioiis.  Atl<  r 
"acuities  appeared 
lation  ;  and  it  \\a>i 
persiiadt!  hinisci'' 

"— r.  io;{. 

Mitive  aiul  kind- 
iKMisures  asaiiist 
(Miiy  as  the-JiUh 
)  L' 4  below  zero, 
etallic  siihstanoo 
roduced  a  teelini,' 
It"  tho  <'yepi»H(t 
ioiH'd  ail  iuttMise 
tlioiii  and  otlier 
niccrs,  iioUvith- 
(;  l"or  un  hour  or 
iepth  of  \YUUev, 


f\cri  wlien  tlie  theniioriiefer  was  down  to  10"  or  even 
.■)(i  helow  /eio,  without  ex perieiicihi;  iii.jdi  iiicotive- 
niciice  iVoMi  this  intense  dej;n.'e  of  cold,  provided  always 
that  there  was  no  wind;  hut  the  least  l>ree/,e  made  tlie 
exposure  to  it  intolerahle  when  the  mercury  was  even 
several  dei;rees  ahove  zero.  The  I'ollowitiy  passable  is 
so  naturally  and  so  wcdl  expressed,  that  th<!  desire  to  ex- 
tract it  is  irresistihie.  Speaking  of  tlieir  sliort  walks  otk 
.shore.  Tarry  says  : 

"It  niav  well  he  iniai'ined  tliat   nf   this  pr-riod  there  was 
hut  little  to  he  niei  with  ill  our  walks  on  slior'e  which  could 
eiilicr  ainiise  or  interest  us.      'I'he  necessity  ot  not  e.\cee«hn^ 
tlic   liniiled  distance  ot'  one  or  two   miles,  lest  a  snow-dril't, 
which  otten  )"i>es  very  suddenly,  siioiild  prevent  our  leturii, 
added  cniisiderahly  to  tin-  dull  and  tedious  nKuiotoiiy  wliicli 
day  alter  day  |ii'eseiited  itself.      'I'u  the   southward  was  the 
NM,  covered  with  one  unhrokeii  surlace  of  ice,  iinilnrm  in  its 
da//lin;f  whiteness,  except  that,  in  some   parts,  a  few  honi- 
iimcs   were    seen   thrown    up   poinewhat    ahove    the  ^'eneral 
level.     .Nor  did   the  land  offer  much  ;:reater  viiriety,  hein;^ 
aliiinst  entirely  covered  with  snow,  except  iiere  and  there  a 
hniwn   patch   of  liare    ^'roiind,   in  Home   «'xposed  situations, 
where  the  wind  had  not  alktvveil  tin;  snow  to  remain.     \\  hen 
viewed  Ironi  the  summit  ol   the  neij^hhorin;,'  hills,  on  one  of 
tliiisc  cahn  i.iiil  clear  chiys  which  not  unfre(|uently  occurred 
diiriiii,'  the  winter,  the  scene  was  such  as  to  induce  contein- 
j)]atiniis  which  had,  perhaps,  more  of  melancholy  than  of  any 
other  feehii::.     -Not  an  ohject  was  to  h(>  seen  on  which  tiio 
eye  could  loim  rest  with  pli-asiire,  unless   when   directed   to 
tli(>  spot  where  the  shi|is  lay,  and  wlierf;  our  little  colonv  was 
planted.     The   smoke   which   there   issued  trom   tin;  .several 
tires,  iitl'ordinu:  a  certain  indication  of  the  j)resenc(;  of  man, 
^'av(!  a  partial  cheerfulne.ss  to  this  part  of  the  prospect;   anil 
the  sound  of  voices,  which,  during  the  cold  weather,  could 
lie  heard  at  a  much  greater  ilistance  than  usual,  served  now 
and  tlien  to  hreak  the  silence  whidi   reigned  around  us — a 
silence  far  ditVerent  from  that  peaceahle  cianposure  which 
chancteri/.es  the  landscape  of  a  cultivated  couiitrv;   it   was 
the  deathlike  stillness  ol'  the  most  dreary  desr)latioii,  and  the 
tot.'d  aliseiice  of  animated  «\xis1'MK:c.'.     yiich,  indeed,  was  the 
want  of  ohjects  to  atloril  reli«d'  to  the  eye  or  aniu.sement  to 
the  mind,  tliat  a  stoiu>  of  more  than  usual  size  api>earin" 
ahove  the  snow,  in  the  direction  to  which  we  wt-re  iroiiiu, 
immediately  became  a  mark,  on   which  our  eyes  were  im- 
cuasciously  lixcd,  and  toward  which  wc  mechauically  ad- 
vanced. 


I   .( 


["• 


m' 


til 


ft 


80 


AIM  TIC   voYA(;i:^». 


"  hrtMcv  ii'^  snrli  ;i  s<'i'in'  iiiii''t  iii'ci'ss.iiily  l»t',  it  ffiuiil  cut, 
liiiwcMi.  Ill-  >,ii(l  til  In-  wlmllv  u. lilt  in;:  in  iiilrrrsl.  cspi'ci.illv 
wlii'ii  :i~siii'i:ili'il  ill  till'  iniiiil  willi  llir  |)ci'iiH!ii'its  mI  iiiii' Mt. 
n.'itiiiii.  llir  uliji'i'i  w  hull  liiiil  lii'diiplit  us  liilhcr',  :iii(l  llii-  liii|ii'. 
\s  Ini  li  llii-  liii^t  sinL.'Miiic  iKiiitii'.'  IIS  HMiiifliiiics  iMiti-r'tainnl  i>i 
^|•^ll(llll:,•  a  |iai  t  ul  tiiir  iir\l  \\  inter  in  I  lie  nmi'c  ^'fuial  cliniiitr 
III  llic  Siiiiiii-Sra  l>laii(U.  I'l'iliajis  lud.  tlj(iiii;li  inmf  nt  ii- 
tinii  \  ciiliiicil  III  ciPiilc-N  it,  niir  tli(>u:.'lit.s  would  sniiictiinc - 
iii\  iiliiiit;inlv  waiiili'f  lidini'wanl,  ami  in-^lltiitr  a  nimiiaii^iiii 
lii'Iw  ('I'll  till'  iiiL'i-'i'il  tiici'  tif'  natiirr  in  tlii-*  <|r^nla-lf  iil'Iuh 
ami  till'  iivrlicr  a>|ii'('t  n^  the  lia|i|iv  laml  wliicji  we  liatl  Icli 
lifliiiid  IIS."— I'.    IJI,   IJ.'i. 

Notliiui:  could  1)1'  iiioff  judicious  than  tli(>  arfaii;;!'- 
iiii'Uts  made  t'oi'  the  (Mii|)lnyiiicnl  ol'  the  men  each  dnv 
in  the  week:  and  till  Sundays  disiiie  sefvice  was  iii\a- 
rialily  |ieri"oiiiied.  and  a  sefinoii  fead.  on  hoard  hoth  shi|is. 
'•  'The  atleiitiou,"  says  i'arry,  "  |)aid  hy  the  men  to  llir 
(ihser\aiice  of  their  feliuicnis  (hilies  was  sn<'li  as  to  ic- 
llect  U|>oii  tlieni  the  hiuhest  credit,  lllid  it  teiuh'd  in  im 
small  de::ree  to  llie  |)reser\alion  ol"  that  regularity  and 
i:ood  ciiiahict  lor  ahich,  with  \eiy  lew  except  ions,  they 
were  iii\arialily  disfiiiiiuished."  'Tlu'  iidnor  arranye- 
iin'iits  made  hy  I'arry  to  liiid  employnn'rit,  ttnd  to  vary 
the  occupations  of  hoth  men  and  otiicers,  diiriiii;;  the 
Ion::.  mihroUeii  niiiht  of  tlnve  months,  appear  t(»  liave 
heeii  very  judicious,  'j'he  t'ornu'r,  alter  atteiidinji  divis- 
ions nnirninu  and  evening,  cleared  up  the  decks,  attend- 
ed tin'  ollicers  round  the  shi|)s,  examined  tluMr  hertlis 
iind  hed-places.  and  in  the  eveiun*;  went  to  llieir  su|)per. 
wliile  the  ott'u'ers  took  their  tea.  After  this  the  meti 
were  permitted  to  aimise  themselves  as  they  pleased, 
and  iiauu's  ot' various  kinds,  jis  well  as  dain;ini:  mid  siii:;- 
ini:.  occasionally  went  on  upon  the;  lower  deck  till  nine 
o'clock,  wlien  thev  retired  to  rest,  and  their  liiihts  were 
t'\tini:uished.  '•  it  is  .sciircoly  necessaiy  to  add."  l*ariy 
ohserves.  "that  th(»  eveliiny:  occupations  of  the  (dlicers 
were  of  ii  mcnc  I'ational  kind  than  those  which  eiiijayed 
the  attention  of  the  men-.  Of  the  former,  reading  and 
writing  were  the  principal  empIoymiMits.  to  which  were 
occasionidly  added  a  uiimo  of  chess,  or  a  time  on  the 
(lute  or  violin,  till  lialf  j)ast  ten,  about  which  time  We  all 
retii  ed  to  rest." 

On  Chris^tmas-day,  which  hud  now  arrived,  the  Nveath- 


rvRiiv  rf  FiHHT  vov.\(;n. 


81 


he 
•It 
i;if 
I", ; 
s  r 
(•  J. 

"r 
(III 

Ic 

<l< 

111 


it  cniilil  i:(it. 

t,  r>*|)i'ri;ill\ 
its  ol'  our  Mt- 
mil  ill)'  liii|i)'^ 

llll'ltililHMl  111' 

.'fiiiiil  iliiii;ili' 
li  innii"  III  iH 
111  sitmi'tiiii'> 
;i  cninpariMiii 
•Milirtr  frL'inh 
li  \vr  liiiil  l.ll 


M  tli(«  iirriiii'.:i'- 
nii'M  racli  ilay 
rvici'  Wiis  iii\a- 
iiiiid  l)i»tli  sln|is. 
the  iiifii  til  till' 
surll   il"*   tn   ir- 
it  tfiiili'il    ill  iiii 
regularity  mul 
xccptiiMis,  lliry 
miiinr  iiiriiti^f- 
•iit,  iitiil  to  viiry 
rs.   ilurini:  tln' 
iippriii"  to   hiivi' 
iittnidinii  <li\is- 
(IccUs.  attciid- 
f(l  th(>ii-  licrtlis 
II  thoii"  suppiT. 
tliis  the   iiirti 
tlicy  i)lt'as('(i. 
iiciiiii  and  siiit:- 
•  deck  till  niiH^ 
I'ir  liu;htH  were 
to  add,"  I'iiny 

of  tlic  olTlClTS 
which  (Mii!:a'^r(l 
r.  rcadiiiii  and 
to  which  wt'ir 
a  tniu>  on  tlin 
ch  tiiut;  wo  all 

led,  iho  weuth- 


«>r  wiis  rnw  nnd  coif,,  witli  snow  :  Imt  to  niai-lv  t1ii>  day  in 
the  Ih".I  niiHUicr  tliiit  rii(  iiiii'^taiirr,;  w  mild  pniiill,  di- 
MiM-  -civin'  was  prrloniird  on  l»oiii(i  tlir  twi  ships; 
•■iind  I  diici'lcd  a  smn'l  ituTcasf  in  the  iiirn's  tiMiiil  pro- 
piii'tiiiii  ot'tii'sh  niriit.  as  a  ('Inislnias  dinin'r.  as  well  as 
an  addilioiiiil  iillowniicc!  of  uroi:.  to  drink  the  hrnllli  of 
tlicir  iViiMids  in  Kniiland.  Tlii'  odicrrs  also  irrt  at  a  so- 
«'iiil  and  frii-ndly  dinner,  and  llie  day  pasx-d  with  niinh 
ot'  till'  ^aiiii"  kind  of  Icslivity  l»y  whi(di  it  is  usually  ds- 
tinjiii^lii'd  at  lionii' ;  and."  he  adds,  "to  the  cfedit  of 
jli,.  irien  l»e  it  spoken,  without  aii\  of  that  diMuder  hy 
which  i'  is  ttio  often  ohsrrseil  hy  scaiiieii." 

The  iiDod  order.  rcLinlaiity.  and  discipline  of  the  two 
sliip<.  in  this  most  trying  ol"  situations,  is  a  hove  all  praisr  ; 
wliollv  depiiverl  as  they  were  ottlie  si;;ht  oftliesini  tor 
ei 'htv-foiir  da\s.  \\hi(di  nia\'  he  reckoned,  as  it  reallv 
was.  one  ciiiitinned  ni^lit.  lighted  np  only,  and  that  par- 
fialU.  \t\  the  moon,  and  occasionally  hy  tin;  lleeiint;  An- 
idia  lliiiealis.  Their  extraordinary  ^ooij  conduct,  uii- 
di'i"  such  circnnistances,  iniisf,  in  a  iireat  decree,  he  as- 
ciihcd  to  the  example  set  them  hy  their  excellent  conj- 
niaiider,  cordially  seconded  hy  Ijieiifenant  liiddoii  and 
the  other  offi(;ers.  It  is  wtdl  understood  in  the  navy 
that  iihcdieiit  and  uood  conduct  on  the  piirt  of  seamen, 
ami  a  hi^h  state  of  discipline  in  u  man-of-war,  are  tlio 
sine  lesiilts  of  ahle  and  intelliireiit  oflicers,  kind  and  Jit- 
tetitive  to  those  under  their  command,  yet,  at  the  saiim 
time,  strictly  reipiiriiiij;  from  them  a  ready  and  willing 
ohedienco  to  the  orders  of  their  superiors,  and  to  iho 
lilies  and  reiiulatioiis  of  tho  service.  Such  were  tho 
men.  and  such  tin;  commanders,  on  tiie  present  service  ; 
and  the  coiisc(|uence  was,  that  every  man  (witli  the  ex- 
ception of  one  |)oor  fellow,  who  carried  out  with  him  an 
incurable  disease)  was  hrouyht  home  in  as  hi^^h  a  stale 
ot  health  as  that  in  whicli  lie  left   iMifiland. 

OiK^  case  of  scurvy  was  reportetf  on  tlio  2d  of  .Tami- 
nry.  Mr.  Scallon,  ^unncM*  of  tlie  llecla,  complained  of 
))aiiis  in  liis  le^s,  and  the  appearance  of  his  ^Mims  left  no 
doiiht  of  the  symptoms  hein<j;  scorhiitic,  which  Mr.  Md- 
wards.  the  surgeon,  ascrihed  to  th(^  deposit  of  moisture 
in  his  bed-i)lace.  The  commander,  ever  anxious  for  tho 
preset vation  of  health  iu  his  ship,  put  in  requisition  ul) 


h 

I  i ' 


N: 


J 


82 


ARCTIC    ViA'AGK.-^. 


tlitiir  aiiti-scoihulics  I'or  his  recovery,  consisliii^  of  pro- 
served  vei;(!tal)l(!  soups,  lemon- juic(i  and  siiiiar,  piclsles, 
preserved  eurrants  and  frooseberries,  and  spi'iicii  beer. 
Ho  also  i-aised  in  Lis  cahin  a  (piantity  of  mustard  and 
cress,  of  which,  even  in  tln^  sev(>rity  of  the  winter,  ho 
C(juld  <reii(a-aliy  ensure  a  crop  at  tlie  end  of  the  sixtli  or 
se\(ii(tli  day.  So  clllectual  wore  tlieso  remedies  in 
Scailon's  case,  tliat,  (<n  the  nintli  evcininu  from  the  attack, 
•le  was  ihle  to  walk  about  on  tlu^  lower  deck,  and  "  lie 
assured  me,"  says  Tarry,  "  that  ho  could  then  run  a 
lace." 

Tlnaxlay,  the  ?,d  of  Febri^ary,  was  a  day  not  to  be 
forgotten.  At  twenty  minutes  l)eibre  ap|)arent  noon  the 
sun  was  scon  from  the  Hecla's  main-toj)  (at  the  height 
of  tifty-one  fe(!t  above  tln^  sea),  being  the  iirst  time  that 
this  luminary  had  be(.Mi  visible  to  them  since  the  11th  of 
November — a  period,  as  already  said,  of  eighty-four  days, 
that  is,  tAvelve  days  less  than  the  time  of  its  remaining 
actually  beneatli  the  iDrizon,  independently  of  the  ef- 
iects  of  atmosi)herical  refraction.  Throughout  Febru- 
ary, liowi'.jr,  tlui  mtensity  of  the  coid.  instead  of  being 
somewhat  mitigati'd  by  the  rays  of  the  sun,  I'eeble  as 
ihey  were,  was  increased.  On  the  ~*4tli  a  fire  brokt) 
out  in  the  shore-liouse,  and,  in  the  exertions  to  save  the 
valuable  insti'uments.  not  fi'wer  tliaii  sixteen  men  incur- 
red fiost-bites,  the  tiiei'mometer  during  the  day  being 
from  — 13"  to  — 14^. 

"  Ainoni,'  tlicse  llicre  wen^  four  or  five  ca.'^es  whicli  ke])t 
ibe  palieiils  coaliued  l()r  several  weeks;  Iml  .lohu  Smidi,  of 
tlie  artillery,  who  was  ('!i|ttriiii  Sabine's  servant,  and  who,  to- 
getbcr  with  Sergeant  .Martin,  bap[)ene(l  to  be  in  the  house  at 
the  time  tb'"  lii'e  broke  out,  were  unfortunate'  enough  to  suf- 
fer niucli  more  seven  ly.  In  ibeir  anxiety  T(»  save  the  diji- 
jiiuLT-needle,  wliicb  was  .standing  close  to  the  stove,  and  of 
wbicli  they  knew  the  \alue,  they  inunediately  ran  out  vvilh 
i!  ;  and  Smith,  not  having  time  to  ])ut  on  his  gloves,  had  his 
iim:ers  in  half  an  hour  so  benumbed,  and  the  animation  so 
(  lUipleti'lv  suspended,  that,  on  his  'oeing  taketi  on  hoard  bv 
'  ir.  Milwards,  and  having  his  hands  ])hui^'ed  iiUo  a  basin  ot' 
cold  vvatei',  thi'  siu'liice  of  the  water  was  inunediately  i'ro/eii 
by  the  intense  cold  thus  .suddenly  conununicated  to  it;  and, 
notwithstanding  the  mos'  iiumane  ;uiil  inn-emitting  attt-utinn 
paid  to  hiiu  by  the  metlical  gtMitlenien,  it  was  fou)id  necessa- 


"^ 


r.AUUV  ri    FIRST   vuva(;e. 


83 


'U 


islin;i  of  pro- 
iiiiiiir,  picUlcs, 

spruce   l)t't'r. 

mustiird  uiid 
lie  winter,  lio 
it"  the  sixtli  or 

renu'dios  in 
oin  the  attiick, 
leek,  iiml  "  lie 
d  then  run  u 

day  not  to  'no 
neiit  noon  the 
(iit  t.lie  liei,i;ht 
lirst  time  that 
ce  the  ntli  of 
:hty-fonrdiiys, 

its  reniiiinini; 
itly  of  the  ef- 
i^ihont  Fel)ru- 
isleiid  of  hein^ 

sun,  feeble  iis 
}i  a  tire  hi-oKo 

lis  to  save  liie 
11  men  incur- 

the  day  beini; 

>ei5  wliicli  kept 
IdIui  Sir.idi,  of 
it,  siiid  who,  to- 
ill  the  house  at 

enough  to  suf- 
o  save  the  dip- 
stove,  Jind  tif 
V  r;in  r)ut   vvitli 

gl(»\('s,  ]i;mI  \i\'i 
le  iinimiitioii  so 

Ml  on  IxtJird  by 

into  a  biisiii  nt' 
icdiately  I'l'dzcii 
ati'd  to  it ;  iiml. 
littiiiu  atteiitinu 

i'liuud  ueces.>a- 


rv,  snine  time  ath-r.  to  resort  to  llie  aiiiputatiou  of  a  part  of 
\'n\ir  lluirers  on  one  liuad  anil  three  on  the  utinT." — I'.  1  l;;, 

Jl;i. 

"  The  appearance,"  snys  Parry,  "  wliich  our  faces  pr<^- 
seiited  at  tbe  lire  was  it  curious  one,  almost  every  nosn 
and  clieek  havini:  become  (piite  white  with  fiost-bites  in 
fivi'  minutes  after  beiim  exposed  to  the  weather,  so 
that  it  was  deemed  necessary  for  the  medical  iientleineii, 
tu::ether  with  some  others  appointed  to  a-  sist  them,  to 
fro  constantly  lound  while  tlio  men  wen;  workin<iat  tho 
lire,  and  to  rub  with  snow  the  parts  atlected,  in  order  to 
rotore  animiition." 

( )ii  tlie  Kith  day  of  Febi-uary  the  gi'Ciitest  degree  of 
cold  was  (>x|)eri»!iiced,  the  thermometer  liavinji  descend- 
ed to — ."jo"^,  and  I'emained  for  fifteen  lioui's  at  — 51  ,  tho 
li'>«i  to  have  iieeii  expected  as  the  old  year  had  closed 
Avith  mild  weather.  On  the  followiui:;  day  Parry  snys, 
'•  Notwithstandiiiii  tlu^  low  temperatiu'e  ol  the-  external 
atmosphere,  the  oificers  contrived  to  act,  as  visual,  tho 
|i|ay  announced  for  this  evening;  but  it  must  be  con- 
i'rs>ed  that  it  was  almost  too  cokl  for  either  the  actors 
or  the  audieiic"  to  enjoy  it,  especially  those  of  the  loi-- 
nierv.dio  undertook  to  ap[)ear  in  female  dresses."'  It  is 
some  consolation,  however,  to  be  told  that  tiiere  was  no 
wiii'I.  and  the  severest  cold  lias  been  stated  to  be  foler- 
alile  in  a  cidm.  in  March  the  snow  b«»<:an  tv,  melt,  witii 
a  tem|)erature  of  LM)  \o  :5(P  in  the  sun,  but  with — 'J'J  ^ 
to — 'J.V  in  the  shade.  Luminous  arches,  i)arhelia,  and 
tlie  Aurora  wei'e  fre(pient,  but  not  particularly  remark- 
a!ile.  Toward  tho  end  of  A])ril  tluj  thermometer  con- 
tinued abov(>  tho  freezing  j)oint  in  the  shade  for  tho 
greater  part  of  two  days,  and  about  tlie  middle  of  May 
the  --hiiis  w(M'e  once  again  afloat,  the  operation  of  cut- 
ting the  ice  round  them  being  completed. 

I'arry,  however,  observes  that  it  was  sufficiently  dis- 
cenniging  to  his  hopes  of  a  fartlier  progress  to  the  west- 
ward, to  ))erceive  tluit,  on  the  last  day  of  May,  "  tho 
sea  still  })resented  tt;e  same  unbroken  and  continuous 
surface  of  solid  and  im[)enetrable  ice,  and  ice  that  could 
not  Ik*  less  than  from  six  to  seven  feet  in  thickness,  as 
we  ktii'w  it  to  be  al»out  the  shij)s.  When  to  this  cir- 
cumstance was  added  the  consideration  that  scarcely 


ilj 


1[^ 


if 


I:' 


r 


84 


ARCTIC    VOYAOKS. 


tlio  slii^lifosf  syniptonis  of  lluiwiiii:  lind  y<'t  ii|)|)C!H'(mI, 
and  flint  in  tlircr  wccUs  tVom  tliis  ixM'iod  the  sun  wjuld 
ntiain  l)r«i;in  to  (l('clin(>  to  tlic  sontliwiiid.  it  must  \w  coii- 
Irsscd  tliat  the  Mn)st  sauiruino  and  (Mitliusiaslic  ani(»n^  us 
liad  sonic  reason  to  Ix'  staiXijci'cd  'n  the  ('X])crtatioii  tlicy 
liati  loniicd  oi"  tlio  compltMt'  acconiplisluiiont  of  our  cu- 
torpriso." 

It  may  licro  bo  remarked  that  tlio  wliole  of  tlio  navi- 
j;atioii  hitherto  perfornuMl  had  been  from  the  1st  of 
Aiiiiiist.  wlien  IjancastcM'  Sound  was  enltMed,  to  tlie  'Jdth 
of  Sept(Miiber,  wlien  the  ships  were  antdioi'ed  on  the 
coast  of  Midvillc  Island.  fjiciitcnaiit  I'arry  lias  else- 
\vliei-(^  observed  that  the  month  of  Septcmbci'  is  one  of 
the  most  favoiable  for  navijiation  amoiiiSi  masses  of  ice, 
hut  the  slu)r(^s  of  Melville  Island,  at  least,  appear  to  \w 
an  exception — to  be,  in  fact,  the  I'ecipitMits  of  the  ^real- 
est  part  of  the  ice  driven  to  the  eastward  by  the  west- 
orly  winds  about  that  j)arallel,  this  island  beiiifi;  the  out- 
ermost of  the  (Jeoruian  chain,  and  considered  by  Parry 
ns  by  far  the  worst  he  evt'r  met  with. 

Previous,  li()w<ner,  to  their  d(>parturo  from  this 
(li'oary.  dismal,  and  detestable^  aboile,  Parry  determiiitMl 
to  make  a  journ(\y  across  Mcdville  Island  to  tlu^  north- 
ward, and  to  return  by  a  ditferenl  route.  lie  was  ac- 
companied by  Captain  Sabine,  Messrs.  Fisher,  Nias,  and 
Keid,  a  s(>ri;eaiit  of  marines,  and  a  serijeant  of  artillery, 
together  with  thi'(Hi  stamen  and  two  marines,  makiii;:, 
in  the  wlu)le,  u  party  of  twelve.  They  took  with  thciu 
tents,  ])rovisions,  and  a  cookinji  apparatus.  It  was  found 
tliat  those  parts  of  the  island  whi(di  were  clear  of  snow 
produced  the  dwarf  willow,  sorrel,  and  poppy,  and  that 
the  moss  was  very  luxuriant.  On  the  s(>cond  day  they 
saw  a  pair  of  ducks  (yl;/^/,s  sjjcctahiiin),  and  killed  seven 
]itarmii;an  :  sorrel  and  saxifrajie  were  abundant.  They 
iound  pieces  of  coal  embedded  in  sandstone  ;  passed  a 
very  extensivi,  dreary,  and  uninteresting  level  i)laiii 
covered  with  snow  ;  and  tliis  kind  of  ground,  '.vith  occa- 
sional ravines  and  fogey  weather,  continued  for  threo 
days,  during  which  they  saw  not  a  living  animal,  except 
one  or  two  llocks  of  geese  {Anas  hernlcla). 

PaiTy,  being  desirous  of  obtaining  a  view  of  the  sea 
on  the  northern  shore,  took  with  him  the  two  midship- 


yd  iippcarnl, 
tlu'  sun  wjuld 
t  must  l)i>  cou- 
iistic  nnioui;  us 
ipcrtiition  tlwy 
leut  of  our  cii- 

)lo  of  tlio  navi- 
)m   tli«^   1st   of 
red.  to  tlM'  '2C>\\i 
icliort'd   oil  tilt' 
•any  lias   elsp- 
•inhtT  is  one  of 
;  masses  of  ice, 
■;t,  appeal-  to  Im 
its  of  the  jireiit- 
nl  l)y  tlie  wesl- 
l  iKMiifi;  the  out- 
ilered  l)y  Puny 

ture    from    this 
iriy  determined 
id  to  the  nortli- 
Ile  Avas  ao- 
isher,  Nias,  and 
ant  of  artillery, 
liarines,  makiiiLN 
took  with  them 
Is.    It  was  found 
■e  clear  of  snow 
poppy,  and  that 
I'cond  day  they 
uid  kilhul  seven 
Imndant.     They 
touo  ;  passed  a 
Itiiig   level  i)laiii 
und,  '.v'ith  oecu- 
nued  for  three 
animal,  except 
a). 

iew  of  tho  sen 
le  two  niidship- 


r-VKRY  ri    FIRST    VOYAGE. 


85 


men  Xiiis  and  Keid,  with  a  (piarf er-masler  of  th*^  (Jriper. 
Alii'i'  II  l<»"^  '""'  disai:reea!>ie  march  tlu^v  cana^  to  what 
tliev  consiiiered  to  ho  tho  soa.  Anxious,  howovei',  to 
leave  nothinii  lua'ortain,  they  walkeil  a  few  hundred 
yards  u|)on  the  ice,  and  endeavored,  hy  means  of  a 
l)()ai(liu;i-|tike  and  their  knives,  to  makc^  a  hole  through 
il  ni  order  to  taste  the  water;  hut  alter  tw(j  hours'  la- 
lior  they  only  sncceeiled  in  ffettiiiir  through  two  fo<'t 
of  verv  hard,  brittle,  and  transpart^it  ice,  morir  so  than 
that  of  salt  water  usually  is.  This  did  not  satisfy  I'urry, 
who  returned  to  the  party  left  behind  and  carried  thiMii 
back  with  him  to  llu^  spot.  The  (Iocs  was  penetrated, 
anil  proved  to  bo  fourteen  foot  and  four  inches  in  thi<dv- 
liess  ;  the  water  (lowed  u()  within  tifo'iMi  inches  of  th() 
surface  of  the  icis  and  was  found  to  bo  "not  v»My  salt;" 
sutliciently  so,  however,  tt)  conviiico  thoiu  all  that  it  was 
the  sea  on  which  they  were  standing. 

<  )n  the  lUh  of  .1  unt*  tluy'  set  out  on  their  return,  kill- 
ed three  ptarmigans,  and  saw  a  pair  of  ducks,  and,  two 
(lavs  after,  a  ureat  number  of  brent  f;(!es«'.  some  ptarmi- 
f^aii.  ami  many  siH)W-l)untiniis  ;  tho  constant  and  checu'- 
fid  note  td'th((  latter  reminded  th(>m  of  a  better  country 
— a  worse,  perhaps,  it  would  be  diflicidt  to  tind  ;  it  re- 
minded them  of  home,  this  darling  littbi  bird  be in<f  con- 
sidered the  robin  redbi't'ast  of  the  siiowy  regions.*  Ar- 
ii\t'd  at  ijushnan's  (Jove,  in  Liddon's  (Julf,  on  the  west- 
ern side  ot'  .Mcdville  Island,  tlu^  party  found  "  ono  of  tho 
plea>aiitest  and  most  habitable  spots  we  had  yet  si^en  in 
the  Vrctic  reyions,  the  vegetation  bein^  more  abundant 
and  forward  than  in  any  other  place,  and  the  situation 
sludlered  and  favorable  for  f^ame."  'I'hey  found  liei'o  a 
lioiid  deal  of  moss,  ijrass,  dwarf-willow,  and  saxifrage, 
and  Captain  Sabine  met  with  a  ranunculus  in  full  llower. 
Tims  we  see  that  even  in  this,  the  most  desolate  region 
ol"  the  earth,  the  superiority  of  tlie  wi^storn  coast  pre- 
dominates. Tlui  hunters  saw  and  lired  at  a  nuisk-ox, 
but  did  not  kill  him  ;  they  saw  tilso  several  golden  plov- 
ers, and  one  or  two  boatswains  {Lcalris).  ( )u  tho  1.0th 
they  reached  the  ships,  and  were  complimented  by  tlu^ir 
shipmates  on  their  };oo(l  looks,  and  as  appearing  in  inurti 
j'obiist  healtli  than  when  liiey  departed. 

*  ."ffo  Cuptiiin  Lyon'rf  \'()vuij.j  ri':,'!iriUng  tliia  bird. 

li 


;,f' 


\n\ 


;|V 


A 


.  :mm     "^■■•w-i 


8G 


ARCTIC    VOYAGES. 


Townrfl  tlio  pihI  f)f  h\no.  'A\o  ic(>  n(\:;iin  to  iiinvp  in  tlio 
orfiiij:,  witli  ii  loud,  firiiidiiii;  noise,  and  on  llio  5th  of  .In- 
ly the  tlicnuonM'tcr  rostj  tVoni  ';0  to  o'J  ,  iind  on  the  tAVo 
iollowiiifi;  tliiys  to  oo^.  The  ic(^  in  tlio  Iruhor  mIso  Ijc- 
^iin  to  dissolve,  and  was  there  covci'cmI  with  pools  ot' 
water.  On  the  ITtli  the  teiM))eratnre  i'ose  to  (JO^,  the 
liit,diest  point  it  ever  reached  at  Meivilhi  Islanih  On 
tlie  'J4th  every  thini^  was  complete  for  proc(MMhn,;  to  sea; 
"  tlu^  sails  wert^  bent  in  readiness  for  stai'tini:  at  a  mo- 
ment's notice,  thouj^h  it  must  he  confessed  that  the  mo- 
tive tor  doinif  so  was  to  make  some  show  of  n.oving,  rath- 
er than  any  expectation  J  dared  to  entei'tain  of  soon  os- 
rapinij;  tVom  our  lonj^  and  tedious  continement ;  lor  it  Avas 
impossibh^  to  conceal  from  tlm  men  the  painful  fact,  that 
in  eiiiht  or  nine  weeks  from  this  period  the  naviyahk; 
season  must  \mavoidal)ly  conm  to  a  conclusion.''  Anoth- 
er paintul  fact  was,  that,  hefort^  the  expiiation  of  July, 
the  appr(»acli  of  winter  ainiounced  itself  in  tin?  (hminu- 
tion  of  temperature,  wiiicli  seldom  i-eached  4(P  by  day, 
and  also  by  the  falls  of  sleet  and  snow,  us  well  as  by  the 
})(jols  of  water  frozen  over  in  th«>  night. 

On  the  last  day  of  July  the  whole  body  of  the  ice  in 
the  liarbor  was  perceived  to  be  slowly  moving  out,  break- 
ing away  for  thi^  first  time  at  the  points  which  form  the 
entrance  of  the  harbor. 

The  latitude  and  longitude  of  Winter  Harbor  is  thus 
stated  : 

LMliliid(>  hy  3f)  ineridiiui  ahitudes       .  7P  47'  19"  N. 
Loiiizitutle  by  (iit-J  sets  of  observations, 

C(msisting'of  ()!j()x!  liuiar  disUiuces    .  110^  48' 29"  IT'. 

Dip  of  niaguetic  needle       .         .         ,  81)^4:}' 

VariatitMi  "^ 127^  47'  50"  i?. 

On  the  1st  of  August,  the  day  on  whicli  Lancaster 
Sound  had  been  ent«'red,  the  two  ships  stood  out  of 
Winter  liarbor,  after  liaving  passed  ten  whob;  months 
and  a  part  of  Septembei-  and  August  in  that  dreary  plac(3 
of  imprisomnent.  They  stood  along  the  shore  of  Mel- 
ville Island  to  the  westward,  occasionally  running  in  near 
to  the  beach  to  avoid  the  masses  of  ice  in  motion;  in 
one  place,  the  Ifecla  being  within  twenty  yards  of  the 
beach,  a  })oint  of  land,  which  was  liiied  all  round  with 
lurge  huiamucs  of  ico,  rendered  it  a  most  dangerous  sit- 


^ 


V<! 


TARRY  HI    FIRST    VOYAGC. 


87 


I)  inf)V('  ill  llio 
tlio  oth  of  .lu- 
iii(i  oil  tlic  Xwo 
•iilior  iilso  bc- 
^vitli  pools  ot" 
s(3  to  <iU^,  \]](^ 
!  Isliiiul.  On 
(•(Mlin,:;  to  sea; 
'Uuii.  iit  a  nio- 
1  tluit  the  ino- 
■  ir-oviiii;,  ratli- 
.iii  of  soon  es- 
'tit ;  for  it  \V!is 
iiiful  fact,  tliat 
tho  naviiialjlo 
ion."  Aiiotli- 
ation  of  July, 
n  tli(!  (limiim- 
!(1  4(»^  by  (liiy, 
well  as  by  tho 

f  of  tho  ico  ill 

•iiig  out,  brcak- 

liicli  form  tho 

Harbor  is  thus 

47'  10"  N. 

P  4n'  20"  JV. 

■"  47'  50"  E. 
icli  Lancaster 

stood  out  (jf 
whole;  months 
itdroiiry  ])Ia('(i 
shore  of  Mel- 
unnini;  in  near 

in  niolion :  in 

V  yards  of  tho 

ill  round  with 

dangerous  sit- 


vr.uion;  and  tli<>  moro  so  as  tho  body  of  tho  ico  romiii;; 
in  from  the  westward,  beim:;  distant  from  the  ship  less 
tliiin  half  a  mile,  was  composed  of  lloes  infinitely  mor(> 
heavy  than  any  they  iiafi  (dsewliero  met  with  diirinu  tho 
\(i\;i\:e.  Lieutenant  Liddon  sent  word  that  the  (iriper 
Wiis  also  in  a  situation  exactly  similar  to  that  of  tho  I  lec- 
la.  where  "  nipping"  nppeiired  unavoidable  if  the  (Iocs 
sliiMilil  come  in.  Parry  desired  Liddon  not  to  join  him, 
as  there  wa-<  not  room  for  two  ships.  "  and  the  chance^^ 
of  siuiii;;  oik'  of  them  from  the  catastrophe^  we  had  reas- 
on to  apprehend  were  greater  by  their  lieiiiii;  separate." 

J>y  chance,  and  it  wms  by  diaiico  entirely,  they  os- 
c!i|)ed;  but  had  the  apparent  catastro|)lm  taken  place, 
which  they  had  reason  to  a])pr(dieiid,  not  a  single  beiiii; 
could  have  survived  the  melancholy  fate  that  must  inev- 
itiilily  have  awjiited  them;  all  must  liavc^  jierished  from 
fiiinnie  tind  the  intense  cold  of  tho^approaching  winter. 
This  state  of  things,  and,  indeed,  every  circuiiistaiico 
cniiiiected  with  this  abmniiiablo  island,  must  servo  as  !i 
lieacdii  to  warn  ol'f  any  future  navigator  from  coming  even 
within  siiilit  of  it,  but  to  avoid  it  as  the  ancients  did  Scyl- 
la  or  ('harybdis.  It  is  to  be  hoped,  and  tluM'c^  is  reason 
to  l)elieve.  that  Sir  .lohn  Fnmklin's  attention  has  been 
])aificulaily  drawn  to  this  part  of  Sir  Edward  Parry's 
nai'iative. 

The  ships  remained,  however,  at  or  near  tlio  sniiio 
place,  and  a  mass  of  abo  it  an  acre  in  extent  drove  in  and 
gave  the  Hecia  a  considei-able  "nip,"  and  then  'rra/ed 
p.ast  her  to  the  westward.  'J'he  following  day  another  doo 
came  in,  "and  gave  tho  ship  a  heavy  rub."  I'arry,  howev- 
e;-.  still  peist>vered  in  creejiing  along  the  .'■hore  of  Alelvilb 
isJaiHl.  the  shi])s  sustaining  such  tretp'.ent  .uid  "  severo 
rubs"  thfit  nothing  short  of  tlio  stoutest  timber,  the  most 
sound  and  dexible  iron,  and  tho  most  judicious  construc- 
tion of  the  fabrics,  could  possibly  have  withstood  these 
ire(|nent  rubs  to  wliich  they  were  exposed.  P(!rsever- 
iiig.  liowe\er.  in  this  beach-sailing,  generally  within  lialf 
a  mile  of  it,  till  they  arrived  very  nearly  to  the  western- 
uiost  ])()int  of  the  island,  tli«»  commander,  believing  thero 
was  little  hope  of  making  farther  progress  to  the  west- 
ward, and  having  experienced  during  tho  first  half  of  tho 
Jjuvigublo  season  such  a  continued  series  of  vexations, 


ll 


I  !. 


iH 


ii 


f  «• 


kI''' 


/, 


88 


ARCTIC    VOYAGES. 


rlisa])p<»'mtinonts,  and  delays,  acroinpaniiMl  by  f^ucli  a  con- 
vlaiit  statti  ol  tliiiiu'T  to  llif  sliips,  tell  it  ii<fv  ti»  l)0  no 
loiifi*'!'  justilial)li;  to  pcrscvcif  in  u  iVuillcss  attempt  to  get 
Im  t  he  wotward. 

On  consultinii  the  oHirefs  of  hoth  ships,  tliey  agreed 
^vitll  him  that  any  I'artlier  attempt  t(»  piocetMl  to  th(5 
^vest\va^d  in  that  parallel  would  het  alto<fether  iVuitless  ; 
tliey  also  a,::i'eed  in  the  |)lan  he  proposed  of  innninj;  iiack 
to  the  eastwai'd  alonj^  thv  ed^e  ot"  the;  ieo,  to  look  out  tor 
any  opetiini;  that  ini«iht  lead  them  to  the  AnuM'iean  con- 
tinent, and,  tailing  to  lind  any  such,  to  return  to  Kn^land. 
On  the  -Jiith  ol"  August,  theret'or(%  they  turiuMl  tin;  ships' 
heads  to  tlie  eastward,  and  on  the  morninj^  ot"  the  -JTth 
hud  passed  tlie  eastern  end  ot"  ALdville  Island,  in  an  open 
channel  not  less  than  ten  miles  wide,  all  hands  heartily 
rejoicing  to  take  leav(.i  loiever  ol"  this  island.  W'l?  are 
told,  however,  in  a  note,  that  the  island,  during  their 
stay  ol"  nearly  twelvj  months,  had  alilorded  them  the  fol- 
lowing (pianiity  of  game:  thi'ej;  musk-oxen,  twenty-four 
deer,  sixty-eight  hari's,  lit'ty-three  geese,  fit"ty-nine  ducks, 
and  (jiie  hundred  and  l"orty-l"our  i'*^armigaus,  amounting 
in  w«'ight  to  three  tho\isand  sevcMi  liundrtMl  and  sixty- 
six  poinids  of  meat  ;  that  is  to  say,  it  atl"orde(l  to  each  of 
ninety-four  men  threes  i)ounds  ami  a  half  of  meat  per 
month!  the  products  of  an  island  which  is  staled  to  ex- 
ceed liv'j  thousand  s(pnire  miles. 

( )n  the  ;!lst  of  August  they  repassed  Lancaster  Sound, 
and  on  the  1st  of  Septemher  bore  up  and  ran  along  tho 
land,  taking  their  dejjarture  from  tin;  llag-stalf  in  l*os- 
session  JJay,  on  tlie  southeastern  point  of  the  said  sound. 
As  the  whole  ol"  this  coast  was  run  down  in  l.^^lr',  and 
partially  examined,  it  is  not  necessary  to  follow  the  pres- 
ent expedition  in  uny  renuirks  upon  it;  but  before  the 
ground  be  quitted  on  which  no  less  than  twelve  months 
^ver^^  passed,  from  September,  L"^li),  to  August,  Ij^JO, 
the  temperature  c,l  the  air  in  the  shade  nuiy  bo  noticed  : 

Maxiniuui  (iO-,  Miuiniinn  50\  Range  110°. 

The  mean  of  the  twelve  mouths  -|-1  --li:"}. 

'J'iie  liiwest  t(Mu|)eratiir('  rej^istei'ed  on  tlit.'  ice  was  — 7uP  \ 
it  (lid  not  rise  al)ove  .VI  -  fur  seveiileeu  liours  ou  the  lltli  and 
loth  (if  February,  lu'JO. 

On  the  whole  of  this  eastern  coast  of  Baffin's  and  Du- 


^ 


ich  a  con- 
to  Ik;   iki 
iipt  to  get 

vy  n<;r(MMl 
f(l  to  tlio 

iVuitU'ss  ; 
iiiiiiu:;  i)iick 
jok  out  tor 
■riciiii  coii- 
»  Kniilaiid. 
tlie  ships' 
f  the  ~>7th 
ill  Jill  open 
(Is  lu'iirlily 
\Vc  II ni 
iritm   tlieii' 
I'll!  llir  I'ol- 
weiity-t'oiir 
niiu'  (lucks, 

iiiiiouiitiiij:; 

and  sixty- 
[1  to  each  uf 
f  meat  ptu' 

led  to  ex- 

tcr  Sound, 
iiloiiii  iho 

air  in  l^).'^- 

said  sound. 
Ir^lH,  and 

\v  tlie  pres- 
helore  the 
ve  months 

^ust,  1^-JO, 
)o  noticed  : 


\v;is  — ')'P  ; 
the  11th  and 

in's  and  Da- 


r.VRRV  ri    riRriT    VOYAGE. 


89 


vis's  Strait  tliey  called  only  at  one  pla<"e.  Clyde's  River, 
ill  latitude  70  ">!■-''.  Here  they  rccrivcd  visits  iVoiii  u 
tribe  of  Ksquiinaux,  whose  appearance  and  conduct 
pli'iise(l  them  all  very  much — lively,  j;ood  natured,  and 
clie.'rt'ul.  with  a  preat  inclination  to  jump  uhout  when 
iniicli  pleased,  '•  reiideriiif;  it,"  says  I'airy,  "  a  penalty 
of  no  tridinj;  natui'o  for  them  to  sit  still  for  half  an  hour 
t(im'th(!r."  They  were  decently  clothtMl,  male  and  fe- 
male, and  their  children  e(pially  so,  in  well-dressed  and 
neatly-sewn  seal  skins.  Tiiey  were,  in  fact,  in  all  re- 
spects, iiitinittdy  superior  to  Ross's  Arctic  lliiililaiiders, 
who  pulled  or  ruhhed  noses  jls  a  siilutation.  and  asked  if 
ships  were  not  living  creatures.  lUit  Parry  sluill  hiinselt" 
jiiark  th(^  contrast : 

'•  r|i(iii  the  wlinle,  these  people  may  lie  considered  in  pos- 
si'>si(iii  of  e\ery  necessary  ot  lite,  as  well  as  nt'  most  of  tlie 
(■niiili)rts  and  CDUveniences  which  can  he  .•iijoyed  in  so  nido 
a  r-tale  of  society.  In  the  situation  ioid  <  ircumstaiiccs  ia 
wliicii  \\n'.  I'.stpiimaux  of  N.  (ireeiilaiid  [Ross's  lli^dilaiideis] 
are  pliicrd,  there  is  much  to  excite  compas>ion  li'""  the  low 
state  to  wiiich  hniiian  nature  appears  to  be  there  reduced — a 
st.itr  in  few  respects  superi(»r  to  that  of  the  hear  or  the  seal, 
which  they  kill  i()r  tlieir  suhsisti'uce.  ]iut  with  these  il  was 
iii)|)iissil)le  rot  to  experience  a  f«'eliiicj  ol'  a  more  [ileasiiii^ 
kind:  th<M'e  was  a  respintiiil  decency  in  tlieir  freiienil  be- 
havior, wliicli  at  once  struck  us  as  very  ditfereul  lidin  tliul  of 
the  other  untutored  l",s(|uimaux  ;  and  in  their  persons  thero 
was  less  of  that  intolerabh-  lilth  by  which  these  people  aro 
so  generally  distiiii,Miislie(l.  But  the  superiority  for  which 
they  are  ninst  reniarkabl<>  is,  tlio  j)erfect  lioiiestv  which  clirtr- 
acterized  all  their  dealings  with  us.  During  the  two  hours 
tliaf  the  men  were  on  board,  and  f.>r  four  or  live  hours  that 
wo  were  sul)se(|uenlly  anioiiir  them  on  .xhore,  on  both  which 
occasions  the  temptation  to  steal  trom  us  was,  perliaps,  stron- 
ge;'  t!i;iii  wc  cuii  well  imagine,  and  the  opportiinitv  of  doing 
fo  l)y  no  means  wantiiiiz,  not  a  single  instance  occui'rcd,  to  my 
knowledge,  of  their  piiferiiiL:  tlu;  most  triiliim  artich'.  It  is 
j)leasing  to  record  a  fact  no  less  singular  in  itself  than  honor- 
able to  those  simple  people." — 1'.  "J157. 

Xotliing  material  occurred  in  their  way  across  tlio 
Atlantic,  till  the  afternoon  of  the  "Jtlth  <tf  ()ctober,  when 
they  struck  soundings  in  seventy  tiithoins  in  latitude  .39° 
o")'.  Oil  the  "J-^th  they  wert^  between  Fair  Island  and 
the  Orkneys;  on  the  xi'Jth  made  liuclianess,  and  on  lli« 

11  ;i 


V 


i 


i  ^ 


I 


n 


I! 


■ft 


\> 


!■ 


r!, 


»!  ( 


fl 


l^^i 


4m 


,'j 


'  il 


!  ,'   'I 


H 


«i 


/' 


»t^  «'•       .*. 


90 


ARCTIC    VOYAGE.^. 


fullowJiiji;  (liiy  lh(i  coiniiiandcr  landtMl  at  Pctorlicad,  ac- 
compiiiiiod  liy  Cii|)tiiiii  Siibiiic  and  Mr.  Hoopci',  who  pro- 
ceodcfl  without  dcliiy  to  London,  wlicni  they  arrived  uu 
the  luorniiig  ot'tho  ',k\  of  Sowmlnn;  Id'JU. 

"Such  wiis  the  cxcclk'nt  state  of  ht'iilth  wliich  wo  at  thi;< 
tiuK.'  coatiuuod  to  enjoy  on  hoard  thi'  Ilfcla,  tliut  (hiring  iho 
whoh;  Heasou  of  our  l.itc  navigation  from  \V'inI<?r  Harhor  to 
th(!  coast  of  Scotland,  heiui,'  a  |)eriod  of  thirtrvn  weeks,  not 
a  sinf,'lo  case  liad  ht^en  (nitered  (»n  our  sick-hst,  except  from 
one  or  two  accidents  of  a  trithnir  natiux'  ;  and  1  had  tlie  hap- 
piness <jf  seeing  eveiy  otlic(.'r  and  man  on  i)oard  hoth  sliips 
(willi  oniy  one  exception  out  of  ninety-tijur  persons)  return 
to  tin'ir  native  countiy  in  as  rohust  heahh  as  wlien  tiiey  left 
it,  after  an  ahsenci,'  ot  nearly  eii.'liteeu  mouths,  during  winch 
time  wo  had  heen  living  entirely  on  oiu"  own  resources." — 

It  is  not  intended  h(?ro  to  enter  into  any  detail  of  tho 
ohservations  made,  dnriiii:;  tli<^  voya<:;(',  nor  of  the  scien- 
titic  operations  carried  on  whenevei'  an  opportunity  oc- 
cnrred.  Nothing  was  onutted  whicli  highly  inti-Uigent 
officers  and  tho  hest  instruments  could  supply.  An  ap- 
j)endix,  di'awn  up  on  a  clear  and  well-arrang(;d  principle, 
contains  such  ohservations  and  rennirks  as  were  deemed 
of  most  importance.  The  volume  itself  exhihits  tho 
conduct  and  the  character  of  hoth  ofticiM's  and  men  in 
the  most  praiseworthy  point  of  vi«'W  ;  and  with  regard 
to  tlio  enlightened  comm.iuder  hy  whom  it  was  written, 
it  iH'ed  only  he  repeat«'d  here,  what  has  heen  said  (dse- 
where  :  "  No  oiu^  can  rise  from  the  pei'usal  of  this  work 
without  hoing  impressed  with  the  fulh*'--:  conviction  that 
his  merits  as  an  officer  and  scientific  navigator  aie  of  tho 
higltest  order ;  that  his  talents  are  not  confined  to  his 
j)rofessi()nal  duties ;  hut  that  tho  resources  of  his  mind 
are  eqmd  to  the  most  .u'duous  situations,  and  fertile  in 
expedients  under  every  circumstance,  however  difificult, 
dangei'ous,  or  unexpected."  In  addition  to  all  this.  Par- 
ry nniy  he  said  to  i)ossess  the  true  character  and  spirit 
of  a  Ih'itisli  sailor — open,  straightforward,  and  upiight ; 
his  education  was  such  as  to  inspire  hina  with  a  love  of 
the  j)rofession,  having  entered  the  service  in  IfrOo,  ho.on 
made  a  lieutenant  in  1.^1 0,  and  continued  to  servt?  in 
that  rank  on  the  coast  of  America  till  ldl7,  when  ho 
was  selected,  as  has  heen  related  in  the  jn-eceding  voy- 
cge,  to  conifnand  the  Aiexuudc]-,  as  second  to  Koss. 


^ 


n'ad,  ac- 
vlio  pro- 
•livod  ou 

vc  at  tlli:4 

tu'iiii:  tlio 
llail)!)!-  Ifi 
,ffks,  not 
ccpt  from 
I  the  ha})- 
)((lh  sliii)S 
us)  iL'lunx 
1  they  Iftt 
•ing  whitli 
oiiireri." — 

tail  of  tlio 
tlic  scicn- 
1  unity  oc- 
iiitt'Uigoiit 
.     An  ap- 
1  principle, 
ce  deemed 
thibits  tho 
id  men  in 
ith  re<;;ai(l 
\s  written, 
said  (>lse- 
tliis  work 
iction  that 
ai-e  of  tho 
lied  to  his 
his  mind 
fertile  in 
er  ditilicult, 
this,  Par- 
and  spirit 
id  uprii^ht ; 
I  a  love  of 
iei)3,  been 
to  serve  in 
r,  when  he 
eding  voy- 
o  Koss. 


PARRY  d    FIRST   VOVAGn. 


ni 


Oil  the  present  voyaLje  lie  was  most  rlioerfiilly  and 
riieri^^eticiilly  obeyed  ami  assisted  by  all  liis  orCicers  in 
hdtli  slii[)s;  and,  in  addition  to  the  ordinary  services 
which  navii^ation  and  nautical  astronomy  reciuire,  he  li;id 
till'  beiielit  otCaptain  S.ibiiK.-'s  valuable  and  cordial  co-op- 
eration in  carryini:;  out  a  series  of  experiments  in  a  branch 
of  science  unconnected  with  any  that  rei^ards  navigation — 
the  swiii^iiii^  a  pendulum  for  ascertainiiiL'the  eilipticify  of 
the  eai'tli.  Captain  Sabine,  beiiijj;  a  comu'ctifUi  ot"  Mr. 
Jleiiry  IJrowne,  of  Portland  l*lace,  liad  unrestricted  ac- 
cess to  that  jLjentleman's  observatory  and  valuable  collec- 
tion of  astronomical  instruiiKMits,  some  of  which  wero 
supplied  to  the  |)resent  expedition  ;  and  the  practical  uso 
(it'tliein  was  well  known  to  Captain  Sabine.  In  the  i.p- 
pciidix  to  Commander  Parry's  narrative  we  find  the  cap- 
tain joined  with  other  officers  in  makiiiir  oi)servations  on 
tbo  dip,  the  variation  and  declinaticjii  of  the  niiiynetio 
needle;  in  ascertainiiii;  the  latitudes  and  loiiifitmU^s  by 
thermomoters  jointly  with  Parry,  Ueechcy,  and  Hoop- 
er; and  lunar  ol)S(U'vations  taken  at  Winter  Harbor  and 
at  sea  with  Parry,  IJeecher,  H()o|)er,  and  Ross,  amount- 
in}^  to  the  extraordinary  number  of  six  thousand  eight 
hundred  and  sixty-two. 

Sabine,  in  addition  to  all  those,  describes  (in  tho  ap- 
pendix) tho  subjects  of  natural  history  collected  in  tho 
three  classes  of  mammalia,  birds,  and  fishes.  Jiut  th(3 
most  important  will  probably  la;  considered  that  of  No. 
^',  "  An  accourt,  of  the  expcu'iments  to  determine  tho 
accehu'ation  of  the  pendulum  in  din'erent  latitudes," 
which  would  appear  to  have  been  the  joint  labor  of 
Parry  and  Sabiiu^  "  Tlui  acciihuital  discovery,"  it  is 
said,  "that  a  pendulum,  t)n  being  removed  from  Paris 
to  the  neighborhood  of  the  equator,  incrtuised  its  tiino 
ot"  vibration,  gavc^  tlu!  first  step  to  our  present  knowledgo 
that  the  polar  axis  of  the  globe  is  loss  than  thi^  e(piat()- 
rial,  and  that  the  force  of  gravity  at  the  surfac(!  of  tho 
earth  increases  progressively  from  tin)  ecpnitor  toward 
the  polos."  In  the  j)resent  instance  two  clocks  wero 
used  in  these  exp(u-iments,  being  the  ])roperty  of  the 
Royal  Society,  and  the  smne  which  accompanied  Ca[)- 
tain  Cook  round  the  world  ;  and  the  result  is  stated  to 
bo,  that  tJio  mean  daily  acceleration  of  tho  two  clocks 


I.! 


jv; 


It: 


{ 


*  <\ 


ll 


li 

r 


;,vi 


i 


'it 


'0 


I 


,rr 


02 


ARCTIC    VOYAGES. 


was  scviMity-foiir  tliousaml  seven  liiiiidred  and  tliirty- 
fonr  vihiiitions,  wliieli  is  cnnsidei-ed  us  tluj  true  iicceluiu- 
tiDii  of  u  penduinni  between  the  liitiliides  ol  '  .'Jl'  llrt  ' 
(r.onddii)  and  7  1  17'  1  J"  {.Melville  Uland)  ;  and  the 
dediution,  wliicli  was  obtained  iVoni  the  result  of  the 
arcidoration  Ixjlween  London  and  Moivillo  island,  ^uves 
the  iliniinuliou  of  ^^ravity  from  the  polt^  to  the  eipiator 
to  ho  -OOOo-Jort  ;  and  this  decimal  gives  for  the  cllipticity 
of  tlio  earth,  ^j-pTTTr- 

J{ut  as  Captain  Sal)in(!  in  the  year  18'21  (the  next  fol- 
lowinjr  that  of  his  arrival  in  Kn;:land)  eiul)arked  on  a 
most  ar(lu(»us  undertaUinjf  to  investiyatt;  the  last-nuMi- 
lioned  subject  in  hijih  latitudes,  an  account  of  his  voya- 
ges and  operations  will  l)e  j-esumed  hereaft»M*. 

it  may  perhaps  Ins  deemed  presmnptuous  in  a  lands- 
man viMituring  to  differ  iVom  so  expert  and  complete  u 
seaman  as  Connuander  l*arry  ;  hut  it  is  undei-  a  C(»n- 
viction  that  he  will  not  l>e  displeased  at,  but  take  in  good 
part,  a  few  desultory  remarks,  though  not  I'xactly  cor- 
res|)ondent  with  his  own  opinion.  "Our  experience," 
he  says,  ••  1  think  has  clearly  siiown  that  the  navigation 
of  the  l*oIar  seas  can  never  las  perfornu>d  with  any  de- 
gree of  certainty,  without  a  continuity  of  land.  It  was 
only  by  watcdiing  tins  occasioiud  openings  betwjM'U  tin* 
ice  and  the  shoris  that  our  late  pi-ogi-ess  to  the  west waid 
was  ell'ectcMl  ;  and  had  tins  land  continued  in  tins  desired 
direction,  tln-re  can  be  no  (piestion  that  we  shoidd  have 
continued  to  advance,  however  slowly,  toward  the  com- 
pletion of  our  (Miterprise."'  'Vlw  ol)jection  about  to  be 
olfered  is  not  to  the  ''slow  advance,''  l)Ut  to  the  chance 
of  no  advani  ts  at  all,  and  to  the  extreme  ha/.ard  of  tins 
loss  of  the  ship  and  crew,  which  liad  lusarly  happened 
in  the  present  instance,  and  did  actually  liappen  to  tlie 
ship  on  a  future  occasion,  by  a  nip,  or  rub,  or  i)ressuro 
between  the  ice  and  the  shore  ;  to  say  nothing  of  the 
constant  appr(shension,  the  anxiety,  and  incessant  threat- 
ening of  momentaiy  destruction,  which  occurred  along 
the  whole  coast  of  Melville  Island,  and  tins  fre(|ueiit 
"  rubs"  and  "  nips"  which  both  ships  experienced  be- 
tween the  sea  ice  and  the  shorts  ice,  when  nothing  but 
extreme  watchtulness  and  good  management  could  p  s- 
sibly   luivo  saved  them  from  being  crusiied.     Instead, 


1 


PARRY  rf   FIRST    VOYAGE. 


93 


11(1  tliirly- 
'  ucct'luru- 
L  '  'Al'  06" 
:  and  tlio 
lilt  of  tlm 
liiiid,  f;ivt's 
in  (■(|ii!it(ir 
>.  e Hi pt icily 

If!  next  fol- 

i-k(Ml  oil  il 

liisr-inoii- 

'  his  voyii- 

in  a  lunds- 

•oiiiplt'tn  il 

iUt  il  coii- 
ikr  in  iiood 
xiictly  cor- 

LIXM-it'lH'C," 

niivi^atiou 
itli  any  (h;- 
d.      It  was 

'tWJM'll    tllP 

•  westward 
K^  dosirt'd 
)uld  have 
tho  com- 
)0".lt    to    l)o 
al  (diaiico 
rd  ot"  tlio 
lia[)i)(MUMl 
)t'ii  to  tho 
pressuro 
111;  ot"  tho 
ant  threat- 
iToil  aloiit; 
c  tr('(|ueiit 
(•need  1)0- 
thiiii;  l)iit 
ould  |J   H- 
Instead, 


flioi'eforo,  of  ImviriL'  fo  "  watrli  the  orrasioinl  nponinp;^ 
liriweeii  the  ice  and  tlie  slntre."  wonlil  it  not  lie  nioi-(^ 
(lesirahlt!  to  avoid  iilacini;  thi'  ship  het'veeii  the  ice  and 
the  shore  !  to  keep  iis  far  as  possible  iVoni  the  shore, 
ami  trust  to  an  open  sea,  free  from  land  of  any  kind, 
even  with  th(^  usual  (piantity  of  loose  ice,  lioininocs,  (»r 
llocs  ?  A  ship,  it  is  pr«'sniiHMJ,  may  always  make  her 
wav  thi'oiiyh  such  a  sea  with  little  or  no  danjier.  as  is 
well  known  to  tiie  wliale-lishiiij;  ships,  whicli  carefully 
avoid  coininu  near  an  ice-bound  coast. 

Ayainst  winterinti;  in  tlu;  ice  tliere  are  iinnierons  ob- 
jections, thonjih  tile  detention  can  not  always  be  avoich'd. 
( )iie  of  them,  but  ix'thaps  the  least  serious,  is  the  ;,':".'at, 
inconvenience  and  discomfort  which  the  officers  and 
crew  imist  unavoidably  be  subject  to,  without  any  chanco 
of  coinpeiisatioii  by  carryinj;  out  the  objects  of  the  expe- 
ditinn — without  hope  of  thereby  advancins;  (Hscovery  or 
i^eof^raphical  knowledge.  And  althoufj;h  tiio  liardships 
of  winterini;  in  the  ice  have  been  shown,  on  the  present 
occasion,  to  admit  of  mitigation,  when  thc^y  hapjxMi  uu- 
(li-r  so  able  and  discreet  an  officer  as  Commander  I'ar- 
ry,  whose  resources  are  inexhaustible,  it  may  fall  to  tho 
lot  of  another,  whose  mind  is  l<>ss  fertih;  in  ex|)(Mlierits 
to  soften  them.  Auotlier  objection  may,  perhaps,  bo 
raised  against  the  danger  that  is  likely  to  be  incurred ; 
but  this  by  caution  and  attention  may  generally  be  pro- 
vided ajjauist.  A  third,  and  one  of  the  first  import- 
ance in  most  cases,  is  tho  utter  inutility  of  wintering  in 
the  Arctic  seas;  for  no  harbors  are  known  that  are 
not  filled  with  ice  for  eight  or  nine  months  in  the  year. 
and  the  ship  must  be  secui-ed  in  ice  that  is  already 
thick  and  firm  by  the  close  of  the  season,  generally  mak- 
ing it  necessary  to  cut  a  canal,  at  an  immense  labor, 
so  as  to  be  floated  to  a  place  of  safety ;  and  it  is  most 
likely  to  happen  that,  before  she  can  be  got  out  again, 
the  following  season  is  so  far  expired,  that  all  the  ser- 
vic(>  she  can  then  undertake  is  to  get  home,  with  tho 
loss  of  a  year. 

After  all,  it  is  but  a  choice  of  evils,  to  winter  or  return 
when  the  first  obstruction  commences.  In  tliat  pcn'tion 
of  the  globe  in  question,  a  short  passage  home  is  next  to 
certain,  whether  beset  in  the  ice  or  in  an  open  sea,  as  the 


I  .1 
i 

V  t 

I 


ill 


ly 


;'i; 


't  • 


I 


tV 


11 


01 


ARCTIC    VOVAfiLS. 


Aviiid  is  gt'iicDilIy  fuvonililc  for  n  sontlicni  voyn^»\  nml  llm 
current  almost  nlwiiys  so;  l)iif  it  may  liiipix-ii  that  nn 
rhoirr  is  Id't,  and  tlicii  to  winter  lias  liecoim'  a  matter  of 
necessity;  and  Parry  lias  laid  down  an  admiraltle  rod(i 
ol  instructions  for  any  oik!  reduced  to  tliat  emeri^ency. 


C II AFTER  V. 
tfl)DI\\DER  CLAVERIM;  AND  CAPTAIN  SABINE,  R.A. 

lH0-2-lfi23. 


1.  Jniirnnl  of  a  Voyose  to  l^pifzhrrsfn  fJnd  the  Kasf  Const 
of  Gri'i'iihinil,  in  IHx  Majrsfijs  Ship  Cirijur,  I).  C.  C'r.A- 
vr.iuNCi,  Ks(|.,  ('(niiiiiaiiilcr. 

2.  An  Arrotiiit  of  ll.riirrinu'nls  fo  (hfrrminr.  the  Fipvre  of  the 
Karlh  III!  mcdiis  of  thi'  I'lnihil inn  rihrtitixi!  srromfs  in  lif- 
frrrnf  hitilndra ;  an  veil  ax  on  sonic  olhrr  siilijvrfx  of  Phil- 
oso/ihirril  Iiii/iiiri/.  J5y  Kuwakd  .Saium;,  Cai)tiiiu  in  tlio 
Uoyal  Artillfiy. 

It  was  considered  oxjiedient  to  introduce  n,  brief  no- 
tice^ of  tliis  voyage  aiiioiiii;  those?  sj)ecially  sent  into  tla^ 
Arctic  reu;ions  for  tlio  purpose  of  discovery,  and  for 
two  reasons:  fust,  that  ('oinmander  Claverinir  was  to 
he  oi'der«Ml  to  proceed  to  Spit/,l)er}j;en,  and  thence  to  the 
oast  coast  of  (Ireeiiland.  and  tlnit  on  the  latter  In;  suc- 
ceeded in  reachins:;  a  higher  deo;ree  of  latitude  than  any 
former  or  suhsetpient  naviifator  had  elfected  ;  and,  sec- 
ondly, that  he  cai'ried  out,  lii-st  in  the  Pheasant,  and 
tli(>n  in  the  Giij)er,  Captain  (now  Lieutenant-colonel) 
Sabine,  who,  very  shortly  after  his  return  from  the 
first  voyage  of  Parry  to  the  Arctic  Sea,  recommenced 
that  series  of  observations  on  the  leniith  of  the  seconds' 
pendulum  which  were  made  in  the  Ileda. 

Captain  Sabixk,  impelled  by  tlie  zeal  and  lovo  of 
science  for  which  he  is  distina;uished,  hastened  to  pro- 
ceed, in  the  first  instance,  to  Sierra  Leone,  in  the  Iphi- 
jienia,  on  the  21.M  of  February,  18'22,  and  completed  his 
])en(lulum  exj)erinients  theio  in  April.  Sir  Kobcu-t 
blends  there  assigned  the  Pheasant  to  convey  him  to 


1 


v 


CI.AVKUING    AMJ    riAUIM;. 


05 


;o,  nml  tho 

•II  tliiit    no 

lllllltl'l'   of 

nililr  <'(m1(< 


IINE,  R.A. 


K,/sf  Coast 
I).   (.'.   Cl.A- 

''iij^iirr  (if  the 
'oiiils  ill  ilif- 
rrfs  of  Phil- 
[)tiiiu  in  tho 

a  brirf  no- 

iMit  into  tlii^ 

y,   niul   tor 

'mil  ^vas  to 

(Mico  to  tho 

or  li(!  siu'- 

Ic!  thuii  any 

;   and,  scc- 

3asant,  and 

int-('f>1onol) 

IVoni   tho 

•oninioiicod 

10  soconds' 

nd  love  of 
led  to  pro- 

11  the  ]|)lii- 
nplotod  his 
>ir  Kobort 
vey  hiiu  to 


lli(^  several  Atlantic,  stations  whoro  in-  was  dosirous  to 
swiiiu  liis  prndulnin.  mostly  in  tho  W'rsI  Indies  and  to 
tlh>  .sdiiliiwnrd  ol'tho  lim',  as  far  as  Ax-onsiciii. 

('oMMWPKii  ('i,.\VKuiN(i,  of  tho  IMioasant.  was  an 
(tlVicer  well  vrrsed  in  the  scicntilic  dntio.s  of  a  navigator, 
Hiid  a  iViondship  was  sprodily  formed  hi-tweeii  the  two 
nlficers  that  ceased  only  with  tln^  death  of  tho  snijor, 
wliich  iia|)peiied.  when,  in  the  year  1H-J7,  he  (•(amnand- 
ed  tlie  Kedwin;:,  whicli  ship  sailed  from  the  c(,  'st  of 
Atrica.  and.  Iteinii  never  after  heard  <»!",  is  snpposed  to 
have  fonndereil,  and  all  on  hoard  to  have  perished.  It 
is  >tiited  hy  Mr.  .lames  Smith,  the  editcn*  of  the  voyain', 
that  such  was  the  aide  and  zealons  matnier  in  which 
('onanaiider  ('laverin;^  co-opei"ite(l  with  ("aptain  Sa- 
l)ine,  that  the  latter  was  n(»t  only  enahied  t(»  make  tlio 
ohservations  at  eveiy  station  in  the  most  satisfactory 
iiiMniicr,  hilt  without  tlie  sliijhtest  accident  ever  havinu; 
tiikeii  placid  in  movin|irtli(;  niinuM'oiis  and  delicate  instrii- 
iiieiils  to  and  from  tlu^  sliip.  The  observations  beiiij; 
c.piiipleted  at  Sierra  Leone,  the  places  next  to  b«'  visited 
were  tlu!  Island  of  St.  'J'homa.s,  Ascension,  Haliia, 
iMaraiiham,  Trinidad,  .lamaica,  and  N»'W  York  ;  to 
all  of  whi(d>  i)laces  Captain  Sabino  whs  conveyed  in 
Miccession  by  tlie  Pheasant,  and  made  his  |)enduliim 
ohservalions  at  each  of  them  in  a  manner  satist'actory  to 
liiinself ;  and  those  observatioiis  were  published  by  tho 
Hoard  of  Longitude,  and  will  briefly  be  noticed  hero. 
The  two  officers,  it  is  said,  executed  a  valnabk;  and  ex- 
tensive series  of  observations  on  the  direction  and  force 
of  the  (Mpiatorial  current. 

Iininediately  alter  the  arrival  of  the  Pheasant  in  Kni;- 
lund,  on  the  5th  of  t'ebriiary,  1.-<"J."5,  Captain  Sal)ine 
su^irestod,  through  Sir  lliimphrey  Davy,  that  the  ex- 
tension of  similar  experimcMits  would  be  desirable  if 
carried  on  in  high  latitudes,  iiiid  that  lu^  was  ready  (as 
lie  ever  is  when  the  calls  of  science  recpiii-(;  it)  to  under- 
tak(!  this  service.  The  (iriper,  fjun-brig,  was  appropri- 
ated forthwith  for  that  purpose,  and  on  the  'Jfitli  of  Feb- 
ruary Clavering  was  ap|)ointed  to  command  her.  Tho 
plan  of  tho  voyaye  proposed  by  Captain  Sahine  was,  to 
proceed  in  the  first  instance  to  llammerfest,  near  the 
North  Capo  of  Norway,  about  the  70lii  tlegree  of  lati- 


1.* 


\\ 


If 


',' 


if  I 


Vi 


ii 


i 


9G 


ARCTIC    VOYAGES. 


tilde  :  tliPiicc  to  a  scroiid  stntioii,  in  or  iicnr  the  POth 
])iinillel,  on  the  iioitlu'in  const  of  Spit/boijicii  ;  al'ter- 
•\Viir(i  to  iiiiikc!  tlie  ojj.st  cftiist  of  ( Jrcciilio:;!,  in  as  hifjli  n 
latitude  as  tlie  hari'icr  of  ice,  whicli  lenders  tliat  coast 
difficult  of  access,  v>-onld  periiiit,  and  havinji  j^ut  within 
the  barrier,  to  ascend  the  c(»ast  to  the  northward  as  far 
as  niif^ht  be  compatible  the  same  year,  in  order  to  ob- 
tain a  third  pendulum  station  for  Captain  Sabine's  expcM- 
iments  at  the  highest  degree  of  latitude  that  might  be 
there  attained. 

He  was  then  to  return  to  the  southward,  and  if  Ca])- 
tani  Siibine  should  wish  for  a  fourth  station  on  the  coa.st 
of  FceliUid,  he  was  to  use  his  discretion,  accoi'ding  to  tlie 
states  of  tlie  weather  and  th(^  time  of  the  3('ar,  to  stop  at 
that  island  ;  if  not,  a  fourth  station  might  be  sought  else- 
where, in  or  about  the  same  parallel,  and  after  that  to 
return  to  England.  The  equipment  of  the  (Jriper  being 
conij)leted,  and  the  magnetical  pendulmn,  with  the  va- 
rious instniments  for  astronomical  and  other  scientific 
puiposes,  being  embarked  by  the  second  week  in  May, 
she  sailed  from  the  Nore  on  tlie  11th  of  that  month  for 
lliimmeifest,  where  she  arrived  on  the  4th  of  .June. 

This  place,  built  on  a  small  island  named  Qualoen,  or 
"Whale  Island,  is  said  to  consist  of  about  a  dozen  iiouses. 
The  bay  is  small,  but  tlie  anchorage  good  and  safe  ;  the 
only  provisions  to  be  got  liere  were  reindeer,  which 
were  dieap ;  the  trade  is  entirely  in  fish  and  oil.  The 
iii'.tives  are  described  as  kind  and  hospitable,  and  were 
pleased  at  the  idea  of  a  visit  from  even  such  a  smnll 
man-ofwar  as  the  (i  riper.  The  women  are  fair  and 
pretty,  and  dress  much  like  our  own  ;  remote  from  the 
civilized  world,  tlu>y  are  untainted  bv  either  its  vices  or 
its  wants.  Morality  and  religi*  strictly  predomi'.ite, 
and  deviations  from  either  are  rare.  Mr.  Crowe,  an 
English  merchant,  wlio  acts  as  consul,  resides  here,  and 
paid  the  visitors  much  attention.  The  latitude,  70°  40' ; 
the  dip  of  the  needle,  77°  40'. 

On  the  123d  of  .Tune,  Captain  Sabine  having  finished 
his  observations,  the  Griper  pui  to  sea  the  same  even- 
ing;  on  the  27th,  fell  in  with  the  first  ice  off  Cheiry 
Island,  in  latitude  75°  5'.  a  gale  of  wind  then  blowing  ; 
saw  Spitzbergen  in  the  evening,  and  fell  in  with  a  great 


T' 


ir  the  Pnth 
ij(Mi ;  }il"t(! I'- 
ll as  lii^li  ii 
that  coHsi 
;  jjot  witliiii 
w.ird  MS  far 
ii'dci"  to  ol)- 
iiif's  ex|)(M- 
iit  might  bo 

nnd  if  Cap- 
in  the  const 
rditifi;  to  tlie 
r,  to  stoj)  at 
■^ou<;lit  elsc- 
ifter  that  In 
iiiper  beiiii; 
\itli  the  va- 
er  scientific. 
3ek  in  May, 
It  month  for 
of  .Iniie. 
Qual(H'n,  or 
/,en  houses. 
1(1  safe  ;  tlic 
leer,  wliicli 
d  oil.     The 
',  and  were 
iich  a  small 
e  fair  and 
»te  from  the 
its  vices  or 
edomi'.ite, 
Crowe,  an 
s  here,  and 
e,  70°  40' ; 

ing  finished 
ame  even- 
off  Cheny 
n  blowing  ; 
vith  a  great 


CLAVERIXG    AND    SABINK. 


07 


nmiihcr  of  walruses.  On  the  .']Oth  rounded  1  laUluyt'.s 
JIfadlaiid,  anchored  aoreast  of  a  small  island,  one  of  the 
inner  Nuiweys,  and  the  same  on  which  ('a|)taiii  I'liipps 
iii;i(ic  his  observations  in  177.'!;  dist'iiibarkcd  the  tiN.ts 
.-Mid  iiistiniiicnts,  and  sent  jiartics  on  shore  to  erect  theiii. 
Two  icindci.'r  and  a  walrus  were  killed  on  the  iieigh- 
boilnu'  island  of  \'og(d  iSung.  l''rom  hence  Commander 
Cliivfiiiii:  determined  to  push  as  far  to  the  northward  as 
lie  tould,  while  Captain  .Sabiiu^  was  carrying  on  his 
pciidiibim  observations,  leaving  jicre  tor  his  assistance  a. 
party  of  six  men  under  the  command  of  Mr.  J"'oster 
Mild  .Mr.  Ho'.vland,  assistant  siii'geoii,  together  with  his 
la;i(li.  and  six  months'  provisions  and  fuel,  to  carry  them 
to  llainmerfest,  should  any  accident  hap|)eii  \o  tlie  C»ri- 
pcr  ill  her  abstuice.  lie  sailed  (in  the  .")th  of  July,  and 
lau  diKi  north  twenty-live  miles  from  ('loveii  (.'lilf; 
joiiiid  himself  embayed  amoiiij;  the  ice  ;  and  on  the  (ith 
the  ship  struck  against  something,  whi(di  turned  out  to 
be  ice.  This  was  discovered  on  the  tog  disptu'siiig, 
when  a  (ield  of  pfu'ked  ice  jirescnted  its(df  to  view,  ex- 
tending east  and  west  as  far  as  the  eye  could  reach;  the 
latitiuie  observed  was  HO^  -JO',  wliicli  was  the  most  north- 
ern obtained,  for,  iiaving  skirted  the  margin  in  a  line 
jiearly  west  for  al>out  sixty  miles,  and  finding  it  trending 
Jo  the  southward,  and  (Mcrywlierc^  closely  packed,  and 
perceiving  no  ajipearance  of  an  opening  or  of  clear  water, 
it  was  deemed  us(dess  to  proceed  farther,  and  the  (iri- 
jier  retnrned  to  the  station,  whi(  h  she  rea(died  on  tiie 
ilth  of  .Inly. 

Captain  Sabint^  having  completed  his  operations — a 
parly  having  killed  about  fifty  reindeer,  as  a  supply  of 
fresh  provisions,  and  every  thing  b(Mng  re-(!nibarked  on 
the  -^-^d  of  .J  Illy — on  the  "JJth  they  put  to  sea.  and  ste(M'ed 
.■^.W.  for  tin*  eastern  coast  of  (ireenlaiid,  a  course  that 
would  bring  them  to  (ia<d  ilainkes'  I  Jay.  in  about  the 
Lititiide  of  74^,  this  being  considered  as  the  highest 
ptiiiif  known  lo  the  north  on  that  coast.  After  many 
iinpe(liin('iits  from  fi(dds  of  ice.  they  reaclie(l.  on  the  "^th 
of  AiiLMist,  a  tol(M-ably  open  chaiiii(d  b(,'tweeii  the  ice 
and  the  coast,  and  sent  a  boat  on  shore  at  a  point  which. 
was  named  Cape  I'orlase  Warren;  "than  which,'' 
(.'Javering  says,  "never  was  there  u  more  desolate  ^pot 
7      ^    '  I 


1V 


fi 


';l 


!'• 

•j     .   , 

'It 


If. 


98 


ARCTIC   VOYAGES. 


seen  ;  Spify^hcrjicii  was,  on  \\\('  wl'olo.  a  pnradiso  to 
this  place.''  I'locccdiiiif  akmi;  the  coast,  iiinoiii;  (Iocs 
of  ice,  they  discovered  two  islaiids,  to  which  tliey  gave 
the  naiiie  ot' the  J*eiidiilum  Islands. 

(,'lavei'iiiif  passed  th<!iri,  and  stood  on  to  tlie  northward 
till  stopped  by  ic(^ ;  and  ho  had  now  readied  what  he  con- 
sidered to  he  the  N.E.  point  of  (ireenland,  formed  by 
an  ishnid,  in  lat.  7 ')°  1'^',  from  the  heights  of  which  could 
])lirndy  be  seen  higli  land,  due  noith.  at  least  as  far  as  hit. 
7(i^.  Il<^  named  the  island  Slumnon  island,  and  tlu; 
►S.E.  extremity  Cape  Philip  IJroke.  "  from  the  shi])  it 
was  my  good  fortnne  to  serve  in,  and  under  her  gallant 
commander  hero  named." 

(jetting  under  way,  the  Gripcn*  retiu-ned  to  the  south- 
ward in  a  narrow  channel  close  to  the  shore,  on  which 
shi'i  grounded  in  '2}j  tathoms  ;  was  got  off  by  lightening 
lu'r :  anchored  in  a  shelttsred  hay  between  one  of  the 
]*endulum  Islands;  lanih'd  Captain  Sabine,  the  observa- 
tory, tents,  and  instruments  ;  and  j)iepare(l  the  yawl  and 
wherry  for  a  distant  excui'sion,  while  Sabine  was  em- 
])loye(l  in  his  peinhdum  experiments.  On  the  Kith  of 
August  lie  set  out,  taking  with  him  tlu'ee  officers  and 
sixteen  men.  They  landed  on  Cape  Horlase  Warren. 
al)out  eighteen  miles  to  the  southward,  with  each  a  boit- 
cloak  and  a  blanket;  sle])t  in  them,  a)id  found  no  incon- 
venience from  tlu'  cold  ;  and  this  was  continued  for 
twelve  nights,  tlu^  temperatiu'e  not  lower  than  12.T. 
Here  they  found  traces  of  natives,  and  several  graves. 
Proceeding  up  an  arm  of  tlu;  bay,  wliicdi  runs  iidand.  a 
tent  of  s(^al  skins  was  foimd  on  tlu^  beach,  and  two  nii- 
tives  appeared  on  the  heights.  They  W(M'(^  at  liist  I'atti- 
er  shy,  but,  by  degrees,  acquired  contidence.  They  ap- 
peariMl  not  to  differ  in  any  respect  from  the  connnoii 
race  of  Esquimaux  :  the  whole  ti-ibe  amounted  but  to 
twelve.  Their  surprise  was  roused  only  by  witnessing 
some  of  the  crew  tiring  at  a  mark  with  nuiskets.  A  ])is- 
tol  was  given  to  one  of  the  natives,  who  fired  into  the 
water  ;  the  recoil  startled  liiiu  so  much  that  he  immedi- 
ately slunk  away  into  his  tent.  The  following  morniiii:, 
being  tin*  tliird.  it  was  found  tliey  had  all  departed,  leav- 
ing every  thing  behind  them  ;  their  sudden  retreat  being 
no  doubt  occasioned  by  their  alarm  at  the  liring. 


1 


pnrafliso  to 
iiMioiijj;  (Iocs 
;h  thi^y  giivo 

le  northwanl 
wliat  liecoii- 
1,  Ibrnied  by 
which  could 
as  far  as  lat. 
1111(1,  and  tlin 
II  tho  ship  it 
!r  her  gallani 

to  the  south- 
ire,  on  whicli 
by  lighteniiii: 
!U  one  of  tilt' 
,  th(;  obsorva- 
the  yawl  and 
»ine  was  om- 
1  the  Kith  (if 
^  officers  and 
lase  \Varr(Mi, 
1  each  a  l)()-it- 
lud  no  incoii- 
r-ontimied  for 
er  than    2.T. 
neral  graves. 
runs  iidand.  a 
and  two  na- 
»  at  lii'st  ]-atli- 
.     Tliey  ap- 
th(^  conunoii 
)nnted  t)ut  to 
)y  WMtnessiui; 
<ets.     A  i)is- 
ired   into  the 
t  he  imniedi- 
ing  mornini:. 
•|)arted,  leav- 
retreat  being 
iring. 


CLAVERING    A\D   SABINE. 


99 


Tbe  party  had  now  advanced  to  an  extensive  bay.  or, 
rathei*,  an  inland  basin,  wliose  circninference  could  not 
1)1'  less  tlian  fifty  miles.  It  was  ])ei'fectly  i'vrt'  of  ice, 
not  one  piece  being  visibk^  in  this  innnenso  she(>t  of  wa- 
ti'i'.  (Mavering  thiid\S  it  the  same  which  was  discovei-ed 
1)V  (ia(d  Hamkes  in  1(!.")4,  an  .  which  benrs  his  nanu'. 
Ill  an  inlet  from  this  bay,  tin  monntains  oji  botli  sides 
wei'e  of  a  great  height,  ending  in  immense  glacier..,  at 
Ifjist  .')()(M)  feet  high.  ( )ii  the  -Jiith  of  August  they  reach- 
etl  the  slii|)s,  after  a  fatiguing  absenct^  of  thii'teen  days. 
( »ii  the  tollowing  day  ('ai)lain  Sabine  concluded  liis  ob- 
servations, the  tents  and  instrnnuMits  wei-e  re-embarUed, 
and  on  the  ;Ust  of  August  the  (iriper  got  under  way. 
The  latitude  of  the  observatoiy  on  Pendulum  ' -iland  is 
71-  .".-J'  lf»"  N.,  longitude  L-  '■  .',()'  \V. 

The  shores  to  th(>  southward  contimu'd  about  .TOOO 
feet  high,  along  wliicdi  the  shij)  ))roceeded  in  a  chamiel 
of  clear  water,  the  ice  being  live  or  six  miles  from  the 
shore.  Aijoiit  Cape  Pai'ry,  howcn'er,  latitude  7'2t,^,  in 
a  nai'row  lane  of  water,  two  lloes  suddenly  closed  to- 
gether, and  th.-  tongues  projecting  beneath  (calns  they 
are  usually  called),  pressed  the  ('i-ipei-  between  them 
and  lifted  h«M*  abaft  considerably  out  of  the  water.  She 
got  clear  without  much  damage  :  !)ut  the  ice  was  hang- 
ini:  about  Cape  Pai'ry  so  close  to  the  shoie.  that  the 
commander  wisely  stood  out  to  sea.  and  (»n  tlie  l.'Uh  of 
Se|)teml)er  the-  (Jripei'  (ina.lly  quitted  the  const  of  (Ireen- 
liuid.  th(>  whole  lin<?  along  whiidi  th(\v  had  sailed  biding 
from  ','000  to  ;5()()()  feet  in  height,  with  moiuitains  in  the 
int(M'ior  ptM'haps  doid)l(>  that  height.  A  violent  gale  came 
on.  and  the  shij)  was  secured  to  a  mass  of  ice  ;  received 
seveial  severe  shocks  ;  the  hawsei's  and  sti'cani  cables 
giive  way  :  alsf)  two  chain  cablt>s  and  two  large  hawsers; 
the  gale  increased;  largo  nnisses  continually  rolled  in; 
the  pressure  becanie  so  violent  that  the  whole  of  them 
])art('d  before  daylight.  '•  ( )ui-  situaticm."  says  the  com- 
mander, "was  now  a  most  anxious  one:  the  gale  cou- 
tiiiiied  with  unabnted  violem  e.  and  the  ship  di'ove  to  'he 
.-iiiithwai'd  among  loose  ice  and  heavy  lloes,  whic-h,  fnuu 
till'  darkness  ol'  t'..>  night,  we  coidd  neither  sec;  nor 
avoid."  'j'he  admirable  manner,  he  says,  in  wlfich  tho 
I'll  lie  (Iriper  hud  been  streugtlieued,  uUuwed  her  to  beiu" 


if! 


•X 


'  'I  < 


1^ 


I 


'I 


i 


y.  'j « ■/ 


f   I  -» 


100 


ARCTIC    VOVAGKS. 


tliP  Rpvcro  slidcks  without  l)t'iii2;  iiijunMl;  tlici  licnviost 
shocks  sho  r«!C(!i'('(l  oiiist  have  knocked  ii  ( iri'i'iiliiii(hiiiiti 
to  pieces. 

'^i'h(!  <:iil(^  coiitimi'iiif,  (h'ove  tliem  to  tlu'  soiitliward, 
niid  on  the  "Jiid  of  SroteiulxT  tliey  niiide  the  coiist  of 
Norway  in  latitii(h'  (i:V^  hW.  On  th(^  Ist  of  ()ctol)er  tlie 
(ij'iper  struck  hard  on  a  sunken  rock,  inid  f^ot  off  undiun- 
niied  :  on  the  Itii  entered  J)ronth(>iui  J-'iord,  and  on  the 
(ith  an(dioi-ed  in  the  harl)or  ;  and  "we  were  I'eceived,'' 
sfivs  ('lavei'iiiii;,  "  witli  the  greatest  kindness  and  hospi- 
taiitv."  Captain  Sid)in«^  having  completed  liis  experi- 
ments here,  tlie  (Jriper  procee(h'd  down  the  tiord  on  the 
l.'>th  of  October,  was  detciinecl  iti  the  naj'iows  till  the 
l!>th,  and  uiiain  windl)ound  till  the  l)d  of  Deceiuher,  wlien 
she  Wiis  lihernted.  and  reacdu-d  Dejjtford  on  the  llUh  of 
fliat  month,  l&2'.\. 

Wf  now  prarciuj  to  ^/re  a  britf  account  of  Ctipta'ui, 
^(ihinc's  h/hors. 

The  volume  of  Ciiptain  Sabine,  from  whicdi  the  follow- 
iiii:  notii'e  is  taken,  idfords  an  extraoidinary  instance  of 
personal  and  nieiitfd  Jipplication  on  distant  voyayes  and 
VMrions  clinuites  within  the  H^'opics  and  tlu;  Arctic  re- 
iiions.  and  (»f  inttdlectual  exertion  and  inchistry  not  eiisiiy 
to  be  paralleled.  It  consists  of  uu)re  than  li\e  luuKh'ed 
])ai:es  of  o!)serv;iti(>ns,  carefully  arriuiyed  under  various 
heads,  made  with  tiimsit  instruments,  chronoirieters. 
clocks,  and  jXMididums;  containinti,  besides,  numerous 
experiuuMits  at  the  several  stiitions  touched  iit  by  Com- 
luander  (.'laveriuij;.  iisidi-eiidy  noticed,  auKumtiuij  to  eiiiht 
in  inimber  on  the  two  sides  of  tlu;  Athmtic,  at  each  ot' 
which  the  (diief  authorities  manifestiid  the  utmost  reiid- 
iness  to  nll'ord  every  assistanc(\  both  in  our  own  colonies 
and    It  places  beloniiinjj;  to  foi'ei<iii  |)o\veis. 

Any  iittempt  her(^  to  explain  them  would  t^ive  but  lit- 
tle notion  of  the  labors  successfully  iicconiplished  by 
( 'aj'tain  Sal)ine  ;  the  tables  detailiuij;  the  several  kinds  of 
obsei'Viitions  must  be  sf(  a  in  oi'der  duly  to  appi'eciiite 
their  impcu'tnnce.  to  siiy  uothitii:  of  the  calculations  nec- 
essary to  ari'ive  at  the  deductions  and  conclusions  w  Inch 
have  resulted  iVom  them.  '^Phe  observations  nwiy  bo 
6t;ited  to  cuinurise  a  series  of  six  in  lumiber  at  each  stu- 


i 


.  ilil 


CLAVERING   A\D   SABINE. 


101 


e  henviost 
I'Mliiudiniiii 

southward, 

ic  COilSt  ol 
h'tolu'V  the, 
oil"  lllldillH- 

aiiil  on  lilt'. 

rcci'ivcd,'' 

iiiul  hospi- 

liis  cxpcri- 

lionl  on  the 

nvs  till  tlu! 

iiibor,  AVIUMI 

the  I'.Uh  of 


(  (if  Capfolit, 

U  the  follow- 
,•  itistimci*  of 
voViim's  iiinl 
H!  Arctic  rc- 
ry  not  ciisily 
li\t>  hnndfiMl 
lulcr  viirions 
irononicVcrs, 
;,  imnu'vous 
iit  !)>■  C'oni- 
itinsi  to  ciiilit 
•,  iit  each  of 
utmost  r(>ii(l- 
own  colonics 

iiivc  bnt  lit- 
liuplislu'd  !)>' 
Jvcrul  kinds  of 
|to  uppvcc'iate 

•ulations  ncc- 
lUisions  wliicli 
lions  may  I't) 

Ir  at  each  sta- 


tion: So.  1.  Times  nf  transit  of  stars,  to  nsrortain  the 
)'atc  of  the  cl.tck  ;  No.  'J.  Adjiisimcnt  of  tclcx'oix'  to  tlm 
same  vertical  plane;  No.  '.].  J)aily  ratt^  of  chronometers 
tioiii  precedini;  transits  ;  No.  4.  ( "omparison  of  cliroiiom- 
t'lei'and  clock  at  exact  intervals;  Nos.o  and  (i  compiise  an 
acninnt  ol  the  coincidences  in  the  donMe  series  of  each 
priidulnm.    Kacli  table,  of  course,  occupied  sev(>ral  days. 

Tlir^  Pheasant  left  Sierra  1  .eone  early  in  April,  and 
nirived  at  New  Vork  o!i  the  Kith  of  Decemlx'i';  com- 
niniced  ohserviitions  on  tiie  "J'Jd,  and  coiichid<'(l  on  tho 
•M  of  Jan.,  \t^-2'A,  in  tin's  last  two  of  which  Sal)in('  had  ii 
co-()|)efator.  'I^he  ohsei'vations  were  carried  on  at  Co- 
liiiiiliia  ( 'olleije  ;  and  Captain  Sabine  says.  "•  1  nmst  ever 
ilccm  myself  to  have  been  most  hiiihiy  foilmiate  in  tlu^ 
a<-ii){'iation  whicli  it  procui'e(l  m«»  of  the  I'rolessoi-  of 
Natnial  and  KxperiuuMital  Philosophy  and  of  (,'hemisti-y, 
.\lr.  .lames  lienwick,  whose  interest  in  tin;  exi)eriin<'nts 
\v!is  so  stronuly  excited  as  to  induce^  him  o  t^ivc!  me  his 
iHni'iiiittinfi  co-ope)*ation,  a  circumstance!  peculiaily  (h^- 
siniMe  and  satisfactory  on  an  occasion  in  which  the  re- 
sults may  liere^after  come  in  question,  in  the;  compai'ison 
(it  tlie  standai'd  measurements  of  the  two  countries." 

Oil  the  otli  of  Febi'uary,  IH-J.*},  the  Pheasant  ari'ived 
!it  j'ortsmouth,  and  Captain  Sabine  liad  tlie  saiisfactiou 
nt' tiiidiiii;  that  a  letter  whicii  he  had  written  to  Sir  Hum- 
phrey J)avy  from  Maranham,  proposinji;  tiie  extension  of 
thf  e\p(M"iments  to  the  liiyh  latitudes,  had  met  the  ap- 
|)r()l)ation  of  the  Commissioners  of  Ijoiiiiituch; ;  that  J  jord 
Melville's  consent  had  been  obtained  for  the  employment 
nf  one  of  his  majesty's  ships  in  its  prosecution  ;  and 
that  the  (xripei"  sloo|)  of  war,  which  had  been  en<raiied 
ill  the  expedition  of  IHIO-'JO,  would  ioilhwith  be  coui- 
niissioned  by  Commanch'r  Claverinji.  '^I'lu^  interval,  how- 
ever, (tf  the  (iri])v  r's  eepiipment  was  occui)ied  by  Cap- 
tain SabiiK!  in  repeatinij  the  trial  of  the  pendulums  in 
Porlland  Place,  to  ascertain  that  they  had  midei'yone  no 
alteration  in  the  course  and  by  the  events  of  the  preced- 
ini:  voyage?. 

Tlie  process  of  these  exjXM'iments,  the  preparation 
of  an  apparatus  for  the  clo('k  and  pendulum,  and  pi'ovid- 
'i\]'Z  cover  and  protection  for  the  instruments,  which  ex- 
l)erie)ico  in  the  Northern  expedition,  and  particularly  at 

12 


\M    I 


iji; 


'i; 


>■■  t 


i 

"J  > 

.ili 

f 

I" 


'  u 


i 


V 

i 

■   I 
( 

I         I 

i  J 


102 


ARCTIC   VOYAGES. 


?«r(Mvil](^  Tsliuid,  hiul  tiniiil:t  C'irj)tuin  Siil'ino  to  ho  noros- 
anvy,  Wfic  Hiiiiiiltjincoiisly  coiiiplcti'd  \\\[\\  \\\i\  ('(mip- 
iiMMit  of  tli(!  (iripcr.  Tlifil  vi'sscl  left  tlui  Nor(!  on  tlio 
11  til  ot"  Mfiy,  1111(1  aiTiv(Ml  jit  lliuiiincrfcst,  tlio  placo  dcs- 
iflMiitcil  l)y  him  jih  liis  first  station,  on  tiio  4tli  of  .lune. 
A  spot  was  sclcctcMl  for  tlu;  oliscrvalioiis  at  Fiif^Uiiu'ss, 
wlioro  Mr.  Crowe,  u  ^enth-nian  at  tho  head  of  a  lari^o 
coniinercial  establislinioiit,  resides,  and  who  ju;avo  every 
j)ossil)lo  assisluiico  and  attention  to  tlie  jiaily.  Hero 
Captain  Sabine  rejieated  th(5  same  routine  of  observa- 
tions— \\w  transits  of  the  sun  and  stars — tlie  determiiia- 
lion  of  the  rate  of  clironometers  by  zenith  (hstauces — 
tlie  coincidences  observed  with  two  pt'iidukmis.  These 
were  all  completed  by  the  23d  of  June  :  the  iiistniments 
embarked,  and  the  (J riper  arrived  at  I'air  Haven,  on 
the  coast  of  Spitzberfjen,  on  tlu^  1st  of  July. 

The  (i riper  anchored  at  one  of  the;  Norw'eys,  wliicli 
forms,  with  the  coast  of  SpitzberyiMi,  the  harbor  of 
Fair  ITaven.  Here  the  experiments  proceeded  without 
interruption,  beiiiij;  tho  same  series  as  that  practiced  at 
Hammcrfest,  and  were  concluded  on  the  19th  of  July. 
From  hence  Captain  Sabine,  beinjf  desirous  of  preserv- 
ing unbroken  the  continuity  of  the  account  of  the  pendu- 
lum experiments,  proposed  that  no  tinu;  should  be  lost 
in  proceeding  to  a  ])roper  station  on  the  east  coast  of 
Greenland,  which  the  (jriper  successfully  accomjjlishcd 
in  a  higher  latitude  than  is  recorded  to  have  been  pre- 
viously traversed,  namely,  between  tlu;  74th  and  7")th 
degrees,  in  the  second  week  of  August.  Being  stopped, 
however,  soon  after  he  had  passed  the  75th  parallel,  and 
tho  season  fidvancing,  he  returned  along  the  coast  to  a 
harbor  of  safe  anchorage  in  latitude  74°  30',  Avhich  ho 
had  noticed  in  passing  to  tho  northward.  Hero  tho 
(J riper  was  anchored,  and  became  the  station  for  con- 
ducting the  pendulum  experiments. 

This  harbor  is  formed  by  the  channel  which  separates 
the  main  land  from  an  island,  on  which  the  experiments 
vere  made,  and  which  is  secured  from  tlie  access  of 
heavy  ice  from  the  ocean  by  a  smaller  island  in  the  mid- 
channel  of  the  entrance.  The  group,  of  which  these 
islands  form  a  part,  consists  of  two  nearly  of  the  same 
size,  and  two  others  much  smaller,  being  rather  rocks 


1 


CLAVEUING    AND    SAIJINK. 


103 


M  11 


)  1)(3   IKiCOS- 

tlio  «'(|uii)- 
Joro  oil  tlio 
^  place  (1«'S- 
th  of  June. 

Fuffloiiess, 
I  of  a  larj;© 

iTfivc  every 
Lity.     Ueio 

of  oljservu- 
1  (letenniiiii- 

(listances — 
lus.     These 

instnmients 
•  Haven,  on 


►vey^ 


,  which 
e  harbor  of 
3(leil  without 

practiced  at 
9th  of  July. 
s  of  preserv- 
>f  llie  penchi- 
liould  be  lost 
;ast  coast  of 
acc()ni])lished 
ve  been  pre- 
4th  and  7;')th 
eing  stopped, 
1  parallel,  and 

le  coast  to  a 
50',  which  he 
Here  the 
itiou  for  con- 

lich  separates 
}  experiments 
the  access  ot 
id  in  tlie  iiiid- 
which  these 
of  the  same 
r  rather  rocUg 


tliaii  islands  :  they  exttMid  from  llu;  latitud*?  of  7  1^  OO'  to 
that  nf  7  4  •!•,*',  and  were  distiiiiiuished  hy  the  ollictM-s  and 
.sfiUiK'H  of  t!u!  (tri|)er  by  the  appellation  of  the  Pendulum 
UIiukIs.  If  had  been  the  intention  of  ('a|)taiii  Subine  to 
iiiake  l\eikiavik,  in  Iceland,  the  concludiiii!;  station  of  the 
pciidiilum  »^x|)eriments  in  tlie  iiiu;h  bititudi's;  but  when 
the  17tli  of  September  liad  arrived,  before  they  found 
tJH'Mist'lves  tiiially  disen<iaii<'(l  fj-oin  the  (ireenlaiid  ice — 
till'  season  of  navigation  drawing  to  a  close* — the  autum- 
nal gales  alreiidy  commenced,  and  tin;  nights  above  six- 
teen hours  long — it  was  deemed  not  pruch'iit  to  risk  the 
iippi'oach  to  the  coast  of  Iceland.  It  was,  therefore, 
tlioiight  prefi'rable  to  recross  the  Northern  Ocean,  and 
to  seek  a  pendulum  station  on  the  coast  of  \(jrway, 
iirurly  in  the  same  latitude  as  Ktiikiavik  ;  and  Jhcmtheim 
apprariiig  to  be  the  most  eligible?  for  the  [jurpose,  tiio 
(iiiper  arrived  tliere  on  the  Hth  of  Octoljer. 

Captain  Sabine  says,  "It  had  been  the  good  fortune 
(ifCiiptain  Clavering  and  mys^'lf  to  have  experienced  at 
each  of  the  inhabited  stations  which  we  had  visited  the 
most  marked  hospitality  and  kindness,  but  at  none  were 
our  ohligations  in  these  respctcts  greater  than  at  Dron- 
tlieiin."  vVmong  others,  Im  mentions  th<^  govei'uor 
(Count  Trampe),  Mv.  Schnitler,  the  Uritish  consul,  and 
.Mr.  Knutson  and  his  amiable  family,  from  whom  every 
Kiiglishman  tliat  visits  this  part  of  Norway  is  sure  to 
meet  with  a  kind  reception.  Kvery  assistance  was  iif- 
I'unled  toward  the  accomplishment  of  this  hist  series  of 
t'xpei'iments,  and  they  were  enabled  to  weigh  aindior  at 
Droiitheim  on  the  l.'Uh  of  November;  but,  owing  to  vi- 
olent gules  of  wind  aiid  very  bad  weather,  the  (i riper  (hd 
not  arrive  at  Deptford  till  tiie  l!)th  of  December,  18"3.'3. 
Captain  Sabine  says,  the  boisterous  weather  they  had 
was  accom|)anied  by  very  vivid  lightning,  which  is  par- 
ticularly unusual  in  liigh  latitu(h's  in  winttn-,  and  by  the 
fre(|iient  appearance  and  continuance,  for  several  minutes 
at  a  time,  of  balls  of  lire  at  tin^  extremitii^s  of  the  yard 
arms  and  mast  In'ads;  of  these  not  less  than  eight  w(n-o 
counted  at  one  time. 

All  the  experiments  were  carefully  gone  over  in  Lon- 
don, and  examined  by  tluj  Council  of  the  Royal  Society 
and  Board  of  Longitude,  with  other  individuals  most 


1 


S« 


m 


,  V 


\Y 


I' 

I  I'V; 


P. 


I'll 


101 


ARCTIC  vovAf:::.s. 


rniiV(M'siiiit  ill  llit'si*  (ihsiivations,  willi  rlic  ralcnlatidns 
lor  (IcUTKnuiiiu  tlu"  \uriiiliniis  in  the  Iciiutli  of  llu'  sco 
oiids'  |)tMiiliiiiiiH,  iVoiii  wiinicc  the  tollowiiiy  p;tMirriil  ilr- 
(liK'tioii  is  (Iriiwii  lor  indiratiiii^  tlir  cUipticity  of  the 
farlli.  wliicli  is  all  that  can  !»»' uivuii  licVf,  the  various  ral- 
ciilatioiis  and  the  rxprrinii'iits  occiipyiii!:  a  hwii*'  volmnt". 
The  result  tlu^i  is  :  .".D-Ol.VJd  inches  is  the  leii;,Mli  (»f  the 
e(|uutorial  peiidulnin  ;  0"jn-J  1,'),  the  increase  of  irravilatioii 
hef\ve«'U  the  Kcjiiator  and  l*ole  ;  and  the  elliplicity  ., /v.-j^. 
That  deihiced  from  tlie  increase  of  «j;ravitatii>n  between 
London  and  Melville  Island  was  .{,'.,.,• 

Thus,  says  Captain  Saliine,  "the  attempt  to  deter- 
mine the  lij^ure  of  the  earth,  by  the  variations  of  ^ravit}- 
at  its  surface,  lias  heeii  carried  into  full  execution  on  an 
arc  oftlie  meriilian  of  the  greatest  accessible  extent,  and 
tlii^  results  which  it  has  prodnccMl  arc*  seen  to  be  con- 
sistent with  each  other,  in  coml»iiiatioiis  too  vai'ied  to  ad- 
mit a  pi'obability  of  the  correspondence  Ixmiij;  accidental." 
'^riiey  arcs  in  fact,  the  combinations  ctf  C.'a|)taiu  Sabine's 
1.'5  stations;  of  the  I''rcMich  savaiis'  H  stations:  of  the 
JJritish  survey,  7  stations  :   makiiifi.  in  all.  'J;^  stations. 

This  rcssult,  however,  of  tlie  ellii)ticity  "  ditfers,'  says 
Sabine,  "  more  considerably  than  couid  have  been  ex- 
pected from  .,  .!  _--  wliich  liad  been  ])i-eviously  received 
on  the  authority  of  the  most  eminent  iieometrician  of 
the  ajie,  as  the  concurrcMit  indication  of  tlie  measure- 
ments of  terrestrial  deirrees.  of  peiuhilum  experiments, 
and  of  the  lunar  inetiualities  de})endent  on  the  oblateness 
of  the  earth." 

The  success  that  lias  attended  the  experiment  of  in- 
vestigatinii  the  tii;urc>  of  the  earth  by  means  of  thc»  pcMi- 
dulum,  encourages,  as  C"a[)tain  Sabine^  thinks,  the  Ijelief 
that  an  ecjually  satisfactory  conclusion,  and  one  highly 
interesting  in  thi>  comparison,  might  be  obtained  by  tin* 
measiu'ement  of  terrestrial  degrees  ;  that  is  to  say.  by 
an  actual  measurement  of  a  degree  of  the  meridian. 
This  has,  in  fact,  been  donc^  in  various  j)arts  of  the 
\vorld,  l)ut  centuries  ago,  when  the  instruments  were 
inferior,  and  the  mode  of  their  most  advantageous  em- 
l)l()yraent  less  understood  than  at  present.  In  India  an 
arc  has  recently  been  measured,  and  one  of  an  old  date 
at  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope  remeasured ;  but  Captain 


]\ 


calciiliitioiis 
of  tlu'  sco 

fJi'lU'lill   llt'- 

I'ity  (»t"  the 
viuioiis  rul- 
v'^i'  volmiif. 

•liiitll  of  tllP 

firiHvitutittn 

)1icity  v,|-;y. 

DM   l)t>t\V(M'U 

)t  lo  (Ictcr- 
is  of  ^I'liviry 
tiitioM  oil  ail 

t'Xtoiit,  iiiid 

to  !)('  coii- 
iii'umI  to  ad- 
accidi'iitiil." 
liii  Saliiiio's 
ons :  of  tlio 
■>  stations, 
lillors,'  says 
vo  Ikmmi  ox- 
sly  locL'ivi'd 

lotrician  of 
nu'iisuro- 

HiorinuMits, 
0  oblatoiH'ss 

iHMit  of  in- 
)f  \\w  ptMi- 

tho  liofiff 
Olio  hiijlily 
lU'd  l)y  tlio 
s  to  say.  l)y 

nioriiliati. 
irts  of  tilt' 
icnts  woro 
li^t'ous  eiii- 
lii  India  an 
au  old  dato 
jut  Captain 


CLAVERIXG    AND    SAIUNE. 


lOi 


;j 


Siihino  ])oints  out  S|)it/.l)('ri:tMi.  hniiiix  near  to  the  Polar 
cxtrt'inity  ot"  the  iiioiidiiiii.  *'  as  tlif  hiiid  of  most  (•(n;vi'ii- 
u'lit  accrss  in  j'ithcr  lH'niis|»l>«'ro."'      He  says  : 

'•  'I'lic  iiccrsH  to  :ill  iiiirls  of  the  iiitri-i<ir  is  ^'I'tMllv  ficilitatcd 
1)V  the  fxtfusivc  lidnf-;,  mid  juiih  of  tlir  m-ii,  liv  wliicli  tin? 
find  is  iiitcrst'cled  in  so  ri'iiKii'kalilc  a  iiiaiiiior;  tlicsc,  wlictli- 
rr  tVozi'ii  ovor,  as  in  tlu*  «'aily  part  of  iIr-  srasou.  or  opt'ii  to 
na\  iL'atinii,  ms  in  llio  later  iMoiitlis.  form  roiitrs  of  rommuiiica- 
tidii  suited  to  tlie  ^^ale  roiiveyaiu'c  ot  iiisti  iimeiits,  eiliier  in 
.slciiues  or  boats:  the  fiord,  in  particular,  which  separates  tlio 
western  and  casti-rn  divisions  of  Spil/.l)er;:eii,  would  he  of 
'.';•>  al  a\ail  :  it  extends  in  a  due  north  and  >oiiih  direction  flir 
;ihipvt>  1-JO  inih's,  with  a  hreatllh  vai yiiiL' from  10  to  :{()  miles, 
and  communicates  at  its  northern  extrendly,  l»v  a  short  pa^s- 
;!:,'(■  aciiis>  the  land,  with  tin-  head  of  another  iiord,  proceed- 
iiii,'  to  meet  it  from  tlie  northern  shores  of  the  i>Iaiid.  and  af- 
finliiii,'  similar  tiicilities  tiir  cai'ryini,'  on  eilher  a  li'iaiiu'ula- 
tinn.  Ill-  a  direct  measuri-ment  on  tin-  suiliice  of  the  ice  iit  tho 
le\rl  of  the  ocean." — 1'.  3(r-.\ 

lie  adds,  what  is  \ov\  tnio.  tliat  tlio  iiicasiiriMiiont  of 
II  lunlion  of  tho  moridian  is  one  of  the  many  oxperiiiient- 
al  iiKjuiries  bt-yond  tho  roach  of  individual  iiioans  to 
accomplish. 

This  officer,  iiidcfatiiiahlo  in  tlio  pursuit  of  practical 
science,  writes,  in  Fohniary.  Is^'Jli,  lo  Mr.  Davios  (lil- 
ht'i't  on  tho  suhjoct,  onforcinji  tho  plan  hy  additional 
proofs  of  its  practicability,  and  olforiiiij;  his  services  : 
'•Should  th(>  (.'ouncil  of  tho  Koyal  Society  tiiiiik  that  I 
could  he  advanta|L;eously  imiployed  in  conduct  iiiii  such  an 
i!i\estij^ation,  my  services,  us  you  vvtdl  know,  are  at 
tlieir  command." 

He  lias,  however,  been  reserved  for  a  more  laborious 
and  not  a  less  important  task.  The  iieoiiraphical  deter- 
mination of  the  direction  and  intensity  of  the  magnetic 
forces  at  dilferent  points  of  the  earth's  surface  has  been 
reiiarded  as  an  object  wortiiy  of  especial  reseai(di.  To 
cNamine,  in  (hlferent  parts  of  the  iilobe,  the  declination, 
inclination,  and  intensity  of  the  maiinetic  torce.  and 
their  pei'iodical  tuid  secular  variations,  and  mu*^iial  rida- 
tioiis  and  dependencies,  could  only  be  duly  \w  Ui^ated 
in  lixed  mai^netical  ohservatori<'s.  ( )n  the  (  oiitinent 
some  such  observatoi'ies  were  eslablished,  to  wliicdi.  in 
the  year  It^oCi,  tlie  uttentiun  of  JJhtish  philosophers  was 


iili 


K 


v.* 


hi 


'^fe 


f 


1 


lOG 


ARCTIC    VOYAGES. 


Bpf'cifically  (Irnwn  by  ii  lott(M'  from  tho  Baron  voii  Iltiiii- 
holdt  to  tlio  Duk«5  of  SusHi'X,  then  I'rc.suhMit  of  tlio 
Koyal  Society.  In  consccjucnrc!  tlicn'of,  ohscrvatorics 
for  this  special  purpose}  wero  established  at  (ireeiiwich, 
Diiltliti,  Canada,  llobart  Town,  St.  Helena,  Cape  of 
(Jood  IIop(\  and  other  jilaces.  Th(<  observations  niado 
at  Toi'onto  have  been  leceived,  examined,  and  jirinted, 
under  tho  supcM'intendence  of  Jjientenant-colonel  Sabino 
— a  work  of  extraordinary  car«^  and  labor.*  He  has 
uniitMtaken,  besidi^s,  to  examine  and  arran^je  tlio  I'est  as 
they  come  in,  wiiicli  it  is  expected  will  be  in  the  course 
of  tlm  present  year,  1H15.  The  volume  now  printed  is 
inti'oduc<'d  by  an  able  and  well-written  preface  by  Col- 
onel Sabine. 

*  See  note  in  Introduction,  p.  17. 


1 


CAPTAIN  rAURv'd  SECOND  VOYAGE.    107 


von  IIuiii- 
It'llt  of  tlio 
)s('rviif()ric3 
ireiMiwicli, 
a,  Cape  of 
itioiis  nimlo 
lul  ))i'iiito(|, 
DiH'l  Sal)iiio 
*  I  Jo  hius 
tlio  rest  as 
t\ui  ronrso 
V  printed  is 
ICO  by  Col- 


CIIAPTER  VT. 
CAPTAIN   PARRY'S   SECOND   VOYAGE. 

18-J 1-32-23. 


Joiirnrtl  of  a  ficrond  Voyage  for  the  Disron'rj/  of  a  Norfk- 
,rrsfJ>(jssa>r,'^fro,n  the  AtlniUic  to  the  Pacific,  la  hu<  Ma}. 
csfi/  n  ships  Fury  and  Ihrla. 

'\\\Y.  nvo  vpsscls  np|)()iiirn(l  for  this  voyago  wore  stnm.r 
nnd  wcil-l)iiilr  Ijomhs:  the  V\\y\,  of  .-r??  tons,  juifl  tlio 
JI.'clii.  ;57o  tons;  ooninuindcd,  olHciTud,  and  niannrd  as 
iiiidcr  : 


F'-UY. 

\y.  Kdwiini  1  .rry,  romninndcr. 
Cii'or-'c  I''i,-li('r,  (/hapluin  aiul  A.-^- 

troiioniiT. 
Joscjili  N'iiiH,      )  T  •      ^ 
AiKiivu-  i.,,i,|.  ^^T.ioutonant.^. 

.Iciiiii  K(hvai-(ls,  SurijiMiii. 
W.  Harviy  Hooix-r.  I'lirsfr. 
Jimirs  Skc(jch,  Asriist.  .Surircun. 
.Iiiliii  llt'iiilci-.soii,   J 
I'r.  li.  M.  Cnizicr,  >  Midshiijinrn. 
.1,1-.  Clarke  Jioss,    > 
Jdlin     llii.-liiian,     Assistant 
vryor  ajiil  Miiisliijiiiiali. 
Jaiiifs  IJulsL',  Cl(.rk. 

hJ  (  )llicfTS, 
5  Warrant  Otlicrrs. 
]1  i'rtty  Ollii-.'rs. 
x!4  Alilr  Seamen. 

_t<  .Marines  (including  1  Sergeant). 
tJO  Tutal  on  board. 


Hkcla. 

Geo.  Francis  I, yon,  Comninndor. 

Jlen.  I'erkyns  Uoppner,  \,  .      , 

Cliaries  I'almer,  J  Licuts. 

Alexander  Fisher,  Surijeon. 

•lolin  .lennain,  I'nrser. 

Allan  M'l.aren,  Assist.  .Sun^i.'OU. 

Joseph  ."^lierer,  1 

(.'harles  Jtichard,'),      [  Midship- 

W.  Nelson  (H-Uliths,  f     nien 

Fldward  liird,  J 

I William  Mou:,',  Clerk. 

^"■',11  (Jflicers. 

Josej)h  Macklin,  Cunner. 

.losej.h  Lilly,  Ji'oatswain. 

(Miarles  I'nrl'nr,  Car])enter. 

(Jeorire  Fife,  (Jnvnland  .^[aster. 
_  Al(>xan(ler  Flder,  do.       Muto. 
.")  Warrant  Ollicers. 
11  I'etty  Ollicer-'. 
24  Atile  St.'ameu 
i  7  Marines. 

iiJc!  Total  ou  hoiird, 

George  Francis  Lyo.v  was  a  smart,  clever  lieuten- 
imt,  at  first  ajipointed  as  actinji  in  the  Berwick  hy  Sir 
K.lward  1  ellew;  ho  was  wounded  in  an  attack  niado  on 
that  ship  s  boats,  and  liad  his  coninii.ssion  coniinned  to 
Jior  HI  1814.  He  was  then  appointed  to  the  Albion, 
und  was  ni  the  battle  of  Alijiers  in  181(5.  liein-  „f  an 
adventurous  turn,  while  he  was  servinj;  in  the  sfniadron 
under  fen-  Charles  Penrose,  he  asked  and  obtained  per- 


K'\ 


wi 


i>#4  If 


f 


lOH 


AUC'I'IC    VOYACKr?. 


inissiuii  iViiiii  Sir  (liiiilrs  In  join  Mr.  Kitcliic,  ti  i;i'iillr 
iiiaii  ;i|)|)ii|iil<'il  nil  ii  iiiisshmi  to  'I'l'lpoli.  .Moiir/nllU,  ami 
oilier  parts  ^)\'  Norlli  Mrira,  \\li«»  was  must  (U'siroiis  dl' 
liaviii;:  a  nasal  nlliriM*  to  ac('niii|iaiiy  him.  Kitrliit-  ilioij 
short  I  \  alter,  ami  I  i\  on  siueeeileil  hnii  ;  who  rone  1 1  a  lei  I, 
rea>onalily  enough,  that  aiiioni;  the  Aral)  trihes  tiie  ///  n- 
h  iKinf  nnillit  adsantaiieonsiy  take  upon  him  the  title  n|' 
captain  a  rank  which,  it  appears,  he  iKaninally  carrieil 
into  the  present  voyage  of  discovery.  <  hi  his  appoint- 
ment to  the  llecia  he  receiveii  the  rank  of  commamler. 
ami  on  the  ret  urn  ol  ilie  ships  in  1  -*•.'.'!  was  raised  to  that 
ot  captain. 

.Many  otthe  ollicers  \vlio  had  sersed  on  the  (irsi  voy- 
Hije  wer»'  employed  on  this:   i  loi>i'.\  i:u,  as  lieutenant  ol 
the  llecia;   K  i»\v  \ki>s,  as  sm'i;eon  ;   M  idshipiuan  I'm.m- 
i.ii,  as  lieutenant  of  the  llecia.      The  midshipmen  NiAS 
and   Kkiii   were    promoted   as   lieutenants  ol'  the   I'ury, 
and  Koss,  I'xishnan,  and  (irillith^  remained  to  serve  lis 
midshipmen.     Hooper,  the  |)urser,  and  lliilse,  the  clerk, 
each  conliniied.  as  did  Allison  and  ( 'rawl'ord,  the  (Jreen- 
liml   master   and   mate,  in   the   service,  and   ahoard  the 
I'liry.      She  had  also  tour  midshipmen  :   two  new  ones, 
■loiiN  I  li.Mii'.KSoN  and  v.  K.  .M.  ( 'iio/,ii:K,  hesides  Itoss 
and  l>  rsii  N  \N,  who  had  served  in  the  pri'ceiliiifi  voya^ie. 
('ommander  INirry  ohservini;  on  the  late  expedition  ii 
liii'Ut'  inlet,  not  less  than  ten  leagues  wide  at  its  mouth, 
tfpeiiiiii:  •'"'    «"i  'li«'   soiithei'ii   coast    ol'  ihurow's  Strait, 
a:id    extending    southernly,    with    an    iiuruiation    to    the 
westward,  ran   the   ships    into   it,  and   continued  to  the. 
southward  ahout  one  hundred  and  twenty  miles.     I'lie 
soundings  were   foimd  to  he  two  hundred  tatlioms  and 
upward.      The    closeness    (»!'   the    ice.   however,   to    tlie 
southwest  induced  him  to  i-eturn  to  th(>  northward  ;  luil 
liis    impres>ioii  was,  that   this    strait    miulit    lead   to   the 
coast    ol'   America,    iiud    that    the    east    and   west    lands 
whicli   I'liclose   it  were   jjrohahly  islands  ;   and   he   says, 
'•l)n  an  insp»'ction  ot"  tiie  charts,  I  think  it  will  also  a|)- 
pear    pi-oiiable    that    a   commuiiicatioii  will  one   day   lie 
i'ound  to   exist   between    this    inlet    and  lludson's  Uay, 
«'ither  thi'ou<:h  the  broad  and  unex|)lored  channel  called 
Sir  Thomas  Koe's  Welcome,  or  tln'oiii:h  Ilepulst^  Hay, 
whicli  has  not  yot  been  salisi'aclorily  examined.     It  is 


<  vl 


/iiiiU.  mill 

•>iltilis  ot' 

tcliic  (lifil 
(iiiclinli'il, 
i  tiir  //'  //  • 
W  lillr  nl' 
lly  ciinitMl 
>>  iippuilil- 
iiiiiiiiii(lfi', 
-it'd  to  tliiit 

•  first  V(iy- 
iitfiiatit  111' 

lilll    I'  \I,M- 

iiiit-n  NiAs 
till'  I'liiy, 
()  srr\»'  in 
,  tlw  clfiU. 
ihf  ( irmi- 
aliiiai'il  the 

IH'W   (»Ut'S, 

sides  Koss 
iiij^  voyiiiif. 
\|)c(litioii  11 

its    IMOIltll, 

w's  Strait , 
til  to  tlio 
.•(1   to   tlio 

.•s.    'riic 

I01IIS   aiitl 
\\   to    tilt' 

wai'd  ;  liiit 
ad    to   tilt' 

wi'st  lands 
I  lu'  says, 
ill  idso  ap- 
lo  day  III' 
son's  r»ay. 
iiiii'l  rallt'd 
lulso  Hay, 
it'd.      It  is 


rATTAIN'    TAUKY  ri   .SKCOM)    VOVAiil'. 


lOJ) 


iilxii  priil)nl)1i<  tliat  n  cliMiiiirl  will  lio  rnntiil  to  exist  ho- 
twirii  tlio  wt'stcrii  laud  and  the  norllirrn  vmisi  ot' 
Ainrrica." 

Ill  ilir  passii'jo  mIiovi)  (pioti'd  a  roiiiidatioii  appears  to 
|i;i\f  lieeii  laid  lor  a  voya::e.  il  not  two,  in  tintlier  seaiili 
(i|  !i  nurtliwesi  passage.  That  searcli  was  not  liUely  lo 
III*  tilitiiidoned  when  so  e\perieiii'ed  and  talented  a  man 
111  ( 'onnnander  I'ar'i'y  pointed  ont  what  appeared  to  lie 
a  i-liaiinel  liy  wliieh  a  passa^e  nni;hl  ho  jonnd  through 
ihe  wesirrii  land  to  the  northern  eoast  of  Ann-rira. 
At  '  iM'dinnly,  in  a  lew  inonths  alter  his  retnrn  iVoiii  ihn 
lii-^l  soya^e,  on  the  .'IHih  ol"  Meeeniher.  IHJO,  a  eoinniis- 
>iiiti  was  si;j^ned  appointing  him  eommander  of  the  I'nry, 
and  (III  the  llli  ol°  January  liieiilenant  Lyon  was  ap- 
piiinted  rouMuander  of  the  llerla. 

Mis  majesty  having,  on  the  representation  of  Lord 
Mi'lMJje,  ordeieil  another  attempt  to  lie  made  to  diM'owr 
a  passage  hy  sea  lielweeii  the  Allantie  and  Tacilic 
(  h'tMiis,  and  to  ascertain  the  ^eo^raphy  of  the  northern 
liiiiuidaries  of  the  Auu'rican  rontinent,  Parry's  in>tru(- 
tmiis  were  to  proceed  toward  or  into  lluilson's  Strait. 
I  Ic  was  tlien  to  |)enetrate  to  the  westw  urd  throui:h  thill; 
sliait  mitil  he  should  reach,  either  in  Kepiilse  ISay  or 
on  SI  line  other  part  of  the  shore  of  1 1  ndson's  Hay,  to  tho 
iiiiilh  of  Wauer  Kiver,  some  portion  of  the  coiist  which 
lie  slioidd  feed  convinced  to  he  a  portion  of  the  continent. 
Ill'  America,  l-'ailiny  of  this,  he  was  then  to  keej)  alon^ 
the  line  of  this  coast  to  the  northward,  always  examiniiii; 
e\i'iy  liend  or  inlet  wdiicdi  should  appear  likely  to  afford 
a  piiicticalile  passau*'  'o  H"'  westward,  in  which  diieo 
tidii  il  was  the  principal  ohject  of  the  voyage  to  endeavor 
Id  find  a  way  from  the  Atlantic  to  the  I'acilic.'  Theso 
instructions  were  sufficiently  explicit,  and  accorded  with 
the  view  taken  hy  ("ommandtM'  Parry  in  his  iiarralivo 
of  the  former  voya<;i'. 

On  the  i-<th  df  Mi;v,  l.-i-,>l,  the  Fury  and  Ilecia,  ac- 
roinpiuiied  by  the  Niutilus  transport  (treij^hted  with 
stores  and  pi'ovisiiins  to  he  transhipped  on  arriving  at  the 
ice),  sailed  fiom  the  \ore,  aiid,  owiiiir  to  Imd  wcalher, 
it  was  not  till  the  11th  of  .June  that  they  tniuid  them- 
st'lvi's  iij  latitude  (iO  4s',  and  saw  the  tii'st  iceberg.  At 
*  AilJiii.'Mltv  lii-trucliuiis 

K 


»{1 


'1 

1 

n 

:(i 


/' 


■J 


I 


no 


ARCTIC    VOYAGES. 


tlic  (It'ptli  oT  t(i(l  rntlioiiis  lli<>  fcinptTUliirf^  of  flio  st^a 
>vii>(  10  ,  that  ol"  tilt'  smiiicc,  lO','  i  Jiiwl  lliiit  ol"  tli(^  Jiir. 
•II',  .  ( )ii  ilic  "Jij  ot' .Inly  lli(\v  were  cldst*  to  Kcsolniidii 
Islinni.  the  viilU'vs  of  whicli  were  lillrd  with  snow,  and, 
with  the  io^  that  linn<2;  over  it,  "  rmiU'i-ed  tln^  scctii* 
hflurc  ns  itidcscrihahly  dreary  and  disaurccahlc"  "  It 
r(M|uir«'s,"  says  ( 'omniandcr  I'iMry,  "a  lew  days  to  he 
])ass  d  amid  scenes  ol"  this  natnre  to  erase,  in  a  certain 
desiree,  the  impressions  left  hy  nior(<  aiiiniatj'd  land- 
scapes; and  not  till  then,  perhaps,  does  the  eye  lieconie 
I'aniiliari/ed,  and  the  mind  i-econciled,  to  pi-ospects  ol' 
utter  l)arrenness  and  desolation  such  as  these  rn<:^t  d 
shoi'es  present."  The  numerous  icehei-^s,  ol"  which 
( 'onimander  Ijyon  counted  tirty-loui'  in  si^dit  at  one 
time,  some  of  them  not  less  than  two  hundrecl  feel 
above  the  sea,  were  not  calculated  to  enliven  th(~  scene 

<  )n  th(>  *Jd  the  ships  wei'(>  closcdy  beset,  though  drilt- 
ini;  I'apidjy  aliout  by  tlm  tides  dui'iiii:;  tlu*  niiiht.  'I'he  ice 
consisted  ol"  loose  masses  of  bntken  lloes,  auiony;  which 
tlie  ships  continned  to  b(>  driven,  sometimes  in  one  di- 
rection and  tlien  in  an  opposite  oiie  ;  and  amouif  these 
masses  wei'e  counted  thirty  icelieri.'s  in  sii:ht  at  a  time, 
many  oltlnMU  whirleil  about  by  tl:<'  tides  with  ixreat  ra- 
|)idity.  Sev(U"il  ot"  these  immense  boiTu^s  were  from  tit- 
ty tt)  ninety  I'eet  above  the  suri"ac<>  ot"  th<-  sea,  each  piob- 
ai)ly  almost  as  many  fathoms  below  it.  The  connnand- 
«'r,  how(>ver,  statt>s  that  the  ber^s  which  thus  driv<5  about 
are  less  dansierous  to  appi-oach  than  those  aiironnd, 
aiiaiiist  which  a  ship  is  liablt>  to  bo  carried  witii  the 
whole  force  ol'  the  tide. 

On  tiio  Sth  they  wei'e  still  drilVmc;  about  aujotii;  the 
ice,  close  to  Kesoliition  Island,  without  knowii'ij,  durin;; 
the  nii^ht.  in  wluit  direction  they  wer(>  carried  ;  rint  when 
it  clear(Ml  up.  they  were  surprised  to  find  the  Ifecia  v\v.\- 
iMi  or  twelve  miles  to  \\ivi  westward,  thoui!;h  still  beset  in 
iiw  ice.  ( )n  the  IHh  tho  ice  closed  round  them,  and  they 
remaine(l  immoval)ly  beset  for  a  week,  though  carried 
by  It  daily  from  one  to  t'our  miles.  This  is  precisely 
whiit  was  alluded  to  at  the  conclusion  of  tht>  last  expe- 
dition ;  anil  it  ap|)ears  that  the  two  .ships  wtue  in  loss 
danger  (in  t"act.  there  was  non(>)  tlian  those  on  the  sho?'e 
of  Melville  Isliiuil.     They  were  still,  however,  in  the  eu- 


)!'  iIk^  son 
»»r  tlic  an-. 
Kcsoliitiiiii 
^iiuw,  mill. 

I>1.'."     "  It 
liiys  to  l>i' 
II  a  certain 
ati'il    lainl- 
vr  Ix'coiiu' 
osprcts    (it 
'St'   niiii^t  il 
,    of  Nvliicli 
<:lit    lit    one 
iiidrod   It't'l 
\\\v  scout' 
u)\\is}i  (Irit't- 
t.      'IMlo  \rr 
iioiiii  wliich 
s  in  Olio  (11- 
moiijj;  tliosc 
t  at  a  tiiiio. 
th  yroal  rn- 
To  from  lif- 
,  each  prol)- 
>  roniiuaiid- 
i  (lriv(^  al)(H)t 
;t>    aurtHimi, 
h1  Avith  the. 

miotiii  till' 

vii'ii,  (luviii;; 

out  when 

llocia  oUn- 
still  l)Osot  ill 

n,  and  tlicy 
wilh  can-i.-d 

is  |)rocis»'!y 

last  ox|>''- 

voit'  in  loss 

)n  tli(»  shon; 

r,  iM  tho  oii- 


CAPTAIN    TARRY  S    SECOND    VOVAGK. 


Ill 


fraiict;  only  of  llndson's  Sti'ait,  whitli,  ladnif  exposed  to 
till'  swell  oftlie  main  ocean,  iind  completely  open  to  tlit^ 
innncnce  of  llio  whole  Atlantic,  lias  always  heen  consid- 
end.  \>y  tlie  ships  of  the  lln'lson's  l>ay  Company,  a 
most  daiiiierous  and  difficult  position:  three  of  these 
were  seen  here  in  a  similar  predicament  with  tiie  discov- 
eiy  ships,  in  |)r()ceedin^  up  tho  strait,  several  Kstpii- 
inaiix  canoes,  or  laijuks,  made  tlieir  appearance,  oller- 
iiiir  seal  and  whalt;  oil,  spears,  skins  of  th»^  seal,  hear, 
fox,  \'c.,  for  salt*.  After  them  came  a  lar^e  onin'utk,  or 
woinaii's  hoat  ;  their  tilthy  customs,  lir):vever,  disgusted 
the  seamen    who  i!;ave  tluMii  no  sort  of  encouragement. 

"()ii  till*  whole,"  says  l*ai'ry,  "it  was  impossible  toi* 
us  not  to  receive  a  very  unfavorable  impression  of  tho 
yeiieial  behavior  and  nion  '  character  of  tlui  natives  ol" 
this  pait  of  llndson's  Strait,  who  seem  to  liuve  ac(|uired, 
by  an  annuaJ  intercourse  with  our  ships  for  nearly  a  hun- 
dred years,  many  of  the  vices  wlfudi  unhappily  attend  a 
lirst  intercourse  witli  the  civilized  world,  without  having 
imbibed  any  of  tlici  virtues  or  reliiuunents  wliich  a(l(»rii 
and  render  it  happy." 

Ilaviiiir  I'caclied  Soutliampton  Island,  near  its  nortliern 
extremity,  whert*  tlu*  continuity  oftlie  land  appeared  to 
be  dissolved,  l*arry  concluded  they  were  not  far  from 
the  eastern  entrance!  of  tlu^  Frozrn  S/raif,  which  had 
occasioned  so  much  unij;ry  discussion,  a  huiiihed  years 
iii;o,  as  to  wh(*tli(jr  any  sucli  strait  existed,  or  whether 
it  was  not  a  chimera  hiveiittMJ  by  ("aptain  Middleton. 
As  this  f^e()^ra])hical  point  had  iievtu*  been  (h'cith'd,  Par- 
ry liad  some  difticulty  in  determininj:  thc!  (|iiestioii  of 
tryiiij;  it  or  not,  as,  in  iiis  jiresent  position  with  I'e^ard  to 
.Kepulso  Bay,  which  he  was  ordered  to  examine,  the 
distance  was  not  more  by  jiassiuii;  that  strait  tlian  fifty 
leagues,  whereas,  if  compidled  to  pursue  a  routt*  round 
llie  south  end  of  Southani|)ton  Island,  it  would  make  the 
distance  from  om^  hundred  and  seventy  to  two  Imndreii 
leamu^s.  "  After  thtunost  anxious  consideration,  I  caiiio 
ti»  the  resolution  of  attempting  tln^  direct  passage  of  the 
J'rozen  Strait,  thouyh,  I  contess,  not  without  some  ap- 
])reh(!nsion  of  the  risk  I  was  incurriiiii;,  and  of  the  seri- 
ous loss  of  time  wliich — in  case  of  failure  eittier  from 
the  non-oxisteiice  of  the  strait,  or  from  the  iiisuperublo 


V  1 


I! 


; ,  '« 


I.) 


I; 


II 


! 


112 


ARCTIC    VOYAGKt*. 


()l)sfa('l('>4  wliicli  its  iijiiiu^  implies — would  llnis  be  iiu'vi- 
taldy  occiisidiu'd  to  the  (>\|»('(liti()ii." 

Ills  decision  wiis  rii;lil  ;  mid,  tlioiii!;li  uiucli  liiim])(M('(l 
')y  does,  and  homniocs,  and  packs  of  ice,  lie  was  still 
less  ^o  than  in  tln^  nci^lihorliood  of  Kcsohitioii  Islaml  ; 
and  lie  was  rewai'iled  l)V  the  discovery,  not  tar  from  its 
entrance,  of  what  lie  calls  "a  maiiniticent  hay,"  which 
the  otlicers  honored  with  tlu*  name  of  tht^  "  Duke  of 
^ Ork's  IJay,"  havinij;  heeu  tii'st  entei-ed  on  Jiis  hirthday. 
It  is  situated  on  the  iiortheasrerp  extremity  of  South- 
am|)lon  Island.  'J'he  hay,  however,  on  the  western  sidn 
was  shut  in  hy  a  low  shore,  whicdi  it  was  concluded  could 
he  no  other  than  "  the  low,  shini^ly  heacli,  liko  l)un<:;en- 
ess,"  ot"  .Middleton. 

He  found  it  necessary,  therefor(\  to  r<>ti'ace  his  stops, 
and  to  encounter  -nice  more  the  Frozen  Strait,  with  its 
rocks  and  islets,  its  irreuulnr  tides  and  honuiu)cs  of  lloat- 
iuii  ice  ;  and  what  was,  perhaps,  worse  than  all,  dark, 
foiliry  weal  her,  w  ith  compasses  that  had  almost  lost  their 
action,  lie  soon,  however,  i^ot  into  water  neaily  tre(^ 
iVom  ice.  which  allowed  him  to  proceed  west(M-|y,  hut 
entiridy  by  the  lead  for  live  or  six  houis,  when,  on  the 
weatluM-  cleariui;  up,  he  iound  himself  almost  entirely 
surrounded  by  laud,  "  havinji  uncons(;iously  entered  Ke- 
j)ulse  Hay.  in  wlfudi  not  a  jiit  c(>  of  ice  was  to  be  seen 
that  could  ohsti'uct  us  in  its  thorough  exanfniatiou." 

This  full  examination  was  certainly  liiven  to  it:  and 
whatever  doubts  uii<;ht  liitherto  have  been  entertained 
I'espectiiiii  its  coiuuumication  with  th(»  Polar  Sea,  ( 'om- 
niander  l*arry  and  his  party,  by  their  complete^  investi- 
jjation  of  the  whole  of  its  slu)res,  have  set  that  (piestion 
entirely  at  rest.  The  boats  entered  evei-y  little  creek 
and  corner,  "  and  thus  Avas  the  (piestion  settltMl  as  to  the 
continuity  of  knid  round  Hepulse  l>ay,  and  ti'.e  doubts 
aud  coujectures  wlfudi  had  so  loiii;  been  eiittu'taiued  re- 
spectiiiii  it  set  at  I'est  forever."  Parry  takes  the  oppor- 
tunity, luoi'eover,  of  doiiiix  ample  justice  to  that  injm-ed 
and  persecuted  navigator.  Captain  .Middleton.  "The 
whole  account. ■■  he  says,  "  that  he  has  ijiven  of  this  bay, 
with  the  ex(!eptioii  of  its  ijeoirraphical  position,  is  in  jien- 
eral  very  accurate,  particularly  in  the  appearance  of  tin* 
hiinU,  tlu'ir  relative  situation,  mid  in  the  nature  and  depth 


1 


CAPTAIN  PAKRV  S    SF.CONn    VOYAcn. 


lir? 


i  1)0  iiicvi- 

liimn)(M<Ml 
'  Wiis  still 
in  Islaml; 
ir  tVoiii  its 
y,"  wliicli 
'  Ddko  ttt' 
;  hirthdiiy. 
ot'  Soutli- 
'sterii  sido 
idt'd  could 
3  Duniieu- 

>  his  steps, 
it,  with  its 
cs  of"  lldiU- 
1  all,  diiiU, 
t  lost  their 
icai'ly  tVtM^ 
■storiy,  iMit 
It'll,  on  tlio 
[st  '.Mitir«'ly 
itci-t'd  Kc- 
1)0  seen 
ion." 
to  it :  anil 
ntcrtaiiu'd 
M'a.  (*oni- 
lo  iiivosti- 
it  (jnostion 
ttlo  crook 
as  to  tho 
i.o   doubts 
•taiiiod  ro- 
tho  opjior- 
lat  iiijurod 
n.     ''Tho 
)t"  this  hay, 
.  is  in  jzon- 
nco  ot"  tho 
and  doptli 


nf  tho  soundincs."  And  with  rospect  to  tho  l-'rozon 
StiMir.  tlit'i'c  can  1)0  liltlo  doulit,  ho  ^ays,  that  tho  accoiiut 
winch  .Middlotoii  has  iiivoii  of  its  appraranco.  as  soon 
troin  Capo  h'rii^id,  is  in  tho  main  a  taitht'ul  oiio  :  "•  \l)ov(^ 
all.  tho  accuracy  ot"  Captain  Aliddlotoii  is  iiianit'ost  upon 
tho  point  most  stroniioiisly  ariiuod  against  him  l>y  Sh-. 
])(tl)lis;  for  oui'  sui)so(pioiii  oxpoi-iouco  has  not  loft  the 
siiiiillost  (loul)t  ()t"l\opnlso  liay.  and  tho  northoni  part  of 
tJic  Wolcoiiio.  hoiiif;  fdlod  with  a  rapid  tide,  (lowiiii;  into 
it  from  tho  eastward,  tliroiiidi  tho  l-'ro/on  Sti-ait." 

Tho  appoaranco  of  tho  snores  of  |Jopuls(>  Bay  was 
far  from  uninviting.  '•  'J'ho  sm'roiindiiiu  land  rose  from 
six  or  sovon  hmidrod  to  a  thousand  foot,  and  there  was 
no  want  of  vouotatioii  usually  found  in  tiiis  part  ol"  the 
Arctic  roL'ions,  and  in  many  jiarts  it  was  oxtreiiMdy  lux- 
uriant." Koindoor  and  hares  \V(!ro  pUuitiful  ;  so  were 
(lucks,  dovokios,  and  siioAy  -  l)mitiim;s.  Several  Mack 
A\  hides  also  wore  ohsorved  in  the  huV.  In  one  s|)ot  the 
remains  ol"  no  less  than  sixty  Mscpiimaux  hahilatious  were 
found,  consisting;  of  stomas  laici  oiu^  over  the  other,  in 
very  rounlar  circles,  (  i^ht  or  nine  feet  in  diameter;  be- 
sides about  a  hundred  artificial  strn(;^turos,  liroplaci's, 
storo-hous(^s,  and  other  walk'd  enclosures  tour  or  tive 
feet  high,  used  for  keopiiij;  their  skin  canoes  from  being 
i:i)ii\vod  by  the  doi;s.  jii  various  parts  ot"  the  shore  wore 
found  numbers  of  circles  of  stones,  wliicli  wore  suppos(>d 
to  have  been  biiryinu-places,  a  human  skull  boiui:  t()und 
near  one  of  them.  Among  tlu!S(^  stones  the  Hudson 
mouse  was  very  abundant.  '*  I  do  not  know,"  says  I'ar- 
rv.  "whether  tho  seals'  flesh  romaiuiiiij;  on  som<»  of  liio 
bones  was  any  attraction  to  these  creatures,  but  it  is  cor- 
tiiin  that,  when  two  of  them  were  put  togetlier  into  a 
Cairo,  the  larjier  killed  tho  other,  and  ate  a  part  of  it." 

Commander  J*arry  having  now  satisfactorily  dotor- 
iniiied  the  iion-exist(Mioe  of  a  passage  to  the  westward 
tliroii^li  JU'pulse  Hay,  he  was  next,  in  compliance  with 
bis  iii;>li  ..inioiis,  "to  keep  along  tln^  line  of  this  coast  to 
the  iiorthwaril,  always  examining  every  bend  or  inlet 
which  might  appear  likely  toal"t"or(l  a  practicable  passage 
to  IJio  westward;"  and  he  congratulates  himstdf  on  hav- 
ing reacdied  this  point  so  early,  and  ♦■spiu;ially  ''at  hav- 
nv^  passed,  uliuost  without  impediiiiont,  the  strait  to 
8  Jv  -J 


III, 


;      I 


I 

! 


I'- 
ll 


114 


AKCTIC    \OYAGE.-?. 


wliicli,  on  noai-ly  the  smiio  day  sfvotity-niiiP  years  ho- 
fi)i'o,  so  rorbiddiiif^  a  name  had  been  applied." 

lie  had  not  yet,  liowever,  got  rid  of  that  forniidahic 
strait,  witli  its  obnoxious  name.  In  coasting  down  the 
nortiiern  shore  ot"  Repulse  JJay,  it  was  necessary  again 
to  cross  tlie  nortli«>rn  part  ot"  the  Frozen  Strait,  and  pass 
througli  llurd's  Channel,  which  was  nearly  blocked  up 
by  Bushnan  Island,  leaving  only  a  narrow  passage;  at 
each  exti'emity  to  get  to  the  eastward  ;  and,  when  pass- 
ed, otlier  islands  and  narrow  channels  occur,  among 
Avhirh  were  found  such  j-apid  tides,  hurling  large  masses 
of  ice  about,  as  to  carry  tlui  sliips  every  moment  into 
innninent  danger.  And  when  they  Inid  in  some  meas- 
ure got  through  this  labyrinth,  after  loiiir,  anxious,  ami 
toilsonu;  labor,  a  frcvsh  gale  from  the  northward,  on  tlic 
3(1  of  September,  di'ifted  the  large  Hoe  of  ice  to  whi'li 
the  ships  wcM'e  attached  to  a  greater  distance  than  '•  I 
ever  remcml)er,"  says  l*arry,  "  to  liave  hapjiened  before 
m  the  same  time  under  any  circumstances."  JJut  the 
most  mortifying  f)f  all  was  the  discoveiy  tliat,  .ifter  all 
their  toil,  they  had  been  driven  back  ])ast  l)af(ni  Island 
toward  the  two  )"enjarkal)le  hills  on  Southampton  Island, 
from  which  they  were  at  noon  not  more  than  seven  or 
eight  leagues  distant.  "  IMnas,"  says  Pariy,  "  after  a 
Viborious  investigation,  which  occpied  one  month,  we 
hii'i,  by  a  concurrence  oi  unavoidable  circumstances,  re- 
turned to  nearly  the  same  spot  ns  that  on  which  we  hail 
been  on  the  Gth  of  August.  This  untowani  event  may 
serve  to  show  the  value  of  ever  the  snrallest  geographi- 
cal information,  in  seas  where  not  an  hour  must  be 
thrown  away  or  ur profitably  employed." 

The  wliole  of  tli.s  voyage,  froM  the  first  entrance  of 
Hudson's  Strait  to  the  point  now  reached,  has  proved 
so  harassing,  so  unproductive,  and  so  dangerous  withal, 
as  to  have  required  from  him  who  liad  the  conducting 
of  it  a  more  than  ordinary  share  of  patience,  persever- 
ance, and  equanimity,  possessing  a  t(;mper  not  easily 
to  bo  ruflled  :  and  such  an  ofticer  was  Parry.  His 
great  object,  when  in  extrenn?  difficulty,  he  tells  us. 
was  to  cheer  up  the  s})irits  of  his  people,  and  to  k(>ep 
them  constantly  on  the  alert  and  moving  whenever  such 
diiriculty  occuired,  even  when  there  was  no  prosj)ect  of 


It 


V.  years  bo- 

I  forinidahlc 
ig  down  tilt' 
3ssary  i\<j;n'u\ 
air,  and  pass 
r  blocked  up 
'  pjissnijc!  at 
,  when  pass- 
?cur,   among 
larj^e  masses 
moment  intn 
some  mciis- 
anxions,  and 
kvard,  on  the 
ice  to  wIikIi 
nee  than  "  I 
jiened  before 
i."      JJut  tll(^ 
that,  alter  Jill 
Baffin  Island 
npton  island, 
han  seven  or 
•ly,  "  after  a 
c  month,  we 
nstances,  re- 
hich  we  had 
(i  event  may 
t  fjeo^raphi- 
3ur  must  l)e 

entrance  of 

has  proved 

erous  withal, 

e  condiicting 

:e,  pei'sever- 

r  not  easily 

Parry.     His 

lu!   tells  lis, 

and  to  keep 

lenever  such 

)  pi-os})ect  of 


CATTAIX    PARRY  3   SECOND    VOVAGn. 


115 


tlie  ships'  stirring;';  to  keep,  in  sliort,  both  their  bodies 
iiiid  minds  in  a  stiito  of  activity.  Thus  he  says  on  the 
j)i('sent  disheartening;  occasion,  "In  the  afternoon  an 
attempt  was  made  to  move,  for  the  mere  sake,  it  must 
l)c  confessed,  of  movin<f  and  keepinij  thci  peoi)le  on  the 
alert,  rather  than  with  the  slightest  prospect  of  gaining 
any  ground." 

Indei'd,  throughout  the  whole  of  his  Arctic  voyages 
of  discovery,  the  resources  of  his  own  mind  never  failed 
to  supply  the  means  of  conveying  a  ha])py  state  of  con- 
tentment into  the  nnnds  of  those  who  weie  serving 
under  liim,  and  of  gaitung  their  confidence.  The  pres- 
ent was  a  trying  moment.  The  5th  of  .September  had 
arrived,  the  luivigable  season  had  neai'ly  expired,  and 
they  were  only  at  the  commencement  of  their  discov- 
eries. J>y  the  loth  of  .Sej)tember,  how«ner.  they  had 
exainined  numerous  inlets  and  openings  on  the  Ameri- 
can coast,  and  among  others,  a  very  extensiv(»  and  deep 
one,  to  which  Parry  gave  the  name  of  Lyon's  Tnlet- 
A'arious  creeks  and  coves  were  also  examined  by  the 
boats ;  but  tlie  continuity  of  the  land  was  <>very  where 
determined,  and  no  passage  found  to  tlii'  westward. 
Tliey  fell  in  with  a  small  tribe  of  Esquimaux,  whosn 
habitations  were  visited,  and  the  inmates  found  to  be 
"  a  good-humored  and  decent  sort  of  j)eople."  One 
lad,  in  particular,  is  described  as  "  uncommonly  quick 
and  clever  in  comprehending  our  meaning,  and  seemed 
to  possess  a  degree^  of  good-humor  and  docility  whi(  h, 
on  our  short  acquaintance,  made  him  a  great  favoiito 


among  us. 


In  some  of  the  bays  and  inlets  the  ice  reiuained  fixed 
and  unbroken,  and,  as  far  as  could  be  seen,  grounded 
along  the  coast.  Still  they  proceeded,  passing  by  no 
creek  or  inlet  without  landing  or  boating  to  examine  it 
thoroughly.  On  the  1st  of  October  some  rain  fell, 
which,  immediately  freezing,  made  the  decks  and  ropes 
as  smooth  and  slippery  as  glass.  For  several  da^'s  be- 
fore, the  thermometer  had  permanently  fallen  below  the 
freezing  point ;  and  the  rapid  formation  of  young  ice 
near  the  shores  gave  pretty  evident  notice  of  the  ap- 
jjroach  of  winter.  On  the  Gth  of  October,  Pariy  says, 
"  There  beuig  now  only  an  hour's  daylight  remaining, 


\"h 


\\ 


n 


! 


)  ^' 


V  i 


m  It 


'I, 


I   i 


i, 

!    'I' 


itl(  I: 


1 


:!'. 


.J*  t 


IIG 


AUCTIC   voya(;es 


\]\o  younji  ico  fiisl  'mrvpiisiii};,  and  n  strong  tide  riimiiii<;; 
ill  tlic  olfiliii.  I  ^viis  (»h|in;('(l  to  rcliiKiiiisli  the  idcii  of 
iiioviiii;  till  tilt'  iiioniiiii:;."'  ( )ii  the  J^tli  the  tlirniioiiic- 
tt'f  \vas  down  to  /.cro,  iiiid  th(^  scii  was  covcnMl  with 
yoiiiiii  ico,  of  which  wo  hnMt  th(!  I'olhjwiiii;  description  : 

"  'riic  rfiniiiilioii  (it'voiiui:  ice  npnii  tlir  siirliicc  ol"  the  water 
is  the  ciiTu:  "Stance  wliicli  iiiest  (lecidediy  l)ei:iiis  to  ])iit  a  stop 
to  the  iiavii.'atioii  of  these  seas,  and  warns  the  seaman  that  his 
season  of  active  o])erations  is  nearly  at  an  end.  It  is  indeed 
scarcely  possible  to  cdiKM'ive  the  degree  of  liinderance  occa- 
sioned by  this  iiiipediiiieiit,  trilhug  as  it  always  ap|)ears  be- 
fore it  is  (Miconntered.  When  the  sheet  has  ac(|uired  a  thick- 
ness of  abont  half  an  inch,  and  is  of  coiisideralde  extent,  a 
ship  is  liable  to  i)e  stopjji'd  bv  it  nnless  fiivored  i)y  a  stron;^ 
and  fr»>e  wind  ;  and  I'veii  when  still  retainiiii:  her  way  throni.'h 
the  water,  at  the  rat«^  of  a  mile  an  hour,  lier  conrse  is  not 
always  under  the  control  of  the  helmsman.  tlioiiLdi  assisted 
l)y  the  nicest  attention  to  the  action  of  the  sails,  but  depends 
npoii  some  accidental  iiicri'ase  or  decrease  in  the  thickness  of 
the  sheet  of  ice,  with  which  oiio  how  or  the  other  comes  in 
contact.  Nor  is  it  |)ossible  in  this  situation  titr  llie  boats  to 
ri'nder  their  usual  assistance,  by  runniiii;  out  lines  or  other- 
wise ;  for,  havinir  once  entered  the  yoniiL'  ice,  they  can  only 
he  ])roj)elled  slowly  through  it  by  digging  the  oars  and  boat- 
hooks  hito  it,  at  the  same  time  breaking  it  across  the  bows, 
and  bv  rolling  the  boat  from  side  to  side.  Alter  continuing 
this  laborious  work  for  some  time  with  little  good  etVect.  and 
considerable  damage  to  the  planks  and  oars,  a  boat  is  often 
obliged  to  return  the  same  way  that  she  (Nime,  backing  out: 
in  the  canal  thus  formed  to  no  |)urpose.  A  ship  in  this  hel[t- 
less  state,  her  sails  hi  vaiu  ex])auded  to  a  favorable  breeze, 
her  ordinary  resources  failing,  and  suddenly  arrested  in  her 
course  u[)on  the  I'lement  through  which  slie  has  been  accus- 
tomed to  move  without  restraint,  has  often  remindt'd  me  of 
(lulliver  tied  down  bv  the  f(>ebl(>  hands  of  Lilliputians;  nor 
are  the  strug^rles  she  makes  to  etfect  a  release,  and  the  apj)a- 
rtMit  insignihcance  of  the  means  by  which  her  etforts  are  op- 
posed, tliv^  least  just  or  the  least  vexatious  part  of  the  re.s(uii- 
blance."— r.  lit!,  117. 

The  expediency  of  fixin2;  upon  some  eligible  place  for 
the  security  of  the  shij)s  for  the  winter  could  no  Ioniser 
be  douhtetl  nor  delayed.  A  small  island  lyiny  o(f  the 
northern  point  of  tiie  enti-iuice  into  Lj^on's  Inlet  was 
n^'eed  upon  by  the  two  commanders,  beino;  found  to 
all'ord  good  anchoi'age  on  its  southern   coast.     ''  Wo 


'.  ^' 


\  I'liiiiuiiij; 
idt'Si    nl' 
cniioiiit'- 
Tcd  with 
icr'iptioii  : 
■the  \v;i1<'r 
put  a  stop 
:iii  that.  Ills 
;  is  incUM'd 
•aiK'L'  (ici-a- 
ppeai"s  hc- 
•cd  a  thick- 
•  I'xtcnt,  a 
ly  a  sti-oii,^^ 
ay  tliniULdi 
iiisr  is  111  it 
i:h  assisted 
lit  dcpriids 
hicUiii'ss  of 
•V  coiiu's  in 
lie  hoatri  to 
.'S  or  otlii'f- 
•y  ran  only 
•s  and  hoat- 
s  the  hows, 
continuing 
ctVcrt,  and 
oat  is  often 
)ackinL.'  out 
n  this  lii'lp- 
)k'  hrct •/.(', 
sti'd  in  her 
)een  accus- 
i(h>d  me  ot 
lUtians;  nor 
I  the  a]ipa- 
)rts  are  op- 
the  reseni- 

plfico  for 
no  louijer 

\\ir    Olf   rho 

inh't  was 
found  to 
It.     '^  Wo 


CAPTAIN    TARRY  d    SECOND    VOYAGE. 


117 


now."  s!>ys  Pany,  "for  the  first  time  inilkx]  on  hoard 
tiie  >hips.,  and  before  nii^ht  we  had  thtMu  niovtMl  into 
their  p''ir  -s  Uy  sawin;,'  a  canal  for  tW((  or  thi'ec  hundred 
yards  tin'ouiih  \\\v  ice."      Jle  adds: 

"  ill  reviewing'  the  events  of  this  our  fii'st  season  of  na\  ii.';i- 
tiidi,  unit  considering:  what  proirress   we   had   made    towan 
'  (■  attainment  ot'our  main  ohject,  it  was  iin|io»il»le,  iiowcver 

•.i:      .   .1... :.   I..    ...'. 1 1 . 


I 


nil'  aiiaimiK  111  <'i  oui  iiiimi  i>i(|ii  i,  u  >>■!>  jiii|>i  i^miih  ,  iiw\\i-\i-i- 
tiililiiu'  lli'tt  progress  miuiit  appear  upon  the  I'liart,  not  to  ex- 
1)1  rieiice  considerahle  siiti>laction.  Small  as  oiU'  actual  ad- 
\,iiiri'  h;id  heen  toward  Uehriim's  Strait,  the  extent  of  coast 
iiewlv  discovered  and  minutely  ex|>!ored  in  |>m'suit  of  our 
[ihjrcts,  in  the  course  of  the  last  eiirhl  weeks,  amounted  to 
iiiiiie  than  "-ItX)  leagues,  nearly  half  of  which  heloni^cd  to  tlio 
iniilinent  of  North  America.      This  sei\  ice,  not^vithstanilitu: 

...L<     .  11  >l  i^Im  It  t      <.  V  I  tf  k^l  I  I'.l      lil       till.       1M^lr.i      \\-llti>ll      II  I  t  IMJ  "I  t  >  t         ^-{....il         •klt.l 


I 

ini 

iMir  CI 
iiiikiM 


instant  exposure  to  the  risks  which  intricate,  shoal,  and 

)\vn  channels,  a  sea  loaded  with   ice,  and  a  rapid   tide 
I    ;..    .......,....;..,,     I.... I    ,,...-.;. L.I, ii.. 11..    i. ......    ..(V........i 


\  II     l^ilfliiui:!.^,     fl     .'^Itl      lllilllllt       \>llll      M<.     .111 

(iinciirrcd    in    pre.seiitiiiLr,    had    providentially    

witlmiit  injury  to  the  shi|)s,  or  sutfei  imr  to  the  olliccrs  and 
iiirii  ;  and  we  had  now  once  more  met  with  toleral)le  securitv 
till'  the  ensiiinj,'  wintei-,  when  ohli^'ed  to  relimpiisli  farther 
iiperations  for  the  season.  Above  all,  however,  1  derived  the 
iiiMst  sincere  satisfaction  tioni  a,  conviction  of  havitiLT  h't't  no 
l>;irt  of  the  coast  from  Repulse  P)ay  »>astward  in  a  stale  of 
t  as  lo   its  connection  with   the  conlineiit.       *  ■■  '     ■  ■   * 


loiihi  as  lo  lis  connection  wnii  iiie  coiniiienr.  And  as  the 
iiaiii-laiid,  now  in  siirhl  from  tin'  hills,  extended  no  iiirther  to 
III'  eastward  than  about  a  N..N.I;.  beariiiir,  we  ventured  to 
iiiiliiL'e  a  saiiiruine  liopi-  of  our  bein::  very  near  tli<>  north- 
eastern boundary  of  .Vmerica,  and  that  the  early  part  of  the 
next  sea.son  would  Wnd  us  em|)loyinir  our  bt.'st  etVorts  in  push- 
'■■■,'  alon;:  it.s  northern  shores." — 1'.  1 1!{. 


reiiiir  now  llxed  in  their  winter  quarters,  it  is  .scarccdy 

necessary  to  say  tliat  tlie  first  and  earliest  attention  of 

tiie  ])ro\i(h.Mit  commander  was  ilireel(Ml  to  tlie  security 
..,'  .1...    .1.:...    *i , ,..,  r I... .: V 


I —  "^ ^ ; •     .\ 

111  tlie  slfips,  the  arranijjenuMits  for  tlu^  preservation  of 

rleanliness,  lioalth,  and  cmufort  duriiiii  a  lon;j;  prospect- 
ive winter,  as  widi  as  t"oi'  tlie  economical  e.xpenditure  of 
|)ii)visioiis,  fiud,  and  all  otiu^r  stores.  At  first,  anil  for 
some  time,  apprehension  was  entertain<Ml  n>spectin^  tlio 
security  of  the  .ships  in  tm  open  I'uadstead  facini;  tho 
smith,  !is  th(^  ji^romided  masses  on  tlu;  sliores  of  the  hay 
lii'uan  to  sliow  syin|)toiiis  of  instability,  oiu?  or  two  hav- 
iiiu  fallen  over,  and  others  turned  round,  so  that,  instead 
iif  heiiiti  a  protection,  these  masses  iiii^ht  lj(!  looked  iipua 
lather   as   dangerous    neighbors ;    other   circumstaucua 


\'\ 


1 1 


\ 


V. 


m 


'  '!i"'" 


I'l 


/i 


lis 


AKCTIO    VOYACF,!^. 


>vt'i«»  calculiiltMl  to  fxcilc  !i|)|)i  rlit'iisiotis  of  (l;mLjt'r,  l)iif. 
ii;i|t|)ily.  tlicy  (••<r:ijii'(l  tliciii  nil  ;  niid  tin*  slii|ts.  oiicn 
iVo/cii  ill  mill  ln'sfi  !i\  sdliil  !(•(>.  iTiiKiiiird  liiiii  ii'^  rcicUs. 
It  iiiiiy  Im'  (jiiilc  ciM'tiiiii  tliiit  iidtliiiiL:  \\!i^  dimttrd  liy 
I'iirry  that  cnuld  IimkI  to  the  licallh  iiiul  citmroi"!  ul'  Ills 
<'i«'\v.  iis  line  alt»Milioii  lo  I'lcaiiliiicss,  superior  wanulli, 
(Iryiiiii;  ol"  clollirs,  airiiiij,  tli(»  hoddiii^.  and  slccpiiiu:  in 
IniiniMocs,  l)\  whitli  \t>ntiIatioii  is  nial»Miallv  nioniolrd. 
lie  sa\ s  : 

'•  \\  lull'  cure  w:i-<  tlius  tiiUcii  to  adnpt  all  plivsical  nn>;ni^ 
widiiii  our  rcacli  liir  the  niaiiilciianco  nf  inaldi  and  coinloii 
anioii:^  llic  crews,  recourse  \\;is  also  liad  to  some  t>\  a  moral 
nature,  wliicli  experieni'c  lias  .sjidwii  lo  lie  nsclul  auxiliaries 
ill  till'  promotion  ot  these  desirable  uhjects.  It  would,  per- 
haps, indeed  lie  dilliciill  to  iniai:iiie  a  situation  in  wliicli  clieer- 
fuliiess  is  iuor<>  to  lie  desired,  or  less  likelv  to  lie  inaiiitailied. 
tliui)  anion,'  a  set  ol  persons  (^and  those  persons  seanii'ii  toiO 
hecliided  lor  an  uncertain  and  indefinite  period  t'roni  the  rest 
of  the  world;  lia\  in^  little  or  no  eiiiplovment  Imt  that  which 
is  in  a  inannei-  created  to  prevent  idleness,  and  suliject  to  a 
decree  of  tedious  inonotony  ill  accordin::  w  illi  their  usual 
liahits.  It  was  not,  liowevt>r,  simply  as  a  irinieral  principle. 
Jipjilicalile  in  a  ureatt-r  or  less  deL'reo  to  all  situations  and 
societies,  that  the  preservation  of  cheerfulness  and  i,'oiid  hu- 
mor was  in  our  cas(>  ]>articularlv  desirable,  hut  as  iiiinie- 
«liatelv  connected  with  the  preventieii  of  that  disease  to  w  liicli 
«Mir  irews  w  en^  must  liable,  and  w  hich  indeed,  in  all  hnniaii 
jirobabilitv,  we  had  aloin^  any  cause  to  dread.  The  astonish- 
im,'  eHcts  piddiu'i'd  bv  the  p.assions  of  the  mind,  ill  induciiiu' 
or  renio\  liii:  scorbutic  svmptoms,  are  too  well  known  to  need 
eontirmation  or  to  admit  of  doubt  ;  those  calculated  to  ex<ite 
liope  ;iu(!  to  impart  a  sensation  of  pl(\asi're  ti>  the  mind  haviii:,' 
lieeii  invariably  found  to  aid  in  a  surprising,'  manner  the  cure 
«)f  this  extraordinary  disease,  and  those  of  an  opposite  nature 
to  a^irravate  its  fatal  maliL'iiity.  As  a  source,  tliin-efore,  nt 
rational  amusemiMit  to  the  men,  1  proposed  to  ("oinmauder 
l.\-oii  and  the  otHcers  of  both  ships  once  more  to  set  on  Hiot  a 
.•-eriesi  of  theatrical  entertainments,  from  xvliicli  so  much  bene- 
fit in  this  way  had  on  a  fin-mer  occasion  betni  (l(>rived.  This 
proposal  was  immediately  and  unanimously  aci[uiesced  in. 
Lyon  obliLMiiL'ly  undertook  to  b.«  dur  mana:,'er,  and  some 
pre]>araliou  liavin^  been  math'  for  tliis  |)urpose  ])r<>\iou.s  to 
leaviiiii  V'.n^lind,  every  fhiiiii  was  soon  arrani:ed  liir  ]ierforiii-  i 
ini:  a  I'lay  on  board  the  Fuiy  once  a  fortnii:ht.  In  this,  as  in 
jjjure  imiiortuut  matters,  our  fLirmei   experience  gave  many 


'  r 


npT,  ImiI, 
lips,  (»ii('i> 
\  !is  rticKs. 
uiiillffl  liy 
loll  i>r  Ills 
r  wiinnlli, 
iltM'|)inu  ill 

pittlUOti'll. 


SICMI  nif:)iir4 
liul  cniiitorl 
(if  ;i  tiiiinil 
I  iiiixili.irir-* 
would,  piM- 
Aliiili  cliriM- 
iii;iiiit;iinctl. 
SCIIIlU'll   toiO 

Vom  llii'  ''t">t 
t  thai  wliith 
sul)i<'«M  It'  :i 
I   tlii'ir  usual 
r.il  |iriiici|>li'. 
itUMliniis  iiiul 
11(1  ^odil  Im- 
it    as   iinini'- 
Msc  to  wliifli 
II  all  lumiiui 
'lie  astonish- 
in  intlui-inu' 

KWIl    to   Ut-l'll 

led  to  ox<it<' 
niinil  haviii:,' 
nor  the  cnii' 
xisitc  natiiri' 
llKM-floir,  ot 
('oiMiuaiiiliT 
sot,  on  Itit't  a 
nuuh  l)(MH>- 
M-ivcd.      This 
•([uiosct'd   111. 
■  1-.   and   suini' 
jiroxious  to 
I'oi-  porii>iiii- 
lii  this,  as  In 
•'ave  niaiiv 


rATTAIN    TAURY  tA    SKCOXn    Vt)VA(;K. 


110 


n>iofiil  liints.  Our  llioa1(>r  was  now  l.iid  out  on  a  lafiror  amf 
iiKirc  coniinodions  scale  ;  its  do(i>r;itiiiiiH  iiMuli  ini|irovc(l  ; 
.111(1.  what  was  nioi'o  o>->riili.il  Itnlli  tn  actors  and  aiidirnco,  ii 
iiinrc  olliciont  plan  ad(i|ilcd  liir  w.irniini,'  it.  l>v  wliicli  u(» 
.>iii  cccdod  in  Ucr|iiiiu'  iIk"  Icmpoiatiiro  .several  dei.'rees  .'iIidvo 
;,/,/  III!  each  nif^ht  ol' jx-i  roiniance  thron^Jioiil  the  winter." — 
I'.  !•.'■:.  ]■-':!- 
And  ln'  iidd.s,  in  ii  iiohs 

••  I  can  not  omit,  to  .neiition  tliat.,  jiist  lieforo  we  left  llni;- 
1:111(1,  a  lai'LT'"  and  iiandsoiiie  /ifninfasmdi^onn,  or  inai^ic  laii- 
tcni,  li  id  Iteeii  presented  to  me,  tiw  the  nse  ot  the  e\|)editioii, 
li\  a  lad\,  who  persisted  in  Ueepiiij,'  her  name  a  secret  iVoiu 
tJiiiNC  whiiin  she  was  .!nis  servini,'.  This  ap|)araliis,  whicli 
x\;is  excellent  ot'  its  kind,  was  tVe(|iientlv  resorted  to  diirini^ 
TJii-  and  the  succeeding,'  winter;  and  1  am  iiappv  to  avail 
nivscirof  this  mode — the  imly  oii(>  in  mv  powci' — ol"  thankini^ 
our  lieiiet;ictress.  .and  assiirinir  her  that  iier  present  aHin-ded  a 
tiiiid  (iramnsemenl,  i'ully  answering'  tier  kind  intentions." 

No  iiiaii  ^v)ls  hcttcf  !ic(piaiiilt'd  with  tlii'  clinraclcr  mid 
Iccliiiiis  ol"  scamt'ii  lliaii  l*aiTv.  Ho  kiirw  lliut  mirlli, 
;inil  oilier  oxcitt'iiuMits  to  (•liocrridiicss,  if  too  often  ro- 
p(iited  with  little  or  IK)  vaii;iti(Mi,  ar(>  iipt  lo  lose  their 
ell'iMt.  I''ull_v  aware  of  this,  tiiul  with  a  view  to  hii;her 
olijiM'ts,  it  (VkI  not  escape  his  rellectioii  that,  (hirini;  tho 
1(111^  winter  ni^ht.s,  when  for  ii  certaiii  period  the  whohi 
day  was  in  fact  a  ni^lit,  an  oi)portiinity  miiiht  he  iilford- 
>'il  for  iiistnictini;  the  men  of  hoth  ships  in  at  letist  tlui 
."It'ineiitary  parts  of  education.     To  this  end  he  says, 

"To  furnish  rational  and  useful  orcn|)atioii  to  the  men  on 
ilic  other  eveiiiiiiis,  a  .school  was  also  estai)lislied.  nndei-  the 
vdlmitarv  sn|ii  rinteiidenco  of  Mr.  Iliilse,  for  the  instruction 
of  such  of  th(>  men  as  were  willinir  to  take  advantage  of  this 
(i|>|>(irtiiiiitv  of  leainin^  to  read  and  write,  oi-  of  iniprovini,'  in 
lliDse  actpiirenients.  The  same  |)laii  was  a(h>pted  on  lioard 
the  Hecla,  Henjamin  White,  one  of  the  .seamen,  wlio  had  he(Mi 
C(liu'ati>d  at  ("hrisl-chnrch  school,  volnnteerin^r  to  olViciate  as 
N(li(Milmaster.  'I'.ahles  were  set  np  fir  the  jinipose  in  the 
fiiitlsliip  part  of  the  lower  deck;  some  of  the  men,  already 
tliiis(|u;ditied,  nndertook  the  task  of  a.ssistinir  in  the  iiistrnctioii 
'it' their  .shipmates;  and  thus  were  alioiil  twenty  individuals 
hcjiitiijini,'  to  each  .slii|)  occupied  (>very  evenitiir,  froni  si.x  t<» 
eiulit  o'clock.  1  made  a  point  of  visitimr  the  school  occasion- 
ally during  the  winter,  hy  wav  of  eiiconrai^ing  the  men  in 
tLis  pruLst'wortby  occupation.,  and  1  can  safely  say  that  I  liavo 


\i 


V  . 


'  I. 


\ 


I'JO 


AIUTU'    VOYAC.r.H. 


Hrldtun  r\|i(>i'ii'H(C(l    j'rcliims  of  liiulirr  ^irnlilK  almii   tliaii  on 
tins  I'iMc  .'iiiii  iiil.K  .-liii-  M-hl." — 1'.    l-j:t.   I-JI. 

Ami  well  iiiii:lil  Ik'  he  ^nitilinl  ;  lnr  we  ill'«<  ilsHiirt'iI  li\ 
liini.  on  llir  rcliini  nrilic  ships  to  I'lii^liiiid,  tliiit  "cNcrv 
in:iii  oil  l)(i;inl  cuiilil  ri'iid  Ins  liililc." 

•Nor  writ"  the  iiitcrrsis  {\'(  sciriii't'  iic^lcctrd  \vlrili' 
ttit'sf  dtimi'slic  iiniiiii;ciiitMits  wcri'  in  prouicss.  A  poit 
lihlc  (iliscrviitoiT  \v;is  citcUmI  lor  iiiii^iictinil  olistTvu 
t  ions.  Mild  II  I  MM  ISO  I II I  ill  lor  the  rocoprMin  oT  tlit>  r(<(|iiisiio 
iiistinnuMits  lor  M-iroiioiniciil  oliscrMilions,  mi  id  lor  \m  nous 
cNpcriiiioiits  rccoiiiiiKMidod  hy  \\  cimiiii  '  'o  oI'iIic  I\o\  - 
nl  Sociotv.  Ill  short,  nothing  w  ms  iic^jrclcd  or  oinillcd 
thill  could  contrihiili'  to  tho  riillilliiionl  of  the  iiistriutioiis 
rort'i\»'d  li_v  tlit>  j'oiniiiMiidrr  of  tho  oxpoditioii  titiiii  tho 
Lords  of  the  Adiiiiriiliy . 

Am  ol)S('r\Mli(tii  of  Pnirv  shows  thiit  tlio  Arctic  cli- 
liiMtt'.  ('(pKilly  with  our  own.  is  intlin'iicoil  hy  a  chaiim- 
of  the  wind.  'Vhiis.  on  the  'JiUli  of  ( )ctol)('r,  when  tin- 
■wind  WMS  N.N.W'..  tlio  thcrinoiiiclcr  It'll  to  —10';  hui 
Vl'('rill^  to  till'  S.M.  on  the  -jith  mikI  ■,'')th.  it  rose  lo 
-f'J.'>'.  "  I  iiKiy  |)ossil)ly,"  lie  says.  "  incur  tho  ch;ir;:c 
<»r  allt'ct  itioii  ill  slMtiiiii  tluit  this  ti'inpcrMtiirc  wms  iiiik  h 
too  liiiih  •(•  l)o  iiurot'Miilo  to  us:  liiit  it  is.  novorthclcss. 
tlic  ImcI.  ihiit  o\orv  liodv  toll  and  coiiiplMinod  of  llic 
clianiii'.  This  is  explained  hy  their  «'lothiin:.  hcddiii;:. 
tiros,  and  other  precautious  aiiainst  the  sevi'rily  ol"  the 
cliiiiMte.  haviiii;  Ihmmi  once  adapted  to  a  low  deiiree  ot" 
cold,  an  increase  of  teni|»eratiire  lenders  them  ojipress- 
i\  ('  and  inconv(Miieut."  Another  circumstance  is  iiumi- 
tioiied.  which  may  st'rve  to  contirm  a  conjecture  which 
has  loiiii  heen  maintained  hy  soiii»>.  that  an  open  sea. 
l'ret>  ol"  ice,  exists  iit  or  lUNir  tlu'  Pole.  "  On  tlie  'Jd  ol" 
Noveiiiliei' "  says  Parry,  "the  wind,  rresheued  up  to  a 
jial»'  trom  N.  hy  W'.,  lowered  tlu>  ihermoiueter  ln'Tore 
iMithiiiihr  to  — ;")  ,  whei-(>as  a  rise  ol"  wind  at  Melvilh* 
Island  was  iicuerally  aceouipanitMl  hy  a  sinuiltiineous  riso 
ill  the  thetuionuMer  at  low  tein[)eratur«>s.  May  not 
this,"  he  aslvs.  "\\\>  occasioiu^d  hy  the  wind  hlowiiiy;  over 
an  open  st>a  in  tht>  (piarter  rrom  which  the  wind  hlows. 
and  ttMids  to  conlirm  the  opinion  tliat  at  or  near  tiie  Pole 
an  ojien  sea  I'riu*  ot' ice  exists  .'"'  If  the  ice  wlTudi  a  siii- 
jile  niiiht  ('^'^  six  miMiths"  continuous  (hiralioii  must  pro- 
duce were  not  d;spi>rsod  hy  tho  current  tliut  is  kiiowu 


1 


inn  iIkiii  nil 

IlSSlll-t'll    |l\ 
lint    "  CMM  \ 

clfd  while 
;s.  A  poit- 
•nl   (»lis('r\ii 

!(•  l"l'(|llisitl' 
I   ['{)]•  Mll'ioil'^ 

III"  llic  K(t\  - 
I  or  oiiiillcil 
iiislriutitiiis 

111    ti'dlll    llio 

'    Arctic   I'li- 

tv  ii  «liiiiim' 

r,  wlii'ii  tlic 

—  10    ;  lull 

I.  it    rose   Id 

•  the  cliaru'' 

I'  \v;is  iniK  li 

(>\  (M'tlirlc^^. 

illi'tl     tit'    tile 

li<i.  iM'ddiiii:, 

rity  ot"  till' 

tU'uriM>  dt" 

111  (ipprt'ss- 

ICC    is    IlKMl- 

tiirc  which 

I  open  sc;i, 

II  tilt'  'Jtl  dt" 

iit'd  up  td  !l 

c\rv  l)t'itin< 

at    Melville 

taiU'Diis  list) 
May  iidl 
Idwinii  ttvcr 
wiiitl  liidw-;. 

ar  tlid  Ttilc 
wliitdi  a  siii- 
1  must   pi'd- 

l   is   kUdWU 


CAPTAIN    TAUKY  H    SKCOM)    VOVACJH. 


1^1 


to  exist,  mill  which  the  I'tile  iisell"  nmy  pnilnilily  Ih>  iht< 
taiise  til"  prtiihiciiii:,  the  iiditli  w  ii  id.  Mislead  til  lieiii<j  cdjil 
iiiid  liiiislertiils,  wtiiild  he  iiulti.  The  aiiituii  imd  Imlties 
riiiiiitl  the  sun  ami  iiitMin  were  tit"  rret|iit'iit  appeaiaiic**, 
jnit  iidiie  (tltheni  very  reiiiarlvahle.  'Ilie  iiiai'.netic  ne(^- 
(ile.  atteiiti\ely  watched,  was  iinl  ItiniMl  tti  he  at  ail  al- 
It'cted  hy  any  nt"  these  |iheniuneiia. 

The  shtMtest  tliiy  passeil  witliiml  any  interest  heinj^ 
iitlat  hed  Id  it .  "  (  hi  a  Idrnier  dccasitm.  nttv  elly  ami  tlm 
pcciiiiaiity  III"  (tiir  sit  mil  inn  ^av(>  it  iiiipditaiice.  Nnw 
the  case  was  \i'\\  tliil'ereiil  ;  their  wintering  wjls  no 
Iniiuei"  an  e\periiiieiit  ;  their  ctiinltirts  were  greatly  iii- 
citiisetl.  and  the  |iriispect  til"  an  early  I'clease  as  lavdr- 
iilile  as  cdiild  he  ilesireil."  (  )n  ( "liristinas-diiy  divin(> 
service  was  pertdriiieil  on  Imard  tlie  l''nry.iiml  attemled 
liy  the  (illicers  niiil  crews  til"  htith  shifts;  an  ailditional 
alldwance  ol'  prdvisiiuis  was  issued,  "and  the  day  was 
iiiarKed  hy  the  nitist  cheerliil  hilarity,  acctnnpanieil  hy 
the  utiudst  i»'i:ularity  and  ^timl  di'tler."  Aiiioiii:;  the  lii\- 
iiiies  was  a  juint  dl"  ^ddtl  Miij^lish  roast  lieet",  preserved 
liy  the  diitsitle  heinp;  iiilihetl  w  ith  salt.  The  last  diiv  til' 
llie  year  lirdii<;ht  with  it  tlic  hii;h  liiatilicatioii  of  ohserv- 
iiii;lhe  excellent  health  and  spirits  enjoyed  hy  aliiitisf 
c\cry  titlicer  and  iiiaii  in  Itotli  ships.  The  diie  iii\aliti 
was  so  much  imprdved  that  sanguine  liupes  were  enter- 
tained of  his  continiietl  aniemlment. 

Ilavini;  pittvided  t'tir  the  emplttymeiit  ami  recreation 
(lithe  men.  Parry  still  seemed  to  think  that  it  iniij,lit  ho 
iiiia<iiii(>d.  as,  iiideetl.  had  Ixmmi  anticipated,  that  want  dl' 
iid\elty  was  a  disadvantage  likely  to  render  the  cdiiliiie- 
iiit'iit  ol'tho  ol'licers  more  tedious  than  he  ("ore  at  .Melvillo 
Isliiiul ;  hut  this,  he  says,  was  nt»t  the  case  ;  the  nieu  hail 
always  eiuploymcnt  i'liou^li  to  prevent  their  hciiiff  idle, 
thtiUjiih  iitit,  perhaps,  sutlicient  to  prevent  unpleasant 
tlitiuiihts  tVdm  dccasitinally  ohti'iidinj;  themselves  ;  luit  the 
(itlicers  alsd  had  mostly  resources  within  themselves. 
\Vi\\\  rej^ard  to  tliem,  he  ohserves,  that  "  what  with 
reading;,  writiiiix.  makiiiii  and  calculating  (ihservalituis.  tih- 
scrxiiiii  the  varitius  natural  pheiidiiieiia,  and  takiiijLj  tln^ 
exercise  necessaiv  to  |)reserve  our  health,  uohndy,  I  he- 
lieve,  ever  t"ell  any  symptoms  of  (iiniii  duriuif  our  coil- 
tiiiuKiico  in  winter  <iiiarlers."'     iU\  adds  : 

Li 


i 


i  i»  it 
il 


( 


I  i 

it, 


!     i 


t  k 


■f 


1  o»> 

1  V  w 


AlU  TIC    Vov.^^J^'^^ 


"  \min):;  llic  it'criviliniis  \n  lii<  !■  ilVunli'd  lln-  lii-lic-if  irniild- 
(Vllioti  lo  srvi'Kil  .'IIIMMI;;  W*.  I  IIIMV  iiici  liuii  tlii>  iiiii'^ii  ;il  p.nlKM 
we  wiM'r  i'ii.'ili|)<(l  to  liiilstiT,  tliid  ului  li  ii?«srinlil(><l.  nil  Mliilni 
f\ciiiiiL.'s  tlii'iMii^liniit  till'  \\iiit<'i,  iillcni'itclv  Ml  ( 'iiiiiiii:iiiilir 
I, Mill's  t-.iliiii  :iMil  III  iii\  nwii.  ,Miii'i>  sUilltiil  iiiii;il<'iirs  III  iiiiisjc- 
inifillt  VM'II  li;iM>  sinili'il  iit  llii-si',  our  liiiiiil>li<  rniiiTrls ;  Iml  it 
will  not  iiii  liiii<  tliciii  to  think  I  ox  ot  I  lie  xinu-o  llicv  aiiiniio 
to  he  ,i>siin'il  ijiiit,  111  ttifsc  iciiiotc  jiiiil  di'soliilo  regions  of  llio 
fjlolto.  it  li.is  ol'ti'ii  riirni-hcd  iH  \\  itii  till'  iiio-it  |>Ii':isiii  ;il)lo  sciisii- 
lioiis  wlucli  oiil'  sitii.itHMi  w.is  r;n>;il(lc  of  iilVoidiii;;  ;  lor.  iiido- 
piMidoutiv  ortlic  iniMT  ninlilicMlion  iilllirdod  to  tlio  i-.iiltv  ttiiHic, 
till  ri«  i«i,  n(<rli;ip>».  si'Mrci-iy  ii  person  in  tlio  world.  ri>!illv  Hmd 
of  It,  in  \vliosi>  niiiid  its  sound  is  not  more  or  loss  ronnrilid 
witli  'his  liir-ilist.ini  Innni'.'  'rhorc  .iro  .ilwiivs  Honio  roiiioin- 
Immiu'os  \vliulir<Mi(icr  thi'in  insi'p.ir.ihli".  .•iiid  llioso  ;issoci,ilioiH 
nro  not  to  lio  di's|iis«'d  \\  huh.  \\  In';!-  wo  ;irc  oni;;iL;od  in  tho 
jici  tonn;in«'o  ot  our  duty,  f.in  still  ofciisioiiiillv  transport  iis 
into  tho  sotiiil  tiiflo  ol'  onr  Irionds  at  liomo.  in  spile  ol"  the 
txe.ans  that  roll  Iietween  ns. 

"  \\  ilh  onr  time  thus  ocenpied,  oiir  coinlorls  so  al>niidant. 
and  the  prospect  to  seaward  so  enli\  eiiiii;:,  it  wonid  indeed 
hive  Iteeii  onr  own  tiinlts  had  w  (<  t'elt  anv  tliiiu;  Imt  eiijoN  inent 
in  our  present  st.ite,  and  the  most  lively  ho|tes  and  e\peita- 
tions  lor  tlie  I'ntiire."' — l'.  1  t;'.. 

Tlio  liist  (lay  ol'llie  new  yt<nr  is  (leseiil)e(l  as  l>oiii>;  ji 
viM'V  seviMc  owi"  it)  till"  o|i(Mi  air,  tli«>  tlieiiinniKMef  down 
to  — 00  ■.  and  the  wind  hlowiiii:;  sfronj;  tVoni  tln>  N.W'., 
on  winch  it  mtiy  he  obstM'ViMl.  tliaf  the  eHect  of  n  slfon^ 

M>*>\.t-7il         i\1\         tlllk         tilMMtllVC  <«\'Jtt1         111        f  i1  II  1l\l  11'M  f  «\        clllimfitiJ  I.J 


tiT  ol  an  hour  Avillioiit  iiicotivtMii(Mic(> :  wliilo.  with  ii 
iVi'sli  bri'e/.i\  and  tho  tluMMiioinotof  tioaiiy  jis  Itij^h  as 
•/t>ro.  I'twv  people  »'aii  k»'ep  their  hands  exposed  so  h»ii;; 
willunit  coiisideiahlt*  pain."  Hv  nu>ans  ol'  Svlvi'ster's 
stove.  how'evt>r.  mid  ii  jiuheious  iirfanuenieiit  of  the  lines, 
no  inconvenience  was  tell  in  the  siiips.  even  at  the  teiii- 

ll.Wlt  111-il      .>♦'    \<l    ^ 


jieratiire  ot"  — .">;>  \ 


pel  ainre  oi  — .>:'    . 

Oniiii;;  th<"  eold  month  of  .lunimrv  tVcM^iuMit  oppoilii- 
nities  occnvfoil  o{'  luaUinu  a  variety  ot"  ineteofoloiiieal 
obstM'vations  on  th(>  Aurora  l'(»rt>alis.  on  parludia,  and 
]i;iniselena\  and.  at  the  same  time,  Mr.  I'isluM- wtis  l"ully 


i  * 


CMTAIN     r.MtKV  H    JT.roMl    \i»VA(;i;. 


l^:\ 


t  '    •. 


:;lnwf  lynilin. 

lsi(  .ll  |1,||||<W 
•tl,    oil    si. -I  I  I'll 

( 'oiiitiiMiiilir 

MIIS    III    lllllNlf 

•  I'lls ;  lull  ii 
llirv  :iiliiiiri< 
I'i^iniis  III'  ||ii« 
liiilili"  siMisi- 
;; ;  tiir.  imlf- 
'.irliv  iiiii'^if, 
.  ii'.illy  lliiiil 
IS  roiiiu'cli'd 

•  nil'  li'Ilirili- 
'  a.Hsoci.iliuiis 
.iLii'tl  ill  llii< 
li-,iii-|)iirl  lis 
spill-  of  llio 

0  .iImiiiiImmI. 
oiilil   iiiilci'il 

1  ciijoymi'iit 
11(1  «-x|)r(t;i- 

as  IxMMU:  !l 
lolcr  down 

tlu'  N'.W., 
of  n  stroi)!; 
•liiiiJitcs.  IS 
IK'S  |)irniriil 
•ry.  "  with 
irrinj;.  tlu^ 
or  !i  (iKiir- 
lo.  with  ii 
us  liioh  MS 
I'd  so  lony; 
>ylv('stt'r's 
t'  the  lines, 

1    lll(>   tlMU- 

it  ojipovtii- 
coroloixical 
rlicliii,  mid 
r  was  fuHv 


oinployiMl  ill  ohsrrviii^  tlio  dip,  viiriiilioii,  and  iiiiliiwitiiiM 

nrilif  iiia.Mirlic  li Ho.     Tlio  olcit  I  oiiiolor  wiis  iVoipioiil- 

|\    iip|iliod    to    till'    mast   lioiid   cliaiti.    and    llio    miiiuiii-Iio 
iiii'ilif  roiistaiill_\    VMilcliod   dining   all   llio    appoiiniiicri 

oi  llic   \iiioiii;   lint  iioillici' of  t  lioso  was  on  liny  on • 

1  ;i-niM  siMisilily  alloctrd.      I'laiiKlin,  it   may  lio  olisoivt'd, 
nil  llii'  slioros  of  llio  I'olar  Soa,  loiiiid  it  olliorw  iso. 

I  III  llio  Is!  ol  I'olniiarN  a  now  sonioo  ol'  noM-Jty  miil 
iiiiiiisfiiionl  most  mioNpoctodly  pio.oiitod  ifsolf  m  tlio 
iinpi'oiii'li  oT  somo  si  ran^o  poopio  toward  llio  ships.  lint, 
j'liirv  imisl  dosciilio  tlic  inlciviow. 

••  I  III  llio  iiioiiiiii^  ol'llio  I  si  of  I 't'hiii.irv  it  \\  ;is  ropoili  d  to 
111,'  ih.il  ii  iiiiiiihor  III  sIi;iiil:o  poopio  woro  sorn  lo  llio  \sosl- 
wMiil.  rniiiiiii;  lowiird  llio  >liip-.  o\oi-  llio  iio.  (  )ii  diitcliiii; 
;i  ^liiss  lowiiid  llioni  wo  liMiiiil  llioiii  III  ho  l'.sipiini;iii\,  iiiiil 
;il>ii  ili.-rovoiod  soiiio  iippo;ir;iiiio  ol  huts  on  slioio  iil  llio  <lis- 
l:iiii  I-  of  two  iiiilos  iVoiii  llio  .ships.  III  llio  >;iiiio  il iioci ion.  | 
iiiiiiii'iiiiili'jv  sol  mil.  III  roiiip.'llliod  h\  ( 'oiiiiii:iiii'  I'  l,\oii,  iiii 
ollircr  Iroiii  o;i(  h  ship,  ;ind  two  ol  llio  inoii.  to  moot  iho  iia- 
liM'-.  w  lio,  III  I  III-  iHinihor  of  liv  o-;inil-l  w  only ,  woro  duiw  ii  up 
ill  ,1  liiir  ;ihio;isl,  ,'iiid  still  ;iil\  aiiioil  slowly  toward  lis.  \.h 
\\c  appioai'liod  iioaror  lliov  sloml  slill,  loiiiainiii;,'  as  holoro, 
ill  il  naiipaci  lino,  Irom  wliicli  llioy  did  no!  nio\o  liir  soino 
tiiiio  aflor  wr  ro.iiliod  llioin.  iNolliiiiL;  coiild  oxcood  ihoir 
(iiiii'l  iiiid  oidorlv  holiavioioii  this  occasion,  which  pn  -oiiloil 
a  MTV  sliikiii^  coiilrasi  with  the  noisy  donioaiior  of  tho  nalivos 
of  lliulsoii's  Strait.  Tlioy  ap|ioaroil  at  :i  disliinco  to  Imvo 
iiniiws  ill  tlioir  hands,  hut  what  wc  had  lakon  for  hows  or 
s|icais  proNod  to  ho  only  a  low  hl.ados  of  whalohoiio,  which 
llic\  had  hioiiL;lil  oillior  as  a  poaco-olVoriiiL:  or  for  h.iitoi.  and 
which  w(>  ininicdialoly  |)iircliMsod  lor  a  low  small  nails  and 
heads.  Soiiio  of  the  woiiion,  of  whom  tlioi  •  woro  ihroo  or 
fiiii-.  ,is  woll  as  two  childron,  in  this  party,  having'  haiidsoino 
(lollies  on,  which  attractod  our  attoiilion.  llioy  ho:;aii,  to  our 
iillcr  astoiiishmoiil  and  constcrn.ition,  to  strip,  ihoiiLdi  tho 
liiciiiiomotor  stood  at  ".'i  holow /oro.  Wo  soon  found,  how- 
ever, tli.it  lliero  w.is  nolhiiii,'  so  droadhil  in  this  as  wo  at  lirsf 
iiuauiiied,  ovorv  iiuliv  idiial  amom;  them  haviiii,'  on  a  coniploto 
(louhlc  suit.  The  wliolo  woro  of  (h-or  skin,  and  looked  Imlli 
clean  and  conilhrtalilo."— I'.  1.^!). 

Tliis  party  ('(nKhictod  ihomsidvc.'*  with  jj;i'»Mif  dororum, 
and  witlioiit  any  appichonsioii  visihio  on  thiMr  coiint**- 
nancos  or  iiiannor  ;  thcrolore,  as  soon  as  all  tliat  thoy  hud 
lu  sell  luul  been  purcliased,  ii  >Yisii  nyiis  expressed  by 


'   »a 


1.: 


'il 
'I  ■ 


r 


■^ 


124 


ARCTIC    VOYA'JES. 


sisiiis  to  a.  fompaiiy  tliciii  to  their  liuts.  The  description 
wliicli  I'oilow  s  is  ciirioiis  and  idiiMcstiiiy  : 

"When  it  is  irmcmhcri'd  thiit  tlirsc  liahitatioiis  were  tullv 
^vililill  siylit  (il  the  >hi|).>.  iiiid  liinv  iiiaiiy  eves  were  cniitiiiUMliy 
ou  tlu'  look-out  uiiioiiic  lis  liir  any  thing  thai  iMtiild  atllnd  variety 
or  intcn'st  in  our  present  sitnation,  <»ur  snrpi-isc  may  in  sonn' 
dei:i'ee  Ije  iniai.'ined  at  llndini:  an  estahli>hnient  ot"  live  iiiils, 
with  canoes,  sleiL'es.  (hti,'s,  and  aixAc  sixty  men,  women,  and 
<'hii(h'en,  as  rej^nlariy,  and  to  aU  a|)pearance  as  j)ei'manentlv 
lixed,  as  if  they  liad  occupied  the  same  spot  ila-  ihe  whole 
waiter.  11  tlie  first  view  of  tiie  exterior  of  lliis  htlh'  villas."' 
was  such  as  to  creiite  astoni.->hment.  tliat  teehiii.'  was  in  no 
BinaU  deu'ree  heiirhtent'd  on  acce|)linu'  the  invit;  tion  sodu 
jriveu  ns  to  enter  thi-se  extraoichnary  hnuses.  iii  llic  construc- 
tion of  which  we  observi-d  diat  notasinu'le  material  was  nsed 
but  snow  and  ice.  After  cree])iiii:  thiini_di  two  lo>v  u  i.  sai:<'s. 
liavini/  each  it.s  arched  (htor-\Na\',  we  came  to  a  sniaU  circular 
apartment,  of  wliich  the  roof  was  a  perfect  arched  tlDine. 
Fi'oiii  tlii.s  thn'e  door-ways,  al:;o  arched  and  of  lari^er  diitieii- 
siiins  than  the  outer  ones,  led  into  as  man\  idiahited  apar!- 
nients,  one  on  I'acli  side,  and  the  otiii'r  facin::  ns  as  we  en- 
tered, 'i'he  interior  of  diese  presenteil  a  scene  no  less  novid 
than  interesting.  'Ihe  women  wi-re  seated  on  the  l»eds  at. 
the  sides  of  the  huts,  each  liaving  her  little  tireplace,  or  lamp, 
with  all  lier  (h)mesti(t  utensils  ahout  her;  the  children  ci'ept 
behind  tiieir  motliers,  and  the  dogs,  except  the  female  ones, 
which  were  induli:ed  with  a  part  of  the  beds,  slunk  out  past. 
ns  ill  dismay.  Tiie  construction  of  this  inhabited  part  ot  the 
huts  was  similar  to  that  of  the  outei-  apartment,  being  a  dome 
lormed  by  sepaiati-  blocks  of  s^now,  laid  with  great  regularity 
iiiid  net  small  art,  each  iieing  cut  into  the  slia|)e  re(|uisite  to 
form  a  .substantial  arch,  from  seven  to  eight  feet  lii^di  in  tin; 
eenter.  and  having  no  support  whatever  but  what  this  princi- 
])le  of  i)uilding  supi'lied.  I  shall  not  here  farther  describe 
the  peculiarities  of  tla'se  viirious  edilices,  remarkini:  only  that 
a  cheerful  and  sutVicieiit  light  was  admitted  to  them  by  a  cii- 
ciilar  wimlow  of  ice,  neatly  titled  into  the  roof  of  each  apart- 
ment."—  1'.  1()(). 

When  we  itdlect  bow  niaiiv  volmiies  have  been  writ- 
ten.  Innv  inneh  discussion  has  taken  place,  b(nv  mncdi 
learned  coiijcM'tni'e  on  ibe  iiivetition  and  oriirii)  of  tlie 
jircli,  even  in  this  liiter  ag«'.  wlial  merit  are  we  prepared 
to  bestow  on  one  of  the  most  imh'.  the  most  simple.  hikI 
most  isolute<'i  lace  ot'  Immaii  beings  that  exist  .'  Nature, 
assisted  perhaps  by  observation,  has  taught  this  people 
tlie  Irne  priuci[)lo  iind  con.structiun  ot"tli».<  lu'eli. 


escriptiuii 

were  I'lillv 
■niitiiiiiiilly 
11(1  vuriitv 
ly  ill  sdiiii' 

live  liiu>. 
nincii.  ;m(i 
riiiiiin'iitlv 
tilt'  whole 
llr  vill;i-c 
^viis   ill   ii(( 

tidii  soon 
•  (•(itl>tiur- 

Wiis  used 
■  n  I  ■>;i::('s. 
11  circular 
(■(1  (liiiiir. 
cr  (liiiicii- 
tcd  apar!- 

!|S    \\C     Cll- 

Icss  novel 
<•   Iteds  nt 
',  or  lam|i, 
!i"eii  crept 
iiale  ones, 
k  ciiit  [la.-t 
irt  ot  the 
:.'  a  dome 
.Milarity 
uisite  to 
h  in  llio 
[irinci- 
descriho 
only  that 
liy  a  ('it- 
ch apai't- 

Mi  wrif- 
imiclx 

of  tlio 
irt'pari'd 
i|)lt\  Hiid 
N)if  lire, 

poopio 


CAPTAIN    rAIlRY  ri    SECOND    VOYAGE. 


li>5 


'•Wo  foniid,"  siiys  Pni-i-v,  "our  new  nccpiaiiitiinre  ns 
dfsiro.is  ot"  pli'iisiiii:  lis  as  nc  wci-o  rciidy  to  he  ph-ascd," 
A  faviirahlc  impression  was  iiiado  on  the  tlrst  inti'rvitMV, 
which  was  not  (liiiiinishcd  diiriiiii  a  constant  iiitt>rcoiii'so 
t\\  three  (»r  tour  inoiitlis.  'I'liese  poor  creatui'es,  wlu), 
wifli  all  tlieir  iintortutiate  iwe,  have  heen  thrown  by 
late  into  tlie  least  iiahitahle  portions  (tf  the  ijl(»be,  amid 
cteiiiiil  ice  iiiid  snow,  possess  many  valuable  aixi  amiahh; 
(liiidilies.  aniontf  some  others  that  are  less  so.  and  are 
(■(iinnioii  to  all  savage  or  uneducated  people.  Those  of 
the  tribe  here  mi't  with  are  desci-ibed  in  tlieir  behavior 
as  heiiiii  in  the  iiiyhest  de'^n't^  respectful,  orderly,  and 
"(ind  humored.  'J'hev  i^nvc  the  vovayers  every  reas- 
(III  to  believe  that  they  j)ossesse(l,  in  no  ordiiia»'y  de- 
::ree.  the  quality  of  honesty  —  !i  (piality  not  usually 
timiid  amouij;  an  uncivilized  jxMiple  ;  "but  !i  (piality," 
I'aiiy  observes,  "the  more  desirable  to  us,  as  we  had 
1)11  shore,  besides  the  linuse  and  observatory,  all  our 
lioats  and  other  arti(des,  which,  had  they  Iieen  disposed 
Id  pilfer,  it  would  have  recpiired  all  our  viijilance  to 
jxiiaid.  If  we  (h'op])ed  a  ylove  or  a  handUendiief  witli- 
(iiit  knowing  it,  they  would  immediately  direct  (»ur  att<Mi- 
tidii  to  it  by  pointiiijii:  and  if  the  owner  had  left  the  liiit 
tii'tore  they  discovered  it,  they  would  run  out  after  him 
to  ictiu'ii  it.  Nay,  more,  if  any  tiling  lia|)peii(M|  to  bo 
Ifl't  at  the  huts,  they  would  travel  down  to  the  ships  to 
rf'tiirii  it  to  tlie  owner.  A  pair  of  tluMr  doj;s  was  pur- 
chased for  the  lleclii,  whicli  broke  loos(!  and  disappear- 
ed ;  but  next  day  two  were  found  chained  up  on  board 
till!  Fury,  \yhich,  on  incpiiiy.  proved  to  be  the  animals 
ill  (piestion,  and  wiiich  had  thus  been  faithfully  restored 
to  their  rightful  owners."  Many  other  instances  satis- 
tied  th(>  voyajz^M's  that  dishonesty  is  not  a  i)romineiit  vice 
aiiioiig  tliese  poor  people. 

.Iiidiling  from  the  sample  wlio  visited  ihe  ships  at 
Winter  Island,  they  exhibit  none  of  those  traits  of  stu- 
pidity by  which  they  liave  generally  been  distinguished, 
liiit  v,ould  rather  appear  to  be  lively  and  cheerful  than 
to  show  any  signs  of  dullness,  (^iiiet  and  ordHily,  how- 
ever, ns  they  were  disposed  to  be  on  their  tirst  visit, 
they  betrayed  n  strong  inclination  to  merriment :  for 
I'arry  observes,  thai  on  Cumnmiider   Lvon's  oiderinj^ 

J.  J 


''  ■( 


i  Kt   i 


V  ! 


(^ 


l'^>0 


AliCTlC    VOYAGE; 


liis  ruliilfV  to  t'xliihit  upon  the  llccln's  dccU,  llioy  (liinrt'd 
^vith  tlii^  sciiUKMi  I'or  iin  hour,  aiiil  llicii  rtMtiriM'il  in  liin|i 
j;lt'i'  iiiul  iiO(»il  liimior  to  thcii'  Imls.  Aiiotln'r  paily  took 
yrrat  (IfHiilil  in  rLshMiinji  to  tlio  oriiini,  and  to  any  tliin;; 
in  the  sliapt'  of  nnisic,  sini^int:;,  or  dancing,  of  all  which 
they  appoari'd  to  ho  iiMnaiUahly  fond. 

^rh(>  sanio  party  woro  asked  It)  <;o  through  the  ])ro- 
oess  of  huiidinii  a  snow-hiit  for  tlu*  anuiscMnont  and  in- 
formation of  the  Kni'opeans.  "  l-'rom  thci  (jnicknoss," 
says  Parry,  "  with  which  thcv  C()ni|)l«'t(nl  this,  our  sur- 
prise at  tlu*  sudden  appearance  of  the  villaye  ceased,  iis 
Ave  now  saw  that  two  or  thive  hours  would  he  more 
than  sulticient  to  have  cornph>t»'d  the  whoh^  estahlisli- 
nient  just  as  we  at  first  found  it."  'Vhv  followiiiij;  diiy 
a  luimher  of  natives  came  on  hoard,  accordiiiii  to  pi»»ni- 
ist>,  to  rehuild  the  hut  in  a  more  substantial  maimer,  and 
to  put  a  plate  of  ice  in  the  roof  as  a  window,  which  they 
did  with  jireat  (piickness  as  well  as  care,  several  of  tlm 
women  ciieerfullv  assistini;  in  Uie  lahor.  The  men 
sjMMued  to  take  no  small  pride  in  sliowing  in  how  expe- 
ditious and  workmanliki'  a  manner  tlu'y  cordd  perform 
this  ;  and  the  hut,  with  its  v)uter  passaue,  was  soon  coni- 
l)li^teil.  JJut  they  extiMid  tlie  us«i  of  this  transparent 
material,  applyinu  that  of  iVo/.en  honimocs  to  other 
])urposes.  A  shMl^e  was  ivquired  to  carry  u  youth  lo 
some  distance,  and  none  at  hantl  : 

"  We  touii''  however,  that  a  num.  wlioni  we  had  (»l)sen'c(l 
for  sonie  tii  at  work  jin'.oni:  the  lioinniocs  of  ice  n]>oii  tin- 
heacli,  liad  .-a  eniployi'tl  in  cuttin;,'  out  of  that  ahundiiat 
niiiterial  a  ncnt  and  servici'al)le  little  slcdjze,  hoUowetl  like  a 
howl  or  tray  oat  of  a  solid  hlock,  and  smciothlv  roumli-d  iit 
the  bottom.  Tlu>  thouir  to  which  the  doi:.s  wore  attachi-d  was 
secured  lo  a  i.noov(>  cut  round  its  upper  edge;  and  the  youMi: 
s(\d-catclier.  sented  in  this  siunile  vfliicle.  w;is  drairtjed  aloiii: 

•  1'..  ro  O 

wuh  greiit  convenuMU'c  ;nid  conilort.'  — 1*.  -JOf). 

(^iptain  Parry  heiuix  desirous  of  tryini:;  liow  far  they 
iniiiht  he  disposed  to  j)arl  with  their  chiklren,  ])roposed 
to  luiy  !i  fine  lad.  named  I'oolooak,  for  the  valuable  con- 
sideration of  a  liandsome  butcher's  knife.  His  fathei-. 
appaiently  understandiuii  the  meaninii,  joyfully  accepted 
tlie  knife,  and  tin'  boy  set  off  in  hi^h  spirits,  and  at  lirst 
iUssisled  hi  drawing  a  sledge  ;  but  beginiihig,  by  some 


oy  (Imiccd 

«mI  ill  hi;;li 

pally  took 

any  tiling 

all  which 

1  tlio  i)ro- 
Mit  aiul  iii- 
juic'Unoss,"' 
s,  our  sur- 
ceased, as 
1  ho.   uioro 
I  <»stal)lish- 
lowinii  (liiy 
ii  to  |)r(»ni- 
lainuM',  ami 
vvliuh  they 
(•ml  of  tlio 
'riu^    uit'ii 
liow  j'xpc- 
ild  jxM'lorm 
1  soon  coni- 
transpart'iit 
■s   to   otht-r 
u  youth  to 

ad  obsrn'cd 

ICO  ni>oii  tlic 

at  ahuiidiint 

)wcil  like  a 

roundfd  iit 

ttailuMl  w;is 

tlic  youiu' 

1.1,'yod  along 


\v 


fur  thoy 

])ropos«Hl 

uahle  co!i- 

lis  liitiuT. 

y  accepted 

und  at  first 

H,  by  some 


cAi'TAiv  I'ARUv  ri  sr:co\D  VOVACi:. 


127 


aililiiioiial  simis,  moic  ( iearly  to  e(»nipreheiid  the  tnui 
iiieaniiiij;  of  iiis  situation,  took  the  opportunit}  to  slink 
oil  ainoiij:  some  homniocs  of  ice,  so  that,  when  iho 
party  arrived  on  lioaid,  '^Tooltmak  was  missing. 

'ItKtiooak,  liowever,  was  a  constant  visitor  to  I*arry, 
and  considered  himself  fully  j)rivileffed  to  find  his  way 
into  the  cahin.  "  lie  sat  with  me,"  says  I'ariy,  "one 
day  lor  u  oouph^  of  hours,  (piietly  diawinj;  liices  and 
animals,  an  occu|)atiou  to  which  he  took  a  j^real  fancy  , 
and  we  often  wen*  reminded  liy  this  circumstance  of  u 
similar  propensity  displayed  hy  his  amiahle  countryman, 
our  lamented  IricMid,  John  Sackhoust?."'  Ih*  ^oes  on 
to  s.iv :  "  We  soon  loiind  that  'l\»o!ooak  possessed  ii 
cajiacity  etpial  to  any  lliin<j;  hi*  chose  to  take  an  interest 
ill  l.'arniiiii ;  and  could  he,  at  his  present  aye.  have  heeii 
volinitarily  removed  from  his  companions,  and  iiis  atten- 
tion directed  to  the  ac(|uii(Miient  of  hiiilu^r  hraiiches  of 
knowledge  than  that  of  catchin<i  s(<als,  lu*  would  amply 
have  re|)aid  any  [)uins  bestowed  upon  his  education." 

An  overture  made  by  I'urry  to  this  ellecf,  and  of  ro- 
iiiovinji  him,  broui^ht  forwaid,  as  it  was  intended,  a  fino 
trail  of  feeliiii!;  and  character  in  this  youth,  and  proI)ably 
not  luiconunou  in  this  too  umcii  despised  people.  Parry 
adds  : 

'•  I  had  always  entertained  a  ^rreal  objection  to  lakiii;,'  away 
ativ  such  individiiid  trom  his  liomc,  on  ibe  doubtful  cliaiice  of 
bfiicfitiiif:  himself,  or  of  bis  doiii^  any  service  to  the  public 
as  an  interjiroU-r.  My  scruples  on  this  bead  bad  bitbci-to 
licin  confined  to  the  cousiib-ration  diw  to  the  individual  liiin- 
M'lr.  and  to  llie  relatives  be  leaves  behind.  In  our  present 
casi',  however,  not  the  smallest  public  advantai:e  could  Im;  div 
rivrd  from  it;  tor  it  batl  loii^  airo  become  evident  that  wo 
sliould  soon  know  more  of  the  Ks(|uimanx  lanf,'uage  than  any 
of  tliem  were  likely  to  learn  of  Knirlisb,  in  any  reasonabU'  j)(> 
riud  of  time:  1  was,  therefore,  llu'  fioni  desirinii  to  receive 
from  Toolo(tak  an  answer  in  the  afVirmative,  when  1  to-day 
plainly  put  the  (juestioii  to  bim,  wlu-tber  be  would  1:0  with 
nil'  to  KdhlooiKt  Xitonn  (Kuropi'an  couiitiy)  ?  Never  was  a 
more  decisivt^  ne^rative  uiveii  ibaii  Toolooak  -.'avc'  to  ibis  ])ro- 
l)osal.  He  eairertv  repeated  the  word,  Na-o  (No),  half  a  d(»/- 
eii  limi's.  and  then  toM  ine  that  ii"  be  went  away  bis  fiitber 
would  crv.  This  simple  but  irresistible  appeal  to  pati-riial  af- 
fi'cfion.  bis  dt>cisive  manner  of  making'  it,  and  the  f(;('!iiii:s  by 
which  his  reply  was  evidently  dictated,  were  ju.>l  whul  could 


)  1 


I  Hi' 


v! 


t 


1,1 


i'l 


'  fl 


fy\ 


/' 


■  mi»  iMWi*.  - 


128 


ARCTIC    VOYAOKS. 


h:\\r  l)i>rii  wlslicd.  No  ninr(>  cmilil  Ix'  iiccr-isiirv  to  coMvinct' 
those  who  wiliir-scd  it  tli.it  thc^o  |ii'o|iK'  iiiav  jiisiK  l;iv  (>(|iiiil 
«'l;iim.  with  oursclvos.  t.o  ihrso  <oiiiimoii  rci'nii:,'s  oldur  iiiitiin" ; 
iind  having'  uiu c  f>;iti>li('il  iii\  sell"  ot"  this.  I  ih'liTiiiiiitMl  iicmt 
ii^'iiiii  to  rxcit<>  ill  Tooiooiik's  iiiiiid  .'iiiotlicr  dis.'iu'ivi'Mlilc  sni- 
Kjitioii  l)v  tidkiui;  to  liiiii  on  lliis  snhject."" — I'.   17:5,  17  I. 

Oil  ail  early  visit  to  \\\o  liuts,  which  was  mado  hy 
I'arrv,  ho  I'ouiid  mily  womumi  and  cliildreii.  tlio  iiicii 
haviiii:  iioiie  on  a  scalinij  cxcMrsioii  ;  mi»»  of  the  totiiier. 
iiained  Ih^liuK,  ihe  iiiothtM-  ot"  the  lad  ToolooaK.  favored 
liim  with  11  soui:.  nhiidi.  he  says,  i^ave  prool's  ot"  her 
"  haviiit:,  a  reinaiUaltly  sott  voice,  an  <>\celleiit  ear,  and 
n  <:reat  toiidness  t'or  siimiiii:.  We  had,  on  tlieir  tiisf 
visit  to  tho  ships,  remarked  this  ti-ait  in  Miuiink's  dispo- 
sition when  slit»  was  hsteniiii:,  t"or  llie  tirst  time,  to  the 
sound  ot"  tht'  oruan.  ot' wliich  she  seemed  never  to  liave 
tMiouuli,  and  ahnost  every  (hiy  sh(>  now  l)e<;an  to  display 
some  symptom  ot"  that  superiority  ot"  understandiiii:;  tor 
whi(di  sho  was  so  remarkahly  distin2;nisht>d." 

MMiis  Ksiptimanx  t'emalc*  was  indeed  a  most  i-xtraor- 
dinary  (■reatiir(\  and  oin^  thiit  would  have  distinunisheii 
lierselt'  in  any  soci«'ty,  not  meiudy  hy  her  musical  cra- 
viiiiis.  tor  her  whole  soul  appears  to  have  heeii  music, 
hilt  more  hy  lier  unlaniilit  intellectual  jiowers.  In  her 
exhihition  ot"  the  former  (piulity,  on  various  occasions. 
slu«  is  charijeahle  only  witii  one  of  the  two  vice's  wliich 
lloraco  hriiiiis  against  the  whole  tribe  of  siii<iers  in  his 
i\i\\—<mui}hns  cdii/orihus — so  tar  Irom  reipiirinj;  to  he 
coaxed,  slio  was  always  most  ready  to  siiiij; :  but  I'arrv 
say  s,  "  thcr«'  was  scarctdy  any  stoppinji  her  when  she  had 
oiico  heiinn,"  A  party  of  her  counlrywomen  were  one 
day  on  boiird.  wIumi.  to  aimise  tliem,  the  litth^  band  ot' 
llntos  and  violins  was  struck  u|),  and  also  some  son^s, 
with  which  tii»\v  were  all  deli<;hle(i.  "  I  t'eared,"  Parry 
siiys,  "that  soint>  of  tlu'iii,  cspeoisilly  lliiilink,  would 
lia\e  ijone  into  tits  with  rapture  wlten  we  introduced 
iuTo  our  sonii  soiiu>  of  their  names  miiiiiled  with  our 
own."  It  was  enouij;h.  wo  arc  told,  l"or  this  intorostiiii; 
creature  just  to  make  tlu'  motion  of  tiuMiiiii:  the  handlt^ 
of  the  orjian.  wliich,  couveyiny  to  her  mind  the  itiea  of 
music,  was  always  sure  to  put  her  iminediutely  into 
high  spirits. 


Ifr 


Ill  ('Olivine** 
y  l;iy  f(|tiii| 
)iii"  iitilmi" ; 

illl'll     IH'MT 

I'c'ililr  fii'ii- 
17  I. 

iiindc  l)y 
the  men 
i(>  loniitT. 
U,  r!ivui-('(l 
>l"s  ol"  her 
t  our.  Mild 
tlit'ir  lirst 
il\'s  (lis|)()- 

IIC.  t(»  tll(> 
IT   to   llMVC 

to  flisplMV 
iiiidiiii:  lor 

t  oxtnior- 
liiimiislicd 
isical  (Tfi- 
t'li  music. 

1.        Ill    lltT 

occiisioiis, 
ITS  wliirli 
[crs  in  his 
•inj;  to  1)0 
l)nt  Piinv 
'11  she  had 

wtTo  one 
;i  himd  of 
no  soii^s, 
d,"  Pan  y 
ik,  would 
iitro(hicod 

with  our 
uterj'stiiii; 
lio  haiidlo 
10  idoa  of 
utoly  into 


CAI'TAIV    I'AKKV  S    SKCOM)    VoVAiJC.  I2i) 

\  trait  oftho  superior  characlor  and  proud  loidin::  ">!' 
tins  riMiiaiUalilo  Inn. do  iiiain»';-slod  ilsoH'  at  an  emlv  |)i'- 
11(1(1.  wliadi.  ainoni!,  many  othors.  ajipoars  to  lie  (nulo 
siiHicicnt  to  provo  that  such  persons  as  lli^liuk.  her  son 

'rodlooak.  and  .loliu  Sackhoiise,  re(piire  hut  i jerale 

(!,  Uioc  ol"  ediicalioii  to  ^i\e  them  u  i\[if  place  in  civiji/.ed 
.'(-ciely.      I'arry  says  : 

••(  III  ilic  -JIMli  (.r  l'cl.rii;n-\.  l  )k<it<i(i:-  (ilie  1iii-.I.;iim1  ol'  ili-li- 
iik).  Willi  liis  wile,  came  on  lioard.  wh^ii  .-m  nccinit'iicc  \n,<U 
jiLicc,  \s  liicli.  as  ll  sIkiw  s  the  (li>p.is;ii,,|i  iit'ijic  r.-(|niin;iii \ .  ami 

r.|i((  i;illy  el  el I'tla>  |ili)>l   ill!. '1 1  i-eill   .111(1  illU  T.  ■>!  in;,'  iimnMl^ 

lliciii,   I    may  here   relale.      Seme  lime  lieliuc.   Il-linik.    \\\\n, 

lldlll    tlli<    sliperier    licalness    ;iii(l    cleaillillc-s    uilll    uliicli     >||,> 

jMrtiilllied    her   werk,    \\;i-;   liy    llii-,   tiinc    in    L,'|-c;it    |-c.|nc--t    ;is   a 

MMiii-lies^.  had  pi(Pini«.ed   lo  coxcr  liir  me  a  lilile  n.Hidel  ol   a. 

<  lii'ie.  and  had  in  liict  sent  it  to  me  hy  the  >er-emil  i<\'  mariiie<. 

'li"'i-h    I    had    not    riuhlly    iiiider>l(i()d   li-.);ii    ihe    lallcr    li-i.m 

which  ol'  the  \V(aMea   il  came.      r>elle\im;  thai  she  had  Tailed 

ill  her  |)romis(>.  1   now    (;i\ed  her  w  illi   it.   when  >lie  immedi- 

.•ilcl\    deleialcd    herx'll'   with   c(  )i  i>i(  lera  I  lie    warmth    and    seri- 

el-iie»,    IpIII    WiHloill     makill-     me    comMI-elieild    her    llieailillLr. 

1  lailinu    that  she  was  wasliiiL:  lier  word-.  n|i(in    me.  she  >,ii(| 

'I'l  niei-e  till  an  hoar  aherward.   when  the  sei-ireaiit  accideiit- 

.■i!i\  ci.mini:  into  the  (  aiiin,  she,  with   the  iitmo>t  c(anpo>ni'e. 

l>al  with  a  deci>ioii  of  nianner  peciili;ir  Im  liersclf,   took   Imid 

I't  li:s  man  to  eicM-e  liis  alleiili.ai.  and  then  lodkiii-  him  >te,id- 

/:i>llv  in  tlie  lace,  accir-ed  him  <<(  not  ha\iii-  raithliiHv  execii- 

'ill  hia-  conimi»ioii  to  me.      The  mistake  was  thus  instaiitlv 

e\|il;iiiied,  and   I  tlianked   Hi-liiik  tin' her  caaoe ;    hut   ii    i>  ini- 

P'i>-ihle  lor  me   to  (h-M  rilie   the   (|iiie|,  \et   proud  sati>racti(ai 

ili-|il:iye(l   in   her  comit.aiaiice  at   havini:  llins  cleared  herself 

tiiiiii  liie  imi)iitati(>n  of  a  hrcach  ol'  premi-M'." — P.   171),   pio. 

Hut  the  superim-  intelligence  of  this  oxtram-dinarv 
AVoman  was.  perhaps,  most  ap|);,reiil  in  th(«  readines:-; 
AMili  whi(di  she  was  made  to  coinprcdiend  the  mode  of 
cimiiniinieiitiiii:  a  kiiowdedi:('  of  the  uoomaphic  a!  outline 
el' the  sea-coast  of  the  country,  and  of  the  islands  that 
Avere  near  it.  The  lirst  attempt  of  tliis  kind  was  hy 
jilacim:  several  sheets  (d"  paper  heUn-i"  Hi-liiik.  and  draw"- 
iiiU  roimhiy  on  a  larui'  scale  an  ontliiio  of  the  laud  ahoiit 
Kcpiilso  Ihiy  and  liyon  Inlet,  and  (•(nitinnin^  it  ikumIi- 
«'rly  lo  the  present  winter  stalimi  ol"  the  ships.  The 
scale  heiiii:  lariic  it  was  necessary,  when  she  came  to 
ihc  eiid  (d'  one  piece  of  p.aper,  to  tjick  on  iniotlier,  till  ;;t 


!H, 


*  " 


'ill    i 


*>*:  , 


mo 


ARCTIC    VOYAGES. 


Iciiutli  ^hi'  lia<l  lillfd  ten  or  twrlvc  slicrls,  jiiiil  liiid  cuiu- 
])lrl<-Iy  U»i  sijlit  (if  W  liilcr  l>!iiii(l  at  liic  oilier  end  ot" 
llic  tiililf.  'Insd  cliiiits,  (tiic  iiiiide  l»v  lli}:liuk  I'or  ( '(im- 
iiijiiidcr  Lyon,  uru  i:i\fii  (in  tlir  voliiiiic)  on  a  rciliiccd 
scale  ;  and  very  extraordinary  tln'V  aic.  containinL'. 
tlioniili  with  nincl'.  eiror,  a  general  correct  view  ol'  tlic 
const,  and  ol"  its  coiiinnniication  with  thu  western  coa>l 
ottlie  I'olar  Sea.     I'arry  says  : 

'■  I'eliit:  extrenielv  de.-iioiis  of  (iI)taiiiinL'  more  cei'taiii  inliir- 
matioii  (III  this  pai't  n\'  tlic  >iil)je(t.  it  occuired  to  nie  to  alteiii[»l 
the  lliiiiL.'  witii  lliudiiik  OH  a  sniallei-  >cale,  Mich  as  iiiiLdit  eii:i- 
lile  lifi'  to  keep  ill  \ie\\,  at  the  ^iiiiie  time,  e\t'iv  part  ot  till' 
coa>t  to  lie  delineated.  'I'liis  attempt  was  also  much  iiivored 
li\  oiir  lia\iiii:  lalelv  oltlaiiied  the  llscjiiiniaiix  wni'ds  tlir  tin' 
iiiiir  cardinal  poiiiis  of  the  iioi  i/.on.  which  were,  theiTliiii'. 
])rev;ou.>lv  laid  down  liy  line-,  on  the  chart,  llavin^r,  in  addi- 
tion to  lhi>,  delineated  the  n.-uiil  pni-iimi  of  the  coast,  and 
ina(h'  ]|i:_dink  '  liox  tiie  coin|ias>'  repeatedly,  mi  as  to  render 
her  ipiite  familiar  witii  the  exact  relative  po^itilm  of  the  land> 
We  had  laid  down,  we  doired  her  to  complete  the  re>t,  and 
to  do  it  iiiihhir  (>mall),  w  hen,  w  ith  a  coinilenance  of  the  niost 
^'ia\e  attention  and  |ie(  uliar  intellii.'ence,  she  (h'ew  the  coa-t 
ot  the  continent  lie\  oiid  her  own  country,  as  1\  ini:  nearly  iioiili 
I'roni  Winter  l>laiid.  'J'he  mo>t  ini[iortaiit  ]iart  still  remained. 
and  it  would  ha\e  amused  an  nncoiiceriied  |ooker-on  to  haxe 
oli>erved  the  an\iet\  and  >uspeii,-e  depicted  on  the  couiile- 
liances  of  (/rr  part  of  the  uroiip  till  tli;>  was  acconipli>lied, 
lor  i[e\er  were  the  tiacini:-  ol  a  pencil  watihed  with  more 
eai'er  solicitude.  (  )iir  sur|irise  and  .-ali.-factiou  mav  theretiire. 
in  some  deu'ree.  he  imauiiied  when,  without  takini:  it  fioni 
the  paper,  lli^link  lir<tUL.dit  the  continental  coast  short  round 
to  the  we.-tward,  and  afterward  to  the  .'<..'>. \V.,  sn  as  to  cenie 
within  three  or  foin*  days'  joii rue v  ol  l{epul>e  l'>av.  'I' he  coun- 
try thus  situated  upon  the  chores  of  the  \\ C.-.tern  or  I'olar  S<  a 
is  called  J/,/,-nt//i'i%  and  is  inhiiliited  li\'  numerous  |]s(|iiiniaux  ; 
and  iialf  way  lielwceii  tliat  coast  and  lii"[iulso  i5av  lli;dink 
dirw  a  lake  of  coii-ideralile  .-i/e,  havini.'  smaU  streams  rii::- 
uiiiL:  from  it  to  llie  mm  on  each  >'n\v.  To  'his  lake  lier  coiiii- 
tryinen  are  annually  in  the  liahi.  of  resortiiiir  duriuir  the  >iini- 
iiier,  and  catch  there  hirire  iish  of  tlie  salmon  kind,  w  hile  en 
the  iianks  ai'e  tiiiind  .li'undaiice  of  ri^iinh'cr.  To  the  westwaiti 
of  Akkoolee.  as  tiir  as  they  can  see  from  the  hills,  w  liicli  .-he 
de-(  rihed  as  hi^di  ones,  nothim,'  can  he  di>tini:ni>lied  hut  one 
w  ide-extended  sea.  iieiiiLT  de>iinus  of  seeiim  \s  hetlier  IliLd'- 
Ilk  would  interfere  willi  \\  aj-'er  Kiver^  us  we  know  it  lu  e\i-l, 


liiid  ('(tiii- 
i'V  cud  ol' 

I'or  ( "oiM- 
ii  rcfliiccd 
[•oiitiiiiiiii;:. 
cw  oi"  till' 
stern  coa.->l 


•riaiii  iiif'nr- 

■  to  ;itt<'iii|)l 

iniLdit  cn.i- 

]);ii't  III'  llii' 

Ucll    iilVOITll 

ii'ds  tiif  till' 

■,    llirri'lniv, 

iui:,  ill  iidili- 

CllJISt,    Mild 

IS  ti)  ri'iidcr 

ul'  llic  liiiuU 

he  rot,  iiiid 

•  of  lllf  Uio-I 

\v  llir  collet 

iii'iirly  iiorili 

i-('iii;iiiii'd. 

r-oii  to  h;iM: 

die    coiilltf- 

■(iiii|ili.-lii'd, 

\\  idi   inori' 

■  llicrcrnic, 
iiLf  it  I'miii 
hurt  roiiuil 
;is  to  cniiii' 

'Jilt'  c'oiiii- 
1-  I'dhir  Si'.i 

s(|iiiiii;iii.\  ; 
tav  lli:diii!v 
trciiiis   nii:- 

■  her  cnllli- 

iir  till"  >iiiii- 
I,  \\liilo  on 
'  westward 

wITk  ll  >\\r 
H'd    llllt    one 

(Mlifi-  Uii:!'" 
V  it  lu  rNi-l, 


CAPTI.W    TAURV's    SKCOM)    V()VA(;K.  l.'H 

i  ■(|llcstrd.  her  to  colli  illUi'  die  coiHt-lilic  to  tlic  xilldiw  ai  il  oi' 
Akkooli'c,  wlirli  >lir  iliiliic'dialcly  dro|i[ird  llir  |iiU(i|,  and  .-aid 
bhr  kin'W   no  muro  alioiit  il." — 1'.   i:»r,   1!);;. 

W'ril  inii;lit  I'liny  cniisidcr  tliis  new  inrnniiiition,  tints 
li!i('\|)('ctt'i||y  (ipciioil  Id  liiin.  as  a  sal  isliictory  |»io-<|){'ct, 
(if  liis  soon  rounding  the  iioitlirastorii  point  of  Aiiiri'ica, 
wlfuli,  ill  point  (d' I'act.  lie  s(il)st'(|iifntly  di-covciTd  to  he. 
</.s,  and  irlit /■( ,  rcprfscntrd  hy  this  intoHiLiont  woman. 
To  lici"  aloiii'.  tlitTiddit'.  i>  the  merit  due  ol'  the  disrov- 
('i'\  ol'  the  extreme  iiorthein  lioimdiiiy  ol  Amei'iea.  ^ir. 
wlfu  11  is  the  same  tliiiiir.  the  iioitheastern  extremity  of 
that  continent,  whiidi  Captain  I'arry  is  told,  in  his  iii- 
sli'iictioiis.  to  he  the  ohject  next  to  the  fiiidiii^  a  passage 
til  nil  the  Atlantic  to  the  l*ac;lie.  It  is  true  t  hai  he  miuht, 
i>i  his  progress  aloiiy  the  coast  on  whi(di  he  was  ahoiit  to 
proceed,  liave  made  the  discovery,  hut  the  coiilidence  he 
placed  in  the  indication  he  had  acijuired  from  the  |-',s(pii- 
iiiaiix  lady  was  snllicient  to  induce  a  more  than  common 
alleiition  to  the  spot  where  it  received  I'ull  coiilirmatioii. 

Nor  were  the  powers  of  mind  in  this  superior  woman 
ci  111  fined  to  the  love  of  music,  or  draw  inu.  or  needle -work  ; 
evel'V  thilii;  she  nh.>erved  the  |)eople  of  the  ships  to  he 
employed  U|)oii  canuin  her  attention.  (  )iie  day,  accom- 
paiiiefl  hy  lier  Imshaiid  and  son,  they  paid  a  visit  to  the 
shi|)s,  and  the  season  for  departure  approaching,  hciiii;' 
desirous,  says  I'arry,  of  entertainiii^  them  widl,  alter 
providin^i  aliinidance  to  eat,  we  showed  them  every  lliin;^ 
aliout  the  slii[)  that  w f  thoii::lit  likely  to  amuse  them  : 

"Of  all  the  wonders  tliev  had  ever  witncs-ed  on  hoard, 
llicic  was  notliiii;.^  that  seenicd  io  impress  tliciii  so  stroiiLdv 
witli  a  M-iise  of  oiir  superiority  as  the  foiLre,  and  the  work 
wlrrli  the  armorer  pei-tiirimil  with  it.  'I'Ih'  wcldiiiLr  ot'  iwo 
jiii'crs  of  iron  es|iecially  excited  their  admiration,  and  I  mvcr 
.-:i\v  Uiulink  expre>s  so  imich  a-toni-hmeiit  at  any  ihiiiLr  lie. 
i'lrc  l'.\en  in  this  her  snpia'ior  l'oo'I  scn-e  was  oli-ei'\;ili|e, 
till"  it  was  evident  that  the  ulilit\'  of  what  she  >aw  uoIiilt  on 
was  what  forced  itselt'  upon  her  inind  ;  and  she  wa1<hed  ev- 
crv  stroke  ot'  the  hanmier,  and  each  hiast  ot  the  he i low-,  w  iih 
extreme  eau'i'ri less,  w  Idle  nnm hers  of  other  I  iscpiimanx  looked 
I'upidlv  on,  without  expressim:  the  smalle-t  (  iirio>iiy  or  Jn- 
!cre-l  ill  the  opcialioll.  except  1)\  de-iraiu'  to  iiave  some  .-pear 
l"'ad>  t;i.-hi<inei|  mit  hv  this  ine.nis."" — I'.  'J  I  U. 

ilor  allention  to  her  hushuiid,  who  was  tiikea  ill,  ^^a.a 


•4:  f 


» 
I 

r- 

l'' 


i 


! 

I 


-^ 


'(■, 


.V  I 


. 


I. 


I 

i 


1  'A2 


ARCTfC  vovAcr.s. 


vciT  striking:.  llilVlllL^  tnirctlicr  \vitli  liiiii.  Ikmmi  tlin-c 
llMiil's  oil  ;i  ^It'il'jc.  Mv.  l)Us!ili!ili.  wild  \v;is  iirtlic  |)iirly, 
t(t!(l  I'lii'iy  lli;it  irniliii'A  lull  sriircfly  tiiivcii  licr  ryes  iill' 
111')-  Inisl'iiiirrs  t'iiri'  llic  wlldlc  tillir,  liil'l  M'riiicij  !illii(i>| 
worn  out  witli  liitiuiic  iiiid  iiiixirty.  licr  liii>l»;iii(i  took 
}\  (lose  of  physic  loi-  the  first  time  in  his  life,  iiml  not 
Avitlioiit  iiiciit  (JrciMl  ;  •*  hcfoi'c  he  put  the  cii|)  to  his  lips 
with  one  lisind.  lie  held  on  hy  his  wife  with  the  otiicr. 
jnid  she  by  him  with  hoth  hers,  iis  thoiii.di  llicy  expcctcij 
ill!  explosion.  Hii:liiik  li;id  one  s:de  of  her  hair  loose  iiml 
jiow  loosened  the  o'hei"  iilso.  I'inicyiiii:  (  )kotook  to  he 
Averse:  for  even  in  this  scipicstcrcd  corner  ot'  the  iilolic 
dishevidcd  locks  liespcnk  mouniiii!.:."'  Hers.  Ii()we\('r. 
I'lirry  s:iys.  was  not  the  mere  senihlance  ot'  uricf.  for  siic 
was  really  niiich  distressed  throiiidieiit  the  <lay. 

It  is  pleasing  to  dwell  on  tlie>e  amialile  traits  of  cliar- 
Jictcr  in  one  whom  the  W(»rld  at  larm'  would  set  down. 
Iieiiii'^  an  Ksipiimanx.  as  little,  if  it  all.  removed  from  the 
oi'dinaiy  race  ofsa\ai:('s;  a'ld  it  rs  only  trom  such  a  man 
}is  l*ai'r\  and  his  a^^ociates  lliat  her  virtues,  and  her  im- 
iiccoi  lilt  ill  lie  st  re !  I  t:th  and  clearness  of  iinderstandin'i.  could 
liave  heeii  hroimht  out  and  duly  appreciated.  Would 
that,  by  makiii'i  pnlilicly  known  to  the  woiid  this  (U-- 
s|)ised  and  persecuted  race  (for  nothiiiij:  short  of  pcr- 
secnlioii  coiiid  have  driven  them  to  take  up  tlieii'  abode 
in  these  extreme  parts  of  the  iilobe.  amid  ice  and  ^iiow. 
>vhere  worse  than  ('immerian  dtu'kness  dwells  for  hall 
the  year)  —  would  that  they  iiiii:ht  be  looked  upon  more 
<i('iierally  than  they  are  as  rational  beings,  ami  treateij 
accordiiiLily .  Theirs,  it  must  be  confessed,  is  a  ino-i 
crind  and  wi'etched  lot.  lor  whom  any  permanent  I'elirf 
nppears  to  be  hopeless,  siirrouiideil  as  they  are  in  evei'y 
])ait  of  the  coast-land  boundiuL:  tlie  dreary  Polar  Sea— 
iii  Asia,  Kurope.  and  America — and  driven  as  lliey  an' 
into  by-creeks  and  corners,  or  what  is  still  worse,  by  the 
savaue  Indians  of  the  northern  parts  of  America,  to  the 
very  shores  of  that  sea — the  lll'iniii  Tliuh  of  all  civili- 
'/ation — what  liope.  then,  is  there  that  any  chauire  oi- 
any  ex<'rtioii  ot'  humane  and  well-disposed  communitie-. 
can  alfonl  them  relict"  from  a  slate  of  pei'ptMnal  oj)prc  - 
,sioii.  misery,  and  star\ation  .' 

At  the  r^ume  tiiue  tliat  rarry  dwells  with  {)lea.sure  eu 


'Oil    tlirrc 
lie  parly. 

■   i'\('S  oil 
I'll    iillllo-1 

hand  took 
',  and  iiiit 
til  his  rip-- 
lie   otlit-r. 
cxpcfttMl 
lodsc.  and 
ook    tn    III' 
'  the  ulnli'' 
linwfvcr. 
icl'.  tofslic 
y. 

Is  (}['  cliar- 
st't  down. 

I    tVolll   till' 

n(di  a  man 
\u\  lu'f  iin- 
diii'i,  ('((uld 
1.  Would 
d  this  (\r- 
)Vt  of  por- 
'loir  al)od(' 

nid  ^llo^v. 

s  t'oi-  half 

ipoll   innic 

id   troatt'd 
is   a   uiosi 
rut  i-olict" 
(•  in  every 
)lar  Sea  -- 
s   they  ai'c 
rse,  l)y  the 
ica.  to  llie 
f  all  civili- 
(dianire  III' 
luniunilie-; 
ial  o|)pi'e  - 

)leasure  I'U 


I    I 


cAi'T.\i\  rAiiRvs  sr.roM)  \fiv\(;[:.       l;];{ 

llie  virlnes  and  tlie  superior  understanding:  of  Hi-liuk.  he 
i>  not  lilind  to  hei-  ladings,  tlie  rhiel"  of  w  hieh  appears 
]n  he  vanity  (to  \vhi(di  he  lias  himself  not  a  lillle  conli'ih- 
lited).  sidlishiM'ss,  iiiid  in^'ratitiide.  ••  I  am  eonipidled  to 
;iikiio\vledi';e.'"  lie  says,  "that  in  proportion  as  the  sn- 
pevior  uiider.>taiidini:  ol'tiiis  e\i  ra ordinary  \s oin  iii  hecana^ 
more  and  moi'e  de\eloped.  her  head  {\'i>y  what  female 
liciiil  is  inditi'ereiit  1(»  praiso  ?)  lieL;aii  to  he  turned  with 
ihc  ::eneial  iitteiition  and  niiiiiheriess  presents  ^||.•  re- 
ceived." Slie  I'td'llsed.  it  seems,  on  the  e\c  ol"  partiiii:. 
( 'oniniaiider  Lyon's  reipiest  to  lier  to  make  for  him  n 
lew  little  models  of  their  (dothiiiL: :  "  whitdi."  I'arry  oh- 
serves.  "  shows  in  a  stroiii:  li^ht  that  deep-rooted  se  lish- 
nexs  tlijit,  ill  liiimherless  instances,  detiacted  from  tlio 
aniiahiiity  of  her  disposition." 

It  is  not  (piite  clear,  from  wliat  occurred  on  the  ila\' 
that  ( )kotook  and  llii;liuk  came  on  hoard  to  pay  their  la-- 1 
visit,  that  I'arry  did  not  unintentionally  olteiid  the  pride 
of  the  latter.  I  le  says  :"  As  t  lie.se  ^ood  j'olks  foimd  ihein- 
sehes  perlectly  at  home  in  my  cahin.  I  was  ii>ually  in 
the  hahit  of  conlinuini:  my  occupations  when  they  wer(f 
there  without  feint:  distmhed  hy  them.  I'eini:  tiow  eii- 
i;a::ed  in  ^vritilu,  my  attention  was  unexpectedly  direct- 
ed toward  them  hy  l!i'.:liuk's  suddenly  startin;:  I'rom  her 
seat,  iiioviiii:  (piickly  toward  the  door,  and,  without  sav- 
in:: a  W(jrd  eitliev  to  me  or  any  ot"  the  ollicers  present, 
liasieiiiii<:  directly  on  deck.  ()kotook.  indeed,  as  lie  tol- 
lowed  her  out  id"  the  cahin,  turned  round  and  said  '  (xood- 
hy  ;"  and.  without  i:ivin'_:  us  time  .o  return  the  compli- 
ineiit.  tliey  hoth  hurried  out  of  the  ship,  leaviiii:  us  in 
some  astoiiishmeiil  at  this  siii<:ular  leave-taking."  It  is 
not  iiniiatiiral  to  suppose  tliat.  afler  so  lon^^  and  friendly 
an  intercourse,  tiiey  should,  on  this  particular  visit,  feel 
tliemseKcs  somewlmt  iie::lected;  it  could  hardly  he  ex- 
pected tliat  they  should  not  feed,  on  siadi  an  occasion,  an 
ajipareiit  indill'erence  so  contrary  to  the  uiiilorm  atten- 
tion and  kindness  tiiey  liad  receiveih  Hut  l*arry  foiiiid 
i!  change  liad  taken  jilace  in  lli::rutk's  comluct,  and  e\- 
))laiiis  the  causes  which  yave  rise  to  it. 

••  I  am,  however,  conii>elled  1o  ackiiowled'jfc  that  the  siipe- 
rioi'  dercncv"  and  even  modrst\  ot  her  heliavioi-  li:id  cum- 
biiiej,  with  her  intellectual  (jnalities,  to  rai>e  her  in  our  e.-li- 

31 


I     . 


V) 


i 


!         i 


11      : 

I ' ' 


I'rv 


iU^    i 


i:u 


ARCTIC    VOVA<;i:<:. 


Ilfltioil   I'll'  ;i1iipVi>  licr   rnin|i:nil<i|is  ;    ;iiiil    I    (iflrll   Ihmi'iI   ntl;i  TM 

•  •\|iiT>s.  \\  li.il  I  cniilil  Mill  liiit  ic'iri'  ill.  lliiil  till-  liiL;liill\  ;ilii;ic'. 
Ill    ;i|l    llic    I  ;>(|l|ilii:il|\    NSdlllcil.    lli;il    killil    <il    r('.-|H(t    wmild   In- 

•  Milcrl.imrd  whiili  |iin(|r>lv  ill  il  tilll.'llr  lirvcr  lulls  In  (•(Hii- 
)ii;iiiil  ill  our  -.I'V.  'i'liiis  ri'L.iiilrd.  ^-Iic  IkmI  ;iI\\;i\s  Imtu  Iitc- 
Iv  iiiliiiitlrd  iiilci  llii-  >lii|i-.  ;lif  i|ii;irtrr-m.i>ti'is  :il  llic  :;;iil  i.'\\  ,■lV 
llt■\l•|■  lliiiiUiliu  111  II  ^ll-ill^  tilt  i;i  111  r  til  llir  '  \\  i>i'  WnK^ail,'  IH 
llicv  ("illi'd  lirr.  \\  iii'iii'v  cr  ;iiiv  cxiil.iiiHlinii  \\;is  iic(('>>;ny 
lictw  fi'ii  llir  r>i|niiii;ni\  iiiid  lis.  liiLiliiilx  w.is  sent  tin-.  i|iilii> 
;is  ;iii  iiiti'rprflcr ;  iiiriwtii;iliiiii  w.is  cliirlly  nlitiiiiicd  tliiniiJi 
lici".  iiiid  >\\<'  tliiis  rniiiid  liriM'it'  risiiii,'  iiitn  ;i  d»':.'rt'('  lA  fou-i'- 
(|ili'iicc  III  \\lii(li.  Iiiil  tiir  lis.  >|ic  ciiuld  iirvif  li:i\c  iiltiiiiHil. 
It  iii.iv  iml,  tlirii'tdi'f.  lie  \\  lUidt'rcd  ill  if  slir  litTiiinc  u'iddv 
w  illi  iicr  cMillMlitiii.  ;i>>iimiii^'  iiirs  w  liicli,  iIuhil-Ii  iiiHiiilcIv  d'- 
\(  r>iii(d  ill  llirir  ii|icr.itiHii,  ;ni  mdiii^'  to  <iniimsl;iiicfs.  prr- 
li;iji>  i!lii\  ci'Milly  iillciid  :i  tmi  Mlildcii  il((r»iii|i  (ifj^imd  |i>i- 
lUlu'  ill  t'MTV  (  Ilild  111'  AiLllll  tVdlll  till'  r.(|li;iliir  to  liic  I'nlr--. 
'rill'  riiii>i'i|iii'iirr  \\;is.  Ili-liuk  \\  .is  miihi  >|iiiili'd;  ciHL^idrii  d 
lu'i"  iiiliiii->iiiii  iiilii  till-  ships,  iiiid  iimst  nt'  llu'  raliiiis,  im  Inii- 
i:iM'  as  ail  iiidiil::rnrr.  imt  a  riulit  ;  n'asrd  tn  rrliini  lln'  >li;,li;- 
rst  ac'UiiiiwiciL'iiiriit  liir  imy  kiiidiir>s  nr  |)i'r.>i'iits ;  iiriMum 
listless  and  iii;i1triiti\i'  in  iiiira\  rliiii:  llir  inraiiiiiu'  nlniir  ijiii- 
lidns.  and  can-li'ss  whrllirr  lirr  answrrs  riiii\r\i'd  tin'  inlin- 
iiiatioii  \vi'  di'>iri'il.  In  >inii't.  Ili;:liuk  in  r'riniiary  and  Mi- 
i;liuk  in  April  wi-ri' ciiiitr>M'illy  vrry  dilli'ii-nt  |)cisiiiis ;  and  it. 
was  at  last  ainn>ini,'  In  rrcnllrrt,  tliiiiii:li  mil  vrry  ra>\  tn  prr- 
Miaili'  line's  M'lt".  liiat  tin-  wuinan  who  nnw  sat  drnnircK  in  a 
«liair.  Ml  runlidi'iilU  rxpci'tiiiLr  llir  nnliri'  iil'tlinsi'  arniiiid  lirr. 
and  sill'  will)  had  at  lli>t.  with  raLirr  and  wild  drliuht.  av-.i>t- 
I'd  in  cnttin;,'  snnw  lor  lln-  luiildiiiu'  of  a  lint,  and  with  tlio 
liopo  of'  ohtaininL:  a  siin^lr  noodli',  wrio  aitiuilly  one  and  tlu^ 
sanii-  indlvidnal."— r.  -Jilt.  -J-JO. 

Iliuliiik  was  uiKpu'stiuiialily  iiltrfcd  and  sjioilcd.  and  to 
Captain  I'aiTV  and  liis  associatos  was  owiin;  llif  iiirta- 
iiiorpliosis  :  liiit  it  was  a  iiatiii'al  ('(tiiscipiciicc.  and  ciitild 
not  1)1'  otlu'fwisi' ;  nor  docs  tlu>  (diaiiu.'  in  lici-  ('(Midiirt 
detract  in  any  dcLircc  t'loiii  tliiit  (|ni('t,  ofdiMJy.  and  (dicci-- 
liil  heliasior  wliii'li  prevailed  almost  niiivcrsally  aiiioiii^ 
tJie  trihe  to  wliicli  she  heloiiiicd. 

( )l'llie  ])eculiar  liahils.  the  dis|)ositioii.  the  i;«Mi(>ral  char- 
iU'tcr.  the  resources  and  einployineiits.  and  the  state  ot" 
.<;ociety  iuiioiii:  lliese  poor  creatures,  doonied  to  consiiiiKi 
llieir  lives  in  this  coiintry.  tlie  most  dreary  and  disniai, 
IMTJiiips.  in  tlie  whole  world.  Tarry  has  j^iveii  a  tull  ac- 
count in  hi.'^  coni'linling  chaph'r.     Here,   huwevor,  the 


ii'il  uti.i  |•^ 
ink  :ilii;ii'. 
w  mild  111- 

•i  111  cnlil- 
lircll  llti'- 

j^;inj;\\  iiy 
ii|;^;ili.'  ;n 
lic(f»;iiy 
liii'.  i|iiilt> 
I   tlinniJi 

III'    COIIsi'. 

iill;iiui'il. 
iiif  L;iil(lv 
iiiilcly  il- 

IICO,     |M1- 

;^uii(l  liii- 
lli.-  r.il.'^. 
nli-^ulrii  il 
l<.  Mil  li'll- 
ihr  >li:,li:- 
;    lirciiiiii' 

dill'   (|I1C:.- 

llll'  illtill-- 
V  1111(1  Mi- 
lls ;  iiiiii  it, 

s\-   til   |irl'- 

ircU   ill  11 

iiiiiul  licr, 

lit.  ;i^>;^t- 

willi    the 

('    Mini    till' 

(I.  illli!  to 
W  liirta- 
11(1  ('(iiilil 
foiiiliict 
ill  clicrr- 
V  iUMoiig 

fill  c'laf- 

StiltC    lit" 
•OIISlllllO 

I  disniiil, 
I  tiill  ac- 
'ver,  the 


(MTAiv  rAuiiv'rf  sixoM)  \()V.\(;i:.        1,*{5 

iMciifrriuN'^  only  will  Itc  iiiciilioiinl.  As  it,  i^ciicrjil  (iiio, 
It  iiiav  III'  si  a  I  I'll  I  lial.  iliiiliiu  I  lit'  iiioiillis  nf  Manli,  ,\|»iil, 
mill  ,N|a_\,  wlii'ii  llii'V  tli'priiil  niii->lly  mi  lli.'  caiitiiii'  of 
till'  M'al  anil  tin-  wiilnis.  wliic  li  is  iillfiiilcd  with  tli«>  ;:iTat- 
csl  (lillinilly  and  w  alchriilncss  on  tlif  ice,  ihc  wlmlo 
tnlii'  may  lie  said  In  lir  literally   in  a  sti»ic  n\'  slar\ali(>ii. 

Mail  llicy  not.  iiidrrd,  on  many  occasiuiis,  I n  Mipiilird 

rrnin  till'  ships,  iiumlicrs  uj'  tlicm  miisi  midoiihtrdlv 
liavi'  pciishi'd  nl"  limi::<'r.  Ml  llif  lncad  diisl  was  »•(»!- 
Ii'clfd  and  pifsci'vcd  lor  tlioir  use;  yet,  in  thr  li('ii.dit  of 
tlit'ir  dislfcss.  they  iippcaird  iicnci'  to  Itc  deprived  of  that 
liajipy  and  cheerriil  tempei-  of  mind,  and  thai  <:ood  hii- 
iiiiir  whieli  ihey  iialiifally  possessed,  aiid  preserved,  eveu 
wlieii  severely  pinched  hy  liiiic:er  and  cold,  and  wholly 
deprived,  loi' days  louelher.  ol'  jood,  and  liL;ht,  and  I'liel, 
prnatioiis  to  which  they  were  constantly  lirihle.  liiil  ixi 
calamity  of  this  kind,  iVeipienlly  as  it  occurs,  lias  lim::lit, 
tlicm  to  he  |)rovideiit.  'Ihey  live  hiit  tVom  day  l(»  diiN'  : 
vvilli  them  it  is  always  a  i'east  or  a  lamine  ;  ihey  will  eat. 
Ml  any  period  of  the  day  when  \icliials  are  to  he  had, 
fiiiiii  live  to  eii^lil  pounds  of  animid  tood.  l'"rom  .May  to 
(  »(lolier.  wlieii  the  minatory  animals  have  arrived  from 
till-  southward—  llie  miisk-o\,  the  reindeer,  the  hares, 
I  lie  N\vaii<,  and  vr  ions  other  lit  wis  and  (piadriipeds  ihey 
;!fe  alile  to  procure  a  ^ooil  supply  of  fitud  ;  and  those  fcYV 
who  add  friiualily  lo  their  industry,  <'oiitrive  to  pound 
till'  llesh  with  the  fat  of  the  animal,  and  make  a  little  of 
what  they  call  jk  niiii'nuni,  for  preservation  a  compoiinil 
well  known  lo  (tnr  Arctic  voyaiiers.  In  the  earl\'  part 
lit'  April,  some  of  the  Irilic  that  freipieiited  the  XViiiter 
Isla'id  he^ati  to  miiirate  from  the  seashore  to  the  west- 
Avaid  ill  (piesf  of  food  ;  and  the  (diaii^ie  of  scene  in  their 
oiice  happy  village,  and  more  especially  in  their  clean 
and  comfortahle  snow  huts  while  new,  is  thus  descrilied : 

■•  (  III  L'liliu:  out  lo  the  vIlliiL'c,  we  Iniiiiil  one  li;ilt  ol  tlie  pco- 
]i|"  liiid  i|iiined  llicir  late  liaiiitatimis,  takiiiL'  willi  tliem  ev- 
(  TV  article  of  their  piit|ici'tv.  and  had  iioiie  over  the  ice,  wo 
l;!ii'\v  nut  where,  in  ipic-l  of  niore  ahiiiidaiit  food.  'I'hcj 
wii'trlieil  appearance  which  the  interior  of  the  lints  now  pre- 
~i'ii1ed  hatlles  all  description.  In  each  i\{  the  laru'er  ones 
Miiiic  (if  ilic  ;i|)ariiiiciit>  were  either  w  holly  or  in  jtart  de-ert- 
cd.  the   very  .--uow  wiiich  cunipo.sed  tlie  hods  and  tirephicea 


.1  ■'! 


I  I 


:li 


,  I 


«  » 


M  ( 


:'*   1 


/  • .--  i^ 


ino 


ARCTIC   VOYA(; ?:.■=«. 


liiiviiii:  l)f<M  fiiniftl  u;i,  that  iki  aiticlc  lul^lit  !»•  l<'t'i  lifhiml. 
I^vcii  tin-  Itaii-  Willis,  wliiisc  nriL'iiial  cdlnr  was  .-.cairfly  pcr- 
('(■|itilili>  titi-  laiii|il(la('U,  MdihI,  ami  ntlifi'  lillli,  wen*  unt  left 
|it  riccl,  iiiiL'i'  liolfs  liaviiiL'  Immmi  iiiadf  in  the  biili-s  ami  nmls 
ilii"  till'  cmiviMiiciicr  lit  liauiliiiu'  "nt  tin-  ^.mmhIs  and  cliatttj-. 
Tilt'  siulit  fit'  a  (Ifscilfil  lialiitaliini  is  at  all  tiiin's  calriilalrtl 
lo  rxiitc  ill  tlir  iiiiml  a  snisatinii  ol  (lirariiirss  ami  »lt's<ilatinii, 
<'s|ic(iallv  when  wr  have  lati'ly  >riMi  it  tilled  with  tliccrtid 
iiilialiitaiits  ;  liiit  the  Ifcliii;.'  is  even  lit'i;,'lilrm'd  latlirr  than 
(iiiiiiiiisli(Ml  wlicii  a  small  |i)ii'tiiiii  dl  iIicm'  iiilialiitauls  I'l'inuin 
hrliiiid  tu  ciidiiri'  llif  wiftclirdmv-s  wliicli  siicli  a  scfiir  ex- 
liil)its.  'I'liis  was  now  tin-  ca^i'  at  tin-  village,  wlicit',  iIhmiliIi 
tlic  iTiiiaiiiiiii.'  tenants  tit  cai'li  lint  had  cninliiiicd  to  oci  njiy 
(iiir  lit'  till-  apartinriils,  a  iircat  |iait  nl'  tin-  lird-jilacis  wrn* 
still  liari',  and  tin-  wind  and  diltl  lilnwinu'  in  thrnnLih  tlii' 
hull's  which  thry  had  imt  yrt  laUi'ii  llir  tiimMi'  to  stup  n|(. 
Till' iild  man  11  iUUi'iira  and  his  w  iti- nccniiii'd  a  lint  1> .  tinnn- 
hi'lvrs,  w  ilhiiiil  an\  laiii|>  iir  a  sinL'Ii' uniiri' nt  iiU'at  lirlniiL'iiii; 
to  tla'iii  ;  wirilr  tlnri'  small  skin>,  mi  wliirh  tin-  tin'mrr  was 
lyiiii:,  wiTc  all  that  tliry  |iii»('ssrd  in  ihr  way  ut'  lilanki'ts. 
I  jinii  till'  wlidlr,  I  nr\rr  liclirld  a  liiiiri'  misfl'alilr  ^  prclailc, 
and  it  st'i'iiird  a  I'liarity  \n  hupi'  that  a  viulriit  and  riiii.--tant, 
<'iiiit.di  with  wliiili  till'  old  man  was  atHIrtrd  wimld  spmlily 
coiiihinr  with  his  a^'i'  and  inliiiuitirs  tu  irlrasi-  him  rnnii  his 
jtii'sciit  siiU'i'rinirs.  Yrt  in  tlir  midst  of  all  this  hr  was  I'vrii 
cliriM't'iil,  iKir  was  thi'i'i-  a  t;liH>mv  ciinntriiam.'i'  to  lie  smi  at 
Ihr  village."— 1*.  -JOi,  '^U:}." 

TlifM-0  is  soiMctliiiiji  very  oxtraordinaiy,  as  it  would 
appear,  in  tlu)  j)liysi(iil  ('(iiistitiitioii  otthese  jjt'ople.  At 
tliis  inomeiit,  wlicii  in  vvaiit  ot"  every  kiiid  of  siiljsisteuce, 
and  kept  alivi'  by  tlu!  distrihntion  of  liread-tliist.  on  a 
liiiit  t'loni  till!  conunaiider  that  in;  wished  the  females 
to  let  liinMvitnoss  some  of  their  jiames,  the  proposal  was 
scarcely  mado  hefoi'e  I'very  female  that  was  h-ft  in  tho 
villai^e.  not  exceptiiiij;  even  the  oldest  of  them,  joined  in 
the  perfoi-mance  of  siliiiinu  and  in  never-ceasiiiii  ni'-rri- 
nieiit  and  lain,diter.  "  Neithei-  the  want  of  foo(i  and  fu- 
el, nor  the  inicertain  |)r()spect  of  ohtainiiii;  any  tliat  iiii.dit. 
were  sufficient  to  deprive  tliese  ])oor  creatures  of  that 
clieerfulness  tind  jrood  Imnior  which  it  scmmiis  at  all  times 
their  j)(>cnliar  happiness  to  enjoy."  'I'lieir  hilarity  was 
not  disturbed  tliis  niulit.  for  |)ositi\e  intellii:ence  arrived 
irom  the  ice  that  two  walruses  had  been  taken.  "  If,'' 
says  Pariy,  "  the  women  were  only  cheerful  Ijofore, 
they  were  now  ubselut*;Iy  frantic.'' 


•t'l  lu'liiutj, 
iici'ly  |Mr- 
VI'  iiul  Itft 
>  iinii  I'iMil's 

I  cllJlltfls. 
C.-lll'lilKll'il 

li'siiliitiuii, 
\i  clircit'iil 
tlhiT  tliiiii 
Ills  n-iiiiiiu 

,   SCt'llf  I'X- 

rv,  tlii)iij.'U 

to  UC(I1|I\' 
llCfS    S\<|r 

foriu'li  the 
(I  stop  lljl. 
it  1>  ,•  tllt'Ml- 

llf|Olll.'illL,' 

if.'iirr  was 
lilimki'ts. 

^  Itfi'tacic, 
(I    collslJIIlt, 

I  s|  let '(lily 

II  iVniM  Ins 
•  was  even 
!)(>  scf'ii  at 


it  wouM 

iiple.     At 

isistt'iii'c, 

1st,  on  ii 

t'l'iiialt's 

)osill  WilS 

ft  ill  tlio 
joined  ill 
lii  iii'Tri- 
1  and  t'li- 
iiit  iiiiilit, 
s  ot"  tllilt 
all  tinu's 
rity  was 

aiiivinl 
"  IIV 

liolore, 


CAI'TAIN    I'AIlUv'd    SJiCU.VU    V()VA(;i:.  I.*i7 

Till"  otid  of  May  liavinii  ai'iivcd.  and  tlir  Ms(|niiManX 
liriii^  ready  to  dep.irt  to  the  nttit  li\\  ai  d.  tin'  connnaniler 
liiaile  tiieni  w  liat  they  considered  a  llHist  \alind)le  pres- 
ent, wliieli  prodined  in  liie  women  sneli  innnoderate  fits 
nl'  Ian  jliter  as  to  anionnt  almost  to  hysterics,  w  Inch  w  ero 
MIfceeded  Ity  a  llood  of  tears.  The  men  seemed  tliank- 
I'ld.  tlioiiiih  less  noisy  in  their  ii(knowled:;nM'nts.  ••  (  »n 
1;il\iiiii  their  departnre,"  says  j'arry,  "these  ^ood-lin- 
liiori'd  and  e\  er-cheerlid  people  ^|-eete(l  lis  with  threo 
cheers  in  tin*  true  Kahloona  (ilniilish)  style." 

Little  (leservin<r  ot"  notice  occnrre(|  till  the  middle  of 
.lime,  when  the  expedition  also  was  preparing  to  depart 
to  the  norlhwanl.  hy  cnttiliL'  out  the  <^.'.\\.a  from  the 
ice.  takiiiii  down  the  tents  and  the  oi(ser\  atorv,  and  em- 
liaikiii'j;  the  instrnments;  hiit,  liefore  leavinu  Winter 
Ulaiid.  alter  a  residence  of  niin-  months,  ('ominaiider 
I'arry  states,  '•  it  becomes  my  painful  duty  to  turn  t'roin 
these  hiisy  occupations,  wlieie  animation,  (diceifnliiess, 
ami  hope  prevailed,  to  the  sad  iind  solenm  sc(;iies  of 
sickness  and  of  deatil,  for  witil  Ixttll  ol  these  did  it  please 
ilie  Almiiihty  to  visit  us  at  this  i)eriod."  Two  seamen, 
."siiiiter  and  lleid.  in  Parry's  ship,  died:  and  (tue,  Priii- 
^'Ic.  in  Lyon's.  They  were  hiirieil  in  the  same  ::rave; 
the  t'ormer  willi  a  handsome  tomb  of  stone  and  natrtar 
o\er  it.  and  a  slab  of  tln^  same  kind,  with  a  suitable  in- 
.scription,  over  the  latter. 

It  was  not  till  the  "Jd  of  .)  uly  that  the  sliips  wero 
inoved  (»ut  ot"  their  winli-r's  dock,  and  they  put  to  sea  on 
the  rtli  with  no  very  tiivorable  auspices  ot"  what  was  to 
licliill  them  in  their  proi^ress  to  the  lutrthwarck  aloiiii  thi'- 
e, Intern  coast  of  N(a"th  America.  The  dangers  that 
threatened  them  at  stiirtin^  will  bo  seen  from  Command- 
er Lyon's  re|)ort : 

■■  The  llodd  tide  cnniiMi::  down  loaded  with  a  more  than  or- 
(liiiiiry  tiuautity  of  ice,  pressed  the  ship  very  niiicii  Itetween 
six  and  seven  A.M..  and  rendereil  it  necessary  to  nni  out  the 
stri'MMi  cable,  in  additi(»n  to  the  hawsers  wliicli  were  liist  to 
the  land  ice.  'fliis  was  scarcely  ai'coni])li>lied  when  a  viMV 
lieavvand  extensive  tloe  took  the  sliip  on  her  hroa(l>iile.  and, 
lii'iu;,'  backed  bv  another  larire  body  of  ice.  gradually  lil'led 
her  .-lern  as  if  by  the  action  (»fa  wedLre.  The  weiirht,  every 
inoment  increasini:,  oblii:<'d  us  to  veer  on  the  liaw>ers.  w  hn.-o 
fricliuju  wud  no  threat  as  nearly  to  cul  ihruui^di  the  blu-heud.s, 

U  2 


\\\ 


n!  ) 


<l . 


i 


'       .y!    I' 


:  i;l 


'■ ,  ll 


'         1 

f  ' 


*  k 


VAH 


AHCTIC   vova(;k-. 


nil 
fur 


(1    llltillKltrlv    '•t^f    lln'ir 


1  (HI   lire 


It  1li;it    il    lifciiiiic    i"<-i|ii!>iti 


I  "'"I 


lit'  t<i  iiltciid   witii   l)ii(l\<'ts  (if  water.      The   uic-mii 


IIS  ill  Iriiu'lli  1ii(»  |i!i\\  (1 1'lil  lid-  rcsisliiiicc.  ami  llif  ^tci-.iii 


1  'li- 


bit', witli  twi)  six  iiiid  line  ti\  (•  iiicli  liiiu  .-crs,  went  at  llic  mhiim 
Jiiniiiciit.  'I'lii't'c  (itliri's  .-(11)11  t'dlluw  I'll.  TIk"  sea  Was  too  fiijl 
of  ice  Ik  allow  tlic  >lii|)  to  (li'i\(',  and  tin'  mily  uay  liy  w.ii'l. 
she  (Kid  i  xicld  t(t  till'  (•iiMiiiiniis  wc'iLilit  wliicli  (iiiproscd  lirr 
was  Itv  lea  II  ill  LT  (ivrr  tlir  land -ice,  wliilc  licr  .-tciii.  at  the  >aiiii' 
lime,  w.ts  ciitiif'lv  lilted  nunc  than  live  I'eet  (inl  ol'  tlie  watir. 
'I'lie  Ikwi'I'  deck  lieains  iimw  ci piii|>lained  very  iiiMcli,  and  tl  .• 
wlmle  t'raine  ol'tlie  sii:|)  underwent  a  trial  wliicli  wmdd  lia\e 
jiroM'd  fatal  tn  aiiv  less  streiiLMlieiied  vessel.  At  tliis  in<iiii''iit: 
llie  rudder  was  nnliuiiL.'  with  a  sudden  jeri^.  which  liiMke  ii|t 
t'le  rndder  ca-e  and  sti'nck  the  driver  linimi  with  ^'i'eat  ii>rce. 
Ill  this  state  1  made  kiiuwii  our  sitiiatinii  l>y  telei:ra|>li,  as  f 
elearlv  s;ivv  that,  in  the  event  iif  ainither  tine  liackini:  the  one 
\viii(  h  lifted  us,  the  .-hiii  inn.-t  inev  iialilv  turn  over,  or  part  in 
7iii([-lii|i>.  '1  lie  ]>r('ssiire  which  had  heeii  mi  daiiLrerons  at 
leiiL'th  proved  oiir  I'l  ieiid.  for  hv  its  increa-iiiLf  weight  the  lloe 
on  which  we  were  Ikm-iic  liiir>t  upward,  iiiiahle  to  resi>t  its 
force.  The  ship  ri;dited,  and.  a  .-mall  slack  opeiiiiiL'  in  the 
water,  di  ov  (•  several  miles  to  the  southward  he  fore  she  con  Id 
lie  a.'aiii  si^ciired  to  i:('t  the  rndder  liniiL' ;  (•ircnmslances 
niiicli  to  lie  rcLMctted  at  the  moment,  as  oiir  |ieople  had  lieeii 
einploved  with  Itnl  little  intermission  for  three  davs  and 
iii_'l:l-.  atleiidini;  to  the  .-al'etv  of  the  slii[»  in  this  daiiL'erons 

tideway." — r.  ■::>:). 

Tile  l-'iirv  liad  almost  as  iinrfow  an  (\sea])('  as  tlie 
llecla.  The  iie\t  day  the  I'' iiry  tof  an  hour  nr  two  was 
cDiitiiiiially  L;ra/,eil.  and  sometimes  heeled  over,  hv  a  de- 
cree of  pre-siire  wliicli.  under  other  (.•ilX'iliii.stalices, 
^\<nll(l  not  have  heen  n  nioileiate  one. 

"  A  little  liel'oi'e  l|oir,|.  a  lieavy  tine,  Millie  miles  ill  li'liL'th, 
lieiiiL'  proliahly  a  p.irt  ot'that  lately  detached  "rom  the  .-hore. 
<'aine  drivliiL.''  down  tii-t  toward  ns.  Lriviiii,'  ns  serious  reason 
III  ap|irelii'nil  some  more  fatal  cata-trophe  thiiii  aiiv  we  had 
yet  encountered.  In  a  few  miniites  it  c.inie  in  contact,  at  th(» 
rate  of  a  mile  and  a  halt  an  hour,  with  a  point  of  the  land-i(e 
|elt  the  precedini:  iii::lit  liy  its  own  separation,  hreakiiii:  if  np 
w  ilh  a  irenieiidoiis  cra.-li.  and  forcimr  immlierless  imnieii-" 
iiias>es.  peiliap-  many  tons  in  weii;lit.  to  the  liei-ht  ot'  lit'tv  or 
."-ixtv  teet.  Iroiii  whence  tliev  aL'iiii  rolled  down  on  the  inner 
or  land  side,  and  were  ipiicklv  -in'ceeded  liv  a  fre-li  snpplv. 
While  we  were  ohlii^ed  to  lie  (piiel  spectators  of  this  i^raiid 
hut  teiTilic  sii;ht,  beiiiir  williiu  live  or  .si.\  huudrt.'tl  yards  of 


'y%'^ 


li 


'     l'CI|ll!^l1i' 

•  |)ic~-iiri' 
.-ti'c.iMi  '  :i 

t  llic  >aiJiM 
I  MS  tin  I  lull 
liv  \\  .li'!, 
rc>scil  lii'i- 
t  tin-  saiiH' 
llir  wain-. 
Ii.  aii.l  tL- 
■  nulil  lia\i' 
i>  iDMiiiiiit 

I  I>i-.ik<-  ii|) 
li'cal  1(1  ire. 

rrapli,  as  f 

111,'  tlir  iilir 

,  or  pai't  ill 

llt.'CI'()!IS    Ml, 

'lit  thftliH- 

II  resist  its 
liiii;  ill  the 

'   >llC   COIlIll 

•iiiiistaiicfs 

•  liad  hfcii 
(lays  and 

(laiiL'f'niiH 

('  as  tli<^ 
two  was 
liy  ii  <lt'- 

iistaiiccs, 

ni  Iciiu'tli, 

IK.'   >I|01C, 

lis  reason 

we  iiad 

ict.  at  tlio 

laiid-i(t> 

\IIil:  it  ii|t 

iimiH'ii-'^ 

111'  I'lj'tv  or 

llir  iiiiiiT 

1    sii|)|ily. 

lis  L'raiid 

\  ards  (jf 


CAl'TAIX    TAIIRV  rf    SECOXD    VOYA(.n. 


131) 


iir'  |in'ut.  tlic  danirrr  to  oju'm'Ivi's  was  twniiilil  ;  llist.  Ir-t  tlio 
tl.H'  ^liiiiild  iinw  suiii::  ill.  and  .-ri'vi-  iis  murli  ia  tin-  .>a'iii) 
iiiMiiiH'r;  and.  si'ciiiidly.  Ii>t  its  |iri-s>iiri;  slimild  drtarli  l!io 
]  iMil-ii'i'  to  \\  liicli  wi'  wi'i'i'  srciii'i'd,  and  thus  M't  us  adritt  to 
l!lf  nirrcv  ut'tln'  tidrs.  Ila|i[iil\.  Imwrx  rr.  Ilritiirr  nl  t!|i'-i) 
i.-carird,  tin-  tine  iTiiiainiiiL,'  st.itinnarv  liir  tlii'  rest  nt'  t!io 
1  'le.  and  sftliiiLT  oll'uitli  the  ebb  which  math-  soon  alter." — 

r.  •j<iit. 

Ill  addition  to  tlio  ilaiiu'f'f  wliicli  t]iro!itrm'(l  to  criisii 
;ihil  o\t'r\\  li<diii  the  ships  anions  these  trfiiieiidoits  mass- 
r-  nt"  ice  tliiis  thrown  into  violent  coinmotion,  was  iho 
rh  Hire  of  heiii::  beset  ill  the  liiidsf  of"  tllo  (Iocs,  aiul  iti 
th:it  helpless  state  swept  MWay  with  the  (lood  tide  and 
(iirreiit  to  the  southward,  and  drit"led  batds  a^ain  to 
SiHithaiiipton  Island,  as  liad  liapiiened  to  them  bel'ore, 
;ii:d  thus  aiiaiii  would  the  labor  ol'  weeks  be  inevitably 
liNt.  15y  the  l"Jtli  of. I  Illy,  liowever,  after  loiij;  iiiid  uii- 
r<iiiittiiiu  perseverance,  mid  by  takiiri  advanfai'c  of  every 
ii|)eiiiii^  and  breeze  of  wind  to  move  the  ships  to  th(» 
iiHillivvard.  tlli-v  had  reached  the  latitude  of  (iT  1  ■''.  op- 
|)ns;te  to  a  considerable  openini;  in  th(^  land,  out  of  wlfadi 
,1  stroll;,'  current  was  observed  to  set  into  the  sea.  It 
had  not  the  least  ap])earance  of  a  Jiassauc  :  but  as  it  of- 
fiTcd  a  seen  'ity  iiuaiiist  any  ice  cnmin^  in.  Parry  deter- 
iiiiiicd  to  anclior  as  near  it  as  pos-^|b|e,  and  to  examii.o 
what  he  justly  supposed  to  be  a  iVesh-water  river;  and 
a  Ircsh-water  river,  as  may  be  supposed,  was  too  ureat 
a  hiMiry,  as  wi  II  as  novidty,  in  a  rciiion  id  ice  and  snow, 
til  he  sli^^htlv  passed  over.  The  boats  of  both  sliips  wero 
tlierefiiic  employed  ill  l<lndin^  parties  to  partake  of  this 
iiasis  in  the  desert. 

"  l,andiii.r  on  the  smidi  vhnn'  anil  liauliir.'  tiie  liuat>  up 
;iliiiM'  hiu'li-w  ater  iiiaik'.  we  lanibled  np  llie  bank.-  ot  the 
^iieaiii.  which  are  juw  next  the  water,  but  rise  alinii>t  iiii- 
iiii'ilialelv  to  the  iiei_'ht  nt'  abniit  Iwii  hundred  feet.  A-  Wil 
pi'iii'eiileil  we  i:radiiall\  lieaiil  the  iiiii.-.e  of  a  tall  nf  water; 
and  bciii'.,'  prc-eiilly  nbrii:ei[  tn  >trikc  niore  inland.  a»  the 
hank  became  ni'ire  |ireiipiliius,  >;iiiiii  nbiaineil  a  tVe-h  sievv 
III  the  stream,  rimniic:  mi  ;i  inmli  iii:.'iier  le\el  than  belnre, 
Mid  ila.-hinur  wiili  L'reat  impetii'i.Mty  down  two  ^inall  cata- 
rnt.-".  ,lii>i  below  thi.>.  hnwever,  where  the  ii\er  turns  al- 
lii'i.-T  at  a  riuilit  aii_le,  we  perceived  a  iiiifcli  LUeater  >[iiav, 
a.T.  well  iLS  a  limilcr  sound  ;  and  iui\  lii^'  walked  a  short  di:*- 


^    \ 


% 


i  I 


ill 


i 


"(I! 


|: 


.'); 


(    !' 


Ii. 


(I 


4- 


I     i 
i 


m 


IV 


V  ■ 


I  I 


•  /    •* 


U  ' 


110 


ARCTIC  vovA(;i;s. 


1;il)cc  down  liir  1  );i  lik  , -llildi'iiK   ("iiiu'   U|iiiu  llir   [il'iiiri  |i;il   l.ili. 
(tt    \\llii>c    iiiaL;liirui'lli'i'    I   .1111   III    a    ln.-s    In   ^;  i  \  (     llll\    ;ii  li'i  |ii;ii,> 
(l('.^ci"i|iticin.       Vl  till'  Iliad  nl'llic  fail,  or  wlirii-  it  coiiiiiiciir,  ~ 
il>    prilirijial    di'xrut,    till-     iImt    is    cnliliarli'il    tn    aliiiiil    mn' 
liiiiidrrd    and   lill\    Iri't    ill    lircadtii.   tlir    tlianiii'l   liriii^    iiul- 
luwi'd    mil    tlin)iiL:li    a    snlid     I'lifU    nt    i;iir;-->.         VIliT    talliM_' 
aliMiit  tit  I  mi  li'i't.  at  an  air^lf  ol'  :!()     w  idi  a  \  iTlual  linr.  tli.' 
widlli    lit    till-    ^Irraiii    is  still   uaiTiiwi'd   tu   alunit   tiirty   vanU. 
and  tlii'ii.  a>  it  niii>li'i'iim  its  wlmli'  tiin  r  |)i'i'\  inns  in  its  tiiip 
di'sc-'iit,  i.>  |i.''''!i|>itali'd  in  mii'  \;isl  cnnlinnniis  >lii'i't  nt'  walir 
aliiiiisl  |iri|)rndicnlaily  tnr  ninety  tn-t  inmr.      Sn   m-arlv.  in- 
di'i'd,  i>  llic  inck  |)i'i|)iMidiciilai',  that   wi-  wrir  riiaMrd  tn  In 
dnwn  a  sniindiii.'  Irad  and  liiu'  liir  tlir  |iiir|in.-r  nt   nii'a>nrin_' 
it>  actual   li('i:jlit.  wliili'  a   man  drxi'iidnl    li'nin  rra_'   tn   i  r.i.; 
witli    a    M'cniid    linr    atlarlii'd    to    Inin.  tn   .-I'r    wIhmi    the    l"Mii 
liiiiclird    till'   walrr  lirjnw.      Tin'    da-liiiiLr    n|'  tlir  wali'i'  trni;, 
snrji  a  lii'iL;lit   jirndnrrd  till'  ii~iial  arinni|ianiiiii'nt  nt    a  rimi  I 
nt'  >]n"a\',  lirnad  rnliiinn^  nt  whicli  wn'r  rnn^iaiilK'  tnrn'd  ii[i. 
liki'  till'  MUii'>sivt'  in^lii's  nt'  siimki'  timn  a  \a-t  lurnai'n,  and 
on   this,  nrai'  tin'  tn|i.  a   \i\id   iris  nr   rainlmw  was  (»(ra-ini|- 
allv  I'nnni'd   liv  tlir  hriulit   ra\>nt'a!i  iiinlniiilrd  sun.      ' 'I'hr 
rnaiiiiu'  III   till"    nmnntaiii-cataiait.'  \\liirli   cniistitiilrs   a   [ii'in- 
cipal   Iralnir  nt   tlir   >iilprniir   in    Mrnri\'   nt    thi>   niauiiillrriit 
natiii'r,  was  linr  ahnn.-i  dralrnin,' ;   and  as  \\  r  wrrr  alilr  in 
apprnarli  thr  lirad  nt'  tlir  tall  cM-ii  sn  clnM-   as  a  >iiiL;lr  \  rii. 
till'    vr|-\    rnck   ^rrninl    tn   -nll'rr   a    <'nni'n~--inn    lllldrr  nilf   tn  :. 
Thr    liasin    that    rriri\rs   thr    watrr    at    thr    j'nnt    nt'   thr    t.dl    i- 
nraiiv  III'  a   rircnlai'  Inrni,  and   almiit   tnnr   Imndi'rd   safds  m 
dianirtrr,    liriiiu'    rathri'    widri-    than    thr    ri\rr    ininird  ialr|\ 
hrlnw    it.      'i'hr  la H   is  alimit  tlirrr  i|naitrrs  nt'  a  iiiilr  aini\' 
(Mir  land  iiiL'-plarr,  nr  1  \\  n   inilrs  and  a  i|uailrr  Irmii   thr   iii 
leaner  nl    thr  ri\ri-.      Altrr   rrniainuiL:    nraiiv  an  hniir.  li,\ri| 
us  it  wrrr.  In  ihr  >|inl   li\   tin'  nnvrllv  ami  in::  jnilirrnrr  nt  llh 
sii'iir   lirliiir   lis,  wr   cnmiiiiird  niir  walk   n|i\\ard   alnii_^  \\i< 
hanks,  and.  altrr  passin::  thr  two  sin  illrr  ralaracts.  tiniiid  ;h' 
rivrr  aijain  inrrra^rd  mi  width   tn  alin\r  iwn  hiindrrd  \aiil- 
wiiidiiii,'  in  thr  iiin>t  iniiiantic  iiiannrr  iinauiiiaiilr  aiiinn_'  liii 
liill>.  and  |Ui'--rr\  in::  a  siimnlli  and  iinriillird  snit'arr  tnr  a  d'- 
taiirr  nt'  ihl'rr  nr  tiiur  inilrs  that  wr  tl'arrd  it  tn  ihr  >niitli\\  ol 
alin\r  IJir   lldl.       What  addrd  rMrniirU    In  thr  hrailtS'  nt'lh- 
]ru'tiirrs(|iir  ri'>  rr.  whiiii  ( 'nniniandri'  L\  nil  and  inv.-rir  iianird 
at'lrr  niir   inntnal  t'liriid,  Mr.  Iiarinw.  snrrtarv  In  thr    \diir- 
I'alty,  was  thr  riiiinr^s  nl'  thr  \ri:rtatinii  nn  its  hanks,  thr  la- 
livriiiiiu'  hrilliaiirv  nt    ,i  rlnii  llrss  skv.  ami  thr  aniniatinii  _'r> 
r\i  tn  thr  -irnr  liv  .-rvrral  iriiidrrr  that  were  gra/iiiL.'  l»r>idr 
llie  .stivau).." — 1'.  -Jfj  i.  -..Mj.j. 


iiiri|Ml  I. ill. 

S    ,'lili'i|ll;iti- 

■IPIIIIIli'lK'i   - 

almilt    ii||,' 

liciiii:  liul- 
I'li-r    iiilliiiLr 

III     lilir.    lllr' 

iii'tv  yaiiU. 
;  1(1  il>  liii.il 
ct  III'  water 

ui-arK.  iii- 
llilfil  tn  In 

iinMsiiiiiii; 
raiC  t(t  era:: 
ii  the  h'ad 
\\  all']-  tniiii 

III'  a  I'liiiiij 
•  lipi-ci'd  ii|). 
ii-nacc,  all. I 
IS  ncca^iii'i- 
<llll.  *  I'lir 
lies  a  |i|-ili- 
iiiauiiiliri'iit 

(M'c  alilr  !'• 
^iiiL;li'  \  ir.l. 
cf  <illf   \ri-: . 

f  111.'  fill  i^ 

il  \ar(l-  ill 
niM'(liaIi'l\ 
mill-  llltn\.' 
III!    till"    III- 

mill".  li.\<'i|. 

CIICC    (  it    llll' 

iliiii_'  llh' 
--,  tiiiiinl  ;li'' 
Irrd  \  ai'il-. 

iiniiiu'  ill'- 
■r  till'  a  (!:-- 

>MUtll\\r-t 
nilv  lit  th'' 
M'lt'  iiaiiii'ii 

\\\i'  \iliii'- 
iiks.  till-  I'li- 
iiiatiiiii  -'i\- 
/.iiil:  l)i'>i.li' 


CAPTAIV    PAURV'.S    SP.COVD    VOYAJiK.  Ml 

K  I'tiirtiiiis:  on  lioard.  tliry  foiiiid  n  sti-oni:  soiitlierly 
liirr/i'  to  lliivf  dl'ivrii  tlir  ICC  ottlViiiii  tlic  sliurc.  ati'ord- 
ill.;  all  i)|)cM  clnimud  licfwccii  tlic  ice  and  the  liiiid  c  imt 
|i  v^  than  nine  miles  in  width.  l'|)  tliis  tiiey  |n-nceede(|, 
iiiid  pii'-sed  seveiid  headlands,  ti)  ca(di  of  whicdi  they 
■.;;i\e  a  n;iiiie.  Such  \va<  the  adviiiitii'ic  <»l"  ii  tiiir  wind 
and  (ipeii  wiiter.  thiil,  lis  I'an  says.  ••  we  had  lieeii  lU- 
Miicd  with  iiii  iiiiiihstrncled  run  of  lilty  miles;  an  event 
iif  III)  trilling  ini|)oi't!iiice  in  this  tedimis  and  uncertain 
n:i\i'.:iition.''  '^I'he  ;;reat  increa>e  in  the  nnniher  tif  sea- 
liiij-ses  conliniied  the  iiiiviiiators  in  the  litdiet"  tlnit  they 
were  now  approiKdiint:  Aniitioke.  the  coiintiy  of  MiLirnik, 
III  the  iiei^hhorhoiid  of  which  slie  and  her  companions 
had  I'leipieiitly  represcnled  them  as  ahiindant.  As  they 
prnc'cdcd.  these  walruses  hecame  more  iind  more  ini- 
nicrons  every  hour,  lyiii^;  in  Jai'Lie  herds  upon  the  loose 
pieces  ot' drift-ice.  iiiiddled  close  |o  anil  lyiuLT  upon  eacli 
ntlier.  in  sepanite  dro\es  of  I'rom  twehc  to  thirty,  the 
ulmlc  niimher  near  llie  boats  heinii  proh.ihly  iilioiit  two 
iiiliidi'ed. 

(Ill  the  Kith  il  iireat  deal  of  liii:h  land  was  hroimht  in 
sl'jht  to  tli(>  northward  and  eastward,  which,  on  the  lirst 
inspection  of  the  Ksipiimiinx  (diarts.  was  decided  to  he 
tti;i!  hir^'o  portion  lietween  wlii(di  iiiid  the  continent  lay 
till'  promised  strait,  that  was  to  lead  the  ships  to  the 
wi'-twaid  into  the  i'olar  Sea.  So  liir  all  was  satisiac- 
tiiiv  :  "hilt,  iilter  sailing  a  few  miles  farther,  it  isimpos- 
siMe  to  descril)e  oiir  disappoint iiieiit  and  mortitii  ation  on 
))crceivini!;  an  iinhroUeii  sheet  of  ice  e\tendin;;  coinplete- 
l\  across  the  siip|)iised  |>as^ai:e.  troiii  one  land  to  the 
nllier."  Here  they  Were  joined  by  several  Ivstpiinia  ii\. 
lint  none  of  their  old  t'riends,  who  had  not  yet  arri\ei|  at 
any  of  their  stations.  'I'liey  uhtaiiied  Irom  the  new  ones, 
lii'Wever.  one  very  inlei'estiiiu  piece  ot' iiitormation.  name- 
Is.  that  it  was  lirlooliU  on  which  they  were  now  almiit 
to  land,  and  whi<di  they  knew  t'roni  their  Winter-Island 
tiii'iids.  Iliiiliiik  in  particular,  was  near  to  the  strait  thai 
was  to  conduct  them  into  the  l*olarSea.  in  this  iieiyh- 
liiii'hood  were  iiiimeroiis  l-lsi|irminii\  of  the  same  frieiid- 
h  and  cheerful  (diameter  as  iliic>e  ot'  Winter  Uland,  Init 
apparently  somewhat  less  intellectual.  I*a;ry  now  .  how- 
cM)'.  ha'l  I.Mit  one  j.M'e;il  ohjeci  at  heart.  \\liic|i  was  to  ;it- 


i,    ( 


I 


»'.Vi 


— ^  ., 


'I 


llilV 

Ct 


Accoidmiily,  on  tlic  J  itli  ot  Aiic'ist  lio  set  our.  on  tlio 
Mil  cro^scil  the  iJoiivt'rit!  Isliiiids.  and  (»n  the  lullowiii;: 
ly  iirrivcd  ul  n  pcnnisniii.  which  hf  oxinnnitMl,  and  |)ri(- 
't'dt'tl  to  its  cxtrrnio  iiorthfin  point,  wliich  was  tound 
overlook  tl.i'  niiiTowcst  pai't  ot"  the  dfsired  strait,  ot' 
liicli  ho  iiivos  tho  Ibllowin^n  hriot"  acconnt  : 
"  'l"iif  strait  lay  innuodialL-ly  lu-low  us,  in  alMiiit  an  ra>t  ami 
M'fsl  diici'lioii.  Iiciiitr  two  inili'>  in  widdi,  a|>|iamitlv  very 
(li'cp.  .•111(1  w  itli  a  tide  or  CMn'ciit  of  at  li'a>t  two  knots,  scttiiiu' 
tlic  joosi'  ici>  thrniiL:li  to  tin'  ca-tward.  iJcyond  us,  to  tin- 
Wi'st.  the  shores  airaiii  separated  to  the  distaiiee  ot'  sevei;il 
leaLMU's,  !ind  I'oi'  more  than  three  ))oints  otthe  coinpa.-s  iu  thai 
dlrectioa  no  land  conld  he  seen  to  tlie  utmost  limits  of  a  ch'ar 
hori/oii.  except  one  i>land  six  or  se\cu  miles  distant.  (Jvcr 
tiiis  we  could  enterliiin  no  denht  oi'  li;ivim:  discovered  tin 
i'olai'  Sea;  and,  loaded  as  il  was  with  ice,  we  ali'eadv  tell  a- 
if  we  were  on  the  point  ot' tia'cinu'  our  way  throiii.h  it  aloui' 
the  northern  shiM'es  ot'  America. 

•'  After  di>pa1<'hin^  one  of  oiii'  partv  to  the  foot  ot'  iht^  point 
fo»'  some  of  tlie  sea  water,  which  was  liiund  extrenn-lv  salt  to 
the  ta>le,  wi>  hailed  tin'  iuterestiiiL'  I'veut  of  thi'  moiaiiuLT  hy 
thi'ee  heai'tv  cheers,  and  liy  a  small  extra  allowiince  of  iri'o:. 
to  our  people,  to  drink  a  >afe  and  >peedv  pa>saL'e  lin"oui!li  thw 
tlianui-'l  Just  eiiscovered,  whicli  1  ventured  to  name,  by  tuitu; 


iiiadc  siM- 
itniiict',  ii|i 
olil  ice  lint 
liaviiiii  ar- 
ud  as  to  its 

lur's  delay 
and  "stdp- 
•ry  tlirc'sli- 
iiir  wt't'ls.s. 
Wfstwaid. 
CSS  paint'ii! 

LTlilul't'  dl'- 

itward,  ni- 
iiiii  ill  tli;il 
r,  at  li'iii;ih 
It  IKtt,  prr- 
aiid  "  tliii>. 
10  rt".i|)i'(:t- 

oilt.  (Ill  tile 
(•  t'ulldwill^' 
d,  and  ))ri»- 
was  I'miiid 
A  strait,  ot" 

;iii  ('a>t  and 

•I'lilly  vciy 

(Kits,  ^fltiiiL; 

u-i,  In   till' 

ot'  srvrriil 

i|)a.-s  in  tliiit 

Is  lit'  a  cli'ar 

laiit.      Unit 

■ovrrcd   tin 

•ady  I'rit  -d- 

Ji  it  ainiii; 

nt'  the  piiiiit 
iiifly  salt  til 
iniirniiii:  liy 

lirr   (if  lll'iii; 

liiniuirli  thir 
II ■,  Itv  aiitii; 


CATTAIX    PARRY'ri    SI-COND    VOYAiJE.         1  !,*{ 

i[)ili(iii,  /hi'  Si  mil  of  the  Fun/  nii'l  Hrrln.  Ifiiviiiu  Iiuilt  a. 
iiilf  (it  >t(iii»'s  (111  tlic  |>r(iiii(iiitury.  \\lii(|i,  ("nuii  ii>  >iiii;irntii 
\  iili  n'-pi'cf  1(1  the  (•(iiitiiiciil  dt'  America.  1  ciilU'd  (',ij„  Sor'h- 
i-iist.  we  walked  liiick  to  our  tent  and  luL'U'aL'e.  tlicM'  li.i\  iiiu'. 
I'or  the  sake  (if"  ^n-eater  exjieilitimi.  lt(<eti  left  two  miles  lieliind, 
and.  ;it'tei-  restim:  a  tew  Imurs.  set  out  at  W  I'.M.  on  our  re- 
inrn.-— I'.  :{|-J. 

'I'iiis  little  journey  ))rove(l  safisfacfory  n^  far  as  it 
Weill:  it  iiave  to  I'arry  a  personal  view  ol"  the  strait, 
tiiiil  satisfied  liiiii  that  its  water  was  tliat  ol"  the  >ea.  Tuit 
lis  the  northeast  point  tVoiii  wliieii  he  saw  it  tdriiis  the 
Oiistern  entrance  only  from  the  south  side  ot"  tlie  strait, 
niid  he  deenKMl  it  e.\pe(lit'iit  that  soiiiethiii:^  more  of  it 
sliiiiild  l)e  known,  he  took  measures  accorihnuly.  In  the 
(•nurse  of  a  week  following',  a  lii^ht  iiorthea>terly  liree/c 
allowed  the  ships  to  he  steti'ed  under  all  possihle  sail  up 
the  strait.  I>y  keepinij;  on  the  soiilh  or  coiitiiu'iital  shore, 
;iii(l  pa-<siiiir  aloni:  hy  ( "ape  Nort  heast  within  fw(»  or  three 
liiiiidied  yards  of  the  rocks,  they  siicceede(|.  with  the 
iissistaiice  of  the  hoats  ahead,  in  yettiiiij;  throiii,di  the  nar- 
row channel.  The  leii^'th  of  this  narrowest  part  of  thei 
sti'iiit  is  said  to  extend  ahoiit  three  miles  in  the  direction 
of  west  hy  north  :  it  is  here  two  miles  across,  and  keeps 
its  width  the  whole  way  through  this  narrow  part.  Two 
(diisiderahle  islands  almost  shut  up  the  said  part,  named 
l>y  I'arry  ( )rmoiid  and  Liddoii  lslan('>;  the  soulheiii 
point  on  the  i'oi'mer  of  whicdi,  heiiiii;  directly  opposite  to 
(*;ipe  Northeast,  forms  the  iiortiiern  point  of  the  iiiirrow 
etitriince.  to  whicdi  i'ari'y  assiijMed  the  name  ol"  (ape 
( >N-.oiy.  The  ships,  howe\er,  Wei'e  soon  stopped  hy 
iipparently  permanent  ice  diimin:::  to  the  shores  (»f  the 
iiiiove-meiitioned  islands  and  of'  the  contiiieiil  ;  ••  and 
tinis."  says  I'arry.  "after  a  vexations  delay  tdsix  weeks 
111  till'  eastern  eiitrariee  of  the  strait,  and  at  a  time  when 
we  held  every  reason  to  hope  that  Nature,  though  hith- 
erto tardy  in  her  animal  disruption  of  the  ice,  had  at: 
leiiL'lh  made  an  effort  to  complete  it.  did  we  lind  our  pro:^'- 
ress  once  more  opposed  hy  a  harrier  of  tile  same  coii- 
limious.  inipeiiet ralile,  and  hopeless  nature  as  at  >ir>t.'' 

Hopeless  ;is  it  was  that  iiMK  h  more  could  lie  done,  as 
coiiceiiied  the  movements  of  the  expedition,  now  tliit 
the  month  ot"  Aiii^ust  was  just  e\|)iriiii:.  Parry  \{'y\  pmp- 
crK   determined  that  all  donhts  should  he  sati-'fii-'h  a-j 


f  111 


^M 


''it  i, 
'1 


s 


f 


Ml 


ARCTIC    V0YA(;K;<. 


Avcll  !is  tliiit  every  iiilnnii;it  ion  slieiiM  he  trniiied.  !is  fo  the 
leii;.'th  of  the  sliMit.  ;iii(l  the  extent  el"  the  fixed  ice  theii-- 
in.  l-'or  this  purpose,  thi'ee  ex|)!oriin:  parties  were  seiit 
out  ill  (liH'ei-eiit  direetioiis  :  that  tor  deciiliii^  the  point  in 
(|nestion  consisted  of  \]  r.  JJnshnan  with  three  men.  nn- 
(h-r  the  orders  o|"  I/ieiiteiiant  Keid.  who  was  instrncfed 
to  |)r(iceeil  aloiii:  the  nortliern  coast  ol  the  strait  to  th  ■ 
\vest\\ard.  to  i^ain  as  niiKdi  inlorniation  as  possilile  le- 
s|)e(tin^  the  terinination  of  the  strait,  and  to  I'etnrn  td 
the  ships  in  tone  days.  |5y  liis  i-eport  it  appears  tlial, 
hy  an  ol)servat i(»n  on  the  secoml  (hiy  ot'  liis  jonrney,  llic 
latitude  he  I'eacdied  was  7(1  dH'  i>")  .  and  that  from  thi^ 
point  he  conid  percei\f  that  tlie  opposite  or  main-lainl 
(that  is,  the  south  shore  ol'  the  strait)  i;ra(hially  Ireiideil 
to  the  s(»iithward.  lea',  iiii:  a  hrnad  entrance  into  the  we>t- 
ern  sea.  lie  says:  The  weather  hein^f  clear,  ali()r(lei| 
us  an  extensive  |)rospect  to  the  westward,  and  we  conld 
now  perceive  that  a  hliilf  near  the  iioilh  shore,  wliich 
had  hefoi'e  iippear<'(|  insular,  foriiieil.  in  reality,  the  north- 
ern point  of  the  ent  ranee,  and  I  named  it  ('ajx  Ihtlli'ir. 
W/.  on!  ol"  respect  to  \  ice  admiral  Sir  ISenjamin  1 1  a  How- 
ell." To  a  line  hay  on  the  (  "ockhiirn- Island  shore  (the 
Moi'tii)  he  i:a\('  the  naiiH'  of  Antrid::e.  and  t(»  an  inlet  in 
the  same  land  that  of  White  ;  and  he  concludes  tiiis  pari 
of  his  report  hy  saying  that  "the  o|)eniny,  of  the  strait 
into  the  I'olar  ."^^ea  was  now  s(t  decided,  that  I  c(»nsider- 
ed  the  principal  ohject  ol"  my  journey  accomplished." 
It  would  have  been  more  satisfactory  if  Mr.  Keid  had 
lieeii  a  little  more  circiiinstaiitial  in  his  oliservatioii  on  tlir 
tW(»  west(M'ii  points  of  the  strait;  that  wliicdi  is  named 
MiiLllerield  on  the  (diart.  hut  hy  whose  authority  doe- 
not  appear,  is  not  mentioned  as  a  cape,  iii'adually  trend- 
ing to  the  southward,  and  leaviiii:  a  hroad  entrance  iiitn 
the  Western  Sea.  It  may  hardly  he  necessary  to  oli- 
ser\('  that  a  |)oiiit  (d'laiid  seen  ohlKpiely  l"rom  a  distance 
of  twenty  or  thirty  miles  must  he  \ery  unsatisfactorily 
laiil  down  on  paper.  The  \\  idtli  hetweeii  the  two  shore-> 
opeiiinu  into  the  sen  appears  to  ht  ahoitt  six  or  seven 
Hides.  whi(di.  compared  with  its  length  of  sixty  miles, 
can  >^carcidy  he  called  a  ••  tuaLiiiiliceiit  passage.""  Its  ca- 
pacity, however,  not withstandiiii:  the  ohstructiiiii  islaiid>^, 
iii!iy  he  ainply  suflicieiit  tt;  admit  u  passage  into  the  i\>- 


1,  IIS  to  tile 
ifC  tlnTc- 
WflC  SCIil 
M*  |)«)ltlt  III 
'    lllt'll.   Ull- 

iiislniclf(i 
I'iiit  to  ill  ■ 
ossil)lt'  I'r- 
)  return  tn 
)fiirs  tliiit. 
iinit-y,  tin- 
1  iVoiii  tliis 
Miiiiii-liinil 
lly  liTinlfil 
»  the  wt'st- 
ii\  iitloi'dt'il 
il  we  coiilil 
ore,  wliicli 
,  tilt'  Mortli- 

jli      llitllnir- 

liii  I  ImIIow- 
.-liorc  (ilii- 
I  ill!  inlet   III 
es  this  jiail 
the   striiit 
considei'- 
plislied." 
Kei.l  h;id 
ion  on  the 
is  niiniiMl 
iiity  iluiH 
illy  trenil- 
I'lince  intu 
iry  to   oli- 
.1  distiince 
tisfiietocily 
wo  slloi'r> 
x  or  se\  ell 
\ty  niile^. 

■■  "    Its  Cli- 

iiii  island-, 
to  tlie  i'u- 


iini 


t 


1 


,1' 


II 


f  V 


CAPTAIN    rAIlllV  ri    SECOND    VuVArJE. 


115 


l;ir  Sell  ioi-  sliips  ot  u  nioderiite  si/e.  tlioiirh  it  is  pretty 
(irtiiin  tiiiit  no  ship  w  ill  e\er  iiltempt  it.  not  ineicly  on 
iiccoiint  ot"  the  iee  willi  which  it  iippenr.s  to  he  periiiji- 
iieiilly  l)lo(d\ed  up.  hut  iilso  ol'tlje  perpetiliil  cuneiit  ■^et- 
tiiiL'  down  it.  oee!isionin<:  sueli  ii  tiiinull  iioiis  sxsell  mid 
distnih.iiice  ir.fioiiii  the  ice  lis  must  render  ,\  still  more 
daiiuei'ous  lor  sliijis  to  ancdior  in  iiiiy  j)!irt  neiir  the  eust- 
eiii  inoiith  ot'  the  striiit. 

The  •Jtth  of  Septemher  haviiii;  now  mrived.  Parry 
ceiisidereil  it  no  Ioniser  siit'e  to  venture  the  ships  to  re- 
main in  this  sen.  their  situiition  heini;  one  otiiliiiost  coii- 
stiiiit  iiiid  miiivoidahle  danm'r.  lie  (h'termined.  tliere- 
toie.to  run  over  to  luloolik  in  search  ol' winter  'piarters, 
w  liii  h  was  accomplished,  though  not  wiliiont  imminent 
daii::('r  to  hoth  sliips.  'Pile  situation  was  not  very  lavoi-- 
ahle  lor  |)assini:  the  winter  in,  hut,  iiy  cuttinif  ii  canal  in 
the  ice  as  usual,  tliey  were  placed  in  security.  TIm^ 
whole  leni;tli  of"  tliis  canal  was  l.il.'J  teet  :  the  thickness 
lit' the  ice  in  tlie  level  and  reiriilar  parts  from  I  J  to  It 
inches,  hut  ill  many  places  where  a  separation  had  (te- 
nured it  amounled  to  several  feet.  •'  I  can  not,"  says 
I'arry,  '*  surticiently  do  justice  to  the  <dieerl"iil  alaciily 
with  whi(di  the  men  continueil  this  lahorions  work  diir- 
iiiii  tiiirteeii  davs,  the  tliermometer  beiiii:  t'reiiiientlv  al 
:'/■",  and  once  as  low  as  — !)-  in  that  interval. 

Iteiiif:  now  estahlished  in  wiiitei'  (piarters  tor  the  sec- 
ond time  in  the  present  voyiiiic.  Parry's  thoiiiilits  were 
naturally  employed  in  considering  what  fartiier  steps 
>lioiild  h(»  pursued,  and  what  e\|)edieiit  iu'  should  hav(^ 
recourse  to  on  their  liberation  rr(an  the  ice  some  ten  or 
eleven  months  hence.  His  resolute  and  enterprisiufj 
charactei"  was  not  likely  to  he  satislie(l  witli  the  litth! 
progress  tliat  had  heeii  made  in  the  discovery  of  a  noi'tli- 
west  passage,  wlii(di  was  tlie  main  oiiject  of  the  voyafjc!. 
The  measure  in^  (•oiiteiii[)iate(l  appeals  to  have  been  u 
IhiM  one,  and  one  whi(di,  situated  as  the  siiips  wer«*, 
could  not  possibly  liave  been  attended  with  any  advim- 
tiii;e  to  that  object,  and  would,  to  a  certainty,  have  been 
productive  of  fatal  I'esiilts  to  himself  and  tlu^  whole  crew  ; 
but  let  iiim  speak  for  hims«df : 

•■  FlatteriiiLT  as  our  prospects  apjieareil  at  the  connneiice- 
meut  (if  the  past  summer,  our  etfurls  had  certainly  net  been 


'J'   1 


r:* 


!f, 


, 


1'  t 


I 


i 


.# 


f 


i 


I  • 


/I 


MG 


ARCTIC    VOYAGE:?. 


i  . 


;itlfii(lt'(l  with  :i  ])i'o|)(iiliiin;itc  il('_r!T(>  orsiicccss.  innl  litlln  mii- 
isi'actioil  I'dlClilird  tn  ils  ;it  tlic  cIom-  nt  tlir  M';i>i>ll  hill  the  cnii- 
N'ioiisiios  (if  liiiviiiu'  Icl'l  11(1  iiH'iiiis  williiii  iMir  ic;icli  iiiiti-iril 
lliiit  ciiiild  ill  iiiiy  \v,iv  pi'oiiKitc  iiiir  (ilijcct.  It  ic<|iiiiril.  in- 
(Ircd.  l)iit  11  ."inu'lc  i:liiiicf  ;it  lli<-  cliitrt  to  |ii'rcrivi>  tlial  \vli;il- 
fvcr  llic  h>I  >iiiiiiiicr"s  iiavi^iUinii  liad  addi'd  In  mif  i.'i'oi:ra|ih- 
ical  kiinw  IcdiTc  nt'  tlic  rasti'i'ii  cua^t  ol  America  and  its  adil- 
ccat  lands,  very  littif  liad  in  reality  l)eeii  ellected  in  fiirtiier- 
Jince  i)t'  the  Nmlliwest  I'assaLre.  liven  tlie  actual  discovery 
(it'tlie  desired  njii-iiinu  into  tile  I'olar  Sea  had  heeu  ol'iio  prac- 
tical henelit  in  the  |ir(isecuti(iii  ol"  onr  en1er|irise  ;  llir  we  had 
only  discovered  this  channel  to  liiid  it  iiiiiiassal»l(>.  and  to  srr 
the  harriers  of"  nature  ini|>eiieti'ahly  closed  a;.'ainst  us,  to  tln" 
iitiiiost  limit  (if  the  nayiirahle  season. 

"  Viewin;,'  the  matter  in  this  liirlit.  it  appeared  to  I'esolv 
itself  into  the  siijL'le  (|ue>tion,  hy  what  nwaiis  the  resoiirc 
of  the  expedition  could  possihly  he  extended  heyoiid  the  pc- 
liod  to  which  they  were  at  present  calculated  to  last,  namely, 
the  close  of  the  year  \'.V2\.  Only  one  expedient  siiuu'ested 
itself  hy  which  that  ohject  could  he  attained,  and  this  1  deter- 
mined to  adopt,  should  no  iinfoieseeii  occin're'.ice  ai'ise  to  |>re- 
veiit  it.  It  was,  to  send  the  llecia  to  lliiirlund  in  the  follow- 
inu'  season,  takiiii:  from  her  a  1welvemoiith"s  provisions  ninl 
fuel  to  complete  the  Kiuy's  resoiil'c<'s  to  llie  i'lid  of  the  vea|- 
lIl'J.'),  and  then  continnin;,''  onr  etlorts  in  that  ship  singly  a^ 
loiiir  MS  ;i  reasonahle  hope  remained  of  oui"  ultimate  Miccess. 
One  or  two  collateral  advanlaues  occurred  to  me  as  likely  to 
he  derived  from  this  plan,  the  iir>t  of  which  was  the  o|)pi)r- 
tniiity  thus  atVoi-diul  of  tran^miitiiiLr  to  the  Lords  Commission- 
ers of  the  A(lmir:ilty  a  full  account  of  our  past  procee<liiii;> 
and  present  situation  and  intentions,  wherehy,  ])erlia|)s,  mucli 
iieedltvss  anxiety  on  our  account  iniLfht  he  preventeil.  Ii 
^vould  also,  as  1  hoped,  allow  their  lordships  the  option  ol 
luakiii!,'  any  alteration  which  they  miLrht  now  deem  re(piisitc 
in  the  arraiiLTtMuents  pointed  out  in  my  instructions  i-espectiii.' 
the  ship  to  he  sent  to  meet  us  near  Uelirinir's  Strait,  for  wliidi 
tlie  orders  miLrht  not,  perhaps,  leave  Kuizland  heliu'e  the  airi- 
val  of  the  llecia  tln^re  in  the  autumn  of  l"-j:].  These  were. 
lioweviM",  minor  and  less  important  considerations;  inv  prin- 
cipal oh)(>ct  and  determination  heim,'  to  persevere,  to  the  ut- 
most extent  of  our  rt\sources,  in  the  prosecution  of  the  <Miter- 
prise  with  which  I  had  the  honor  to  I)e  chartr«'d.  Having' 
piiiiLrested  this  ex|)edient  to  Ca|)taiu  Lyon,  I  had  much  satis- 
faction in  tindiiiij:  his  o[)inion  I'litirely  coinc'kle  with  my  own, 
and  without  at  pn'sent  mentioning  it  to  the  tither  individuals 
heloni^Miii,'  to  the  expedition,  we  continiK^l  U)  consult  toLcetluT 
from  time  to  tiino  during  the  wiuter  cuuceruiug  tlio  urruuge- 


CAPTAIV    TARRY  rf   SECOND    VOVAGH. 


117 


1(1  lilll"  >:il- 

llli  till'  rnn- 
icll     llllllli'il 

iM|iiii-('(l.  iii- 

tllMt    Wllil'- 

i-  (.'cuirrii  I  ill- 
Ill  I  its  iidiri- 
iii  I'lirtliiT- 

il    tlix'dVi'lA 

I  di'  11(1  |)i';i(  - 

I'ur  \vi'  li.iil 

.  mill  tit  M-f 

.t    IH,   to    till- 

I  to  r»'solv(> 
i(>  rt'soiircrs 
(•ml  till."  Ill- 
list,  iiaiiirly, 

t    SllL'U'i'>li'il 

this  1  (Iclrr- 
;irisr  to  |iri'- 
l  till"  t'nlliiw- 
)visiiiiis  innl 
of  llic  yr:ii' 
lip  siiiLily  !i- 
i;il«'  silfccss. 
IS  likely  l'> 
-.  till-  i)|i|Mir- 
iiuiiiiissinn- 
riicrr(liiii:~ 
laps,  iinicli 

VCIltlMJ.         Il 

option   ot 

11    |-('(|llis!t(' 

ri'spt'cliii.' 
t.  liir  wiiicli 
n-c  till'  iini- 
'lu'so  were. 
;  my  jirin- 
,  to  the  iil- 
tlic  (Mitri'- 
l.  Hiiviiii: 
luuch  siitis- 
lli  my  own, 
indivitlnals 
Viilt  loi,'otlii'r 
lio  arraugo- 


niriits  it  woiilil  111'  r('i|iiI^Ito  to  mako  for  coinmciiciiiLr  tlio  rv- 
niilii'ii  of  our  plan  in  tin-  roiirsc  of  the  fnllowini.'  .-priiiir."— • 
r.  :C-J-:t7  1. 

( )iio  ol'tii(>  first  (ipcrntioif  was  to  hiiild  m  wall  ofsiiow 
iwt'ho  li'ct  liiyh  round  tlic  Kiiiy,  iiiid  at  tlio  distaiicr  of 
twenty  yards  from  lior.  "  t"oriiiiii«^  u  jarye  sipiaro.  like 
that  ot'  a  liirin-yard,"  liy  wiiifli  not  oiily  was  tlio  snow- 
drill  kept  out.  Imt  ii  jjood  slicltcrcd  walk  was  ail'ordod 
ii!;aiiist  every  wind.  Tlie  l-'iiry  and  the  llecla  Aero 
si'pafiited  oil  iiccoiint  of  the  lari:e  hoiniiioes  ot"  ice. 

"  Till' di-tance  hetween  the  two  >li!p~i,  thouL'li  iiit  such  as 
)ii  [ircveiil  constant  intercourse,  was  iii'\ citheless  too  ^.o'eat  tn 
;illiiw  of  our  continiiini:  the  theatrical  eiitertaiiimeiits.  hv 
which  our  liiriiier  winters  liac  lieeii  considrrahly  enlivened. 
This  was,  however,  the  less  re(|ni>ite,  and.  indeed,  eiitirelv 

iiiiiieces.-ary,  on  account  of  our  iieiuhhorh I  to  the   ilsijui- 

iiiau.x.  whose  daily  visits  to  the  >liips  throiii,'lioiit  the  winter 
iitlipideil  holli  to  ollicers  and  men  a  fund  of  nnistant  variety 
.iiiil  never-liiiliiiLr  aiiiiiseiiieiit,  which  no  resoin'i'cs  of  our  own 
niiiM  |)i)ssil)ly  have  furnished.  Our  people  were,  however, 
tiMi  well  aware  of  the  advantaLre  they  derived  from  the 
scliDols  not  to  he  desirous  of  their  re-estaiilishment,  which  ac- 
ciirdiiiizlv  took  |>lace  soon  after  our  arrival  at  iLrloolik,  and 
tlii'v  were  j,dad  to  continue  this  as  their  cM-niiiL,'  occupation 
iliiriiii.'  tho  six  siicceediim  months." — 1'.  :!?7-:!7;;. 

In  llio  mention  of  tiie  l-'s(|uimanx.  some  of  whom,  it 
appears,  htid  come  from  Amitioke,  and  amon<.'  whom 
were  many  of  the  old  Mc(ptiiintiiiiees  ol"  Winter  Island,  it 
ini^ht  liavo  heeii  expected  that  iliiilink  would  liave  heeii 
iiinoiii;  tlic  lirst  and  foreni<)-.t :  hut,  strange'  ii>*  if  may 
appcNir.  the  iia.'ie  even  of  this  extraordinary  person, 
from  whom  .so  ii.nch  valuahh^  tmd  correct  information 
had  l)0(Mi  received,  is  only  oiico  mentioned,  and  then 
rather  rc^proaclifidly,  iis  ii  name  in  tlie  iienertd  account 
ot  thes(>  peoi)le  ;  tm  iiccoiint  that  extends  tf)  iit  least  ii 
liuiidred  pajies,  descriptiv**  ot"  tlieir  character,  manniM's, 
and  customs,  and  detiiiliiiiii;  the  various  transactions  that 
took  place  duriuii  the  coidinemeiit  of  the  sliips,  .Xmotii^ 
the  visitors  from  Amitiokt'  was  that  distinuuished  youth 
Toolooak,  th(>  son  of  Hiiiliuk,  who  is  repeatedly  nieii- 
tioiicd  aiul  eomineiided.  "  I  counted  to-day."  says  Parry, 
'  on  a  ijirdie  worn  round  the  waist  liy  Toolooak's  mother, 
twenty-nine  deer's  ears,  ))ro(;ured  hy  tliis  youtig  man'a 


i 

•J  '  I 


II" 


i 

ill-  -0 
'(Ii 


ii 


f 


118 


ARCTIC   VOYACi: 


own  rxcrtiDiis  :  ;i  i;ir(ll«'  which  shf  cuiistiiiilly  wnirs,  n-; 
M  pntiid  trn|t|.y  nt  her  m»I|'s  r\|i|nl|s  :  iiiiil,""  hi'  !lil(l>. 
'•  thci'f  lire  lew  iiiuthcrs.  imlcnl,  who  iniiiht  not  K.' 
])ron(|  of  sui'h  ii  son  its  Toolooiik.  \\  ho,  on  lon;:('i'  in 
<|n;untiinct>,  ([uilo  niiiiula'nHMl  his  I'oi-nirr  fhiii'iu-tci-.  ol 
posscssini;  ncniy  fxrcllfnl  (jii.ilitifs  hoih  ol  hr;i(|  nml 
hfjirt."  I'ooc  lli::liiilvl  it  n;inic  iippciirin^  to  lie  no  Ion- 
izer rcnii-nilirri'il  hut  iis  'I'onlooiiU's  niotlicr;  hut  I'.iiiy 
MO  (lonl)l  MUini!  to  siiy  thut  Tooloonk  wore  the  ^ndlf, 
'•  whiili  \V!is  worn  [usiuiUij)  round  the  waist  of  his 
inoihiT."     J)Ut   t'lioniih  l"or  llio   present    ol"  iho   Ms(|ni- 

lllilllX. 

The  !ippt';ii'iinc('  ot'scui'vy  in  sonit'  slight  l)nl  un('(|iii\- 
(Miil  symptoms  cDnld  scarcely  he  a  snliject  ot  wonder. 
eon>iderinu  the  length  of"  time  the  ships'  crews  had  no 
other  dependence  than  upon  their  own  I'esoinces,  mias- 
^.sted  a';  tliey  had  lieen  hy  any  supply  of  fn  sh  anti- 
xiirlmtic  plants  or  other  ve^etahles.  a  case  nnpai'al- 
lejed  in  the  annals  ol"  nasiualion.  'Die  month  of  An;zii-«l 
liad  commenced,  when,  as  I'arry  ohserves,  "  incredilile 
ii.s  it  may  appear,  the  ships  were  as  securely  ciaiiineil 
in  the  ice  as  in  the  middle  ot'  winter,  except  that  a  poel 
of  watei'  ahotii  twice  tlieii'  own  length  in  diameter  \va> 
Jiow  open  around  them.  I  deteiniined.  thei-efore,"  he 
ndds,  ••  not willistatidin;^  the  apparent  hopelessness  ot" 
Nawinu  our  way  throui;h  l"our  or  live  miles  of  ict\  to  lie- 
iiin  that  lahorions  pr(»cess."  Jly  tlu^  (ith  of  Auiiust 
ulioiit  toiu'  hundred  yards  ot' ice  were  sawn  tlii'oujj,h  and 
floated  out.  leaving  now  a  hroad  caiiid  elescn  Imndred 
yards  in  len<:lh.  'i'hrouiih  this,  and  hy  the  disruption 
of  the  (h)e,  the  l''urv  was  liherated  and  Moated  into  open 
Avater  on  tlie  Htli  of  Auyust,  and  on  the  rjtli  was  fol- 
lowed hy  the  IltM'la.  Parry,  now  that  the  ships  were 
once  uKtre  alloat,  hei;au  to  itdlect  on  what  ho  had  pro- 
j)osed  to  do  on  tlio  return  of  summer. 

"  ^Vll(•n  the  latiMie.-.s  of  the  season  to  which  the  ships  had 
now  heeii  detaiai'd  in  the  ice  is  considered,  with  I'et'ereiice  to 
the  piohahility  of  thf  Fuiy's  etVectini,'  any  ihini:  <>f  iniportanoc 
diUMMi,'  the  short  remainder  of  tlie  picseat  surnniei'.  it  will  nut 
|)e  woiidercMl  at  that,  coii|)linu  this  coMsideration  with  that  nt 
tilt  health  ot  iiiy  olhcers  and  men,  I  liei:ini  to  entertain  doahf.s 
whether  it  would  still  be  priulenl  to  adopt  the  intended  nieais- 


''  .V 


»  \ 


wciirs,  ii-i 

he   iiild-, 

lit    not    l>.' 

loii^ci"  lit 

iiiiclrr.  (il 

lifiid    iiml 

In-  no  Inii- 

liiit  I'aiiv 

[lie   iiirdlt'. 

list    ot"    lii^ 

\u'    l'-s(|ni- 

il  un('(|ni\- 
i)t'  woiitlcr. 
\\  s  liiid  iiii 

|C»>S,    llllll-- 

I'n  sh  Hiili- 
i'    uiiparid- 

•  iiicn-dilili' 

Iv   iMililillt'd 

tiiat  a  |)<)i>l 

Illt'tlT   Wil- 

rctoi'c,"  lif 

t'ssiios   111 

H'^\  to  lif- 

ol"   Aiii;u>t 

roii^li  aiiil 

iiiiiidi'i'd 

ilisi-uptmu 

into  open 

1  was  I'ol- 

lii|)s  wcio 

e  hud  pi'o- 


sliips  li.iil 

I'l'tl'fCIll'l'   t<> 

iiii|)or1;nicv' 
it  will  not 
vitli  thai  lit 
itaiii  dniiiit-i 

iidi'il  UR':i>- 


cAiTAiv    parry's   SKCOVD   VOVAHE.         1  ID 

uiv  of  rt'MiaialiiL'  out  in  tin-  I'lirv  as  a  siiiL'Ir  >lii|i;  wlicllirr. 
ill  -liort.  iiiiil'T  <'\i-.iiii\:  (■iifiuM>l.iaci'-t,  llic  |iiiili.ili|i'  f\il  did 
lint  till"  iiiitwiiuli  liii-  piissildf  L'oiid.  Ill  indiT  to  a>-i-t  my 
iiw  n  jiid-nii'iit  (Ml  till-'  o<  ra.^ioii  ii|iiiii  <iii)>  (i|  ilii-  mu^l  inati'iiid 
liiiiils,  I  n'i|iu'>t«'d  llic  ini'diral  ulliicr-;  ot  iIh'  l'ar\  lo  liirni^h 
iiic  wiili  tlit'if  (ipiiiidMs  lis  to  tin-  |)nili;il)lc  ill't'cf  tliat  a  lliiid 

ulllirr  [la^^rd  ill   llirx'    rcL'iolis  Uuilld    pmducr   on   lllr    llriiltU 

III' the  nlliciTs.  sf.iiiirii.  and  inarinfx  of  iliiit  -"hip,  lakinir  into 
rniisidcnitioii  I'vrvy  circnm^taiici-  cfinnfclfd  with  dur  >itiia- 
II..II."— I'.   17(1. 

Tho  r('|)ly  ot"  Mr.  Mdwards.  tlic  sin't:('on,  \va^.  as  niiirlit 
111-  fxpcctcd,  dccisivt'.  I  ndt'i'  any  circinMstancos.  im 
staiod  that  an  incrca^o  ol'  u'onrral  dchilitN'.  with  a  fia' 
I't'spuiidniL;  d("4rt't'  of  sicknrss.  mi^hi  he  cxpt'cItMl  ;  ImiI, 
i:i»iisi(h'i'iii^  tlif  inattoi'  as  in  a  sini:lo  ship,  it  assnnir>  u 
iiiiiidi  nioio  important  sha|i('.  In  that  view,  the  incrraso 
(if  lahor  and  o\posii|-c.  fruiii  the  separation  ol"lht«  vessels, 
the  privation  of  many  salntary  oeeiipaticais,  mental  iiml 
nirporeal.  attending  their  ntiion,  inid,  at  this  late  perioil 
nt'  the  season,  the  hepelessiiess  of  the  snceess  of  tho 
rusniiiii  navii;ation,  wonid  he  swell  as  to  e\cite  feelini^s 
Mittieiently  lively  to  counteract  tlios(<  depressiiiii  causes. 
The  siihstaiice  of  the  answer  heini;  sent  lo  ( 'oiiimatider 
L\on.  after  noticing  the  ^reat  (lianiic  he  had  oh^erved 
in  llie  eoiislitlitioii  of  the  uflicers  and  men  of  the  lleel;i 
tVdiii  the  eoiitiimanre  of  one  |)artieiilar  diet.  aliiio>I  tola! 
ilepi'ivalion  of  fresh  animal  and  ve^etalile  food  fur  ahoxn 
two  ;  I'ars.  and  tin*  necessary  and  close  eonfniemenl  ti.r 
sr\erid  months  o|' eacli  severe  winter.  "  I  conceive."  ho 
sa\  s.  ••that  a  continued  esposnie  to  the  same  depriva- 
tions and  conliiieinents.  tin*  solitude  of  a  simple  ship,  and 
iiie  painful  moiiotiaiy  of  a  third  winter  to  men  wlioso 
lirallh  is  precarious,  would  in  all  |)rol)al'ility  he  attended 
willi  verv  serittns  c(aise(piences."' 

lint  ho  uoes  tarther.  and  notices  the  inutility  (d'  the 
ineasnre.  l''rom  the  circumstance  of  heiiii,'  detaineil  in 
the  ice  until  tin*  present  time,  tho  Idlli  id"  Aminst.  ••  I 
;iin  (d"  opinion,"  he  says,  "that  the  season  in  which  it  is 
]ios>il)le  to  navii:ate  has  now  so  far  parsed  tliid  nothin'.-; 
material  can  Ix*  (dfecti'd  either  hy  one  or  huih  >.liips. 
We  UiKiw.  from  the  experienct*  ot"  last  year,  that  it  is 
not  litd"ore  the  end  cd"  .\n::ust  or  the  heiiinniici  ot"  S>'[)- 
toinlier  that  the  ice  hreak-^  nj)  in  tin*  Strait  <d'  the  Knry 


]> 


f 


u 


•^**    i 


I 


I    f,l 


l.'iO 


AUCTKJ   \()V.\(;i; 


liii'l   I  Ici'lii.  liiid  tliiit   it    is    lint    iMilil  tliitt    pci'ioil   lliiit    \(m 


Wil 


tf    riialiifil    tu    it'-f\imiiiir    lis   wrslcrii    I'liti  iiiicc 


Ami  lie  \\i>t'l\   (•(iiiclinli's  liy  iidvisinu  tli.it  the  Kiiiy  iiiiil 
lli'clii    iTtiini    lit    l!ti^liiiiil    In^t'tlicr.    wliitli     I'iiiiy    jis 

\viNrly    llr(r|it>. 


I  inlcr  siicll  riifiiiii>liiiic('«;,  lie  siivs, 
I  III!  loiiui'i'  •'••iisidtTi'd  it  |iniil('iil  or  iii<.tirnili|f,  iijiun 
tll»'  slciiili-r  cliiilici!  Ill'  r\('iitiiiil  siii'Ci'>s  iKiw  Im'Ioit  h>. 
tit  I'islv  tlif  Milfty  iA'  lilt'  ((Hici'is  iiiid  Micii  cuiiiiniltnil 
ti)  mv  (diiii;;!'.  iiiid  wlmiii  it  was  now  iiiv  lirst  wish  tu 
iv'CdiidiK't  ill  ^nud  IumIiIi  tu  tlirir  cDiintiT  and  tlicir 
lririid>."' 

Il;uiii:_^   (■(iiiH'   ti)    tlii-i   dt'cisioii.  and   lia\iii^   rxtl'icatfd 
tilt'  ships  litHii  tlit'ir  conrnH'iiit'iil,  nil  tin-  1  Jlh  ol'  Aiijiist 
it'V  stiMid    t»iit    t(»    lilt'    I'iistward,  iiiid    li'i!ill\    tnnk    their 


t) 

dt'|)iirt lire   tuiiii   liiltiiilil 


lit^  ciiirciil    rapidly  hiinit'd 


tht'iii  In  the  stdithward,  llii'ir  drill  lifini:;  twi'iily-nii 
mill's  ill  |\\ ciity-rdiir  hours,  ihoiiuh  cloNfly  i)t  ..ct,  and 
>Mtlioiit  a  sinult'  po(»l  ol  watt'r  in  siiilil  thf  wholf  liiiif. 
At  niic  place  lilt'  ships  wt-if  whiili'd  idiiiid  ti  headland 
at  tilt'  rate  ol"  two  or  ilin'c  knots  an  lioiii 


A  lit 


r  pa.> 


inu  tilt'  harrow  Kivt-r.  they  wi-it'  ilriltfd  out  nine  or 
t<'ii  miles  Iroiii  the  land,  llit^  iiilhieiife  ttt'  this  ii\er  liaviii,; 
prtilialih  thus  set  them  out.  ( )ii  the  .'jdtli  tliev  wi'it> 
fliise  to  Winter  Island. 

"'i'liiis  had  we."  says  Parry,  "in  n  most  sinirnlar  maiiiier, 
oine  iiinre  ari'i'.  rd  at  mir  old  winter  (|iiailers,  w  iiii  scarcrlv  a 
siii^ile  >iiiie»rid  exertion  nil  our  jmits  toward  I'lrectiiii.'  that 
iihject.  'I  lie  di-itaiice  rroiiH  )ni;rn  to  oiir  pie>riit  station  was 
aliniit  line  Imniheil  and  >i.\ty  luiles  aliniu'  the  coast.  Ot"  this 
v.e  had  i)e\  ei-  si/i/r,/  aimve  t'liily,  the  rest  of  the  distanco 
haviii::  heeii  accoinpli-hed,  while  we  were  iiniiio\ahlv  he.-ct. 
hv  iiiere  dritliuL'.  The  interval  thus  einplo\rtl  having' heeii 
haieiy  eiLdil  days.  i:\\f<  an  aveiai:e  drift  to  the  suuthward  ol' 
jdiove  fillei  11  niiles  per  day." — 1'.    171!. 

Jit'iii<;  set  last  in  the  ice  in  proceeding:  to  tlu»  soiitli- 
>vard.  a  slrony  westerly  hree/e  on  the  17th  of  Septem- 
l;fr  allowed  iheni  to  sliapt*  their  course  for  the  Trinilv 
Islands  in  a  perfectly  open  sea.  From  hence  they  ran 
down  lliidsoii's  Strait  without  luet'tini^  with  any  oh- 
-.1  ruction,  and  on  tlie  1  oth  of  (  )ctoher  entered  the  liarhor 
ol'J'ressay  Sound  in  Lerwick,  where  they  ('ii)oyi'(l  tho 
"  lirsl    tract'    t.if  civilized   man   that   tliev   iunl   seen   lor 


I 


ir\    WiTo 


r.M'TAlN    I'AUUV.S   SKCOND    VOYAtiE.  l.'il 

s('vrri-iiii<l-f\\t'iity  iiKdillis,"  Tin'  l\iinlii('>i«i  wliicli  tlicy 
)')'rri\<'(|  I'liMii  llir^c  jiuor  lull  li(i>|»ilalilf  j)(.'nj»li'  i.s  llms 
Iri'liimly  (li'M  rihi'fl : 

••  i  li  r|  ll  iitliily  iiii|iii.«»ilili'  !i(l('i|ii;iti'Iv  to  cxinos  tin-  kliid- 
III-—.  .'Hill  llllflllinii  we  ifri'iM'il  liii'  till'  lllli'c  or  linil"  (lil\>  liiut 

\\i'  ui'ii'  (li'tiiiiird  ill  llrt'fisay  Soiiiul  Ity  u  toiitiiiiiiiinf  ttt  nu- 
t.iMijiililf  uiiiils.  ( )ii  tin-  I'iiM  iiilliiMi;itinii  (if  (Hir  jiriiviil  tin* 
IiriU  ril'  LiTuirk  writ"  M'f  riiiuiii^',  tlic  iiiliiiliiiaiits  llnckfd 
finiii  rvriv  piilt  i»t  tin'  ('(lUlitry  to  r.\|ir»'>s  llirir  jov  lit  our  llll- 
r\|M  I'tt'il  irliii  II,  !iinl  llif  tow  II  \v;i.s  iit  iiL'lit  illuiiiiriMlfil.  as  if 
t' I'll  iiidiv  iilniil  liiiil  :i  lirutlirr  or  m  .-mm  iiiimiiil'  ih.  On  llit) 
Ijtli,  liriiiu'  Siiiiil;iv,  tli'*  oII'k  cis  iiiid  im-ii  ul  Imlli  slji|is  nt- 
t' iiili'd  diviiif  M'r\  ill'  oil  slioir,  wlirii  llic  wiiimIiv  iiiiiii.-.lfr, 
till'   Ki'M'Irlld   Mr.    Mrll/ii'S.    who   \s;i>   Itrtiilf    Wt'll    klluWIl    to 

iiriiiv  .•iiiiiiiiL'  a-',  oiri'ird  II 1 1,  ill  till-  iiiii^I  Mill  Ml  II  and  iiii|irr-vi\  o 
iii.iiiix'r,  a  lliJiiiksL'is  iiiL.'  I'lr  (jur  >iiri'  iftinn,  ;il  tlir  >aiiii'  tiino 
cilliiii.'  ii|iiiii  n>,  willi  iii'i'iit  raiii''.>tiir^s.  iirvcr  to  liir-i't  uliiit 
wi'  iiuril  to  lliiii  wild  liiid  liirii  'iilioiit  oiir  piitli  mid  alioiit 
<■  u' lii'il.  iiiid  who  >|ilrlli  out  all  oiir  wiivs.'  Th"  |if(  iili.irily 
of  tin-  <ir(iiiii->t;iii(i's  niidcr  which  wi-  li.id  joiiinl  ihr  ciuii.'if. 
;.';itIoii.  till-  WMiiiitii  of  li'rliiiLT  r.Nhiliiti'd  liy  every  |H'rsoii  ns- 
Maiilil-i'd  within  tin-  sacii'd  w;dN,  toirclliir  with  tin"  atli-ction- 
ati'  riii'r::\'  of  the  prriicht'r.  <  oiiiliiacd  to  |iroda(<'  an  rtltcf  (tf 
which  wiads  ciiii  convey  Iml  linlc  idi'.'i,  hut  which  will  not 
(;a>ily  he  clJiiccd  fioni  the  minds  of  iho.si'  who  swiv  piocut 
na  this  Jilli.'ctini,'  occasion." — I'.  UK!. 

( )ii  the  1-tli  Captain  Parry  arrived  at  tlin  Admiralty, 
iL'id  tile  ships  were  paid  oil' on  tlie  Kltli  of  Noveiiiher. 

( >ii  lookinsj  hack  al  the  liorrihle  iiaviiration  iVoiii  tlio 
etitianr-e  of  lliidsiui's  Strait  to  Wintfr  Islaiai,  tliroiiyh 
Middlelun's  l''ro/eii  Strait,  akaiij;  the  coast  of  the  land 
which  separates  I'rince  l\e;:eiit's  Inkt  from  l''o\'s  ( 'lian- 
iiel.  and  the  same  villanons  kind  of  navigation  alony  tla* 
-iiiiie  coast  from  Winter  Island  to  l^loolik.  near  tho 
month  ol"  tile  l''mv  and  llecia  Strait,  there  does  not 
appear  to  he  the  Hli^htest  enconraueiiient  ever  to  s(MI(1 
Miiother  ship  to  that  (pnirter,  even  had  the  navigation  of 
that  strait  heeii  always  open,  sate,  and  conxenient,  for  in 
thai  case  it  conld  Jiot  a(li)rd  any  advantage.  It  opens 
uito  a  strait,  anions,'  islands  of"  the  I'olar  Sea,  callefl 
I'rince  lve,'_'enrs  Inlet,  otthe  lower  part  of  which  mith- 
iiiil  was  at  this  lime  knoNvn  heyiaid  Uitiliiik's  infoi-ination 
(correct  in  all  other  parts),  that  it  terminates  at  Akk(»o- 
if.'o,  nearly  (<j)j)o.sile  tu  Jlepnlse  JJay.     But,  liad  it  e.t- 


'■if      ■! 


t'1 


II ) 


ii 


i.'i 


h 

♦  (  1 


I; 

'I: 


lilt  r 

Mil'       ' 


<  I 


h 


.1  ' 


'1. 

,!i  I 
1^. 


ll' 


^r-^ 


i( 


152 


ARCTIC   V0VA(;KS. 


I'' 


Iriidt'd  to  till'  r.)ns\  ot"  Aincrica.  tli»!  isliiii(l>  in  that  ror- 
lUM'  air  so  clustered  ;in.l  crowded  til^ellle|•  as  to  a'I'inii 
ot'  no  |)i'(ili;il)ilil y  o|'  a  iiavii;ali|e  pas^au*'  tlirrc  lor  hirt;o 
hlnps  to  the  west wai'tl,  and  no  man  in  his  senses  wonid 
take  that  hne  (»l  route  to  <j.r\  int(»  Lancaster  Soinid  when 
he  conid  ;;o  tliere  direct  in  hall"  tin*  lime,  and  without 
any  of  tln^  danuer  whi(di  h'ox'^)  ('haniiid  and  the  Tiiry 
and  llecia  Strait  winild  occasion. 

Toward  the  conclusion  of  his  narralive,  Captain  Parry 
repeats  Ins  opiinoii  of  the  ad\antaues  it['  ((ui/iiiiinits  hinJ. 
in  the  navij;ali{»n  of  the  i'olar  Seas,  and  that  the  priiad- 
pl(^  of  coaslinij;  the  nortln'in  shore  of  Ameri'-a  must  still 
lie  caret'nily  kept  in  view;  and  he  adds,  '•there  is  no 
l.iiiiirii  opeiiiiiii  which  seems  to  present  itsell  so  lavora- 
hly  lor  this  purpose  as  I'rince  Ke^eiit's  Inlet."  This 
opinion,  thus  pnhlicly  ;^iven.  is  ohviously  an  indicarion  ot" 
the  expedition  which  ;  ncceeded  this,  and  which  may 
possilily  hav(^  made  somi'  chaiiiie  in  ("a|)taiii  i'arr^'s  sen- 
timents on  this  heJid.  Ample  prool  has  since  heeii  i;i\  mi 
hy  tin*  r(>ports  ot"  KranUrni,  Kichardson.  Uack.  and  siili- 
se(|iienlly  hy  Simpson,  that  the  coast  of  North  America, 
which  is  tli(^  southern  shore  olllie  INilar  Sea.  is  navi^a- 
hle  thronjihont  hut  hy  canoes  oi"  hoats  only,  and  tint, 
larue  ships  (Mmid  not  attempl  it  nnless  at  a  very  cons'd- 
erahle  distance  from  the  shore  on  flu*  sea.  and  outside 
the  mimerons  (diaiiis  of  small  islands  that,  on  iIk*  eastern 
])ui'tio!i  in  particular,  nm  parallel  to  the  coast. 


CATTAIV    G.   F.  LYON. 


153 


niltsiilo 


(MIAI'TKIl  VII. 
(;APTA1\   liKOKllE   F.   LV(L\. 

18:24. 


K'liT/ifirr  of  <i  Vni/itirr  tn  W'litsrr  Uin  r,  or  /irfiii/sr  Tiojf,  t'n 
his  Mnjrs/i/'s  s/i>/i  (iri/n  r,  (iml  //n wr  to  the  Volttr  L'odst 
I'l  Siirth  Ami'rirn  urcr  In ikI . 

Vwv.  ( ii'iprr  was  (•i»iiiiiiaii(lt'(l,  otl'iccifil.  mid  iiiiiiiiUMl  us 

iiiMit'f  : 

GcoriTf  F.  [.V'lii,  r;i|ifiiil. 

I'l'tiT  Miii.ifu,  /  ,        ,         , 

;.         ■    II      r  I  l.iiiitcnniit-*. 

Mr.  Kiiiiliil,  As-ir-tiiiit  Hiirvc  yur. 
'I'liiiriiii--  Mviiii?!.  I'lirscr. 
John  'r<iiii,  Miil-lii|irn:ili. 
Williiim  l.cy-iiii,  .\--l-t:iiit  Snr.'«'<<ii 

1   Oltirrf. 

1  (iiiiiinr. 

7  l'«  ify  (UliciTr^. 

I  ( 'iirporal  III'  Murine-'. 

iJ.">  .Mill'  .<('.iiiiiii. 

41    'I'lital  oil  liOHI'iI. 

This  'mr()m|)lt'(('  vi»\  iiizr  lias  fnily  an  imliiTrf  iclafiori 
III  the  discovery  ot'  a  iiu|-tli\Vf»l  |)a>'s;i^i>.  it-<  -.oIi-  dhjccl, 
liMMii^  IxMMi  t(»  comiilt'lt'  tilt'  land  survey  nl"  flie  casierit 
pdilioii  o|'  tile  iiurtli  co'ist  di"  .North  .\iiierica,  iVimi  iho 
western  shore  of  .^lelvllle  I'eiiiiisiila  as  tar  as  to  ("a|)(» 
Tiirii-aiiain,  where  ('aplaiii  Kraiikrin's  late  join'tiey  ter- 
iiiiiiated.  IJeiiii;.  tlieret'ore.  (•oiiiiect<'(|  with  Aretie  dis- 
('ii\ery,  and  under  the  orders  ol  an  olli-  "r  who  ((uii- 
iiiaiided  the  second  ship  in  Parry's  second  voyaiie.  and 
ilirectiMl  to  )»roce»'d  to  the  same  ixalion  ot  the  Arctic 
Seas  where  he  had  already  heen  with  i'arry.  it  is  deeni- 
cl  riirht  and  projier  to  i^ive  to  this  expedition  a  place  in 
till'  |iresent  narrative:  and  the  more  so,  ii>  it  riiriii>lies 
a  lieaiitil'iil  and  striking  example  ot'ihat  ohedieni'e  to  or- 
ilcrs.  that  calm  and  nncomplainini:  siihinissioii.  incoiii- 
piiiiied  with  pious  •esiyiiation  to  the  I  )iviiie  will  in  iLo 
lioiir  ot'  extreme  dandier,  and  wlieti  the  Jiwliil  iiMimnit; 
01  death  i.s  approaching,  \Niiu.'li,  ull  i^o  cuiispicueus  Ht  thu 


n  t 


h 


1  ^ 
V 


I 


R 


I 


:     / 


5 


'  I 


IT)!  ARCTIC    VOYAGE:^. 

cliiiiactrr  of  JJiitisli  sciiiiit'ii.  arc  fXt'inplifH'Ll  in  this  voy- 

Ill  ol'dt'l'  to  cnect  tlic  nhjcct  in  view,  it  Wiis  dfcidcil, 
as  hriiii:  ^A^^'  i'rail;('>^l  and  most  siniplo  mode  ol  iiidccfd- 
inii,  to  sriid  a  small  vrssri  to  \\'au<'i"  lii\t'r  or  Ivrpiilso 
J5a\  .  Milder  tin'  orders  of  an  iiittdlii:riit  olficcr.  who.  willi 
a  small  party,  should  he  instrnctt'd  [•>  cross  the  Mrlvillo 
I'ciiiiisiila  from  one  or  oilier  ol'  the  a.  ove  -  mentioned 
places,  and  traverse,  hy  land,  the  wotein  shore  ol  thai 
peninsula,  and  the  norihern  shore  of  North  Amei'ica,  to 
I'oint  'I'nrn-au'ain.  ('aptisin  Lyon,  having  lieeii  promot- 
ed lor  his  services,  was  selected  hy  liord  ISatlmrst  for 
this  duty;  and  the  liords  ( 'oinmissioners  oi'  the  Ailiiii- 
I'alty  iia\  i Hi:  appointed  the  ( Jriper.  a  !iiin-hrii,'  of  1  >(»  tons, 
to  rt'ceive  liim,  L'uve  him  directions  to  leave  the  ship, 
dniini;  his  land  journey,  in  charge  of  llie  senior  lieuten- 
ant. 

Iiii:rTr\.\NT  Fkanc  is  lT\Ki»iN(i,  after  pnyint:  oflilio 
( I  riper,  serveil  three  years  as  lieutenant  of  the  Ivspoir, 
then  ill  the  Ile(la,  and  was  made  coinmandei'  in  Ir-.'IH; 
he  served  in  that  rank  in  scni-ral  ships  till  the  year  I -.■;!». 
and  was  |)romot«!d  lo  thi>  rank  of  captain  in  the  general 
promotion  of  1  -H  . 

I*KTKK  M.\M«  <»  was  made  lieutenant  in  1-11,  seived 
in  the  jireseiit  voyage,  and  is  still  on  the  list  of  lieiiteii- 
aints. 

.loiiN  'Pom  was  promoted  lo  the  rank  of  lieutenant  ui 
1^'Jli.  where  he  still  lemaiiis. 

The  (iriper  was  considered  a  very  useful  vessel  of 
lier  class  ;  her  strength  was  pro\ed  helween  the  ice  and 
the  sina'e  of  .Melville  Island,  and  (  'apliiin  ( 'lave ring  hail 
hut  arrived  in  Knuland  in  her,  at  the  ^'iu\  of  the  preceil- 
ing  year.  iVom  a  voyaue  to  Spit/heryen  and  (Ireeiiland. 
She  was  now,  for  Inr  present  \oyage,  examineii  and 
wtdl  titreiiiithened  ;  lint,  on  heiiig  stored  and  amply  pro- 
visioned, was  I'ound  to  he  too  deeply  laden  to  cross  the 
Atlantic  almie.  and  thfiefore  Ins  maieslv's  sui'veving 
vessel  the  Snap,  commanded  liy  Lieutenant  llullock, 
was  ordered  to  receive  a  piatioii  of  them,  and  to  accoiii- 
|iaii>  the  (iriper  uulil  -he  irutlu'd  the  ice,  or  lUTiveil  olf 
Lap"'  <   hidley, 

Thoy  suilt'il  iVoiii  iunijoiitli  KuuUs  on  llu'  luili  ff 


Ins  vny- 

Iccidt'il, 
irnccfd- 
Kr|)lll>n 
ll(t,  Nvitll 

M.'Uillo 
rlitliMifd 

•  of  tliai 
icricii.  1o 

liroiiml  - 
lurst  ttu' 
V  Atlmi- 

1 ,-()  lOIIS, 

lln'  ship. 

•  lu'lltlMI- 

Ml  nfV  \\\>i 
o  Kspnii-. 
ill  lr:;(i; 
vav  1 -••;''. 
iC  gt'iu'ial 

1.  scrvcil 
t"  lit'iittn- 

itnmiit  in 

Vt'SScI     tit 

(•  icf  mill 
riii;i  liiiil 

■    j)l-t'C»'ll- 
I't't'lllilinl. 

liiii'd  iitnl 
ii|)ly  pi"- 

(TOSS    till' 

siirvcvini; 
r.iili.MK, 
111  jircdiu- 
iirri\nl  'I'l 

0   iJlll  I'l' 


V'\'' 


CAI'TAIX    (i.    r.    LVO\. 


l.-.n 


)0 


.liiiit'.  ami  arrivcil  jit  StroiiiiH'ss  on  tlif  .".Utli.  '•  ( )n  tlio 
;',i\  nt  .Inly."  ( 'aplain  Lyon  s;iys,  ••  wf  lioistcil  in  two 
\('ry  piiwcii'iil  lilllr  ponies,  procnrrd  at  Ivirkwiill.  the 
(iiily  two  on  the  island,  and  \vhi(di  had  hren  sent  iVoiii 
Slii'lland  to  an  (  Mknoy  laiid  ;  oim>  was  I'oily  inches,  tin* 
utlier  lhirty-ei::lil  in  iiei;:lil."  They  also  leceived  ii  I'iil; 
( uw  and  eiiilit  sheep  I'oi"  the  ciew.  The  poor  cow,  it; 
".reins,  refused  to  eat.  and  was  therefore  killed  for  pres- 
ent use;  hn!  the  ponies  pro\ed  hotter  sailors,  walked 
alidut  the  ship  as  familiarly  as  lame  do^s,  and  improved 
la  their  appearanct*  daily.  ( )n  e\aiiiiniiiii  the  bays  of 
|n'iiiniicaii,  to  their  i^reat  inorlificaiion  i^  was  foniid  'lat 
liic  ■  I  had  melted,  and  that  the  water-proof  rum/tc/ionc 
\\a<  ;Mi;';inu;  in  a  clannny  state  throiiLih  the  canvas. 

The  Worst  ot'all  was,  that  the  slii:;;;ish  (iriper  re<piir- 
I  :|  to  he  loweil  liy  the  Snap,  till  a  strong;  hree/e  and  ii 
licMvy  swell  tor  two  days'  continnancc*  obliued  the  for- 
iiicr  to  cast  oil",  when  she  shipped  so  many  tremendous 
s.'as  that  it  hecame  necessary  to  hriiiL'  her  to  under  storm 
Niav-sails,  which  was  the  more  mortil'viiii:  on  tthserviii'' 
licr  companion  to  he  perfectly  hy.  In  short,  ihroii^h- 
iiiit  t'.e  whoU^  passime  across  the  Atlantic  the  (Jripcr 
WIS  ohliifeil  to  he  toAVed  hy  the  Snap  every  second  or 
ililrd  day,  without  which  she  could  not  lia\('  made  any 
|iro^ress.  ()ii  the  .'id  of  A  n!_Mi>t,  however,  the  two  ships 
made  the  ice.  coiisistinii  of  her^s  ainoiii;  the  tloes  ;  when, 
accdrdin^  to  the  instructions,  they  heiian  to  remove  tht> 
St  lies  and  provisions  out  of  the  ."^iiap.  by  wlfudi  the  decks 
III  the  (iriper  were  completely  crowded.  L\oii  says 
tile  Lianiiw  a  \s.  forecastle,  and  ahaf't  the  mi//en-ma>l  wern 
lillcd  with  casks,  hawsers,  whaledines,  and  streain-ca- 
lili's :  the  lower  deck  crowded  with  casks  and  other 
xinr:  s;  not  a  place  jell  \acant  except  the  mess-ialiles  of 
llie  men.  Thus  Ininf  'red  and  hron^hl  down  deep,  her 
sailing  ipialities.  had  enonuh  lu'foie,  were  now  expectpj 
to  lie  mnch  worse.  ll  was  foniid.  al>o,  hy  ohseixatiojj, 
that  lor  two  da\s  they  had  been  e\i)ose(l  to  tin-  unittul 
in'ce  of  the  strony  currents  from  |)a\is"s  and  J I  ndsou'H 
Miaits.  toward  ihe  latter  of  wliich  they  were  approacll- 
iMi:.  (  hi  the  Itli  of  An::n!*t  tin*  Snap  parted  comjiany,  l»» 
pincMi'd  in  the  tarther  e\eriitioii  of  h'T  seinices. 

On  ihc  Utli  thu  Lini>c"r  Imd  i4ii»ioucliod  Kfsulntiua 


li'r 


\i 


iH 


ir)0 


ARCTfC    V0YAGn?5. 


;  'i 


fsliiml.  tlif  son  rovcnMl  with  lodsc  liciivv  ice.  I)ii1  tlif  d;iy 
(Ifscnhcd  as  Invt-ly,  and  llic  skv  l>ii!li;iiil  :  yer  tli"  iii'ill- 
iaticy  iiiid  lov rliiicss  wliirli  siirnmiidrd  ( 'aplain  Ly(»ii 
wcic  not  siirCicifrit  tti  ixrvnit  hiiJi  lV<»iii  *•  y irldiiiii  tu  a 
sfiisalKtli  of  l(»iM'liiM'>«s  lit'  liad  iicvfi'  »'\|)«'nfii<'('d  on  ill 


loiiiicr  V(t\  nijc 


I  Idt  most  torcil  !% ."  lit*  sa\  s.  '•  tli 


want  ot"  an  ai'fom|iany  niu  sliip.  il'  not  to  lii'l|)  us.  at  li'ast 


to  liii-ak  till'  doatli-likt'  stilJiH'ss  of  tlio  sfon 


\ 


o  Woil- 

(liT  at  tins  tffrini:,  wIuti  all  tlio  lircuiiisluiKcs  ol"  liis  po- 
sii ion  arc  foiisiil«'rc<l. 

It  Miiist  indcod  l»i'  owned  that  tlit^rc  was  a  niori'  timii 
iisnal  want  of  pnidoncc  in  siMidiii!:  sudi  a  small  and  sliiy- 
yisli  ship  alono.  through  a  iia\  i^ation  which  had  luww 
pi'ovfd  and  condemned  as  one  ol"  the  most  diliicult  ainl 
daiiiieroiis  t»t"  tile  many  iliKicidt  tines  that  occur  in  tlin 
part  of"  the  Arctic  Seas.  The  old  \nyat;t'is,  it  is  true, 
proceedetl  in  ships  much  interior  in  si/e  and  streiiiith  \n 
the  (Iriper;  yet  they  lartdv  naviuated  t'lW»s<i  seas  alone, 
and  not  nnrretjiieiitly  with  iliree  or  Itmr  in  compan\  . 
( 'aptiiin  liyon  says,  however,  that  he  wjis  ampiv  coiii- 
peiisHted  for  want  ot"  a  more  extensive  -ociety,  '•  l»y  lia\- 
iiii:  the  happiness  ol"  knowing  that  I  hail  fil'licers  aiitl  men 
wilh  wlitiin  I  was  coiirnleni  til'  coiitinniii;:  on  the  iiio>-; 
friendly  terms."  Twti  days  after  lliis  the  ship  slriHK 
on  a  rock,  and  the  heavy  and  continued  shocks  herji  I 
her  so  mncli  that  the  commander  •*  im!ii:iiied  she  was 
turning  ovt-r."'  She  mii:ht  hint'  ^iiiie  down,  in  which 
case  Lyoirs  "ample  compen^alitin"' wonkl  have  heen  ei 
little  use  in  this  miiiihabited  and  tlesolate  part  id"  ili 
ijflnlie. 

The  cfiiistant  >-hippinL:  of  sens  and  the  continued  \s  >  ' 
wcfirher  had  rendered  every  ihini:  within  the  slii|)  ••  veiv 
(lani|i."  The  two  |»onies.  therefore,  with  the  ducks, 
jji'ese.  find  fowls,  were  handed  out  upon  the  ice.  where, 
the  ijiplaiii  say.s,  ••  they  presontcd  a  mo>t  novel  appeiir- 
nnce.''  To  eiilivni  ihe  scenf.  alioiit  sixtv  l!stjiiimaii\. 
men  HM(1  women,  in  kayaks  «nd  uomiaks.  \isited  tlM> 
stnumers.  matle  ii  lond,  screamini;  noise,  and  hronjlit 
with  them  some  tridiii'j  articled  of  l.arfer.  chiedv  weap- 
oti<»  find  skin  clol  Ih'S  ;  and  our  captain  s.ivs.  ■•  I  hlnsli 
vlnlfi  r  reliiti'  if.  t\\r)ut  t*i.>  I'u  •  se\  actiiallv  liispoM'il  ot' 

lh«'ir  nether  i,iu'meiits — ii  j»ioco  oi  tmloiMjmm  1  hud  ii"  ■ 


tlif  (lav 
I.--  l.nli- 
III  Lynn 
liii^  til  ;i 
(i  nil  llii> 
vs.  "  tlif 
.  at  li-asl 
No  Wnll- 

it'  his  ji'i 

lOl'l'    lllllll 

;in(l  sIiil: 
had  Im'i'ii 
ririilr  aii'l 
iir  in  tliH 
It  is  rnu", 
n-iij:tli  1" 

'US   llliilll', 

iMiinpaiiN  . 
iply  ciiiii- 

••  liy  liii\  - 
s  and  iiK'ii 

tlu'  ni<»^; 

lip     Sl  fill    K 

^    hr.'l.-t 
>\w    VVII-. 
II     VvliU'l' 
llCfll    I't 

1    of    till- 


III 


km]    \Sct 

|)  ••  very 
(•  diicKs, 
,  wllfir. 

iippi'iir- 
|iiiiiiaii\. 
ilcd    t.ln> 

Itl'niiullt 

K'  wciip- 
I   Mii^h 

>pti^('il  ivt 

hud  II'"  - 


C.M'TAIN    C.    r.    I.Vo.V. 


157 


(  r  lit'loif  witiu'sx'd."  TIh'it  was  no  iici'd.  iKtwcviT.  (if 
l)lii->liiiiU.  :.ti"  ill  ill"'  same  iii'i'^hltorhuod  I'any  was  uHit- 
ri|  ilir  same  thin:;,  hiii  his  lilii>hes  were  >piiied  on  liiirl- 
iiii:  tlial  the  lady  Wore  a  dniilile  set.  I^yuii  must  havt* 
liii'ii  present  when  I'arry's  l!|iishe>  were  spared. 

Net withstainhiiu  the  (Jriper's  ihili  saihn;:.  they  cnii- 
tii\ed  ti»  jiet  her  past  ("harles's  Islamh  l)ii:m's's  Island, 
a:Ml  ("ape  Wolsleiiheim  hy  the  'JOtli  of  ,\ii^nst.  aiii.  two 
di\s  alter  saw  the  hi;:ii  land  ol'  Si>'ii!;ampti>n  Isiaml, 
<»H  ('iipe  I'eliihroKe  their  eoliipasses  Were  I'liUlid  to  lie 
(jiiile  useless  with  the  ship's  liead  to  the  soiithw  ard.  and 
Ml  powerless  that  the  north  point  stood  wherever  it  \v;is 
I'liii-ed  liy  the  linuer,  hiit  with  the  ship's  head  to  the  noith- 
w.iid  they  all  tiiuersed  a^aiii.  This  has  heeii  always  a 
((instant  eoiiiplaint  within  the  .\r(  tic  ( 'ir(  le.  and  paiticn- 
liiiiy  near  to  and  lietween  the  two  northern  iiia;:nelie 
pules.  It  is  a  snhject  oi"  such  ixreat  importance,  and  has 
excited  so  much  interest,  and  lor  the  last  live  years  has 
lirt'ii  so  extensively  iiKjuirecl  into  experimentally,  that 
flii're  i-  every  reason  to  hope  the  principles  ol'ierrestri- 
:il  iiiauiietism  will  receive  a  satislacterN  elucidation,  as- 
sisted  hy  the  oliserv  atioiis  conducted  under  the  direction 
ol'  Captain  Sir  .lames  Uoss  in  the  southern  aiitaK  tic 
scMs,  Hiid  also  hy  those;  which  Sir  .lohn  l-'ranUlin  haa 
lii'cii  instrui'ted  lo  maUe  on  his  |.>r<'sent  voyage. 

Ciiptnin  Lyon  siij:^ests  whether  this  wildiiess  in  tho 
ciiinpiisses  m;iy  not  In-  caused  hy  the  nhsi  ini  ol'tlie  snr) 
or  tlu'  presence  of"  the  aurora.  .Mr.  Kendall,  li<'  say>), 
oliserved  tliat,  diiriiit;  the  prevalence  ot' a  lirilliant  miroru, 
the  liirlioard  liiniiacle  (•(inipa--s  w  oiild  remain  stationary' 
at  no  particular  |)oint.  w  hile  the  siarlioard  one,  hy  ;i  heur- 
iii::  ot"  tho  polo  star,  hail  Jesseiicd  its  usual  ej  ror  two 
points. 

As  Taptain  \,yr>r\  wn«i  takin/  his  \v«ll\s  on  sIioib,  ho 
fill  III  with  a  little  incKJeiit  which  ^ave  expression  to  a 
^cn'inii'iit  of'  thiii  Uiiidly  feelinii  he  was  known  to  po«- 
sc--.  Hiid  which  \\\<  own  words  will  he^f  <'onvey,  T?h 
^Vll•,  crossiiiii  an  l-isipiimaiix  biiniil  place  : 

*■  Neiir  ihi  hn'irr'  t.'rave  \va8  a  third  pil"  of  iifniirn,  covoviug 
till'  hoilv  of  a  cliild.  wliicli  w:is  coiled  up  in  (lie  canic  Miiiuiicr 
[  I-  the  utile  rj.  .\  ■<iiM\\ -liiuiliiiL'  li.iil  foiniil  i's  w.iv  liii<>i|^h 
Uic  l()0«e  stom  s  whit  it  fou»|'oi*c»i  ihid  \\\.\\'   loiui),  and  it.s  luivv 


I  .i,  \ 
111 


i; 


i 


l.-.H 


ARCTIC    VoVA«;i;S'. 


fc>r>;ikcii.  tit"'ntK--liuili  nc^t  w.is  tiniuii  |il.ic('il  on  llu^  wik  nl 
llii'  cliilil.  \>  llir  >.iic'\\ -liiiutiiii,'  li:i>*  ,'ill  till-  ili>tni-.lic  \iilii<'. 
Ill  iiuf  I'.iiu'lili  ri'illir(',i--t,  il  li.is  ,ilv\;ivs  Ihtii  nin^idcml  1(\  in 
;i-i  till-  rcilnii  nt  tlii'sc  (lir;ir\  \\  iliU.  miiiI  its  li\t'l\  cliiip  .iiul 
ti'iii  li'-,>,  cinitiili'iHi'  li;i\r  ii'iiili'|-('c|  il  ii'-|ii'(ii'(l  li\-  llir  iii(i-.t 
limiu'iA  s|)iirl>iii:iii.  I  « itiilil  iml,  on  this  occ'isiiui,  \  icw  il> 
lilllr  iii'st.  |)l;i(C(l  nil  llii>  IdiMsl  (if  iiit;iuiv,  witliiiiit  \\  i-liliii,' 
t!i;it   I   |iiwsf>^ril   till-  |iii\\fr  (it    |iiicll(:ills   cxinf^iiiL,'  tlir  Iccl- 

inu-  it  fxclif.l."'  —  I'.  t;;;-(;'i. 

Tln'  liiitlii'i'  tlicv  |tr(i('iM'(lt'(l  to  tlic  ii(»rlh\v;ii"(l  ii|i  tin- 
Wt'lcKiiit'.  tile  iimiT  slii^^isli  iiiid  irr»'milMf  llu>  coiiipiiss- 
rs  :;(»|  ;  iimi  Lyon  (jiiolfs  ,-i  piissjiiic  nut  ot  Kills,  in  In-, 
nccoiiiit  of  |)ol»l)s"s  t'\|nMlitiitii  ill  til"  vciir  1  7  I'i,  to  sluiw 
lii!il  tlifv  wore  tlio  sMiMc  ;il  that  tiiiic.  A  tliicU  I'o^  iind 
a  lii'avy  sea.  ami  no  Iniiil  to  hi-  scfii  nor  iiiiy  ttaist  to  In- 
plact'd  in  llio  coiiipasst's,  ami  wiliial  tlit*  waltT  siiiillow- 
iiiii ;  llic  ship  not  al»li>  to  lace  the  sea  or  Ut-cp  stftTauf 
way  on  hiM'.  ('aiMain  Lyon  says:  "I  most  rohictantly 
lironuht  lnM-  up  with  tiirfo  howcrs  ami  a  siroani  anchor 
in  succession,  luil  not  hcloro  \vc  had  sliojiicd  to  live  and 
a  hall"  lalhonis,  the  sliip  |iitcliin^  l)o\\s  under,  and  a  Ire- 
iiieiidiMis  sea  ruiiniiii:."  In  this  perilous  condition,  i^- 
iioi;'nt  in  what  direction  and  liow  distant  the  land  iniulit 
he.  and  nmler  the  dread,  moreover,  that  the  railing  tide 
(I'roin  twehe  to  litteeii  I'eet)  would  most  prohahly  occa- 
sion the  total  d"struction  ol"  the  >hip  in  order  to  pro- 
\ide  fur  such  an  unl'ortunate  event,  the  loni;l)oat  was 
])r«*|iared  to  he  hoisted  out  witli  tiie  tour  small  ones,  jiiid 
ordered  to  he  stored  with  arms,  ammunition,  and  pro- 
visions ;  the  ol'licers  drew  lots  lor  tlleir  respective  ho;its. 

*  Oil  ri'Miliiu'  tlii'<  (i;i>.-;i;:c  Id  nil  aci'diiiiili-lud  Imly,  r-lw  t<:iicl  Au-  till  .i 
i1i'>;ri'  f(i  try  wint  s'u-  (•(HiM  dd  witli  sci  intin  •^till-:  m  sutvjrct  in  tlii'  \\:iy 
WinliivJ  lur  liy  ('ii'Iiiili  Lvdii.  aiiil  iiruilucrd  tlic  liillowiiiu  liiic-i  ; 

TO     Tin;    SNOW  lUMINC. 

"  5»'.-i  f  Iiirii  1   the  I'Ti'iist  ot"  iniiocriu'o 
ll;ilil  lailili'-s  charilis  tor  line  ; 
Altliniull  till'  ^|li^iI  loiu  lliis  lied, 

And  lit'i'li'-is  clay  it  lie  : 

llion  dr.'iiili'st  not  to  dw.ll  with  .(o.itli, 

Sociiro  t'loMi  liariii  or  ill, 
Vvr  on  all  intaiit'.s  In  art  tliy  nost 

U  wroiu'lit  witli  r(iU'lf''.<  !ik\\\. 

And.  like  our  o\\  n  I'nniiliar  liir.l 
'J'hai  si'i'k-i  tl;r  hum m  tVand. 
Tti"n  <-\>r,  r'-t  III.'  \»  111(1.  riij  -rritiv.n'<  dh.M-r^tfl 

Witii  buuie,  lua  luiii  luul  i  tic)."~-Ci£ujioiA>A. 


('  ii"('k  <il 
tie  sirtii'- 
•rrtl  li\  iH 
('liir|i  aiiil 
•  llir  IIIM-I 
.  \  irw  il- 
it  \vi>liiii^ 
-   till'  I'cfl- 

rd  \l|>  till- 
(■iiiii|t;i--< 
\\\<;  111  111-- 
I.  to  show 
•k  I'o;:  mill 
ni>t   In  111' 

!•   sllilllllW- 
>    stt't'lM'."' 

fluct;itill\ 
III)  ;ini'lii)i' 
(t  live  iiiiil 
and  it  t II'- 
iditinn.  iii- 
Miid  luiulit 
I'idlinu  tidi- 
Illy  uccii- 

'|-   lo   jlflt- 

)ii;it  was 
(iiii'<.  and 

and  l»i'i>- 
iv(>  lmal>. 

ill  till'  \\,iy 


(  \n\i\   «;.  r.   i,\()n. 


1.')}) 


mid  till'  •'hip's  ciMMpaiiy  nci'f  stafiniicd  tn  tlinii.  '*  Kv- 
f\\  idlicfr  and  man."  says  llic  caiitain.  "drew  his  lot 
with  tin-  i^iralfst  (•(»in|)osiir»'.  allhoiiL:li  two  of  ihr  lioals 
would  ''.ivr  Iti'i'ii  s\\ain|M'd  llio  inslanl  tlirs  wrro  |o\v- 
cird."  Ill  tho  iiioaii  tiiiio.  iho  heavy  soiis  roiit  iinird  to 
s\vi'i'|t  oviM*  till'  ciowdcd  ili'ckN.  (  )ii  the  wcallirr  cli-ar- 
iiil:  a  litllf,  a  low  licarli  was  d;sco\ci  od  all  I'onnd  astrni 
nl'  till'  ship,  on  wiiirh  the  Mill  was  niniiiiiL:,  to  an  awful 
liri::ht.  and  **  it  appcaird  hnt  too  )>\iilfiit  that  no  jinniaii 
|ioufi' could  savt-  lis  if  diivoii  upon  it."  At  this  inonii-nt 
till'  sihp.  hciii'^  liflfd  liy  a  ticiiiriidoiis  sea,  struck  with 
'^rcat  violence  the  whole  ieiii^th  ol'  her  keel.  This  was 
iiatnially  conceived  to  he  the  I'oreriiniier  of  her  total 
wreck.  The  decl^s  \s  ere  coiiliniially  and  ileeply  llood- 
cd  .  for  IweniN  tour  hours,  it  is  slated,  most  of  the  men 
had  iici  left  these  decks,  and  the  (  aplaiii  had  not  heeii  m 
lied  for  three  ni::hts. 

In  siudi  a  hopeless  case,  ('aptaiii  Lyon  did  that  which 
;:  riuhl-minded  liiitisli  naval  olficer  never  fails  to  do  on 
the  a|>par«>nl  approach  ot'  the  ^isi  extremity.  Iiiit  it  is 
due  to  him  and  his  hrave  seamen  to  descrihe  their  sitiifi- 
tioii  and  conduct  on  this  trying  occasion  in  his  own 
words  : 

■•  \llhiiiii,di  fi'w  or  iiitiir  nf  111  liad  aiiv  idi'a  that  wi-  siiiiiild 
survive  the  L'ale.  we  did  imt  tiiiiik  llial  oiii"  <'niMti)rl^  slinuld 
111'  elltiri'ly  lieulected,  :illd  :in  eider  vva>  llnietliif  Lliveii  Id 
the  men  to  |iiit  lai  their  hest  and  warnie'^t  cluihiiiL'.  tn  eii.ili|i> 
iIk'Iii  to  siipperl  life  as  Inji:'  a--  piis>ilt|c.  l',vei-\  man,  tin  re- 
tine,   liroiiL'hl   his  liaL;   on  deck,  and   ilre-M'd   him>ell';   and   in 

the  liiii'  athletic  Ihrnis  which  si I  e\|>iised  het'die  me,  I  did 

net    s >iii'    mnxle  t|ni\er,  inir  tlii'   sji-litest  sii'ii  ot    alaiin. 

rile  ulVicers  each  secnred  >iime  ii<etiil  instnimeiit  aiioiil  tliciii 
titr  the  ]iiir|)osi's  el"  (il>si'|-\  atinii,  allliiiu_'li  it  w  as  aekiidW  leiLjcd, 
hv  all  that  not  til'  sliL'lile>i  liii|ie  ii'iiiaiiied.  \nd  imw  tl;at 
evcrv  tliiim  ill  iiiir  |)ci\ver  ha<l  lieen  ddiic,  j  called  all  liaiiil.-» 
iilt.  and  to  a  mei'cilnl  (iod  tillered  pravers  ter  our  prr-erva- 
linii.  I  thanked  r\('i'\  niic  tiir  thrir  t'\<f'||rnt  ciiiidinl.  ami 
cautioned  them,  as  we  should,  in  all  piolialiilitv,  mmhi  appe.tr 
bi'jiire  our  .Maker,  to  eiilei-  his  |)ri"sciice  a-«  jmn  ie>i_;nii|  to 
llieir  fate.  We  then  all  sat  dewii  in  ^iiiii|i>.  and.  sl.rliri  eil 
frem  the  wrish  of  the  ».e  i  li\-  whilevi-i-  we  cnuld  liiiil,  manv 
til  iH  eiideavered  to  ohlaiii  JV  liltle  Hlei'[>.  N-Aer^  peih  ips, 
V  as  witnessed  a  IhnT  scene  than  «m  tin*  deck  f>t  mv  liltle  f>lii|i, 
wiicii  all  hope  ol  hi-  had  lett  iis.     Nubie  iw  tin-  tharucier  of 


'i: 


':  -i 


1/ 


Ill 


100 


ARCTIC    VOYAGKH. 


tiic  I5riti<h  siiilin'  i>  ;il\\;i\s  uiluuni  to  Im-  in  cjim'^  ut  (l;iii:;fr. 
yi'I  I  ilid  mil  litlicvf  it   til  l»r   |iits>ilil«'  tliiit.  iiiiiniiL;   lnrly-uiir 

|iCI>(lll>.    IKit    line     li|HllillU'    NVciIll     >lniul(l     ll.lVf    lircll     lltl.tlCil. 

'I'Ijc  ollicfi's  s.it  Jiliiiiil  w  licrcM-r  liii'\  iniihl  iind  .^lullcf  Iroiu 
ll'  -c.i.  .'iiiil  liic  ini'ii  la\  (Idwii  ciiiiN  t'r>iim  willi  fiich  otln  r 
\villi  llic  iiiii,-t  |irrli(t  ciiliiim^s.  r,,i(li  \v;i.>  iit  |ir,irr  w  itli  li:^ 
ii''ij|||)iii-  iiiui  all  the  Will  Id  ;  and  I  am  liiiidy  |iiT>uad('d  that 
llir  irr<if.'ii!itii)ii  wliicli  was  llini  slmwii  tn  tlio  will  (if  tlic  .\1- 
iiiiurlitv  was  the  iiirans  dl'  ulitairiiiiL.'  [lis  Jiicrcv.  (ittd  irn.i 
iiirrcitiil    ti)   us;    and    tliu    tide,    aliuusl   iiiii'a('uliiii>lv,   Icll   an 


Dwcr, 


!),  ;;u. 


'^i'lit'V  wi'i'o  .savrd:  iiinI  tlic  pliico  of  tlicif  cxlfciiit' 
diiiiiicr  was,  jis  spcfdily  as  |)(issil)l«\  tist'citaiiu'd  hy  oh- 
scrvatioii  to  he  in  lat.  (i:{  :{.')'  IH",  Ioiilj.  H(i-  .'}•,»'  U'",  and 
it  was  very  pioporly  named  tlio  Jiiii/  of  doil's  J\fi  ra/. 
On  the  t'(»u  clcaiin^  away  it  was  loniid  to  he  iinnu'diatcly 
in  tlio  ctMiter  of  thf  AV'rIcnnic.  Tln'v  now  discovert  d 
that  their  iVesh  water,  on  the  1th  of  Septeniher,  was  sn 
jLjreiitly  rethuod,  thai,  in  tlieir  present  condition  and  the 
situation  of  tin-  sliip,  \u)\u'  coidd  he  alfnrded  for  the  piior 
little  ponies  which  had  snrvi\ed  the  storm;  they  were 
ihereforo  ol)li:;(Ml  to  he  sacrificed  ;  their  hay,  besides,  hud 
been  all  thrown  overlioard  in  the  storm. 

( )n  till'  IJth  of  Sepleinlier,  when  they  had  arrived 
opposite  till!  month  of  the  Wa^er  Kiver,  and  between 
it  and  Southampton  Island,  a  iiale  of  wind  arose,  ami 
Avith  it  also  the  sea;  the  diilMIriper  now  made  no  pro_'- 
ress,  but  "  remained  actually  pit(drini:  forecastle  under, 
with  scarc(dy  steerajie  way."  C)ne  alternalive  alone  re- 
mained, HU(\  that  was  to  briny  tlie  ship  np.  "  We  found 
thai  the  unchors  held,  altlioui;h  the  ship  was  dipping: 
bovNsprir  and  forecastle  under,  and  taUiiiy  >,fi'eeii  seas  over 
nil.  Thick-fallinii  sleet  covtM'ed  tiie  decks  to  some  inches 
in  depth,  and,  withal,  tho  spray  froze  us  it  ftdl."  To 
iidd  to  their  aii\i(!ty,  two  or  three;  streams  of  ice,  with 
<1eep.  solid  pieces  Hinoiiii  them,  wore  seen  in  tho  eveii- 
iiiij  to  bo  driviiiii  down  upon  the  ship.  '^Fhe  nitiht  was 
piercinyly  cold,  tlm  sea  washed  the;  decks  fore  Hiid  afi, 
constant  snow  lell,  the  lower  decdv  was  alloat.  the  men'.-' 
liammocs  tliorongiily  soaked,  and  the  poor  fellows  could 
g«'t  no  I'est. 

**  Stiver  sliall  I  fiir^'i't  tbf>  diof\rine*3  uf  ihia  Umy-t  eiiTinu.'i 
niglit.    Our  ship  piiched  dt  sutli  u  rute  tliul  it  Wiie  nut  iju.-ci- 


ir 
till 

^ 

n 

if 

titl 


i'  il;iiii;fr. 

t'nl  1  V-tilir 
I  UlUTCll. 
■llcr   iVnlil 

;i(li  (illn  r 
!•  with  li> 
lllih'd  tli:it 
of  tli«>  Al- 
(i()(l  ir'is 
ly,    IfU    11" 

cxtrfiiit' 
(>(!  l)y   t)l)- 
■j'  0  ',  and 
'•,s  Ml  rrii. 
iiii«'»liiitcly 
Jlscovcird 
cr,  NViis  s(i 
i)U  nml  till' 
ir  the  ixtdf 
tlicy  wcif 
I'sidos,  hint 

liid  iirrivi'd 
\  bctwccii 
iii'ttsf,  itiid 
('  no  proii- 
silc  uiidfv. 
•  ult'iit'  rc- 
\\'(>  rouiul 
!is  dipjtiii:! 

II  St'ilS  tlVt'T 

OIUC  ilicllf:* 

tVll."       T" 

f  ict',  with 
I  till?  rvcii- 
»  iiiiilit  AViis 
f  Hiid  fill, 
tlic  tiit'ir.-' 
loNVs  cuuld 

jdsf  Biixiiins 
at  nut  ^>i)^ci- 


r\PT.\i\  (J.  F.  7. vox. 


1(11 


Me  111  stnnd  rvrii  Itcluw,  wliili^  nil  dfck  wc  wcro  im;dilt>  to 

Ili.i\»'  withullt  llii|(hlli:  1>\'  rii|ii-s.  whirh  Wflr  ^llrtchrd  lioiil 
s|./'i'  tu  .-Idr.  I  lie  (hill-.-iiM\\  tlcw  ill  >ii<h  >iiiii'|>,  hi'iivs  ll.iUfs 
lii.il  \M-  (  iiiild  Mill  \nit\i  til  wiiidwioil,  :ind  it  liu/r  mi  ih  rk  Ut 
.•i',Mi\r  :i  jii'it  ill  di'l'lh.  The  si'.i  iiiiidi'  iiici'>>;iiit  liirachcs 
(|  I'll'  I'lii'i-  Jiiid  .ill  till"  -hill,  iiiid  thi'  triii|iiii-;iry  \\  aiinlh  it  L,'a\  i- 
wliilr  it  wa-hril  over  ii^  was  iiin^t  |iiiii!iilly  ihrckt'd  liv  it.-* 
al|ii'i>t  imiiirdialclv  IV<'<'/iir_'  on  (iiir  clntlir*.  To  tlif^r  dis- 
iiiiiiliii'ts  WfTc  added  tin-  hurrililf  micn-taiiitv  a>  to  wlirtlicr 
till'  cahlrs  wuidd  hold  iiMtil  diivli^'lit.  and  th<'  convictidii  also 
iiiit  il  thi'V  tailed  us  we  sliniild  iii-<laiill\  lie  da.'>lied  tii  pieees, 
liii'  wind  Idowiiiu'  (iiii'i  lU  t'l  the  {|iiailei'  in  w  hii  li  we  knew 
)i;e  >lii)re  liiu^t  lie.  AiiailJ.  >llinld  tln'y  eiMlliime  to  Imld  lis, 
we  leared.  \>\  t.he  >l/i|>">  (•iiiii|»laiiiiiiu'  mi  iiim  Ii  rurwai'd.  that 
the  hit--  Wfiiild  lie  tiM'ii  n|i,  nr  that  ^lie  \SM,ild  settle  down  at 
l;i  r  anchors,  ii\  iT|iiiw  eicd  hv  -ome  nl  the  Ireiiieiiduij,-.  seas 
wllicll   liMI-st  nver.'"— I'.     Illl),    IDI. 

The  liiifi'icjiiio  foiitimiiii::.  it  I'Jiii  hctter  he  iiiiiii:iiM'd 
tliaii  told  wliiit  kind  ot"  ni'^lit  lliey  were  dduiiied  to  pa^-^. 
'•I  never  htdield."  says  ( "ii  plain  Lyon,  ••a  ilaiker  lli^llt."' 
\t  dciwii  on  the  l.ltli  the  liest  huwer  iinehor  purted,  iind 
llie  '^iilc  hlew  with  siieil  terrilii-  vidleiiee  as  to  leave  littln 
rea-«oii  to  expect  tliiit  the  otiicr  iitudiors  woiild  hold  lon^:. 
Ill  short,  tho  prospect  w;is   now  most    perilous  and  pit- 

lal.le. 

••  \1  (i  \..M.  all  tinliier  duiilii^  mi  this  p  ii  liciilaf  pdlnr  \\('ro 
III  an  end.  Inr.  haviiiL'  ri'ceiveil  twd  d\  eiw  lielniin::  seas.  Iidtli 
Illl'  III  her  cii  lies  we  I  t  at  the  same  itidnieiit.  and  we  w  ere  left 
li'l|ili'ss,  willidiji  am  hiirs  dr  ;my  iiieaii>  nl'  ■~a\in_'  mi7>r|\es, 
>!i  iilld  the  >lii)ie.  as  we  had  e\i'rv  I'ea-mi  ti>  expecr.  he  cldso 
..'>'eni.  \lld  hei'e  aLrniil  1  IkhI  the  liapp;iie->  nf  w  itne^-^iiijT 
lii  •  same  i/eiieral  t  ram  |M  ill  its  a^  w  a>  -h'lwn  mi  the  Is'  nf  Sep. 
tiiiihei'.  Tln-re  was  nn  diitcrv  thai  llie  (•aliIi->  Wi're  ^/mie; 
hit  mv  (Viend  Mr.  .Maniro,  witli  .Mr.  (';irr.  the  L'tiiine?*.  (•;iiiie 
,l!l  as  -iimi  a'-  thev  renivered  their  1  'L's.  and  in  the  lowest 
'v.ii'-pcr  intdfiiii'd  ine  that  the  cahli's  had  all  pai'led.  Tlii'! 
^il:|l.  ill  trendiiiLT  to  the  wind.  Ia\  (juile  duwii  dii  her  iiiu;iil- 
-i'l:':  and  as  it  iI.m'h  Iiecaine  e\iilen1  ilia!  nnlliiii'j  lieli]  her, 
.11!  1  lliat  .'•he  was(|ii!le  h.'lple.-s,  einii  man  iit-tin(ti\  i'l\  tmik 
ii  -  -1  ill. 111.  while  the  .-ramen  at  til"  h'a.l-,  havid:;  -enned 
t!iriii-el\i's  a<  well  i>.  w.is  in  their  puwer.  repealed  their 
s  1  -.rl 'liL."*.  ei|  wli'il  dip'  pi'e-;i'iTat;mi  di'peliileil.  willl  aS 
M  nil  (•<i!lind--iire  a^  if  n\  ••  hid  heeii  eniM'i'i:!  a  ll'elidK  puft 
lT''!-i'  a'.'a'ii  lliat  Mmi^litv  juiwi  r.  wli  rli  liarl  jp.  Inri'  «■>  iiirr- 
Ciiujly  nie>fn«'(l  I i.~,  ff ranted  n-  Ins  protection."— i*.  10,'.  I0:{. 

■  a  U2 


I 


M 

'\  « 


I 


>.H 


I 


Nl 


h 

T' 


i  ,1 


I 


.; 


' 


'/ 


Kl'i 


AKCTIC    VOVACJKH. 


Tlu'V   Wi'Vf  slill,  liuwrNtT,  ill    II  \<'|-y  iiH'IfilM'linly  run- 
lliliMli,  rxiircliii'^  r\  r|-\    iiiniiiciil    I  o  -.1  rikf.  Iitnl   nut    liitviiij 
tlir  It'iist    iilnt  wlicn-  lIli'N    liml  iiliclii'ird  (i|'  wliric  tlif\ 
imw  wriT  ;   r\riy  inpi'  win  iiiciilslnl  witli  a  thick  ciimi 
illi:  nt    icr.  llic  ilt'cks  so  (Ircply  coNcml  witll  iVn/.rii  sihpw 

ami  tVcr/.iii^  i'l'ii  watt'ia^  to  iiiiikf  il  Nciircrly  piosililc  Im 
sIiiikI:  ami  nil  liiimU  hi-in^  wi-t  and  liiiH' tVu/rii,  withuii' 
Iiiiuiil;  liii'l  liny  n-lii  >liiiM«iit  luc  si»  many  liuiirs,  "uiii 
hitiiatinii."  >iiy>  tlir  caiitaiii,  "  was  ihiiiIciimI  iiiisi'iiildc  m 
llic  «'\tit'iin'." 

••  III  tlif  at'tiTinKiM.  liaviiiLT  well  wciLrlirtl   in   mv  niiiid  n'i 
till'    (•ircuiii'laiiir'i   1)1'  Mill-  di-ilri'»rd    -iliialinii.    |    liinii'd    t||. 
hands  ii|),  and   inioi-nird    iliriii   diat,  ha\ini.'  imw  liwt  all  hi 
hiiwrr  aiM'hnrs  ami  <liaiii>,  and  hrniL.',  in  ruiis('i|iirrMf.  aii.ili  i 
t'l  hiln:,'  n|i  in  anv  pai't  ul'  dii'  Wricfanc  ;   hriii;,'   cxjinscd    i" 
llir  -it.-  fit   a   iiiinnidiiit-  tidi'\\a\   ;ind  cnnslant   ht'iivy  LiaJi-, 
<aif  III'  which  wa>  now   ia|pidlv  >\M'i|iiiii.'  ii-  hack  In  tlir  mhi" 
ward,  and  hrin:.'  yrt   ahnM"  rlulity  iniirs  tinin   Ifi'iml-i'  I'.iv 
w  ilh  till-  -hnrc-  IradliiL'  tn  w  hiili  \m'  wcit  iinac<|naintrd  ;  n  .■ 
riiiii|)i--t   n-i'li'--.  ami   it   hciiiL'  ini|>i>ssihli'   tn  nintinm'  niul^  i 
fiail  with  aii\  dc'jirr  nf -ali'ty  in  ihrsr  dark  twclvc-hniir  iulIi'-. 
with  the   tun  iil'li-ll   r  \  |ii'rii  lici'd   <i  ■iMaiiitv  tliat  the  >llip  cnllM 
Tin'     heat     nlV  a    |ri'--llnrf    even     ill    iniiili  i-dfr    Wi'lltlirr,    I    ll.n! 
ilrtcriniiii'd.  in  inaUiiiL'  .-niithim.'.  tn  clear  tin-  iiarrnwM  nf  tin 

\\  I   Icniuc,   alicr  V\  llicjl    I   -hnllld    dicidr   nil    .-iiliif    plan    Inlnn 
luTUl''  npiM  alinn-." — 1'.    iD'i. 

7'ln'ir  >itiiatinn.  imlml.  was  u  liopclt's.tt  diic  :    withmi! 
Jlhthnis.  and  with  'i  rripplnl  ship— (•oiiipasscs  which,  m 
stfiid  uf  i^iiidiiij.  niily  tMi'-liMl  tlimii-   wiiat  plan  cniild  li  • 
di'^i-id    tn    piir-iii- ?       'I'n    apprnacli    the    slinii-    was    tli> 
lirst  -ifp  !n  till'  (ii'>lriictinii  nl'ihr  ship,  ami  in  thai  f\i'ii'. 
to  land  ill  a  >iinw-('n\ri'i'd.  ll'n/iMi,  and  drsnlatf  cnihit  i  \ . 
pindiiciii]^  iinlhiiiu  i)[  Iniid  I'm-  man,  and  di'stitiili'  nl  hu 
itiitii  hciii'^s,  wtiiild  hi-  fipially  and  iii)>\itahlv  drstnaliofi 
tn  rvi'iy  li\inu  crfaturn    that   nii'^ht    ha\('   cscaiird    I'lncj 
tin*  ship.       Twn  attcniati\«'s.  thnffrnrr.  nliK    wrrr   Idi  : 
t^ithrr  tn  <Midi'a\nr  tn  k't   the  slli[)  llna!  witll  tlU'  sniitliri- 
ly  ciii'fniit.  with  what  sail  Aw  cmild  carry,  tn   lliid-nn's 
Ihiy,  nr   tn   cniitinin'   a   direct    cniirsn   fnr    l".iiL:!aiid.      In 

Cniisldtilli:    his  nriicri''-   what     thry    cniivadcrrd     lir>I     tn    Im 

ifniu',  they  indi\  idiiall}    aii>wt'i'c(l    that,  deprived   us   Im' 
ship  wa>  III"  amluus  and   miicii  nf  her  slnie-,  with    lli' 
litlU^  rt'liitiico  tu  b(5  ijliico(l(«iithe(i)iii|nthses,  liu'V  iliou^l'i 


\1 


Y 

1  \" 
I 

CAl'T.MN'    <i.     I".    lAOS. 


]i\;i 


\\ 


lidly  ntii- 
inl    IdIMIi^ 
llflC    tllt'\ 
lllcU  <'ii:i' 
l/.l'll  >lll  A', 

|l(l>sill|l'    t" 

II,  witliinit 
(IMS.  "  (iiir 

IsiTuldi'   III 

IV   iiiiiiil  ;<" 

tlll-IM'll  til' 
|u-l  illl  nip 
licr,  llliiili  I 
i'X|Kisril  Im 
IfilVV  Llitli- 
11  1 1  If  XillH. 
l'|ll|ls('     I'lilV 

iiiiiilrii  ;  mil 
tiiiiH-  mill'  I 
-liiMir  iiL'li'-, 

•  -liii)  (iMilil 
ithrr.    I    lii'l 

lows  (it  till 


ail  tof  (iiii 


\VI 


tllMllI 


wliicli.  in- 
iti  cdiild  li'- 

I-  WilS  till' 
tllill  CM'll'. 
If    Cdlhltl  V  . 

Ililti:  nf  liii- 

Itlcslriifliixi 

ajifil    iVniu 

\\f Vf  It'll  : 


f  SDiitlir 
lliliU  'I 


■  iL^tilllM 


hot    1(1    li'- 
|\f(l     iis     111" 

with    ill'- 


tlif  l>t'<t  fit  Im'  (Idiic  \\(»ii!(l  Im>  t(»  n'tnrii  to  I'lirjliiiid  witli- 
(iiii  liuilicr  r|i'lii\  :  ;i  ((iiii^f  \mi>  sliiipfti  iiccfd  (liii;:l\ . 

'I'Ih'  VdVirjc  Mldiiu  this  rii-tcni  citjist  ot  Ndrlli  Aiiicii- 
r;i  li<is  lifcii  trifil  iiiiiiiy  tiiiif .  tiiid  iilunys  tniiiiil  nidir 
(ir  Ifss  ilisiislrdiis.  It  IS  II  I'diitr  iittfrly  Vdid  dt'  iiitcn  st 
III  tlif  lifst  dt'  sliips.  in  tlif  lifst  d|    Wfatlirr.  and  in  tlii< 


Ih'nI  n-irl  dt  tlif  sfiisdii. 


I 


iirr\  .  w  itli  Ills  twu  w  ( 


II  fill 


|UI| 


iiit- 


prtl  slii|i>.  WHS  teased  mid  haiii|)eied  with  ilif  tidafiii^ 
III',  the  Id^'s,  mid  the  ciineiits.  which  the  state  dt'  his 
(■■piii|iiissf s  :ilsii  iiiiide  siill  iinn'e  f inhaniissiiii^.  |!iit  dt 
tills  liiinissiiii;  iiuvi^iit idii,  ill  the  presfnt  iiistanre.  nulhiii^ 
iiiMjf  need  he  said,  as  iidtirnii:  tail  her  dccnrred  en  the 
return  passa.e  that  re(|iiires  any  iidtiee.  iinlfss  it  hf  ihi* 
iiitercMurse  they  lanl  in  the  lower  part  dt  the  \\ flcdnio 
V.  itli  a  party  el  l']s(|iiiiiiiiii\.  whosf  rharaeter.  so  dillir- 
f  lit  t'ldiii  that  L'eiieially  dt"  this  milil  and  (|met  race,  is  no 
iliMihl  truly  esplaiiied. 

••  I  cdidd  lint  hut  cuiii|iaie  t!if  hni-,|riiiiis.  iiiii->v.lat  till'iw(4 
\sliM  were  almiLrsidf ,  in  f  X'fllfiit  caiiuf-.,  willi  Wf  ll-lunii.-liiil 
ii'iii-lii-ailfd  Wfapiiii>  and  liaiiilMHii''  <  lutliliii;.  vsilli  the  [mhiV 
|)r(p|ilf  Wf  had  -ffii  at  Siiiitliaiii|it"M  l-laiid;  llif  lattii  wi»h 
ilaii'  spf ar-lif ad-,  ainisss.  and  f\fii  kiii\fs  nl  clnpiifd  thiit, 
williniit  caiiiif-i.  wiMPil.  or  irnii.  and  with  llnir  tfiit-<  ami 
c  'I'llii'S  tnll  ft'  lid|f».  \  f  t  dt'  mild  maiitifr-.  (|iiii'l  in  >|iifi  fi^ 
ami  a<  L'ratfl'nl  tur  kiiiiinf-'<  a-  thfV  Wfif  an.xinus  tn  ifluni 
it.  while  lhd<e  nnw  almiL'sidf  had.  pfihaps,  s(;n. dy  ;i  viiiiu' 
}'li,  iiw  iiiL'  td  tlif  idjufi-y  thfv  liaii  Ifanifd  liniii  tlif  ir  aniiii.il 
Vi-il.s  to  the  liiiilMin"s  l'.a\  .-liiii-.  \ii  air  ir|  .saucy  iiidi')'»'Mit- 
iiiie,  a  iiidsl  clanidriiii-.  dfinand  l"r  pifsf  nts,  and  sivfial  at- 
tfinpt.s  at  tliftt.  siiiiif  dt  w  ha  li  wiVc  .-iiccf -slul.  wcif  llnir 
!••  nliii::  cliai  ai'tf  li-tir-i.  \  rt  |  -aw  nut  wli\  I  -lidiild  rmi-t  iliHe 
lii\  -fit'  thf  (fii-dr  lit  tlif-f  pddf  sav  aLTfs  ;  and  diir  liai  tf  r  wu.s 
•»»  runlinirlv  cdiidiictfd  in  siuli  a  inaiiiif  r  u.-  Id  miiili  tlicm 
\rry  ,.,,iiMdfrahlv."— I'.    I-.'.'I.   I-J:i. 

NdtwithstandiliL'  the  indill'eretit  '•Iiaiactff  )ierf  jii\t'!i 
fn  this  trihe.  (  'ajitaiii  Lyon  allows  them  cred.t  lur  cun- 
s'.di'rahle  iii:;eiiiiit\  .  ''Ndthiiei  new,"'  he  sa\s.  -'wa-s 
Sffii  iit  this  \isit.  it'  i  e\cept  a  nidsi  in^ienidiis  pieco  of 
carviiiir,  I'rdiii  the  i^rinder  ef  ji  walrus  :  this  was  a  vtTV 
.M'iritod  iinU-'  iiunre  nt'  a  do::  U  ini;  down  hjkI  uiuiwitm  u 


hli 


n  . 


U  I 


1 1 


i^' 


o .  'v<^.> 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  {MT-3) 


/. 


// 


ii^. 


ii 

-^A 


K 
^ 


7a 


' 


1.0 


I.I 


1.25 


!;:itt  IIM 

I  ^i  Ilia 

u 

U    iill.6 


'^^ 
0%^^      \ 


^W 


'/ 


Hiotographic 

Sciences 

Corporation 


23  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  NY.  14580 

(716)  872-4503 


i^ 


C^r 


./: 


lot 


ARCTIC  vov.\(;i:s. 


hiMic  ;  ;iii(l  ii!l]i()iiuli  nut  iiincli  iilmvc  ail  iiicii  in  IciiL'ld. 
til:-  aiiiiniil"--  ui'IicimI  cxprc-'^iiin  \va>  ailninalilr.""  ■  Mr 
atlds  lliat  liicy  pi'uiiircd  a  I'l-w  IimIi-  //•'//•'/  ixdrs  wril  {^\- 
rciitc'l. 

'\"\\r  |)a>;sa'^c  to  llnulaml  |)r(i(iiHT(|  niittiiiiLl  n'lnai'ka- 
It'c  :  the  (iiipci'  arnvcd  at  I'drtsiiKuitli  on  the  Intli  oi' 
Nov  fiiibcr.  I'»'i-  crew  nincli  •'viiaustcd  liytln'  sc\  cnt  y  ol' 
the  \\<'ai  li('i-  aiul  wa^li  of  tlw  sea  oxer  the  slii|):  and 
tlircc  wi'i't'  sent  to  the  h(),s|)ital.  ('a|)tani  liyon  tlin^ 
r.oncduflfs  his  narrative  : 

••  'I'llll-  riKi-  till'  jiiurnal  of  our  lIll^iK'crS'.ild  rxprdilinn, 
I'lclnri'  I  t;iki'  li':i\i'  cil'  iiiv  ri':idi'r>.  I  lio|ii'  I  iiiaN  lie  ;i||ii\\  cd 
tip  iiKd\c  a  li'\v'  iil)-ri'\  a'ioM-  rc-iiccliiiL'  niv  ^lli|Mllat(•s,  -imiiumi 
a>  widl  ii-  nliim-.-..  wliu^c  condact  on  all  occoidiis  wa-  mkii 
a^  to  t'lnilli-  ihciii  to  the  \\ai'ii.c'>t  |irai>i'  I  can  lll•^to\\.  I 
Jii;i\  will]  tnilli  a--r|-t  llml  tliiTc  iirMT  wa-  a  lia|i|)!i'r  linii' 
coajiiiiniilN   tliau  that  a--i'mlil''d  on  hoai'd  llio  (li'i|iri'.      \'.;\v\\ 

Slice liiiLT  (lav.  and  cich  escape  I'l-oni  ilidicuitie-,  seenieil  to 

liiiid  n-  nmre  .-li-iaiL'lv  1o::edier;  ;ind  1  am  prond  to  ,-.;i\  ,  tliii 
diirin.:  the  wlnli'  mI'  mo'  \o\-ai:e  iieillier  imin-liinent.  enni- 
filaiie,  inir  e\eji  a  di-pnte  ol'ans'  kind  ocenrred  aiiioni:  ii.-."' — 
r.    111. 

Tlic  narrative  id'  this  imsiicccssru!  voya::('  disphiys  a 
line  rxaiiiplf  of  iiiaiilv  rcsohitioii  under  the  inost  d;>- 
fressma  diKiciiltit's,  and  ot'  pious  resiiinatioi:  to  the  l)i- 
viiie  will,  on  the  ])art  (d  lioth  oMicers  and  ineii.  at  a  time 
■when  a  fatal  crisis  appeareil  to  lie  incv  itahlc.  It  is  one 
of  the  many  c  ises  in  whiidi  the  devoutly  ndiL'ions  cdiar- 
aclcr  ol"  our  I'ritish  seamen  is  eiiiinently  conspiciKMiv. 
and  wliich  ne\('r  fails  to  unard  them  against  despmiden- 
v\ ,  ihoiii^h  snrroiindeil  with  dangers  and  dd'hcnities  sncii 
;is.  to  men  imacensloiiicd  to  them,  would  he  apt  to  cre- 
ate de-pair.  W'lielher.  in  t he  present  instance,  the  cril- 
iciil  ey(»  of  a  thoroiiLihdjrcd  scamaM  miulil  <»f  iiiiulit  not 
discover  something:;  approacdiin^i  to  indiscretion  in  con- 
dnctiiiL:  lli*'  navii^ation  of  the  slii|)  dnriiiL:  a  dense  to::, 
with  comjiasses  inactive,  or  actinu  only  to  deceive,  nii- 
knowini:  in  what  direction  the  land  lay;  wliether  it  was 
judicious  to  let  u'<»  Jill  tlie  am  hors  at  once — -these  are 
j)oiiits  that  are  to  lie  decided  only  l»y  nautical  men  and 

*  'rill-  spirilnl  oi-ijiiiil  <it'  t!ii>  l.llli'  ("unirr  w;is  urr-i'tii'ii  !>y  ( '.iiit'iiii 
J. Villi  Id  till'  writ  T  III  tlii-  iiMiTiitivi'.  iiiid  is  truly  an  iii.'riiidiis  |iii'ci'  I'l 
i'ar\  iiJ^'.  tliuiii;li  tlic  vvouil  (.'iij,Tiiviii^  i.--  I'ar  iVuiii  iluin::  il  ju.-rticL', 


-^        llr 
well  t.'\- 

(•niiii'k;i- 
Idtli  III' 
■vcnty  nl 
:u|) :  :iiiil 
villi    lliii> 

<])r(l'itiii||. 
(•  ;illnwti| 
•S,  -rallli'll 
u;i>  >urll 
lr^t^\V.  I 
i|)irl-   lin'if 

„•!■.     r,:i<-ii 

SCi'lin'll    tn 

It  ,-il\ .  lllll 

li'lll.    cnlil- 

(Vispliiys  ii 

ItlllSl      <!!  — 

(»  the    !>i- 
.  ill  ii  t  liiii' 

It     is    dlH' 

i(tiis  c'liai'- 

;|)i('U(>l|v. 
«j)()llllt'!i- 

tu's  siirii 

)t  to  crr- 
tlir  ci'il- 
mi^lil  iiiH 
111  ill  c'oii- 

I'llSC    toLi. 

•rive.  Uli- 
lluT  it  \v;i< 

tht'si^  ill'' 
iiifii  ainl 

,1   !,y   ('i.!it:.:tl 
loils   (liccr   I'l 

-tirc, 


CAi'TAlV    C.     r.    LVOV. 


1(5 


)0 


1)V  !i  (lirt'cf  Uiin\vlc(li.'c  ot'  all  ilic  circMiiii'-tiiiifos  existing 
III  the  tiiiit".  'riiiit  which  is  licrt'  to  l;c  iii>-ci'\cil  ii|ii(ii, 
r>|)fcially  hy  a  l;iii(Uiiiaii.  i'^  tin'  ciidI.  tin-  uiilliiirhiii::, 
llir  (tlii'dn'iit  (Ifiuraiior  ot"  tlic  iiicii.  ami  ihc  >It'a(ly.  iiii- 
(ll-Illl  licil  <'nli(llict  ut'  the  nliiccis  :  tlirx'  aiT  the  .s||l)|r(  Is 
iiiiilci'  (•uiisi(i(.'i'ati(»n,  and  wliicli  aii'  (Icscrv  iiiu  ol'  tlir 
'lii^hfst  (lt'L;ifc  oi  aihiiinit imi  anil  |»raisc.  'The  iliawm^ 
III  lii!>  !(>r  the  chiiicc  (if  boats.  '•  two  nl"  which  must  iii- 
culiilily  havo  swamped  tht  moment  tlirv  wcic  Icl  diiwii 
into  the  sea."  and  thi'  cool  and  orderly  manner  in  wliidi 
every  mail  l)roiiL,dit  up  liis  hai;  and  dressed  hiniselt"  in  his 
iiest  clothes,  to  take  leave  ot"  this  world,  are  traits  prcii- 
liar  in  the  (diaracter  ot  J>ritisli  seamen,  not  to  he  i'oimd  in 
any  other  class  ot"  men.  and  are  worthy  ot"  all  admiration. 
The  shi|)  is  con  I  mend  ei  I  hy  the  cajitain  lor  lierslreiiL;lli, 
Init  condemned  tor  lier  sliii:i,'isli  and  had  sailing.'  ipiaiities. 
She  appears,  indeeil.  to  have  been  utterly  unlit  to  cnii- 
teiid  with  this  worst  ot"  aH  pnssihle  iia\  illations.  tlmiiLih 
she  had  on  imtre  than  one  occasion  to  contend  with  the 
ny  seas  of  the  Ai'ctic  roiiions,  both  in  the  Polar  and  the 
Spit/,beri:en  seas.  But  however  tit  a  ship  may  be  to 
encounter  those  seas,  it  certainly  is  not  tittiir.:,  when 
employed  oil  |)eculiar  service,  tlnit  any  ship  si  oiild  b{^ 
sent  into  them  alone.  The  smallness  ot'  her  size  Is  no 
iibjection.  (  )iir  old  navii^atois  were  content  wi'li  barks 
1)1  tell,  lit'teeii,  up  to  titty  tons'  burden;  but  then,  as  be- 
liire  stated,  they  wore  rai'.'dy,  it"  ever,  sent  alone;  two 
or  three,  and  t're(|uently  iiiore.  t'oniied  their  e\|)editioiis 
ii'.'  discovery,  and  the  reason  is  oi)\ioiis  ;  a  sinMJc  >hip 
wrecked  in  those  seas,  whose  coasts  are  tiniulaibited  bv 
liiimaii  beiiii^s,  must  entail  certain  destruction  onthelitc! 
ol'  ev(  ry  creature  on  board.  There  yet  remains  to  be 
Inlil,  in  the  course  ot'this  narrative,  another  instance  ol" 
the  miraculous  escajie  ot"  a  single  sliip.  sent  nearly  into 
the  same  (p.arter.  and  tor  a  similar  piirjiose — an  over- 
si::lit  wliicli,  it  is  to  be  earnestly  Imped,  may  ne\e'" 
ai:aiii  be  repeaied.  The  people  (»t'  Mnnland  know  the. 
value  ol"  their  seamen,  and  never  ;L',rud;:e  the  expeiiso 
vvhiidi  is  tiiirly  and  honestly  iiestowcd  on  her  navy,  tin; 
soul  of  whiidi  IS  Ih'I"  seamen,  whose  lives,  were  it  only 
oiii  of  mere  policy,  onulit  not  lieedlessly,  or  i'rom  u  inis- 
takea  I'ruuiiliiv,  to  be  endan::ered. 


t  I 


mT: 


I    I 


'  I 


T 


J: 


IGG 


ARCTIC    VOYAfJES. 


f 

!     I. 


I'ntv. 
H.  P.  rrii]iiitiir,  ("(iiiiiiiaiiilir. 


Jlor.'l'lios.  Au^tlll.  t 


I.ifUti.naiit.-'. 


ClfAPTHIl  viir. 
PARRY'S    THIRD    VOYAGE, 

for  /hi'   T)i<:rorrni  of  n  Xor/li  ii-fsf  J'</ssa<rr    from  fhr  Alhmfic 
to  Ihr  l'(ir/Jir,  in   II.  M.  s/ii/JS  llvrlu  dinl  I'lirij. 

Tin;   two  ships  ii])i)()iiit(Ml  lor  this  scrvirc  wcmv  tho 

siimc   ;is    oil    the    tonnoi'  voviiiM'.  Imt    Piirry    ihiw   took 

(•oiiiiiiMtiil    ol'    the    llfclii.    and    I  loppnor    of   the    l-'iiry. 

TlicN'    ^v('|•<^    coiiiniiiiiiu'd,    oliiccri'il,    iiiid    iiiiihikmI    as 

'jiidor  : 

Tin;   iri-.cLA.  I 

Wil!i-im   tiilwiird  I'iirry,  Ciiptauil 

aliil  ( 'i/iiiMianili'i'.  i 

J.  I, and  Wyiiii,    y  I 

Ill urv  I'o.-tir,      ) 

Saiiuirl  Ni'ill,  M.l)..  .■^ur!,'coii.  i 

\V.  II.  llodiMT.  i'urscr.  I 

Willi.iiii  Itowhiud.  Assist,  .^urir.  i 

1'.  li.  .M.  ('ro/i,r,     1  Mid.-liii)- 
Cliarlrs  Kicliards.    I      uicii. 
ilor.  Ntl-oii  IJcad,  J 

n  Olliccr.s. 

.laiiit's  Ilarri-oii,  Clrrk. 

.1.    HfotlKT.s,  ( iillllnr. 

W'illiiiin  ."^iMitli,  iloatsuaiu. 
(icurirc  l''id(liH.  ('iir|ifiiii'r. 
.loliii  .Mlisoii,  (iri'riilaiid  ^rastf^r. 
(ico.  (.'liainpiDli,  ( Jnciilalid  Milti.'.  "j^  Warrant  Otticf-rs 
()  Wiirraiit  Olticrrs.  '-l-")  Srainrn  and  Marine.". 

4.T_  Srani,  11  and  Marine.^.    ■  j,;,,  '|-„t.,i  „n  i„„„.,i, 

(i'J  Total  (HI  liiiar.l.  | 

Any  tiling  approacliiiiij;  tlio  shapo  of  an  apolo^ry  ffoin 
Captain  I'iirry  hiinscU' will  bt;  dconicd,  as  it  ou^ht  to 
bf.  siipcrduoiis  ;  nor  will  it  be  thouiiht  necessary  that, 
on  the  introihictioii  of  his  narrative,  he  should  be  calh'd 
upon  lor  any  explanation,      lie  says  : 

"  i  have  ,(»nsldcr('d  it  ('X|irilic]it  to  avoid  all  iiiiiiiitc  and 
te(']iiii(  a'  dt'scriptloii  of  our  first  season's  o|i(  rations,  which, 
\vlia1r»  cr  vexation  they  inav  liave  cost  oursrlvcs,  would 
pniljahly  liave  atlorded  Uttle  interest  or  auiusemeut  to  the 


.Ta.s  ClarivcUos.s,    3 
A.  .M'l.arin.  .-^nr:.'i()n. 

Janus   lllllsr.  I'lirsiT. 

'i'liomas  }!ill.  .V.-sistant  .'^nn.'cDii. 

(  has.  (  riiinii  \\  ailii,  ,.  ' 

,.  ,  I  w    J  C      linn. 

J-.duard  I'.ird,  ) 

"D"  Oilier  rs. 

William  .Md-i:,  Clrrk. 
.Tames  .Nliiiire,  (iunner. 
AVilliaiu  W'liilwdrtli.  JSoatswain. 
Charles  rnri'ur,  C.'U'penter. 
(li'or::e      CravNl'ord,     (ireenlaint 

Master 
Thomas     1  ■       Msoii,    Creelilauil 

Mate. 


Ihr  Alldvfic 
W(MV    tllCi 

now   took 
the    I"' HIT. 

iiiiiH('(l    as 


iiiiiiaiiilir. 
I.ifuti.iiaiit.-'. 

)n. 

rr. 


C     null. 


rk. 

iicr. 

til.  ])()Mtswai)i. 

jpiiitti-. 

1,      (ilTciilaliil 

111,    (Jrccllliiud 


e.", 


)()I()^y  from 
it  oufilit  to 
'ssiirv  that. 
Id  he  cullcil 

iiiliiutc  and 
ions,  Nvliich, 
h'cs,  woiilil 
lut'iit  to  the 


PARRY  S    TJIIRD    VOVAGC. 


1G7 


piihhc.  ]ntli,«  crninista.uvs  attrn.him  ,„„•  srcnml  «.a<on'^ 
navi.-atioM.  a.i.l  ,,arti.M,l;,rly  tlin....  ,vlal,n..'  tu  il,..  |n>s  of  ih,'. 
i  u.v     I    hav   .I.tummI    it    riirl,,    j„    ,.„„.,    „„„.,.   j^^,^^   ^^  _ 

'■"".■^"''■',■'"7."".  ""■  """•  I'.Hi.h  that  111,.  |n..>  u\  on..  ,.t  Ins 
aia.lr.tv  >  .^ilips  IS  oi  rvrnt  too  .MM-inus  tn  I„.  |i:..h!lv  ,liM,o„..l 
"'■  "'"'    ••"   ."";  ""'"■'••  'i>'"    I  '■-Mill    11, „.  alon,.  ,l,;i„.t',o   to 

li-  ''"^^•••^-no,!  /,.,,|,, ,1,1  oxi.rtinn.  of  (■:,,,, ,1,1  [(•,,,;, niaiHlrr] 
""I'l"'"''-  "".'■.  "thrrt-s  an!  i„r„,  on  i|,;,t  o,ra>i,,„. "_/„/,,/. 
ihirl/mi,   [),   .\iii. 

('oMMANOKK    If     p.  ir.„.PN,:R    sorvo,]    as    liontot.atit 
with  1^    rrv  n.  tho  Ah-xatHh't-.  a,„|  al^o  as  li.Mit.-.ia.it    in 
I  ari-y  >      vo  prcc.Mlnii:  voya-os.  i,,  ;i||  of  which  lio  was 
roiisaloivd  an  ahhs  artivo.  and  /oaloiis  niXwov.      1 1,,  had 
liH-ndoro  workr.l  his  way  to  iho   rank   of  .■o.n.nandrr 
'•  lo  (  oninian(h-r   Hoppnor.  wlio,*'   savs    |>ar''v     -has 
■"•'•n  my  constant  companion  from  the  u-rv  connncnc<«- 
""■nt(.t   those  cntcrprisos.  |  t\-cl  .-v.-rv  pos-.ihl.>   ohfi-a- 
"""  <or  his  steady  and  pcrsovorin-  zeal  in  this   s,>rvicc 
"I'd  1(M-  Ins  a.Kico  and  assi.stanco  on  ov.-rv  occasion."       ' 
Ln:rTi;,v.\.NT  Fostkk  is  lii^rhly  spok.ni  of  hv  Captain 
I  'in-y  -  tor  th.>  various  and  multiplied  hianches  of  use- 
In!  .sci.'iice   to  whi.di   his  attention  was  at    all  times  di- 
n'ctvd:"  and   h,.  adds,  -our  oI)servations   upon  atmos- 
Pli'-nc   ndractions  m  liioji  latitudes,  and  on  the  diurnal 
variation,  and  cliani:e  of  intensitv  of  tlie  ma-Mietic  needle 
iH-ether  with  Lientenant   roster's  experiuients  with  a,! 
mvarm,,),,   prudnliim.   have   |„.,m   communicated   t..  and 
'■''■"I  '"•'•."•e  the  Koyal  So,-iety.      ||,>  was  als.,  lirst  lieu- 
''■"''"1  "»  tlH"  ll.-cla.  which  carried  I'arry  to  Spit/hei-en 
;•:;    '"^ '<"<"'. q.t    to   reach    the    |>ole.      Ife    accompained 
luvernii:  an.l  .Sahinc;  in  the  (Iriper  to  Spit/I,,., -en  and 
.■'•'•enland  in  ]s>;;.  ,md  proved  a  most  useful  ami  intel- 
liiicnt  assistant  in  the  p.nidiilum  ohservations.      Hi^  |„.t 
service  was  tiiat  (.f  co-operatiiur  with  .Mr.   IJovd  in  lev- 
•■liii-  across  the  Isthmus  of  Panama,  when  he  wa.  1111- 
l"rtuniit(dy    (h-owned    in    the    Piver    ("lia-res.      P,v    his 
'l'':ith  the  service  wiis  deprived  of  one  of  its  most  .rs.'fiil, 
ii''i''.  itnd   scMMitific   naviirafors.  and  his  loss  was  felt  and 
d*'.-ply  lamented  l,y  all  who  had  the  pleasure  of  his  ac- 
'l"""itance.      His  (diaracler.  in    fact,   was   estal.lished  as 
iinioiii;  the  first  sci(Mitilic  ofticers  of  his  time. 

Ln:rTi:v\NT  .Iamks  ('i,\iiM:  Poss.— To,,  m„,.|i  can 
not  be  said  111  prai.se  of  this  youii-  olficer,  who  worked 


1 ' 

i 

d    ■■ 

1  \ 

* 

Nil 

< 

if 


I         !<    i 


I    I 


(ImI 


4 


lf 


i^ 

1 

108 


AliCTIC    VOVAGE.'J. 


liiiiisrlt'.  ciitii-cly  liv  his  own  fxrrtioiis.  I(»  the  rriiik  of 
lit'iitciiiiiit.  ;iiiil  l»y  Ills  own  sclt-limirlit  iic(|iiii'(Miit'iits, 
wliicli  rxtriiilfd  lo  t'vcry  (icpiirtmciit  iil  sciciici',  lic^ 
!iiTi\('(l  !it  lilt-  liii^lit'sl  s1c|)  ill  tlic  service  (short  ut'  tlie 
(liii:)  :   hilt  iiiiirr  1)1'  hull  hciTJirirr. 

Lir.rii;\.\.\i'  IIokaiio  T.  Aistin.  iifter  (listiimui<h- 
iiiL:  irimscll' us  Mil  iihlc  uHiciT.  iiiid  hiiviii^  luitch  ^nod  uiul 
iict:\('  service,  received  liis  proinet ion  lis  captain  in  l.~:i--, 
und  is  now  captiiin  of  the  Williiini  and  Mary  yaclit. 

liJKi  'ri'.v ANi'  .losi;i'ii  Siir.i{i.ii.  Iiy  his  iiood  service, 
raised  liiniselt'  to  tlie  rank  ol'  captain  in  1-41,  and  re- 
ctjived  tlie  honor  ol"  l\.  I  i. 


lie  |)nii 


lie,-  r 


arrv  savs. 


are  vei'V  hi^hlv  indehted 


to  Dii.  S.wn  i: I,  Ni:n,i..  who.  in  addition  to  his  profes- 
sional (hities.  <'nlirely  snperinte'ided  the  piihfic  coHec- 
iioii  of  specimens  ot'  iiatinal  liistoi-y.  and  has  furnished 
a  variety  of  iinportant  ^eolo^ical  n(»tices;'"  and  lie  I'l-- 
fers  to  tli(^  ZooloLiical  Appendix  hy  Lieutenant  Koss  as 
'' i  nrnishini:  ample  evidence  of  the  attention  paid  hy 
that  m'ntleman  (Neill)  to  this  department  of  science,  in 
addition  to  the  iminediale  duties  ot' his  station."" 

I"'.  Iv.  M.  ( "!{o'/,ii; li,  midslii;)nian.  a  most  /.ealoiis  yoiin^ 
ctflicMT,  who,  hy  his  talents,  attention,  and  eneriiv,  has 
sncceeded  in  workiii::  liimself  up  to  the  top  of  tlu^  ser- 
vice, lie  was  lieutenant  otthe  Ilecla  in  I'arry's  Polar 
voyage,  and  volunteered  with  ("aptaiii  .lames  |{(tss  to  j:o 
ill  the  midst  ol"  winter  into  tiie  Arctic  Seas  tor  the  reliel" 
of  the  missiiiiiwhale  ships;  was  made  captain  in  i  •*  11 , 
and  commanded  the  second  ship  in  ( 'aptain  .lames  Ross's 
Antarctic  Kxpeditioii,  and  is  now  second  in  commaiid 
witli  Captain  Sir  .loliii  Franklin. 

John  Uk;  vroN,  the  colleamie  of  ("ro/ier  in  this  vov- 
aii<\  arrived  at  no  hiiiher  step  than  that  ot"  lieiiteiianl, 
and  is  now  serviiii:  as  such  in  the  ('oast  (itiard. 

(".  I\i(  HAKiis  and  lloK.viio  Xklson  Ukak,  iiiidslii|)- 
iiien,  do  not  appear  on  the  list  of  naval  ollicers. 

l>KKKi.i:v  Wi:s'iHopF,  midsliipmaii,  was  iiiado  a  li«Mi- 
tcnaiit  in  1  ^'^ •,'•'),  and  rtill  continues  so,  liaviiii;  let't  tho 
navy  lor  a  civil  employment  in  the  Humane  Society. 

Kowvao  Jlian  appears  on  tlu^  list  as  a  captain  of 
1H4I},  but  ho  is  nut  to  bo  i'uuiiJ  uiuuiig  tho  Arctic  voy- 
agers. 


PAKRV  ri    TlllUlJ    \()VA(;i:. 


ll'.i) 


rnnU  of 
rciiiciitN, 

I'IKH',     lit.' 

•t    t)i'  ihi- 

tinuui-ii- 
^iMid  iiiid 
'  ill  1-:;-, 
aclit. 
st'ivicc. 

,     .111(1     I'C- 

iii(lt>l)tt'(l 
s  prtilrs- 
k;  collfc- 
t'liniislKMl 
(1  he  rc- 
t    lvt»SS  lis 

paid   liy 
['iciict',  ill 

»us  v(jiiiiir 

[Tiiy,  liiis 

the  scr- 

v's  I'ohir 

(»ss  to  fio 

lie  fclirl' 

ill   x-ll, 

■s  lvoss"s 

:oiiuiiaiid 

this  voy- 
utciiaiit, 

inidshi|)- 

Ic  a  licu- 
Ict't    tho 
(cit'ly. 
iptaiii   i»l" 
•die  voy- 


Ai,t,A.\  .M'Lakkn  was  a|)i)(tiiilt'il  Mii-gfon  ol"  a  >liii)  ul" 

lilC    lilU!. 

W'iM-iAM  HviivKV  llt»()i'i.K,  purser,  was  the  iViciid 
iiiid  a>s()ciatf  ()t'('aptaiii  I'ari'y,  iiiid  st'r\('d  with  iiiiii  in 
till-  Alexander  in  Knss's  voyaL^e.  and  in  all  tlie  three  ot' 
I'liiry.  ii  iiKist  I'aitht'iil  and  t  rii>t  Wdil  liy  tillicer.  lie  was 
rewar(hMl  tor  liis  services  liy  a  civil  iippointiiieiit  in 
(iiceiiwicli  Hospital,  where  he  died,  and  his  widow  is 
now    matron  oi  the  ( i  reeiiwitdi  S(diools. 

The  ships  sailed  I'roin  the  Nore  on  the  llMli  of  May, 
l^-.'l.  the  William  Harris.  ti'an>|)oit.  acconipanyiiii^ 
them.  'Their  instiMictions  were  to  make  the  he^i  ol" 
llieir  way  to  Davis's  Strait  and  cio^s  over  to  Lancaster 
Sound,  and.  proceedini;  throuuh  iJarrow's  Siiait.  eii- 
deiuor  to  maUe,  throiiiih  Pi'ince  Keneiit's  Inlei.  a  pass- 
;i::e  into  the  sea  wliicdi  hounds  the  continent  (of  America) 
(111  its  northern  coa>t.  and  thence  westward  to  the  I'a- 
cific.  The  i-eason  assiiined  tor  this  route  in  the  inslriic- 
ti(jiis  is,  '• 'j'lie  str(»iiji  opinion  whi(di  yon  liiive  conveNed 
to  IIS  in  favor  ol'  the  attempt  thi'oiii:li  Prince  Kei:eiit's 
Inlet  ;  the  conlident  liojte  which  yoii  I'xpress  that  the 
ice.  which,  at  the  period  of  the  year  when  yon  visited 
die  inlet,  ohstructed  your  pas>ai;e.  was  likely  to  he  re- 
moved hy  circumstances  ol'  sea>oii  and  weather  within 
the  iiaviiiablc!  ])art  of  the  year:"  and.  it  is  added,  "the 
CdulideiuM^  whi(di  wo  are  jiistilied  in  placiiii,^  in  your 
iiiduMneiit  and  experience  (h'termine  us  to  anth(jri/,o 
and  direct  you  to  piirsiu'  tlu;  coiiise  wliii'h  yon  considi-r 
the  imj.st  promising,  iiamelv ,  thronuh  J'riiice  Keiicnt's 
Inlet." 

<  )n  the  IHth  of . I  line,  having  reacheil  the  latit'ide  ot" 
(ill','  ,  they  saw  the  first  iceheru,  and  I'rcnii  that  ti  r'  fell 
ill  with  those  bodies  of  ii'e  almost  daily.  At  a  i)anish 
hctMement  in  l)avis'>  Strait,  calleil  l/ievely.  they  t'oiind 
LieuttMiant  (Iraat,  wiio  liad  been  I'lnployed  on  a  survey 
of  the  (Ireeiiluiid  coast,  and  reci-ived  much  civility  from 
him  and  otlier  gentlemen  ladonging  to  the  settlement. 
As  soon  as  the  stores  and  provisions  were  transhipped, 
the  W^illiam  Harris  was  release(|  imd  ordertMl  to  return 
lionie.  (hi  leaving  tht>  harbor  the  llecia  struck  on  a 
sunken  roc!;.  ( )n  tho  17th  of  .Inly  tin'  ice  be^an  to 
close  ruuiid  the  ships.     "  From  this  time,"  I'uny  says, 


•>  I 


!'  I  ' 


!  *     i 


I , 


,<    I 


I 


t.i. 


i    1 

ill 


i  H 


.11 '! 


■lili'l 


I 


I  r 


170 


ARCi'IC    VOYA(;^;^^. 


"  ilic  <tl)sfnu'li()ns  iVnui  tlic  ()iiiiiitity,  iiiiiiinitudis  ninl 
cliKfiH'ss  u|'  the  ice  wcic  Mich  ;is  to  kcrp  (iiir  |H'ii|i|r 
;ilinnst  coiistiiiil ly  rmpldyt'il  in  lifjiviii::.  war-piii^.  or 
wiwiiin  lliroiii:li  it.  ill. (I  yet  ^\itli  ^o  liltlr  siiccfss.  lliiit, 
:it  tin-  clo^^c  or,liil\-.  wo  linil  only  pniot  nitod  sovontv 
nolo-;  lo  tlio  wostw  iiril."  Iloro.  on  the  1st  of  Au- 
;^ii^l.  Iii'iii'j  closi'ly  hosot,  ;i  yiilo  of  wind  pi'i'ssiiiii  tlio 
ice  toucilior,  ;ind  ovoihiyinu  nm-^s  upon  nuiss,  ••  llio 
llt'clii  rtTcivcd  s('\or;il  \ory  JiwUwiiid  •nips.'  and  w;is 
oiico  I'liirly  laid  on  licr  liroadsido  liy  a  strain  wliicli  nni-.! 
iin'viti'ilx"  liavo   naislicd  a  vcsstd  ol'  ordinai'V  stfi'iit;tli." 


Til 


r    mil   ol'  Soptrnihrr    had   arrisod    ••  hotoro   wo    siic- 


cocdod  III  rolcasiii^  oiiisclvos  li'oin  Hit*  ninro  than  oi'ili- 
nary  hairior  of  ico  in  tlir  middle  ol"  r)airnrs  Day." 

'I'lioy  had  coiitiniiod  thrir  cH'oiMs  lo  piisli  to  the 
noi-lh\sard.  hut  it  was  not  till  tho  -.".Hh  of  Anuii'-t  thai 
Iho;  roaidicil  tlio  ialitiido  of  7M  1.').  longitude  (kI  10. 
inwhioh  situation.  tVom  tho  oxpcrionco  ol"  1>11I.  tlioy 
had  roasoii  to  rxprcl  thoro  would  scafcolv  liavo  liocii 
aii\  ico  at  this  season.  'I'he  ohstnictions.  however,  con- 
tiiined  till  tlx'  -ill  ot"  Sepleiiiher.  then  in  latitude  7  1  ' 
7  and  lonuiliule  (ill  .'>  I  .  iieiiii;  ahont  ill)  miles  to  tlu^ 
N.N.W.  ot'  the  situation  in  whi(di  they  cleared  the 
*' |iack"  in  the  year  l-l!i.  I'^orty  miles  I'rom  hence 
they  pa-seij  tliron::li  the  harrier  ol'  ice.  al'ler  an  unwea- 
ried r\erlioii  ot' eiL;lit  tedious  weeks  hy  the  ollicers  and 
men   to  o\  ercoiiie  it . 

The  oMiaordiiiary  weallier  wdiicli  accompanied  tlio 
low  tempeiature  of  Anuiisl  is  noticed  as  somethini;  re- 
mai-kal)|e.  Il  is  staled  hy  I'arry  that,  of  the  thirty-one 
days  in  that  monlh.  there  was  i.  ■lually  hut  one  in  which 
they  had  not  a  (h'|)osit  of  snow,  sleet,  rain,  oi"  t'oij,  diirini:; 
sinne  part  of  the  t weiity-t'oiir  ('oiisecutiv(>  hours:  and 
the  northerly  wind.  wlTudi  is  the  usual  harhinuer  ol"  a 
clear,  di'y.  wholt^some  atmosphere.  Avas  just  as  thick  as 
any  other.  And  he  adds.  "  tor  ttMi  weeks  in  .Inly.  Au- 
gust, and  SephMiiher.  tlionuh  we  were  constantly  walcdi- 
inu  for  an  opportunity  ot'  airini;  the  ships"  comi)anies' 
he(ldiiii;  on  dei'k.  we  could  only  ventui'e  to  do  so  once." 

In  their  sini^iile  throuiih  the  ice  (tt'  Davis's  Strait  and 
l>artin"s  Uay.  I'arry  latticed  the  set  ot"  the  cui'rents  hy 
Nvliicdi  tJie  whole   ijodv  ot'  the    ice   miuht   be   actuated. 


\' \ 


r ARitv  s  THiKi)   \(iv.\(;i:. 


171 


w 


Itlldc,     Mini 

iiir  priiplr 
iirpiiiii.  (<v 
cess,  lliiit, 
(i  seventy 
st  nt'  \li- 
I'ssiltti  I  he 
iiss,  "  tlie. 
iiiid  \v;i> 
llicli  lilllst 
streiiiilli." 
'  we  >  1 1  (•  - 
tliMii  iinli- 
liiy." 

sli    t(t    the 
iiuiist    tllllt 

le  (;:;     to . 

|sl|).  they 
hiivt*  heeii 
^■('Ver.  ('Mti- 
tituih'  7  1 
iles  to  tht^ 
eiired  th(> 
oin  heti('(> 
an  miweu- 
tl'ieei's  iiiid 

Jiiiied  the 
■thiiiii;  re- 

hliMy-eiie 
ill  whirh 
\)iZ  dtii'iii^ 
Diirs  ;  and 
iiii:ci'  (il  ii 
IS  thick  as 
.Inly.  Au- 
tly  \val(di- 
'oinpaiiies' 

SI)  Diice."' 
Strait  and 
irreiits  l)y 

actuutt-'d. 


••  It  was  niisidiis."  he  says.  "  that  a  dally  set  tn  the  sdntli- 
wai'd  iihtaliieij  when  the  wind  was  noil  hei  l\  .  ditiiTiii^ 
liniii  two  or  three  to  ei^ht  or  ten  inili-s  per  day.  accord- 
iai:  to  the  sti'enuth  ol'  the  hree/e  ;  hut  a  northerly  eiir- 
reiit  was  e(pially  apparent  when  the  wind  hiew  lioni 
ilie  southward."  IhiI  he  ohser\es,  as  a  reiiiarkahle  cir- 
(■iiiii>tance,  that  a  ir(  sii  rl //  set  was  rre(piently  apparent, 
even  against  a  iVesli  hree/(^  hlowinj;  iVoiii  'hat  (piarter. 

(  )li  tile  Idth  ol  Septeiiiher  they  e'lteifd  that  ■'  iiia'j- 
iiiliceiit  inlet."  Sir  .lames  Laiicaster's  Sound.  ;ind  timiid 
ll  entirely .  as  nsiial,  tree  I'roiii  ice,  except  here  and  tlierts 
;i  lieri:.  "  lloiltln^  alioiit  in  that  solitary  uiaiideiir,"  ot' 
which  these  eiioriiions  masses  are  said  tocoiivev  so  siih- 
liiiie  an  idea.  I'roceedin'i  "  vexat ioiisly  slow"  on  tlin 
l.;tli.  they  had  tin'  iiiortilication  to  perceive  the  sea  alieail 
cDM'ied  with  yoiinij  ice,  on  entering  which  r(!coiiise  was 
had  to  ''sallying."  hreakiiii;  it  with  ho;its  ahead,  and  \a- 
ridiis  other  eNpe(lieiits.  all  alike  iiielt'ectiial,  without  ii 
tVesh  and  tree  hree/.e  liirnishiiiL;  a  constant  impetus; 
••so  that,  alter  seven  or  eij^ht  hours  ot"  unsnccessliil  la- 
li(ir  in  this  way,  we  were  oldii^ed  to  remain  as  we  were, 
I'airlv  and  iiiiiiK)  ahlv  la-set."  Thiis  tor  three  da\s  they 
(■iiiitinned  stniuiilitiii  with  the  yoiiii<^  ice  to  little  or  in* 
purpose,  now  and  then  ^ainiiiii  halt"  a  mile  ot'  j;ro;iiid  to 
windward  in  a  little  "hole"  ot"  open  water,  and  alter  all 
rathi-r  losing  izroiind  than  otherwise,  w  hile  the  youni';  ic(5 
was  every  iioiir  iiicreasinu  in  tliicUness. 

(  )n  the  17ih  tliey  t'oiind  themselves  driven  hack  to  the 
c.istward  of  Admiralty  Inlet,  the  yoniii:  ici'  ^liH  increas- 
ing in  thickness.  This  was  certainly  fi  most  severe  trial 
(if  the  patience  and  jierseveraiice  ot"('aptaiii  i*arry,  of  ;i 
(lilt'ereiit  kind,  hut  ('(pially  annnyiii'j,  as  that  of  ••  l'"o\'s 
( 'lianiud"  and  the  ••  I'ro/.eii  Strait."  It  (Uice  occurred  to 
him  that  as,  in  crossinii  Datlin's  j>ay,  lie  had  expended 
unexpectedly  nearly  the  wliole  of  tlu^  seas(»ii,  and  as, 
under  particular  circnmstanc'.  s,  his  iiist  rnctioiis  antlior- 
1/i'd  him  to  return  to  Knuland.  it  was  lii^li  time  to  matve 
lip  his  mind,  wliich  was  to  him  a  point  speedily  decided. 
••  I  could  not,"  he  says,  '•  have  a  moment's  hesitation  as 
to  the  propriety  ot"  jmshin^i  on  as  tiir  as  the  jireseiit  sea- 
son would  permit,  and  then  yiviiii^  a  t'air  ti'ial,  dnriiii;  tho 
whole  of  next  suuinier,  to  tho  route  1  was  directed  hy 


t  I 


f,  I 


11 


"I!! 


'■iii< 


i;  ! 


•  /   1, 
) 


'    \ 


T 


1T2 


akci'k;  \(n  \t.i;s. 


1 1 


my  iiistnirliuiis  tu  |miisiu';  iiihI  in  tliis\ii'\v  ( 'niiiiiiiiinlii' 
I  lii|t|iiit'r  I 'III  I  rely  cniiciiri't'il.      'Tlir  l;ifl  i-^.  lliiit  the  sum- 

Ilirr  nr  scilsnii  \\  lis  i|||ril<ls    ex  |il'inlri|  lu'ldlc   llicy   i:nt   lliln 
llif   iiilcl.  iiiiii    iiii'jilt    |iiiil);ili|y.  ;il-(i.   lie  csiicihIimI   hi    tl 
Inllow  iiii:    \  I'iir    lii'lnjo    It    ^||ll|||l|    lie   I'lililiil    |)l  iicl  iciiMc   I 
Lift    iillt    (il    lllcif   \\  ililcr  (|llilllcrs.    liiilc-s.   iiiilrrd.  lis   \\  ;|| 
slmi  1 1\    ;i|)|i('!ir.  tlicsc  ( |i  Iillt  fis  wt'ir  sii  l;i\(i|  ;iiil\   cirrii  in 
.sliiiicrd  lis  til  iiilliiit  (if  ill)  t'liily  (Iriiailiirc  iViim  lliciii. 

Il  \V(Mllil  lie  useless  In  eiitt'l'  ilitti  !l  ilctnil  nl'  llic  In.'ils 
(»r  f('m[it*r  .•Mill  piilii'licf  tliey  wcic  (•iitii|iclleil  In  liliileri:ii 
;it'r|-  tins  (lecisinli.  niie  cil'  wliicli.  Iiu\ve\ei'.  limy  l»i'  ^l;il 
eil.  Ill  ;i  slruiii:,  cilliTiit  setlliiL;  tn  the  ejistWiini  lit  tlie 
i;ite  nl'twu  iiiijesiiii  liiiill'.  Wlthniit  ;i  cliiilice  ut' steiiiiiiiii_; 
It.  aiiil  lieset  jis  tlie\  weri'  in  \  iinin:  ice.  (liiriiiL;  ;iii  iiiiii 
MiiilK  iliiiU  iiiutil  '•!  iniif  (ir  tni  lioiiis'  (liiiiilion.  with  ii 
ht'iivy  t'iill  di'  snow,  tlicy  luiiiiil  lhriii«.el\  es  iitteil\  in  a 
liriplcss  state.  '•  'Thi'  eniisei|iieiice  was,  that  when  we 
Miiiilc  the  land  nii  thr  iiii'inini;  nl'  the  'Ji'.d,  we  had  heen 
driricd  the  iiici'i'tlihle  dislanri-  nl'  »'ii;lil  of  niiir  Iratines 
diiiini;  th<'  niLiht.  liiidiim  niiiseKcs  nil' the  W'nllastnn  |s| 
niids.  at  till'  eiitiaiice  nl'  .Na\\  I'lnard  Inlet."  Still  they 
peix'vt'ind,  and  thr  help  nl'  an  casleily  liree/r  uliicli 
spraiiu  up  (III  thr  ".Mlth.  and  ;:iadiially  rrrshiMU'd.  piinii- 
i■^t•||  ill  eafiicst  to  talxi-  ihniii.  as  at  la^t  it  did.  iiitn  I'ciiK  e 
Ivt'ut'iil's  Inlet  nil  the  •-'7th;  and  hy  heating;  ii|).  tlie\ 
caiiic  In  llic  entrance  nl'  I'nrt  Unweii.  '•when'."  sa\s 
I'aiiy.  "  Inr  two  nr  thrrc  days  past.  I  hail  dt'trnniiied 
In  iiiakf  nni'  wintciiiiLi  place,  il",  as  there  was  lint  lillle 
I'ea^nii  In  expect,  we  shniild  l»c  sn  rnrtiinate  as  In  |)iish  Inn 
ships  thus  i'ar."  'Jdic  nid  prncess  nt'  ciittini:  <i  cJiiial  in 
till'  ice  I'nr  the  I'eceptinii  nl'  the  ships  was  resnrted  tn. 
and.  as  i'arry  states,  •*  nii  the  evening  nl'  the  ]  st  nl'  (  >ctn 
her  wi'  had  !iccniii|)lished  eiinii^h  I'nr  niir  piiipnse.  and 
llie  ships  were  warped  into  their  winter  slatiniis.  whicli 
we  had  the  satislact inn  In  ihinU  Wfie  extreiiudy  t'avnra- 
h!e  tor  an  early  release  in  the  s|)rini;." 

Nnlhiii^  reiiiarkali!e  was  nhserved  in  the  |)as>aLie 
lhrnni:li  Lancaster  Sound.  A  hnat  was  sent  nii  slinre  in 
a  hay  near  ('ape  W  arreiider.  I)r.  Neill  reports,  '•  The 
heacli  was  ci  \ereil  with  iVaunients  of  tlesh-colnred  I'eld- 
spar,  closely  studded  with  red  uarnets,  i'roin  the  si/e  nt' 
a  pea  to  Uiii;  of  a  Nvalnut  ;   the  rocU  was  of  gneiss  forma- 


'  ii 


r  \i;kv  ri  TiiiiM)  V(jva(;i:. 


17.7 


tpiii.  iIm'  U'rciifiT  |);irl  111"  It  coiiilMisru  of  l!ii'i:(>  |iliitr-i  lliick- 
I;,  set  with  '^iiflifl-..  'riic -.iiirucr  u|'  llic  ::iuiitli|  Wiisjil- 
llinsl  clltlirly  (iiM'lfil  c'ltlliT  Willi  sllOW.  nr.  Ill  Illisriiri' 
nl  il.  Willi  liixiinaiil  iciiMlm-  iiinss.  'Tlic  |);irt\  ^iicrcril- 
nl  III  klllllii:  lllli'c  rcilKJr.'r  oill  nt"  il  >lii,i||  licid.  Ill^lr 
I  I  ii|i  ill"'  >liiiil  1)11  Ihf  si,!,.  (ii'ii  liilj.  III  ihirc  in-  'Mill  liiiit- 
ill"i|  I'lTl  ;ih(.\c  llir  lr\.'|  (if  ihr  vr;i.  Lirii  I  ciiaiil  K'n^s 
|..iiii'l  srvrriil  |»i('ci'-  <.r  ciial.  wliicii  IhiiikmI  with  ;i  clear, 
h.i-lil  llaiiic  ;  III-  saw  Iwn  liaivs.  aiirl  killrd  uiic  i,\'  llinii  ; 
a'".!  a  |ii\,  il  jiiiir  oi  liunis.  sonir  \viii'^li">s  ducks,  imd  s(.\  - 
ci.il  sMciw  lniiiliiins.  I'ai-iy  >ays  tlicy  uKscivrd  a  iiiiin- 
Imt  ((I'  wliiili  s  III  cNcry  |>iiil  nj'  Lanca-lcr  Sound,  'riicy 
M  ivrrvcd.  iilso,  ti  ^icai  mauy  iiaiw  li;i!s  and  ji  Icvv  wal- 
iii-rs  III  jSanow's  Sirail.  and  thinks  they  iiiii;|it  lia\r  seen 
I'Miiy  iiHiif  uT  I  Mil  1 1  I  lilt  Inr  the  colli  II  ma  I  |)rcs,.ncr  of  the 

N  nllM^    ice. 

This  hciir;  \]\i'  f.uir/h  winter  which  I'any  was  dooni- 
I'll  Ml  pass  III  the  I'ld/eii  re-ions  of  the  North,  he  knows 
imi.  he  siiys.  how  he  can  do  heller  than  iiursiie  a  nielli- 
irl  similar  to  lliiil  hfiTtofore  praciici'd.  hy  coiiliiiin^  liim- 
■^I'll  riilher  lo  ihr  |ioiniiii:;  out  i>\'  nwy  (/i/i't  n  m-i  ohservcd 
iMiw  iiiid  foriiieily.  than  hy  enlerin^  on  ii  fresh  descrip- 
liiiM  <i|  the  iici  iial  phciionifnii. 

••  To  tlm>e  w  lio  lead,  a-  well  a-  to  those  who  (h-<(i-l!ie.  the 
:mcoiiiiI  of  a  w  inter  passi'd  In  i|,ese  reLdniis  can  no  loiiL"-r  he 

i\iiecte(l    to    all'.ird    the    iijIiM-Csl    uj'    lio\eltv    il    once     Jlos, cs^ed, 

Mhiiv  e>|.ecially  ill  a  station  ahvadv  dejinealed  with  tojeralile 
Li'i;:i-;i|)|iic;i|    jnecisioii    on    oiir    niaps,    and    thus,    as    it    \scre, 

lyoimh!     l|e;n'    to    (Mil-    fn-esiiles    ill     home,        lllile|ii>ndellll\  .    ill- 

i\rfi\,  ol  till,  circunisiaiice,  it  is  ||;o-d  to  conceixe  aiiv  one 
!liiii_'  mure  like  aiioiher  than  two  winters  passed  in  the  lii_'h- 
cr  latitudes  of  the  I'liiar  re-ions.  e\cep|  when  \ariets-  |i;i|,. 
\^<'w^  lo  hi'  atl'oi-ded  hv  iiiterconrs,.  uiii,  s.niie  oiher  liraiich  of 
•  !lie  whole  faniils-  of  man."  Winter  alter  winter,  nature 
liciv  assumes  an  ;ispect,  so  much  Jilike.  that  ciirsorv  ('hserva- 
l".u  ('an  scarcely  delect  ;i  .sin-le  feature  of  variety.  '  The  u  iu- 
ii  r  i.t  more  lempei.iie  I'liniati's.  and  even  in  soinr  of  no  sli-ht 
^.•^.•ril\ ,  is  occasion.illy  di\ersilied  hy  a  thaw,  which  at  once 
-i\es  \anety  and  comparative  cheerliilness  to  tjie  prospect, 
r.al  here,  w  hen  once  the  earth  is  covered.  ;dl  is  drearv  ino- 
iinlonc.us  whiteiii'ss — not  lliiuely  I'or  daVs  or  weeks,  hut  for 
lUMiv  than  half  a  year  to-cther."  WhiclieN  er  way  the  eve  is 
'"'■'I'''',  i'  meets  a  picture  «'alculated  \n  impress  iijion  the 
'  an  ideji  of  inanimate  stilhies.-.  ,jf  tlmt  inntioiiless  tonioi.- 

1'  -l  ^ 


>  f 


t 


I     i 


i 

i 

f 


'1 


''!i  i  1 


)'i 


-»wr-™^^ 


171 


Ancrn;  voY.\(;r.3. 


with  wliicli  iiiir  rcdiiiirrt  linvr  iiutliiiii.'  cnnL'f'iiiiil — nl'  iiiiy  tliiii:/. 
ill  sliMit,  liiit  lilf.  Ill  llii-  very  Mh'iicf  tlicjc  i.-.  :i  (li'iidiu'-. 
willi  wliirli  a  liuiiiiiM  spcctiitur  a|i|irai>  mif  of  In  i  i/iiia.  'I'li. 
|iic>rii«'<'  ot'  man  sfciiis  an  inlnisinu  on  iIh-  tln-arv  hnlitmlr  nl 
this  wiiili'iy  ilrscit,  which  cvrii  its  niitivi;  aiiiiiials  liavf  litia 
uhil.'  Iur.,a"krii. '•—!•.   1(1,   11. 

Anion:,'  tlir  winter  nrfimiif  incuts,  ( 'iiptain  I'lii'i'y  spciiks 
ill  the  lii;;h('st  trniis  of  S  \  l\ ester's  ••  wariiiiti^  iippaiii- 
tiis,"  to  wliicli  he  uscrilius  the  coiiiroiMs  iinil  conveiiien- 
(•«»s,  ami  witii  them  the  i:«!neriil  heiillh  (if  tlie  seainen. 
■whieh  exceeded  those  of  any  fonner  experii'iice  :  "a 
<'i)iitri\inice."  he  says,  "  ol"  \sliich  I  scarcely  know  llow 
to  express  my  a(hnii'ation  in  ade(|Uiite  terms." 

"  'I'lie  aheralinii  adopted  on  this  voyai.'e.  of  placlliir  this 
sto\e  ill  the  verv  hotlom  nl'  the  iiold,  produced  not  only  th'' 
etl'cct  iiatnrallv  to  lie  rxpcctrd  tVom  it.  ot'  iiicreasiiiLr  the  r;i- 
pidity  ot'  the  curii  lit  of  warm  air,  and  thus  carryiiiir  it  to  all 
the  olVicers'  <  ahins  with  less  loss  nf  heat  in  its  passai/e,  hut 
was  al>o  ai-conipanied  hy  an  advaiifaire  scarcely  less  import- 
ant.  w  hi<li  had  not  heeii  anticipated.  This  was  the  perft  cl 
and  nnlforni  warmth  niain'aiiied  diirini:  the  winter  in  hntli 
ttir  (  alile-tiers.  which,  ^^llen  cleared  of  all  the  stores,  iravc 
lis  another  hahitahle  de<'k,  on  which  more  than  one  third  of 
the  men's  hamniocs  were  herthed,  thus  atfordiiii;  to  the 
ship>'  coiii|);iiiies,  during'  seven  er  eiirlit  months  of  the  year. 
the  iiiih'scrihahle  conif ii't  of  nearly  twice  the  space  fir  their 
heds,  and  twice  the  volume  ol'  air  to  lireathe  in.  It  \\vr{[ 
hcarci'lv  lie  added  how  coiiduci\e  to  whol  'some  ventilation, 
and  to  the  prevention  of  moi>ture  lielow,  such  an  arraimc- 
iiiciit  proved  ;  suilice  it  to  say  that  we  have  never  hefore  hecn 
so  \\-i't'  from  moisture,  and  that  1  can  not  Imt  chielly  iittrilmti: 
to  this  apparatus  the  uii|)recedeiited  ^'ood  state  of  health  wo 
enjoved  during  this  winter." — V.   11,  1.".*. 

It  is  iireatly  to  he  lamented  tliat  tliis  testimony  of  the 
irood  effeets  of  ji  vorv  simple  contrivance'  had  not  licci- 
iittendetl  to  hefore  tlu'  inetlicienf,  tronhlesome,  and  e\- 
petisive  (piiK'kerv  tipfMirtUus  liad  been  permitted  in  cer- 
tiiiii  of  liei'  majesty's  ships. 

'I'lie  prepai'atioiis  and  iirectuitioniiry  iiioasnres  ncccs- 
siiry  for  seciiriiiif  the  sliijis  occupied  ail  hands  for  some 
time,  Jind  tliey  were  not  linally  settled  till  ahont  the  mid- 
dlo  of  ( )ctoher.  Parry  omits  no  opportnnity  of  rccoru- 
iii^Li  whiitever  may  iippcai*  to  he  condiicivo  to  tlio  beiielil 
of  tfctdo  or  navigation.     Thus  he  slates  : 


mm 


I'AUUY  ri    THIRD    VOYAUK. 


115 


fiiiy  tliMi.', 

I    ll<';i(||ir-. 

'lili:-       'i  in 
Mllltlldf   ci| 
llIlVC  tnr  ,, 

n-y  speak 
l^  iippaiii 
•((iivrnini- 
'    Srailicti, 

(Mice  :  ••  a 
\IIO\V  luiw 

'laciliL'   lli:- 
tt   (inly  iIp 
in;.'  ihr  ra- 
in,:/ it  to  all 
iissiiL'r,  Iml 
I'ss  iiii|inrt. 
the  pcili  (  • 
trr  in  linii 
tofcs,  L'avi 
nt"  tliird  (i! 
\uii    to    tla- 
r  tlir  \  cat . 

•('  liif  ttirll 
I.  It  nrrd 
vfiitilatiiiii 
in  aiTaiiL,!'- 
)el(ti'('  \)vr\\ 
ly  attriliiiti 
'  health  \M' 

liny  of  the 
1  not  heel. 
H,  and  ex- 
cel in  cei- 

I'es  iiofcs- 
-;  for  souit! 
It  the  iiiid- 
of  recoiii- 
thc  heiielii 


••  Latenswi    liail  thi.'^year  heen  in  reachiiiLT  Sir.Tanies  J,an- 

(•;istel'',"»  Sili;a(|,  lliele  umilil  sliU  have  hern  tinif  inV  a  "-hill 
enL'aL'ed  in  the  whair  li«hei-\  to  have  reapiil  a  tnlrialili'  hai-- 
^eHt.  as  we  iru't  with  a  nunihir  nt'  u  halc^  in  every  part  nt  it. 
iiiid  even  MS  tar-  as  thi'  entiance  nt'  I'nrt  Hnwen.  The  ninii- 
h'r  re;,'i>tered  alln^'ethfr  in  nnr  /inni'iials  is  hetween  Iwi'iilv 
and  tliirty,  hut  1  liave  no  dnuht  tlial  nianv  nmie  than  lh>'>e 
were  M'eii,  and  that  a  ship  <'.\|ires>ly  on  the  |noU-ont  tor  them 
would  have  I'niind  tull  ncrnpalion  lor  \trv  hoats.  Several 
\\hi(  h  catue  near  n-.  v.ere  ot  larire  and  •  pavaide'  dinnn- 
r;oii>."— r.  :i(i.  AT. 

'I'hd  ()c(Mipati()ii  iiiid  diversit  n  of  the  seamen's  minds. 
as  well  lis  till'  i-emilariiV  of  their  hodily  exercise,  were 
not  liUely  to  he  itiiatteiided  to  hy  so  prudent  and  e\[M'- 
lieiiced  ii  eommaialec  as  ("aplaiii  I'an-y;  hut  he  was 
(•(.jiially  iitteiilivc  to  what  had  heeii  done  on  I'oniier  voy- 
ai;es  ;  iind  us  tlie  same  oriieers  iind  men  were  anion;; 
the  present  ones,  n  little  variety,  therefore,  was  ihoiiuhl 
to  he  (lesirahle.  '•  ( )iir  former  umiisenieiits.""  he  su\s. 
••  heinii;  almost  worn  tlireadl)are.  it  ri'(|iiired  some  iii<.'e- 
iniity  to  devise  any  plan  that  siionld  possess  the  clianii 
of  novelty  to  recommend  it."'  '^rii;s  purpose  was  ('(mii- 
pletely  iinswered,  however,  hy  a  proposal  of  ( 'oiiimand- 
er  lloppner  to  attemjit  a  vi<i.si/iif  radt ,  in  which  ollicers 
and  men  slioiiM  alike  take  a  part  ;  hut  which,  wiihi'iit 
iinposini;  any  I'estraint  wiiiitever,  should  leave  everv  (uie 
to  thnir  own  clioice.  either  to  join  in  this  diversion  or 
not.      Parry  was  delighted  with  it. 

■'  It  is  inipossihle  that  any  idea  could  have  proved  nmi-e 
liap|)y  (M-  more  exactly  .-uited  to  our  situation.  Admirahly 
dressed  ('haraclers  of  vai'ious  desci-iptious  readily  toik  tlii'iV 
jiarts,  and  many  of  these  were  sujiported  u  ilh  a  de^'ire  nt' 
.-j>irit  and  i,'eiiuine  humor  which  would  not  have  disLrraced 
a  more  retiiied  assenihly  ;  while  the  latter  iniL'ht  not  have 
disdained,  and  wotdd  not  have  ht>en  disu'iaeed  Ity,  copviii^ 
the  ^ood  order,  decorum,  and  inotl'ensive  cheei-l'ulne»  whicjj 
our  hinnhle  nias(|uera(les  presented.  It  does  e>pecial  cirdit 
to  the  dispositions  and  u'oikI  sense  of  our  iwn.  that,  tlio  iL'h 
all  the  nnicers  entered  fully  into  the  s|)irit  of  tlic>(>  aniiiM'- 
luetits,  which  took  ])laco  once  a  month,  alternately  en  iioard 
eai'h  ship,  no  instai'.ci>  occurred  of  any  thiiiL,'  that  could  in- 
tertere  with  the  rt.'uMilar  discipline,  or  at  all  weaken  the  re- 
spect ot  th(>  men  toward  their  .-iiperinrs.  Ours  were  luas- 
<|uera<les  without  liceuti(.)usuess — curuivals  witiiout  exc'es^i.*" 
--J'.   1!).  00. 


I< 


I 


»     . 


!f 


I 

t 

'I 


,1 


)  ' 


17G 


ARCTIC    VOVACrS. 


1)iit  ;iii  nor,n])iiti()ii  of  less  iiiiniscnuMit.  ]KM'li;ips.  hut 
not  Ifss  iiss;i|ii()ii>ly  |)iirsiic(|.  mikI  ot"  iiititiitclv  morn 
t'vciitiiiii  liciirtit,  was  tiirnislicd  l)y  the  I't'-fstiiblisliiiiciit 

ot     Scljools,    lllldl'l-   till'   \()llilltill_>    .SII|)t'iMI)t»Ml(l('ll(M'    ot'    Mr. 

Jlooprr  ill  till-  llrclii,  iiiid  ol'.NIr.  Mo^u  in  tlii^  i''iiy. 

'•  i'>y  till'  jiidicioiis  /.cil  nt'  All-.  lloo|>cr.  tiic  Ili-clii's  scIkioI 
u.i>  iiiJidc  siilis  ■rvifiii,  iKit  iiicrciv  lo  llic  iiiiprovt-mi'iil  of  tlic 
nii'ii  Ml  ic,idiii_'  iiiid  wriliiii.'  (in  wiiicli.  Ikiwcv cr,  tlu'ir  |in)_'- 
ri'ss  \\a^  siir|)risjiiL:ly  izrratj.  Iiat  also  to  ijic  rulli\atioii  oftlmt 
iTliu'ioiis  ti'i'liiiL'  wliicli  Mifsx'iitially  iiiij troves  tin-  cliiii-arlcnir 
a  M'aiirin,  liy  liirni>liiiii:  the  iiiirlic>t  I'lotivcs  tor  increased  ;ii- 
ti'ii'io';  to  ex  i-ry  otiicr  duly.  .Nor  was  tin-  i)t'iiclit  (  oiitiiicd  to 
till'  ciL'lil.'i'ii  or  t  wciily  individuals  wlioM'  want  of  ^(•||olar-lli|l 
liriMiL'lit  llioni  to  tlio  >rli(iol-lali|('.  Imi  cxlriidcd  ilM'lf  to  tiic 
rot  ol  tijc  >lii|i">  coiiipany,  niakiiiLr  the  wliolo  lowrr  {{nk 
>H(li  a  xriii'  ot  c|n!cl  rational  oc('n|iation  as  I  nc\cr  lict'oi-i- 
wilno-rd  oil  hoard  a  .-lii|i.  \nd  I  do  not  spoak  li^litlv  wlirn 
I  cxpros  my  tlioroiiLrli  prrsnasion  that  to  the  moral  clVfcis 
tiiii-  |irodii(('d  iii>  Ml  the  minds  of  tiic  ni.'ii  were  owin^',  in 
a  \rr\   liii:li  di'L.'ri    ',  lln'  nuistanl,  vet   sohrr  (■iirciiiilnc.-s.  iIm- 

nniii'  Ti'iipird  l; I  order,  iind  oven,  in  xuiii'  im'a>ar(',  the  i'.\- 

Iraoidoiary  .-talr  ol  hcaltli  \\li:i-|i  prf\ail(.'d  anion:,'  u.->  (hiring 
tli!.>  \s  iiili'r." — 1'.  ."ill.  :>\ . 

TIk^  several  ol'liceis  had  full  cmployiucnt  diiniio;  their 
winter  coiilineiinMit  in  the  \arioiis  ohservations  to  which 
their  attention  was  to  he  directed.  .^I;,iilletisnl  was  one 
of  the  earliest  snhjects  alter  the  erection  iind  inTani:('- 
nieiit  of  the  ohsei'viitory  oil  shore.  'Vht'  iiitt!resriii;j;  (act. 
was  disco\-ered  ol"  an  iiici'eiise  in  the  variation  ot"  the 
iiiairnetic  needle,  since  their  Ion  lie  r  visit  in  1^1!),  Miiioiiiit- 
in^  to  ahoiit  niiK'  dcLrrees.  iianieh-.  t'roin  111  '  to  I'J.'P'. 
.V  regular  series  of  hourly  e\periiiieiits  on  the  inaunetic. 
intensity  was  insritiited.  hy  which  was  I'oiind  a  diurnal 
clianiic  of  inteiisiiy.  exhihitiiii;  a  rei;nlav  inereas(»  iVoin 
the  niornin.:  to  the  alteriiooii.  and  as  rejiiilar  a  decfetise 
I'roin  the  al'lernoon  to  the  nKnnin;^:.  '•  it  also  iippoafed," 
says  I'any.  •■  that  the*  sun.  and,  as  we  had  I'eason  to  h(>- 
he\(^  the  relati\t^  position  id"  the  sun  and  moon  with  ref- 
erence to  the  magnetic  sjihere,  had  a  eonsiderahle  in- 
(hieiice  both  on  the  intensity  and  diurnal  variation,  al- 
ihoii'^di  the  exact  laws  ((l'lhi>  influence  may  still  remain 
to  he  d.scuvered."  It  is  to  he  hoped  that  tlie  result  of 
the  ohsei'Mitions  that  have  heeii  earryiiiii  on  for  tliree 
5''iirs  \t\   J-^iiyland   and  its  colonies,  and  uls:'  i;i  \:i-ioii:. 


o,  : 


t   ''i 


liips.  hut 
'ly    morn 

)||.stllllClit 

r  ..f  Mr. 
i'liry. 

il's  sciidol 
rut  (pf  tlic 

li'ir    |M'i);,'- 

iiii  (it'tli.it 
;ii';ir1ci-i)|' 
rented  ;il- 
Hitiiii'd  M 
■|Mil;ir.-iii|i 

I'll'  In  tlic 
AiT  (Irciv 
IT  li('tM|-i' 
Itiv  wllcu 
•ill    .-tlrcls 

)\viim,  iu 

lllC.-S,    til'' 

v.  the  ex- 
US  iluriu'' 

iii(r  tlu'ir 
()  which 

was  ()!!(> 
Ufl'UlliiC- 

Uiii;j;  (act. 
I  of  thn 
aiiioiiiit- 
to  l-J.T'. 
uaiiiu'lic 
I  (hiiniiil 
ISC  tVnui 
It'cri'iisc 
[)oarc(l," 
m  to  l)(v 
vitli  rcf- 
•al)li'  iu- 
itioii.  al- 
I  rciiiaui 
■(■suit  of 
II'  three 
\  a'";oi,:-, 


PARRY  S    THIRD    VOVACi:. 


177 


ii,iri>  ot    l*;uro]M'  Mu<i   in   Auici-'ica.  iu  ohs('r\ atones  espe- 
ciiilly     recfeil  tor  ohserx  ations  and  experiuii'Uls  ui  all  lluit 
rei:ards  terrestrial  inaLUietisiu,  will  tlu-ow  uiuch  li;:lit  ou 
tins  luterestin::.  aud.  it  may  he  said,  mysterioiis  suhject. 
The  retVartKUi  of  tlu^  atmospliere  is  fully  eotisidfred, 
and  llie  method   of  ohtaiiiiu^  it   iu  low    teuiperaliires    is 
i:iveii  ill  a  paper  hy   .Mr.   Fisher.      The  (.liserved  retrae- 
liniis  of  stars  at   low  altitudes  and  temperatures,  the  so- 
lar and  terrestrial  r»d'ractioiis  \,\  ohservatious  ol'tlie  scv- 
eial  o(fic(M's.  an;  carefully  rei,nsterei|    iu    tlii^    Appendix, 
i  he  vai-ioii«  metedrolonical  ohservaiio'.'s  employed  ;:  ciui- 
siderahle    |)ortiou  of  their  time  ;    hut   this  winter.  Tarrv 
-ays.  afforded  hut   lew  hrilliaut    displays   of  the   aurora. 
'hie  of  them,  liowever.  is  uoti((>d  as  somethiii"^  remark- 
able. 

"\Vhlle  Lieiiteiiaiits  Slierer.  Ifoss.  and  invself  were  ;id- 
nill'n.u'  the  extreme  lieinity  n\'  this  plieiH.lnelinn  frnlil  Ihe  ol). 
^^'r\atoi-v,  we  jdl  simnll:nie(,ii>ly  uttered  ;ui  e\c|,iiii,-uinn  (.(' 
vii-|ii-i>e  at  >e<-iiii.'  a  Id-iudit  ray  nt'  the  aiinira  sliool  suddenly 
(iiuMiward  from  the  i.'enerai  mass  i>[  U'jli],  t/n,/  /jc/ir,>  „  us  aii,l 
'iir  ////'-/.  w-hi(h  wa>  ihere  di>lant  only  three  tlioii.suid  vards. 
!i;nl  i  \\;tiie»ed  lhi>  pheiiunienon  \)y  invselt',  1  .-hould  ha\<- 
l"'|'il  di>p()>ed  t(»  receive  with  cailtioii  the  exidenee  e\eli  uf 
(ay  own  seti>e>  a<  to  this  la-t  fact  :  lint  the  appearance  cmi- 
\cyiii_r  pi-eci.-ely  'lie  same  idea  to  three  nid i\  idiiaU  at  once, 
■  iN  int(Mitly  en;,'aLred  in  looUiiiLT  toward  the  -put.  I  have  no 
doiii.t  that  the  ray  of  li^dit  actnallv  pa>M-d  witliin  that  dis- 
I:ilice  of  us.'' — P.   (i-J. 

It  is  uauecessary  to  euuiiHM-ate  tlie  nuuii)er  of  lunar 
oI)S(.rvatioiis  for  the  huiuitude.  and  those  i'(n-  the  latitmh! 
hy  the  sun  and  various  stars,  hy  all  the  olfieers  ;  the  ae- 
'oiiiit  of  the  rates  of  the  chroiioiiK^lers.  all  of  which  arn 
ui\en  iu  the  A  ppeiidix,  with  an  account  of  the  IJorealiati 
^hiadrupeds  and  l?irds  hy  Dr.  Kichardsoii.  of  Hotauy  hy 
I'rolessor  Hooker,  and  of  Zoo|)hytes  hy  Dr.  l''l<Nuiiiii. 
\ii'l  it  is  hut  jiistict^  to  all  the  officers  to  say  lliat  tlu'y 
most  williiii^lv  and  cordially  followed  tlie  cxaiiiple  (d"  their 
'■Ncellent,  intelligent,  and  iiidefatii:ah!e  coimiiHuder  iu 
'heir  regularity  and  iitleutiou  retpiisite  for  making  the 
\aiious  ohservatious.* 

•   An  lUTOUPt  will  Ijp  irivc!i  at  the  closo  of  tliis  chuiit.T  ef  the  several 
li.hTt.s  cuutiuucd  iutho  AppciKiix,  and  of  th.-  (.tticn-s  nnitl'Ae,!  ^^u,^n 

'Mi  I.I 


Ml 
'.ll'.lll 


ii 


(   i 


■  ^     Ii 


V    I 


I 

t 

] 

'     1 
1  ' 

I 

)'■ 


I     \ 


i'h  t 


,n 


I   I 


12 


in 


'iap 


178 


AUCTIC    VOYAGES. 


It  will  rciidily  1m>  iiiiiiuiiKMl  with  wli;it  nn\it*(y,  iti  tli(^ 
oiirly  part  nt'llu*  year,  the  iTiipprarancf  (li'tlii.'  sun  wji 


i(Hils»'(l  ti>r, 


Mtiiic.  I)V  ascfiu'.iiiuu  hiuli  lull.  v.o\  a  ^Imip'-i 


dl' him  oil  the  'Jd  nl'  l''('l)ni!iiy  :  on  the  i.'jtli  he  was  vi 
il)!t>  at  the  ohsrrvatory.  and  at  tin?  ships  on  tlio  -.'-Jd.  ••af- 
Irr  an  al)s('ii'M'  of  out-  hiindri'd  and  t wciity-onc^  days." 
I'mt  it  is  a  loni;  timi-  allfr  tlif  sun's  rcappt-araiict'  thai 
llic  fli'crl  ot"  ins  i-ays,  as  ti)  waniilh.  hccniiu's  pncepti- 
hlc  ;  wfJ'U  utter  week  passes  over  witli  scarcely  any  rise 
in  the  thernioiiieler,  except  for  iin  liour  or  two  dnrui^ 


the  (1 


av 


111  this  vj'ar  I'arry  says 


the  tl 


leniiomele,  did 


not  rise  al)i)V(^ 


till  the  1  Itli  oT  A|)ril,  havinji;  remained 
htdow  that  point  ol'the  scale  for  oiii' hundred  and  thirty- 
sive  (lavs;   but   he  mentions  this  us  the  only 


one.  succes 


instance  oftlu^  Uind  he  had  ever  known. 


J' 


arlies  wt 


re  sent  from  Port   Ihtweii  to  travel  hv  land 


on  the.  sea-coast  on  each  sidi'   of  the   p(»rt. 


T\ 


le   lirst, 


liowever,  was  directed  to  proceed  inland  to  the  eastward 
under  Commander   lloi)pner.      'i'liis  party  returned 


ni- 


ter a  very  fatii;iiiii.u;  journey,  having  with  diliiculty  trav- 
eled a  deirree  and  three  (piartc  's  eastei'ly,  in  the  lat.  7.'! 
l!)';  hut  no  appearance  ol'  sea  was  ohservcMl  in  that  di- 
rection: th(^  country  consisted  of  ravines,  many  of  them 
four  or  live  hundred  feet  deep,  and  very  i)recipitons. 
j)urinij;  the  whole  fortniiiiit's  excursion  scu-i-cidy  u  patch 
of  vegetation  could  he  seen;  u  few  snow-huntiiiiis  and 
some  ivory  nulls  were  all  tlu'  animals  tlu'y  met  with  to 
enliven  this  most  l)arren  and  desolate  couiitiy. 

Hares,  loxi's,  and  hears  werc^  siJiiriuyly  met  with;  and 
lh(^  last  unimal  is  not  disposed  to  have  any  alVection  fur 
mankind.      Instances,  however,  did  occur  to  show  th; 


matt'rnal  alfection  is  not  wantniii  m  this  am 


nial. 


II 


hut  wa.s 


us  uppureiit  in  it  as  in  thai  of  llio  walrus  described  by 


IJeeclu 


A  sin  -\)v;n\  killed  in  tlu>  open  water,  on  our  first  arrival 


It  I'ort  J^oweu, 


itf 


iiilfd  a  strikmi,'  instance  oi  niatern;i[  atli'c- 


tioii  in  her  an.viely  to  save  her  two  cubs.     Siie  niiiibt  lierM'lt' 
iped    the    bniit,    but,   would    not    tbr.-ake    her 


liave   easily 


vouiii:.  w 


bicli 


he  wa- 


tiiallv  '  towiim'  olf,  bv  ailowiui,'  llirni 


to  lest  on  liiM 


liack,  wlien  the  boat  came  nenr  them. 


sec- 


ond similar  inslance  occiirri'il  in  the  spriiiir,  wiicn  two  cuh> 
lia\  iiiLT  i-'o1  down  into  a  laiu'e  crack  in  the  ice.  their  inollici 


Uacei 


I  lier>elf  before  them,  so  as  to  secure  them  from  the  at- 


\  . 

':   \ 


y,  it)  lli(^ 

sun  wiis 

a  ^liiiip~.(' 

was  vis- 

■-'•J(l.  -af- 

w  days." 

met'  tliai 

I)ric<'|)li- 

,■  any  ns(( 

•()  (liirni^ 

«u'l«',  dill 

remained 

id  tliiity- 

lliL'  only 

•1  1)V  land 
riu'  liisl, 
oast  wan  I 
iirncd  at- 
tdty  Irav- 

o  laf.  ?;; 

II  that  di- 
y  of  tliciii 
L'('i|)it(>us. 
y  ii  patch 
itiniis  and 
t  with  to 

vitli;  and 
.'{•tioii  till' 
iliow  thai 
I,  iiiit  wa.s 
L;riln*(l  hy 

ii-st  arrival 
•rn;tl  atVcc- 
Ldit  hiM-M'lt' 
)i'.>ak<'  iii'i' 
wiiii,'  thi'iii 
u.  A  scc- 
i  two  cuh^ 
'ii-  nidllicr 
tini  thf  at- 


PAIiRV  rf    TIIIIM)    v<)VA(;f:. 


179 


1;i(ks  nf(.ur  ]...,,,, I,.,  which   ^.lic  i„i:.rht  cnsilv  have  avuid.'d 

iicr.-rir;  —I'.  7:». 

Thn  two  other  pai-ties,  consisting;  of  lour  men  each, 
nnih'rjhe  resjiective  cnnimands  of  Lientenants  Sherer 
a!id    Koss.    were   directi^l   i(,  travtd.  tlie   former   1(»   the 
siMithwai'(L  and   the   latter  to  the  northwarth  aloni,r  tho 
coast  of  Prince   K.v-ent's  Inlet,  for  thi^  purpose  ot'sur- 
\eynii:  it   accurattdy.      Parry  was   anxious,  also,  to  as- 
certain tii(^  stale  ol"  lh(^  ice  to  the  northward,  to  .>nal)lo 
him  to  form  somo  jnd'j;iiu>nt  as  to  the  prohahle  lime  of 
their    liheration.       'I'hese    parties    found    the    trav.din^ 
aionu^  sln)re  so  uood  as  to  enahle  them   to  extend    their 
journeys   far  heyond   tin;  points  intendi'd.      Lieutenant 
Koss  l)i-i)M^dit  the  wtdcome  intelli::ence  of  ihe  sea  lieiu"- 
jHM-feclly  open  and  free;  tVom  ice  at  ihe  distanceoti  wen- 
ty-two  nnles   to  the   northwani    of   Port    P.owep.    ••  1)^ 
whl(di,"  says    I'arry,  '•  I  cttncluded  -^ what,  naleed,  ha'd 
I'm^  Ixdore  heen  a  matt(u-  of  prohahle  conjeciurt  —  that. 
Harrow's  Strait  was  n(»t  permanently  fro/.eii  durini,^  tho 
winter."      I'^rom  tin;  tops  of  tho  hills  ahout  Cape   York, 
lieyond  whitdi  promontory  Lieutenant    Koss  travided,  nd 
iip|)earance  of  ice  could  he  distinuuished. 

Lieutenanl  Sherer  returned  to  the  ships  ahout  tho 
sauHi  time,  havinij;  performed  a  rapid  journev  as  far  as 
7  J  J  \  and  maUin;^  an  accurate  surv(>y  of  the  whoK'  coast 
til  that  distance;  and  Parry  re^rets'that  he  was  not  fur- 
nished with  more  provisions  and  a  laruer  party,  to  havf? 
cnahled  him  to  travel  round  Cape  Kater,  which  is  proh- 
:ilily  not  far  distant  from  oik;  of  the  nortlKM'u  Ls(|uimaux 
stations,  meiitionod  in  his  journal  of  tin?  preccdm-;  voy- 
age. 

On  the  PJth  of  July  tlio  ico  he^an  to  break  up  in  tho 
iieiiihhoi-hood,  and  ahout  tho  same  time  the  ice  whiidi 
crossed  th(»  mouth  of  the  harbor  detacluMl  its(df  at  an 
olfl  crack,  and  drifted  olf,  hjavinir  oidy  about  one  mile 
and  a  quarter  between  the  ships  and  the  sea.  The 
www  w^ere  now  employed,  with  the,  ^n-eatest  (dieerful- 
ness  and  alacrity,  from  seven  in  tiie  morninn  till  seven  in 
the  eveninjr,  daily,  wluui,  on  the  l!)th,  a  very  wtdcomo 
slo|)  was  put  to  their  o|)erations  by  the  entire" separation 
ol'  the  (lo('  across  the  harbor.  P>y  a  renewal  of  their 
l:ibor  the   whole  night  they  succeeded  in  iM'tting  tho 


\ 


1 


'  W 


I 


\\\\ 


?H 


11  * 


'AM 


I 


II 


ISO 


ARCTIC   VOVA(;r,.'^. 


ships  clri)!',  jiiiil   iilso.   '11  two   lioiil's"  lowitii:,  out   to   sr;i. 
jillcr  iiii  iiiiprisoiiiiiciit  of  liclnccn  iiiiH'  mid  ten  iiioutlis. 

"  (  )ii  st;iiiiliiii:  1»»  >^«'!i.  ^vc  siiilfil,"  siiys  I'lirry,  "witli 
.•I  li::lit  soiitlicily  \v!ii(l.  towiird  tlu'  western  slioic  o|' 
I'riiice  Ke^tMit's  Inlet,  wliicli  it  w;is  my  lirst  wish  to 
^Jiiii,  on  jiceoiinl  of  the  evident  iidviintJiue  to  be  (|(M'i\<'d 
iVoni  coiistinu  the  sonthecri  piii't  of  that  |)ortion  of  liind 
I'alied  in  the  eliart  '  N'oi-tli  Soinei-set.'  as  t'ai-  as  it  niiuht 
lead  to  the  ^\estwal■d;  wITudi,  iVoni  our  tornier  Uiiowl- 
I'd^e  we  iiad  I'eason  to  suppose  it  would  do.  as  tar.  al 
least,  as  tiie  longitude  of  !•.'>  .  in  ahout  tin*  |)arallel  of 
7'J,'  ,  that  is.  !it  ('ape  (Jarty."'  Hut  on  his  lirst  voyage 
he  had  been  below  7<>  (('ape  Kater).  on  tlu^  east  eoa>t. 
:i;id  the  two  shores  were  nearly  parallel  to  each  other: 
;nid  there  the  crossitiij;  uiiuht  not  have  been  ditlicult  ;  be- 
sides the  eertaintv  ol'  iieiuii  down  an  eastern  coast,  in 
eoniparisoii  of  takiuii  a  western  on(\  accordinti  to  ('ap- 
lain  Parry's  own  showiuir.  makes  it  the  more  i-emarka- 
iile  he  did  not  (dioose  the  formei'.  It  uiiiiht  also  hiivc 
heen  sup|)oscd  that  a  desire  t(»  extend  the  knowledge  o|' 
the  easlorn  coast  uhuht  have  been  a  stroui:  inducement, 
even  if  only  to  examine  the  openinij;  ot"  the  Kui-y  and 
liecda  Strait  into  the  IJeuenl's  Inlet,  which  Mi'.  I\eid's 
rejxu'l  leaves  in  ratliei'  an  unsatislactory  state,  and  also 
to  have  looked  into  the  (iulf  ot'  Akkoole(\  whicdi  is  de- 
scribed by  the  hlscpiimaiix  lady. 

i'arry,  however,  had  d(»ubtless  jTood  I'casoiis  Tor  his 
idioice.  oiu'  of  which  was  the  appai'ent  lendencv  to  the 
Avestward  of  the  shore  ot"  Xoi'th  Somerset.  M'hat  he 
had  W(dl  wei<;lied  the  case  appears  by  his  own  showini:: 

••  1  shall  liist  mention  (be  ,-ays)  ;i  cirtunislinicc  wlilcb  li:.-- 
]iarlicularlv  forced  itself  upon  mv  iii>tice  ni  llie  course  ot  oni- 
various  allenipts  to  pcMieli'ate  thmuLdi  die  ice  in  these  reLjion^, 
which  is,  lliat  the  eastern  coast  ot  any  portion  of  land.  nv. 
what  is  the  same  tliiuL:,  the  western  sides  ot  seas  oi'  inlets, 
haviuir  a  tcndeiicv  at  all  a|ipi'o;icliiiiLr  to  north  and  south,  are, 
at  a  L'iMMi  season  of  the  vear,  i^cnerally  more  enciunhered 
with  ice  than  the  shores  with  an  opposite  asjiect.  The  lour 
followini:  instances  (be  continues)  niav  he  adduced  in  illus- 
Iratiiin  of  this  fact,  and  can  nut  hut  appear  soniew  hat  strikliiir 
when  considered  in  viewiui:  a  :uap  wliicii  exhibits  the  rela- 
tive position  ol  the  shores  in  lj;;..•^^tinn." — V.  17l). 

The  four  instances  he  <rives  tiro  iienerallv  Uiiown,  .'iiiil 


V 


^  *in 


t   to   s<';i. 

inniitlis. 
\',  "  witli 
slmn-    III' 

wish  to 
'  (ltM'i\<'.l 

II    of    liillil 

it  miulit 
V  Uiiuwl- 
!is  t";ir.  iit 
iriillfl  dj' 
;t   voyage 

ilSt  COMst, 

li  other : 

cult  :    hr- 

coiist.  ill 

to     (  "!l|)- 

i-('tiiiirkii- 
ilso  hiivc 
\lf(lm'  dj' 

IICCIlK'llt, 
•'Ul'\    illlil 

r.  Hi'uW 

iiiid  also 

icli  is  (ic- 

s   tor  his 

I'V  to  thi' 

'"rhat   Ih- 

sliowiti!: : 

sllich  li:.-- 
I>r  (it  (Mir 
■I-  li'i,M<ill>. 
:'  l;iii(l,  (11', 

or  inlets, 
siiiilli,  arc, 
I'Uinliereil 

'{"lie  liiur 
(I  ill  illiis- 
at  striking' 
-  the  rela- 

OWIl,  Miul 


r.Miiiv  rf  TUii!!)  \()VA(;i:. 


181 


ailiiiitteil  to  he  as  he  says.  |'"iist.  in  th,.  .Vorih.-Mi  Sea, 
tl"l'i  hit.  Cil  to  ,-(!  .  hiiliiMled  on  thr  ravt  hv  LaplaiKl 
iimi  S|»it/,hfr,ueii,  and  on  the  west  hy  ( i  rre'iiland.  the, 
whole  of  the  latter  coast  is  hloekcd  iij)  hy  i,-,-  tliio'iiufi- 
(iiit  the  siiniiner.  so  as  to  make  it  at  least  a  matter  uHio 
easy  enterprise  to  approach  it.  wiiile  tiie  navigation  of 
the  eastern  portion  of  that  sea  is  aiiniialK  and  without 
(lilticulty  performed  hy  whalers  and  others. 

The  second  instance  is  eijiially  w  ell  known  in  tin-  nav- 
igation of  Davis's  Strait,  whicdi,  tr.,iu  ahoiit  Kesolution 
Maud  in  (il,]  ,  to  the  parallel  of  7u  ,  is  inaccessihl,.  as 
late  as  the  month  of  Aui:iist,  while  the  sea  is  op,.|i  im 
the  eastern  side  of  the  strait  (the  //v.v/,  /•//  ciast  of  (iiccii- 
laiid)  many  weeks  lielnre  that  time. 

'I"h<'  third  he  mentions  is  his  own  case,  when  coustiiK. 
llie  east.'ru  shore  of  .Mtdville  Peninsula,  on  his  lii'si  vo\" 
ii;:e.  so  loaded  with  ice  as  to  make  tho  naviizatiun  dilficult 
and  datiiicroiis. 

'I'he  toiirtli  instance  mentioned  hv  Parrv  is  the  easf- 
eiii  side  of  l-'nx's  (  'liaiinel.  where.  tVoin  thiif  navii;at«\r*s 
acc.Miiit  in  l(i:;i,  and  that  of  r.allin  in  Kii:,.  ••  us  linni  our 
own  ohscrvation,"  tht>re  is  little  or  no  ice  diiriim  the  sum- 
mer season  ;  hut  he  miiilit  also  have  added  tlnn  the  east- 
•  •rn  coast  ot'  Southamptoi.  Uhmd  appears  to  he  alwavs 
choked  with  ice. 

'i'he  foiirt!)  and  last  instance  of  the  same  kind.  ••  wliich." 
says  I'arry,  "I  sjiull  mention,  is  that  of  I'rince  Keo,.,,t\s 
Inler.  and  of  which  the  events  of  this  and  a  former  voy- 
;i::e  fui'nish  too  striking  a  proof,  the  ice  appearinj;  alwavs 
to  cliiiii  to  the  western  shore  in  a  wyy  remarkahle  man- 
ner, wliile  the  opposite  coast  is  '•oiiip  natively  f.vo  tVoiu 
it."' 

And  a  iiftli,  on  account  of  tlie  accumuhitiou  of  ico, 
may  he  ad(h'd  t.)  the  Hst,  hy  mentioiiiiiu  the  southeril 
imd  eastern  coast  of  Mtdville  Island,  whose  sliores  ap- 
J''-arto  he  the  receptacle  of  all  tlu"  ice  tlint  is  di'iven  east- 
ward from  the  western  sea.  of  which  it  is  supposed  to 
iic  tlie  outermost  harrier  island  ;  at  least  Sir.lohn  I'lank- 
lin.  from  tlie  view  h,.  hud  on  the  southern  coast,  thinks 
it  to  he  so. 

( 'aptain  I'any  is  not  a  man  to  act  hastily  or  indiscreet- 
ly, and  it  would  appear  that  the  prefereii"ce  iiiven  to  tliu 


r: 


:'    i 


'I' 

>    I 

t 

■  ',* 


'h 


!1 

i  ^ 


^rmi 


ill 


182 


AUf'TIC    VOYAGK:^. 


w«>st('ni  roiist  WHS  iiillii('iicc(l.  piirily  iit  'cfist.  hy  ati  nv- 
fl(Mit  dt'sift'  nt'  iicijirriiiu  iui  Jicccssioti  1(»  the  t(t'(»iii-ii|)lii- 
c;il  l\ii(»\vlc(|'_M'  of  ;i  sirait  or  iiiirt  wliicli  lii'  liiid  rrasoii  to 
l»('lic\«'  woiilil  ciMKliict  him  into  tiic  I'olar  Sra,  tliroimli 
whicli  liti  coiiccivcil  till-  soiii:lit-l'oi'  piissjiuf  to  tilt'  Pacif- 
ic, coiiM  best  !)('  iiiailc  :  for  lie  says:  "  It  was  tli;-  m-n- 
«iral  ffcliini  !i'  tl'i^  |)('ri(Ml  (-JHli  of  July)  aiuoii':;  lis,  that; 
the  voyaiio  had  hut  now  coiMiiHMKM'd.  Tho  lahors  ol'  a 
had  siimiiici',  and  the  ti'(hiiin  ot' a  Ioii<r  winter,  were  for- 
gotten in  a  iiionient,  when  we  found  ourselves  upon 
jjround  fifif  h'llhrrto  <  .riilnrf  d,  and  with  i'\('vy  a|)pai'ent, 
j)rospec.t  l)efor(^  us  of  inakinij;  as  rapid  ii  proijress  as  tho 
nature  of  this  iiavii,Mtion  will  permit  toward  the  fnial  ac- 
coniplishmeut  of  our  object."  The  ti'endiiiii;  of  the  west- 
ern shoi'e  to  the  westward  mi^lit  also  have  contriixited 
to  the  (dioice  (»f  that  side  ;  th(^  only  surprise;  is,  that  af- 
ter the  cases  he  has  yivcMi,  all  of  tliem  advcM'st;  to  it,  ho 
should  have;  resolved  to  adopt  it. 

TIk;  ships  continucMl  to  proceevl  soutluM'ly  closo  in  with 
tlie  westein  shore,  liavinii  a'/vrnati-ly  open  water  and 
lloatiui:  ice,  to  which  they  had  (  ccasionally  to  inaU(;  fast. 
(hi  the-  "J^^tli  the;  ice  was  observed  to  be  in  ra])id  motion 
towai'd  the;  shore.  The  Jlocia  was  innnediately  beset, 
in  spite  of  every  exertion;  and  after  l)reakin<;  two  of  the 
lar;:;est  ic(;-anchors  in  endeavoriui^;  to  lieave  in  to  the 
shore,  was  obli<:(Ml  to  drift  with  the  ire.  On  the  'JlMli 
the  ships  wer»*  so  (d(»s(;  in  with  the  shore,  that,  after 
shiftiiiij;  the  Ut'cla  into  "•  ^/  /r.s.s  uisernre  hcrfh,''''  Parry 
says  "  he  walked  to  a  broad  valley  farin<rth(;  sea  near  us." 
'IMie  rliffs  next  thi^  sea,  four  or  five  hun(h"ed  feet  in  per- 
pendicular heiiilit,  w«M"(;  continually  breakinij  down  ;  juid 
'"  the  ships  lay  so  close  to  the  shori'  as  to  be  almost  with- 
in the  I'an^e  of  some  of  theses  tum!)linii  masses,  then;  bo 
ing  at  hiiili  water  scarc(dy  beach  enouidi  for  ii  person  to 
walk  alon,2;  the  shore." 

On  the  :;nth  of  .Inly  the  ITecla's  berth  was  shifted  to 
a  greater  distance  from  tlu^  shore,  by  which  Parry  says 
'•the  security  of  th(;  ship  was  much  altered  for  tlie 
W(trse  ;''  the  Fmy  remained  where  sjie  was,  "there 
heinu'  no  seconil  berth  (»ven  Sv)  ^ood  as  tin;  bad  one  where 
niie  was  jiow  lyinii."  On  the  .'Hst  it  blew  a  hard  irale, 
■which  brought  the  ico  closer  and  closer,  till  it  pressed 


/  i 


;. 


rARiiY  a  TiiinD  voyage. 


183 


villi  vory  c;)iisi(l(M*fil)lt' violence  on  hntli  slii|):^,  '•  llioiicli 
the  iiinst  uixtii  tlic  l''iii-y,  wiiicli  I.'iy  in  ii  vt'ry  cxposcil 
siliiiilioii."  'PIio  liccla  liii'l  only  two  or  tlirco  liMWscrs 
liiiikfii.  M;iiiy  tlir  next  moniinu:  (tlio  .".Isf)  ( 'oiimi;iii(l- 
cr  I  loppucr  sent:  to  inroi'iii  Ciiptiiiii  I'iiriy  tliiit  tlio  l''iiry 
li;i(|  lit'cii  tbrccd  on  tli<!  yi-oniid.  wiiiiro  slio  still  liiy.  hnt 
tiiiit  slu'  would  prol);il)ly  he,  \uno  oil"  without  nnich  difli- 
r.illy  at  liigli  water,  ])ro\  idcd  tlu;  external  icj  did  not  pre- 
vent it. 

A  broad  rluuinel  of  water  appearing  at  a,  little  distance, 
iiiid  a  fresh  hi-ee/e  spi'iniiin.u;  up,  the  shi|)s  were  cast,  and 
fiieir  heads  the  ri<.dit  way,  to  reach  tliis  channel,  when 
file  ic(^  came  bodily  in  upon  tin?  ships,  which  were  al- 
ni'ist  instantly  beset,  and  in  such  a  maimer  "as  to  ho  lit- 
erally helpless  and  nnmanaiieabh^'"  (Japtain  Parry  ob- 
serves that,  in  such  cases,  "  tlui  ex"rtions  nnide  by  heav- 
inir  at  hawsers,  or  othei'wise,  are  of  little  more  scrvico 
lliiui  in  the  occupation  they  furnish  to  the  men's  nfnids 
uiidei"  circumstances  of  difficulty  ;  for  when  tlie  ic(;  is 
fairly  acting  against  tlu;  ship,  \rn  times  tlic  strenj^th  and 
ilim'nuity  could  in  i-(!ality  avail  nothinif." 

The  body  of  ice  setting  to  tin;  southward,  the  two 
shi|)s  ',ero  carried  with  it  to  some  short  distatice,  wiiert 
tlie  [Tecia,  after  thus  driviuij;  about  a  mile,  quite  close  to 
the  shore,  struck  tin*  ground  forcibly  scneral  tinu's,  and 
being  brought  up  by  it,  reinaincMl  immovable.  The  Fury, 
cniitinuing  to  drive,  "was  now  in-esistibl}'  carried  past 
us,  and  we  escaped,  only  by  a  few  feet,  the  damage  in- 
variably occasioned  by  sliips  coming  in  contact  undei* 
such  circumstances."  She  drove  about  three  hundred 
yards,  the  ice  pn^ssing  Imr  on  as  well  as  along  the  shore, 
wIkmi  she  received  a  severe  shock  fi-oni  a  largo  lloe- 
piece,  forcing  her  directly  against  a  gi-oundod  mass  of 
i(  (>  upon  the  beach.  The  llecla  and  Fury  continued 
both  aground,  the  latter,  by  lloppner's  report,  so  severe- 
ly "  nii)ped"  and  strained  as  to  leak  a  good  deal,  and  "^hat 
she  was  heavily  pressed  l)oth  upon  the  ground  and  against: 
t(i(!  huge  mass  of  ice.  IJoth  ships,  however,  got  otf  at 
high  water:  but  on  the  night  of  the  second  of  August 
}h(!  ice  once  more  forced  the  Fury  on  shore,  and  the 
iiecia  Jiarrowly  escaped. 

"1  rowed  on  board  tho  Fury,"  says  Parry,  "and 


!'/i 


.    :| 


t     ' 


'i;-  •  1 


IN  I 


AK(  Tii;   \nYA(;r:r^. 


fiiiiml  I'diii'  |miiii|is  cnii^laiilly  L'liir^  tn  lscc|i  llic  sli  |)  t'l  Cf', 
icid  ( 'uiiiiiiiiiiilci'  I  l(ip|MiiT.  lii>  (illicci^  iiiiii  iiirii,  iiliiiKs;, 
rxliiiiisliMl  with  the  iiici  ssinil  liilmi' of  llic  hisl  ciiilll-iiiiil- 
Incly  Ikmii's."  'I'lir  two  coiniiiiiiKlris  set  oiil  in  a  Itoa;  tn 
siii'\cy  till'  slioir  to  tlic  soul  liw  ai'd,  in  x'iiicl)  ol'  a  place 
^^ll»•|•('  lilt'  l-'iiiy,  nnal)!t'  to  iirocfcd  an_\'  tai'tlicr  witlioht 
rt'|)airs.  inij^lit  lie  hove  down,  iiiinons  as  sncli  a  nrccsslty 
most  l»('.  At  aliont  a  mile  rarllin- down  tlicy  IcMUid  a 
place  wliri'c  tlnco  ^roiimlril  masses  ol'  ice  liail  thlt'c  to 
loin"  latlionis  \\  ati'i'  \\  itliin  tlicni.  and  wliicli,  \\  it  li  the  as- 
sistance (daft,  niiulit  aliord  soinetliinu  like  >hellei'.  (hi 
I'nlurniii^.  the  ice  had  closed  in,  so  as  not  only  to  pi-eveiit 
tlii'ir  moving,  hut  that  the  smallest  external  pre>snre  nnisf, 
ine\ital)ly  lofce  them  a>liore.  neither  ship  having  moro 
than  two  teet  ol"  water  to  s|)ai'e.  They  wcic,  howi'ver, 
soon  relieved,  and  lioth  slii|)s  enabled  to  proceed  to  tho 
place  o|"th(>  three  her^s.  where  the  tormation  ot  a  hasin 
was  commenced,  and  completed  hy  the  Idth  ol'  Aii^nsl  ; 
all  the  l'"nry"s  stores.  pro\isions,  and  other  articles  were 
landed,  and  she  was  ho\c  down  on  the  l^th.  A  uale  of 
A\  ind,  Ine.sever.  destroyed  the  lieriis.  and  made  it  necf -- 
sary  lor  hoth  ships  to  he  towed  out  into  the  sea,  tir.  ralli- 
t<r.  the  ice.  'The  l-"my  was  r«doaded,  Imt  on  tlie  •Jl>l, 
this  mdortiniate  ship  was  auain  <h"iven  on  shore. 

As  every  larther  attempt  to  pnt  her  into  a  state  ot" 
repair  was  now  hopeless.  I'arry,  after  visiting  her  for 
the  last  time,  say.^,  "  every  endeavor  of  onis  to  net  he:* 
oil",  or,  if  iiot  oil",  to  lloat  her  to  any  known  |)la('e  ol 
safety,  wonld  he  at  laice  ntterly  hopeless  in  itself,  and 
j)rodnctive  ol"  extrenu^  risk  to  onr  remaining,  shi|)."  A 
survey,  therefore,  was  held  upon  her:  and  ('(Miimander 
lloppner.  with  the  other  officers,  were  ot  opinion  "that 
an  absolute  lU'cessity  existed  for  iihandoiiinij,  llu'  l-'iu'v  :"' 
"  my  (>^vu  opiiiion."  says  i*arry,  ••  l)ein<i  thus  eontirmed 
as  to  the  utter  hopelessiu'ss  of  saving  her,  and  feeliiu; 
more  stronj^ly  than  evi'r  the  I'esponsihility  which  at- 
taclu'd  to  mo  of  prest>r\in!j,  tht<  IJecIa  mduirt,  it  was 
Avitli  exti'i'ine  pain  and  regret  that  I  made  the  siiiiial  for 
the  Kury's  ol'ficers  and  men  to  he  sent  for  their  clothes, 
most  ol"  which  ha  I  i)een  put  on  slatre  with  the  stores." 

The    incessiMit    la'tor.   the    constant   state    of  anxiety, 
and  tin;  tVe(|uent   luid  imminent   danger  into  wlu'jli  tin.; 


rAUItV  ri    THIRD    V()VAi;i: 


183 


lit 


11 


>]\.\}  t"i('f?, 

II,  itlniiivL 
i.:iil-;ii:(l- 
a  Itiiiii  III 
il'  a  |i!;ii'(' 
!•  \\  itliui.t 
lirct'ss.!y 
,'  tiiuiid  a 
I  tlirt'c  111 
h  till-  iis- 

ll.T.        Oil 

I)  |)i('vc;it 
<\\rv  iiiKst, 

lllU     IlKH'O 

liowt'vrr, 

ni  to  tl:u 
«it"  a  liasin 

Aiiiiusl  ; 
cU's  well' 
A  uiiN'  lit" 

it  in'cfs- 
1,  or.  ratli- 

iiic  -n-^i 

slate  ot" 
lirr   till- 
m't  1h'!- 
)!aci'   ol 
-it'll',  and 
lip."'      A 
iiiiaiidcr 
)ii  ••  tlia! 
l-'iirv  :"' 
(iitiniitMl 
1   tVcliii;; 
liicli   Jil- 
r,  it  was 
siiiiial  i'or 
clotlics, 
Nlt)r('s."" 
anxiety, 
iii'jli  tti<.; 


siii'viviiiii  sliip  was  tlu'own.  in  tli.'  atteiiipts  to  save  lier 
(iiiiiraile,  wliicii  wert^  coiil iiiiied  l'ui-  li\e-aiid-t went y 
(la\s,  dotroyeil  every  reasoliaMe  e\|iectalloii  liitlieilo 
clierislied  (if  the  iilliiiiate  aecoiiiplislniieiit  ol'tliis  olijeet. 
'•  I  was  tlieiHlore,"'  says  I'arry,  "  fednced  to  tlie  only 
reiiiaiiniiu  conclusion  that  il  was  my  iliity,  under  all  the 
ciicnnistances  of  the  ciise,  to  return  to  i'lniiland,  in  com- 
pliance with  the  plain  tenor  of  my  instructions.  A.-t 
siMiii  as  tile  lioats  were  hoi>led  up,  therelore.  and  the 
iiiichor  stowed,  the  ship's  iiead  was  put  to  the  norlh- 
ca>t\vard,  with  ii  liyht  aii'  oil'  the  IhikI,  in  order  to  <:iiin 
an  olliiiii  lielore  the  ice  should  a^aiii  set  iii-shore." 

A  hree/e  spriiijiinu  U|)  on  llit^  •J7th  I'ldiii  the  north- 
ward, imiiieiliate  advantai^e  was  taken  o''  il  to  stretch 
(i\er  to  the  eastern  siiore  ol'  I'l'ince  Kei^eiil's  Inlet, 
\sliich  was  done  with  scarcely  any  oll^tl■llctioll  from  ice, 
iilid  the  lle(da  eiiti'red  Neill's  llai'lior  (a  little  to  the 
sniitliward  ol'  Port  l>owen)  in  order  to  prepare  lier 
(iiiiiplelely  lor  crossiiiii;  the  Athntic.  Ilerif  one  man, 
.liihn  I'aiies,  seaman  of  th(!  l''iiry,  departed  this  life, 
liavinu  heeii  for  several  months  affected  with  a  scrotu- 
liiiis  disorder,  tiie  only  case  wiiich  proved  fatal  in  either 
slii|). 

All  heiii^^  I'eady.  and  the  water  clear  of  ice,  the  ( fechi 
weiuhed,  and  stood  out  to  sea  on  the  last  day  ol'  Aiii:nst. 
On  the  first  of  Sejitemher  she  entered  Harrow's  Strait, 
tiie  sea  tln-re  perfectly  open,  hy  which  they  wt-re  ena- 
bled to  hear  away  t(»  iIk.'  eastward.  In  crossini:  Liin- 
caster  Sound  they  ohserved  a  iintre  than  usual  rpiantily 
(if  icebergs,  heiiij:;  in  pro|)orlion  of  at  least  four  to  one 
lliat  they  liad  ever  before  observe<l  there.  'I''hev  en- 
tered iJaflin's  ihiy,  still  in  an  open  sea.  ( )u  the  7th  of 
September  lliey  had  reached  the  latitude  of  7"-'  ."Jd', 
liavinii,  in  the  course  of  eiulity  miles,  only  madt^  a  sin- 
gle tack,  when  they  came  to  tlie  martiin  of  the  ice,  and 
i:ot  into  an  open  sea  on  its  easrerii  side.  At  tliis  time 
there  were  thirty-nine  berils  in  sij^lil,  ••  and  Mime  of 
them  cei'tainl\  not  less  than  'Jdil  feet  in  liei::ht."  ( )n 
tJie  Kith  of  (  )ctober  th(>y  mad(>  Mould  I  lead,  near  tlio 
northwest  end  of  the  (  )rkiiey  l>!aiids.  ("aptaiii  I'arry 
landed  at  Peterhead  on  the  I'Jth.  jind  arriveil  at  the 
Admir.dtv  on  the  Kith  ;   the  lietda  a.t  Sheerness  (Mi  the 


/^ 


\    t 


I  i> 


'     !  ! 


II 


18G 


AIK.'TrC    VOYA(.r,??. 


*00lli  <»r  OctoIxT.  iiml  WHS  paid  oil"  ill  A\'nnl\vic1i  on  tin, 
iJl  >I  ol*  Novciiilicr. 

'I'liis  |ii>t  iitlrmitl  lor  llic  (lix'dv  cry  ol"  n  iioi  tliwcsi 
])nssj|^o,  it  miisl  he  ;i(lMiitIt'il.  is  llio  Iciist  siicccssriil  dj' 
tlio  tlii'oo  thai  ('aptaiii  I'any  has  now  iiiadr,  not  inoirlv 
ns  !(»  any  inlorniiition  iTuardinij;  tlio  passam',  Imt  as  to 
liiiy  rxtcnsion  of  <^t'o^iaplii(  a!  kiiowlrduf  or  ol"  natnral 


hist 


oiv 


()rall  iho  Arctic  conntrics  visited  hy  hiin.  tl 


lo 


two  shores  ot"  Princt'  l\c<;cnt's  Irdct  are  the  most  naked 
nnd  liarren,  tlie  most  dreary  and  desolate,  that  ha\if 
heeti  seen,  n(»t  excepting  even  iMelville  Island  —  not: 
merely  desolat(^  ot"  human  hj'in^s,  hnt  almost  de|>rive(l, 
also,  of  all  animal  and  venetahle  life:  a  ulouniv,  sad,  and 


niidancholv    land. 


We    have    scarcelv 


saNs 


r 


arrv 


"  ever  visited  a  coast  on  whi(di  so  littlt*  of  animal  lite 
<»ccnrs.  I'oi"  days  touether  only  one  or  two  seals,  a  sin- 
gle sea-ln)rse,  and  now  and  then  ii  llock  of  ducks,  vvero 
seeti."  An  exception,  however,  occm'red  in  the  nnin- 
herless  KittiwuKes  tlyiiiii  ahont,  and  some  hiindieds  of 
Avliiie  whales  sporting  ahont  the  |)lac(^  where  the  Fnry 
>\  as  aliandoiied. 

The  transient  view  which  was  taken  of  Prince  lle- 
i:ent\s  sh(»res  on  the  tirst  voyaije  was  f'avorahle  l^noniiil 
to  im|)ress  on  the  mind  of  I'arry,  on  the  failnre  of  liis 
s(>cond  voyage,  that  to  get  lairly  into  the  Polar  Sea, 
"  tln-ro  is  no  knoioi  openinii  whiidi  seems  te  ])resent 
itself  so   tavorahly  t"or  this  jinrpose  as  I'rince  Ke^ent's 


Jidet. 


And  ho  I'l'ix'ats,  in.  the  voyage  now  under  con- 


si(hMiitioii,  ''to  that  point,  therefore,  I  can,  in  the  pre 
ont  slate  of  our  kno\vl(Mlge,  have  no  hesitation  in  si  ill 
n'conimending  that  any  fntni'e  attempt  should  he  di- 
ri'ctiMJ."  His  advic(>  was  followed,  and  a  second  ship 
was  hd't  hehind.  A  third,  it  is  to  he  hoped,  will  never 
again  attempt  this  vile  inlet,  even  althougli  it  has  ;  >\:-r) 
heen  ascertained,  trom  another  (piart(M",  that  its  waters 
do  communicjite  with  the  western  portion  of  the  i'olar 
Sea  ;  su(di  communication,  however,  gives  no  encour- 
ftgement  for  ships  of  any  si/.e  to  make  tlie  trial  of  a 
])assai:e  into  tlii>  Polar  Sea  hy  this  route  ;  hut  more  of 
this  lu'reat'ter. 

An  in(htt"ereut  jierson,  who  has  hut  cartdessiv  alnticed 
ovor  the  tlireo  ex[)cditioiis,  or  unuther  who  has  s;iidi<'d 


rAUiiv  s  riiiRn  voyack. 


187 


v^  ^ 

'^ 

i:' 


(iml  tiilscii  tin  iiifriTst  ill  ilir  siilijt'ct.  wiiild  iiiiKt  |)nil)ii- 
My  niliir  toil  (liKciciit  u|)iiiin)i  JVoiii  ('iiptiiiii  I 'iiiTV.  aiiif 
111'  (ii>|)(is('(|  In  think  tliiit.  ill  iiiiy  I'iirtlicr  scuicli  fur  ji 
miltliwcst  l:H>*siim',  tlio  Slniit  ol'  the  l''liry  iind  llrr|;i 
iiiiil  till-  I'liiMr  Kt'i^cnt's  Inlet  slidiild  rijuiilly  In'  iivftidcd. 
Inc.  Iciidiii:,'  into  oiic  anutlier,  tliry  iiiii>'  In-  (■(nisidcrcrl 
n>  (iiic  mill  till'  siiinc  tiling,  and  aliUi^  uiitiivonildc  fu  sain 
ii;i\  i^'iitiiin.  'Tin'  addiliunal  rncoiirauniirnf  wliicli  Puny 
siiys  lias  hct'ii  airordcd  liy  tln^  liivoralilc  a|)|)i'Hiaiicrs  ol" 
;i  iui\  iLiahli'  sea  iicai'  the  soiitliwi'sttTii  cxlrcniitv  of 
rniicr  l\CL,'riit's  Inlet,  ii'  it  had  any  existence  he. oiiil 
;i|i|)eari!nces,  iiiiiilif  ceilainly  lead  to  the  coiicliisio;!  that 
tile  iiorthein  coast  of  America  could  he  approached  hy 
thiit  route  ;  but  neither  l*ariy  at  this  time,  nor  indeed 
iiiiy  one,  heini;  at  all  a\vare  ol"  what  the  \meri;;an  coast 
cnii.sisted  ol",  with  its  sea  encumltered  with  ice  and  isi- 
iimls,  ami  navigable  only  hy  hoats  or  canoes,  could  havo 
liieii  of  )i  Very  dilfereiit  opinion.  l-'ianUrin  and  Kich- 
iijiison,  Dease  and  Simpson,  liiive  now  fully  aci|iiainte(l 
ii<  with  llie  nature*  of  tliiit  const.  It  is  true  it  is  ii  cu/i- 
tniudi/s  coast  from  tlie  bottom  of  IJ  event's  Inlet,  and 
llierefore  falls  ill  with  the  settled  opinion  of  ('a|)laiii 
i'arry,  who  says  "lie.  is  \nnn)  than  ever  impr(>ssed  with 
the  belief  that  tin*  only  way  in  whi(di  n  ship  can,  with 
tdlerable  certuiiify,  succeed  in  peiietrutinj;  any  coiisider- 
;ilile  distance,  is  by  watching  the  o|)eiiin^s  occasionally 
piiidiiced  by  winds  and  tides  between  a  body  of  ico 
when  detaclied  and  movable,  and  somo  land  rotilluuo'is 
ill  th{^  same  direction." 

This  passage  was  writton  on  tlie  second  voyaue,  and 
remains,  lii>  says,  wholly  imaltei-ed  in  the  present,  which 
is  the  more  remarUabbs  after  the  constant  and  imminent 
dimmer  lo  the  two  ships,  and  the  total  loss  of  oik*  of 
tluiin,  w'hilo  struizi^liiiii;  to  make  way  iilon.y;  continuous 
land,  b(*twcon  which  and  masses  of  ic(\  always  in  mo- 
tion, they  woro  to  makt*  their  pro<;ress.  It  is  din'icult 
lo  iina^ine  liow*  ii  ship  at  aii'.dior,  or  loos(.s  j)lacod  neai' 
the  shore  on  which  lur.uo  masses  of  ico  aro  thrown,  ca- 
pi'iciously  it  may  be  said,  for  it  is  never  known  to  what 
point  they  may  bo  directt.'d,  can  ))ossib|y  escape  destruc- 
tion, especially  anioii,:jj  straits  and  narrow  i)assai;es  be- 
tween isluuds.     Supposu  u  person  of  ordinary  ii  tcllcct 


'  I 


! 


H 


W 


■.•II 


';?'■ 


I 


,  I 


1  MS 


AlUJ'p'  vov.\(;i:h. 


sliMiild  III'  tdlil,  MS  ( '.'iptiiiti  I'.-in-v  will  It'll  liiiii,  tli;it  (liiiii!. 
tilt'  tiiiir  his  .s|ii|)>  wfi't'  iiiiuli'  \n>\  till  tin'  il  iiiL:t'ii>.-, 
cmist  >vlii(;li  liiis  licni  spoken  ol.  "llir  icf  was  M'itiii_ 
tn  ill)'  MMi'hwui'd,  iiiiil  sdiiirtiiiit's  at  it  nipid  I'Utc,  lull 
hrvfii  (lays  iiiit  (il  every  ten,"  Wctiild  ii(»t  siicli  )l  |)er>.iii 
iiatinallv  ask,  why  \\a>  ail\iintaL;e  not  taken  ol  snch  an 
jinxilimy  wln-n  uoin^  in  the  n^ht  dnection  .'  < 'u|)taiii 
Tany  has  replied  to  siirh  a  (pn'stion. 

"  On   MlllMd'ollS  nccil^jnns  llie   >lli|)S  Mlil'llt    ei|<ily   liave   lircu 

iilaicd  anioMu'  the  ice,  ;iiid  lel't  to  drill  u  illi  it,  in  e()ni|>in  iiti\i  , 
it  nut  ahsolule  .-.ecin'il'.',  uhrie  ll;e  liuldin,'  tlii-ni  on  ii;i-  iici'n 
prelericd,  tlionL'li  attendi'd  with  iioin'l\  imd  innninrnt  penl. 
'I'llis  was  |HC(i>elv  llie  tii>e  on  the  |iir>enl  oi  cii-ii  ill  ;  tlic 
hliips  ini^'lit  certainly  iiasr  hfi'n  |Hi-lifd  inin  llie  i<i'  ii  d;i\  m 
two  or  even  a  wrek  helmrlunid,  and  lUu-  |iic-ri\rd  tioni  ail 
ri>k  of  heiim'  forcrd  on  >lioie;  but  \shcir  tliey  wmtld  lia\i 
l)een  drifted,  and  wlim-  tlicv  wonid  have  lieni  ;i:.'ain  di^iMi 
j.':iL.'cd  from  the  ice,  or  at  liherty  to  liiko  iidvantaL'o  of  die  nc 
«'a>ion;il  o|ir!iiiiL.'s  in-shoi-c  (l>v  which  alone  the  naviu'ation  u\ 
tllcM'  se;is  is  to  l»e  |ierl'olliicd  with  anv  deirrer  of  certainty), 
J  helieve  il  ini|to.»il)le  lor  aiis  one  to  Imiiii  the  nio.>t  di>t;iM'. 
i(le:i. '•—!'.  I  i:;. 

It  will,  perhaps,  he  eonsid"red  indisei-eet  in  a  land>- 
man  to  cpiestion  the  opinion  of  tnie  of  such  ureal  nauti- 
cal skill,  and  so  well  e\|)erieneeil  in  the  navigation  of 
seas  hampered  with  iee.  whose  e\ei'|i(»ns  have  heen  so 
honorahle  to  himself  and  sali>i"ar'tory  to  his  emploxers; 
hnt  he  is  of  too  liheral  a  nature  to  take  amiss,  on  a  mai- 
ler of  fact,  what  is  well  na'aiit.  however  it.  may  ddli'r 
iVom  his  own  opinion.  I'idly  persuaded  tliat  lutne  can 
rise  from  the  perusal  (d' his  "Northern  \'oyai:<'s"  with- 
onl  heiny  impressed  with  u  decided  eonviftion  that  his 
merits  as  an  ollicer  ami  scientific  iiaviuator  are  of  the 
highest  onUn- ;  that  his  talents  ai'e  not  eoiilined  to  his 
))rofessi(nial  duties,  hnt  that  the  I'esoiirces  of  his  mind 
are  e(pial  to  the  most  ardiKUis  situations,  and  fertile  in 
I'xpedieiits  under  every  cireuiiistaiice.  however  dillienlt, 
(laiiiieroiis,  or  unexpected — sindi  a  man  may  safely  ven- 
ture, not  merely  to  t(»lerale.  hut  even  to  iii\  ite  ci-itieism, 
when  candidly,  ll.ule^tly.  and  faithl'iilly  ol'fered.  Tai' 
ry"s  lieart  still  continues  to  clin^  to  the  aeeonii)lishiiieiit 
of  a  northwest  passage,  ami  most  nnd(>uhtedly  would  put 
in  practice  smdi  measures  as,  in  his  opiifuni  and  expert- 


a 


I'M'.uv  ri  Tiiiitn  vovacf;. 


ISO 

•f.      Mm 


,  iii'i<.  lit'  cotisiili-rs  iiiMst  likely  to  iiftiiiii  tliiif  uli|<'c 
>;i\  ■>  : 

••  I  I.  I  I  (1  mill  lent  thill  liir  iiiiilci  tukiiiL'.  if  it  lir  ilrrinril  ad- 
•,,«,il.lc  at  aiiv  tiitinf  tiiiir  In  |iiir>iir  it,  uill  iiiif  day  or  ntlicr 
!„■  ariniiiiili-iii'd  ;  |li|-.  M-tliiiu:  a>idr  tin-  aci'ldciit-  to  uliicli. 
tiniii  tlifir  \rrv  iiatiirc,  >inli  altcmpN  iiiii<t  In-  liahjc.  a-  \m'11 
.,,  nilicr  iiidavdialdf  circimi^taiHr.-.  wliii  li  liniiiaii  rHn>ii.'lit 
,111  iirsfi'  i.'nai'il  ajaiiist  imr  liiiiiiaii  |Mi\vfi-  cnii,  nil,  I  can  Mnt 
li  ii  l)clif\<'  it  III  In-  ail  fiit<'r|>i-iM'  well  williiii  tin'  icasdiiahltf 
mii>  III'  |)ra(  licaiiility.  It  may  lir  tried  oltni.  and  dltcii  liiil, 
\,<y  ■.I'scial  laviiraltlf  and  jiiriiiiiatr  (■irciiiii>Iaiu'cs  iiiiist  In- 
( iiiiiiiiiM'd  liii'  its  a(coiii|tli>lniii'iil  :  Imt  1  Uriirvf.  iir\  crtlic- 
,.  -..  llial  it  ;r^//  iiltimali'ly  Wr  ai((iiii|ili-lH'd." — I'.   I:!  I.   Ili."). 

Ill'  tjiics  nil  t(»  siiy.  "  I  titii  tiiiicli  inistiiUt'ii  iiidrcd  it' 
till'  Hurt  llW  ••>l  |)a>>iiut'  rvcf  licroiiio  tlie  lillsillcsH  ui  il 
>iiij:lf  ^mllllll■|•:  iiuy.  I  ladirvc  that  iiiitlniiu  Imt  si  cuiiciii-- 
M'liei'  III"  \('|-y  t'ii\ofiil)|r  ciffiliiistaiici'S  is  liUrly  r\('\\  to 
iiiakr  II  siiiulf  ivi'ihr  in  tlif  icf  siit'licifiit  for  its  accoiii- 
|,ri-|iiiiciil.  lint  this  is  no  iifiiMiiifiit  aL'iiiiist  the  possi- 
'i,lit\  of  liiiiil  siicccns  ;  loi-  we  now  know  ihnt  ii  wiiitcf  in 
ill.'  KM'  iii;iv  lit'  |iu>st'd  not  only  in  sal'i'ty,  Imt  in  hfiiltli 
;iiid  coinfoft."  This  is  \ry\  tnif,  iit  loiist  in  his  own 
pailicnliif  ciist'.  who  liiid  so  many  rt'soiifccs  at  his  coni- 
iiiaiid  :  iiiid  lit)  iilijcction  liiii  lit'  niist'tl  cm  the  fitliritioniil 
'■S|i('iisi'  in  woar  and  tcai'.  in  |)ro\i-.ioiis  and  stttrcs.  iiiid 
in  tilt'  doulilt'  pay  ttf  tillict'fs  uiid  iiii'ii,  cxft'iit  hy  that 
jiaiticniiif  '-'ass  ot"  pcfstms  known  hy  tlif  iianic  ofiitilita- 
nniis;  the  lilx'iiil-niitidcd  would  not  considci-tht'  inn-eased 
expense  thrown  away  when  the  honor  of  the  iiatit)ii.  tlit^ 
interests  of  seienee.  the  impro\ t'lneiit  of  niivii;atioii,  iind 
till'  eiii|)loyiiient  of  tmr  rising  otlieers  and  liest  seamen, 
are  the  objects   eont empliited. 

While  on  this  point,  it  is  too  reiiifirkiilile  ti  circiiinsttmee 
to  lie  omitteil,  that  none  tif  onr  early  iiiiviiiators  in  the 
I'olar  re<iions  ever  passed  a  winter  there,  and  rarely  lost 
one  of  their  small  and  fra;:;ile  harks  i)l'  ■")•>,  10,  .".o.  ;mil 
down  to  l')tons.  Parry  lakes  ticctisioii  to  liestow  a  well- 
di'sei'ved  teslimoiiy  to  the  valiiiihle,  iierseverinjj;,  and  ex- 
traordinary laliors  of  these  men. 

••  I  >liniilil  lie  diilliLT  liilt  illljifiti'ct  justice  to  the  IllellMrv  of 
tlir-e  e.xtra  nidi  nary  men,  as  well  as  to  my  own  seii>e  ot  their 
merits,  if  I  pei-iiiitted  llie  present  o[i[iortuiiity  to  pass  witlioiiL 


, 


I    I 


M 


■  # 

Ml 


lliO 


MICTIC    VOYAGES. 


ofTcriii!!  a  still  more  oxplicit  niul  decided  t(^stiiiinny  to  tlic  vul- 
lie  (it  their  lalxirs.  'I'lie  ;ic;((iiiut.->  iit  il  iuImiii.  ISalliii,  and  Di- 
vis  (and  lif>t  of  all,  I' r()l)i>|jer)  ai'c  llic  jirodiictidus  (irmni  nf 
liM  coiiiiiinii  stamp,  'i'liev  evidently  relate  lliiiiL's jii-it  as  they 
haw  llieni.  dv.fllin;;  on  such  iia'itical  and  liydi-nLriapliieal  nn- 
tices  •,\:.,  even  at  tliis  dav.  aie  valuable  to  any  seaman  i/ninir 
over  the  same  •rrniind,  and  deseribinir  every  appeai'ance  nt 
nature,  whether  ou  the  land,  the  sea,  or  tlii'  ice,  with  a  t\i-- 
^Mce  ot  iiiilhruhiess  which  run  alone,  pcrlia[»s,  lie  didy  apjiif- 
cialed  hy  those  who  succeed  them  in  the  same  re;,Moiis  and 
under  similar  circum>tances.  The  ^'eneral  outline  of  the 
lands  they  discovered  was  laid  down  l)y  themselves  with  sue  li 
•'xti'aordinary  ]irecisioii,  even  in  lon;,'itude,  as  scarcely  to  n-- 
<)uire  correction  in  modern  times;  of  winch  jiict  the  olde>l 
maps  now  extant  of  liatlin's  J5ay  and  the  Straits  of  JIudsna 
and  Davis,  constructed  from  the  ori:,'inal  materials,  will  alliird 
.siitlicient  ])ro(»f.  The  same  accuracy  is  observable  in  their 
accctunts  of  the  tides,  sonndinirs,  antl  bearintrs,  phenomena  in 
which  the  la[)se  of  "JOU  years  can  have  \vi-ou:;ht  but  little 
fhaiiue.  It  is,  indeed,  impossible  for  any  one  personally  ac- 
(|nainted  with  the  plienoiuenii  of  the  icy  seas  lo  penise  the 
l)lain  and  impretendin^  narratives  of  Uiese  navigators  'Aitli- 
»)Ut  recoL'iiizinu  in  almost  every  event  they  relate  some  cir- 
cumstance familiar  to  liisown  recollt.'clionand  experience,  and 
ineelin:,'  widi  jnnnl»erless  remarks  which  bear  most  nnecpiiv- 
ocally  aI)out  them  the  im])ress  of  truth. 

"  \\'hile  thus  doimr  justice  to  the  faithfulness  and  accuracy 
with  which  they  recorded  their  discovi'ries,  one  can  not  le^s 
admire  the  intre|>id!ty,  perseveraiu .  ,  and  skill  with  which. 
inade(|uately  furnished  as  they  \ver(>,  those  discoveries  w.'re 
ellected,  and  every  dilHcidty  anil  dani,a'r  braved,  'i'hat  any 
man,  in  a  single  frail  vess(d  of  live-and-twenty  tons,  ill  iimiid 
in  mitst  respeets,  and  wholly  improvided  for  wintering,  hav- 
ing to  contend  with  a  thousand  real  diUlcullies,  as  well  as 
with  inimberless  imaginary  ones,  which  the  superstitions 
then  existing  among  sailor  woidd  not  fail  to  (cajure  u|i — 
that  anv  man,  mider  such  i  ircmnstances,  .should,  two  hun- 
dred years  ago,  iiave  ])ersevere<l  in  accomplishing  wh;it  our 
old  navigators  did  accompli.-h,  is,  I  confess,  sutlicient  to  cre- 
ate in  mv  mind  a  feeliin,'  of  the  highest  pride  on  the  ono 
liaiid.  and  almost  appi'oaching  to  humiliation  on  the  otliei';  of 
])ride.  in  remembering  that  it  was  aiir  countrvmen  who  per- 
I'ormed  these  exploits;  of  humiliation,  when  1  consider  how 
little,  wiih  all  our  advantages,  irc  have  succeeded  in  going 
lieyond  them. 

"  Indeed,  tile  longer  our  experience  has  been  in  the  navi- 
jiition  of  the  i(  v  sea-,  and  the  more  intimate  our  uccjuaint- 


''.    ,1 


^  1 


PARRY  d   TIIIUD    VOYAGE. 


191 


i 


V 


i 


ly  In  llio  viil- 
liii,  iiiiil  1)1- 

IS  ot'llirii  lit' 
vi'lSt,  ilS  llii.y 

Illllilll     J.'()iljir 

iraniiicf  (jt 
,  will]  ;i  il,.. 
(Inly  Jippiv- 
I'l'Lrioiis  ;n;(l 
lint.'  (if  til,. 
•S  Wilh   siirli 

ii'ci'ly  to  n- 
:  llic  ()!(!(■>[ 
of  iliidxiu 
,  will  ;iImm(1 
)li'  ill  tlicir 
I'lioiiiciia  ill 
t    ])Ht    littli; 

rsonally  ac- 
jiiTU.-r   tlir 

:ator.s  wiih- 
'  sonic  cir- 
■rifucc,  and 
st  iinc(|iiiv- 

1(1  acciiracv 
'aii  not  Ic-^s 
.itli  wliicli, 

■('(•il\S  \\,T(J 

'J'liat  any 
IS,  ill  t()iiiiil 
(•rin,u%  Iia\- 
as  Well  as 
ij)('rsti!iiii!s 
ajurt!  up — 
,  two  hiiii- 
,'  what  our 
out  1(J  cic- 
)U  llie  Olio 
3  other;  of 

I  who  ])cr- 
isidcr  how 

II  ill  goiii^' 

[  the  navi- 
•  Ht(juaiiit- 


ancp  witli  all  its  diHicnllifs  nnd  all  its  ]iivrario!isnf'>s,  tlio 
lii:.';irr  lia\t>  oiir  adniii-atiou  and  rcspoct  liccii  raised  for  those 
who  wi'iil  hrfiii-f  us  in  IIh'sc  ciitcriiriscs.  rcrsov  oriiiL:  ill 
(i'tlicultv,  iinappallcd  by  daimi-r,  and  palicnt  undci-  ili>tri'ss, 
tiii'V  scaicclv  ever  u.-o  "the  laiii_'iiai:i'  of  coniiilainl,  much  Irs.s 
tliai  of  despair;  and  sonietinn-s.  when  all  human  hope  seems 
at  its  lowe.-t  elil),  they  furni.-h  ihe  iiio>t  lieaulihd  examples 
of  that  ilrm  reliaiic('  on  a  merciful  and  superintendinir  I'rovi- 
(Icneo  wiiich  is  the  only  rational  source  of  true  fortitude  in 
man.  (Jl'teii.  with  tlieii-  narratives  impressed  upon  my  mind, 
and  surrounded  hy  the  very  diilicultii's  which  they  in  their 
frail  and  inellici(Mit  biirks  undauntedly  encountered  and  over- 
came, have  I  been  tempted  to  exclaim,  with  all  the  enthusi- 
asm of  I'urchas,  *IIow  shall  I  admin*  your  heroicke  couraire, 
ve  niai-ine  worthies,  beyond  names  of  worthinessl'  " — 1'.  ll'A, 

This  is  tho  thifd  and  hist  attcniiit  of  Cuiitiiin  Parry  to 
discover  a  iiorthwivst  passage  from  th(^  Atlautie  to  tho 
I'acific,  but  it  is  by  no  means  his  last  attempt  at  I'olar 
discovery;  it  has,  in  fart,  been  f()llo\ve(l  up  with  an  en- 
terprise not  mort^  novel  than  perilous — an  attempt  to  ap- 
proiich  the?  North  Pole,  in  which  ho  will  atraiu  appear, 
in  the  jiresent  narrative,  in  that  bold  and  fearless  charac- 
ter, whi(;ii,  if  't  fail  -A'  coniplet(^  success,  will  at  least 
most  luiquestionably  have  deserved  it. 

it  may  not  be  iiniiss,  in  closini^  thv,  narrative  of  this 
voyaue,  to  insert  a  few  desultory  remarks  cliielly  lVoi'» 
tlie  Appendix.  Duriiiij;  tlie  winter  months  inwhiclitho 
ships  wen^  shut  up  in  JJowen's  Harbor,  tlio  respectivo 
ollicers  employed  tluMiiselves  in  collecting  and  arraiiiiing 
the  oliservatioiis  that  were  made  in  tiie  com-se  of  tho 
voyaue,*  down  to  thi^  period  of '  their  release,  a  very 
hriid" extract  from  which  must  hero  serve.  It  is  almost 
luuiecessary  to  say  that  al]  astronomical  ohsorvatioiis 
connected  with  naviiiiition  were  strictly  attended  to  by 
the  comieander  of  the  expedition  and  his  colleaiziie  Ilopj)- 
iier,  by  Lier tenants  Foster,  Sherer,  Rnss.  and  by  Mr. 
Hooper,  as  observations  for  determining  the  longitnde: 

l')y  occultations  of  fixed  stars. 

iVy  lixed  stars  o.nd  the  Moon — Fester. 

*  Then'  i.^  mi  A]ipPTi(li\'  in  tlm  HiH'oml  VciyM^c  :  tlio  f'(>i',.('ti(iiH  of  nat- 
unil  hi^■tury,  laid  ccrlaiu  ul'  Ihc  ub.-crvatiuui,  iirc  included  in  the  jirus..  iit 


'        I 


'I 


'  n 


! 


i 


i-:rrm 


ill 


102 


/.UCTIC    VOYAGErJ. 


n  ,; 


Tiy  transit  (iftlic  Mrio,) — I'osfcr. 
i^v  .hi|iitri-'s  siitcllitcs — l'"(i>tci-. 
M;iLrncli('  (lip  oriiccdli  —  l';irry  um]  Kostor. 
\  ni'iiilioii — I 'iii'iy  1111(1  vnrioiis  (illiccrs. 

'V\\r  IJoanl  of  Loiiiiitiidc  luiviiiif  siiiii^t'stcd  tliii!  oik- 
(if  lii('  objects  ot"  the  present  voyiiiii^  siioiild  he  tlie  d,'- 
teriiiiiiiitioii  of  tht^  liuure  of  tlie'eiirlh,  by  nieaiis  of  th(! 
vibration  of  a  peiidiibiiii,  the  apparatus  of  Captain  Hen- 
ry Katei'"s  ooiistrnetion  was  sn|)plie(l  to  the  e\pe(hrion, 
and  placed  in  char<;('  of  lieutenant  IJenry  Foster.  As 
it  was  necessary  tliat  tin'  nunil)er  of  vilirations  of  tl.(; 
sanu!  pendiiluin  should  be  known  at  dilfei'ent  ))laces.  .Mr. 
I'ond,  the  Astronomer  iloyal,  allowed  the  trial  to  Im- 
)na(le  at  (Jreenwich.  Tln^  results  of  the  experiments, 
as  stated  by  Jiieiitenant  Fostei",  ^i\o  brielly — 

N'luiibcr  ei' vibrations  at  (treenwicli  .        .   lU\,\'i9,4:il 

Ditto  at   i'orl  iiowea  .         .   !;()VJ:30,-J  1-J 

lAMi^'tli  of  seconds'  i)en(lulnni  in  the 

latitude  (if  (irecnwich  ....  :]n-]:5f»l  1  inches. 

I>ilt()  at  Tort  J'xiweii  :].'*-2();!  }(>!!    do. 

WhiMic(%  Mr.  Foster  says,  the  fraction  ex})ressini^  the 
diminution  of  gravity  from  the  pole  to  tlio  eciuator  is 
()05n.j'>,  and 

The  eliinticily  of  tli(^  "arlli,       ' 

'i'liat  of  the  Frencli  i:e(ini(,'tri('jaiis,  — L__, 
Sal)in(>  from  tiie  north. L_. 

LM  It-l 

8abnie,  .^h•lville  Island.        ' 

From  Lieut(>nant  .fames  Clai'ke  T\oss  the  Apponchx 
eontiiins  a  l)rief  account  of  the  (piadi'iipeds,  birds,  tishes, 
and  insects,  and  invertebrate  animals.  There  is  also  an 
Hccoiuit  by  Sir  William  Hooker  of  the  plants  found  in 
th(f  course  of  this  voyaue.  Tliese  maybe  bi-itMly  stated 
!is  inider,  embracing  both  east  and  west  coast  of  this  j)or- 
tion  of  America. 

Q>i'rJru;>r,/s.—T\ii'  Polar  P,car— Arctic  Fox— Lennnin" 
—  Tolar  1 1  an  —  Reindeer— Uou-h  Seal— Black  Wliah — Nur. 
wiial. 

^  li/n/s. — Iceland  Falcon— Snowy  Owl — RavcMi— Lapland 
Finch— Snow-IJuntinf:—l'tannij.'an— Rock  (Iroiis*^ — Willow 
Fartrid-e— Cioklcu   J'kjver— FhakiroiMs  'J  species— Gulls.  H 


> 

I  '     1 


PARRY  ri    THIRD    VOYAGE. 


193 


s)v-rirs — Kidcr  Ducks,  nml  vjtrions  oflnM-s — Liftlo  Aiik,  and  2 

..lIliTS. 

fishrs. — ()|)lii(liiitn.  i  sjxH'it's — Cnttiis, 'J  spiM'ios — riciiro- 
lii'ctrs,  iKil  vt'i-y  uiiiiicrnus. 

Iiisrrfs. —  1-J  s|)f(ifs,  .J  of  tln'iu  Spiders,  1  Bci',  1  Ant,  I 
(liiat.  1  Piutlci-lly;  llif  other  fi'.ir  ;ire  ISiiuuliiiin,  Clendphone, 
J'xiiiiliiis,  Mild  Boinhvx. 

Tln^  litvi  rlrhrnlr  iinim.  Is,  whicli  juv  iniiiuM'ous,  iuid 
not  of  very  fiimiliiirized  iiinin>s  in  fjiitiii,  iiiiiy  1h;  imssod 
over. 

Tlip  ]5ot}iny  of  tho  last  two  voyao;os,  hy  Sir  William 
Iloolxcr,  «Mni)nirps  •,>!  famiru's  u\  tlic  iialural  order,  hut, 
as  he  ohsorves,  "a  siiiall  mmilx'r  of  s])(>eit's,  owiiifj;  tu  the. 
fiw  opportunities  that  were  afforded  I'oi-  the  ofticers  to 
CO  on  shore,  as  w<dl  as  to  llie  exti'eme  [  verty  of  tho 
soil  in  those  pliices  that  wer(^  visited.'' 

Of  tlu^  notes  on  the  ^reoloyy  of  the  countries  visited, 
in  the  second  and  the  prt>sent  voyage,  hy  Professor 
Jaineson.  who  also  ^ives  a  i'ew^  concludinij  remarks  on 
the  iieoloixy  of  the  i'our  Arctic  Expeditions,  a  brief  ah- 
.xtiact  is  as  follows  : 

1.  ''I'hat  the  regions  explored  ahomid  in  primitive, 
transition,  and  secondary  rocKs  ;  partial  alluvial  deposits; 
iii'Jern  volcanic  rocks  not  met  with  ;  f(>w  traces  of  ter- 
tiary strata. 

•J.  That  primitive  and  transition  islands  at  one  time 
])rol)al)ly  connected,  and  formeil  a  mass  with  the  conti- 
nent of  America,  in  the  ))lains  and  hollows  of  wlfudi  wei(; 
'ieposited  tin?  secondary  limestones,  sandstones.  <i;vpsum, 
and  coal:   on  these,  aixain,  the  tertiary  i-ocks. 

.■;.  4.  .).    l*urely  si)eculative. 

(i.  The  bowlders  or  rolled  blocks  afford  evidence  of  tlic 
passafje  of  water  across  the  places  whei(^  found. 

7.  \o  traces  oJ'  thr  aiiency  of  modern  volcanoes  any 
^vhe|•e  except  in  .Ian  Mayen's  Island. 

^\  No  intimations  of  older  volcanic  action,  except  in 
the  presence  of  secondary  trap  rocks.  su(di  as  basidt, 
iiieenstone,  trap  tufa,  a. id  ainyirdaloid. 

II.  That  black  bituminous  coal  (t'le  oldest  formation) 
louiid  in  MelvMi'  island  and  in  ()!d  (ireeiiland.  forms  an 
interest  in<:  feature  in  tlie  i;eo,i;uustical  constitution  of  Arc- 
tic counti'ies. 

i;i  R 


i,(i 


'1^ 


JlM'' 


>  ■• 


■11191 


194 


ARCTIC    VOYAGES. 


i 
I 
:    t 


]0.  Tlnit  llio  rod  sjuiflstono  of  Possossior.  V>\.\,  cVc. 
r('ii(l(n'.s  il  prchahic  tluil  rock  salt  may  occur  iii  tluit  (jUiir- 
ter. 

1  1.  That  \\u  rc^Noiis  explored  by  f'aptain  I*arry  liavc 
un'orded  varioib:  iiiterestiii<;  and  lli,^ldy  ustd'ul  ores,  siicli 
as  octahedral,  or  Mia<iiietic  iron  oris  rhoinhoidal,  or  rnl 
ii'OM  ore;  |)risiiiatic,  or  hrowii  iron  oi'o  ;  and  cln'oniiitc 
ot"  iron  ;  also  thi!  conniion  or«?  ot"  copper,  or  copper  j)y- 
I'ites,  and  snlphuret  of  niolylxhcna ;  ore  ot"  titanium,  aiifl 
tliat  valuable  mineral,  ;^raphite,  or  blacU-lead. 

I'i.  That  ^ems  are  not  wanting  in  thc^  Arctic  reuious 
is  proved  by  the  abiuidance  of  tlie  {)recious  fiarnet,  which. 
on  moi'e  particular  examination  of  the  primitives  idcks. 
will  no  doubt  be  I'ound  to  ])i'eseut  all  the  beautiful  coIoin 
and  elefz;ant  forms  for  which  that  stone  is  so  nnudi  aii- 
mired.  Rock  crystal,  bei-yl,  and  zircon  have  also  been 
met  with. 

!;>.  ^J'hat  tlu'se  countries  exhibit  the  same  fieneral  i;c- 
oiiuostical  ari'anuements  as  occur  in  other  countries  c\- 
jiuiined  l)y  tht^  naturalist;  "a  fact,"  says  the  jjrofessor, 
"  which  streuiithens  that  opinion,  which  maintains  tliat 
the  <2;reat  featirres  of  nature  in  the  miiUM'al  kin<r(lom  iiit- 
every  where  similar,  and  consequently  tluit  tin;  same 
jieiKM'al  agencic^s  must  have  ))revailed  ii;eiu*rally  during 
the  formation  of  {\\v.  solid  mass  of  the  .-arth." 

14.  And  Professor  Jameson  concludes  his  remarks  in 
the  1  1th  ])araij:rap)i  with  a  ijeneral  observation,  so  bciui- 
lifully  express(;d  in  lauiiua^e,  and  so  true  in  substance, 
that  it  would  bc^  well  worth  the  attention  of  the  modern 
])liysiologist,  with  his  mic  creations  ^)Y'm[i\\\)i  out  ol' Ji i  rij 
vt/s/s,  to  leave  his  unsul)stantial  visions,  and  imitate  the 
professor's  creed, 

"  'I'hat  the  ap[)areut  irre^nilarities  wliicli  at  first  si^lit 
present  themselves  to  our  attention  in  the  i,M-aiid  nrnnii.'i'- 
iiKMils  in  the  iniiici-al  kinirdoiii  arc  the  otVs|)rini,'  of  oni'  own 
feel)!).'  powers  ol'  obscrvalioii,  and  tUsnppcar  when  the  phe- 
liouieua,  are  examined  in  ;ill  their  relations.  Il  is  then,  in- 
tleed,  that  llie  iniud  obtains  tliose  endnriiig  and  sul)liine 
views  of  llie  power  of  the  Deity,  wiiieli,  in  ixeoloiry,  rewiir;! 
llie  patient  (ibserver,  raise  oii(>  of  tlie  most  beautiful  and  in- 
terestiiiif  departments  of  natural  science  to  its  true  rank,  and 
prove  tliat  its  relations  connect,  as  it  were,  in  the  scale  of 
itiairnitude,  the  phenomena  of  the  earlli  witli  those  more  e.v- 


t  1 


\  , 


hH 


TARRY  S    THIRD    VOYAGE. 


195 


V,vy,  cVc. 

1  tllilt  (jUill- 

Parrv  Innc 
I  oi'cs,  .such 
idiil,  or  ltd 
chroiiiiitf 
copper  j)v- 
uiiiuiM.  aiifl 

•tic  rcii'iDUs 
net,  Avhicli. 
ili\(^  rocks, 
itit'itl  colors 
iiiucli  aii- 
.',  tilso  been 

^eiKM'iil  ;:('- 
untrics  c\- 
'  j)rotVss()r. 
iiitii'ms  tliat 
iii^doni  iiic 
;  tluj  Scuiic 
•ally  duriiii; 

rcinai'ks  in 
n,  so  Ix'iiu- 
suhstaiicc, 
li(^  modern 
out  oi'Jii  /■'/ 
iniitato  the 

t  first  sii,'!it 
lid  iirraiii:!'- 

of  oui'  own 
cii  the  [ilii'- 

is  tlieii,  la- 
nd suhlinie 
i)>:y,  reward 
itit'ul  and  iii- 
le  rank,  and 
he  scale  of 
se  more  e\- 


f('n>ive  arraiiircnicnts  presented  to  oar  iiitcljiircncc  in  tla^ 
pliaetary  >ysteiM.  and  in  the  grand  I'raiueuork  nt  the  universu 
it-ilt." — App.,  [).   101. 

('a()taiii  l*any,  in  ohservinj;  on  tlie  extreme  facility 
with  which  sounds  are  heard  at  considerahle  distances  in 
severely  cold  weather,  relates  a  circumstance  that  occnr- 
rnl  at  Port  Uowen  in  conlirniation  of  the  tiu-t.  '•  Ideu- 
ti'nant  Koster  hiivin<;  occasion  to  send  a  niiui  from  tlus 
ahservatory  to  the  opposite;  shore  of  the  harbor,  a  meas- 
invd  (listanc<^  of  (WIlHi  teet  (about  a  mile  and  two  tenths), 
in  order  to  lix  a  nu-ridian  mai-k,  had  placed  a  second  per- 
i^nn  iialf  way  between,  to  repeat  his  directions;  but  ho 
t'unnd,  (»n  trial,  that  this  jirecaution  was  unnecessary,  as 
he  coidd  without  dilficully  keep  up  a  conversation  with 
tliemanut  the  distant  station,  'j'he  tli(!rnH)nieter  at  the 
tinu"  waslH^;  tlu^  barometer,  ;j()-14  inches;  weather 
(aim,  clear,  and  sei-one." 

The  Aurora  is  stated  to  liave  app  -ared  forty-seven 
nitdits  from  October  to  March,  fifteen  times  in  .lanuarv, 
five  in  March,  and  two  in  October.  Xothiuii  particular 
is  said  of  its  appearance,  and  no  oiu^  ever  iieard  any 
soiuid  produced.  'JMie  Aurora  had  no  elfect  on  the  va- 
riation needles,  which  were  susptiuled  (not  supporUd) 
ill  th(3  mo.st  delicate  manner. 

The  atmosj)here  durin-i  the  winter  montlis  is  stated  to 
liave  been  fivorable  to  the  excitement  of  (dectricity ;  but 
none  could  be  made  apparent,  though  I'arrv  says  the 
electrometer  with  ^mld  Icuf  w;,s  applied  to  "the 'clmin, 
which  was  attached  to  the;  mast  head  by  irlass  rods,  the 
upper  link,  abov*;  the  mast  head,  beiiiy  11";  feet  al)ov(3 
the  level  of  the  sea  ;  but  it  was  without  the  slightest 
jierceptible  effect. 

A  word  on  the  difference  of  temperature,  and  of  tho 
different  quantities  of  ice  on  the  east  and  west  shores  of 
continents,  islands,  or  straits  :  a  well-known  fact,  but 
wlpch  does  not  appear  to  have  been  satisfactorily  ex- 
jiliiined— why  tiie  Avestern  coasts  of  (continents  an'd  isl- 
ands, of  straits  and  inlets,  should  be  l-ss  subject  to  bo 
liainpered  Avith  ice  than  the  eastern  ones  ?  The  fact  is 
decidedly  so,  as  many  instances,  in  ad(htion  to  th<»so 
mentioned  by  Captain  Parry,  miyht  be  given.  If  tho 
cii^terly  winds  wero  tho  must  pruvulent  and  powerful, 


^    I'! 


rv 


I  t 


I  1 


!^ 


mm. 


mm 


\l 


190 


aucth;  voyages. 


■    I 


'\ 


the  fl()»'s  iiiid  iii;i>^s('s  ol"  ic(!  wouM  no  dotilit  lie  driven  hv 
tlicni  to  till"  ca-iciiy  const  ;  Ijnl  it  would  riitlioi"  iipprin- 
llint  witliiii  tlio  Arctic  ( 'ii'clc  tlio  nortlicrly  iiiid  wrstciiv 
\viiids  mostly  pifvnil.  Tlic  sjiiiic;  tliinjj;  ohtiiins  with  rc- 
.ijiird  to  t(!iii|)('i!iliirc.  whether  on  the  coasts  ol"  continents 
or  islands,  or  even  in  the  hroad  streets  ol"  towns,  lyiny  in  a 
north  and  south  diriiction.  'i'luis,  on  the  western  coa>t  of 
AuM-rica,  up  as  lar  as  ( "ook's  l\iv»'r.  between  the  latitude 
of  .')■')  and  (id  ,  the  little  certhias  an(]  the  huniMiiii;.'-i)ir(ls 
are,  said  tf>  Ik^  (diir|)inif  and  suiuinL\  when  t'roiii  New- 
loundland  in  aO  ,  down  to  I'hiladclpliiii  in  10  ',  t'lost  and 
snow  cover  the  wat(!r  and  th«i  liround.  At  home,  the 
dil'lerencei  ot"  temperature  hetwcHii  tlio  wosteni  coast  or 
islands  ot"  Scotland  and  tiie  eastern  coast  is  so  {^reat,  that 
the  !at(^  Lady  llute  found  tile  Isle  (»1  JJute  more  coll^e- 
nial  with  her  constitution  tlian  even  Kniihnid.  'I'he  coast, 
of  J  )evonshire  is  ot' a  nnudi  milder  temj)erattu'e  than  ihe 
coast  of  Norfolk.  ( )n  the  same  j)rmciple,  the  east  sidr 
of  Iveiient-street,  faciiii:  the  west,  will  always  he  found 
more  dry  and  Wrc  from  moisture  than  the  o])posite  side, 
facing  the  east:  and  so  will  the  east  side  of  lleiicnt's 
Park  he  moi'e  (h'v,  <nid  the  houses  more  free  from  moist- 
ure, than  on  the  western  side. 

From  what  ciiiise  does  this  proceed  .'  May  it  not  lie 
explained  hy  the  tact  that,  at  o)'  a  little  hefore  sunri-e. 
the  temperatiu'e  of  the  atmosjdiere  is  much  lower  than 
at  or  a  little  aftei-  sunset,  and  tliat,  from  tlie  foi-mer  pe- 
riod to  the  nu-ridian,  the  inllueiice  of  the  snn  is  consid- 
erahly  less  than  i'vnin  the  meridian  to  tlie  latter:  in  otli- 
C'l-  W(»rds,  that  the  power  of  the  sun  dui'inii  the  first  h.tlf 
of  tlie  day,  when  liis  ravs  iiass  over  the  eastern  land,  is 
liuudi  less  than  when  he  is  pourin;::;  his  heams  on  the 
^veste|•n  land  for  the  second  half"  of  the  day  ?  If  it  h(! 
conceded  that  the  settiiii:  smi  sluMldinii  its  riiys  on  a  west- 
o,vi\  coast  crj'ates  a  more  warm  or  mild  temperature  than 
is  felt  hy  the  more  oljlicjue  liiys  at  tlic^  same  tinu^  shed 
on  the  eastern  land,  perhaps  it  may  assist  to  solve  the 
problem:  but  lh(>  di()'erenc(>  is  not  so  fjreat  as  to  explain 
the  cause  of  the  |.erm!inently-lixed  ice,  f"or  instance,  on 
the  east  coast  of  ( ir<'enland,  or  of  Suutliamjiton  Jslaiid, 
Oijd  iiiiuiy  other  coasts  running;  north  and  south. 

"  Tlie5?o  facts,  when   tiikeu  together,"   I'arry  snys. 


I'ARRV  ■<  roLAu  vov.\(;r.. 


107 


-liavc  Ion;;  ii^o  iinprfss.'d  inc  with  an  idra  that  tlirro 
iiiii>t  exist  ill  tilt-  Polar  region  soiiir  ;;t'iicijil  motion  of 
t!:i'  scfi  toward  the  west,  cansinu  tlic  ice  to  set  in  tiiat 
ilirt'ction  when  not  inipt'llnl  \)y  conti'ary  winds,  or  local 
liiid  occasional  currents,  nntil  it  hntts  a^a'inst  those  shores 
which  are  actiiallv  found  to  he  most  encnmhered  hv  it;"' 
and  he  ^Mves  instances  ot"  ships  heini:  set  to  the  westViird 
111  ojiposition  to  a  stronj^wind  hlowinu  tVom  that  (piarter; 
and,  liiivin^  stated  the  tacts,  he  coiicindi'S  hy  su^iiotin^, 
I'lir  tlie  considei'atioii  of  othei's,  whether  siiidi  a  tenden- 
cy (it  tile  sea  as  that  noticed  may  not  have  some  con- 
nection with  tlu?  motion  of  the  earth  on  its  axis.  Such 
an  idea,  it  is  appndiended,  is  not  tenahle.  as  it  is  <,a'iier- 
aliy  understood  that  tlie  motion  of  the  earth  carries  witii 
il  liotii  tlie  sea  and  the  atinosj)lu're. 


•I 

1 1 


'     )\ 


CHAPTER  IX. 
PARRY'S  rOLAR  VOYAliE. 

1^*•J7. 


/hr   } 


( (ir 


N'irra'/rr  of  aji  Aflvmpf  tn  rrarh  fhr  X,>rfh  I>„h'  in 
]!i-,'7.  l',y  Captain  W  .  K.  rAuuv. 
WuKN  it  is  considered  th,d  Captain  Parry,  since  tiio 
yeiir  islS,  has  made  four  voyages  into  the  Ai-ciic  Seas, 
iind  lias  passed  four  winters  in  tlu^  ice,  and  that  we  now 
liiid  hmi  airam  comiti<:  forwai-tl  in  the  year  1S-J7  (haviier 
l.ut  Just  returned  from  his  last  voya^v),  and  proposini^ 
In  liord  .\J(dville  a  |)lan  of  an  attempt  to  reach  the  Noith 
I'nle  by  means  of  traveliim  with  sled-,,.|„„i,^  over  the 
in;.-  or  throui-h  any  spaces  of  wat(>r  that  miuht  occur, 
tins  darui-r  attempt  hriims  back  to  our  recollection  the 
.xtreme  sullenti^s  of  Franklin  and  Richardson  on  their 
lirst  j.)urney  to  the  shores  of  the  l>o]ar  Sea,  which  dul 
not  deter  them  from  immediat(dy  settin-  out  a  scc(.n(l 
tune— wlien  it  is  farther  considered  tliat  ri'ankliii  is 
now  on  a  voyage  in  search  of  u  northwest  passage,  and 

/   llj;  adds  in  h  ii«r,>.  "This  plan.  ,i.«  (,ridu:illv  i)roiK.srd  Iv  ('.i.tun 

(i  -2 


\  : 


I  !  i 


mm 


\         f 


IM 


mm 


IDS 


ARCTIC   vov.vcr.s. 


•   I 


11(1(1  to  tJH'sc  tlic  iii(lffiiti'iiili!('  liihors  of  Sic  .Tiiiucs  f'liii'ko 
Koss,  Ntlio  liiis  passed  seven  or  eiiilit  Winters  of  liis  lifo 
in  the  ice,  li.ivin^  recently  iclnrned  from  u  three  years' 
ijxpedition  into  the  Anlarctic  ( )cean — when  these  se\er- 
id  cases  are  |irominently  l)rouj:ht  before  ns,  the  only  con- 
clusion to  he  arrived  at  is  tiiis,  tliat  tluMlesire  for  disliiic- 
tioii,  and  the  confident  liopn  of  nieritiiiii  it  hy  sonu'  new 
discovery,  overpower  (3very  apprehension  of  danger  or 
difliculty,  licini^  satislied  tluit  they  possess  resources 
within  themselves,  and  u  sidlicient  stock  of  moral  cour- 
iiii(^  to  strnii;«,d(!  aiiiiinst  and  to  coiKpier  both  dilticnlty  and 
danger.  'I'her(*  is  also  something  inviting  to  u  si'aman's 
mind  in  exphjrin^  new  countries,  which  is  not  the  less 
I'elished  by  tiie  access  to  them  beiii^  beset  ^vith  obsiu- 
cles  which  to  overcouK!  must  sometimes  re(jniro  e.\- 
trem(>  sutferinii,  and  even  the  sacritice  of  life. 

The  enterpris(^  about  to  be  described  had  plenty  of 
iiovidty,  dilticnlty,  and  danger  to  recommend  it ;  but 
I'arry  was  not  a  man  to  rush  lieadlonu  into  a  novel  ami 
perilous  scheme  without  makiuii  incpiiry  into  its  nature. 
( )n  consultinu  I'hipps's  voyaij,(;  of  177:5,  Im  finds  Cap- 
tain liUtwidiie  describing  thi!  ice  for  ten  oi"  tw(dv(.  leagues 
as  "■  one  continued  j)lain  of  smooth,  unbroken  ice,  bouml- 
ed  only  by  the  lujrizoii."  Mi'.  Scoresby's  account  w;n 
stron:L!,('r  still.  "  I  onc(>  saw,"  he  says,  '*  u  field  that  was 
so  free  from  either  fissure  or  liommoc,  that  1  imai^ine, 
liad  it  been  fi'ee  from  snow,  a  coach  mij^ht  iiave  been 
driven  nnuiy  l(!ai;ues  over  it  in  a  direct  line,  without  oli- 
st ruction  or  dan;.u'r."  tireat  encouram'mi'nt  these  ic- 
ports  cei'tainly  affoi'ded  for  the  {)ro<fress  of  a  sledue- 
borne  boat.  Captain  Parry,  however,  adds  a  farther 
stimulus — that  his  lio{)es  of"  success  were  i)rinci])al!y 
founded  on  the  pi'o})()sition  that  had  been  made  by  iiis 
friend  and  l)rothei--officer,  Ca))taiii  Franklin,  who  laid 
himself  volunteered  to  cordnct  it. 

Two  boats  were  speciidly  constructed  for  this  piu'- 
pose,  twenty  feet  loni;  and  seven  broad,  llat-floored,  and 
built  as  stout  as  wood  and  iron  could  make  them,  and  so 
fitted  as  to  contain  nautical  iind  otluM'  instruments,  l)a;:s 
of  l)iscuit,  pen\inican,  spare  clothing,  and  a  variety  of 
smaller  stores,  chiefly  provisions.  "A  bamboo  niasL 
nineteen  feet  long,  a  tarred  duck  sail,  answering  also  thu 


..    I 


)!'  liis  lifo 
rt'c  yt 'ills' 

L'SC  SCVfl'- 

oiily  coii- 
nv  (lisliiic- 
'OMlc  new 
diiiim'f  i>r 
resources 
Drill  fdiir- 
iiMilly  iiiiil 

Sl'lllllilll's 
t  the  less 
itll  ohstii- 
(jiiirc    cx- 

pltMity  (if 
1  it  ;  hut 
novel  iUid 
ts  iiiiturc. 

luls  ('llj)- 
vt  Ieii;i;iics 
■e,  hoiiml- 
couut  \v;h 

1   tllilt  WilS 

iniii^uie, 

liive    liecii 

illiout  oli- 

the.se  re- 

ii    sledne- 

a  lartlu'r 

)i'iiu'i]);il!y 

idc  \)\  ills 

wliu  iiiid 

tliis  pur- 
Dored,  iiud 
mil,  and  so 
leiils,  l);iij;s 
viiriely  of 
uboi)  niiisL 
:ig  also  ihu 


PARRY  ri    POLAR    VOVA(iE. 


199 


p  nposo  of  an  iiwninjj;,  a  spreiit,  one  hoat-liooU,  fonileeti 
pi. (lilies,  and  a  stecM'-oiir,  completed  each  hoat's  conijile- 
iiiciit.''  Two  officers  and  twelve  men  (ten  of  them  seii- 
iiifti  and  two  niiirines)  wcre^  selecleil  for  ciich  hoiit's 
( ifw.  Kach  hoiit,  wit'i  all  her  furnitiu-e,  tools,  insii-u- 
iiieiits,  cl(»tliin^.  imd  provisions  of  cNcry  kind,  weiuhecl 
iw').'!  j)ounds,  hein;:  -Jli-^  pounds  in  wjiii^ht  foi-  eiK-h  mim, 
exclusive!  of  lour  sledges,  weiyhiiiii  "Jfi  pounds  each. 

".My  own  iinpiirtial  conviction."  says  I'iirry,  "at  tho 
time  of  setting  out  on  this  enterprise,  coincided  (with  u 
siiiuie  exce|)lion)  with  tin;  opinion  expres>;e(l  hy  tho 
(.'ommissioners  of  LonifitucU^  in  their  memorial  to  tho 
kiiij:,  that  "the  jiroyrivss  (tf  discovery  had  not  iirri\ed 
northward,  ac(,'or(Hnij;  to  any  W(dl-iiutheiiticiited  accounts, 
so  far  iis  ^^1  of  north  latitude."'  The  exception  lu;  iil- 
liides  t(j  is  in  favor  of  Mi".  Scoreshy,  who  states  liis  liav- 
iiii:,  in  the  year  ISiKi,  j-eached  tlm  latitude  of  HI  1 -J' 
■IJ  '  l)V  actual  observation,  iind  HI  .'io'  hv  dejid  ivckon- 
iiiii.  "1  therefor(>  consider."  saj's  Parry,  "the  hitter 
piu-iillel  as,  in  all  probiihility,  the  highest  which  hjid  ever 
been  iittained  jjrior  to  the  uttiMiipt  recoided  in  tii<!  fol- 
lowing piiizes." 

When  iill  was  ready,  ('ajitiiin  Piirry  was  a])pointed 
to  tlie  commiiud  of  il.M.  slooj)  IJocIa,  with  inslrnctioiKi 
to  proc(^ed  in  lier  to  Spitzbereeii,  to  place  her  in  somo 
sate  harbor  or  cove,  and,  leiivinu;  lier  in  cliiirire  of  Lieu- 
tetiiinl  Kost<M",  to  pi'oceed  with  the  boiits  dii-ectly  to  \\io 
iiortliwiird,  nsitii;;  his  best  (mdeavors  to  reach  tin?  North 
Pole! :  to  be  careful  to  I'eturn  to  Spit/.berueii  before  lh(» 
wintei'  sets  in,  .md  early  enough  in  the  autumn  to  insuro 
tile  I  lecla  not  beiiii:  fro/en  up  and  oi)li<:ed  to  winter  there, 
lie  wiis  to  direct  Ijieuteimnt  Fos.ter  to  survc^y  tlie  north- 
ern iiiid  eiist(>rn  coiists  of  S|)it/,beri,M'n  in  liis  absenco. 
Tlie  officers  iittiiched  to  the  liechi  were  Lieutenants 
J'ostei-  and  Cio/iei',  the  former  ii  most  distiui^uished  sci- 
entific niivi'rator,  who,  iis  alroiidy  siiid,  lost  his  life  on  the 
Isthmus  of  I'iuiiimii;  the  hitter  now  (-iiptiiin  of  the '^Fer- 
I'or,  on  the  existing!;  voyage  ol"  Sir  .lolni  F'  inklin,  liaving 
been  tlit>  second  in  coimiiand  to  ("iiptain  nies  Koss  in 
the  South  Pole  Kxpedition.  Lieutetifint  .lames  lioss, 
on  the  present  voyii^e,  commanded  tlie  second  boiit. 

Ou  tlio  4th  of  AjH-ii,  ld:-'7,  thu  lleclu  weighed  anchor 


( , 


'       ( 


K 


' '  I   < 


/i  ! 


i    i 


■n^^ 


200 


AKCTIC    VOVAfiLrf. 


» 


1111(1  iiifidt'  siiil  Irimi  the  Noro,  and  on  tlu;  IDtli  iinivcfl  nt 
Hiiiiiiiit'itt'sl.  wlitii-  tlicy  wciT  tn  I'cci'ivc  on  Itoiiid  ci^lit 
r('iii<lf»M',  witliii  sii|)|)l_\  uT  nmss  {( 'i  imm i/ci  run uij'  mm) 
lor  tln'ir  piovmdfr.  llei't^  I'lirry  i;U'!iiu'd  sonio  instruc- 
tions tor  tiu'  niiinii^«'in«'nt  ottlio  deer. 

"  NutliioL'  call  1)1'  iimir  hcaiilitiil  than  tin*  tmiiiinir  of  the 
l^aplaiid  rrijidcci'.  \\  illi  it  miii|)1c  nilliir  of  sUiii  roiind  his 
neck,  ii  siiiirh'  truer  ot'thr  saiiic  iiiati-rial  iittHchcd  to  the  |»iillv 
or  sh'(li.'r,  and  |ia.>siai.'  hrtwrcn  his  h-^'s,  and  nm-  rein  ta.-»trncil 
liki'  a  lialtci'  inniid  his  iii-ck,  thi>  intt-lhu'i'nt  and  docile  aninnd 
is  perfectly  nu(hT  conunand  n|'  an  experienced  driser,  ;ind 
jiei'|iii-nis  a>tiinisliinix  jnnrneys  (>\er  tiie  Mii'le>t  simw  .  \\  hi-n 
the  rein  is  thrown  n\er  on  the  ntr->id"  of  tiie  animal,  lie  im- 
mediately s<'ts  ofl"  al  tiill  ti'ot,  and  >t<ips  sliort  the  instant  it  is 
thruwn  liack  to  tlie  near  siih'.  Shakini,'  the  rein  over  his  Irirk 
is  the  only  \vhi|)  that  is  reipiired." — I',  (i. 

'^i'lic  ipiiintity  of  eh  tin  moss,  per  day,  for  cacii  dcci', 
is  stiitod  to  bo  I'onr  ponnds,  hut  tlioy  iio  live  or  six  days 
>vitiiout  provender,  and  witlioni  snllerinii  materially. 
Snow  is  to  tlieni  the  host  kind  ol"  Wiiter,  and  iec  a  c  im- 
fortahlo  hed.  It  mny  well  he  imagined  how  vahiahio 
MH'li  iniimals  were  likely  to  he  to  file  party  ;  iind  I'lirry 
observes,  that  *'the  more  we  became  iicciistonied,  and, 
I  may  say,  attached  to  them,  the  more  paint'nl  becanm 
the  idea  of  the  net'essity  which  was  likely  to  exist,  ot" 
ultimately  havin;;;  recoiirsi'  to  tlieni  as  provisions  for  om- 
solves," 

On  the  1  Ith  of  .May  tin;  I  lecla  rounded  llakliiyt's 
1  leadland,  and  met  with  such  n  feiiieiidous  j^ale  of  wiml 
iuu\  ^nsts  from  the  hiuli  land  as  almost  to  lay  the  ship  on 
her  beam  ends,  and  oblige  tln-m  to  i'e(hice  the  canvas 
to  tho  main-topsail  ami  stormsails,  and  let  her  drive  to 
ItM'ward.  I'arry  suuucsts  it  miulit  liave  been  such  a 
storm  as  this  that  i;a\t'  the  name  ot"  this  lu-adland.  in  an 
old  Dutch  cliart.  the  Dui/nl's  Jlot/r.  l-'rom  this  tinni 
till  till'  embarcatioii  in  boats,  which  did  not  take  place  till 
cilter  "a  close  and  tedious  •  besetinent"  of  twenty-tour 
duys,'"  that  is,  from  tlie  1  1th  of  May  till  tlie  .-^ih  of  June, 
niJiy  be  looked  (»n  as  so  much  lost  time.  Indeed,  after 
l)einjL!;  rtdeased,  it  riMpiireil  a  loni^,  anxious,  and  tedious 
Boarcli  fur  a  properly  secure  harbor  in  which  to  leave  tho 
Hecla,  where  <ho  iniyht  cuiiveiiiently  bo  I'uuml  on  tlio 


v    1.     i 


PAIIUV  H    rOLAU    VOYAtiE. 


201 


ilTiVcd  lit 
iU'd  flLillt 

:.'//'  n lilt ) 
5  iiistruc- 

W'Ji     oC    tin- 

riiiuid  Ills 
I  llir  |)illk 

ilr  iiliiiiial 
•i\fi',  ;iii(l 
,.  Wh.ii 
III,  lir  iiri- 
i>t;iiit  it  is 
r  liis  Inrlv 

icll  (Iccf, 
six  (lays 

utcriiilly. 

t'  ii  t:  iiii- 
v:ilii!ilil)i 

llfi    I'illTV 

mmI,  ami, 
I  hfciuriii 

exist,  u'i 
■i  lof  oiir- 

liikliiyt's 
of  wind 

slii|)  oil 
'  canvas 
di'ivt'  to 

such  a 
id.  in  an 
lis  tiini'i 
|)laci'  till 
iity-t'oiir 
ol"  .Iniif, 
cd,  after 

tedious 
ea\i^  tlio 
I   on   tlio 


retiu'ii   of  tli(^  boats  fidiii  the  northward.      Sii(di  a  spot 
was  at  i('n;:th  disco\ered. 

"  (  )ii  the  e\e!iinir  <•!  the  1-th  of  .liuie.  \vhile  standin<; 
PI  for  the  liiuh  land  to  the  eastward  ot'  \  orle:;eii  lloek, 
which,  with  due  attention  to  the  land,  may  he  approach- 
ed with  salety,  we  perceivi-d  from  the  crow's-nest  what 
iiupeared  a  low  point.  |)o>silily  aljordaii;  some  sludter  for 
liie  ship,  and  which  seemed  to  an>wer  to  an  iiith'iitatioit 
I'f  the  coast  laid  down  in  an  old  |)n<ch  chart,  and  there 
called  Tn  iin  iilmrn  lin ij  ;"  and  a  line  sheltered  hay  they 
tnnnd  it:  they  warped  in  the  llecia  with  the  iireatest, 
;ilacrity,  ami  dropped  ancdior  in  Uii-h/  Cnri  in  thirteen 
f;ilhoins. 

The  neii.dil)orliood  of  this  hay.  like  most  of  tlie  nortli- 
cin  chores- ot'  Spit/heruen,  appeared  to  have  been  miadi 
M>ited  hy  tlu!  I)iit(di  at  a  very  early  period,  ol'  w  hieh  cir- 
(■  istiince  records  were  furnished  at  almost  (nery  spot, 
whei'e  the  i)artv  landed,  hv  the  numerous  iiraves  they 
met  with.  Thirty  of  the>e  were  fiaiml  on  a  p(»int  of 
liiid  on  the  north  side  of  the  hay.  The  hotlies  had  been 
umerally  (leposite(l  in  oblonu  wooden  cot'l'iiis.  not  burii-il, 
lint  merely  covered  with  larye  stones;  a  board  near  the 
bead  records  the  name  of  the  deceased,  the  ship,  her 
inmniander.  and  her  date  ;  one  was  so  far  hack  as  l(i!n). 
I'arry  is  riuht  in  supposing:  the  name  of  the  bay  to  \ni 
fidin  In  iir(  II,  to  lanu-nt,  on  ai'count  of  tlie  mortality  that 
liiis  occuri'ed  there. 

llavinj;  now  made  liis  linal  arrantiements,  and  jiiven 
proper  dii'ections  to  Lieutenants  Koster  and  Cro/.ier, 
( 'aptain  I'arry  Itd't  tlie  ship  with  his  two  boats,  whicdi  he 
liiimed  the  Knterprisi^  and  the  Kndeavor.  Mi".  ISeverley 
bein;^  attached  to  his  own.  and  liieiitenaiit  Koss.  accom- 
panie(|  by  Mr.  IJird.  in  the  other.  As  the  season  had  so 
far  advaiKM'd.  lie  took  only  seventy-one  days'  j)rovisions  ; 
:iiiil  as  it  appeared  liiiihly  improbable,  from  what  had 
liceii  seen  of  the  very  riiimed  nature  of  the  ice  they 
W(Hild  first  liave  to  encounter,  that  "  either  the  reindeer, 
tile  snow-shoes,  or  tlie  wheels  would  prove  of  any  ser- 
vice for  sotne  tinuf  to  come,  I  iiavi'  up  the  idea  ot  takiii!^ 
tliem.  We,  liowever.  constructed  out  of  the  snow- 
sliiu's  four  exctdlent  sUmI^cs  for  ilraimini;  a  |)art  ul"  i»ur 
biigguijo  over  the  ice,  which  proved  of  invaluable  serN  icu 


«  t       ! 


is  ■' 


20t> 


ARCTIC  V()V.\(;i:rf, 


,  I 


to  ns,  wliild  tliP  rest  (ifflH'  tliinys  just  moiitiom'il  would 
((Illy  liiivr  ht'i'ii  nil  riiciiiijIdiiiH'f." 

W'lial  lirciiiiu'  <»l' those  iiilfrfstiiii:  lilll«*  crt-iil  hits,  tho 
»'ii;lit  r»'iii(|('('r,  wliicli  were  spoken  (»l"  with  u  kiiiil  of  nl- 
I'cctioMiito  i'«*uui'(|,  wliilc  it  was  liintrd  that  the  iiainliil 
iifcrssity  iniyht  arise  olliaviiiif  recoiiise  to  them  as  pru- 
visioii,  is  not  stated.  It  was  soon  evident,  indeed,  rnnn 
tht.'  appearance  of  the  ice,  that  they  could  not  he  ol'ihe 
slightest  use,  hut  a  yreat  encnnihiance  in  the  hoiits:  ot" 
their  ultiinati^  l'at<^  no  mention  is  made  in  tli(>  nai'iative. 

Lieutenant  Ci'ozier  accoinpaniefj  the  hoats  as  tarns 
W'aldeii  Island,  where  a  deposit  ol"  provisions  was  lel'i, 
whence  they  proceeded  to  Little  Talile  Island  to  exam- 
ine and  rivsecure  tlie  provisions  that  had  heen  lell  there 
l<)i'  their  I'c^turn.  The  prosp»M't  to  the  northward  was 
ravoral)l(<  enouyh,  only  a  small  (jiianlity  of  loose  ice  he- 
iiiif  in  sijfjit,  the  w<'athei'  calm  and  clear,  with  the  sea  as 
smooth  as  a  mirror;  th.-s  "we  set  off  without  delay,  at 
lialf  past  t<Mi,  takinij;  our  final  leav(5  of  the  Spitzher^en 
shor<'S.  as  we  lioped,  for  at  least  two  months.  The  wal- 
ruses iiere  were  very  nmnei'ous,  lyin;j;  in  luM'ds  upon  the 
ice,  and  plnn^fiiiif  into  the  water  to  follow  us  as  we  pass- 
e(|.  M'he  sound  tiiey  uttei"  is  somethinji  hetween  hellow- 
iiii;  and  vei-y  loud  siiortiiii;,  which,  together  with  their 
iirim,  lasirded  countenances,  and  loiiij  tusks,  make  them 
appear,  as  indeed  the;}'  are,  rather  formidiiblu  enemies 
to  contend  with. 

''  Sleeriiiji  dui^  nortli,  wo  made  pood  proirress,  our  lat- 
itude, by  the  sun's  meridian  altitude  at  midnipht,  heinp 
^{) ^  ol'  ].'>".  At  noon  the  n«»xt  diiy,  Uitvv  n  run  of  two 
hours  in  open  water,  with  a  wt^sterly  wind,  wr.  werc^ 
stopped  hy  close  ice,  and  ohliiied  to  haul  the  boats  upon 
a  small  llotvjjiece,  the  latitude  by  observation  beinj^  f^P 

As  tills  voyaso  is  of  so  bold  and  (lai'inp  a  character,  and 
in  all  its  circumstances  so  novel  and  perfectly  unicpie,  no 
description  of  it,  except  in  tlu;  wcjrds  of  the  conmiander 
of  the  Knterprise  hinis<df,  can  convey  to  the  reader  an 
ade(piate  idea  of  the  arrani:;ements  and  the  manaiiement 
of  it.  The  usual  mode  pursujMl  by  this  <iallant  party  on 
their  adventurous  voyayc^  is  thus  described  :  \ 

"  Oiu'  plan  of  traveling  being  nearly  the  same  througli(jut 


r  \Ki  V  H  ror.AR  vov  \(;i:. 


;;.»03 


il  Woiilil 

irt'S.  tlin 

mI  mI'  iil- 

piiinriil 

I  lis  |)lll- 

'<l,  tVoia 
ic  of  tli*^ 
mis  :  (iT 
rnitivf. 
IS  tiir  lis 
^viis  Ict'l, 

()  l^Xlllll- 
•ft  tllcrn 
iinl  WHS 
•  ice  lic- 
l(>  sen  MS 
ilcliiy,  ill 

riic  \v!.i- 

iipoii  tlio 
we  piiss- 

II  l)»'ll()\V- 

ith  llifir 
ikf  tlu'iii 

IMR'lllit'S 

;,  our  hit- 
it.  l>t'iii<^ 
II  of  two 

Its  iipoii 

LCter,  and 
iiiijiic,  no 
niiiiiiuli'r 
(>iul«'r  iui 
iiiii«Miu'nt 
party  on 


irouglnjut 


Uiis  t'xcnrsioii.  jiftrr  wi-  liisl  •■iifrml  ii|i(iii  tlii-  ]rr,  T  iii;iv  ;it 
i(ll<T  'j\\r  Miiiif  III  rii'iiit  ril'diii*  ii-u;il  irnxli'  ot  pliK  i'(  iliiiL.'.  It 
wiiH  iiiv  iiilfiitiiiii  til  tiiisrl  wlmlly  iit  iiiL'lil,  nrid  to  lot  liy 
(1,'iv,  llifi'f  liciiiir.  fit'niiii->r,  (•(iii-.t;iiit  (l.'iyliL'lif  ill  tln'M-  |•|•L'i<'ll.^ 
(lillilil,'  tlif  silimmT  srii-iiiM.  'Tlic  iiil\:ilitiii.'i-«  nt  llii^.  pliii, 
wliiili  WHS  (M(;i-«i(iii,illy  tlri';iiiL'«'il  l»V  circiiliistiilii-cs.  rnii^i-tnl, 
t'n-l,  ill  "iiii"  JiMiidini.'  tin-  iiitni.sr  ami  n|iprc.ssiv('  ^'hiif  liniii 
till'  snow  tliiiiiiL'  till-  liiiif  III'  iIh'  sun's  i,'n';itr--l  nltitiuji'.  -^u  ;iH 
to  pi-('V*>iit,  ill  r^Miiif  ili';.'r<T,  till-  piiiiitii!  iiitlaiiini.'itinii  in  tliti 
fV.'S  ciillt'd  '  Hiiow-lilimiiH'ss,'  wliidi  is  coiiiiiiuii  in  ail  snnwy 
cuiiiitrii'S.  Wf  alsii  tliiis  ciiinyril  i.'i"<'ati-r  wariiitli  dnriiiL,'  tliu 
liiiiiis  (if  rest,  and  liad  a  lirtti-r  ciiaiKr  *)l  drying.'  mir  rlullirs ; 
ln'»idrs  wliicli.  nil  small  advantaL't'  was  dcrivi'd  from  tin-  >iiii\v 
iiriii'.:  liardiM"  at  iiijlit  ihr  travrliiiL'.  'I'lif  rmlv  disad%rintai.'(> 
(it'tliis  plan  was,  that  tlic  fuirs  wfrc  sonirwliat  mmr  trnpirnt 
and  more  thick  liy  iiiLdit  than  l»y  day,  tliiiiii.'li  even  in  this  ro- 
>-|irct  tliciT  was  Irss  ditli'i't'iicc  than  iiii^'lit  liavr  lirni  >iip- 
jiiisrd,  thf  tciiipcratnn'  diiriiiLr  tin-  twriity-timr  hours  iiiidfr- 
uiiiiii.'  I»iit  little  variation.  This  travclini.'  liy  iiiL'lit  and  slct-p- 
iiiLT  liy  diiv  so  ciiiniili'trly  iiivcrtfd  tin'  natural  urdcr  of  thing's, 
that  it  was  diiliiult  to  pfisnado  oiirsclvrs  nf  the  roality.  |]vcu 
llii-  oHiccrs  and  niyscit',  who  wcro  all  fnriii>hi'd  with  fiockct 
clintiioiiirtcrs,  could  not  always  licar  in  mind  at  what  part  of 
till"  twfiitv-foiir  hours  we  had  arrived  ;  and  thcrr  wm-  sev- 
eral of  the  men  who  declared,  and  I  lielieve  trnlv,  that  they 
never  knew  iiiirht  from  day  dnrinir  the  whole  exciirsidii." 

••  When  we  I'ose  in  the  eveniiii:,  we  commenced  our  day 
Iiv  |)ravi'rs,  after  which  we  took  otl"  our  fur  sleepintr-dres,-es, 
and  put  on  those  liir  traveling';  the  fnrnier  lieimr  made  of 
lainlet,  lined  with  racoon  skin,  and  the  latter  nf  stmnir  hlno 
lidx-cloth.  We  made  a  ])oiiit  of  always  puttiiii,'  mi  the  sanio 
stockiiiL's  and  lioots  for  travelinir  in,  whether  they  had  dried 
(hirimr  the  day  or  not  ;  and  1  helievo  it  was  only  in  li\e  or 
six  instances,  at  tlie  most,  that  they  were  not  either  still  wet 
111'  hard  ii'o/.en.  'i'liis.  indeed,  was  of  no  conseipience  hi  nuikI 
the  discomfort  of  first  ])uttiiiL'  them  on  in  this  state,  as  they 
were  sure  to  be  thoroni:hly  wet  in  a  ipiarter  of  an  hdiir  after 
cdinmenciiiLT  our  journey,  while,  on  the  other  haiiil,  it  was 
of  vital  iiii[)ortaiice  to  keep  diy  thiuLfs  for  sleejiinu  in.     I'.eing 

■  "  {fail  w  •  Huccccdi'fl  in  nucliin.:  the  liiL'licr  hiHtmlrH,  ^\ill■n'  tin; 
cliiiiiLri'  (if  till'  -an'-  iiltitiiili'  dui'liiir  thr  twiiity-l'oiir  hours  is  .-till  Irss  prr- 
rcjilililc,  it  Wdiilii  liavi'  licfii  i  .-.-ciitiiilly  iii'ci'ssary  to  ]i(),-,-i'-s  fiir  ('crtaiii 
iiicaii-  ot'  knowing'  this,  siiicf  an  error  of  twclvi-  hours  of  tinir  would 
have  carrii'l  us,  win  n  wr  intcndi'd  to  rrturii.  on  a  iiuriiliaii  o|i|io-iri'  to, 
or  1~(1'  fi-oMi,  the  riu'lit  one.  'I'd  oliviati'  the  ini-^siliihly  of  this,  wc  hail 
Miiui'  chroiioiiiiti  r-,  coii-tructi'd  by  Mi'ssr-.  l'arl<iti.-oii  and  I'rod-hain, 
ol'  \\hich  till'  hour-hand  niadi-  only  one  rrvolutioii  in  thu  day,  thu  tWiU- 
tyl'uur  huurd  bciiu'  luiirkrd  ruund  the  diuliilutc.'' 


'  / 


i  I 


!   i 


1  i 


1       \ 


^- 


201 


AIUTHJ   voYA(;i:s. 


'  i'iL.'Lr<'(l'  iiir  tnivclitiL',  we  lnciikliistrd  ii|)t)ii  u;inn  cncoa  nuil 
l)i.-(iiil,  Mini  ntttT  stdwiiii,'  llic  tliiiiirs  in  llic  Imals  mid  (Hi  iIk; 
slr(it.'t'S,  so  ;is  ti)  srciirc  llit'iii,  its  iimcli  as  |)ii>.-ili|c,  t'loiii  \scl, 
uf  si'l  i>\\'  (111  u\u-  day's  Joiinifv,  and  usually  Iravclrd  t'loni 
11\(^  til  live  and  if.  lialt  lidurs,  then  stnji|ifd  an  Imur  tn  dine, 
and  ML'iiiu  traveled  liiur,  live,  (u-  even  six  lidurs,  accdrdini,'  to 
cii'ciimslances.  Al'ler  this  wr  lialtcd  tor  the  niu'lit,  as  \vt; 
tailed  it,  tlioiii:h  it  was  usually  early  in  the  niorniim.  seleet- 
iim  tilt."  lariiest  sui'liice  (if  ici;  we  lia|i|)ened  to  ho  near  tor 
hauling'  the  hoats  on,  in  order  to  avoid  the  danner  of  it>  lireak- 
iiiLr  u|i  by  coniinir  in  eoiitact  with  other  masses,  and  also  to 
jireveiit  dril't  as  much  as  nossihle.  The  ixiats  were  placed 
close  aloiiL'side  each  other,  with  their  sterns  to  the  \viud,  the 
Miow  or  wet  cleared  out  ot  tli(;i.i.  and  the  sails,  su|i|i  irted  \>v 
llie  hamlioo  masts  iind  tlirei*  paddles,  placed  oNcr  them  as 
awninizs,  an  entraiici^ieinf,'  left  at  the  liow.  livery  man  then 
imniedialely  put  on  diy  stockinirs  and  fur  liools,  after  whicli 
we  set  alKiiit  tli(^  necessary  repairs  ot  hoats,  sUnliies,  or 
clothes;  and,  after  servini^  tin.'  provision.^  for  the  siuceedin:,' 
day,  we  went  to  supper.  Most  of  the  otlicers  and  men  then 
smoked  their  pipes,  which  served  to  dry  the  hoats  and  awii- 


in 


L's  very  much,  and  usually  raised  thi'  temi)era1ure  ot  ( 


lur 


loiL'ini^s  10  or  1')  .  'f  his  part  of  tlie  tweiitv-t'our  lioni's  wa.» 
often  a  time,  and  the  oiilv  one,  of  real  eiijo\'meiit  to  us;  ilir 
men  told  their  stories,  and  '  lliuudit  idl  their  battles  o'er  ai:aiii,' 
and  the  labors  of  the  day.  unsuccessful  as  they  loo  (jtten  were, 
were  fori:otteii.  A  rei,'ular  watch  was  s(,'t  duriiiir  our  restiiii;- 
time,  to  look  out  for  bears,  or  for  the  ice  breakimr  up  round 
us,  as  well  as  to  attend  to  the  dryini:  of  the  clothes,  each 
man  alternately  takiiiu'  this  diitv  tor  one  hour.  We  then  con- 
cluded our  day  with  pravers.  and  haviu,::  put  on  our  fur  dress 
es.  lay  down  to  sleep  with  ;i  (h'l/ree  of  comtort  which  per- 
liaps  few  pers(»ns  would  iinai:ine  |iossible  under  such  circum- 
stances ;  our  clii«>f  inconvenience  lieiim.  tliat  we  were  some- 
what pinched  for  room,  and  tlieretbr(>  obli^'ed  to  stow  rather 
closer  than  was  (piite  aL'reeable.  The  te  aperatiire.  while 
we  sle[>l,  was  u>uidly  from  ',](>  to  1.")-,  accordini:  to  the  state 
of  the  externiil  atmosphere;  but  on  one  or  l\\(i  occasions,  in 
calm  iwtd  warm  weather,  it  njse  as  hii,di  as  fiO  to  (i(i  ,  obli- 
^'im:  us  to  thi'ow  otV  a  jiart  of  our  hir  dress.  After  wo  had 
slept  seven  hours,  the  man  a]i]ioiii1ed  to  boil  the  cocoa  i"ous( 
it 


I 

us.  wnen  it  was  I'lady,  liy  tlie  soim,!  ot  a  liuirle,  wtieu  wo 
commenced  our  day  in  the  manner  betore  di'scribed. 

•'Our  allowauc'.'  of  pruvisions  tor  each  man  per  day  was 
us  follows : 

Biscuit         .  .  .         .10  ounces. 

remmlcan  .  .  .         .     U        " 


«  i 


IWRRY  S    rOLAR    VOYAGE. 


205 


11'' 


Swi'ctciicd  C'oco.'i  I'owdi-r  .      1   oi.ucc  to  make  one  i)ijit. 

Iiiini  .  .  .         .      I  irill. 

'I'ohacco       .  .  .  .      :}  ounces  per  week. 

Our  furl  consisted  eiiliicly  of  sjiirits  of  wine,  of  wliicli  rwo 
pints  loniied  our  daily  alloweiice,  the  cocoa  heiii:,'  cooked  in 
Jill  iron  boiler,  over  a  shallow  ii-on  lamp,  with  seven  wicks. 
\\  c  ij>ually  found  one  pint  of  the  spirit.- of  wine  sullicient  for 
ji-rpariiiLT  our  Itreakfast,  that  is.  tlir  heatini:  i2!l  pints  of  water, 
tlioiii,'li  it  always  commenced  from  the  temperature  of  ;{•,'. 
If  tlie  weatlier  was  calm  and  fair,  this  (piantitv  of  fu(d  hrouirht 
it  to  tiie  hoiliiiir  point  in  aliout  an  hour  and  a  (|uarter,  luit, 
more  i:enerally  the  wicks  l)e;.'an  to  ^'o  out  licfore  it  had 
rc.iched  'JDO  .  This,  iiowever,  mad"  a  very  comtiirtahle  meal 
til  ptM-sons  situated  as  we  were.  Such,  with  verv  little  vari- 
ation, was  our  re^'ular  routine  durim:  the  whole  ot'  this  ex- 
cursion."— 1'.  o.j-.jI*. 

Tlio  ))iii-fy  iinist  liave  heeii  iirievoiisly  disiippoiiif  ed  on 
riiidit)<j  the  state  of  tile  ice  wholly  lln^  revcise  of  what  it 
had  been  fcpi't'sented  Ixdurc  sc^ttiiii,^  out.  Itist<'ad  of  he- 
in::  ;i  fine,  smooth  level  plain,  "over  which  )i  coach  mij^ht 
liiive  been  driven  many  leaiines  ;"*  insteiid  of  compact 
floes,  it  consisted  entirely  of  smtdl.  loose,  jnid  nii^r^ed 
iiMisses.  oblii^ini;  them  "ttt  make  three  joiirm-vs.  and 
souM'times  four,  with  the  Ixjats  iind  l)aL'i:iiL.^e.  and  to  lanch 
several  times  across  ntirrow  pools  of"  water.*'  And  Net 
llie  descriptions  },Mven  by  (';tj)fain  l^ntA\idt:e  uiid  S\v. 
ScfU'esby  m!;j,ht  be  (piite  correct  at  the  time,  though  no\v 
totally  different,  the  condilicni  of  tiie  ice  \arvini:  friun 
year  to  year.  Ouo  day,  wo  iiro  told,  during  heavy  rtiin, 
they  advanced  but  half  a  mile  in  four  hours.  At  imofh- 
ef  time,  in  thick  weather,  tln>  ice  was  so  mmdi  in  mo- 
tion as  to  miike  it  daiiiierons  to  cross  with  loaded  boats, 
the  masses  bein^^  so  small.  Another  day  they  landed  on 
a  small  floe,  bnt  "  it  proved  so  riiirixed  that  we  wei-e 
nhlitred  to  miik(>  fhre(»  imd  s(Miietimes  lonr  jotn-nevs  with 
the  botits  iind  provisions,  iind  this  by  a  very  ciirnitoiis 
J'oiile,  so  that  tlie  road  by  which  we  madi"  a  mile  ol' 
noithin<:  was  fi  lull  mile  iuid  a  half  in  length,  and  over 
ihi-  we  had  to  travel  at  least  live,  and  soinetinu's  seven 
times."  In  short,  from  the  •J.')th.  the  day  they  started,  to 
the  .Soth,  it  W'iis  found,  by  an  observation  lit  midniyht, 
that  they  lijid  rpiiched  ii(»"hiuhir  tliaii  81°  23',  "  so  thut 


ii 


20G 


ARCTIC    V0YAGE3. 


f  J 


M 


1} 


wo  liart  mjide  only  oijiht  iniN's  of  northing  siiicn  our  last 
ohsci'Viition  iit  noon  on  tin;  •J.')tli."' 

Cnptain  I'jiiTy  observes,  that  iis  thf;  teniper.itnre  liy 
iiiglit  and  day  was  liable  to  little  variation,  soini^  incon- 
venience Avas  exjXM'ienced  with  re<:ard  to  noticing  tin- 
tini(!.  To  obviate  any  mistake  which  at  or  near  the 
J*ole  might  lead  them,  by  taking  the  wrong  twelve 
Jjours,  to  a  mei'idian  l-^O^  from  the  intended  one,  the\ 
had  some  chi'onometers  ot"  whicl;  the  hour-hai.ul  minlc 
only  one  icvolntion  in  the  day,  the  twenty-lour  h()ur> 
l)einii  marked  round  the  dial-})lato.      (See  I'age  '2{)'.j  and 


iS'ot( 


e  on  this  sui)|e( 


■^-) 


The  1st  oiMulv  brouirht  them  to  no  bettor 


ICO 


a  tew 


small  does  occui'red,  with  pools  ol"  water  between  them, 
the  ic»;  less  broken  up,  and  sometimes  tolei'al)ly  level  : 
but  six  to  v'ighteen  inches  ot"  soft  snow  lying  on  the  sur- 
lace  made  tht^  travelling  very  t'atiguing.  and  obliged  tbe 
])arty  to  ui.dei'go  at  least  two,  and  somt^times  three,  jour- 
neys with  theii"  loads.  On  the  boats  Idndlna:  on  a  lloe- 
pic^ce,  l*ai'iy  and  Koss  generally  walked  on  aiiead  to 
select  the  easiest  road  tor  the  boats  to  follow  :  the 
sledges  canu'  alter  them,  by  which  the  snow  was  trod- 
den down,  and  nnide  easier'  tor  thc^  boats.  What  follows 
is  too  interesting  to  b(^  omitted. 

"  As  SDOU  MS  we  arriv<'(l  at  the  otlier  i^\\i\.  of  tlie  lloo,  or 
came  to  aiiv  ditlicult  [ilace,  \vc  mounted  one  of  tlie  lushest 
lionunocs  of  ice  mar  at  hand  (many  of  wliicli  were  fiipni 
llfteen  to  twenty-live  feet  above  the  sea),  in  orcU-r  to  obtain  a 
hetter  view  around  us;  and  nofliinir  could  well  exceed  the 
dreariness  wliicli  such  a  view  ])resente(l.  The  eye  wearied 
itself  in  vain  to  lind  an  ol)ieft  but  ice  and  sky  to  I'est  upoii  ; 
and  even  the  latter  was  often  hidden  from  our  view  hy  the 
dense  and  dismal  li)gs  which  so  f,'enerally  prevailed.  For 
want  of  variety,  the  most  trilling  circumstance  engaged  a  more 
than  ordinary  share  of  our  attention;  ii  pussing  gull,  a  mass 
of  ice  of  unusual  form,  hecani(>  objects  which  oiu"  situation 
anil  circumstances  magnified  into  ridiculoas  importance';  and 
we  have  sinci-  often  sniih'd  to  remember  the  eager  interest, 
with  which  we  reirai'<le(|  many  iiisigniiicant  occurrences,  it 
may  well  he  iniaLrined,  then,  bow  cheering  it  \>as  tt)  tiu'u 
from  this  scene  of  inanimate  desolation  to  our  two  litde  boats 
in  till'  distance,  to  see  the  moviu',:  tiLTures  of  oiu'  men  winding 
with  their  sledi^'cs  amoiiix  the  lionunocs.  and  to  hear  oncti 
ijiorc  the  sound  of  human  voices  breaking  the  stilhiess  ot  this 


I       a 


1 


PARRY  3   POLAR    VOYAGE. 


207 


icy  wililciTK-ss.  In  snino  cnsos  Lioutcnant  Ross  and  mvsclf 
lunk  s('|)!ir;it('  routes  to  tiy  the  ltoiiikI,  which  Ivt-pt  us  ahuost 
CDiitinually  tiouiKh-riug  aiuoni,'  do('|)  snow  mid  water.  'J'iin 
sl('<lires  haviiiij  heeii  !)r()uj,'ht  u;^)  as  tiir  as  we  had  exphued, 
we  nil  went  hack  lor  tlie  hoats;  each  hoat's  crew,  when  tho 
ri.ad  was  tolerahle,  drairtjinLr  their  own,  and  the  othcers  la- 
in/ring (Minally  hiird  witii  the  men.  It  was  thus  we  i)ro(eeded 
tiir  Jiiiie  miles  out  (»!'  every  ten  that  we  traveli-d  over  ice.  t'nr 
it  was  very  rai-ely  indeed  that  we  met  with  a  sui-face  sulfi- 
ciently  levtd  and  hiu'd  to  drair  all  our  loads  ;it  one  join-nev, 
and  in  a  great  many  instaui'es  duriii^r  the  first  fortnight  wt; 
Irid  to  make  tliree  journeys  with  the  boats  and  haui-'MU'e  ; 
that  is,  to  travtM-se  the  same  road  live  times  over." — I'.  07,  li;>. 

When  they  liad  tlio  good  fortiiiu!  to  icacli  a  small  Hoc, 
tli(^  snow  on  its  siirlacc  was  so  decj,.  and  tlie  pools  of 
waf(M-  so  friMpieiit,  that  after  a  lahorioiis  day's  work  the 
distance  traversed  was  perha|)s  two  miles,  and  riiiely 
exceeded  five.  Tlw  snow,  nn)reovei-,  was  so  soft  as  to 
take  them  u[)  to  the  kiu'e  at  almost  every  other  stt^p, 
juid  fj-e(jiiently  still  d(!eper,  so  that  they  were  sometinu'S 
live  minntcs  tof^efher  in  moving  a  singh^  empty  boat 
with  all  their  miited  strength.  The  rain  ])n)dncod  a 
greiiter  effect  on  the  snow  than  the  snn.  Party  savs 
lliid  Koss  jind  himself,  in  their  pioneering  dnty,  were 
so  frequently  beset,  that  sometimes,  after  trying  in  vain 
to  extriciitc^  tlieir  legs,  they  were  obliged  to  sit  down  to 
rest  themselves;  and  the  men,  in  di-agging  the  sledges, 
were  often  under  the  necessity  of  cniwliiig  on  tdl  fours 
to  make  any  progress  tit  all.  In  one  })lace  they  were 
more  than  two  hours  in  pi-oceeding  one  hundred  and 
lifty  yards.  Vet  the  men  worked  with  cheerfidness 
and  good  will,  hoping  to  reacii  tin;  sj)ot  (though  they 
had  long  passed  it)  where  Captain  Lntwidge  found 
'■one  contiimed  |)l;dn  of  smooth,  unbroken  ice,  bounded 
only  l)V  the  liorizon.'' 

One  day  of  great  fjitigne,  after  sto|)ping  to  empty 
their  boots  and  wring  their  stockings,  is  thus  spoken  of  : 

"  We  halted  for  tlie  night  at  half  an  hour  li'-fore  midnight, 
the  iXMiple  being  almost  exhausted  with  a  laliorious  day's 
woi'k,  and  our  distance  made  good  to  tlie  northward  not  ex- 
ceeding two  miles  and  a  (juarte!-.  We  allowed  ourselves  this 
iiiLrht  a  iiot  supper,  consisting  of  a  ))iiil  of  sou])  per  man.  maiie 
ol  an  ounce  of  penauicuu  each,  and  eii-dit  or  ten  birdrf  which 


!  - 


1} 


mm. 


208 


ARCTIC    VOYAGES. 


h 


\\ 


<■  li;i(l  killed  ill  tin-  ciiiirsc  fiflln-  l;ist  week;  ami  tliis  w 


I-;  ;i 

•  •  (llllv 
;i(l    s<M'ii   III   tlic  ((iiirsc  (il  tlic  il.iv  ;i   tew 


luxury  wiiicli  |>ri-s(m>  thus  sitiiMtfd  could  pi-rliiips  iiloii 
;i|i|iicci;itc.      \\ 

very  siiml 


(IdM'kic.  !i    loitiii,  u  iiKillniiiick,  and   two  or  tlirc 
il>."— I'.  70. 


Oil  the  1-,'tli  (itMiily  tlioy  luid  reached  tlie  latitude  of 
HJ^^  M'  -J.s"  :  a  hriiTiaiit  duv  and  clear  skv  overhead,  ••jni 
nlisoliite  luxiii'v  to  us."  Tlie  pools  and  strinims  on  1 1n- 
dites increased,  and  caused  the  men  to  make  a  veiy  cic- 
ciiitons  routt;.  '•  It'aiiy  thiiijj;  could  haxc  compensated  for 
the  d(day  theses  occasioned  ns,  it  woidd  have  heeii  the 
heautiliil  hlue  color  peculiar  to  these  supt>r-i:Iacial  lakes. 
^vhi(dl  is  certainly  one  ol"  the  most  pleasiiiij;  tints  in  iiii- 
ftire."  The  next  day  they  were  i.i  latitude  ri-^-  17'  In  ; 
no  holtom  with  )(•()  tathoms  ol"  line  ;  tem|)eratui-e  of 
water  hroui^dit,  up,  .')] 


Ol  surlaci!  water, 


•{•)' 


ice 


iltl 


a;  air, 


( )n  this  diiv  we  sa 


\v 


ol  the 
,"  sa\-s 


I'arry,  "duiiiiii  this  last  journey,  a  mollemuck,  iitid  u 
second  Koss  mill;  and  a  couple  ol"  smtiU  jVn  s  (to  us  an 
event  ol"  ridiculous  importance)  were  ronii;'  upon  the 
ice,"  hut  whether  living  or  dead  is  not  recorded. 

No  improvement  on  ihe  lUli,  alter  five  liours'  im- 
ceasinjj;  lahor  ;  tlu^  progress  was  a  mile  and  .;  halt'  duo 
north.  tlioii;i;h  from  three  to  four  miles  had  heeii  trav- 
ersed, and  ten  at  least  walked,  havinii;  made  three  jour- 
neys a  Ljreat  part  v'i  llie  way,  lauched  and  hauK-d  up 
the  hoals  foui"  times,  and  dra^zi:!;'''!  tliom  over  tweiity-five 
separate  pieces  of  ice  ;  no  imj)rovemeiit  in  the  tiaveling. 
'•After  more  than  (deven  hours  of  actual  lahor  on  the 
l-'th,  reipiirinji"  for  tlie  most  part  our  whole  streiiy;tli  to 
Ave  had  traveled  over  a  sj)ace  not  exceediiu 


he  e\ei 


led. 


four  miles,  of  \\  liich  (Uily  two  were  made:  i^ood."  IJiil 
this  suail-like  progress  was  not  tlu^  worst  that  befeil 
them  ;  it  was  vei'y  small,  hut  still  it  iras  progress.  Now, 
liowe\er,  the  LMlth  of  .Inly,  Fari'V  says. 


Wc  halted    at  7   A.M. 


Iiaviii^'  I IV  our  reckoiuuir  accoin- 


pli>lie(|   .--ix    iiiiles  ,'111(1  a  Halt   111  a 


N.X.W.  d 


iicctioii.  the 


(II- 


laiice  tra\ersed  lieiiii:  ten  miles  and  a  halt'.  It  jiiav  iherefiire 
lie  iiiiairiiied  |i(i\\  irreal  xvas  oiir  Hnirtificatiiin  in  liiuiiii::  that 
<iiii'  lalitiide  hy  dliseiN  alieu  at  iinen  was  oiilv  H-J  'MV  .")•,'", 
lieiim  less  than  ti>'i'  miles  to  the  northward  (if  (Hir  jilace  at 
imoii  on  the  17ih,siiice  wliicli  time  we  Jjad  certainly  traveled 
twelve  m  thai  dircclioi;,"' — 1'.  d\. 


PAIIRV  d    POLAR    VOYAGE. 


209 


liiflor  tlioso  (lisconrnLMiiii  riiriuiisffuu-cs.  it  was  (|,..>m- 

0(1   pni.NMlt    to   llVoi.l    IMilkitlir  fhf,    tiler    known    t..    the    1,1. '11  • 

at  the  sjnilo  tiiiip,  a  v.<ry  scriuus  ralaitiitv  was  narrowly 
fsciiiHMl:  tlu'  (lo(.  on  wliicli  tli.'v  wcro  brok.'  under  ilio 
wnnhf,  ol  tlu!  hoats  and  ,sled^,.>.  and  tli,>  htier  wcrn 
nearly  lost  (hn.ii,-li  tlu-  ire  :  sonu^  of  tlio  uwn,  too 
went  t}n-oun;li,  hut  worn  ,,rovid(MiIiallv  saved.  On  tliJ 
'JJ.i.  howev.T,  tliH  ic.  liad  <-onsid,.rahlv  inipn.Vfd  ;  tlio 
fiof's  h,.rain.>  lar-n  and  toleraMv  levek  aiiij  some  .mkuI 
liines  ot  walor  occurring,  it  was  calculated  fliey  had 
Hiado  l,etW(!en  ton  and  eleven  miles,  and  traverM>,l  a 
distance  ot  about  stnenteen.  alter  uum^  than  tw.dvo 
li..ur.s'  actufil  traveling,  by  which  tho  people  were  ex- 
tremely fatigued  ;  -  but  whil.^  the  work,"  says  Parry 
-.seemed  to  bo  repaid  by  any  tiling  lik.;  prouMvss,  the 
UK'ii  labored  witli  groat  chiM-rfulness  to  the  utmost  of 
fiieir  streiigfji."  Jt  may  readily  be  imaiiined  that  tho 
.!.i|.roveniont  of  tile  ico,  and  with  it  the  increased  pro-. 
less,  gave  much  satisfaction,  thou-h  the  encounudncr 
prospect  was  but  of  short  duration.  "    *' 

."  I"  I'n.porti.Mi,  then,  to  the  hopes  W(;  had  l)e-un  to  enf.-r- 
t.iiii,  was  our  disappoiiitiueul  la  fiudiii-  at  iiora  lliat  we  wero 
m  latitude  H-J-  4^  '>",  or  not  (piite  fbur  miies  to  the  north- 
wanl  ot  yesterday's  observation,  instead  of  tin-  ten  or  eleven 
winch  we  had  tmv.de.l!  Howt-ver,  wo  detennined  to  con- 
tame  to  the  last  our  utmost  exertions,  thoiiirh  wo  coid.l  never 
"nee  oncoura-o  the  men  by  assuring  them  of  our  makin- 
|,'nn.l  progress  ;  and  setting  out  at  seven  in  th."  ovenii.Lr.  soon 
tnuii.l  that  our  hope  of  havin-  pormanently  reacln-d  better  ico 
was  not  to  bo  reali/od,  fo.  the  tloo  on  wluoh  wo  slept  was  so 
l-ill  "t  lionun<.cs  that  it  took  usjnst  six  hours  to  cross  it.  tho 
kdf'^r",^  "l!;''^^'^  ^'"^   '"'^  excooding  two  miles  an.l  a 

Such  a  result  was  disheartening  enough  to  the  offi- 
cers, who  kn(nv  to  what  little  effect  tlu^  struggles  wero 
made,  ot  which,  however,  tho  men  !i[)pearfHT  to  have 
iH.  suspicion,  though  Parry  says  "  tlu^y  often  laughin.dy 

r'.""'';'   riM -'"^  ''''*'  ''■*''■*'   ''   '""-  >'""'^'   .yetting 'to  this 
'■'  •  J  l"«  was  merely  tho  point  assumed,  as  they 

certainly  had  no  suspicion  that  on  their  arrival  at  that 
l)ou)t  they  would  have  been  entithnl  to  om^   thousand 
pounds.*     lUit,  had  they  known  it,  they  could  not  have 
*  By  ordpr  in  council. 

14  S   * 


<  > 


;  ( 


I   i 


*    -; 


hJ 


Il 


*) 


10 


ARCTJC    VOYAGKr 


i^'' 


h 


liihorcd   i7U»i'c  cai'iicstly  lliiiii  ihey  (iid.     Tn   tlicir  slow 


(Kill 


ICC  1u  tlu^  iiortlnv.ird,  tliC!  ire  hcciiiiic  so  siiiiill  llmt 


ii   siiiirh!   |)it'C(!   only  could  bo   iouod  to  pluco  tlio  b(jiit,s 
upon.     On  tlio  "Jiitli  I'arry  siiys, 

"  Tli(5  \v«'iith<'r  improviiii:  lownrd  iiodii  on  tlio  2(itli,  we 
()l)f!iiii('(l  llic  iiicridiiui  Jiltitiidc  ol  the  snii,  l)y  wliicli  wo  I'oiiiid 
ours'-'vcs  ill  lalilndc  iJ-JJ  'lO'U;}";  so  tli;it,  since  our  lust  oh- 
MTViition  (ill,  inidini.'lit  on  ihc  '■1'2(\),  we  luid  lost  by  drift 
less  tliJiii  tbirteeu  miles  ;iii< 


I  a  bait';   tor  wc;  wi're  now  n 


no 

lore 


ibau  three  miles  to  the  soufhicard.  of  that  observation.  thoiiL:ii 
we  had  certainly  traveled  between  ten  and  eleven  dm;  nnrtli 
in  this  int<"rvid  I  Airain,  we  were  but  one  mile  to  the  north 
(if  our  |)la(e  at  noon  on  tin,'  'Jlsl,  thonirh  we  had  estimated 


orir  ( 


list; 
d   tl 


nice  niaOc 


lal 


tor 


:oo(l  at  tweiity-tiiree  mile 
ast   live  davs  we  had  b 


J  hus  it  ap- 
,.^,..,,1   ......   ..,,    ,,..     .,..,.   live  days  we  had   been  striiq-irliii^ 

against  a  southerly  ilrift  exceeding  four  miles  a  day." — 1'.  Id,'. 
It  in)W  becaiiH'  ohviotis  that  the  sea  in  this  latitiido 
had  assiiiiied  a  chaiiictcr  utterly  iiriiit  tor  th(^  kind  of 
navij^ation,  or,  rather,  of  lloe-traveliiiu,  which  had  hither- 
to been  pnrsned— in  short,  that  it  had  become  hopeless 
to  pin'suc^  the  jonriiey  any  farther. 

"  It  had.  for  some  time  past,  been  too  evident  that  the 
]iatnr(!  of  the  ice  with  which  we  bad  to  contend  was  such, 
and  its  drift  to  the  southward,  es|)ecially  with  a  northerly 
wind,  so  irreat,  as  to  pnl  beyond  our  I'eacli  any  thini:  but  a 
very  )noderate  share  of  success  in  travelinj/ to  the  northward. 
Still,  however,  we  had  been  anxious  to  reach  the  hii^hesl 
latitude  which  our  means  would  allow,  and  with  this  \  iew, 
althoujjrh  our  whole  object  liad  loiii^  become  unattainable, 
had  pushed  on  to  the  northward  for  thirty-five  days,  or  until 
half  our  resources  wer(>  expended,  and  \\io  middle  of  our 
s(\ison  ai-rived.  For  tla^  last  lew  days  the  eii:hty-tliird  paral- 
lel was  the  limit  to  which  we  bad  vcMitured  to  extend  our 
hopes;  but  even  this  exj)ectation  had  becomt?  c(msiderablv 
wi'akencd  since  the  settimr  in  of  the  last  northerly  wind, 
whicli  continued  to  drive  us  to  the  southward  duriuii;  tlu! 
Kecessaiy  hours  of  rest  nearly  as  much  as  we  could  gain  by 
»'leven  or  twelve  hours  of  daily  labor.  Had  our  success 
1)een  at  all  proiiortionate  to  our  exertions,  it  was  my  full  in- 
tention to  have  ])roceeded  a  few  days  beyond  the  middle  ot 
the  piU'iod  for  which  we  wen;  jtrovided.  trusting  to  the  re- 
sources we  ex])ected  to  iind  at  'P;ibl(>  Island.  But  this  was 
so  till'  from  beuig  tlu^  case,  that  T  could  not  l)ut  consider  it  as 
incurring  usele;  s  iiitigiu'  to  the  oilicers  and  men,  and  umn>ces- 
baiy  wear  and  tear  for  the  boats,  to  persevere  any  longer  iu 


parry's  polar  voya(;e. 


211 


tlH^  nit,  mpt      I  ,l.-trrnn,>,.,l.  tluT.-lon-.  on  dvi,,.'  il...  proplo 
;"'-  .■..tin.  .I.ys  ,v.s,    ^vhuli  thrv   v.rv  unuU  ur.drll  ,- .d 

"""l'.»-<l  1"  ni.ak.n-  ;,ll  the  nl.srrvations  ul.i.l,  ,ui.'lul,r  iu- 

tMvMm^  m  tlas  lati.u.l.  :  ...d  tlu..  ,.  M.,  o,u  o.MHu- n.un.  .  u 
1-    I'llnwiu,^  ,h.y.      H-n..^  n„n,nunin,„..l  M.v  ia,..ntion.  t 

nrru,^,nus,  ^.,uUj-.M-e  n.ucU  fuv.-n-cl  hy  u  n-unrkably  11.0 

In  lacf,  tli(.com.ni..Kl..r  „fllu.  «.x|„.,liti„n.  tl...  (,m,ers 
aiHl  men  luul  u  1  ol  tluMu  Ihum.  lubnnuuslv  an.l  usrlrssly 
.;n.I.l..yo.l  t.n-  tl.irfy-tive  days  „r  continuous  and  „msi 
tiitigimi-  ,lnul,ir...y,  to  h,,  ccn.imml  in  its  ..(ii-cf  to  noth- 
i.ii.^  ps  than  tl...  Jalmi-  of  rollin,ir  tl.o  stonr  of  Sisvpl.us, 
tl..'  /!(..•  on  winch  they  wc.v  tn.vcrsinji.  as  they  su pnos- 
.■<!,  tcM  or  twelve  niilcs  one  day.  jiavins  rolled  tli.Mu 
bm-k  a-mn  ten  or  twelve  iniles.  and  often  more,  the  n.-xt. 

i  lie    urthcst  ponit  of  latitude  reached  was  on  the  »;)d 
■•md  probably  was  to  H-J     4-3';   that  of  their  return,  H->^' 
•  ••    'S.  ,  and  ion«.  UP  2;V  east.      The  ,Iav  was  (,ne  of 
the  warmest  and  most  pleasant  tliev  vet   had  ..xpcri- 
;;iK'ed  upon  tlie  ice;  the  thennometer  (h.Iv  from  ;]1     to 

-no  r",i  ;  ■•''  ""'^  "' '  '"  ^*'^'  ^^""5  '^^  l^'^tto",  with 

oUO  liithoms  ol  Inie. 

-At  the  cxtrrnir  point  of  our  jonniey  our  distance  f,n,a 
U,..  Ilerlu  was  only  one  hundred  and  seventv-tuo  ndl..s  in  a 
■  ■  -      U.  direction.      lo   accoinpli>h   this   .fistance    we   ha.l 

Mv,,-sed..y  our  reckon.u.^  two  biUMhed  and  ninetv-two 
ii>il.-N  of  which  about  one  hun.l.rd  were  peid.nned  bv  water 
l.rcvously  to  our  enterin.r  the  ice.  As  we  traveled  bv  far  th^ 
,:-'.eater  part  ot  our  distance  on  the  ice  three,  an.i  not  untV,  - 
«|"';ntly  hve  tujies  over,  we  may  safely  multiply  the  len-tli 
"1  'iH-  road  by  two  and  a  half;  s.fthat  our  whn'le-dis^.ncerou 
•  i  Ncry  moderate  calculation,  amounted  to  live  huiidivd  an.l 
n.^hty  geograj.hical,  or  six  hundivd  and  sixtv-,.ij,t  statute 
i-nles  being  nearly  sullici.u.t  to  have  nviehed'  tlie  i>„Ie  in  a 
;  :nvt  hue  Lp  to  this  perio.l  we  had  been  particularlv  for- 
tuiiate  1,1  the  preservation  ot  our  health  ;  neither  si<'kne.;s  nor 
<:isualt,es  having  <.ccurred  among  us.  with  the  exception  of 
'i|<".  tr.thng  accKh-nts  alrea.ly  mentioned,  a  few  bowel  com- 
plaints, which  were  soon  removed  bv  care,  an.l  som,-  rather 
t.-oubles.,me  eases  ot  chilblains,  arising  from  our  cou.stant  ex- 
posure  to  wet  and  cohl.""— I'.  K)},  lo:,. 

Uu  this  day  of  re^t  from  thi!ii-  iubors,  Parry  soys, 


n^ 


.{ 


n  ' 


i 
;  1 


mm 


212 


ARCTIC    VOVACKrf. 


"1 


"Our  ciisiirns   mikI    |icii(liiiits    wen"   (li<Ml;i\ nl   WurliiL'   tint 

il;iy  ;   iiinl  si'M-itIv  n-i  wr  iTL/rcItcd   iiol    li;i\  iiil'    I ii  iililc  in 

IjitisI,  tlif  l')iili>li  \\,\'j  ill  llir  liiulirst  liititiidc  tn  wliicil  wc  Irnl 
iis|iii'fil,  \vc  sli.iil  |)rili,i|)s  l)c  (wciiscd  ill  linviiii,'  l«'lt  sdhh.' 
l.ttic  |)|-i(lr  ill  lii'iiiLT  till'  lii'iiri'i's  nf  it  to  m  |t;ii-,illcl  consider;!. 
I>ly  Im'NoikI  tllllt  lliclitiiiiicd  ill  any  ntluT  \\  i'li-;illtllc|iticiilrd 
irccird,"' 

( )ii  the  v.'7tii  tlit'v  set  (lilt  (111  their  return  to  the  Noiitli- 
Wiird,  iiikI.  siiys  I'lirry,  '•  I  cmi  siitcly  siiy  tliiif,  drciiry 
iiiid  clKM'rlfss  as  wcrt^  \]ui  scenes  we  were  iihont  to 
leiivi',  we  never  turned  lioinewiird  with  so  little  siitisluc- 
tioii  as  on  this  occiisioii."  No  niiui  nor  body  of  men  iire 
rh!ir,i;e!il»lt^  with  hianie  lor  not  iiccoin|)lishiiii!;  iiupossiliil- 
jties  :  the  piirty  in  (|uestioii  have  tloiie  more  than  liad 
ever  lieen  done  at  any  time,  or  more  j)i'ol)al)ly  tjian  will 
ever  be  (loiie  aiiain  (»n  the  same  plan  ;  it  is  mncii  to  sav 
iliat  they  succeeded,  in  advanciiii;  toward  the  Poli;  of 
the  eartli,  to  a  point  whi(di  no  liiiiiian  Ix'in^  liefore  tliein 
liad  ever  reached,  and  after  a  cheertiil  and  patient  en- 
durance^ of  laborious  driidiiery,  which,  it  is  to  be  lioped. 
jio  human  beiii^  will  ever  lienafter  be  indiiceij  to  rejieat. 
It  will  not  be  necessary  to  follow  our  vovairei's  on 
theii"  retui'ii;  the  permaneiicy  of  the  soutluM'n  current, 
for  so  it  would  seem,  alforded  them  tiie  satisfaction  of 
feidiiii:;  that  whatever  leni^th  of  joiii'iiey  they  made  to  tin; 
northward  would  be  so  niuidi  yaiii,  and  no  bacU-slidiiii; ; 
every  mile  would  t(dl ;  they  had,  moi'eover,  tin*  advan- 
tage wlii(di  is  noticed  by  I?arry,  of  jiettiin;  rid  of  tlu^ 
ijlarc!  from  th«>  snow,  on  account  of  the  lownt!ss  of  tlit^ 
sun  at  iiiiiht,  as  also  tlu^  comtiirtablo  change  wIumi  looU- 
iiiij  out  for  the  road  ;  and  had  the  sun  behind  them,  in- 
stead of  facing;  it,  as  on  the  outward  journey.  JNothiiiij 
very  remarkable  occuiTed  on  th  'ir  r(!turn.  A  quantity 
of  snow  was  met  with,  tiiiiiiMl  to  the  depth  of  several 
inches  with  sonu^  re(l  coloriiif:;  matter:  this  red  snow 
occurred  in  two  or  three*  spots,  some*  of  which  they  hot,- 
tieil,  and  found,  on  examination  in  Kn^lund  by  Sir  Will- 
iimi  Hooker,  as  former  specimens  were,  to  be  the  P(//- 
melld  nirniis,  oiu^  of  the  Ali^a',  and  which,  lonjf  befor(», 
JJauer  had  |)ron()unred  to  be  Undo  fiivalis. 

"  A  fat  she-hear  crossed  o*-er  :i  l-iiio  of  wat(>r  to  visit  w*, 
and  approaching  the  boats  within  twenty  yanls,  was  killed 
by  Liout.  iloss.     The  ecene  which  foUowetl  was  laughablL', 


iiniiL,'   Ilio 

Ml    illlli'    111 

ll  we  Inil 

li'lf      Sdllll- 

(•iiiisi(lcr;i- 
ji'iilicali'd 

lie  suiilli- 
t,  (Ircury 

ill)()llt     to 

'    Siltisl'llC- 

IDCIl    ill'll 

upossihil- 
tliiiii  liiiil 
tliiiii  will 
■ii  to  siiv 
Pole  of 
ore  tlit'iii 

ticllt     (Ml- 

)('  liojx'd, 
()  vcpciil. 
iii^t'r.s  on 
I  current, 
"iiction  of 
idc  to  the 
k-slidiiii;; 
1(3  adviui- 
id  of  tlu^ 
ss  ot"  the 
luMi  look- 
theni.  iu- 

iS'otliini; 

qujintity 
)f  seveiiil 
red  SHOW 
they  l)ot;- 
Sir  Will- 
tlie  Pal- 
ijr  bofoi'(% 

:o  visit  us, 
was  killed 
lautrhable, 


r  A  R U  Y  ri    I' u  I,  A  R    V O  Y  A  (.  i: . 


213 


even  to  MS  who  partjcipiitrd  in  it.  J5«dore  the  aiilnial  had 
•  inn.'  hituii:  the  snow,  on.-  of  the  nwu  uas  alon--ide  of  hrr 
with  an  ojicn  knife,  and  hcin-  a>krd  wliat  hr  w;l>  ai.oni  t<. 
iIm.  iv|.lird,  that  he  was  \nn\v^  to  cut  out  the  iieart  and  liv.-r, 
to  |)iil  into  the  pot  which  happened  to  he  then  hoilin^'  {\>r  oui' 
supper.  In  short,  hcti.iT  the  hoar  liad  he.ui  doa.l  an  hom-, 
all  hands  fif  us  were  einjdoyed,  to  our  ^'rcat  satisliictioii.  iu 
dixiissini,'  the  inorits  not  onlv  of  the  said  heart  and  liver,  i)ut 
a  pound  per  man  of  thr  lles'h  ;  hrsides  which,  soiiii'  (.r  o'tli.T 
of  the  men  were  eonstantiv  frviie,^  steaks  during'  the  whole 
day.  ovi'r  a  la.u'e  fire  made  of  the  hluhhoi."— 1*.  HI. 

The  eotisecpuiiice  of  thus  ^Mn-niaiidi/iiiii;  ou  fut  hoar's 
(le.-h  was  ohvioiis.      JJevoured  a.s  it  was  witli  such  avid- 
ity hy  th((  ,.;!'u,  some   of  them  couiplaiiied  for  sevoral 
days  of  pains   such    as  usually   arise    froui   iudi<iesfiou, 
"thou^di  they  all,"  says    Ptiny,    "  auuisiiiuly   euou^di, 
attrihuted  this  effect  t(»  the  (puility,  aud  not  tl'u^  quiUiMty 
of  meat  tliey  had  eateu."     Oti  tile  r^th  of  August  tlu'y 
hauled  up  llu^  hoats  ouly  once,  and  liad  made,  thoujili  hy 
a  wiiidiiiii  ciiaiuiol,  four  or  live  milos  of  southiujr.     ^.  'Y\i\^ 
was  so  unusual  a  circuiustauce,  that  we  could  iu)t  lielp 
entertaiiiiu<;  som(»  liopc^  (.four  heiiic  at  no  ,trfeat  disfanc*) 
ffom  the  open  sea.  which  seomed  tho  mon^  prohahlo, 
from  our  liaviiiij;  seen  seven  or  ei^lit  narwhals,  and  not 
less  than  two  hundred  rotyes,  a  fhick  of  these  little  hirds 
occurrin,i.jiii  evcuy  hole  of  water."     On  tiie  Kith  a  struiiij; 
s(Mitherly  wind,  thiit  luid  blown  from  that  (piarter  for 
th<(  last  thirty  hoiu's,  had  blown  tliem  back  to  the  north- 
ward only  four  nfiles.  which  it  is  said  "  allorded  a  last 
and  striking;  proof  of  the  ^nMioral  tendency  of  tho  ice  to 
drift  southward  about  the  nuu'idians  on  which  we  had 
been  traveliuii."     Arrived  at  Hl^  ;}()',  tho  sea  was  found 
to  be.  crowded  with  shrimps  and  other  sea-hisecls,  prin- 
cipally tho   Cin)  J^ura/l/s  nm\  Ai\<>on(iuhi   Aniica,  on 
which   liumerous   hirds  wero  foedin,<;.     Tiiis  was  tho 
1  Ith  of  Aui^ust,  on  the  morning  of  wliich  the  Hrst  sound 
of  the  swell  was  hvnvd  undi-r  tho  hollow  iMari,'ins  of  tho 
ice.  and  in  a  quarter  of  tin  h(»ur  we  reached  the  open 
sea,  which  was  dashiiiir  Avith  heavy  surges  against  tho 
outer  masses.     "  We   lauded  our  boats/'  says  Parry, 
^'  iq)on  Olio  of  these,  to  eat  our  last  m(>al  upotl  the  ice'." 
Thoy  were  now  fifty  miles  distant  from  Table   Island, 
wiiicli  thoy  reached  about  noun,  aud  found  that  the  beara 


'I     ^ 


'    i 


'  i\ 


>    \ 

I       ! 

I  •  '  . 

i 

\ 


1r\- 


?^ 


ii>i 


211 


AKcrrc  vf)VA<;r,s. 


liiul  (Icvoiii'cd  all  tlif  hrcinl,  wliicli  ((CciisioiuMl  u  rciiiink 
Jiiiiniii,'  tli(>  iiMMi  tli;it  ••  IJiiiiii  \\!is  only  s(|iiiirr  witli  iis." 
<  iipliiiii  I'iii  ry's  oliscrviilioii  (tii  liiiiilly  (|iiiltiiii;  tin-  ice, 
nl'lrr  liiUiiii;  lip  Ills  iiIhkIc  ii|H)Ii  it  Tor  lull y-»'iylif  diiys, 
\Vii.s.  >•  I  ciiii  iiol  (l(iscril)o  llu-  cniiirort  \vc  cxpcriciict'il  in 
once  iiioic  lii'tfliiii:  ii  <liy  iiii'l  >n\\i\  1(101111^."  ()rtli«'  litr- 
ty-('ii;lit  (liiys,  lliiily-l  luce  wcic  piisscd  nii  llir  uiitwjinl, 
iiiiil  litlrcM  nil  tlir  icliini  vuyiiu*' ;  such  is  the  (lilicit'iirn 
iM'twrcii  uoiiii:  with  the  strcaiii  iiml  iiiiaiiisf  it, 

'I'ahlr  Isliiiid,  however,  airoided  ii(»  place  Tor  the  men 
\i)  rest.  Sn  ni^y;ed  and  iiiliuspitalil"  is  this  iioithein 
rock,  liiat  not  ii  siii;;le  spot  was  t'oiiii  .  where  tli»!  I»(iats 
(■(iiild  lie  hauled  up.  'To  the  i^let  lyiiijf  oIl'Table  island, 
\vhi(di,  J*aiiy  says,  "is  iiilerestiiiu,  as  heiiiu  the  iiurth- 
ernnuist  known  land  upon  tiu;  <;|()|),>,  |  lijive  applied  the 
name  ol"  LieuhMianf  Koss  in  ihe  ciiait ;  addinsz,  "tor  I 
l»eliev(^  no  individual  can  have  e\<'rted  hiirisell"  mon^ 
stieiiuously  lo  rob  it  oflhis  distinction.''  Any  ihin^r  that, 
conrers  a  disliiictioii  on  the  nfime  of  James  IJoss  is  wor- 
thy of  recordiiiii,  and  such  is  the  lollowini:;  passaj^e  tVoni 
Sir  William  I  looker  on  the  "■  IJolany  :"  "Those  spe- 
cies that  were  gathered  in  lioss's  Islet  are  pe(Miliarly  in- 
terest iijf,  i'rom  th(!  circninstanc(5  ot"  that  island  conslitu- 
tiiiii  lilt  most  northern  known  land  in  lh<MV(»rld."  'J'JKi 
plants  named  ar(\  JSrynm — llypmnn  (two  species) — 
'rricostomuin  —  I'olytrichum  —  .luiuj;erinanniu —  (Jyro- 
phora  (Kocktripci,  two  species) — -('etraria — (jiJiiomyco 
(Reindeer  yrass,  two  spc^cies)— St(M"coiolon — Splnrro- 
})lioi'on — Al(^ct{)l•ia — ( 'orniculiiria — 11  va — Pliilola. 

It  was  not  till  the  'Jlst  ot"  Atijjust  that  they  arrived  on 
hoard  the  Jle<da,  after  Jui  ahseiici!  of  sixty-one  days, 
••  heiiiii;  rect^ived,"  says  Parry,  "with  that  warm  and 
c:()rdial  welcome  whicli  can  alone  be  felt  and  not  describ- 
ed." Thus  ended  at  Spitzboriicn  tiiis  novel  and  pei'il- 
ous  (^xpe(htion,  of  which,  thonyh  tlio  object  was  not  ac- 
complished, every  oKieer  and  man  employed  in  it  may 
b»!  proud.     Thus  far  j^arry  concludes  liis  narnitivo  : 

'*  The  dLstanre  tniversed  durinix  this  excursion  was  fivo 
Viuudn-il  and  sixty-nine  treoLrrapliical  miles;  hut  allowinir  for 
the  iiuiiihcr  of  tinicti  we  had  to  return  fiir  our  buirtrai^'e  durini^ 
tJii'  f^rcatiT  |)arl  (tf  the  jounievs  over  tlu^  i(,'e,  we  estimated 
uur  actual  truvcliuij  ut  nine  iiuudrcd  and  auveuty-eiylit  geo- 


, 


PARRY  rf    POLAR    VOYAdK. 


21.1 


I'ciiiiirk 
itii  IIS." 
till-  ill', 

It     flll\  s, 

■iicnl  ill 
thf  lur- 

lllW  !ll(l, 

ticitMico 

lie  Mien 
Kirtliri'ii 
U!  bniit'^ 
^  Island, 
I'  nortli- 
ilicd  tlic 
.  "  for  I 
■II"  morn 
liiiiZ  fliiit, 
s  is  wor- 

ljf(^  tVoiii 

[)se  s|)»>- 
liiirly  iii- 
[•otistilw- 
"     T\h^ 

•ics) — 
(Jyro- 

loiiiycf^ 

pllilTO- 
tiU 

•ivi'd  on 
(iiiys, 
inn  and 
descrili- 
id  \wr\\- 
not  ac- 
it  may 
ivo  : 

\v;is  fivt) 
nviiiir  for 
:r  duriiit; 
'stiiniitrd 
iylit  ut'O- 


('( 


jT'^iphicMl,  or  tli'vrii  liiiiidn-d  iiiid  twciity-scvcn  stalutr  inili-y. 

('iill'idi'rill','  our  (•oii>|;illt  cxIkoUIi'  In  wrt.  imM,  ;ind  tilti_'i|r, 
our  .-torkiii:,'s  liiiviiit,'  ^'I'limdlv  in-ni  drriielird  in  ^imw -\\  ;ilr|' 
liir  IvM'lvt'  hours  oiil  ut'  cNrry  t'uur-iiiid-tu  oiity,  I  had  Lrrfnt, 
rriisdii  to  hr  lhaid\hd  lor  the  rvcrjii'iit  lirallh  ill  which,  iipotJ. 
thi'  \\  Imir,  wo  roiichcd  llir  shi|).  'j'lirro  is  mm  dnuhl  lliat  w  m 
i^atl  all  hrcoiiio,  in  a  crrtaiii  dcLrrre,  L;r:idually  wrakor  lor 
sunn'  tiiiio  past;  Imt  only  thn'o  men  ol'  our  parly  now  rr- 
(jiiifcd  nii'diral  care,  two  of  thom  with  liadly  swollcd  U"j::f 
;i!id  u'oiirrid  doliility,  and  tho  othor  from  a  hrnix-;  hut  even 
t'lrsr  three;  rctiinird  to  thtir  duty  in  a  short  tiiiii'. 

"  1  can  not  conchidr  the  a(.'Connt  of  our  p  roc  red  iuL's  without 
cndcavoriim  to  do  justice  to  the  cheerful  alacrity  uikI  unwea- 
ri'd  zeal  displayed  l»y  my  e«Jinpanioiis,  Itotli  otHcers  and  men, 
ill  the  course  of  this  excursion;  and  if  steady  j»erseverancti 
;)iid  active  exertion  on  their  parts  could  have  accomplished 
(lur  oliject,  success  would  uiidoiilitedlv  have  crowiH'd  our  la- 
i)iirs.  r  must  also  mention,  to  the  creilit  of  the  olK(;ers  of 
Woolwich  Dockyard,  who  took  so  much  pains  in  tlu;  con- 
slruction  of  our  lioats,  that  notwithstandiiiLr  the  constant  and 
severe  trial  t<»  which  their  strenu'th  had  heen  put — and  a  nioru 
vvne  trial  could  not  well  !«>  devised — not  a.  timher  wan 
Mu-unu',  a  plank  split,  or  the  smallest  injury  sustained  in"  them  ; 
lliev  wi-re,  indeed,  j'.s  ti^dit  and  as  lit  tor  service  when  wti 
paclied  the  ship,  as  when  ihey  were  first  received  un  board, 
.'uid  in  every  I'espect.  answered  the  intended  jinrpose  admiru- 
l.ly. "*—!'.  V,\'!,  1-JI». 

Ciiptaiii  Parry  gives  all  duo  credit  for  tlio  diligoiit  mid 
nctive  manner  in  which  Lieutenants  Foster  imd  Crozier 
f'lillilled  tlieir  instrtu'tioiis  duriiii;  his  iihsence,  and  for  tho 
coiu]>let(>.  state  in  wliich  \w,  found  th(5  Hecla  on  iiis  r(;- 
tiirii — tin;  various  obscM'vations  interesting  to  science 
sedulously  |)erformed,  specimens  of  natural  histoi'y  care- 
liilly  collected  and  presiM'ved,  and  all  tlui  duties  of  tho 
sliip  carried  on  to  his  perl'ect  satisfaction.  Many  inter- 
esting observations  were  madc!  on  tlu^  incliinition,  dip, 
and  intensity  of  the  magiu'tic  needle.  "  Anmng  other 
tnagnetical  observations,"  siiys  Ptu'iy,  "  an  interestin/^ 
series  of  hourly  (wperiiuents  hiui  been  iiuide  on  the  di- 
urnal changes  of  variation  and  intensity,  iind  contiuuetl 
lor  several  days  without  interruiition,  by  the  two  lieu- 
tenants," From  these  it  ap|)ears  that  a  diurnal  oscilla- 
tion of  the  inagtietic  needle  takes  j)lac(!,  usually  amomit- 

A  wcll-di'siTviil  coiniiliiiifiit  to  the  iirtiticors  of  that  yanl,  and  to 
t:."ii  ijlili.'  iiia.~t()'-.-liiuwriulit,  .^]r.  Uliver  Laiiu;, 


'      l\ 


I      I 


v 


'.   i 


Jf  -f 


i>i(; 


AKc'Cic  v^vAcr^q. 


iiiL'  t(»  Ji'iMiii  !i  (|»«m'c('  II,  .1  a  liiiir,  a  III  ill  sonic  iiistaiiPiN 
to  •,*,'',  till'  iiiaMiiiiiiM  \arial.oii  \u>\\\.\  altoiit  1''  'Jj'  l'.\I. 
TIh'  cliaiini'  (»t'  iiitciisily  ;:i\iiii:  ail  iticirascd  artioii  \va~ 
iiliniit  in''  'JD'  A.M.,  and  ininiinnni  intfn>ity  alioiit  ninl- 
ni-lit. 

Till'  aninials  met  with  un  the  shores  of  'Preinenhni:; 
lias  and  ol  \\'a\^at  .*^!rait  wen-  ol"  the  sanii'  kind,  Imi 
less  |)lentil"iil  than  those  on  I  lie  \\  est  coast  ol'  .'*«|)it/,l»eryeii : 
they  consisted  cliielly  of  srii-liorses.  naiwlials,  and  white 
\\  hales,  hilt  no  hiack  ones;  the  more  common  aninials 
were  principally  reindeer,  hears,  foxes,  ulaiicons  ;ipd 
ivfwy  iinlls,  tern,  eider  ducks,  and  <j;roiise.  Se\ciily 
I'eindeer  Were  killed,  cliielly  small,  and  uniil  the  midiile 
ol"  Aiiirnsf  not  in  iiood  condition  ;  tliev  were  met  with  in 
herds.  lV(nii  six  oi"  eiyht  to  twenty.  Three  hears  were 
killed,  one  of  which  was  of  nunc  than  ordinary  diiiieu- 
sions.  measiirinji  eiiiht  leet  lonr  inches  tVoni  the  siioiit 
to  the  root  ol  the  tail. 

The  itoat  ex|)edition  was  less  fortunate  with  remnd 
to  aninials  ;  few  livini;  creatures  were  seen,  and  tlii'se 
nioslly  ynlls.  and  one  insect  found  on  a  piece  of  ice.  and 
it  was  a  dead  A/'hls.  It  has  a  cha|)ter  to  itself  in  tlie 
Appendix,  headed  Insij  r.  I*airy  says,  *'  I  am  indelited 
to  the  tViendship  of  ,\Ir.  .1.  ('nrtis  for  the  followiii"  de- 
sci'iption  of  the  only  insect  that  was  ohtained  diiri  lie 
voyJiiZ''-"  The  description  i^ives  no  intelliniltle  in 
titni.  only  that  it  rosemhies  another  species  called  .1. 
ji/c((f.  "The  circumstance  of  the  Aphis  horealis  has - 
iiiij;  luuni  found  on  lloatinu  lloes  of  ice  on  the  l*oIar  Sea, 
at  one  hundred  miles  distance  (Venn  the  nearest  known 
laud,  and  as  fai*  north  as  f^'J^,'  ,  I'endei's  it  in  a  more  than 
ordinary  deiiree  interestiiiii.  As  the  one  it  resemhles 
fcM'ds  on  the  silver  lir.  s(»  it  is  su|>pos(>d  that  the  lloatiii^r 
trees  of  lir  that  art^  to  he  found  so  abundantly  on  tlie 
shores  and  to  the  northward  of  Spit/herjien  mij;ht  pos- 
sihly  he  the  means  hy  Nvhich  this  insect  has  heen  trans- 
portt'd  to  tlie  northern  rejiions.''  Perhaps  so;  hut  it 
may  he  askj'd,  By  what  possihie  means  were  tlu^  jirs 
thus  transported  .' 

Sir  Kdward  l*arry.  at  the  conclusion  of  his  narrative, 
nfter  ohserviiiii  that  the  ohject  is  of  inoi'(>  dillicnlt  attaiii- 
inent  than  was  heforc  supjiosed,  even  hy  those  pei'sons 


1.  J 


'I  I 


I'AUltV  H    iMtl.AR    VoYACi:. 


217 


istiitirr-i 
J'  l*..\l. 
i(Ui  wu^ 
tut  iiinl- 

rciiltiir'j; 
/nid.  Iiiii 

111  wllilc 

iniiiiiiils 

(»U<    ill"l 

St'vciity 
(^  miililli' 
t  witli  ill 
ll's  were 
,    diliirli- 

||l>     SllUllt 

li  rciiiiril 
ind  tlic^i- 
f  icr.  mill 
If  ill  111.- 
iii(l«>l)ti'il 
will"  di'- 
iiri  'h- 
ill 

callrd  J. 
idis  Ir.n- 
oliir  St'ii, 
St  known 
lore  tliiiii 
I'Sftiiblt's 
lloatiiiif 
y  on  iho 
liiilit  |)os- 
cn  traiis- 
o  :   l)ut  it 
13  tlu^  jir-'i 

iiiirrativc, 

nit  attain- 

'  persons 


wlin  wrro  tilt'  Itfst  (|iialilird  to  judiii'  (»!'  it,  is  still  ot' 
opinion  tliat.  al'toi*  inncli  ronsidi'iatioii,  iintj  soinr  t'\|io- 
liriico  of"  tlif  \arioiis  dilticiillioN  which  lioloiiy  to  it.  Im 
(an  not  rccoininciid  any  niatrrial  iiiipt'ovcinont  in  tho 
plan  lately  adopted.  With  all  deference  to  the  opininii 
nf'  so  distinguished  a  sea-ojlicer.  in  jiossession  of  xi  nnich 
rxperieiico  as  Sir  Mdward  l*airy,  there  ar(^  others  w  ho 
express  dislike  of  such  a  plan  :  and  it  is  not  iinproliahio 
that  many  of  his  I'eaders  will  he  dispused  to  come  to  the 
ciiiicliision  that,  so  Ion};  as  the  (ireeiiland  Seas  are  ham- 
jicied  with  ice — so  loii<i  as  lines,  and  Ikmiiiiiocs,  and 
iii'ii\y  masses  continue  to  he  formeij — so  loiiif  as  a  de- 
termined sontherlv  current  pre\ails,  >io  loiin  will  aiiv  at- 
t('!ii])t  to  cany  ont  the  plan  in  (piestion  in  like  maniier 
fail.  \()  lahorions  driidj^ery  will  ever  he  ahle  to  coinpier 
the  opposing  progress  (»f  the  current  and  the  ice.  JJe- 
siiles,  it  can  hardly  he  donltted  that  this  j^allanf  ollicer 
will  admit,  on  farther  consideration,  that  this  nimsnal 
kind  of"  disgusting  and  unseKimin-like  'ihoi-  is  not  pre- 
cisely such  as  would  he  relished  hy  the  men.  ami  it  may 
he  said,  is  not  exactly  fitted  fur  a  Uritish  inan-of'-war's 
man;  moi'eover,  that  it  I'erpiired  liis  own  all-powerlnl 
e\ainple  to  make  it  even  tolerahk^ 

The  nai'iative  having  thus  far  advam  rd,  a  ronversa- 
tioii  witli  Sii'  Kdwani  I'arry  prepared  the  writer  in 
some  dt'gree  for  the  followiiiii  letter  : 

"  Ailmirallif,  '■2r>/h  N<>r.,  \[\  l.".. 

"  Mv  PKAii  Sir  .Idiin, — rnderstaiidiuL'  that  ymi  arc  picp.ir- 
iiiLT  an  account  of  the  proceed ini,'s  of  all  the  exiieditieus  hy 
.►•ra  and  land  wliicli  have  hreii  eni:a::ed  in  Arctic  diMctveiy 
ill  our  own  times,  1  venture  to  tnnihlc  yon  with  niv  present 
views  as  to  till!  practicjihility  of  reachiii;,'  the  .Xorlli  I'ole  over 
tlie  ice,  to  which  you  may  p(is.>ihly  make  alln.-ion  in  the  course 
(if  the  interestinj^'  narratives  which  you  hove  undertaken. 

"  It  is  evident  that  tin;  causes  of  failure  in  our  former  at- 
tein])t  in  tlit;  year  l!{'27  were  ]iriii(ipally  two:  thsf  and  cliief- 
Iv,  the  hriikeii,  riiLrired.  and  sn/y  state  i,\'  the  suriiiee  of  the  i((> 
ovei-  wliich  we  traveled;  and.  secondly,  the  dnttiiiLr  of  tho 
whole  hoily  of  ice  in  a  southerly  directiun.  On  mature  ro- 
coiisideration  of  all  the  cii'cumstaiices  attendim:  this  eiiter- 
]>rise.  I  am  induced  to  alter  the  opinion  I  :.'a\c  as  Tn  its  prac 
hial)ilitv  in  niy  .hiurnal.  p.  I  If.  hecause  1  lieliese  it  to  lie  an 
(iliject  of  no  veiy  dithcult  atiainineiit,  if  set  ahout  in  a  ditfer- 
cut  manner.     My  plan  is,  t<j  go  out  with  u  shi^de  bhip  tu  Spiti- 


i 


',! 


^18 


ARCTIC    VOYAC.Eg. 


■1 


I 


b<^r;jon,  just  ns  wf  did  in  tlio  llccln,  1)iit  not  so  ofirly  in  iIk, 
Wii.-ioii,  tlic  objrct,  lor  lliiit  year  l)<'iii<:  iiicifly  to  tiiid  sccino 
wirilc-  (|iiiirliT.s  !is  I'ar  north  as  possiMc.      Koi-  tliis  ])Mr|)usr.  it 
^V(llll(l  only  Ix'  nt-cfssary  to  rcadi  llakluyt's  Ilt'adlan<l  liv  tin? 
«'nd  ol  .Iiuic,  wliicii  wonld   itlnrd  ainpli-  Icisnro  I'nr  (.'xaniinin" 
tli<'  niorr  nortiirrn  lands,  (•■;j)fcially  al»oiit  the  iSrvcn  Islands, 
wliiTo,  in  all  |)rol»al)ility,  a  sfcnrc  nook  niiirht  Ik*  t'oinid   liir 
tilt-   siiii),  and  a    stai'lini:-|toint    for  the   ])ro|)ost'd   cxpcditina 
Komc  IdiIv  or  filty  miles  in  advance  of  the  point  wlic-.    tho 
Hccla  was  Ix'foiv  laid  np.     Tlic  winter  iniirlit  he  nsefnllyeni- 
])l(iye(l  in  various  pi'eparations  for  the  jonrnev,  as  well  as  in 
mairnt'tie,  astronomical,  and  iiieteoroloirical   observations  of 
hi;,'h  interest  in  that  latitude.      I  ])ropose  that  the  expi'dition 
should  leave  the  ship  in  th(!  coin'se  of  tlu'  month  of  April, 
when  the  ice  would  present  one  hard  and  unl)roken  surface, 
over  which,  as  1  confidently  bi'lieve,  it  would  not  be  diflicult 
to  make  ^^ood  thirty  miles  per  (biy  without  any  exposure  to 
wet,  and  j.robably  without  snow-bhndiK  ss.      At  this  season, 
too,  the  ice  would  |)robably  be  stjitionary,  and  thus  the  two 
jrreat  dilbcubies  which  we  formerly  had  to  encounter  ^volll(l 
be  entirely  obviated       Itmiirhtform  a  part  of  the  plan  to}iu>h 
out  supjjbes  ill  advai   •(»  to  the  distance  of  one  luuidred  mih's, 
to  be  taken  np  on  tlie  way,  so  as  to  connnence  the  journey 
coin|)aratively  light;  and  us  the  intention  would  be  to  coni- 
])l(;te  till'  enti'rprise  in  the  course  of  the  mouth  (jf  ^Nbiy,  before 
any  disruption  of  the  ice  or  any  material  softeuiu'r  of  the  sur- 
face had  taken  j)lace,  similar  supplies  might  be  sent  out  to  the 
same  distance,  to  meet  the  party  on  their  return. 

"  If  might,  farther,  l)e  wortli  while  to  take  reindiMn"  from 
Ibinnnei'fest  in  passing,  with  the  chance  of  ki'ejting  them  alive 
during  the  winter  on  such  fiiriuaceous  food  as  the  provisinu 
of  llu>  ship  could  furnish. 

"T  will  only  add,  that  this  plan  might  be  accomplished 
without  the  ship  iucurnng  any  material  risk,  since  the  naviga- 
tion both  out  and  home  need  only  be  perfbniied  at  a  seaxm 
when  the  sea  is  very  little  encumbered  with  ice;  and,  more- 
over, an  o))portuuitv  woidd  be  afforded  durin<r  two  seasons  of 
Btrr'tching  tiir  to  the  northward  in  the  ship,  if  the  state  of  tlio 
ice  shcjuld  prove  IJivorable.     1  remaui,  ycnirs.  vSjc, 

'*  W.   I'AHIIY." 

"  Sir  Jolm  Barrow.  Burt." 

The  plan  luTti  described  is  no  doubt  an  improveniont 
ov(!r  tilt!  ono  that  failed  ;  but  ^vitllollt  ju-esuiuiiig;  loo 
much,  not  bcini;  fdt()g;(^liier  unacquuiiited  witli  'i  ship's 
navi^uting;  iiinoug;  Nvliut  is  culled  sailing-ice,  it  may  ho 
ulluwiibic  to  .suggest  another  and  u  diU'erout  plan,  auj 


."  f 


TARRY  S    POLAR    VOYAGE. 


219 


porlmps,   on   tho   wliolp,  l»'s.s   (>I))octioii!il)If.      Jr  would 
consist  of  two  sMiiill  ships  siiiiilur  to  tlicjs*^  wliicli.  uTtcr 
tlirt'c  yoiirs'  s(!rvico  in  tlui  AiitJirctic  Seas,  aro  now  cii- 
jTiiUcd  ill  till!  ico  of  the  Xortli  Polar  Soas  :   tlicy  should 
Ijc  scut  ill  tlie  <;arly  spriiiir  aloni:  the  wcsrcrii  "coast   of 
S|)it/I)criicn,  where   usualiy   uo    iiiipcdiiiiciit   exists,  as 
fill'  up   as    HO'  ;   take    every  opj)ortuiiity  of  proceediiiir 
directly  to  the  nortli,  wliere,  about  f^-J-*  Parry  has  told 
uri.  the   lai-f^e   Hoes  had  disapp^'ared,  and  tlu^  seu  tliero 
was  found  to  be  loaded  only  with  loos(%  disconnected, 
mips!!  masses  of  i(;e,  throuyli  which  ships  would  (iiid  no 
(lilliculty  in  sailins:,  thouijh  totally  unlit  for  boats  (lra<2;- 
uinii ;  and  as  this  loose    ice  was  driftiiiij;  to  tlu^  soutji- 
Wiird,  he  farther  says,  that  befoi-«»  the  middle  of  Au<;'ust; 
;i  ship  mi^rhf  have  sailed  up  to  the  latitude  of  HJ^  almost 
without  touching  a  piece  of  ic(^     It  is  not,  then,  unn^as- 
oiiablf*  to  expect,  that  beyond  that  parallel,  even  as  far 
ii<  the  Pole   itself,  tlu^   sea  would  be  free  of  ice  during; 
the  six  summer  months  of  j)erpetual  sun  throu^di  each 
(»t'  the  twenty-four  hours,  which,  with  the  aid  of  tho 
current,  w^ould  in  all  probability  destroy  and  dissipate 
the  l*olar  ict3. 

If,  then,  on  tho  return  of  Sir  John  Frankliirs  ships, 
the  screw-projieller  supplied  to  each  should  liave  been 
found  to  answer,  a  fair  opportunity  would  be  atforded  of 
(Iccidinp;  tiio  (pjostion.  The  trial"  would  soon  be  made, 
iuid.  from  the  experience  of  Parry,  would  be  mado 
without  danirer  of  loss  to  ships  or  men,  for  it  is  probable 
they  would  not  have  any  ice-bound  shores  to  contend 
with,  n^he  distance  from  llakluyt's  Headland  to  tho 
Pole  is  tiOO  ^M'oirraphical  miles,  (irantinii  tho  shij)s  to 
make  only  twenty  miles  in  twenty-four  hours  (on  tlie 
supi)()sition  of  mucli  sailing-ice  to  ^o  thr()u<j;h),  even  iii 
that  case  it  would  re(|uiro  but  a  month  to  enable  th(» 
explorer  to  put  his  foot  on  the  i)ivot  or  point  of  tho  axi.s 
on  which  tlu^  f^lobe  of  the  earth.  cLrns  ;  remain  there  a 
uioiith,  if  necessary,  to  obtain  the  sought-for  informa- 
tion, and  then,  with  a  southerly  current,  a  fortnight, 
piohably  less,  would  bring  liim  back  to  Spit/bergen. 

To  such  as  may  ventur(^  to  raise  their  feeble  objec- 
tions against  tliis,  and  other  daring  enterprises  if  not 
(it)ended  with  the  i)ros])ect  of  pn^buble  prolit,  let  theni 


1 1 

?! 
I' 


:j 


«HP 


■.  t, , 

't, 

?? 

l\ 

\ 

220 


ARCTIC    VOYAGES. 


rcccivo  tlio   answfr  irivfn  by  that  l)rav(^  old  naviirntor, 
Sir  Mai'tin  Fntbishcr,  wiifii  Jitlcmpfs  wvu-  n.  wlc  hv  1 


lis 


0\('|'V 


friends  to  dissuade  him  I'roni  eiiii2;ai,^iri^  in  the  disc 
of  a  nortliwest  passai^M^  :  "  It  is  th(^  only  thinii:  iu  tlm 
"world  that  is  left  yet  undone  whereby  a  notable  niind 
iiiif^ht  b(^  made  famous  and  fortunate^"  \Vv  may  still 
say,  " 'I'he  North  Pole  is  th«i  only  thin^^  in  the  wmil 
about  which  wo  know  notliinijj;  and  that  want  of  all 
knowledge  oufiht  to  ojjerate  as  a  spur  to  adopt  the 
means  of  wij)in^  away  that  stain  of  ignorance  from  tliis 
enliglitened  sige." 

Hut  there  are  otliers  besides  utilitarians  tiiat  mnko 
objections  to  inquiries  of  *liis  nature,  on  tin-  scoi'e  nt" 
'  religious  pi'ejudices,  and  will  say  tliat  (lod  never  intend- 
ed us  to  scrutinize  places  against  wlii(d)  lie  hjid  s(^t  hi, 
bar)'i(  r.  ^Phus  the  l\ev.  L(!wis  Way,  the  wealthy  jjio- 
])i'iefor  of  Slansted,  and  so  stanch  an  advocate  lor  tin; 
conversion  of  tlie  Jews  that  lie  made  a  pilgiimayc  to 
.lerusalem  witli  tliat  object  in  "iew — this  revei'end  ge:i- 
tlennm  one  day  said  to  a  friend,  "  I  know  Sir  Joseph 
IJanks  very  well,  and  he  was  a  good  friend  of  mine, 
though  he  used  to  joke  with  me  sometimes  about  iii\ 
endeavor  to  convcM't  tlu;  Jews:   but  I  told  liim  that  niv 


sclieme  was,  at  any  rate,  a  much  AVisei"  one  than  his* 
lie  was  tryiiiii;  to  send  ships  to  tlu;  North  Pole,  which 
it  was  cl(>ar(Jod  never  int(Hided,  wliil(»  th(^  conversion  ol" 
the  Jews  was  iin  ev(Mit  which  we  all  know  was  to  lie 


)rouL;lit  al)out  som(>  time  or 


otl 


ler, 


'^riiis  may  l.e  looked  upon,  as  doubtless  Sir  Jos('])h 
I'an'  looked  upon  it,  as  sheer  nonsenso.  Every  in- 
t(d'  .  -nt  mind  must  be  satisfuMl  that,  the  more  closely 
W(^  nv(>stigate  the  works  of  creation,  the  more,  as  ra- 
tional beings,  we  must  be  convinced  that  nothing  tln'reiii 
has  been  miide  in  viiin,  nor  a\  ithout  a  pr«<conceive(l  and 
settlecl  design,  the  linished  work  of  a  IxMieficiMit  and 
Almighty  Power:  and  if  iMr.  Lewis  Way  had  leinl- 
lected  a  passage  in  tlm  most  ancient  record  of  his  favoi- 
ite  Jews.  li(>  wdulil  recollect  his  having  I'oimd  ihcrriii 
thfit  (Jod  gave  to  man  "  dominioii  over  till  the  earth,"' 
and  made  no  exception  of  the  North  Pole. 

'^riie  Ivoyid  Society,  howev(>r.  and  the  ("ommissiotiers 
of  Longitude,  were  less  scrupulous  on  the  subject.     To 


% 


PARRY  S    POLAR   VOYAGE. 


221 


fMiiinir;i,ut'  'i\  visit  tf)  tlif  Nortli  Pole,  they  rnconnnondiid 
f(i  his  iMiijt'sty  ill  council  to  pass  nn  onir;-  m'iuitiii'-  tlm 
j);i\  iiiniit  ot"  11  reward  ot"  livt^  tiiousinid  pounds  *  <  tlio 
titst  sliip  that  shall  approacli  within  om^  drirrcc  of  tho 
Ndrth  l*olc.  'J'his  order  is  not  to  he  considered  as 
!iii'i-(dy  an  inducement  lor  niakiiii:  the  attempt,  i)Ut 
chirtly  to  Pianifest  their  opinion  ot'  tln^  value  ot'  the 
sclienie.  It  is  pretty  well  understood  that  I'ritisli  naval 
ollicers,  who,  like  l*arrv,  J-'ranUlin,  and  others,  emhark 
oil  arduous  and  ha/.ardous  enterprises  ot'  this  nature, 
arc  inlluenced  not  so  much  hy  motives  ot'  pecuniary 
rewards  as  hy  the  hope  ot'  contril)Utin<r,  liy  their  exer- 
tiiiiis,  to  the  enlavtrement  ot"  kn()wledi:e  and  science  ; 
their  additional  object,  and  that  a  laudal.'je  one,  heinj;  the 
nctjuiremeiit  of  present  reputation  and  future  fame. 

"  Fjitiic  is  tlic  8i)ur  that  tin-  clcfir  s])irit  ilotli  raise 
('I'liat  last  inlirmity  ot'iKihlc  luiinls) 
To  !-coni  dcli^lits  and  live  laborious  days." 

Dr.  .lohnson  said  that  the  man  who  had  seen  the 
L'vciit  wall  of  China  miyht  be  considered  as  sheddiiiii  a 
luster  on  his  ^rand-children.  Ihit  wjiat  is  the  wall  of 
('liina  ?  which  has  not  only  been  seen  by  Ijord  Macart- 
ney and  his  piuty,  but  scaled,  and  its  broad  parapet  trod- 
(|t!i  on,  by  thein.  With  how  much  more  brilliant  u 
luster  would  tliis  preat  moralist  have  decorated  tho 
'lescendants  of  that  man  who  liiid  stood  on  the  ])ivot 
whereon  tliis  filobe  of  ours  forever  turns,  and  hoisted 
tile  P.ritisli  llat:  on  the  most  remarkable  spot  on  tho 
cMitirs  surface  I  '^Piie  wall  of  China  may  be  seen  any 
iliiy ;  and  any  one,  without  the  least  dil'ficulty,  iniiiht 
obtain  a  view  of  it  by  a  tri|)  in  one  of  our  yachts  to  tho 
(iulf  of  Fieatunsx.  into  whicli  it  descends  and  terminates. 

1\)  describe  what  a  visitor  to  the  Pole  miiiht  obtain  in 
tlie  way  of  scieiict\  it  can  only  be  said,  in  our  present 
state  of  iijnorance,  that  tiie  wholes  Held  would  be;  o))en  to 
liiiii :  every  tliinij;  would  bo  iiov»d.  and  that  aloiu^  would 
rouse  his  attentive  faculties.  Kst  lin/ninutii  iidtnrn  nori- 
liil'is  (ir'iiht.  n'lie  dil'ticulties  that  would  occur  may  le, 
iip|)reciated  at  home,  but  they  will  be  iireater  or  less  ac- 
cnrdintr  to  circumstances,  of  which  W(^  yet  know  noth- 
iiii: ".  that  is,  whether  the  Pole  lie  covered  with  an  open 
sea,  an  icy  sea,  or  by  land  :  and  which  of  the  three  would 


i     t 


'1 


II 


i    ; 


I     ^ 


lU 


'    { 


> , 


222 


ARCTIC    VOYAGES'. 


rivato  tlio  (rrofitcvst  (lifficiiltios  in  tlio  way  of  arfitiirinir 
iiilui-iiiiitiou  .'  Ill  iill  i-('S|)('cts  an  open  sea  would  iippcjir 
to  ho  tlio  most  disadvantauoons.  in  tlio  first  placo.  it 
would,  in  all  protiability,  l)o  so  t\f('\)  that  tlio  shi|)  coiiM 
not  anclntr,  or  do(>|)  enouiih  not  to  admit  ot'  lior  kocpin^r 
stoadily  Ikt  place  tor  makiiiii;  accurate  oi)seiTations :  in 
tlic!  next,  hy  her  niovina;  ahont,  her  commander  would 
very  speedily  find  out  tliat,  as  every  meridian  niu'^t  In- 
in  the  dire(;tion  ot"  soutii.  he  liad  lost  that  on  which  he 
laid  approached  the  l*ol(j,  and,  consefpiently,  would  iit^ 
at  a  loss  to  shape  his  coni'sc;  jiomeward.  'J'he  settling' 
of  this  point  will  natm'ally  sui:u;est  itstdt"  as  first  amoa:; 
the  many  novel  plienomena  which  will  aiTest  his  atten- 
tion, and  the  t'ollowing  observations  will  probably  occur 
to  him. 

Jn  th«!  first  place,  it  will  be  obvious  that  tlie  time  (if 
day — or,  rather,  of  tln^  twenty-four  hours — would  no 
Ioniser  lie  marked  by  any  apjiarent  chansfo  in  the  altitude 
of  the  sun  above  the  hori/on,  because,  to  an  observer  at 
tlm  J*ole,  no  such  clian<ie  would  take  place,  except  to 
the  small  amount  of  tli(!  daily  chaiijue  of  decliuation. 
Thus,  not  only  to  the  eye,  but  also  for  the  ])ractical  piir- 
])ose  of  olitainiiiii;  tln^  tinio  by  astronomicid  observation. 
tin;  siu  would  appear  throujihout  the  twenty-four  liouis 
neither  to  ris«^  nor  fall,  but  to  describe  a  circle  round  tlus 
heavens  jiarallel  to  tlio  hori/on.  It  follows  that  this 
mode  of  obtaininjj;  tiu':  time  would  utterly  fail;  and,  in- 
deed, however  startlinj;  the  fact  may  seem,  it  may  nev- 
ertheless bo  asserted  with  truth,  that  there  would  no 
lonj[2;er  bo  any  such  thin<r,  strictly  speakiui:;,  as  apparent 
lime  at  all.  This  will  appear  clear  by  consideriiiii  thiit 
ajiparent  time  nders  only  to  tlu»  particular  meridian  on 
wliicli  an  obsei'ver  happcMis  to  la*  placed,  and  is  mai'kcd 
and  determined  only  by  the  distance  of  the  sun  or  other 
lieavenly  body  from  that  meridian.  An  observer  at  the 
I'ole  beinn  on  no  one  meridian,  but  at  the  point  wheio 
all  meridiiins  meet,  ajiparent  tinu!  has  to  liim  no  longer 
either  existence  or  meaninj;. 

lieforc!  our  naviiiators  entered  upon  this  oxjieditioa, 
their  attention  was  naturally  directed  to  the  best,  and, 
indeed,  only  certain  method  of  insuring  their  return  from 
the  l*ole  it)i.  (lie   r/iiht.  )iu  r'ldian.     Two  methods,  and, 


I 


TARRY  ri    POLAR    VOYA(;E. 


\vt'  ht'lievj',  only  two,  pi'csciit  tliciHsclvt's  foi-  this  ]iur- 
piisc  ;  tlio  one  hfiiii;  by  iho  coiiipiiss.  tlio  other  by  iiiciiiis 
III' chroiioinctrrs.  From  tlic  obscrviifictiis  iilrcinly  iii;i(lo 
ill  the  Arctic  rcjiiijiis,  i»^  may  !)(•  considered  as  <'eitirm 
that,  at  tlie  |*ole,  the  mauiietic  lieedii^  would  freely  tiav- 
erse.  and  llie  comj)ass  i-emain  an  etlicient  practical  in- 
strument;  i'or  as  it  is  to  tiie  nifii^mhc  pole,  and  not  to 
the  pole  ot"  tlie  eartli.  that  tlio  needle  is  directed,  and  as 
till'  dip  of  the  needle  only  ar  lonnts  to  H-J-  '2'2'  at  the  iiuist 
iinitherly  j)oint  yet  reached,  it  is  probable  tliat  tiie  hor- 
i/ontal  or  directiv(*  force;  of  the  needle  would  contimio 
strong  and  efficient  at  tho  Pol  •,  and,  consecjuently,  that 
the  magnetic  hearing  of  any  |)oint  on  the  globe  might  bo 
jHcurately  obtaiiied  by  it.  Indeed,  none  of  tin;  singular 
jihenomena  relating  to  tho  magnetic  needle  observed  by 
I'ai'ry  on  his  former  voyage^  through  J»arrow's  Strait, 
such  as  the  north  end  of  tin^  needb;  pointing  due  soutli, 
;nid  then  southeast,  and  the  entire^  uselessness  of  tho 
foMipasses,  owing  to  the  iron  in  tlie  ship  proving  stron- 
iier  than  tho  directive  power  of  tlio  needle,  were  to  be 
anticipated  on  reaching  the  j)ole  of  tlic!  earth.  For  tho 
siiin(«  reason,  it  was  not  to  bo  expected  that  tho  achicno- 
Micnt  since  performed  !>y  his  gallant  companion,  .lames 
Ivoss,  of  actually  planting  tin;  Britisli  flag  on  tin;  magnet- 
ic Pole,  could  now  be  accom|)lished.  as  it  was  already 
known  tliat  tin*  point  upon  tin;  oartlTs  suH'aco  which  is 
so  designated  lay  in  a  nmch  iowei-  latitude. 

T\w  other  method  of  insuring  the  return  of  our  trav- 
elers upon  the  right  meridian,  nanjely,  by  means  of 
chronometers,  was  ono  whicii  rocjuired  some  considera- 
tion. It  is  obvious  that,  to  an  ol)server  standing  upon  tho 
Pole,  the  sun  would,  at  tho  precise  monnMit  of  appai-ent 
noon  at  any  given  i)lace,  appear  to  tlu;  observer  exactly 
ill  tho  direction  of  that  place,  and  that  cons(H|uently  this, 
us  ascertained  by  chronometers,  would  prove  an  uner- 
ring guide  as  to  the  right  direction.  Hut  in  the;  ordina- 
ry mode  of  marking  the;  dial-plates  of  watclios,  fiom  ono 
hour  to  twelve  only,  there  was  reason  to  appr»'hend  that 
tlie  u-ronii:  twel-. o  o'clock  might  be  taken,  under  circum- 
stances of  constant  sunshine,  and  without  any  change  in 
the  altitude  of  that  lumiiiary  to  distinguish  day  from 
night.     To  avoid  the  jio.-^sibility  of  this  mistake,  tlu^  pro- 


f . 


1' 


221 


ARCTIC    VOYAGEri. 


I,(.i 


!i!.ll 


'\ 


1    . 


i  i 


t 

li,i 


rfiiition  wiH  tukcMi  of  coiistructirii;  chrotioiiH'tors  (cucli 
oll'uH'V  ciinyiiii;  one  in  liis  pockcjt)  having  tlii^  diiil-pliUcs 
marked  willi  iwfnfy-toiir  iioiirs,  and  tlio  liour-liand  nmk- 
iny  only  one  rnvolutiou  in  that  jHiriod.  Tluis,  Avhcncvcr 
tlio  clirononioters  indicat«Ml  apparent  noon  at  (ireenwich, 
the  sun  would  he  exactly  owv  the  meridian  of  that  place, 
and  so  of  any  other  |)hicu  of  known  loui^itudo  ;  for  iii- 
stanco,  the  harbor  wluuv*  our  truvt^hn-s  had  left  their 
ship,  and  to  which  th»'y  desired  to  return. 

In  visitiiiff  a  part  of  the  gloix!  on  wliicli  the  foot  of 
man  has  never  befoi'e  troddtui,  it  is  impossihU;  to  say 
what  l)(Mietils  may  accrut!  to  scienc«! ;  hut  in  the  enter- 
prise to  which  we-  are  now  alluding,  there  is  one  object 
of  the  very  highest  scientitic;  interest  which  might  be  at- 
tained by  traveling  to  tlu^  Pole,  nauudy,  the  measure- 
ment of  a  (iegre(!  of  tlu;  nuM'idiaii  counnencing  from  the. 
Pole  itself.  Many  readers  of  tiiis  narrative  are  aware 
tliat  the  form  of  the  globe  has  long  since  been  siscertain- 
od  to  bo  that  of  an  oblate  s{)heroid,  having  its  ecpiatoriiti 
diameter  considerably  long(n'  than  the  polar;  in  moi(? 
popular  language,  that  the  earth  is  llattened  at  the  poles  ; 
hut  it  still  remains  a  mattJU'  of  doubt  in  ivhat  dei>r(r, 
this  (lattening  exists  ;  and  as  no  method  of  ascertaining 
this  is  so  conclusive  as  the  actual  measureuient  of  a  me- 
ridian at  the  l*ole  and  at  the  Kcpiator,  this  objc  ct  alone 
would  well  repay  any  efliirt  that  might  be  made  to  effect 
it;  even  if  a  sutfu;ient  length  of  lino  could  be  measured 
in  one  of  tin;  meridians  that  are  clustered  on  the  Pole, 
the  difficulty  of  preserving  it  W(nild  require  the  most 
rigid  attention. 

Tile  swinging  of  a  pendulum  is  perhaps  a  less  accu- 
i'at(i  iiH^thod  of  obtaining  the  tdlipticity  of  the  earth,  but 
it  is  th(i  operation  of  a  single  j)erson,  whereas  the  actual 
measurement  of  the  meriihan  linc^  recpiires  several ;  and 
as  an  increase  of  gravitation  takes  place  from  the  Equa- 
tor to  the  J'ole,  the  latter  mak«'S  it  most  desirable  that 
the  reipiisite  observations  should  be  made  there,  or  as 
near  to  it  as  possible  ;  but  a  ship  on  an  open  or  icy  sea 
would  not  answer.* 

The  tides  at  tlio  Pole  would  be  an  interesting  subject 

*  Till"  rciuiiT  i."  rcfrn'rcd  to  X\\o  pinTnil  ])orti()ns  of  this  voluintjfortlii; 
pouduluin  oljservutious  tlutt  havu  been  niude  und  hcvciii  givou. 


PARUY'rf    POLAK    VOVAGH. 


1.)  oxnn.ino  ;  bnf  ir  .Iops  not  npprnv  fl.i.t  any  ronfrivunro 
<"'  ""  ''pen  sra.  („•  a  s.-a  of  ice,  <.„„1,1  ho  made  use,  of  t., 
jisccrtam  the  n.s(^  and  lall. 

.Mf.^netisM,   atinospherical  eleeM-icitv,  and  the  A.ironi 

i  olaris,  and  all  otlier  i.ioteerolu^ic-al  ..iVservatiu.is,  would 

allord  s(;oi)(!  etiouirh  on  hoard  shi|). 

Sliould  land    however  sn.all  tho  portion,  ho  iomu\  al, 

nr  near  the  Pole,  all  tlie  various  ohsr-rvations  would  he 
n.nducted  t«  a  suecesslul  issue.      It  n.av  be   pn-sunn-d 

liMt  any  surh  land  will  not  he  niounlai.ious.  as  .10  i.-e- 
l).T-s  are  ever  sent  down  from  that  cp.arter,  tlu'se  n.ass- 
rs  havn.ir  he.Mi  ascertained  as  produ.-ts  of  i^hieiers  on  the 
sides  and  valleys  ot  li.^h  nio.u.tains,  as  iu  SpitzheP'en 
jind  (.reenland.     On  a  piece  of  land  t!u>  pend.dun,  n.i.v 
hr  sw.ui.ir,  and  the  rise,  fall,  an.j  direction  of  the  tides 
observed.      Jt  would  also  he  interesting  to  (>xan.ine  into 
the  natun,  ot  the  soil,  and  its  ve-etahle  pro.luctions  ;  tlu, 
•l.spos.t.on  ot  the  strata,  and  the  nun.M-al  prod.u-,ts,  if  any  ; 
;ii.d  d  the  la.id  he  ot  a  tolerable  extcM.t,  a  meridional  rlis^ 
tiuice  may  he  measured.     Other  matt.Ts  of  interest  ard 
ii;.v.'lty  would  occur  to  a  scientific  and  skillful  observer, 
ihese  are  mere  speculations,  tin-own  out  at  random,  hut 
iiiity  serve,  among  other  suggestions,  as  objects  of  atten- 
tion. •' 

Captain  8h-  Edward  Pany  havi.ig  now  concluded  his 
fiith  voyng,,  „,to  the  Arctic  regions,  in  four  of  wliich  ho 
fonmianded,  and  was  second  in  the  otln-r,  a.id  there  be- 
lli- no  tarthor  attempt  iu  contemplation  at  the  conclusion 
ot  the  last  voyage  to  continue  the  s.-airh,  he  deemed  it 
expedient  to  close  his  honorable  and  useful  naval  career 
iif  l.-;ist  m  sea-gomg  ships.  It  may,  th.-refore,  not  b..  out 
ot  place  here  to  put  on  record  u  memorandum  of  the 
vaiuiible  services  rendered  to  his  countrv  in  various  sit- 
•'iitions,  and  to  tin,  navy  in  particular,  with  whose  hitor- 
ests  \w  IS  still  connected. 

It  has  been  stated,  in  the  first  Arctic  voya-e,  in  what 
"'■inner  he  was  introduced  iiilo  that  line  of  service,  by 
•"■lug  selected  to  command  one  of  the  discovery  ships. 

l:]l;j.  The  Alexander,  a.  lieafenMut  commaii.lin-.  beia-  sec- 

Olid  to  ( oiiuiKiiidcr  Koss. 
l.'SH).  The  [kM'la.-Appniutcd  ms  lirutenant  to  conimnnd  her, 
'ind  as  cuiuiuauder  of  the  expedition  :  two  \vtirs 
1)  •'         ' 


1  ; 


ir; 


h 


"..i 


ni 


/^  ^w  VJ 


ARCTIC    VOYAfiHS. 


lV,-20,  'I'll.-  I'nrv 


piMim 


Ir.l 


lis  rain  III  mil 


li,l 


(•ii[)t;iiii  ill  .NtivfiiilM  r,  l.'l'Jl. 


//'/•,   !lll(l   to   til 

Iviiucfcl  to  tlif   r 


ink  i>[ 


.1!V:;;J.   Acting,'   liydrou'i-iipli.T  to  tlir    Admiralty,  102:3,   in  ih 


ni( 


nil  ol'  (';i|il;iiii   I  liii'd,  dcccMsi-d. 


l!!-Jl.    Ilrcl;!. —  \|)|>oiii1rd    iis   ciiptiUll   (tlioili,dl   only   U   hln(i|ij 
iiiid  :is  coiiiliiiilidcr  oltlif*  rxpcditioii. 
Acting'    hyilroLTiiplifr,    sfcond    iippointiiit'iit,    tlx;    vu- 
ciiiicy  not  liM\  iiii,'  Iicimi  lillcd  ii|). 
}Pr2i\.   Ajipointrd  to  the  coiiiniiind  ul'  tiio  Ilecla,  and  of  th" 

<'\|)('dilioii  toward  tli(>  North  Pole. 
ll')27 .  Tliii'd  a|)|)oiiitmciif  as  iiydroirra|thci',  and  roiitiniird  tu 
art  until  May.  Ill','!>:  and  in  tlio  same  yaw  rcccivid 
tiif  lioiior  ol  kni;,ditliood.      l{csii:ii(Ml  the  silualion  (it 
liydroi:ra|)lii'r,  and  Captain  Ik'aulinl  uppuiutt'd,  wlio 
still  holds  it. 
IfJO!'.   Went   out   to   N<'w  South  Wales  as   roinmissioucr  to 
the   \ustialian  .\i:firiiltm'al  Compajiy,  hy  pt'i-iiiis>iiiii 
of  the  Admiralty,  and  rt'tiinii'd  in  Novcniltrr,  iiril. 
Ji^li.'i.   Assistant    i'oor-liiw  ('oinmissi(»ii('r  in  Norliilk;   hut  lii> 

health  lailiiii:,  laid  liy  tor  one  year. 
18;}?.  Appointed  to  or;:aiii/,e  the  I'ackct  Sen'ice,  then  tnuis- 

I'erred  to  the    •■dmiralty. 

lVil\7.  Aitpoinled  ('ontniller  of  .St(^am  Macliiiiory,  in  wliii  h 

important  situation  he  still  remains;  a  nituafion  th.it 

re<|uires  all  that  talent  and  assiduous  attention  whii  h 

he  is  kiioun  to  possess,  and  which  it  is  to  lie  hii]ii(i 

he  may  loni,'  continue  to  hold,  to  his  own  .satistaction, 

•And  for  the  lienelit  of  the  piililic  service. 

The  charac-tcr  and  ('(nidiict  of  Sir  Edward  Piii'iy  as  a 

captain  in  coniMiund  of  a  ship  ol"  war  inis  hcon  fully  <'\- 

liihited  ill  the  present  narrative,  ahriducd  as  it  is  :   i)roiiipt 

in  ditlic'ulty,  cool   in   daiiuor,  iertile  in   cxpediiMits,  and 

rich  iu  resources,  \w  was  never  unpi'epared  in  the  lioiir 

of  need;   to  the  people   undtn'  liis  charii;<'.  lie  Avas  kind. 

considerate,  and  attentive,  and  while  rigidly  exactiiii,^  the 

])erfonnance  oftlieir  duties,  was  ever  studious  to  adiniii- 

isler  to  their  conilorts  and  tlieir  welfare,  instructing!:  them 

that  these  heiielits  could  only  ho  iiccpiircMl  and  pi'cserved 

})V  a  strict  ohe(lienc<>  to  coiniiiand,  steady  ,i:ooil  coutluct. 

and  due  reuard  to  tlu^  duties  t)f  religion. 

If  an  ol'licer  who  has  accompanied  Captain  I'arry  in 
all  his  Arctic,  and  Polar  voyaues  were  j)assed  over  ill  si- 
lence, it  would  |)roperly  \h'  considered  as  a  dei-elK  tir»ii  ol' 
justice  and  of  duty  in  the  writer  of  this  muTutive.     Th.o 


.■(■ 


PAKUY  rf    I'ULAR    V()V.\(if:. 


o.>7 


tullnwiiiir  nu'inoriiiidiim  of  ( 'iipliilii  SirJanics  FJoss's  scr- 
\i(<'s  will  put  the  reader  in  possession  ul'  jiii  aljstruct  of 
\\  liiit  lie  lias  performed  : 

III    \pril,   li;|-,',  li(>  eiitei'cd  the  Tiavv. 

j'^'    r  Volunteer  lirst  class,  iiiidshipniaii,  and  mate  with  Cm- 
,,,  .>    I      iiiandf-r  itoss. 

i;:i:!.      Admn-alty  niid^liipiiiaii  in  the  Isal.rlJi,  m  Cotmnaiider 

Ross's  veyai.'e  of  discovery  to  the    \  relic  Seas, 
l;:il>,  >  Admiralty  iiiidshi|)maa  in  the  llecla  in  Captain  I'ar- 
);;-.'l).  (      ry's  (ir.-t  voy.i-e  of  discoverv  to  the  Arctic  Se;is. 

S  Admiralty  midshipman  in  the  Vnrv  in  Ciiptain  rarrv's 
second  voy;i;.'e  of.liscovery  to  the   \rctic.Seas;    was 
imide  lienteniint,  -Jiiih  Dei'emiin-,  | ;;■,>•,'. 
|,,.,,  C   Lieatenant  in  the  Fury,  Captain  Hoppn.  ..  .'..ird  voy- 
i;i'.-)!)       '^r''  ".*  ^'"1"'''"  l':ii-|-y.     'J"o  tlraw  charts  and  m.ako 


l"0 


17.  I'lrst  heutenant  in  the  Hecla,  Captain  i'airy;  accom- 
Itanied  him  ie.  command  of  the  second  luiat  in  jjis 
attempt  to  reach  the  North  I'ole.  rromoled  uu 
his  return,  f!lh  Novenilter,  l;!-:»7. 

2!>    Hn  private  steam-vessel  Victory. 

>      VUu  tlu!   1st  of  .)(me,  I!;:n.  planted  the  rnion-jack  (.ii 

i:J.  )  the  .North  .Mai:netic  Pole.  ( )n  his  return,  presented 
by  the  Colle;,^,.  ,,f  Arms  with  an  addition  lo  the  anus 
of  Ko.ss,  representini,'  the  Hair  tlvin,:,^  on  the  Ma:,'- 
iietic  rolt>,  with  additional  cre>t,  "on  a  rock,  "i 
ll;i::-slatV  erect,  thereon  hoi>ted  the  rnion-jack.  in- 
scrihed  with  the  date,  1st  .June,  i;):il." 
li;:il.  IVomoted  to  the  rank  of  ca[)t:iiii,  ■2r,\\i  Octolier,  K!;i }. 
I ;;;!.').     Kmployed  makini:  m;ii,'netic  oliservatiftns  preparatory 

_  to  commenciiii.' the  ni;i;/:.etic  survev  of  I'.n-l.iiid.    " 
I'V-iC).     Ca|)taiii  in  thi>  ship  comiriissioned  hv  the    \dmiraltv, 

sent  in  seio-ch  of  the  missinj,'  wlrders,  in  the  dejttli 

of  wintei-." 
\'!.''n'  U'"'P'"y<'d,  at  the  desire  of  the  Lords  Commissioners 
Jo;io.  5      ol  the  Admiralty,  in  determiuinL'  the  \ariati(ui  of 

the  compass  on  all  parts  of  the  coast  (.f  (Jreat  lirit- 

■  On  a  rci)n's..|itatioii  from  Hull  tliat  clrvni  wIimIc  sliij.s  i.n.l  six-  hun- 
iliv.l  111.  u  wvrc  1,  II  111  thr  icr  Mri.l  ill  ,i„ii-..r  of  ]M.ri^liiii-.  and  nTiui-tia" 
Il.r  A.lminilry  r...  s.n.l  out  ivlicf,  ('Mptain  .laiurs  Ross  voliii.tcrrr,!  to  "i> 
uut  in  tlip  (i.'ptli  ol  winrn-,  „ii(l  the  three  heutriiNiit-,  Crozier,  iniiiiin  ami 
Umiiiaimey  with  thr  three  mates,  .lesse,  liuehan,  ai„l  .iojm  .<mith,' aM,l 
Mr.  llall.'tt,  .'lerk  in  <'har-e,  vohuit.'.Te,!  to  join  him.  lie  hoisted  lii.  jieu- 
iiaiir  on  tile  L'l>t  ot  l)erei.i'ner,  and  after  a  storiiiv  vovaire  arriveil  in  Da- 
VI- s  .-trait  when  lie  loiind  nine  of  the  lui.-sin- ships  were  livfhat  time  ii» 
l-.llu'land.  that  tlie  tenth  wa>    released    ,.„d    on    lier   |ia.-sa-e.'aiid  the  elev. 

ciilh  wa^  probably  lust,  as  sojne  of  1i,t  <-asks  had  lii.'.ai  lucRed  up  m  ^eu 


/! 


;i 


f  f 


li: 


I. 


M 


(  i'  I       ' 


Auc'i'ic  v«»v\i;i;h. 


;ilii,  Mini  llii-  "I'lii'iiil  iirc'iii'lic  siii'\'<'V  lur  (li'tiTiirfi- 
ill::  1 1 II I  III  n  III  III  I  he  tiiiii'  nt  r(|ii;il  v  ;ii'i:iliiiii,  ili|i.  iiiid 
iiilcii-il\ .  ill  iniijiiiiclioii  Willi  rinli'SMir  IJmmI,  ('ii|. 
unci  S.ilillic.  ;ili(l  l'lnrc'--.(ir  rililli|»s,  ill  till'  li'i|iir,| 
ol   llir    I'l  il  i-ll     \<>iiri;il|i>n. 

Ami  ImmIv,  riuiii  i:;:i:Mo  I;:  |:{,  Ciiptiiiii  II.  M.S.  i;n.. 

Iiii-.  ill  (  i>iiiiii:iimI  111' the    \ iil.'irct ic  i;\|H'ililiiiii. 
|:tlll    M.'in  ll,    I  :;  I  I,   I'l'criM'il    ihc   liniinr  nl'  kllijllllnnil. 

'.•mil  .hiiir.   I:;  I  I.  linn.  I).  C.  1...  Ovliinl. 

I{i'(ri\ril  ;.'n!i|  li|i'il;ils  i 'I'  (  ici  il;i;i[i||  icill  Si  iiii  ■!  ii  •>  iit 
KiiLil.'iiiil  mill  III  I'  laiK  I'. 
It  will  lie  seen  tliiil  .M  f.  .1  iiiin's  (iiuw  Sir. limit's)  Kh^s 
liiis  risen  liy  rc^iiliif  ui'iiiiiiliiMi  iVnm  tin'  Inwcsl  in  ||ii> 
Iniilicst  liink  in  his  pntt'cssiini.  iiiid  tu  tin*  linnurs  In-  imw 
<Miji>vs.  I»v  liis  iiiildiit i'.:;il)lt'  /.ciil.  scll-liiii^lit  iiliililifs,  ainl 
(lili^iMici*.  It  is  dill'  to  liiiii.  tlit'Cft'iin',  in  tiilxiii^  l(>;i\n 
ol'  Ills  Arctic  hilini's.  ill  tilt'  siiiiif  tiiiif  with  his  rrit'ml  iiirl 
I'tmiiiiiiiitliiii;  iillicfr  Sir  I'iilwiinl  I'lirry.tt)  fxpit'ss  ;i  cmi- 
victitHi.  in  cttiiiiiitni  with  ihiit  nl'  his  hrnthfr  itllici'rs  umI 
jissdciiitt's,  t hilt  few  iiicn  ptisscss,  in  ii  nmrt'  t'liiinciit  ili  ■ 
urcf.  tilt'  t|iiiilitit's  ri'ijuiri'il  in  iimst  iiriliimis  iiltcMipl-. 
'I'll  il  slrti'i^  iiml  \  ii^Kitiiis  coiisiitiit  UMI.  iiihI  linilily  pnw- 
fis  III' ntitirilinin  y  kiml.  .Iiiint's  Kuss  luiitcs  iin  iinli'iil  Imn 
(•!'  t'litcrprisc.  ii  (ii'tt'nniiu'd  pcrsfvcriinct'  in  thf  iiliiim- 
niiMit  tif  his  iilijrt  t,  iiinl  ii  i  liinl  iiniliiiintt'il  hy  ii>lliciill\ 
tir  iliini^t'r.  Tu  these  i|iiiirnies  iniist  lie  inMeil  lh;il  ml- 
\iiiici'ineiit  in  iiii\  i':,;it  inn.  iistniiiiiiiiy.  iiiitin'iil  histnry.  iii,(| 
iillier  liiiiiiches  III'  science  which  lew  iiiiviil  t»riict'is  ciin 
liiiiisl  el',  lint  which  were  such  ;is  litled  him  pecnliiirly  tnr 
selection  ti»  the  ciimiiiiiiid  nt' the  recent  Antiirctic  l-lNpe- 
ditinii.  I'tir  the  results  el'  which,  t'l'tmi  his  |)en,  piiliFK'  e\- 
peetijtion  is  mure  than  iisiuilly  ulive. 


i  I 


CAPTAIV    JOIIV    FKANKUV. 


en  A I 'Ti:  II  X, 

lHi:»_>j()_>ji_:;j.j. 


S'.irra/lrr  of  >r  Jounn  ,,  I,,  Ihr  Slnn-r^  of  H,r   1>nl„r  Srn        ]W 
I  \lll-(lltl()ll. 

TiiM  cxprdiii,,!!,  iitnl.T  flip  (oMimiuKl  (.(■  CnrMriiiiiulcr 
(now    (';i|)liiiii    Sir  . I., 111.)   |."n,„|J,M,  |,„s    ih,|    .„,!v  iiddcl 
^HMlly  lo  tlui  iir(»-rii|)liy,  ucolnnv,  1,11(1    iiiitiiiar  liish.ry 
'•I  lliiil  ix.iliuii  (,f  tlii^  Murthcni  cunsf  of  Nc.rtli  Aincricii 
witliii)   tln'  Arctic    rriiiuiis,  lint    inorc   cs|.("ci;illv  to  tliaf, 
mIiicIi  Noidns  on  the  suiitlicni  slinccs  nf  ih,.  rohir  Sc;i ; 
■r.\A  liiis  ills.,  cuiitriliiitt'd  iiir-cly  tu,  idid  (inuly  rstfil.lisli- 
'd.   tliiit    cstmi!il(^    of  the    plivsicMl.    iiicntal,   and    moral 
'  !i;iiactci-  of  I'.ritisli   scanu-ii  --c(|iially  ^ood  when   scrv- 
M)U  on  shore  as  allnat  — wlii(di  we  Ki'i-lishuKui   had  loiii,^ 
l"iin.'d,  and  of  whi<di  we  are  jnstiv  proud.      it  has  also 
^ii|.plied  trails  of  (diaracler,  and  of  the  physical  consti- 
inlion  of  the  va.  .oils  native  trihes. 
••■|'l":  iiarrativ,.  ,,f  ('.•ipi;,!,,   ri;mkliii"  (||„.  urilrr  is  hnv 

'"y  '"-'  l'""i  liMMsrlf)  -..Mlds  aaolhri-  tn  tl,r  inaiiv  splrn.lid 

I'Vur.U  o(    III.-  eiltrrpn,,.,  /,.;,!,  aild  enei-v  nf  liritisl,  sr;un..a 
—"'    '''■■!'    <'""'    i""d    iiitrcpi.l    cniidiict    wiiicli    iM'V.T   for^^iike.s 
lli'Mii  on  onasiniis  (li..  most  tryiii-— lli.il  ni.sli.dxn,  const^nKA- 
:hhI    prrseveraiice    in   siliialioiis   the   most  ardnoiis,   the  most 
'li-liv-siiiL.'.  and  soinetimi's  the    inos)   hopeless  that  can  l.cfdl 
ii'iniaii   lM-Im:s;  and    it    liiniislies  a  heaiilifnl   exanipl.'   (,f  ii„, 
iniiiiipliol  mental  and  moral  eiieri:v  over  mere  I. rule  slreictli 
';i""';."npl.-  fi,'!  that  out  of  lifte.'.n  individuals  inured  fmni 
'ii''n;  l.irtli   to  c.Id.   tiiil-,,,.,  mid    hmi-.-r,    no   less   than    l.'n 
in.ilive   landsmen)   ueiv  s(.  snhdne.l   hv  tli<'  ai.'-ravation  of 
'.!■-'•   cmIs   to   wliieh    thev    had    he(yi    iKiliitnated    as    to    -ivo 
lli''niselves  np  to  inditVerence,  insiil)ordinali(.n,  and  d.-spair, 
:iNd.  tinally,  to  sink  down  and  die.  while  of  live  l^-ifi,^li  ^ea- 
I'l'Mi   imaeenstomed    I,,  ilie   severity  of  ih,.  elitnate,   and   tlio 
l''>'Uliips   attendin-    it.   onr   only   tell,   and    that  one    hy   th(^ 
ui'iiderous  hand  oi  an  assassin.     A  li-lit.  bnovunt   heart    u 


;    i 


ViMO 


AiMTtt;  vovA«a:H. 


ti 


riillllilriii'i'   III   tlli'ir  own    iiiiwrl'^,   sii  |>|  iiil'lrt  I   li\   ;i  Mini   I'rli.it 


oil   .'I    IIH'lI'lll 


I    I' 


II  l\  llll'IMC,    IH'\  (■{■    U||(  I' 


lull 


k   tl 


lire 


H'lll.    Mill'    .|||. 


Iiiril   llir  ;i|i|i|'u;irll   iil    ili->|)iiiii|i'iir\  ,  litit   hmilu'llt   lili'lll  >;tli  ly 


lllliMI:;l|   Mlrll  ||ii>c|-\   ill 


.1   .ll>l 


lOS   ilH    lilH 


Iv.il 


t'St'V,  lliivr  I 


Ml!  Ill'  Mill 


Nil. 


)i  I  II 


Till*  li\(*  |)<M-sniis  iiK'iitioiird  wi-ir  < 'iiplaiti  .liiliii  (tinw 
Sii'  .lnliii)  l''l'illil\lili.  Ill  this  tiiiii'  roiiiiiiMMiliii;^  iiii  r\|H'i||. 
liiMi.  Mill  liii'  iiMriii|)liiii;  thi>  tlisciivny  of  ii  muiIIiw  isl 
pilSMi^i',  lilil  tl)  sii|i|)|y  till'  iiiriiiis  III'  rilrilitiililli:  iilir.  simI 
to  I'Mi'Mil  til)'  <:rii^i'ii|iliy  III  II  |)iil't  III  the  I'oliir  i'r;;liiiis 
M'l  \  littli'  known;  l>iir/(ir  liiilni  iilsnii,  ii  iiii\;il  siii::ritii, 
now  Mriliriil  liis|ii'rloi'  of  tlio  Ivoyiil  NjisjiI  I  los|iiliil  iii 
"  To    Ihiiliir    liiihiifil^i'ii,    in    |)iii'tiriiliii',"    Sir 


II 


isliir 


lolMi  snvs. 


tl 


II'  r\ilnsi\i'  ini'iit  is  iliii'  ol  w  linli'Vi'i'  cul- 


Icrlions  mill  oltscrviilions  jiiivi'  Ihtii  niinli'  in  tlio  ilr|iiiit- 
inriit  of  iiiitiifiil  liistoi'x  ;  iiiiii  I  iiiM  indolitrii  t  i  liiin  in  im 
sniiill  (Irurrr  lor  liis  iVii'mily  ndviri'  iiiiii  iissis!)inc»<  in  llii- 
pii'piiiiitioM  ol  till'  |iirscMl  imrnitivi'.  T'lo  \|>|ii'miIi\ 
(ii|iwiiiil  oltwo  liiiiiiliTil  ;iMil  I'i^lity  payrs)  is  iiioslly  Ins 
own."  |)o(tor  Kiclianlson  vojiinli'cn'd  l'»  ncroinpiiny 
(aplain  h'tanklin  on  Ins  socond  oxpi'dition  to  tlio  slmn's 


.Illii-  Polar  Si'a  :  also  :Mr.  d 


Ihirk  and  Mr.   Rnl,- 


II- 


(  rt  lldi'i/,  Adiniralty  inidsliipnii'n,  to  make  ohsrrvalioi 
ilrawin^s  ol' tlio  land,  ol' llio  nativi's,  and  ohjocts  ol"  mil 
ral  liisU>ry.  tlu«  Ioiimit  of  w  lioni  is  now  ('aplain  Sir 
(Ji'orm'  IJack,  and  iho  lattoi'  was  thr  victim  (aliovi'  allinl- 
«'d  to)  of  an  assassin.  TIm'  lil'lli  was  Jolni  lli  jilmrn.  n 
\v\u\  i'ailliriil.  and  altiTtionato  Kni;lisli  seaman,  and  tlii-ir 


UN, 


only  iitlondant,  who.  on  tlio  (■onclusion  ol  tho  cxpiMlitii 
was  dosi'ivcdiy  r 'wardi-d  with  a  pi'inianont  situation  in 
out'  1)1"  the   dockvards,      ()|"lhis  seaman,  tho   testiiiionv 


ol  Sir  .Id 


hn  I- 


raiiklm  is  too  valnahle  to  he  omi 


tted. 


.\iid 


heie."  he  says,  '•  I  nuist  lie  permitted  to  pay  the  triliiiti 


(lite  to  the  tidelitv,  exertion,  and  umlorm 


yood 


eoiiiliii'l, 


in  the  most  tiyiiiu  situations,  ol'  .lohii  ilephnrt;,  an  lliiu- 
lish  seaman,  and  our  only  attendant,  to  whom,  in  the  latter 


part  ot  our  journey,  we  owe,  muler  Divine  I  rovideiwe, 
the  preservation  ol"  the  lives  of  some  ol'  the  party."' 
The   iustruetions  whieh  Krankliu   received   I'rom   Miiil 


>athurst,  hy  whom   he   was   appoin 


ite4l. 


on 


tl 


M'   recoiii 


meiidaliou  ol  tlie  Loids  ( 'ommissiouers  of  the  Aihnir 


lulrodiic'lioii. 


niAVKr.iN   A\t)  nnFi audhon'h  jmi  unky.  ii.ll 

t\,  inrnniinl  liilii  tltiit  llic  MiliitI  (ilijrrl  ul'  tlir  )'\|iri|itit)t) 
WHS  In  «>\|iliii'f  iIm-  nni'thiMii  const  nl  \in*'n(-ii,  rrniii  tlio 
iiiiiiilh  (il  tlu^  ( 'u|)|iri-  NliiH'  Kivrr  ti)  till'  riistWiiol  ;  to 
la\  (Imwii  tlir  liiH'.  or  tiriiillfii:,  ol  tliiit  roust,  iis  I'jir  lis  In 
till'  I'll  sir  III  r\  I  in  inly  ol  lliiil.  rout  iiiriit  ;  in  slmi  I,  lo  In  Km 
nil  nii'iiiis   lor  ollttlllllll^  iii'ciiriitt*   inroriniition   n'spri-linir 

tl>->(       lllil.   Iiii\l-Il      IIIKi        iki        i'liliwl  \liil       it         ItJ       til      lllii     t>  fi  *i\  it      ikt 


'  \ 


f^W: 


n^ 


M 


ll 


•(   M         I 


232 


ARCTIC    VOYAGES. 


Fnuikliii  culled  it  at  tlic  tiino,  allnidfd  n  sample  of  liis 
eii^ei'iiess  aini  eiieriry.  and  ;iave  to  I5acl\  himself  a  ifeii- 
lle  speciiiHMi  of  wliat  Ik^  was  doomed  theieafl«u'  to  un- 
<leriio  with  iiitinitely  more  severity. 

'I'he  iticideiits  of  the  voyai^e  i'e(|uire  not  to  lie  relatei); 
pleasant  eiioiii:l»  until  they  approached  that  daniie'diis 
and  l)V  all  abhorred  island,  Ivcsolution,  in  the  month  nt' 
Undson's  Strait,  near  the  rocUy  shoi'es  of  which,  nsually 
lieset  \Nith  heavy  ice.  foi^s.  and  ii'reiinlar  cnrrents.  the 
vessel  narrowly  esca|)ed  shipwreck.  I*assin<;  this,  how- 
(>ver.  they  arrived  in  safety  at  Vork  l''actory,  in  Hud- 
son's I>ay,  on  the  ."((Mil  of  Ansxnst.  Here  ihey  were  cor- 
dially I'eceived  Ity  the  i;overn(»r  and  sei'vants  of  th«(  \\iu\- 
.son's  P)ay  ('onii)any,  and  wer(^  ftii'iiished  hy  them  with 
u  boat  of  tile  larj:;est  size,  well  stored  with  j)rovisi((ns  and 
annnmiition.  'is  imich  as  sIk^  conid  carry.  They  were 
also  fmnished  with  letteis  to  all  their  agents  in  the  sev- 
eral factories  in  the  conntry,  directinji  them  to  miv(^  ev- 
ery possible  assistance  towai'd  fm'therim;  thi^  object  of 
th«»  expedition.  Herc^  also  they  had  the  iictod  fortnne  to 
iiKM^t  with  several  ot  the  partners  of  the  Northwest  ( 'oni- 
pany,  from  whom  they  also  received  thi^  most  frietidly 
and  full  assurance  of  the  cordial  endeavors  of  the  winter- 
in<i  |»arliu'rs  of  their  establishment  to  promote  the  inter- 
est otthe  expedition.  This  was  the  nutre  yratifyinu.  as 
there  then  existed  a  violent  commercial  i-ivaliy  between 
the  two  companies.  With  the  knowleri^e  of  this,  and 
with  that  prudence  and  propi'iety  of  conduct  that  has  at. 
all  timos  been  the  (diaraciteristic  of  Franklin,  he  deemed 
it  expedient  to  "  issue  a  memorandum  to  the  oldcers  ot' 
the  expedition,  strictly  prohibitiiiij  any  interference  what- 
ever in  the  existing  (piarrels,  oi'  any  that  nfnj;ht  arise,  be- 
tween the  two  companies:  and  n\i  presenliny;  it  to  tlie 
jaincipals  of  both  the  ])ai'ties,  they  expressed  their  sat- 
isfaction at  the  step  I  had  taken.'' 

( )n  the  iUh  of  September,  the  boat  beins;  comjileted, 
arraniiemeiits  were  made  for  their  depai'ture,  and  at  noon 
they  embark»>d  lualer  a  salute  of  eiyht  uuns  and  three 
cheers,  whicdi  they  |[jratet"ully  returned,  and  made  all 
sail.  The  route  was  settled  to  be  by  ( 'umberland  I  louse, 
and  thi'ouiih  the  chain  of  I'osts  to  the  (Jri'at  Slave  F^ake. 
It  is   not  deemed  necessary  to  notice  \\w  nuiltitude  of 


,11 


FR.WKLIX    AND    RICHARDSOn's    JOURNEY.    233 

lakos,  rivors,  pnitn^cs.  juid  tlic  iiiiiiicrcms  diniciiltics  aiul 
iiri|)t'<iiiiit>iits  wliicli  lirsrl  llic  liiuclcr  tliroiiyhoiit  liis  ur- 
(luous  joiiiiicy  ill  the  iioitlieiii  rt'yioii.s  ot'  Aiiirricii,  thos*) 
liaviiiii  l)(MMi  so  fiT(|ii(Mitly  dcscrilxMl  by  various  travrltM'S 
siiici'  tlic  tiiiic  ol"  I  learnt!  and  Maclxcii/ic.  Suriice  it  to 
say  tlmt,  iVom  tlic  tiiii»!  of  tlu'ir  Icaviiii:  York  Factory 
on  tilt'  !ltli  of  St'|)tt'nil)fr,  to  tlitur  arrival  at  ( 'iiiiilx-ilaiid 
lloiisi)  on  \\w  "JJd  ot"  October,  tlu'V  hail  traveled  over  ii 
distance  of  very  nearly  seven  iinndred  miles,  with  and 
against  tlie  streams  of  some  ten  dil'ferent  rivers  and  niiio 
lakes,  to  say  nothing  of  rocks,  ra|)ids.  and  portages.  The 
charts  and  views,  fi'om  the  ohservatior;s  and  pencils  ot 
Messrs.  Hood  and  liack,  atfoi'd  a  more  clear  description 
than  any  written  accoimt  could  convey.  Tlie  services 
of  iheso  two  officers  in  tiiese  ami  other  respects  were  (»f 
iiicalculaltle  benefit,  and  hiuhly  sp(»ken  ot'  by  the  coin- 
jntinder  of  the  exprihtioti. 

Nothinj;  could  exceed  the  Uitwhiess  of  the  jiOveriHtr  of 
Fort  Ciimbeiiand:  he  foi-thwi:h  set  about  enlar^iiiii  the 
pii'inises,  to  make  this  their  intended  winter  (|uarteis  as 
convenient  and  aureeable  as  possible.  IJut  I*' raiiklin,  af- 
ter many  coiivtM'sations  witli  ( Jovernor  \\'iHiams,  and  oth- 
er iicntlemeii  in  chaii^e  ot' noi'thern  posts,  was  convinced 
<»f  tlie  necessity  of  proceedliii:.  diiriiii,'  the  winter,  into 
the  Athobasca  department,  to  the  northward  of  tlie  (Ireat 
Slave  ljak(s  from  whence,  only.  I'uides.  hunters,  and  iii- 
teipreters  were  to  be  j)rocured.  I  le  therefore  re(|uested 
(ioveinor  Williams  that  he  mi;iht  be  furnished,  by  the 
nilildle  of  .lanuary.  w'-;''  the  means  of  conveyance  for 
tiiree  persons,  havin<:  jnevionsly  arranged  tliat  Messrs. 
iJack  and  Ilepbiu-n  should  accompany  him,  wliib  I  )r. 
Richardson  and  Mv.  Jlood  should  remain  till  the  spring 
at  ( 'umberland  House. 

This  arrangement  was  qi!i,f.  consistent  with  tlie  truM 
character  of  Franklin  ;  whenever  an  arduous,  se  're,  or 
inconvenient  si'rvice  was  to  be  performed,  he  was  always 
ready  to  relieve  the  [)arty  he  comniande(l  from  the  bur- 
den, aiul  to  undertake  it  himself. 

With  this  view,  on  the  IHth  of  January.  l-'Jii.  Frank- 
lin, with  Ihick  as  his  companion,  and  the  faithful  Hep- 
burn, took  leave  of  Dr.  Kicliard>  >u  and  Mr.  Hood,  who 
were  tu  follow  with  their  bau;:ai:e  in  the  spring.      iJut, 


n 


'1 


ill  i 


ii     ! 


:«T^ 


1)   ' 


231 


ARCTIC   VOYAGErf. 


hoforo  laUint^  n  hi-H'T  view  of  flio  oxpoditioii  of  the  first 
tlircif  to  ( "iiilton  House,  iiiid  thciKM!  to  Fort  Chipewyiiii, 
it  iiiJiy  he  expccht-iit  to  {ilaiicc!  over  the  pntreediiiiis  of 
th(!  two  latter  at  ('iimberlaiid  I  louse,  to  wliich  a  cliaplcr 
is  separately  appropriated  iu  tlie  iiarrativt\  'Plie  (hstrict 
of  ( "uiulierlaiiil  is  stilted  by  Dr.  Kicliardson  to  coiitnin 
upward  ol"  'JO, 0(10  sipiare  miles,  is  peopled  hy  ahout  Ijo 
Indian  hunters,  most  of  them  married,  with  an  average 
ot  livtt  to  each  family,  or  the^  whole  Indian  population 
may  \n'.  estimated  at  "J.'jOO.  'j'hrir  mode  of  lite  sulijrcis 
them  to  yreat  privations  ;  the  hoopinii-couu;h  and  mca- 
sli's  at  this  tune  were  spreadiiiij  throuiih  the  whole  trihe  : 
niany  died,  and  most  of  the  survivors  wei'e  so  enl'eelijed 
as  to  l)(^  unahle.  to  j)ursue  tlie  necessary  avocations  of 
hunliiiii  and  fishing:  the  scenes  of  misery  were;  lieart- 
rendiny,  and  the  lew  who  liad  escaped  ilist.'ase  were  not 
ul)l(*  to  all'ord  rtdief  to  tlie  sullerers. 

'•  ( )iie  «'V('iiiiii:.  in  the  month  of  Jamuuy  (says  Dr.  Richanl- 
poii).  a  piKir  Indian  entered  the  .Northwest  ('onipany's  House, 
carrvin-,'  liis  oiiK child  in  liis  arms,  juid  followed  I»y  his  stai'v- 
ini:  wile.  'J'liey  had  been  liuntinii  apart  from  the  other  l)aiiil:<, 
had  heeii  unsnccesstid,  and  while  in  want  were  seized  wiili 
the  epidemical  disease.  An  Indian  is  accustomed  to  star\e, 
and  it  is  not  eiisy  to  elicit  iVom  him  an  accoinil  of  his.<nllir- 
iiiL's.  This  |)oor  man's  story  was  very  brief;  as  .Mton  as  tlio 
fever  abated,  be  M't  out  with  his  wife  ti)r  Cumberland  Mouse, 
baviuLT  been  |)revi(iu>lv  reduced  to  teed  ou  tbe  bits  ot  sUia 
and  olVal  wliicli  remained  iiltout  tlieir  encampment.  l",\eii 
this  miserable  tio'e  was  exhausted,  and  lliev  walked  several 
davs  w  ithout  eiitini:.  vet  exerliui.'  them>elves  iiir  beyond  their 
stie!ii,'tli.  that  tlii'V  mil/lit  save  the  life  of  the  intinit.  It  I'jed 
almost  within  sii,'lit  of  the  liou>e.  .Mr.  Connelly,  then  iu 
charire  of  the  post,  n'celved  them  with  the  utmost  iiumanllv, 
and  iu>taullv  placed  fond  before  tln-m  ;  but  no  luminaL'e  c;ni 
describe  the  maimer  in  which  the  miserable  futher  dashed 
the  morsel  liom  bis  lips,  and  de|ilored  the  loss  of  his  child. 
Mi>ei-v  mav  haideii  a  disposition  naturally  bad.  hut  it  never 
fails  to  sohi'u  the  heart  of  a  i.'ood  man." — I'.  (iO,  (!l. 

,'\  iireal  part  of  the  chapter  is  employeij  in  a  minute 
account  of  the  Crees,  or,  as  nanuvl  by  the  French  (  a- 
iiadians.  Knist»Mieau\.  .Al  uidi  ciu'ious  iidormatiou  reyard- 
iiiii  their  manuei's.  customs,  and  characti'r  is  developed, 
and  a|)parontly  on  correct  authority,  hut  the  detail  woulil 


"W" 


FRANKLIN    AND    RICH ARDSON'.S    JOLRNEV.     2.'i5 


lie  out  of  pliirc  in  tlic  |)i'('s('nt  naiTntivc.  Tt  miiy  snfFico, 
tlicrt'torc,  to  iiivc  tlic  (loctor's  (-(tii.  hi.ioii,  wIhm'c  he  siiys, 
'•  We  iiiJiy  stiitc  tlici  Crccs  to  Ix?  ii  viiiii,  tickle.  im])rovi- 
ilciit.  imd'i.idolrnt  inct«,  mid  not  very  strict  in  tlicir  iid- 
licrtMicc  to  truth,  hciiisx  ^rcat  houstt  i>  ;  .it,  on  tlio  oth- 
er hiiiid.  they  strictly  rc^u'iird  the  risilits  ot' property,  lire) 
siisce|)til)I<'  of  the  kinder  idlections.  ciipiil)le  of  Irieiidshi]), 
verv  hospital)le.  tolerably  kind  to  their  women,  and  with- 
al inclined  to  peace."  He  then  ijives  an  instance  of  their 
kind  feelinu;  toward  the  softer  sex.  "An  Indian  visited 
tlie  fort  in  the  winter.  Tho  i)Of»r  man's  wife  had  lost 
lier  feet  hv  th<^  frost  :  this  com|)elled  him  not  only  to 
iiiiiit.  hut  to  do  all  the  menial  oflices  himself,  and  in  the 
winter,  to  dras;  liis  wife,  with  their  stock  of  fui-nitur<', 
fidiii  one  encampment  to  another.  In  the  performanco 
of  this  duty,  as  he  could  not  keep  ])ace  with  the  rest  of 
the  trilte.he  more  than  once  nearly  perished  of  huii<;er." 

In  such  a  mode  of  life,  in  such  a  country,  and  in  such 
society,  it  would  he  too  mucli  to  expect  a  state  of  refuie- 
nient. Or  of  UKual  |)urity.  even  in  females  of  the  better 
part  of  the  commmiity,  es[)ecially  when  the  male  pur- 
lion  of  it  is  so  debast'd. 

" 'I'lie  j:irls  at  the  forts,  ])Miticuliirly  the  dau^lifers  of  Cana- 
tliiuis,  nrc  iriveii  in  iii:iri-iime  very  yoiiiiL' ;  tliey  are  very  fre- 
(lilfiitlv  wives  at  twelve  yeais  of  aire,  and  iiiolhcrs  at  fourteen. 
.N;iv,  more  than  one  instance  came  under  our  observiition  of 
tlie  master  of  a  post  liavinir  pei'mitted  a  voyairiM-  to  lid\e  to 
wife  ;i  poor  cliild  that  had  scarci'iy  attaineil  the  ai:e  of  ten 
vr;irs.  'fill-  masters  of  posts  iind  winterini,'  partners  of  com- 
panics  deemed  this  criminal  iiidnlueiice  to  the  vices  of  their 
M'rv;ints  ne<t's>iirv  to  stimulate  them  to  exertion  for  the  in- 
terest of  their  re.-pe(tive  concerns.  Another  pnictice  m.iy 
iil>o  be  ii<iti<'ed.as  siiowiiiLr  the  state  of  nioi-iil  feelini:  on  thr-e 
subjects  amoiii:  the  white  residents  of  the  fur  countries.  It 
was  not  vei-v  uncommon  amoni,'  the  (';ina<liaii  voya^'ers  for 
one  woman  to  be  cnmmon  to.  and  maintained  at  the  jnjnt 
expense  of,  two  men.  nor  ll)r  a  voya;:er  to  sell  his  uiti', 
either  fa'  a  setisoii  or  altoiietiier,  for  a  sum  of  money  proper- 
tinned  1(1  her  beauty  and  i^ood  (|ualities,  but  always  inft.-rior 
t(»  the  jM'ici'  of  a  teiuu  of  doirs." — 1'.  !!(i. 

The  products  of  this  jjiirt  of  the  country  iire  noticed 
by  Dr.  Kicliardson.  Of  forest  trees  he  meiitions  two 
ispecies  of  poplar,  two  spj'cit's  of  spruci'-lir,  three  otlier 


il 


) 


^1 


H 


<fr  '« 


230 


ARCTIC    VOYAGES. 


11-' 


I.- 
i 

1 


piiios,  Olio  lairli.  lln'  rniinr-birrh,  aldri',  and  varitius  wil- 
lows;  tlio  sii:,'iir-iMa|)I«\  cIim,  asli,  and  arlmr  cita  ('riiuyji 
0('ci«l<Mitalis).  Of  tVuits  artj  two  specios  of  plum;  one, 
vorv  nstriiijjjcnt,  is  known  by  the  nanio  of  cliokc-rlu  rnj. 
('nrfants,  ^oosclicrrirs,  raspbrrrics.  and  strawberries, 
connnoii;  cranbcriios.  wliorllfbt'iTJcs,  and  otliei-s,  plcn- 
tifnlly  met  with  on  swani|)y  and  heathy  grounds.  <  if 
the  (|ii;idnipe(ls  hunted  for*  food  are  mostly  the  mnnse 
and  tht^  i-eindeei",  tlie  IjuI'IuIo  or  bison,  the  red  deer, 
jum|)in<f  i\vA\\\  lonj^-tailed  (Uu-r,  and  a  species  of  antelope. 
Of  th((  fiu'-bearitiji;  animals  are  foxes  of  vai'ious  kinds, 
(listiiiiiuished  as  hhick,  .s'llrt  r,  cross,  n cL  and  hint  ;  tlm 
woiv(Min»',  tile  lynx,  the  marten,  the  lisher,  the  otln-, 
and  the  beaver.  'I'iie  Indians,  it  appears,  have  nearly 
(h'stroyed  tlu^  fur-bearinu;  animals;  and  so  scarce  is  the 
beaver  become,  thai  in  the  wliole  journey  to  tlu'  shons 
of  tin*  l*olar  Sea  and  back,  one  sinjile  habitation,  and  one 
dam  only  ot"'  tliat  in(histrions  and  itiiiiMiious  creaturi', 
were  m«'t  with.  Annaii;  the  many  inlerestinu  anecdotes 
that  iiave  been  told  of  this  animal,  Dr.  Uichardson  re- 
lates tile  followinjf : 

"Oueil.iva  Lreiitleiiian,  loni:  rrsidciit  in  tlli^^  counti'\%  esjiii'd 
fiv((  vouiiir  beiivers  s|»(ii-tiiiir  in  tlir  w.itcr,  Ii-iipiii;,'  upon  iho 
trunk  ol  a  tree,  pushing  one  another  oil.  and  pliivinir  a  thou- 
y;nid  inten.'stinir  tricks.  Ih'  ap|)ro;iched  sottlv  nnder  comt 
of  the  1'  .slies.  and  jtrepared  to  lire  on  tin-  iinsnsjicctiiii.'  (  icii- 
tiires,  but  a  neari-r  approacli  discovered  to  him  snch  a  siuiih- 
tude  between  their  Lresturt's  ;nid  the  intiintljf  CMresses  ot  liis 
own  children,  that  he  threw  aside  his  u'lin.  'I'his  izentleinans 
leeliicis  an;  to  l»e  envied,  but  few  traders  in  fars  would  liiivo 
acted  so  tt"eiin-ly."— 1'.  \)->. 

It  has  been  states!  thf.t  on  the  l^^tli  of  .Tanuary.  1  HJi). 
Sir  John  Franklin,  .Mr.  Ihick,  and  .lohn  Hepburn  lell 
(Juniberlaiid  llous(^  for  Carlton  1  louse,  to  proceed  iVoin 
thence  to  K(»rt  Chipewyan,  tluMui  to  make  preparation  lor 
pniceediny;  to  the  nortlierii  coast.  A  circumstantial  ac- 
count is  tfiveii  ot"  the  mod(^  of  traveling:,  of  the  rivers, 
lakes,  and  |)ortaiies.  of  the  posts  of  the  two  comiiaiiies, 
of  the  snows  that  fell,  and  the  numerous  hardships  tli;it 
the  traveler  in  winter  must  necessarily  undergo,  daily 
and  nijihtly,  till  lie  arrives  at  liis  destination,  and  the 
close  of  the  spring  initigates  the  severity  of  the  temper- 


W    "■»■ 


^m 


1        ( 


nous  wil- 
:  ('riiii\  ,1 

Uil  ;    one, 

A'l)«.'rri<'s, 
■rs,  plcti- 
i(l.s.     ( H' 

(.'     1I1(IIIS(( 

Cil  (leer, 
llllti'lopc. 
IIS   kiliiis. 

/wt  ;  tlid 
lie  ottri-, 
t'  lu'iii'ly 
CO  is  tlio 
le  sliorcs 
,  itnd  (liitf 
jreatuic. 
iK'cdotus 
"(Isoii  ro- 

ly.  <>s[)ii'il 
iqxia  tint 
il:  ii  tliMii- 
Icr  ci)\(i- 

lilli.'  Clf,!- 

i  a  simili- 
ses ot  iii- 

lltlclll.'lIIH 

)iild  liavo 

•y,  Ir'-Jl), 
i)uni  l«'l'i 
•ed  tVoiii 
•afi(»ii  lor 
iiitial  Hc- 
•'  rivers, 
iiipanies, 
hips  that 
^^o.  daily 
and  tlu^ 
tfiiii)cr- 


IRAXKLIN    AND    llICHAIlDSON'ri    JOUllXEV.     237 

fitnre.  Wluif  the  stato  of  tliat  toinpoi'atiiro  liad  heeri 
lidiii  tlie  iHth  of  .lamiiiry  to  the  -Jiith  of  Marcli.  wlieii 
tlie  party  reacheil  ( 'hipewyaii,  thero  is  no  riu'oni,  I'or  a 
reason  explained  by  FranUlni.  wlio  says  that  "lliiseven- 
iii:i  (I'^th  of  .laniiary )  W(i  fouml  iho  inercwry  of  onrtlier- 
iiKMneter  had  sunk  into  th(^  bulb,  and  was  tVo/eii.  It 
ni>e  ai;ain  into  the  tube  on  beiuij;  helfl  to  tin*  lire,  l)ut 
([uicUly  reih^.scended  into  the  l>ulb  on  beiiii;  I'enioved  info 
the  ail' ;  we  eoidd  not,  therefore,  ascertain  by  it  the  Iimm- 
peraturo  of  the  atmosphere,  eithi-r  then  or  (hirinj;  our 
JDurney.  Mr.  Hood,  however,  who  nia(h*  a  journey 
iVmn  (Cumberland  House  to  the  I5as(piiiin  Hill,  not  far 
finni  the  former,  states  in  his  journal,  that  on  the  '2-')\h 
(if  March  the  thermonu'ter  fi'll  in  the  open  air  to  1')^ 
hi'low  zero,  although  it  I'ose  the  followinii  day  to  (iO^ 
above  it.  Tha  sudden  clian^es  that  take  places  in  the 
!ii)rlhei-n  parts  of  Xorth  Anu-rica  are  very  reinarkalile. 
On  the  l.'jth  of  Apttil  Mv.  Hood  records  that  "the  lirst 
sljower  of  rain  tell  w»;  had  seen  for  six  montiis,  and  on 
the  17th  the  thermometer  rose  to  77^  in  the  shade." 
lie  also  observes  that,  "on  th(^  lOtli  or  I'Jth  of  April,  the 
return  of  the  swans,  }j;eese,  and  ducks  gave  certain  iudi- 
calions  of  tht<  advance  of  spring. " 

'.rile  warm  w«'allier,  by  the  sudden  meltiuii  of  the 
snow  and  ice,  deluded  the  face  of  the  country,  and  gave 
rise  to  a  remark  of  .Mr.  Hood,  the  truth  (»f  which  has 
liccii  j)roved  by  many  we||-atteste(l  facts.  He  says, 
"  tli(!  noise  made  by  the  fi-ogs  .vliich  this  inundation  pi'o- 
iliiced  is  almost  incredible.  Theie  is  strouj^  i-eas(»n  to 
liflieve  that  they  outlive  the  severity  of  winter.  They 
have  often  been  found  fro/.cMi.  and  I'evived  by  Wiirmth; 
nor  is  it  possible^  that  the  multitude  which  incessantly 
lilliMl  our  ears  w'ith  their  disciu'dant  notes  c(udd  havi"  been 
matured  in  two  or  three  days."  Stroni;;  doulits  had  lonif 
Itefore  this  been  entertained  of  the  correctness  of  the  fact 
liei'e  stated,  but  experiments  made  by  compet(Mit  per- 
sons [)roved  that  not  only  tVttgs,  but  leeches,  suiiils,  i:rubs, 
fishes,  and  other  animals,  could  be  frozen  by  artilicial 
cold,  and  revived,  h  was  farther  ascertained  that  fro^s 
woidd  rtjvive  if  the  heart  even  was  iVo/.eii,  but  that  il 
tile  brain  was  concealed,  lite  became  so  irrecoverably  e.\- 
liiK.'t  that  Jiot  only  could  no  degree  (if  warnitli  produce 


i 


) 


t 


hi  . 


♦'i' 

1 


238 


ARCTIC   VOYAtiEri. 


I! 


symptoms  of  rorovrry,  but  tlio  aiiinial  was  rondorcd  in- 
fapat.lo  ot  liciiiif  aUcctcd  l)y  tlic  f^alvanic  action.  "  I  have 
fV('(|ii('ntly,"  says  llcanie,  '*  scmmi  iVo^s  dujf  up  with  tin' 
moss,  iVo/iMi  as  liard  as  ico,  in  which  stato  t\u'.  lo^s  aid 
as  easily  hiokcu  oil'  as  a  pipesteiii  :  but,"  lie  adds,  "if 
they  Iwi  pormitted  to  iVeezo  again,  they  aro  past  all  rc- 
covcM'y." 

Captain  Franklin  also  notices  the  resuscitation  ol"  fish- 
es alter  being  frozen  : 

"  It  may  ])c  worthy  of  notice  here,  that  the  fish  froze  us 
they  were  taken  out  of  tin;  nets,  and  in  a  short  tiua;  hecaiiK! 
a  solid  mass  of  ic(>,  and  ])y  a  blow  or  two  of  the  hatchet  wen; 
easily  s|)lit  open,  wIkmi  the  intestines  miiiht  bo  removed  in 
«)iif;  lump,  li'  in  this  com|>letely  fro/j-n  state  they  wen- 
thawed  before  the  fire,  they  recovered  their  aMimiitioii, 
This  was  [tarticularly  the  ciise  with  the  carp,  and  we  hml 
occasion  to  observe  it  i'e[teMtedly,;iS  i)i'.  Hichaivlson  occupied 
himself  in  ex"  nininir  the  slnicturo  of  the  ditVerent  spj'cifs  nt 
iish,  and  was  always,  in  the  winter,  nndi-r  the^  ne(;essitv  of 
tliawiii>,'  them  bct'ori'  hi'  could  cut  iIkmu.  \Ve  have  seen  a 
carp  recover  so  far  as  to  leaj)  about  with  much  vigor  after  il 
had  been  frozen  for  thirty-six  hours." — V.  'J  lU. 

Nay,  it  may  bo  stated  that  the  same  etlect  is  produced 
on  tli(^  insect  ti'ibe.  It  is  reported  by  Mr.  KIlis,  that  at 
the  Hudson's  l»ay  faetoiy,  a  black,  tVo/en  mass  of  a  ])eat- 
like  substance  being  brought  before  the  fire  and  thawed, 
there  came  from  it  a  cloud  of  living  musquetoes.  Cap 
tain  liuchan  observed  myriads  oi"  insects  frozen  on  X\ui 
surface  of  a  lake  in  Newfoundland,  and  imbodied  in  the 
solid  ic«^ ;  the  next  day,  by  the  powerful  rays  of  the  sun, 
they  wei'e  loosened  from  durance,  became  reanimated, 
and  took  their  llight  into  the  air. 

Mr.  Hood,  in  his  journey,  also  makes  an  observation 
of  a  dillerent  kind  regarding  this  most  annoying  animal. 

"  We  had  sometimes  before  ])r()cured  a  little  rest  by  clo.v- 
im,'  the  tent  and  burnitii,'  wood  or  llashiiig  giuipowder  witli- 
iii,  the  smoke  driving  the  muscjuetoes  into  the  crannies  of  thi! 
ground.  Hut  tliis  remedy  was  now  inelfectual,  though  wo 
employed  it  so  persevei'iiigly  as  to  hazard  sut^itcation  ;  they 
swiiiined  tnider  our  blankets,  goring  us  with  their  enveu- 
onied  trunks,  and  stcn-ping  our  clothes  in  blood.  We  rose  at 
daylight  in  a  lever,  and  our  misery  was  uuiuitiguted  duriuij 
our  whole  stiiv. 


.r}-i-,' 


FRANKLIX    ANU   UlCllAUDriON'ri    JUURNEV.     'SM) 

"  The  food  of  the  iimsrineloo  is  Mood,  which  it  can  rxtnict 
by  jiciK'tialiiii:  thf  hide  of  a  IjutlUlo;  and  if  it  is  not  disturl>- 
cil,  it  goi-f^t's  itself  so  as  to  swell  its  body  into  a  tran-parent 
■'Injje.  Tlie  wound  does  not  swell  like  tliat  of  the  African 
miis(inotoe,  hut  it  is  inhnitely  more  painful  ;  and  when  mul- 
tiplied a  liundred  fold,  and  continued  for  so  many  successiv(? 
(lav-*,  it  becomes  an  evil  of  such  mairnituth-,  that  cold,  fam- 
ine, and  eveiy  other  concomitant  of  ar.  inhospitable  climate 
Tiiust  yield  \\w  ])re-emiiu'nce  to  it.  It  chases  the  butfalo  t(» 
the  plains,  irritating  him  to  madness;  and  the  reindeer  to  the 
sea-shore,  from  which  tliey  du  not  return  till  the  scourge  has 
ceased."— P.  !«»,  VM. 

To  return  to  Captain  Franklin  and  his  coinpaniun  l»ack. 
A  description  is  ffiven  of  the  sli'diies,  the  coracles,  the 
snow-shoes,  and  tlio  clothing  of  a  winter-traveler  in  this 
cold  aiid  dreary  climate,  a  repetition  of  which  wcmld  af- 
ford but  littlo  entertainment  to  tho  general  reader.     Dr. 
Jvichardson,  in  his  account  of  the  Crees,  says  that  tat- 
tooing is  as  common  among  them  as  in  tin;  Oriental  Isl- 
ands, notwithstanding  it  is  a  most  ])ainful  o])eration  :  "  a 
half-breed,  whose  arm  I  amputated,  declared  that  tattoo- 
ing w^as  not  only  the  most  paiid'ul  operation  of  the  two, 
but  iidinitely  more  difficult  to  hear,  i)y  its  tedionsness, 
having,  in  his  case,  lasted  three  days."     Captain  Frank- 
lin has  also  some  notices  of  the  Crees,  but  is  more  par- 
ticular resj)ecting  the  Stone   Indians,  residing  near  the 
( 'ompany's  post  of  Carlton  House  ;  "  they  are  nun-e  i)re- 
poss(!ssing,"  he  says,   "in  their  looks,  l)ut  aildicted  to 
tiiieving.  smd  grossly  and  habitmilly  trea(  herons,     '{"heir 
countenances  are  affable  and  pleasing,  tiieir  eyes  largei 
and  exjH-essive,  nose   aiiuiliin',  teeth  white  and  regular, 
the  forehead  hold,  the  cheek-bones  rather  high.     Their 
tigure  is  usually  good,  above  the  middle  size,  with  slench'r 
hut  well-})roportioned  limbs.     Tlu^ir  color  is  a  light  cop- 
])er,  atidthey  hav«!  a  prolusion  of  very  black  hair."'      I  Jack 
has  supplied  a  very  striking  portrait.     Tluiy  steal  w  hat- 
ever  they  can,  partictdarly  horses,  maintaining  that  tliey 
are  common  property  sent  by  the  Almighty  for  the  gen- 
eral use  of  man,  and  thei'ei'oi-e   may  be  taken  wherever 
met  with.     This  avow«'d  dis])osilion  calls  for  tlu?  strict- 
«'st  vigilance  tit  the  several  posts. 

••  In  the  alternoon  of  tin-  -Jfilli  of  March  we  had  the 
l)leasure  of  arriving."  says  Captain  Franklin,  "at  Fort 


II' 


>.  i 


}i 


!'  VK 


111 


I    t 


\.^l 


H 


■^ 


yio 


AU(  Tit:    VOVACJC.-^. 


( 'lii])i'wyiin,  niid  iIiih  IcnuiiiMlJ'd  a  wintci-'s  jtninicy  nl' 
ri'ilit  liiiiidrcil  iimi  litty-scvfii  miles,  iti  tin*  proLTcss  of' 
ANliicli  tlu'ic  WHS  ii  uroiil  iiilri-iiii\tiirt5  ol"  iiiiitH'iildc  imd 


disairicciiblc  circumstaiiccs. 


hal 


llU'tMl,  won 


I.I  I 


)r('i)i»ii( 


If-nit 


Tlie  latter,  ho  tliiiiks,  if 
(!,  and  tliat  walUiii;;  in  snuw- 


shoes  was  anmni;  llie  most  pniminent.  ^J'o  tlie  inexpcri- 
t.Miced,  indeeil,  tht^  snlleiiiii^  occasiuned  hy  wall^iM^  in 
snow-shoes  appears  to  lit'  dr«'adl'nl,  "and  can  he  hut 
iaintly  imairined  hy  a  pers(ai  who  thinks  upon  the  iticon- 
veiiience  of  marcliiiii;  with  a  w«'ii:;ht  ot  hetween  two  and 
three  pounds  constantly  attached  to  galled  feet  and  swell- 


«•( 


lanki 


es. 


r>ut  Mr.  Hood  will  hest  descrihe.  it. 


"  The  miseries  (  iidured  dnriiiLr  llie  (ir-^t  joui'uey  of  fin's  aa- 
lurc  are  so  i,'i'e;it,  ihiit  nnthiii;^  cduld  induce  tiie  sulliwer  fn 
nndcrlaUe  ii  second  wliile  under  the  inlliience  of  pnsciil 
p;iin.  lie  feels  his  fianie  (  ru^hi  d  hy  un;ic((iuntai)le  |>ir.s- 
Ufc,  he  (h'ML's  a  L'alllni:  and  sluhlinrn  w.'i^'lil  at  his  ii'ct,  iuid 
his  li'ai'li  is  marked  witii  !)li)ii(l.  'I'lii!  da/./.Tnij,'  scene  an  ;i:iil 
him  :itlitrds  no  n->\  1o  his  eye,  ntt  oi»jecl  to  divert  lii>  atteniinn 
from  his  own  aL.'oni/iii,L'  sensniions.  ^^'hen  h"  ri.-es  iVoni 
slrrjt.  Irilf  iiis  lioilv  >('eiir-<  dead,  till  (Hiicketied  into  tcclinu' 
l)v  the  irritalion  of  his  sores.  But.  fortunately  li>r  lii..i,  no 
evil  makes  iin  impression  so  evanescent  as  pain.  It  can  not 
he  wholly  hiinished,  nor  recalled  with  the  lla'ce  of  realilv, 
by  any  act  of  the  mind,  eitliei'  to  atleet  our  determinations, 


or  to  sympaliiize   \v 


ilh  another.      The  traveler  soon   for''ets 


his  sutK-riiiL's.  and  at  every  lutin'e  journey  their  reeinTence  is 
attended  with  diminished  acuteness." — !'.  17;5,  17  1. 

I'l'eparations  were  foithwith  to  ho  made  at  Chipewy- 
an  tor  prosecutiiiii  the  main  ohject  of  the  ex])edit  ion,  and 
in  the  consnltation  Avith  the  |)riiaipals  (tf  tlio  two  irreat 
rontendinu  companies,  Fi'anklin,  hy  his  persiiasivi'  and 
conciliatini!;  manneis,  hj'ouuht  about  a  cordial  desire  on 
th(^  part  (d"  both  to  render  mutual  assistance  to  the  lor- 
wardini;  of  that  objert.  lle'"e.  too,  in  the  earl}'  part  of 
.Inly,  Im  had  the,  sinc(M"e  ;^ratilication  of  W(dcominii  his 
lon'j,-separate(l  friends.  Dr.  Kiidiaidson  find  Mr.  Hood, 
wlio  uri-iv(>d  in  perfect  liealth  :  and  h«»  records  tlio  zetil 
and  talents  displayed  by  thes(«  two  i!;eiitlemen.  aial  sjxMiks 
in  thi>  hij^hest  terms  of  approbation  of  the  manner  in 
's\hich  theii-  several  duties  had  boeii  discharged  since 
their  seftaration. 


Tiu)  C'hipewyii'is  are  the  iieighhoritig  tribe  of  tJ 


10 


FUANKLIV    AND    lUCHARDSOx'.S    JOl.'RNEY.     ii  1 1 


nnicy  nt 

»"_'l'rss  lit 
'iiltlc  iiinl 
Ihiiiks.  il" 
ill  slKiw- 
iiu'xpcri- 
'iilUiiiL::  III 
III  l)r  l)iit 
lie  iiHiin- 
II  two  iiiid 

Mill  SWL'll- 

ir. 

(if  lllis  ii;i- 

SlltVi't'cr   tn 

of  pifsciil 
ililc  |iri'.s-- 
is  tfct,  aihl 
•IM"  ;ii'<  ;i!iil 

i.-.   llttClllillll 

r'lM's  iVdiii 
iitn  trclliii; 
or  lii..i,  ii'i 

It  Ciltl   lint 

ot'  n'iilily, 
rmiiiiiliniis, 
ton  t'or^fts 
cuiTL'iK't,'  is 

1. 

Chipcwv- 
(litioii,  mill 
\\\()  irrt'iit 
liisivc  iiiid 
(losirc^  on 
to  tho  i'or- 
ly  piirt  of 
nMrmn  his 
Ir.  Hood, 

S   tllP    ZCill 

111(1  spcaiss 
iijiiiiKM'  in 
iTcd  Hiiico 

lljc  of  iho 


Sroiin  Itiflimis,  with  I«»s.s  promisiiii;  fciifuroM.  Init  iiioio 
lioiK'st,  null'  ill  their  nifiimcis,  niiil  extremely  supersti- 
tious. 'I'heir  lent  iircs  hIso  are  iiiziiiiist  them:  they  hii\() 
liroad  faces,  project iiii;  cheeU-l»oiies.  and  wide  nostrils, 
liut  ^iencrally  j^ood  teetli  and  line  eyes;  theyaro  r<*serv- 
ed  and  S(dtish  ;  they  Ite^  with  miceasinji  iniportniiity 
CM  y  thiiii;  they  see.  ••  I  never  saw  men,"  says  Fiank- 
liii.  "who  either  reciVived  or  liestowed  a  yiit  with  siaii 
had  ^race  ;  they  ulniost  snatch  the  thiiij.'  from  you  in  ono 
instance,  and  throw  it  at  you  in  tlie()ther."  ()nr  travel- 
ers tell  in  with  a  party  of  these  people  in  the  most  I'or- 
lorii  condition,  havini:  destroyed  every  thinjc;  they  pos- 
sessed in  token  of  i^rief  for  the  severe  loss  they  had  sus- 
tained Ity  the  prevailiiif^  sickness  of  measles,  hoopiiiir- 
(•oiis,'h,  and  dysentery.  "  It  appears,"  says  Franklin, 
'•that  no  article  is  .jiai'ed  by  those-  unhappy  men  when 
a  near  ndative  dies;  tlniir  clothes  and  tents  ar«^  cut  to 
jiieces.  their  liuns  broken,  and  every  other  wea|)on  ren- 
dered useless,  if  some  person  do  not  lemove  tlios(!  ar- 
ticles from  tluur  sifjht."  As  some  relief,  liowever,  to 
the  darker  shailes  of  their  character,  instances  of  tlndt 
are  stated  to  la^  extremely  rare  amony  them  ;  they  also 
possess  stronju;  utfecrtion  for  their  children.  A  curious 
example  of  tliis  was  mentioned  to  tln^  piirty,  "  »ind  so 
well  authenticated,"  says  Franklin,  "  that  1  slmli  venturo 
to  jzive  it  in  the  words  of  Dr.  Richardson's  .Journal." 

"  A  youiii,'  Chipewyaii  hud   separated  from  the  rest  of  his 
hand   l()r  th(^    purpose  of  trenchiiiji  heaver,  when  his  who, 
wliii  wiis  his  sole  conipanioii,  and  in  her  llrst  jire^Miaiicy,  whs 
^ri/ed  with  the  pains  of  lahor.     She  died  on  the  third  day 
.itliT  she  liiid   ^'iveii  hirtli  to  a  hoy.      The  liiishaiid  was  iu- 
( niisdlalf'e,  and  vowed  in  his  aiiizuisli  never  to  take  another 
weiiian  to  wife,  hut  his  f,'rief  was  soon  in  S(jnu'  de^rree;  ah- 
<url)ed  in  anxiety  for  the  fate  of  his  infant  son.     To  preser\(( 
Its  life,  he  descended  to  the  otlice  of  Uiirse,  so  defrradinfr  in 
llie  eyes  of  a  Chipewyaii,  as   ])aitakin:.'  of  the  duties  of  a 
wiiinaii.      He  swaddled  it  in  sott   moss,  fed   it  with  hroth 
made  from  the  llesh  of  the  deer,  and  to  still  its  cries  applied 
it  to  his  breast,  jaaying  earnestly  to  the  <.'reat  >hister  of  Lilo 
tu  assist  his  endeavors.     The  force  of  the  powerful   jiassicai 
iiv  which  he  was  actuated  produced  tlit*  same  eft'ect  in  his 
case  as  it  has  done  in  some  others  which  arc  recorded  :  a 
♦liiw  of  milk  actually  took  place  from  his  breast.      He  sue- 
LL'L'ded  in  rearing  his  child,  taught  him  to  be  a  hunter,  and 
16  X 


I      '  ( 


\.\ 


■# 

)      / 


M 


;    ^ "  ^^ 


tr 


*M2 


AKC'J'ic  vova«;es. 


I 


m 


I  .  ( 


'vvlicii  lir  aft.'iiiii'd  the  ni/f  nf  iiuiiilinod,  (•liusr>  him  n  wit'c  IriMn 
llif  triltc.  'I'lir  old  iiiuii  krpt  liis  vow  in  iifvcr  taking'  a  nc. 
Olid  wile  liiiiiM'lt',  l)iil  iif  di'li;.'lit»'d  in  Iriidiiii,'  his  son's  tliil- 
di'cii,  und  wlii'ii  lii>  d!iui.dilcr-iii-l!i\v  ii>ed  to  iiilciicrt',  saviiiii 
that  it  \\iis  Mot  the  occupalioii  of  a  man,  lie  was  wont  to  it- 
|»ly,  that  hi'  hud  prouilsrd  to  thi-  ;-'i-fal  Master  of  Lit'i-,  if  lii, 
<"hihl  was  s|i;in'd,  never  to  he  proiid,  hke  the  other  Indian*. 
Jle  used  to  ineniioii,  ton,  as  a  certain  proof  of  the  approhatioii 
of  I'rovideiice,  thiit  althoiu'h  he  was  alwa\s  ohli^red  to  caiiv 
liis  eliihl  on  his  hiick  wiiiie  hiiiitini:.  yet  it  never  rou-ifd 
a  moose  l)y  its  <ries,  heini:  always  |»artiridarly  still  at  tho>e 
limes.  Our  inforniant  (Mr.  Went/.el)  added,  tliat  he  had  ott- 
eii  .seen  this  Indian  in  his  old  aiie,  and  that  his  lelt  hreasl.  even 
then,  retained  the  imnsnal  size  it  hud  uciiuin^il  in  his  occupa- 
tion of iinise." — 1*.  l.")7,  l.Jlj. 

Siiiiiidar  as  thi.s  cnsc  jiifiy  nppt^'ii",  Dr.  Kicliardsuii  is 
qiiito  correct  iii  .sliititiy  tliat  tlmrc  iiro  otlier.s  on  record 
in  W'hicli  the  siiiiu;  ellerts  precisely  won;  produced.  iukI 
Hiiionii;  wliicli  is  tliat  recorded  by  the  Hiiroii  von  Hiiin- 
holdt  ill  his  Soiitli  .\meri(;!Ui  travels,  and  whicli  some  of 
th(^  physiolo<;ists  of  that  day  proiiotiiiced  to  la;  impossi- 
ble, wliile  they  were  achiiiiciiii;  iiiid  (Udendiiii;  other  sto- 
ries not  less  miractdous.  It  is  not  stife,  in  this  aue  of 
wonderful  discoveries,  to  prononnco  <h><,Mnatically  what 
is  inid  what  is  not  ])ossil)le.  IMiysiolof^ists,  ami  physi- 
cians, and  snri;eons  may  say,  as  soin(<  have  said,  that 
man  has  not  been  ^dfted,  as  woman  is.  with  lacteons  nu- 
triment ;  but  common  sense  may  leatl  to  the  presumption 
thiit  both,  beinir  constituted  of  llie  same  materials,  and 
supplied  with  similar  ylands,  may,  by  some  «'xtraor(hn}n"y 
circiuiistance — "  th(»  force  of  powerful  passion,"  Jis  Dr. 
Kichardson  observes — produce  like  ellects.  Tlit^  opiii 
ions  of  two  of  the  mo!>t  emiiHMit  physiolou;ists  may  lure, 
be  giv(ui.  Masiendic^  says,  "  Tiiouifh  the  secretion  of 
milk  seem.s  proper  to  women  after  })arturition,  it  ha;? 
been  sometimes  seen  in  virt;ins,  luid  even  in  man." — 
(Magendie's  l*l/i/s/o!o<>i/.)  And  Kicherand  says,  "There 
have  been  known  men  in  wliom  a  loni::-contimied  titilla 
tion  of  the  bretisls  had  determined  so  considenible  an  ai- 
fhix  of  the  humors,  that  there  oozed  from  them  a  whit 
ish,  milky,  saccharine  fluid,  not  imlike  tlu;  milk  of  a 
woman." — (HiclnN-iind's  l*/ti/s/oli)ui/.)  To  say  that  a 
thing  is  impossible    is  ti  very  easy,    but   not  a  convin- 


■'i 


rUANK.I-I\     AM)    KlLIIAKDSnv'.S    J(>LKNI::V.      243 


ciiiii  ^V}ly  of  s«'ftliiic  a  (lispulcd  question.  AVlini  Sic- 
plifiisoii  coiistriictiMl  the  lirst  railroiid  liftwrcii  lii\('i|)oo| 
iMiil  ■^lilll('ln'st('|•,  in'iir  twi'iity  yt'iirs  n^o.  iniil  asx-itfil 
tliiit  its  spcrd  would  cxct'cd  .sixfccn  miles  mm  hour,  it 
wiis  Iiiiii;Ii(m|  at  l)y  a  f^rciit  liiwyer  (ii  senior  wnmuler), 
employed  iiufimst  the  lull,  who  asserted  d(»L:matic!illy 
that  siieh  )i  speed  was  im|)o>sil)|«« ;  hut  Stephenson, 
somewhat  nettled,  called  out,  *•  Instead  ot"  sixteen,  I  can 

very  ini|)ediment   was 


make  it  sixty,  it   necessary 


I-: 


thrown  in  tlie  way  of"  estal)li>irm^  a  di«i|ant  electrical  tel- 
egraph :   hut  the  c(mlidenc(^  wliich  a  tew  had  in  I'rol'e 


nr  \V  Intatstone  carrierl  the  pomt,  and  a  conununicatiou 
can  now  ho  held  with  l*ortsmouth  troiu  Ijondon  (with 
their  two  distant  //  ninni,  even)  in  a  very  tew  minutes — ■ 
a  sin;^le  signal  in  halt"  a  second:  in  tact,  electricity  re- 
;:ards  neither  time  nor  space 


11 


ow  many  fiii/ios.si 


hili- 


would  orrlinary  people  meet  with  in  tin*  agencies  of 


In 


electricity, 


ualvi 


inism,    and    inaiiiietism,   one     or   all    o 


wliich  may  almost  he  looked  on  as  tin;  lite  and  soul  of 

the   material  of  our  world,  daily  manifesting  the  truth 

that  *•  we  ani  yet  only  on  the  threshold  of  discovery 

Si 

lirf"or(>  liis  death. 


r  llimii)hrey  Davy's  words,  uttered  but  a  short  tinirt 


'^Po  return,  after  this  (hyrossion,  to  our  vovaixers.  As 
soon  as  the  timnher  of  people  to  l)(»  employed  was  com- 
])leted,  consistiii<^  of  sixteen  Canadian  voyagers,  their 
KM<,dish  attendant.  .Fohn  Hephurn,  two  interpreters,  to 
lie  icceived  at  tlie  (ireat  Slave  l^akiNand  one*  Chipewv- 
aii  woman,  and  their  ])i-ovisions  shipped,  they  all  em- 
liarked  on  the  ISth  of  .July,  in  high  glee,  and  the  cre.WH 
nftho  tliree  canoes  comnuMiced  a  lively  paddling  song  on 
leaving  the  .shore,  which  was  continued  till  out  of  sitiht 
nf  the  house.  On  tlu^  'Jlth  they  reached  Moose-deer 
Island,  n  post  of  the  Northwest  (.'ompany,  and  eiiiraged 
I'ierre  St.  Germain  as  interpreter  for  the  Copper  In- 
dians. On  the  L'Hth  they  arrived  at  Fort  Providence, 
situated  on  the  nortiieastern  side  of  (rreat  Slave  Lake. 
They  found  hert^  Mr.  WiMit/el  and  the  second  interpret- 
er. Jean  Haj)tiste  Adam.  Tlie  duties  allotted  to  the 
former  wert?.  the;  inanagtmient  of  the  Indians,  the  siiper- 
intendiMicti  of  th(!  Canadian  voyagers,  the  ohtaining  and 
distributing  provisions  and  other  stores,  all  of  which  ho 


r  r 


Ml 


211 


AIICTIC    VUV AG Krt. 


II 


<  I 


was  \v«!ll  (|niiliti<'i|  to  pcrfonn,  linvin^  horn  twenty  ycnrs 
in  llif  (•(luiiirv.  HiMt;,  too,  lln-y  wcrii  wjtitrd  on  In  ilm 
cliift  1)1  the  Indiiiiis,  niinirti  Aktiilrlm.  lie  niidli'  k 
NprtMrli,  puipnriiiin  ilia!  lie  rcjuici'd  to  sw.  .such  ^n-at 
rliict's  on  liiri  laml  ;  that  his  trilx;  was  poor,  hnt  tht-v 
loved  white  men,  who  had  iieen  their  hentM'actors ;  sanl 
he  would  attend  them  to  the  end  of  their  jonriu'V,  and 
would  do  all  he  could  to  provide  them  with  the  means 
ol'suhsistence.  l-'rankliii,  ot" eourse,  made  a  Huitahh;  ac- 
Kno\v|ed;;ment  in  retui-n. 

( )n  the  -Jd  ol"  August  ihey  left  Kort  Providence,  on 
their  way  to  tln^  ('o|)|)er  Miu<<  Kiver,  the  party  consi>t- 
iny;  of  six  Kn^lislimen,  six  Canatjiaii  voyauers.  and  three 
interpreters,  to  which  were  added  Akaitcho  and  his  In- 
d.aiis.  'Die  details  of  the  journey  as  I'ar  as  l''(M"t  Knter- 
priso,  on  the  hanks  of  Winter  Lake,  the  difficulties  thai 
occurred  in  the  navi<^ation  of  the  numerous  rivers  and 
lakes,  and  the  crossiiiii  of  portaiies,  could  yive  little  or  iki 
informati(Mi  of  inti'rest.  to  the  j;eneral  reader,  and  nIuiII 
tliereforo  he  omitted.  Sullice  it  to  say,  thai  after  nu- 
merous dil'ticnlties,  expt!rienc<'d  from  scarcity  of  provi- 
sions for  the  party  that  attended  them,  impeiliments  of 
Muvination,  and  the  s»>vere  lahor  of  the  frecpu-nt  porta^^es, 
thoy  were  ylad  to  arrive,  on  the  "JOtli  of  August,  after  a 
^slow  and  tedious  |)rojfress.  at  tlie  spot  where  it  was  de- 
cided to  winter,  and  wliich  was  distant  ahout  ').')()  miles 
from  (v'hi|)t^wyaii.  Captain  Franklin  stales  their  journey 
hri«!lly  thus  : 

'■  The  counted  length  of  th(»  poitajres  we  had  crossed  since 
leaviuj^  Fort  I'mvidenct^  is  twenty-one  stJitute  miles  aiitl  a 
half;  aad  as  our  men  had  to  traverse  each  portajje  lour  tiim- 
with  a  load  of  ]!>0  ixMnuls,  and  return  three  times  lij^litjiirs 
walked  la  the  whole  upward  of  tnie  hundred  and  lifty  miles. 
Tin*  total  leiiL'th  of  lair  voyage  hum  Chipeuyan  is  five  liuii- 
dred  and  lifty-lhiee  miles.  In  the  afteniiMni  (he  says)  we 
rejid  rlivine  service,  and  otlered  our  ihanksLMvinLT  tf>  lla;  Al- 
mii.dity  for  his  froodin'ss  in  havinir  hmu^dit  us  thus  far  on  our 
journey;  a  duty  which  we  never  neglected,  when  stationary, 
on  theSiihhath." 

IJeforo  the  termination  of  the  last  journey,  however, 
the  Canadian  voyagers  hecame  discontented,  and  threat- 
ened not  to  procei'd  ftUAvard  unless  mort;  food  was  giv»'n 
to  tliein  ;  and  Franklin,  after  addressing  tliein  in  the 


i-i"  i  V 


1 

M  I '  1 


FRANKLIN    AM)    RICH ARDS()\\s    JolRNHV.    '^1") 

stroimcst  iniimHT  on  the  (liniircr  nf  iii«.iiliitr'iiiiiiti(ni.  mid 
his  (It'lrniiiimtiiiii  to  iiilhrt  the  hriivirst  |MiinshniiMit  (Hi 
iuiy  who  should  rt'l'iisc  to  procrod,  admits  that  thrir 
hnidsliips  wet'c  ot'  II  kind  timt  t't>NV  would  Hiipport  with- 
out iiiunniiriii^',  mid  iioiit*  coiiid  witiioss  without  a  siii- 
ct'ii'  pity  lor  thoir  sull'oriiiiis.  Krhcf",  howcvor,  was  at 
hiuid  hy  fho  arrival  of  some  hiiiitrrs  with  tho  (.•aiTass«'s 
ot'  roitidoi'r. 

(  >ii  arriving;  at  their  dostiiiatioii.  the  ('miadians  set 
(iii'ilially  about  tlic  m^ctioti  ol'  a  house  lor  their  winter 
(jiiarlers.  to  which  was  yiveii  tiie  name  of  /'»/•/  llnln' 
jirisi,  a  name  that,  in  relereiice  to  tut  ore  events,  miiiJil 
with  nrrn\  and  deplorahh-  propiiety  he  changed  to  that 
of  the  '•  House  of  Misery,  liameiitation,  and  Woe." 
The  anxiety  felt  by  {"'ninkliii  ol  i;ettiii^  on  to  the  north- 
ward, notwithstanding  the  opinion  ot'  all  tiiat  the  late- 
ness of  the  season  mid  the  prohahle  want  ot'  provisions 
would  make  such  an  attempt  inexpedient,  and  Akaitcho 
liiivini;  positively  refused  to  let  his  Indians  proceed, 
Franklin  remonstrated  with  this  chief;  and.  continuing 
to  press  the  matter,  \n>.  answered  with  some  warmth  : 

"  Well.  I  liHve  M.iid  every  tliiiii.'  I  can  ur;,'e  to  dissiiiulo 
voa  fi'oiii  ^'oiiiLT  on  this  service,  mi  which  it  seems  vou  wish 
til  siicrilice  your  own  lives,  as  well  as  the  Indians  who  iiii;.'lit 
iillcnil  you:  however,  it',  alter  all  I  have  saiil,  voa  are  de- 
tcriniiied  to  ;,'(>,  sonic  of  my  yonnu'  men  .shall  join  the  partv, 
lirc'Hise  it  shall  not  he  said  that  we  peniiilted  voa  to  die 
iiliinc  alter  liavinu  hroii;.'ht  you  hither;  hut,  Iroin  the  inoinent 
fhev  eiril)ark  in  the  canoes.  I  and  mv  relatives  shall  lami'iit 
llicin  asdcid."— I*. -J-J."). 

This  speocli  of  tho  chief  did  not  fail  to  make  an  im- 
pression on  l''ranklin,  wlio,  after  communicafini:  to  his 
officers  what  had  passed,  it  was  agreed  hy  all  that  n 
party  should  he  sent  forward  only  for  the  pur|)os(*  of 
iiscertainiiiii  the  distance  and  si/e  of  the  ( "opper  .Mine 
Kiver;  and  tho  two  youin:sters,  Mack  and  Hood,  were 
dispatched  on  that  service  in  a  lifjht  canoe,  havinj;  witli 
them  the  interpreter.  St.  (iermain,  oi^lit  Canadians,  and 
(Mie  Indian.  Franklin,  however,  ut  all  times  unwilling 
to  impose  a  task  on  otliers  of  which  he  did  not  take  ,i 
siian^  liimself,  says  that  J)r.  Ixichardsoii  and  he  deter- 
mined on  inakini;  a  pec/isfrian  excursion  to  th(»  Copper 
Mine  River,  leiiviiia;  Mr.  Went/el   to    suiierinteud   tlio 

X  .' 


, 


>r     1' 


W^^HSPIP 


mmmmm'mmfmmmm 


>       I 


I  • 


I 


(-1      . 


\ 


»':,ff 


^         ( 


i>n; 


AKc'iic    NOV  \(;i;s. 


hiilldiii^s.  Accnr(liiiL;l>  .  tlii\\  set  uiit  on  lln-  I'lli  nt  Sc|i- 
t4'iiilM>r,  and  hiiviii;j;  .snUi-rcil  nnicli  tVoiii  snow  iiml  cnlil. 
rciichrd  tilt' ( 'n|»|)cr  .Mnif  llivcrnn  l\\^^  \:U\\.  nnd  wtin 
iriiiil  l<i  !:rl  lijick  to  I'oil  l'!ntiT|»risc.  Iiavni^  traM'iscd  (i!i 
tool  iiltont  •■ii:lit\  mmIc-<.  (  >n  tlir  sanif  day  liacU  ami 
Hood  n'iniiifd  troni  their  iiis|)c(tion. 

"  1  \\.iN  uiiK'li  |i|i'aM'(|  (>ays  iiaiiUliii)  u  illi  iIm-  alili-  inan- 
IliT  la  wliirll  tlior  n|li(i  r-.  rxcillli '( I  tlh'  M'lvlcr  l||c\  ]\:\i\ 
liri'ii  (li-^iiiih'lit'd  iijion.  and  \\a>  L'latilii'd  to  learn  tVorii  tlirm 
tliat  tlirir  innijiaiiion^  li.id  cundnrlt'd  llieni-eKes  exin  ni>  K 
well,  ;nid  liiiriie  llir  liiliu'nes  nt'  tlic  jiiiirnev  most  i'Ih'i'I  liilK  . 
't"lie\  sraireK  had  e\er  nmie  than  >nllieicMl  luel  to  Imil  tii" 
keide,  and  were  L'earrallv  nhl'iLred  to  lie  down  in  di.ir 
wet  clothes,  and,  eonseijneiiils,  Mitleri'd  nnieh  from  cold."  — 
I'. -,':):. 

Soon,  lioueNcr,  alter  tlie  parties  had  retin'ned  to  the 
lort,  it  was  stated  hy  the  winterini:  party  at  l""ort  En- 
terprise that  they  had  heen  apprised  that  the  provisions 
tln'y  hiid,  and  were  likely  to  ohtain.  woulil  not  sntlice 
for  their  joiirney  to  the  sea  uiu\  alon<:  the  coast,  and 
that  the  aniniiinit loii  and  clolhini:  had  not  ccnne  up  tVoni 
the  southward  :  Mr.  Hack,  t hi-relore.  with  that  /.t  al  and 
actnity  hy  wha  h  he  had  particularly  distiuunished  hini- 
seir.  \ohniIeered  to  set  out.  on  the  l-lh  of  <  >ctol)er. 
with  Mr.  Went/el.  two  ( 'auiidians,  two  Indians  anil 
tlu'ir  wi\t's.  and  i-etiirn  to  I'ort  I'rovideiice.  and,  it"  nec- 
essary, to  ( 'hipewyan,  to  ohtain  and  hasten  the  •.•e(|uiriM| 
su|)plies.  This  joiu'iM'y  was  pertoiaiu'd  on  foot,  in  the 
midst  of  wintei".  and  was  successlul.  \\'eiit/el  returned 
from  l'ro\idi'nce  in  the  nmnth  o|"  |)ec(Muher,  aceoui|)a- 
ined  hy  two  Ksipiiuiaux  interpreters,  whom  they  found 
ill  l'"oi"l  l'ro\  ideiice,  where  they  had  arrived  from  the 
neiuhhorhood  of  ( 'hestertield  inlet;  theii"  lonu.  unpro- 
iiounceahle  uaiues  were  now  con  .-rted  into  those  of 
,\ui:ustus  and  .Imiiiis;  the  foiaiu'r  luiderstood  a  little  ot' 
the  Knulish  lanyuaut'.  Hack,  always  aleit  when  duty 
re(piire(l  his  exertion,  pidceeded  t(»  ('hipewyan. 

Some  tiaits  of  tin-  Indian  character  are  uiveii  in  tin* 
report  of  his  lou<:  aiai  perilous  journey,  and  of  the  ciai- 
duct  (d"  the  ludauis.  whi(  h  deserve  to  he  here  noticed. 
A  siujile  instance  may  he  sullicient  to  ^tiim|»  tlu'ir  (diar- 
ijcter.  "  (  >ne  ot'  tin-  women  caught  a  line  pike  hy 
i.'iuking  ii  hole  in  ihi-  ici'.  which  she  gave  lo  us:  the  In- 


VR.WKMN    AM)    UUII AKI)S0n':-J    Jot.UNKY.    217 


111'  Sf|i- 
iikI  niM, 
ml   Were 

'ist'd  nil 
ii(-i\    ;iii(| 

ill'     IIDIII- 

llliv     li;i<| 

'urn  tln'iii 

Mniinls 

ii'itImIK  . 

huil   III" 

ill    tli.ir 

.uM.-  — 

■(I   to  till- 

■'ult    I'JI- 

fn\  isidiis 

t    siiriicr 

liist.  iiml 

lip  tViiiii 

/«  .11  iiml 

kmI  liiiii- 

<  U'tohrr. 

iaiis   iiiiil 

1,  it"  iitM- 

','f(|uinM| 

it,  ill  till* 

rctiiniril 

icotnii|iii- 

cy  I'm  1 1  id 

fniiii   till' 

L'.  iiiipio- 

tluisc     (if 
I   litllc  nl' 

luMi  duly 

I. 

I'll  ill  tlin 
the  cdii- 
lioticcd. 

icir  (diiir- 
piku    liy 

:   llif  lii- 


diniis  positively  rt'liiNcd  to  |»iiiliiki'  ol  it,  liom  ||h>  idf.'i 
(lis  \\i'  iil'tiTWllld  Iriinifd)  tllilt  \vr  slioiild  not  lilivo 
siitricioiif  for  oiirsc|\»'s  :  '\s»'  ."iit  iicciistoiiH-d  to  ,st;ii-\ii- 
lioii,'  said  tliry,  '  liiit  you  jut  not.'  '"  TIk*  Indians  and 
tlit'ir  wives  roniplaiiied  of  illness  and  want  of  rest,  wliicii 
induced  liack  to  serve  out  to  tlieiii  ii  lla;:on  ol  iiii.xeil 
sjiirils,  "  It  was  a  siitistiictioii  to  iiie."  lie  says,  "to  lie- 
liold  these  poor  creatures  eiijoyiiiii  themselves,  tor  they 
liad  hehaved  in  the  most  eNemplary  and  active  manner 
lowii.d  the  party,  and  with  a  <ienerosity  ami  s\nipatliy 
s'Idom  toiind  even  in  the  more  /•ivili/ed  parts  of'  the, 
world:  and  the  attention  and  aliectioii  which  they  man- 
itcsted  toward  their  wi\es  eviiued  a  lieiM'\olence  of 
disposition  and  goodness  of  nature  which  could  not  |';ii| 
III  secure  the  approhation  oC  tlie  iiios|  indillerent  oh- 
^erver.''  Another  instance,  while  it  conveys  some  idea 
t^t  tint  privation  to  which  the  par'y  wei«'  exposed  with 
ri'iiMrd  to  lood,  shows  the  desiie  ol"  the  Indians,  in  tlio 
midst  oltlu'ir  own  siitlt'rin;:s,  lo  admiiiisler  to  the  n'lief 
ol" the  straiii:<'is. 

"  ( )iie  III"  niir  iiieTi  caiiL'lit  ;i  li>li,  w  liiiii,  w  llli  the  a>si>taiici' 
i>\  some  wei'd  scniped  tVom  llie  roi  ks  {fn/ir  i/r  rorhi),  l|i;it 
.'itliirds  a  ^dnliiioii>  siii)slaiici',  made  iir<  a  tnler.-dile  supper; 
il  was  iinl  of  tlie  nio>t  cjjoice  kind,  yet  ^'itod  eiMiii;.'!]  for 
llllliurv  men.  While  ue  were  (iitintr  it  1  perceived  one  iif 
ihe  woiiini  liiisilv  eiiiplii\ed  MiapiiiL'  an  old  skin,  willi  tlm 
rniiteiits  (if  wliiili  lirr  lin^liaiid  preMiiteii  IIS.  'I'liey  coTisi>t- 
1(1  III  pniinded  ini'.il.  tat,  and  a  i:if.'i'ii'  pinpoilioii  ot  Indiiiirs 
.Hid  (leer's  JKiir  tliiiii  either;  iind  tlinii-li  .-iich  a  mixliiie  m.iy 
nut  ;i|ipeMr  \eiv  iilliiiiiiLr  1o  an  I'.iiL'li^ii  sloinacli,  it  Wiis 
lhnu^;|it  a  i.M-e;il  hiMirv  atli'r  ihrei-  dii\s'  jirivjitiiiii  in  these 
I  ln'erless  rei/ions  ol  \nieric;i.  Indeed,  had  it  not  heeii  lor 
liii'  preciiiitiiiii  ami  L'enerositv  ot  the  Indi.uis,  ue  must  liavo 
•_'iiiie  without  siisleiiiiiice  until  we  reniind  the  torts." — I'. 
•.'?:!,  'i:  I. 

Ihick.  ill  this  dreadtiil  journey,  was  not  only  exix)sed 
to  starvation  and  the  extremity  of  cold,  hut  also  to  \\u\ 
'laiim-r  of  perishiiii:;  in  some  of  the  lakes  whiidi  they  had 
to  cross  (III  foot.  <  >n  a  iii'irow  hranch  ol'  the  Slav(» 
Lake  he  t"ell  tliro)iL:Ji  tile  ice.  Init  escapeil  without  in- 
jury :  on  another  occasion  the  ice  hent  so  that  it  re- 
(^iiired  the  utmost  sjieed  to  avoid  ("allins:  tliroii:;!!  whero 
ii  i;a\  •  way.  as  it  .seeiirs  to  have   done  lit  every  step  ho 


I 


I       ' 


Mti 


mm 


*  I 


iilB 


Ai;('iir    V(»VA<;Hr«. 


lonlw  III  siiurl.  it  w;is  little  less  flum  IllinifllloilS.  rui;- 
siili-riii^  the  sc.isdii  iiinl  tin*  severity  nl'llie  winter,  tliii!. 
lie  ever  retiiriieil  sate,  which,  hiiwever.  he  Inn!  the  ^immI 
r<irliiiie  to  do  on  the  I  Till  of  .Miircli.  vvlieii  he  iinivid  at, 
l''ort  I'", nterprise.  where,  he  says.  •'  I  hml  the  pleiiMire 
of  Mieetini:  my  tViemls  all  in  ;;ooil  liealth.  alter  an  nli- 
sence  of  ni'iiily  live  niontlis,  dnririii;  which  time  I  had 
traveled  IIHl  miles  on  snow-shnes,  and  had  no  other 
roverinu  at  ni<:ht.  in  the  wood  tiian  a  hianket  and  drei 
.sivin.  with  tlu'  thermometer  iVeiiiieiitly  fit  — In  ,  and 
once  III  — r)7  '.  and  sometimes  |mssin«;  two  <tr  three 
days  w'lhont  tas'ini:  food."  W'tdl  may  l''ranUlin  sa\  . 
"  I  had  every  reason  to  he  nmcll  pleased  with  Ins  con- 
diici  on  this  ardiioiis  nndertakini;." 

With  ret:ard  to  the  tem|)eralm'e  (dtlie  winter,  it  was 
not  improved  hy  the  more  northern  situation  ol'  I'ort 
I'lnterjirise.  Aiiiriistns  spoUe  so  highly  ol'  the  warmth 
ol"  a  snow-honse.  that  he  was  employed  in  the  hiiildiii;: 
ol"  one.  which  he  did  alter  a  very  sjieedy  and  clever 
operation,  and  ol"  which  ('aptain  I'^ranUlin  has  ^iveii  a 
description  and  plan:  hnt  as  I'arry  has  siipplieil  hotli. 
ohlained  Ironi  the  very  same  peo|)|»',  ilu'V  need  not  here 
he  repeated.  {"'ranUlin  says,  "The  purify  of  the  male 
rial  olwliii  h  the  honse  was  framed,  the  elei^aiice  ol'  its 
ronstrnction,  and  the  transparency  of  its  walls,  which 
transmitted  a  very  pleasant  hiiht,  i;:ive  it  an  appearaiict* 
fai'  superior  to  a  marhle  hinldin^,  and  one  miuhl  siii"\ev 
it  with  feeliiiiis  soiiiewhal  akin  to  those  produced  by  the 
contem|ilation  of  a(irecian  temple  reared  hy  I'hidias; 
hoth  are  trimnphs  of  art,  inimitahliH  in  their  kinds." 
Like  many  of  t  lie  ( irecian  temples,  lln^y  loo  are  covered 
hy  domes,  hmit  on  the  principle  of  an  arch,  which  is 
])«>rlectlv  iinth'rstood  hy  tiiem.  We  have  had  maii\ 
learned  dis(|iiisitions  on  the  origin  •'!  the  arch,  whicli 
some  say  was  copied  from  natnre;  the  poor  isolated 
Ks(piiman\,  evidently  an  ori*:inal  people,  nnlike  to  any 
other  in  physical  apptMiraiice.  had  natun*  only  to  con- 
sult, in  which,  with  their  own  inueimify.  as  \ve  have 
leiuvied  from   I'ariy.  they  are  hy  no  means  delicieiit. 

In  |)ecemher.  I'^ranklin  has  i^iven  a  stalemeiil  ot  iho 
SPveritN  of  the  cold,  which  is  not  Mion<  intens(!  than 
I'liclv  «'\p(>rieneed  ; 


FRWKr.IN    AM)    KICIIARDHONrf    JorUN'I'Y.    219 


"  TIlc  wcithrr  (Imiiitr  lliis  liiniitli  Wiis  tlic  cdldest  \\r  rx- 
[iniciicid  (liiriiif/  our  rcsidcncr  in  Aiiitii(;i.  'I'lir  llifiitmtii- 
clrr  siiiiU  nil  (iiic  (i((;i.si(iii  in  .')7  Iwlnw  /en).  hikI  iirvcr  ri>-.c 
lii'\(iii(l  i>  '  iiltovc  ;;  ;  till'  /ii»';iii  liir  tlic  iniiiitli  was — -^'J  7. 
Dnriiiu'  tlicsr  iiilnisr  cuM-..  liDwcvrr,  tlic  ;ilm(i>|(liirr  w.t.s 
j.'<'iii'ially  <iiliii.  ami  llir  wuuil-i hIIitm  iiiid  ullirr.x  wnit  uUmii 
llicir  uidiiiaiy  nc(ii|>atiniis  witlioiif  iisiiiL'  any  cxirani-diiiarv 
|iir(  aiiliuiis,  yet  witlioiit  rccliiii,'  aiiv  liad  ctlrcls.  Tlicv  liad 
tlii'ir  rriiidrcr  shirt-  (ni,  liatlimi  niittcii-;  litn-d  w  ifli  Iilatikifn, 
and  lurrcd  caps;  liiit  imrir  of  them  iisi'd  anv  drf.nsi"  \\>i  tlic 
l:iii',  iirir  ilid  tlifv  need  to  do  so.  Iiidiid  \vr  liavr  alnadv 
iiH'iitiiiiirtl  lliat  tin-  lirat  is  alistraclcd  iiinst  ra|»idl\  I'rnin  tlii« 
ImkIv  diiriiii:  stroll;^'  hrcc/.cs  ;  and  must  nf  iliosc  wlin  liavi« 
[irrislird  hfini  culd  in  this  (••iiiiitry  havr  tidh-ii  a  sa<  titic  c  lo 
thi'ir  [(('in:,'  ovi-r'takfii  un  a  laki-,  or  olhrr  ini>-lirltj-n'd  [ilacc, 
liy  a  storm  of  wind.  'I'lir  intnisi'  colds  were,  however, 
drtrinnnlal  to  ns  in  another  way.  'I'lic  trees  I'ro/.e  to  their 
very  centers,  tiiid  liecanie  as  hard  as  stones,  and  more  ditlic  ulf 
tn  (lit.  Some  of  the  a\es  \ver<'  liroUeii  daily,  and  l>y  the  end 
of  the  month  \ye  had  only  one  left  that  was  lit  i'or  felling 
trees.  \\\  intrustiiiL'  it  on'y  to  one  ol'  the  [)arty  who  had 
hc'-ii  hred  a  car|ti'nter,  and  who  conid  use  it  with  dexterity, 
it  was  rortiinately  prcseryed  until  tin-  arriyal  of  our  men  v.ith 
others  from  Fort  l'ro\  idencc. 

"  A  thermometer.  hniiLr  in  our  liednKim  af  the  distance  of 
Hixtceii  feet  from  flie  fire,  hut  exposed  f{»  its  direct  radiatioti, 
stood,  eyeti  in  the  daytime,  occasionally  at  !.'>  helow  /ero. 
anil  was  ohserved  more  than  once,  previous  to  the  kindlini., 
ol  the  lire  in  the  moriiiiii:,  to  he  its  low  as  10  helow  zero. 
On  twti  of  these  occasions,  tlie  chfoiiometi-rs  (\os.  -.'I  ll»  and 
!21.')| ),  which  during  the  iii::ht  lay  under  .Mr.  Mood's  and  Or 
Ificliardson's  pillows,  stopped  while  they  were  dressing'  thein- 
.Kelves."— I'.  ^.'.Vl,  «,»,-,,-,. 

Ill  Olio  of  the  fmiiilit's  lliat  tVcipie.ifed  tlie  house  was 
a  uood-lookiii;;  <<;ii'l,  eoiiceriiin^  wiioiii  Ciiptaiii  Fraitkliii 
fiiVi'H  tlio  t'ollowinu  iim^cdote  : 

"1  may  remark,  that  the  daiit:hter,  whom  w<*  desicrtiafed 
(ireeii-stockini:s.  from  her  dress,  is  considered  l»v  her  trilie 
to  he  a  i,Meat  lieanty.  Mr.  Hood  drew  an  accurate  portrait 
ol  her,  althoiiu'h  her  mother  was  nyerse  from  hi'i"  Hitlinir  lor 
it.  She  was  afraid,  she  saiil.  that  her  dauL'hter's  likeness 
would  itjdn<i' the  (ire.it  Chief  who  resided  in  |jiL.dand  to  .send 
for  the  oriirinal.  The  yoiini,'  lady,  howeyer,  \yas  undeterred 
liv  any  sucli  tear.  She  has  already  l»een  an  ohject  of  contest 
lietweeii  her  <-oimtr\  men.  and.  althouL'ii  under  sixteen  year.s 
of  ui.'e.  has  helutiL'ed  successiycly  lu  two  luishaiids,  luni  woi.UU 


■^ 


-e^- 


h 


'jr»() 


AKC'l'KJ   vovA(;i:s. 


h, 


S       '* 


i  j 


|iruliiii(ly   liiivr    I ii    tlii»    wile   nl'  iii:i"v   iiHtii-.   il    luf   iiinllur 

Ii.'kI  iml  ii'i|iiiii'(l  lii'i"  Hirvir's  ;is  II  iiiirx'.  ' — I'.  ".'.(I. 

'riic  iiiiirniitus  iiiclliuds  |iiir.sii('(l  l>y  ('iiplniii   l*iiir\  m 
his  winlt'r's  iiIhmIc  in  the  Arctic  rr^itms,  {'<  ;■  the  tiiniisi-- 
liiriil  iiliil  (»C(U|iiilinii  nl'  liis   priiplc,  were   not    Unnwn   In 
<';i|>tiini    l-'ninklin  ;    hnt    In*   r(|inilly    innnil    i!    nrcrssiirv, 
•  tni'in^  tilt'   (liciirv    nmntlis  they  were  sinit    np  in    l-'dil 
I  inlri'pris*',  to  Iniriisli  stinn*  l\<ii(l  of  rni|iloyinrnl.  rspt- 
ciiilly  lor  llio  oniccis  of  the  ••\|i»'(lit ion,  who,  lio\\(«\ri. 
wfio  lit  no  loss;    tln'V  WiTf  oniiiiyrd  in  wrilin;^  out  their 
ionriiiils.  cilcnliitiiii;  the  rrsiilts  ol'  llnir  ol)s('i\!itioii-.,  nml 
in  constrmtiiii;  the  (hurts  oi    thf  routes,  uliile   .Messrs. 
Hood  and  l?iicl\  \\ere  employed  in  linishin::  llieir  dniw 
inys.      'IMu»  reiuhiii;  ol'  ne\vspiip«M"s,  niii^a/.nies.  and  let 
ters    froni    MiiLllainI    was   a   source   ol'  occupation.      I'liit 
<'aptaai  l-'rankliii  has  ^i\en  a  sketch,  which  contains  ilic 
usual  routine  of  their  winter's  life  at   I'ort   Ktilerpri-^i-. 

"  In  tile  eveiiiii:^s  uc  joined  the  iiicii  ill  the  liall.  and  toi^k 
a  purl  ill  llieir  ^'auie.s,  wliicii  generally  contiiinrd  to  a  l;il.' 
Iioio';  in  short,  we  ne\  er  lonnd  the  I'liiie  in  liaiiu'  Immnv  iipiMi 
oin  iiaiids  ;  and  the  peculiar  oc(iipati"iis  of  each  of  tin  nlli- 
cers  .-itrofded  lliciii  amre  ein|)li>s  meiii  ihaii  niiiilit  at  lir.st  In- 
supposed.  I  recalculated  tile  oiisi  r\ atioiis  made  on  oin 
route;  Mr.  Mood  pioiiacted  the  (hurts,  and  made  iIhim' draw 
iiiL's  ol'  liirds.  |ilaiils,  and  lislies,  uIik  ii  can  not  appear  in  tiii-i 
work,  Itiii  which  lia\e  lieeii  the  adnnralioii  of  e\f|-\  one  who 
lias  seen  them.  I'.acii  ot  tiie  party  sediilousl\  and  .-^ipaialely 
retfuded  iheir  oh^erv  alioiis  on  liie  aniiifa.  and  Dr.  Kichaid- 
son  contrived  to  olilain  liom  miil"  i-  the  >iiiiw  sperimeiis  hC 
niii-l  of  the  lichens  ill  1  he  iieiL;hlioihciod.  and  In  ma  lie  hi  nisi  11 
acipi.iinled  with  the  niiner.iloLiv  of  ihe  >uiioinidinu'  <  tunitrv 

"The  Sahhatli  was  alw  avs  a  day  ol  rest  with  n.s;  tlie  wnnd- 
men  were  r.Mpiiied  to  provide  foi'  the  e\  iLieiicies  of  thai  day 
on  S.iliirdav.  and  the  party  \yere  dressed  in  theii'  liest  atliii'. 
Diyine  service  was  reLiiihiily  perlocnied,  and  the  Canadians 
attended,  and  hehaved  vyitli  i,'reat  decoi-inn.  aillioiiL'h  tin-) 
W(>reall  |{<iman  ( 'alholics,  and  hut  little  actpuiinled  with  iho 
lan::nai,'c  in  \yliicli  the  jaayers  were  read.  I  regretted  iiiik  h 
that  wc  had  not  a  Kieiicli  I'raver-Hook.  hnt  the  Lord's  Travel 
and  Creed  vveii-  always  read  to  lliein  in  their  own  laiii^naL'e. 

"  Onrdiet  consisted  almost  entirely  of  reindeer  meat,  varied 
tvyice  a  wi  ek  hy  lish.  and  occasionallv  hv  a  little  Hour,  Iml 
\ye  had  im  v  euetaliles  ol  aiiv  de.scfl|ilioii.  ( 'n  die  Sunday 
niorniiii:s  wc  driudv  a  »iip  of  dux 'ilate  :  hnt  oiir  ^;reatesl  lux- 
ury was  tea  (vviihoul  .^uuar),  of  vyhicli  we  re^ulaily  parlei  k 


I'KANKI.IN     AND    IIKH  AUUSON's    JOlUNKY.    251 


tulcf  !i  iliiy.  Willi  iiiiiili't'i's  tilt  :ni(l  Hlri|K  ot  Cnlluii  hliiits, 
v\i- Iui-iikmI  r;iii(ili>H;  ami  I  Ii'|iIhii-ii  !iri|iiii')'i|  ruiisidi-ralilr  skill 
ill  till'  iM.iiiiit'iK  tmr  i>\  sna|),  fi-niii  tin-  wnuil-aslirs,  lilt,  ami 
t-ill  Till'  liiniialioii  nt'sita|>  was  cniisidcrfd  a-^  latlicr'  a  iiivs- 
li  liniiH  u|iciatinii  liy  our  Caiiadiatis,  ami  in  tlirii-  hands  wa.s 
iilwavs  sii|)|i(isrd  to  liiil  it"  a  wniiiaii  a|i|»riia(  lud  llir  ki'itjc  in 
uhirli  the  Irv  was  iMiiliii^'.  Sncii  aif  our  siiiijilc  dniiirstic 
(Irl.iiU."— i'.-J.'i:!,  'j;.!». 

'I'lio  aiironi  lioindis  made  its  (ipix'araiicc  IVr(|ii(Mitly, 
Willi  iiiiii(<  ni-  less  l)iilliaiir\  .  hiit  was  nut  part ciilarly  r»'- 
iiiaikaltlc  ;  in  tlu^  iimiitli  ol  DccfiiilaT  if  was  visiMr  Iwrii- 
tv  t'iiilit  ol'tlm  limy  nii^lits.  Mr.  I'acU  ^ivcs.  in  llir  iiiir- 
liilivc  of  his  JMnnicy.  the  rnllowin^  «'\tia()i(hiiaiv  ac- 
(iHint,  whii'li  he  received  fVuin  one  ol"  the  partners  ol'  tlio 
Niiilhwest  ( 'oMipaiiy,  hut  lie  does  not  voiirli  lor  the 
Iriitli  <d'  it.  "  lie  was  travelinu  in  a  canoe  in  the  Miiij;- 
li^h  Uiver,  and  had  landed  near  the  Kettle  l''idl,  when 
ilie  conisciiiiitns  ol"  the  aurora  were  s(»  vivid  and  low, 
that  the  Canadiiins  fell  on  their  faces,  and  hei;iin  piayiiiji; 
and  crying,  learini;  they  slanild  \h'  Uilleil  ;  he  hiinseH' 
threw  away  his  mm  and  knife,  that  they  niiiiht  not  at- 
tract tlici  flashes,  !"or  they  were  within  two  feet  of  ihn 
rarfh.  flitting  aloiijj;  with  iiicredihie  swiflness,  iiial  iiiov- 
iii::  parallel  to  its  surface.  They  coiiliniie(|  for  npwiird 
<i|  fiv  ininnfes,  as  near  as  he  could  pid^e,  ami  made  a 
loud  rnsllini:  noise,  like  the  waving  of  a  llai;;  in  a  stronu; 
liM-e/e.  After  they  had  ceased  the  sky  heciime  clear, 
with  little  wmd." 

(aptain  l''ranklin.  Dr.  Kitdianlsoii,  ami  Mr.  Ilood 
were  most  atteiiti\(<  ohservers  of  the  iinrora.  ('a|)taiii 
i'lanklin  suys  that,  havinif  ohserved  the  aurora  upward 
111' two  hundred  times,  he  is  not  alile  to  tittest  the  fact  of 
ihe  noise  ascrilied  to  it.  Mr.  I'»ack.  when  on  his  jour- 
ney. I  hi"  niyht  lieiiii!;  l\\n\  says,  "the  aurora  wav  .-,0  vivid, 
iliat  we  imaiiined  m<a-e  than  once  that  we  heard  a  rns- 
!liii;_'  noise,  like  that  M'  autumnal  leaves  slii-red  liy  the 
wind:  hut  after  two  hours  of  attentiv««  listeniiiii  we  w  er»< 
not  eiilirely  con\niced  ol'  the  fact."  They  all  aiiiee  as 
III  its  infill'  uce  over  the  ma^iielic  needle.  |'y  a  imin- 
ler  of  expermiiTils.  it  was  found  that.  111  ceilain  positions 
n\'  the  heams  and  arches,  the  needle  wiis  consideraldy 
drawn  aside,  and  more  parli(  iilarl\  w  hen  the  (lashes  wcro 
Ijclwcei]  tlje  clouds  imd  the  eurlli ;  lor  it  was  als(i  iiscer- 


II 


nf  •! 


252 


ARCTIC    VOYAGFH. 


II 


i:Hi 


J    •    • 


'  [ 


\ 


'» 


tiiiin'(l  tiint  the  lirijilil  of  the  iiurorn,  'mstcail  of  hciii^.  n-i 
sii|)|)<»sf(|  hy  Mr.  Daltoti  find  others,  Ix-yomi  tlu'  rr^imi 
((ftlic  atiiiosplit'ic,  is  usimlly  not  nioic  than  six  or  seven 
liiilos  iVoni  tho  «'aith.  "  We  have  sonietinies  seen." 
Mr.  Hood  says,  "an  atteinialed  unroia  llashinj;  across  u 
hundred  (h'^'ree.s  of  the  sky  in  a  sinj^le  second  :  a  (juick- 
ness  of  motion  inconsistent  with  the  height  of  sixlv  nc 
s(!V«'nty  miles,  iho  least  which  lias  hitherto  been  uscril)e(l 
to  it." 

On  the  1st  of  .lanuary,  If^-J],  the  usual  festivities  of  the 
nt^w  year  wero  held.  The  unly  treat  tln'  people  could 
rJM'eive  was  a  little  Hour  and  fat,  hoth  luxuries;  but  the 
feast  laniiuished  for  want  of  spirits.  The  whole  month 
Avas  cold  and  lo.^uy.  .V«'t  the  Indians  declared  if  was  tin- 
warmest  they  had  known  ;  the  thermoineVer,  iiowever, 
toward  the  latter  part,  descended  to  4!)\  and  the  mean 
temperature  ot"  the  month  was  l')'''(i.  On  the  loth 
lar^e  supplies  were  received  iVom  Port  i*r<»vi(lenci>,  and 
the  people  had  their  ration  «>f  spirits  served  out  to  them 

'Poward  the  end  of  March  two  Indians  arrivecl  from 
The  I  look,  a  chief  next  to  Akaitcho  in  authority  anion:; 
tlie  ('upper  Indians:  his  band  wiM'e  statioiu'd  luMweeu 
the  Marten  and  (Ji'i'iit  Ih'ar  Lakes:  they  brouffht  olftis 
from  him  to  supply  dried  meat  on  the  hanks  of  the  ('tip- 
per M  inei  Kiver,  in  return  for  ^oods  and  ammunition. 
The  oiler  was  declined,  but  they  were  desired  to  tell 
liim  that  notes  on  the  Noi-thwest  ( 'ompaiiy 's  jiost  woiiM 
he  yiveM  for  either  provisions  or  leather  when  they  met. 
Kveu  at  this  [leriod,  l"'rankliii  says,  "the  hunt<-rs  sent 
is  no  supplies;  oirr  net  prodiuM'd  very  few  lish,  and  tint 
pounded  meat  int»mded  to  keep  for  summer  use  wa.s 
nearly  expended.  Our  meals  at  this  p(>riod  were  al- 
ways scanty,  and  we  were  occai>ionally  restricted  to  one 
in  the  day." 

r>ut  the  Indian  families  which  conjrrei;nted  about  the 
hmise,  consist injf  principally  of  women  and  chililreii,  snt- 
fered  the  most. 

'■  I  bad  oflcii  re(|Ufstfd  tlicm  to  move  to  Akjiitclio's  buL'''. 
where  tin'V  were  nmie  (eitJiiii  of  recei\iim  .^iipplirs  ;  but  ,i- 
inoHt  of  tlnni  were  >i(k  oi'  iidirni,  tbey  <lid  iml  like  to  (|HiL 
the  boii.Mt',  where  tbey  d:iiiy  reccixrd  nH'dicint's  from  |)i'. 
Hicbardsoii.  to  eii("oiuiti  r  the  t!ili;.'ue  of  ti>llov\in,u  the  move. 
iJient*'  of  a  liunliiitr-cain|»      They  cleared  away  the  snow  on 


of  hciiiir.  a-j 
i  llic  rt';:iii!i 
six  or  seven 
Dies  sei'ii." 
ill^  iicniss  ;i 
1(1 :  a  (|ui('k- 
of  sixty  111- 

LM'll  USCl'iheil 

ivitij'sot'tlie 
x'ople  coiilil 
es  ;    hut  the 

r'liolc  IMOIlth 
I  it  WHS  tile 
r,  llo\vev«!|-, 
(I  tll(*  Ilieitii 
►ii  tije  l.'jih 
vidcnco.  and 
out  to  tliein 
irriveil  iVom 
ority  auHMi^ 
ih\  ht'twreu 
•ouj;lit  olVeis 
lot"  tiu»  ( 'itp- 
UMUtunition. 
\-r(\  lo  tell 
)Ost  would 
thry  11  let. 
Miters  sent 
di,  and  tlh' 
•r  use  W!i>. 
were  al- 
•teil  to  one 

al)OUt  tlie 
lildreu,  sut- 

Iki's  lodL''". 
lies  ;  hilt  11- 
lilve  to  i|Mil 
•s  Inini  |)i'. 
U  tlie  nievc  . 
le  snow  Oil 


rilANKI.IV    AM)    1:1(IIAIIU.SOn\s    J(jURNKV.    *2o'3 

liie  site  oftlie  iintinini  eiu-iMipiiients  to  look  lor  l)oiies,  deer's 
lei't,  hits  (if  hide,  iind  other  nllld.  \\  lien  we  lieheld  tlieni 
.'liuwiug  tlie  pieces  of  huie,  imd  ixiiindini;  the  hnnes  fiir  tlnj 
purpose  of  extnictiiiir  .-nnie  noiirislinient  from  tlieiii  liv  huil- 
ini:.  we  legretted  our  iii;ihility  to  I'elieve  them.  Iiiif  htllo 
tliiMiL'ht  tli;it  we  slioiild  ninselves  he  rit'terwnrd  (h'iven  to  the 
necessity  of  ejiu'erly  coljeef  iiii,'  tliese  same  holies  a  second  timo 
tinrii  the  diinirhilh'"— r.  v!!»!{. 

'Vho,  weather  in  May  l)erain»>  warm,  and  the  approach 
of  spritjjn  was  aj^reeahly  rontirnipd  hy  tlie  liraihial  ap- 
pearanre  of  various  kinds  of  hirds  and  cd"  reindeer.  Tho 
.iveidiie  temperature  for  tlio  month  was  ahout  .'{"J",  the 
i^ieatest  h»'at  hH''.  and  tlie  lowest  \f*  :  at  th«^  end  of  tho 
month  tlie  sun  (hd  not  set.  Preparations  were  now 
iiiiide  for  the  loim  journey  down  the  Copper  Miiu*  Riv- 
er to  tilt;  coast  of  the  i*(dar  Sea,  and  alon<r  it  to  tlh^ 
eastvvard.  '^I'lie  first  party  started  on  the  -Ith  of  .lune, 
uii(h'r  the  cliarjre  of  Dr.  l\i(diardson,  consistiiifi  of  tweii- 
ty-thnM^  p«'rsons,  exclu  ive  <>\'  (hildren.  .Xmony  them 
were  lifteen  Canaihaii  v.  yagers.  .\  jiromise  was  iiiiKh? 
hy  .\kaitcho,  in  presence  of  Mr.  Wentzel  and  the  In- 
dians, that  a  deposit  of  jirovisious  should  be  made  nt 
lliis  place,  Fort  Knterprise,  previous  to  next  Seplemher, 
;is  a  resource  should  the  i)arty  return  hy  this  way;  and 
W'ent/el  undertook  to  see  this  done. 

On  tin;  l-lth  of  .lune.  all  hein^  completed,  Captain 
I'riinklin  set  olf  with  three  canoes,  drajiued  hy  tour  men 
each,  and  two  doiis.  The  stores,  the  instTuments,  and 
the  small  stock  of  dried  meat,  amountinu  only  to  ei^dity 
pounds,  were  distributed  erpialiy  anionij  Mephurn,  threo 
Ciinadians,  and  the  two  Ks(piimaux,  .lunius  and  .\ui.mis- 
liis.  .\ll  the  party  st't  out  on  foot.  On  crossing;  a  small 
hike,  Frnnklin  i'ell  in  throuijli  tlu^  ice,  and  soon  alter 
IJack  did  the  sann-,  and  .Junius  also,  with  a  lieavy  bur- 
den on  his  buck,  hut  none  (d'  them  were  hurt.  It  Wii.s 
not  till  tlie  i>lst  that  Franklin's  party  Joined  Dr.  Rich- 
ardson at  Point  Tjiike.  To  ease  the  iihmi  who  had  car- 
ried the  canoes,  the  third  canoe  was  hdt  here,  as  by  do- 
iii;:  this  three  men  were  gained  to  ussi.st  those  who  had 
become  liinio. 

It  were  tedious,  and  not  very  interesting,  to  rejieat 
tlie  details  of  tlu^  journey  over  lakes,  down  rapids  and 
ciitaracts,   over  p(»rta^es,   and   across  a  hilly   country. 


i 


)   ' 


,*r 


iif)! 


ARcrrc  voYA(;i: 


il 


I         I 


droiulfiilly  fatiguinsi  to  tlm  iiicti,  or  to  rolato  tlio  nltnrnjitt* 
sncccssos  uiiil  (lisa|)|)oiiitiM(Mits  of  llio  hunters.  It  !•, 
oiioiii,'!)  to  say  lliat  on  tin*  .'.Otli  ot'  .luiic  tliry  (Miiharknl 
on  the  (.'oppcr  Mnio  Klvcr,  wliicli,  at  a  point  callril 
Ivock-nost,  is  statod  to  bo  about  two  hundred  yards  widci, 
ten  t'oft  (b'('|),  and  to  ll(»w  wvy  rapidly  over  a  i-ocky  hoi- 
toni ;  its  banks  pict  nrosipn',  tho  hills  .sht'lvini;;  to  the  wa- 
ter side,  well  covrred  with  wood,  and  tho  suri'aco  of  the 
rocks  richly  clothed  with  lichens.  Musk-oxen  weie 
here  very  plentiful  near  the  river,  and  in  all  this  part  of 
the  country;  and,  like  the  buffalo,  hi'nl  together  iti 
bands,  so  that  out*  day  the  hunters  killed  ei^ht  cows.  It 
is  said  that  when  tw(t  or  three  men  ^(^t  so  near  a  herd 
ns  to  fn"e  at  them  iVoni  different  points,  instead  of  sepu- 
ratiny;  or  riunfin^  away,  these  animals  iinddle  closer  to- 
gether, and  several  ar(^  yeiuM'ally  killed  ;  but  if  tlu^  wound 
1)0  not  nntrtal,  they  bc^come  enraiied,  and  dart  in  the 
most  lurious  nnuuM'r  at  tht^  linnters,  who  nuist  be  vi-ry 
dexterous  to  evade  them. 

(  >n  the  7th  ol'  .Inly  they  ai'rived  at    Tlir    HooJc'.s  en- 
campment, the  Indian  chief  before  mentione(l,  who  was 


]iarticulai'ly  civil,  and  said 


'I'l 


u^  amount  ol  niea 


t  I  1 


lave 


is  very  small,  but  I  will  cheerfully  uive  yon  wliat  I  have; 
we  are  too  much  indebted  to  tlu!  whit(!  people  to  allow 
them  to  want  t'ood  on  our  lands  while  we  lia\e  any  to  v.'\\r 
ihem;"  and  lie  promised  to  remain  on  the  side  of  the 
Hear  Ijake,  which  is  near  to  tho  (.'opper  Mine  Jliver, 
til'  the  month  of  Novinnbei'.  and  to  fui'iiish  the  |»ai'ty  with 
sup|/!ies  on  their  return,  lie  too,  as  well  as  all  the  In- 
dians, earnestly  eiiti'eated  the  trav»'lers  to  be  constantly 
on  their  jiuurd  against  the  frcfachery  <>t  tlu^  Esfpiimaux. 
They  w»M"e  now  approachiii<i;  the  ('()|)per  .^lountains, 
their  encampment  beiiii;;  in  lal.  (17  1'  10",  lout;.  ll(i 
'27'  'JH"  W.:  variation  of  the  compass,  44='  11'  4;>",  and 
dip  of  the  needle,  i^7  -  ."U '  Ir^  ".  l''rom  henc<^  they  visit- 
ed tile  ( '(>j)p(M"  !\rouiitains  in  search  of  specimens  of  tlm 
ere,  aiireeablv.  as  I'ranklin   savs.  wi 


ith  I 


us   instructions 


tl 


•I' 


^tiiii;  of  l> 


It' 


lie   p'TSons,   voya^eis 
and  IndiaiiH,  incliidiiii;  the  ollicers, 

"  We  triveji'd  tor  iiinc  boms  over  a  considi'rable  space  of 
firotiiid,  but  touiid  only  a  few  small  pieces  of  native  copper. 
J'lie  inounfains  varied  in  li<'i:,'lit  from  1  "J 00  to  l.jOOfeet;  their 


rt 


rUANKLlN     A.VU    KICII  \K1).S(J\  ri    JuLK.NKV.    \i,)i> 


o  nltorniitH 
TS.  It  is 
(Miil)iirk('(l 
oint  citlltMl 
ards  wide, 
rocky  l)ni- 
to  tlic  Wii- 
[\icv  of  tl'r 

»X(MI     Wl'lf 

liis  part  nl" 
i::«'tlirr    ill 

(•(»\VS.      It 

I'ai"  a  liriil 

(I    of    S('|)ll- 

'  closer  to- 

llic  woiiikI 

lart    iti  tint 

1st  l)t'  very 

Jl'iolc's  v\\- 

l,  who  was 

icat  I  liavt! 

luf  I  have  ; 

lo  to  allow 

my  to  i:iu: 

>i(le  of  tht! 

iiK*  liivcr, 

party  with 

all  tii<^  lii- 

coiistaiilly 

^quiiiiaiix. 

loiiiitaiiis, 

Ollir.    1  1  (i 

i:;",  and 
thi'V  visit - 
t'tis  of  thti 
triictioiis  ; 

voya^tTs 


f  spa(  <*  ot 

|\('  <'((pprr. 

IfcL't;  llifir 


nniformity  is  iiitcrruptfd  hy  iiaiTow  valleys  fravcrscrl  Ity 
hiiKiil  sirciiiiis.  'I'lic  hr.si  spcciiiinis  of  niclal  we  luociircd 
wnc  aiiioiii:  the  stones  la  llicsc  valleys,  and  it  was  in  sncli 
•.ilintiotis  that  oiir  L'uides  desii'rd  us  to  search  most  carefnliv. 
It  would  apjiear,  tli;il  when  the  Indians  see  imy  sparry  >nli- 
stance  [Ji-ojertini:  ahove  the  snrliice,  thev  di;,'  then',  l»nt  lla-y 
have  no  other  rule  to  direct  them,  and  have  never  Umiid  thi« 
metal  in  its  nrii:inal  repository.  (Jar  ;,'iiides  reported  that 
thev  had  tomid  copper  in  liirtre  pieces  in  everv  pai't  of  this 
riinire  fia*  two  day>'  walk  to  the  northwest,  and  that  the  jls- 
(|aimimx  come  hither  to  search  for  it.  'I'he  animal  visits 
whi(  li  the  Cojiper  Indians  were  acca.-.tonied  to  make  to  theses 
imiimtains,  when  most  of  their  weujioiis  and  utensils  wi^'e 
made  of  copper,  have  lieen  disconliimeil  since  they  liave 
heeii  eiiahled  to  olitain  a  >apply  ot  ice-chisels  and  otlu'r  in- 
strmni'iits  of  iron.  Iiy  the  e.^talilishmeiit  of  trading-posts  near 
their  lmntintr-i:romids.'"' — 1*.  WW). 

'IMu'v  now  descended  to  that  part  of  the  fiv(>f  named 
]iy  Hearne  tlie  IJIoody  Kail.  This  rapid  is  desciila'd  as 
a  sort  of  slndvinii;  cascad»?,  ahont  three  hundred  yards  in 
letiijth.  having  a  dc'scent  of  from  ten  to  fifteen  feet,  and 
lioiinded  on  eatdi  side  hy  hii,di  walls  of  red  sandstone, 
upon  Avliich  r<'sts  a  series  (d"  lofty  un-en  liills.  Hero 
thev  caiiiiht  forty  excellcMit  salmon  and  white  lisli.  in  a 
simple  net,  helow  the  rapid.  No  trees  hail  been  seen  in 
this  day's  journey  :  l)nt  the  ui'onnd  is  w(dl  clothed  with 
irass,  and  nourishes  most  of  the  shrubs  and  beiry-bear- 
im:  plants  that  wcm'c^  met  with  north  <d'  Fort  Knterprise. 

After  nmeh  discussion,  and  urea!  npprcdu-nsion  on  I  ho 
part  of  the  Indians  and  voyauers,  resiardiiiii  the  hostility 
of  the  Ks(piimanx.  in  order  to  allay  their  fears,  .liinins 
and  Anmisliis  wen^  sent  on  to  have  a  commnnicatioii 
with  tliem;  a  very  small  party  were  fallen  in  with  at  the 
rapid  described  by  llearne,  tlieir  usual  resort;  they 
found  them  to  be  mild,  j)eaceable  cr<'atiires,  and  but  too 
jilad  to  bo  on  terms  of  friendship  witli  th(^  Indians.  They 
consisted  only  (d"  four  men  and  as  iiitiny  women,  who  at 
ninht  disappeared,  havini;;  seen,  it  is  supposed,  some  of 
Akaitcho's  Indians,  who  had  unauth<tri/.edly  followed, 
contrary  tf>  their  (diief's  promise,  and  shown  themstdves 
on  tho  hills.  It  was  at  this  place  where  I  learn*'  de- 
scribes the  dreadl'iil  massacre  of  the  Ks(piimau\  by  tho 

^  Anions:  l)r.  Kicliarilsoii'-)  'icoLniostii'iil  Oliscrvutioiir',  a  circnnistun 
tii  1  accuunt  ol'  tlic  ('(>i>[M'r  Mouataiii.!  will  ho  t'ouinl. — Ai'innilir,  AVy.  1. 


>,A 


:;>50 


ARCTIC    VUYAGKH. 


II 


i  }u  \ 

\ 


I  ', 


fliipowyuii  Tiiiliiins,  unil  tln'r«>fi»r('  nimn'il  it  tlic  "  niooilv 
l''all."  <  )ii  l-'raiiUlin  and  tlu*  party  apprttachiiiy  it  iiiil 
('li(-aiiipiii'_'.  nine  l%s(piitnaii\  app(*ai'r(l  mi  tli«>  oppusjii* 
liniik  oi"  the  river,  carryiiiy  tlirir  caiKtcs  on  tlu'ir  liacU ; 
liuf  tlicy  llt'd  oil  sci'iiii,'  the  teiifs.  Nut  only  Wert  tlit-s,. 
people  ularnied,  hut  tlie  hidiaiis  also  \v»'re  .so  teirilinl 
that  they  insisted  on  returning;  tlie  next  day;  nor  could 
I'raiiklin  prevail  on  two  hiinteis  to  remain  >vith  liiui. 
The  rediice(|  party,  however,  proceeded,  and  oiitlie  l->tli 
of. Inly  reacdied  the  sea-coast  at  the  nuMith  ot  the  ( "op- 
per  -Mine  Kiv(M",it  hein<^  only  nintMuiles  iVoiii  tlii'  Hloody 
l''all.  The  Canadian  voyagers  were  aninsed  with  their 
first  view  (»f  the  sea.  aii(l  the  seals  swiniiniiiu  ahoiit.  Imt 
soon  i^ave  way  to  desjxdideiicy  ;  lln'y  were  terrilied  at 
the  idea  <d'  a  voyage  through  iiti  icy  seu  in  hark  canoes. 


II 


epinirn  s  reiiiai 


ks,  I 


lowever,  and  tlio  wav  in  which  lie 


held  up  to  them  the  delij;hts  ot'his  Hccustomed  element, 
niaije  them  ashamed  ot  their  fears.     'J'iie  party  who  pm- 


eeeded  .imouuted  to  twenty  [)ersons. 


The  t 


iav« 


liiiii  d 


i>- 


tance  from  l*'ort  Knteiprise  to  the  mouth  of  the  river  is 
said  to  he  aliout  three  hundred  and  thirty-tour  mile>. 
The  canoes  and  hagyafio  were  dragued  over  snow  and 
lee  for  one  hundred  and  seventeen  mih's  of  this  distance. 
They  encamped  af  ten  on  the  western  hank,  at  its  juiic- 


lioii  with  the  sea. 


Tl 


le  river  is  lu'ro  a 


ihout 


a  mile  wide 


hut  very  shallow.  JJiiih  and  numerous  islands  to  s<>a- 
Nvard  fill  the  liori/.ou  in  several  points  of  the  compass  ; 
the  water  was  decidedly  salt,  and  Franklin  thinks  thai. 
Jlearne  could  have  tasted  it  only  at  the  mouth  of  the 
river,  as  he  pronounciMl  it  merely  brackisii. 

Tlie  emhurcatiou  in  two  hircli-hark  canoes  for  a  navi- 
gation along  the  southern  coast  of  the  Polar  Sea  to  \\h-. 
i'astward,  and  tlio  conunencoment  of  the  voyage,  took 
])lace  oi'  the  -Jlst  of  July,  their  dried  nu'at  and  other  pj-o- 
visions  amounting  only  to  liftt^Mi  days'  consumption. 
They  paddltMl  all  day  along  tln^  coast,  within  a  crowded 
range  of  islaiuis,  with  very  little  ice;  the  coast  covered 
with  vegi'tation ;  tlie  islands  rocky  and  barren;  abund- 
ance of  drilt-wood ;  and  as  none  comes  down  tln^  Cop- 
per Mine  River,  nor  down  any  t)ther,  except  .Miu^keu- 
//le's  Kiver,  it  was  inferred  that  an  easterly  current  pre- 
vailed.    The  least  depth  of  >v'ater,  after  two  days'  sail- 


,»        I 


rUA\KI-I\     AND    RlCir  \RDPON  H    JOJ.RVF.Y.    257 
iim,  wns  six  rnflmms.  ami  any  sliip  iiii^lit  pass  safely  !)••- 


twfcii  fill'  isliiiids  and  tlu'  inalii. 


Aft 


•  T  a  run  (il   tlui'fv- 


s.'M'ii  MliN'H,  tliry  fMicampnl  ;  the  const  Well  covj'n'il  wifli 
\t  ^ftatiun  (if  inndt'i'iifr  liciylif.  and  easy  of  a|)pr<ta(h. 
'I'd  I\V(»  groups  of  islands  tlir  nanics  of  IJcrcns  and  Sir 
(iialiani  Moore  wei'o  ^iv(•n.  Sumc  Minsclr-sli(dls  woro 
srt'ii  Ih'Ic,  tile  only  shells  met  wltli  on  the  whole  cuast. 
<  Ml  the  'Jjd  the  shore  Iteeanie  exceedingly  rocky  and  ster- 
ile, ending  in  a  steep  projectinj,'  promontory  riiariiiinMl 
uitli  ice.    Another  iironp  of  islands  WHS  named  Lawforcl. 

Hn  (ho  "J.'id  and  "Jlth,  nothiiiii  material:  a  deer  was 
Killed;  the  cnrn-nt  was  riMinin^  to  the  eastward  at  tlio 
liile  of  two  miles  an  lionr. 

•J-jtli.  'riiunder  and  rain  dnrinu  the  ni^ht  ;  the  nets 
Mipplieii  only  three  salmon-t roiit.  h'or  the  last  two  day  !4 
the  tide  rose  and  fell  alanit  nine  inches. 

■Jfitli.  A  dreary  coast ;  I'licamped  in  an  inlet,  into  wlfadi 
niucli  ice  had  drilled,  and  (»ne  ol'  the  canoes  yol  enclosed 
in  it.  '•  That  none  of  this  ice  survives  the  summ<'i-wa.s 
evident  from  the  rapidity  of  its  decay,  and  hecause  no 
II  f  (»f  last  year's  formation  was  haniiiiiLi  (ui  the  rocks." 
hrtentioii  llarhor  is  stateil  to  lie  a  secnire  aiudiorai^e, 
sheltered  from  every  wind,  hut  it  does  not  a|)i)ear  to  bo 
imiiceil  on  the  (diart. 

•J-th.  Discovered,  to  their  i^reat  mortification,  that 
two  ha^s  of  pemmican  had  heconie  moldy;  that  tlu) 
licef  was  scarcely  <'atalile  :  hut  it  was  not  so  iiiucli  th(3 
ijiiality  as  the  diminution  that  was  the  causi!  of  uneasi- 
ness. A  small  \ein  of  galena  was  discovered  traversinj^ 
uneiss  rocks,  hut  they  had  no  means  of  smeltiiii;  it  tor 
liiills.  The  next  day  they  crossed  the  mouth  of  a  hay  fill- 
ed with  ice.  and  on  tln^ 

."((itli.  Another  hay,  which  they  named  Arctic  Sound, 
with  a  river  at  the  bottom  of  it,  to  whicdi  Franklin  iinvii 
\\\v  name  of  Hood,  "  Jis  a  small  tribute  to  the  memory 
of  our  lamented  friend  and  companion."  Their  provi- 
sion heinn;  now  I'educed  to  ei^lit  days'  consumption,  it  be- 
came necessary  to  seek  a  supjily.  'IMio  hunters  wero 
therefore  sent  on  sliore. 

An<;usf  1st.  The  Imntors  returned  with  two  small 
•leer  ami  a  brown  hear.  '^I'liey  were  now.  and,  in  point 
of  fact,  had  been  some  time,  coasting  and  landing  on  the 
17  V  J 


\\ 


M 


I 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


h 


<y  %  // 


«/ 


y. 


z 


y, 
^ 


1.0 


I.I 


1.25 


IIM    IIIII2.5 


I4£     — 


12? 


12.0 


1.8 


1.4 


1.6 


#s 


V] 


j^ 


■^ 


m 


A 


/ 


^y 


^^ 


>> 


'/ 


>r^ 


0>i 


Photographic 

Sciences 
Corporation 


^v 


^^ 


S^ 


,\ 


:\ 


\ 


"% 


V 


6^ 


«> 


23  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  NY.  14580 

(7;6)  872-4503 


,% 


6^ 


•',  I 


(  "  f 


I, 


258 


ARCTIC    VOYAGES. 


eliore  of  a  vory  wido  rmd  doep  gulf,  with  nnmerous  inlets 
Issuing  ill  various  (lir»'ctioiis,  witli  crooks  and  riv«!rs 
brandling  out  from  and  otliors  running  info  tlioiu.  In 
tlio  present  situation  of  the  pnrly,  living  from  hand  to 
inoutli,  and  without  any  rertainty  of  a  supply,  noil  ini^ 
more  than  an  outline  could  bo  taken  of  tiiese  inlets,  fiom 
twenty  to  sixty  miles  deep;  but  pains  appear  to  li!i\f 
been  btjstowed  by  Frankfiii,  ]Jack,  and  Hood  to  make 
them  as  correct  as  time  would  allow.  One  of  these  nu- 
merous branches  was  named  Melville,  and  is  stated  to  Im 
thirty  mihis  from  east  to  west,  and  twenty  from  nortli  tn 
Boutli;  and  Jhilhurst's  Inlet  is  not  less  tlian  seventy 
miles  long.  Those,  however,  as  occasional  receptacles 
of  ice,  are  not  to  bo  considered  as  refuge  harbors  tnr 
ships. 

Having  surrounded  this  gulf,  called  Coroiiation  (tuU' 
on  the  chart,  Franklin,  Richardson,  and  -Jack  walked 
along  the  southern  coast  of  the  Polar  Sea  ten  miles,  and 
finding  its  trending  to  ')e  still  to  the  east,  they  named 
the  spot  Point  Turn-again,  being  well  satisfied  that  it 
was  more  than  pj'obable  this  point  would  prove  the  ter- 
mination of  the  voyage.  "  It  was  evident,"  says  Frank- 
lin, "  that  the  tinu;  spent  in  exploring  the  Arctic  and 
Melville  Sounds,  and  jiathurst's  inlet  (all  branching  out. 
of  and  a  portion  of  the  great  gulf),  had  j)rocluded  tll(^ 
ho|)o  of  reaching  Repulse  ihiy,  which  at  the  outset  of  tlui 
voyage  w(>  had  fondly  cherished  ;  and  it  was  equally  ob- 
vious that,  as  our  distance  from  any  of  the  trading  estab- 
lishments would  increase  as  we  proceeded,  the  hazard- 
ous traverse  across  the  barren  grounds  which  we  should 
have  to  make,  if  comp(dled  to  abandon  the  canoes  upon 
any  i)ait  of  tlu^  coast,  would  become  greater."  But  the 
greatest  hazard  of  all,  and  it  was  wofully  experienced, 
■was  the  miserable  pittance  of  provisions  remaining. 

Many  circumstances  concurred  to  convince  the  party 
that  farther  exploration  would  be  vain,  one  of  the  canoes 
being  already  rendered  useless,  and  the  second  nearly  as 
bad  ;  tho  quantity  of  j)ommican  was  reduced  to  three 
days'  consumption,  and  apprehensions  for  their  safety 
had  seriously  posstissed  the  minds  of  the  vtjyagers  and 
interpreters.  A  violent  storm  and  its  effect  on  tho  sou 
did  not  increase  their  desire  of  remaining  longer. 


i  '^ 


nerous  inlets 
i  and  rivers 
>  tlieiti.  Ill 
roiii  hi'iiiil  t(( 
)|)ly,  notl  iiii^ 
'.  inlots,  tVdin 
n^av  to  have 
Dod  to  make 
ot"  tlnvso  II u- 
5  staled  to  he 
roiu  no)lli  til 
lian  seventy 
1  receptacles 
)  harbors  tnr 

)iiation  (Juir 
■Jack  walked 
I'll  miles,  ami 

tliey  named 
istied  tliat  it 
rove  the  ter- 

says  Frank- 
e  Arctic  and 
•rancliinif  out. 
rechided  the 

outset  of  the 
IS  equally  oh- 
radinii;  estub- 
,  the  hazard- 
ch  we  should 
canoes  ujx)!! 
r."  But  the 
experienced, 
laining. 
ico  the  party 
of  the  caii.>es 
Jiid  nearly  as 
ced  to  thre(3 

their  safety 
•((yagers  and 
•t  on  the  seu 
)iiger. 


FRANKLIN    AND    RICHARDSOn's    JOURNEY.     25{> 

"Tliough  it  will  appear  from  the  chart,"  says  Frank- 
lin, "that  the  position  of  I'oint  Turn-again  is  only  six 
degr<'es  an(]  a  half  to  tin;  east  of  tht^  mouth  of  the'Cop- 
per  Muui  River,  we  sailed,  in  tracing  the  deeply-indent- 
ed coast,  five  hundred  and  tifty-live  geographical  miles, 
Avhich  is  littl(!  less  than  tin;  direct  distance  between  the 
('(>|)per  Miia^  '{iver  and  Repulse  P>ay,  supposing  the  lat- 
ter to  be  in  the  longitude  assigned  to  it  by  Middleton.'' 

('a|)tain  Franklin  mentions  tiiat  Arctic  Sound  ajjpear- 
ed  the  most  convenient,  and,  perhaps,  the  best  place  for 
sliips  to  anch(»r  that  he  had  seen  along  the  coast,  at  this 
season  especially,  Nvh(>n  they  miuht  increasif  their  slock 
itf  |)iovision  if  supplied  with  good  marksmen.  Deer  are 
numerous  in  its  vicinity;  iimsk-oxen  also  may  be  found 
up  Hood's  River,  and  the  fine,  sandy  bott(nn  of  tin;  bavs 
promises  favorably  for  fishing  with  the  sein.  The  hills 
on  the  western  side  are  even  in  their  outline,  and  slope 
gradually  to  the  water's  edge. 

Franklin  farther  says  that  the  [)ortion  of  the  sea  over 
wiiich  he  had  passed  is  navigable  for  vessels  of  any  size. 
The  ice  he  met,  particularly  after  leaving  Detention 
Harbor,  would  not  have  arrested  a  strong  boat.  The 
chain  of  islands  allords  shelter  from  all  heavy  seas,  an  1 
there  are  good  harbors  at  convenient  distances.  It  k  U» 
he  hoped,  how<!ver,  that  Captain  F-anklin,  on  his  pres- 
ent voyages  niay  not  be  driven  to  seek  shelter,  with  tlie 
Kiebus  and  Terror,  in  any  part  ef  the  southern  coast  of 
the  Polar  Sea. 

The  airangement  made  for  returning  by  the  way  he 
liad  come  Captain  Franklin  now  perceived'would  not  he 
advisable.  The  country  between  Capi^  Rarrow  and 
Cop|)er  Mine  River  would  not  supply  their  wants;  tlie 
canoes  WM-re  unfit  to  encoimter  the  sea;  the  bad  season 
Avas  rapidly  advancing,  when  lu'avy  gal(»s  were  to  be  ex- 
pected. '•  I  det(u-mined,  therefore,''  he  says,  "to  make 
at  once  for  Arctic  Sou'id,  where  game  had  be«Mi  found 
more  plentiful  than  in  any  other  placfi ;  and  enterin<r 
Hood's  River,  to  advance  up  it  as  far  as  navigalile,  and 
then  to  construct  small  canoes  out  of  the  materials  of  the 
larger  and  damaged  on(»s,  \vhi(di  could  be  carried,  in 
crossing  the  barren  grounds,  to  Fort  Knterprise."  They 
hud  uoforo  thuiii  u  chilling  prospect  on  finding,  ou  Iho 


ill 


/»3 


if 


J'l 


2(50 


ARCTIC    VOYAGES. 


Sntli  of  tills  iiKintli.  the  pools  of  water  fi'ozcn  over,  tlio 
^roiiml  covci'i'd  with  snow,  iiiid  tlir  tluTiiioinctcr  dnwu 
to  tlu;  tViM'/'uiii-poiiit  at  iMuldiiy.  Tln';  liiiiittTs  v/oil 
un\,  hut  siiw  !ir.i  animals.  "  We  iiiadc  a  scanty  nical 
off  a  liiiiidtul  ot"  ])(Mi)iiiicaii,  atter  whi(;h  only  a  hall"  a  Imj; 


reniauiiM 


H;id  !is  tlie  canoes  had  heconie,  a)id  boisterous  as  th(» 


Aveather  was,  thesi^  voyagers  contrived  to  paddlt;  across 
tlu!  arms  of  lakes  and  inlets  within  the  i^n'at  jiulf;  hut 
there  wiis  no  ^amt^  to  he  hiid  ;  tiie  l)erries,  however. 
Avere  ripe  and  plentiful;  and,  with  the  addition  of  some 
countiT  tea  {LkIiiiii  piilnsirr),  furnished  a  suppei".  llav- 
in<^  crossed  tiie  east(M'n  entrance  of  JJat hurst's  Inlet  to 
an  i^'liind.  tlu^  deer  were  found  to  he  |)leutiful.  and  two 
he  wind  chanued  to  a  rpiai'ter  wliich  en- 


>v(>re 


ulled 


ahleil  the  party  to  ste<'r  for  i  lood's  River,  from  the  mouth 
of  which  they  nscended  as  hiiih  as  the  first  raj)id,  and 
encamped,  'i'liis  was  on  tln^  •Jdth  of  August ;  "and 
liere,"  siiys  FrjinKlin,  "  termiiiiited  our  voya!i(>  '>')  the 
Arc  tic  Sea,  duriiiij;  which  we  had  iione  over  six  hundred 
and   (ifty   <:eo<ii'a|)hical   miles.''     '-Our  ('aniidiau  vova- 


rei-s, 


he  a( 


l(h 


coidd  not  I'estrain  their  joy  at  hiivin 


turned  their  ha(;ks  on  tlie  sea,  and  they  spent  the  eveu- 
inii  in  talkinij  over  their  past  adventun's,  witli  much  hu- 
mor and  no  little  exai:ir('ration.  It  is  due  to  tlieir  chnr- 
ncter  to  mention  that  they  displayed  mucii  couraL^e  in 
rncounterinii  the  dangers  of  the  sea,  ma<fnified  to  them 
by  their  novelty." 

At  a  few  miles  up  Hood's  River,  it  ruii.,  ior  about  ii 
mile  throuul)  a  nin-row  chasu),  the  walls  of  which  ar(^ 
upward  of  two  liundred  feet  in  beiiilil,  and  (piite  per- 
pcMidicular.  Throuszh  this  chasm  the  river  j)recipitates 
itself  in  two  uiiignilicent  falls,  close  to  each  otlier.  Frank- 
lin named  these  casciides  ''  \Vilberforc<^  Kails,"  as  a  trib- 
ute of  his  respcH't  ior  that  distinguished  Christian  phi- 
lantliropist.  M'he  large  canoes  not  beinc;  suited  to  tiiis 
river,  two  smaller  ones  were  constructed  out  of  their 
materials,  each  sufficient  to  contain  thret^  persons,  to  be 
used  for  the  puipost;  of  crossing  any  river  that  might  ob- 
struct their  progress. 

'The  construction  of  tlie  ihmv  canoes  detained  them 
till  tlie  1st  of  Se])teuibcr  when  it  was  decided  to  make 


'  i 


FRAXKLr:^    AND    RICHARDSOn's   JOURNEY.     261 


^m 


over.  tli« 

CtCf    (litWIl 

iters  went 

iiiity   iiH'nl 

hiilt"  ii  Ijdii; 

(Ills  as  tlie 

Idle  across 

fliilt':  l)in 

,  however, 

)11   ot"  SOtllt^ 

per.    llav- 
t's  Inlet  to 
il.  and  two 
wliicli  en- 
tile inoutli 
ra])id,  and 
list ;   "  and 
lye  on  the 
ix  hundred 
idian  voya- 
V  at  liaviiiii; 
t  the  eveii- 
1  much  hu- 
their  ehar- 
couraire  in 
led  to  them 

ibr  al)oiit  a 
which  are 
(juite  per- 
precipitates 
ler.  Frank- 
s'' as  a  trib- 
u'istian  jihi- 
lited  to  this 
)ut  of  their 
a-sons.  to  ho 
at  might  ob- 
tained them 
Jed  to  mako 


El  direct  line  to  I'oin,  Lake,  distant  only  1  li>  miles  in  a 
stiaiuht  line  iVom  where  iheywere.  1  hiving' proceeded 
twelve  miles,  a  snow-.storm  (»l)lijie(i  them  to  encamp,  and 
,m  the  'M  tlu!  last  piece  ol- jiemmican  and  a  little  arrow- 
root were;  distril)uted  tor  sii])per.  The  violen(;e  ot"  the 
storm  continued  till  the  7th:  and  tor  several  days,  hav- 
ing; nothinii  to  eat,  and  no  m  'ans  ot"  makinu  a  lire,  they 
i-emained  whole  di'  .s  in  bed.  The  wind  contimu'd  so 
strong  and  the  w»  ''un'  so  severe,  that  there  was  no 
cliance.  ot"  gettinji  on.  A  temperatnre  ot"  'JO  ,  without 
tire,  the  party  weak  from  fastin::.  their  garments  stilf- 
eiied  i)y  frost,  and  the  ground  covered  with  ice  and  snow, 
reiidei-ed  their  condition  veiy  unlit  for  tiaveling  in  sncii 
H  conntry.  On  trying  to  proceed,  Franklin  was  sei/ed 
with  a  fainting-tit.  in  cons(?qiience  of  exhanstion  and  sud- 
den exposure  to  the  wind,  but  on  eating  a  morsel  <»f  port- 
iible  sf)up  h(!  recovered.  "1  was  unwilling."  says  this 
brave  fellow,  "at  tirsr  to  take  this  mors(d  of  soup,  wlfudi 
was  diminishing  the  small  and  only  remaining  meal  for 
the  pai'ty,  but  several  of  the  men  urged  me  to  it  with 
much  kindness."  The  canoe-carrim-s  wvvo  fie(piently 
blown  down,  and  one;  of  these  machines  was  broken  to 
|}ieces,  whi(di,  hoWev(>r,  was  turned  to  the  best  account, 
liv  making  a  liri^  of  it  to  cook  tlu^  I'enmant  of  portal)Io 
soup  and  arrow-root :  a  scanty  meal  affer  three  days' 
lasting,  but  it  serveil  to  allay  the  pauL-^s  of  hunger. 

The  next  two  days  the  surface  of  the  barren  ;j[rounds 
was  covered  with  large  stones,  bearing  a  lichen  which 
th(!  Canadians  call  tripe  dr  rwhr,  or  rock-tripe,  a  sub- 
stance! to  wliich  the  i)res(Mit  travelers  may  be  said  to  owo 
their  safety  and  existence;  without  it  they  must  have 
died  of  starvation.  JJy  botanists  this  plant  is  called  G*//- 
rnjtltoi-d,  t"rom  its  circular  form,  and  tlu^  surface  of  tho 
leaf  being  marked  with  curved  lines,  and  of  which  Dr. 
Kichardson  lias  described  and  engraved  four  species, 
with  this  observation  :  "  We  used  all  four  as  articles  of 
food;  but,  not  having  the  means  of  extracting  the  bitter 
princi[)le  from  them,  they  proved  nauseous  to  all,  and 
iidxious  to  several  of  the  party,  producing  severe  bowel 
complaints."  Tins,  with  half  a  partridge  to  each,  fur- 
nished their  supper. 

On  tho  dth  tlie  passage  of  u  river  ^S'as  efl'ected  by 


>^      r^ 


202 


ARCTIC  VOYAGES. 


1! 


'!. 


'^ 


1 


^ll 


nioniis  of  n  ranijo  of  liirj^o  rocks  at  tho  foot  of  a  rapiil. 
'^riio  people  who  carried  lioavy  bni-dons  mostly  .slipped 
into  llic  stream,  and  weie  dreiiclied  from  head  to  iodt ; 
and  all  beini;  w«;t  to  tiie  middle,  and  the  thermometer  at 
17°,  their  clotlies  became  stiff  with  the  frost,  disaliling 
them  from  walkinj;  without  mucli  pain. 

On  the  lotli  they  came  upon  a  herd  of  imisk-oxeii,  of 
which  tlif^  hunters  killed  one  of  the  lar<;est,  a  cow,  wdiicli 
infused  spirit  into  the  starving  j)arty.  "  '^Phis,"  savs 
Franklin,  "was  the  sixth  day  since  we  had  enjfiyed  a 
^ood  meal ;  tlie  tripe  de  roclic,  even  where  we  cot  enouirh, 
only  serving  to  allay  the  jjungs  of  hunger  for  a  short 
time." 

On  tlie  12th  the  severity  of  the  weatlier  abated,  so  as 
to  allow  them  to  go  forward,  but  the  whole  party  coiu- 
l)lained  of  faintness,  and  of  more  weakness  than  tiiey 
liad  ever  before  done.  Their  supper  consisted  of  a  sin- 
gle; i)artridge,  accompanied  with  some  rock-ti'ipe,  whicii 
urfoi'd(!d  little  relief,  and  the  lattei-  had  becoiuii  cpiito 
nauseous  to  all,  and  in  several  pro(hiced  bowel  complaints, 
to  Mr.  Hood  in  particular.  It  was  now  obvious  that  the 
whole  party  were  getting  weakf  r  every  day.  It  was 
(hscovered  also  that  some  of  them  had  tlirown  away  the 
iisliing-nets  and  burned  the  floats,  depriving  them,  by 
this  thoughtless  act,  of  the  means  of  ebtaining  a  supply 
of  fish,  which  miglit  be  expected  whih;  coasting  tlie  mar- 
gins of  the  several  lakes  they  would  have  to  ])ass. 

On  the  morning  of  the  14th,  while  the  officers  wero 
assembled  round  a  small  fire,  Perrault,  one  of  the  voya- 
gers, presented  each  of  them  with  a  small  piece  of  meat, 
which  hc!  had  saved  from  his  allowance.  "  It  was  re- 
ceived,*' says  Franklin,  "with  gi'eat  thankfulness,  and 
such  an  act  of  s(df-denial  and  kindness,  being  totally  un- 
expected in  a  Canadian  voyager,  filled  our  eyes  with 
tears."  On  the  same  day,  Franklin,  St.  Germain,  and 
Ji(danger  embarked  in  the  remaining  canoe  to  cross  a 
river,  and  when  in  the  midst  of  it,  the  current  and  a 
strong  breeze  drove  the  canoe  to  the  veiy  brink  of  a  tr«!- 
mendous  rapid,  of  which  a  most  frightful  account  is 
given  :  Belanger,  unluckily,  applied  his  paddle  to  avert 
the  danger  of  being  forced  down  the  rapid  ;  he  lost  his 
balance,  the  cunoe  o/erset  hi  the  midst  of  the  rapid,  but 


'i  .i  ? 


FRANKLIN    AND    RICIIARDSON's    JOURNEY.    2G3 


of  a  rapid. 
)stly  slipped 
(Mid  to  i'ont ; 
•inonif'ter  at 
ist,  disabling 

isk-oxcn,  of 
cow,  which 
This,"  sfiys 
1  onjoycd  a 
cot  oiiouirh, 
for  a  sliort 

ihatpd,  so  as 
party  coiii- 
>  than  they 
led  of  a  siii- 
TJpe,  wiiich 
icoine  qtiito 
complaints, 
ous  that  tho 
iiy.     It  Wiis 
rn  away  tho 
g  them,  by 
ing  a  supply 
nil  the  mar- 
pass. 

fficers  woro 
of  the  voya- 
>ce  of  meat, 
'  It  was  r(^- 
fuhiess,  ill  id 
X,  totally  iin- 
•  eyes  with 
ermain,  and 
B  to  cross  a 
rrent  and  a 
ink  of  a  ti(!- 
!  account  is 
die  to  avert 
;  he  lost  his 
le  rapid,  hut 


the  party  kept  liolil  of  it  till  it  came  in  contact  with  a 
rock,  on  which  die  wator  was  lajt  liigher  than  their 
waists.  IJelauKer  rcMuaiiied  on  the  rock  ;  tho  other 
two,  on  the  thii'd  attempt,  jiot  to  the  short;.  After 
many  fruitless  attempts,  a  sundl  line  was  thrown  to  Uel- 
aiiuer,  and  he  was  drajiyed  throuifh  tlie  rapid  in  a  per- 
fectly s<Miseless  state,  from  whicli,  l)y  tiie  attention  of 
Dr.  Richardson,  he  was.  after  a  long  time,  recov»>red. 
J5y  tliis  accident  Franklin  lost  his  portfolio,  containing 
his  journal  and  observations  from  Fort  Enterj)rise  ;  but 
the  loss,  h(j  says,  was  well  supplied  by  his  compan-ons, 
Richardson,  JJack,  and  Hood. 

On  the  Kith  and  17th,  by  passing  over  a  nigged 
country,  their  toil  and  sulf(U'ing  were  greatly  increased; 
on  the  latter  day  they  had  no  breakfast,  and  but  a  scanty 
supper,  yet  Franklin  says  they  alliiyed  the  pangs  of 
hung(;r  by  pieces  of  singed  hid«5  and  a  little  tripe  de 
rnrhe.  "  These  would  have  satisfunl  us  in  ordinaiy 
times,  but  we  were  now  almost  exhausted  by  slench'r 
fnre  and  travel,  and  our  aj)petites  had  become  ravenous. 
We  looked,  however,  with  humble  confidence  to  tho 
Great  Author  and  Giver  of  all  good,  for  a  continuance 
of  the  support  which  had  hitherto  been  always  supplied 
to  us  at  our  greatest  need." 

On  the  18th,  Franklin  says,  "the  want  of  tripe  de 
rnrhe  caused  us  to  go  supperless  to  l)ed."  The  next 
day  they  came  to  a  sj)ot  where  there  was  some  of  that 
weed,  which  they  collected,  and  breakfasted  on.  Mr. 
Hood  was  now  so  feeble  that  Dr.  Richardson  walked 
with  him  at  a  gentle  pace  in  the  rear  of  thci  party.  "  In 
the  evening,"  says  Franklin,  "we  had  a  small  cjuantity 
of  the  tripe,  and  the  rest  of  our  supper  was  nuide  u}  of 
scrjips  of  roasted  leather  ;"  and  he  adds,  "  previous  to 
setting  out,  the  whole  i)arty  ate  the  remains  of  their 
old  shoes,  and  whatever  scraps  of  leather  they  had,  to 
strengthen  their  stomachs  for  the  fatigue  of  the  day's 
journey." 

The  10th  supplied  them  only  with  Icehmd  moss, 
boiled  for  their  supper,  which,  not  being  soaked,  proved 
too  bittiu-  to  be  taken  in  more  tlum  a  few  spoonfuls  ;  no 
I'ock-tripe  was  to  be  found.  On  this  day  one  of  tho 
renewed  canoes  was  broken  by  the  fall  of  the  person 


I   ) 


fTl 


201 


ARCTIC    \OVAGLS. 


I! 


;    « 


who  liJul  it  ill  clifii'iic.      Vol'  stfvcral  diivs  jiftcr  rliis  ih 


|)  !•()<; 


M'CSS    WHS     S 


low, 


I'lr 

over  ii  hillv  I'oiiiilrv,  iiiid  \\^^'   imii 


liccimui  iiiipiiticiil,  luid  mu  iiidillcmit,  lliut  the  two  who 
Imd  tli<»  cliiiriic  of  tli»^  oii'y  rcMiminin^f  ciiiioi^  Iclt  it  he- 
hind,  iiryiii^  itii  rxciisc  that  it  liad  n  lall,  was  rom|)lrtclv 
hi'oUcii,  and  usch'ss.  They  rid'uscd  to  rrtuni  and  luinjj 
it  up,  i)roi\('ii  as  it  was  ;  tlicy  rcl'iiscd  to  make  any  ex- 
ertion, and  acted  as  it'  they  liad  givou  up  ull  liope  ol 
preservation. 

On  the  'Jlst  th(5  men  took  it  into  their  lieads  tliat  llio 
party  liad  lost  their  way,  and  a  ^dooin  was  spicad  over 


every   countenance 


Ivicliardson 


had 


snllei'ed    s(» 


unich  IVoni  cold,  t'atiilue,  and  huniref  as  to  he  t»l)!ii:e(t  lo 
deposit  his  specimens  ot"  plants  and  minerals,  collected 
on  \\u)  seii-coast,  l)»'ing  unahlo  to  carry  thorn  any  taither. 

Thinys  continu(!d  in  this  deplorahU^  state  till  the  "Jltli, 
when  the  kiHin<f  of  live  snnill  deer  «)'Jt  of  a  iar<:e  herd 
i'-!animat«  <l  the  droopinii  spirits  of  tin?  men,  and  they 
a.-iked  for  a  day's  i-est,  which  was  considered  reiisonahhj 
enou<;h,  that  llu^  (piiet  (Mijoyment  of  two  snhstantiiil 
medals,  afi'er  eii^ht  day's  famine,  miyht  enahU^  them  to 
pi'oceed  more  vigorously.  ^)n  tln^  "JCitli  they  reached  a 
lirancli  of  thc^  Copper  Miiu>  River  and  now,  for  \\\c> 
first  time,  tin'  people  were;  convinced  of  their  folly  in 
hreakinjf  th'i  two  canoes. 

liack,  the  most  active  and  viirorous  of  the  party,  was 
sent  forward  with  some  of  \\u)  hunters  to  apprise  the 
l)eoplei  at  Fort  Knterprisi^  of  tiie  a])proach  of  tlie  rest. 
Cri'dit  and  Jiuiius  followiMJ  them  also  to  hunt,  ('redlt 
retnriuMl,  hut  Junius  was  missiiiii;,  and  was  never  after 
lieai'd  of.  Sev»>ral  days  wer«^  hei't^  losi  in  making  a  ratt 
of  willows,  which  was  linished  by  the  "JDth,  hut  all  at- 
tempts to  convey  thc^  raft  across  tiu?  stream  failed,  and 
the  sduMue  was  considered  hopelfvss  :  tlie  raft,  moi'eo- 
ver,  was  of  ifr<'eli  wood,  and  tlu^  want  of  poles  or  i)ad- 
dli's  rendered  th«'  moving  of  it  on  the  water  impractica- 
ble. Vet  it  was  of  the  utmost  importance  to  cross  tiio 
river,  as  any  attcMupt  to  go  round  the  hikes  would  be 
sure  destriu:tion  to  the  whole  party,  in  their  famished 
and  worn  down  state  :  two  of  them,  having  been  utterly 
iniable  to  proceed,  were  left  behind. 

"  In  this  liopeluris  couditiou  with  certain  starvation  staring 


,1  ! 


FR.WKI-IV    A\D    RICIIARDSOn'.S    JOUUNEV.    205 

llinn  ill  till'  tiicc,  Dr.    Kic  liindxni,  ricliuilcil   liv  iIh'  iiiildc  dc- 
hiiv  <>r  niakinj.'  ii  last  t'tluit  tor  llic  siti-ty  of  the  partv,  and  of 
rt'lit'viii^'   liis  .siitloriiiir  <niii|iaiiioiis  t'rom   a    state    of  itiiM'r\, 
whirl)  could  only  tfrniinalc,  and  that  sjx'rdilv.  in  death,  vol- 
ijiileered  to  make  the  atteinjit  to  swim  Mcross'the  stream.  <ar- 
ryiiii,'  with  him  a  line  liy  whi<li  the  raft  miu'ht  he  hiiuled  over. 
"  He  laiiched  into  tiie  stream  witii  the  line  i-onnd  his  mid- 
dle, hilt  when  lie  had  ^'ot  to  a  short  distanee  Iroin  the  oppo- 
si'e  hank,  his  anus  hecaine  henuiiihed  with  <'old.  and  he  lost 
tli(;  power  of  inovinir  them;   still  he  perse\ered,  and  turning' 
on  his  hack,  had  neaily  ^.'aiiied  the  o|)po>ite  shore,  when  Inn 
Iei.'s  also  hecaiiie  powerless,  and,  to  our  inlinite  alarm,  we  he- 
held  him  sink.      We  instantly  hauled  upon   the  line,  and  he 
c  line  ai:ain  on  tlu'  surface,  and  was  L'faduallv  drawn  ashoro 
in  an  almost   lifeless  state.      IJeim,'  rolled  up"in  hlankets.  hct 
was  placj'd   hefore  a  good  fh-e  of  willow,',  and,  fortunatelv, 
was  just  ahle  to  speak  siilliciently  to  ^rive  .some  .sjitrht  direc- 
tion.s  respecting'  the  maimer  of  treatiiiL:  him.      lie  recovered 
streii^Mh  irradiially.  iind,  throiiudi  tlie  hlessin^'  of  (hid,  was  ena- 
hled   in  the  course  of  a  lew   hours  to  conviu-se,  and  hy  tlu; 
eveiiini,'  was  siilhcii-ntly  recuvc-red  to  i-emov(!   into  the   tent. 
We  then  re^M-etted  to  learn   that  the   skin  of  his  whole   left 
sale  was  deprived  of  feelini:,  in  coiiscMpieiice  of  expo>ure  to 
loo  trreat  heat,      lie  did  not  perfectly  i-ecover  tin;  sensation 
of  that  si(h>  until  the  following'  summer.     1  can  not  describe 
what  every  om^  ielt  at  heholdiiiLT  the  skeleton  which  the  doc- 
tor's  dehilitated   frame   exhihited.      When  he   stripped,   tlai 
Canadians  simiiltanoously  exclaimed,  'Ah  !   qiir  voim  sonnrirs 
vuiifrrrs!'      I  shall  i)est  explain  his  state  and  that  of  the  party 
hy  the  lollowini:  extract  hoiu  his  journal  ;  *  it  mav  he  wor- 
thy of  remark,  that  I  ihould  have  had  little  liesitation  in  any 
iormer  period  of  my  life  at  pluni:in,','  into  water  even  helow 
;i!;  '    Fahrenheit,  but  at  this   time  1  was  reduced  almost  to 
skin  and  Imne.  and,  like  the  rest  of  the  party,  siiU'ered  from 
(IcLTfees  of  cvild  that  would  have  I)eeii  <1isrepn-ile<l  in  health 
and  viiror.      Duriiiir  the  wliole  ol'  our  march  we  experienced 
that  no  (piantity  of  chithiim  would  keep  ns  warm  while  wc; 
iasted  ;  but  on  those  occasions  on  which  we  were  enabled  to 
iro  to  bed  with  full  .stomachs,  we  ])asse<i  {ilie  niirlit  in  a  warm 
and  comfortable  mann«>r.'  "     Franklin  adds,  '-  In  followin-r  the 
detail  of  »)ur  friend's  narrow  escape,  I  have  omitted  to  men- 
tion, that  wluMi  lie  was  alioiit  to  step  into  ihc'  water  he  ])ut 
lii.s  foot  on  a  day^'er,  which  cut  him   to  the  bone;    but  this 
mislortime  could  not  stop  him  from  attempting  the  execution 
of  his  generous  undertaking." — J'.   I-Jl.  4-2'). 

Eight  large  fugots  of  dry  willows  were  now  prepared, 


ih-^ 


I.  ^ 


'•=  I,  '1 


206 


ARCTIC    VOYAGKH. 


h 


'i  if. 


'  I 


find  found  to  l»f>  biioyinit.  niid  ii  (diccrful  supper  of  nwK. 
fripo  ;;tiVH  (;oiili(l('ii(;o  to  the  (Icspondino;  pcopio  l\w  n 
time;  hut  riothiiiji;  ciimt;  in  from  the  Imntrrs,  cxcfpL 
tliut  ono  of  them  hroiij^lit  in  the  iintlei's  and  hiick-lidiio 
of  a  deer,  whicdi  the  wolv.w  and  birds  of  prey  harl  picked 
clt'un,  a  small  (piuntity  of  the  s|)inal  marrow  only  leniain- 
iny.  This,  though  putrid,  was  esteemed  n  valnaldo 
j)ri/e,  and  was  dislrihiited  in  etpud  portions,  hut  fonml 
to  he  so  acrid  as  to  excoriate  the  lips  ;  th(*  hom-s.  inmle 
friiil)l(^  by  hiu'iiini;,  were  also  eaten.  An^ustus  and 
I'acU  returned,  havini;  traced  the  shore  of  the  laUi^  (if- 
teen  miles,  and.  despaii-in-:  of  continuiiii;  the  tour  of  it, 
thou;;hl  it  best  to  attempt  to  cross  tliu  river  at  this 
place. 

They  were  now  r(Mluced  to  the  last  (h'<ir«;e  of  stai-va- 
tion,  the  juen  a<,'ain  extremely  despondent  ;  a  settleil 
itjloom  hum;  over  ihem  :  they  I'efused  to  c(j|lect  rock- 
tripe,  prefei'rini!;  to  fast  rather  thim  to  make  any  exer- 
tion. '^Phe  river  was  still  to  be  crossed,  and  the  willow- 
ralV  havinjf  failed,  a  canoe  was  to  be  made  from  the 
rafts  and  covere(l  with  canvas,  but  was  not  yet  finished. 
In  short,  the  extreme  decree  of  starvation  was  at  hand. 
Fnmklin  thus  dt^scribes  their  deplorable  concUtion  : 

"  I  set  out  with  tlie  iufeutiou  of  f,'()inir  to  St.  Gerniiiin  to 
hiistcn  his  openitiotis,  hut  though  it  was  only  three  (piafters  of 
a  mile  distant,  I  spent  three  hours  in  a  vain  attempt  to  reach 
him.  niv  streuL'th  beia;,'  uiie(|ual  to  the  [;i\>uv  of  wading  throujzh 
tln!  deej)  snow,  and  L  ri'tuiiird  (juitc  exhausted  juid  much 
hhaken  by  the  numerous  falls  1  had  ^ot.  My  associati's  were 
all  in  the  same  debilitiited  state ;  and  poor  Hood  was  reduced 
to  a  perfect  sli;'.dow,  h'om  thi^  severe  bowel  complaints  which 
tilt;  /ri/ic  (If  rocke  never  faili'd  to  give  him.  Back  was  so 
feeble  as  to  retjuire  the  su[)port  of  ji  stick  in  walking;  and 
Dr.  Richardson  had  hnneness  su[)eradded  to  weakness.  Tho 
voyagers  were  somewhat  stronger  than  oursi-lves,  but  more 
indisposed  to  exertion,  on  account  of  their  desjK)ndency.  Tho 
sensatitai  of  hummer  was  no  longer  felt  by  any  of  us,  yet  wo 
W(;re  scarcely  able  to  converse  nptai  any  other  subject  than 
the  pleasiu'cs  of  eating.  We  were  much  indebted  to  Hep- 
burn at  this  crisis.  Tin-  oflicers  were  unable,  from  weakness, 
to  giitiier //-//^c  di'  rorlir.  themselves,  and  Sam;nidre,  who  liad 
acted  MS  our  cook  on  the  journey  from  the  coast,  shnring  in 
the  despair  of  the  rest  of  the  Canadians,  refused  to  make  tho 
slightest  exertion.     Hepburn,  on  the  contrary,  anunuted  by  a 


I, 


I . 


T  (if  rof  k  . 
)l)ln  fur  ii 

•H,     •'XCfpt 

l)ii('k-li()im 
iiifl  picked 
y  rciiiiiin- 
i  valiiiihio 
l)iit  I'oiiikI 

U'S.  IllMlltS 
ISfllS     (111(1 

o  liiko  lif- 
N)ur  of  It, 
T  ut  this 

of  stiirvii- 
II  scttlcil 
'.H;t  rock- 
itiy  t'xcr- 
e  willow- 
froin  tlio 
:  fiiiisluMl. 
3  at  hand, 
ion  : 

rerniiiia  to 
lUJU'tcrs  of 
>t  to  n'iif.h 
ig  tliroii^^h 
iuid  much 
iatrs  were 
IS  reduced 
iiits  which 
L'k  wiLs  so 
khm;  and 
u's.s.  Tho 
but  inoro 
luy.  Tho 
IS,  yet  wo 
bject  tliiin 
d  to  Ilep- 
weakiiess, 
,  wlio  liad 
sharing  m 
make  th-o 
lated  by  a 


FK\\K!,I\    AM)    ItUMIAUnSON'ri    JOmNKV.    207 

finil  reliance  f)n  the  beneficence  of  the  Sii,  .eine  lleiiiL'.  tern 
pcred  with  resiiriiiition  to  His  wi'l,  was  iiKh'tiitiirable  in  hirj 
fxertiuiis  to  serve  us.  and  (hiHv  collected  ail  the  //•//;(•  dc  rocke 
that  was  used  in  the  ollicers'  mess." — 1'.    I'J?,   Ivlli. 

<  )ii  tho  1th  of  Octohof  thoy  nil  safely  laiidod  on  tlio 
southern  bank  of  the  river,  oiio  at  a  time,  tlie  c  tioe 
lieiiiii;  drawn  back  aj^aiii  ni  succession  till  all  were  yot 
over,  without  any  serions  iiccideiit.  ^'et  several  (»f  tho 
men  wert»  wholly  unahh^  to  proceed  a  day's  journey, 
and  three  or  four  Inid  fallen  or  lay  dowti,  and  were  left 
liehiiid.  Dr.  liicbardson  and  Mr.  Hood,  with  tlieii* 
usual  fetdinss  (jf  humanity,  proposed  to  remain  to  lako 
care  of,  and  to  briuLt  "P'  ^''*'  'lisahleil  to  a  spot  where* 
tlwrci  was  a  thicket  of  willows  and  a  supply  of  rock- 
tripe,  .lolm  lle|)bin'n,  tho  kindest  of  mortals,  volun- 
teered to  remain  with  them  ;  but,  though  his  assistanc«j 
was  too  nnich  net>ded  elsewhercN  Franklin,  with  lii.s 
characteristic  feeliiii:,  snilered  him  to  remaii;,  as  beinj; 
tho  best  assistant  Dr.  Ivichardson  could  have  in  takinjj; 
care  of  those  who  were  disabbMl.  Franklin  was  most 
nnwilliiiif  to  jxirt  with  any  of  his  comrades,  but  saw  tlin 
necessity  of  doins;  so.  "And  after,"'  he  says,  "we  had 
united  in  thatdvsiiivinij;  and  prayers  to  Almiij;hty  (tod,  I 
se|>arated  from  my  companions,  deeply  afHicte<l  that  ii 
train  of  m(dancholy  circmnstances  should  havc^  demand- 
eel  of  me  the  sev<'re  trial  of  partiiiLN  in  such  a  condition, 
iVom  friends  who  had  become  eiuU-ared  to  nn^  by  their 
constant  kindness  and  co-operation,  and  a  ])iirticif)ation 
of  muneroiis  suireriiif^s."  The  partiiiij  took  place  on  tho 
7tli  of  October,  iit  the  distaiuro  of  about  twenty-four 
miles  from  Fort  Enterprise. 

■^riio  i)arty  who  ])roceeded  ^yith  Captain  Franklin 
consisted  of  eiij;ht  i)ersons.  '^I'wo  of  the  ("anadians,  !?el- 
anijer  and  Miclnd,  on  thn  first  day's  journey  declared 
themselves  muibh^  to  proceed,  and  be<:<;ed  most  earn- 
estly to  go  back  to  the  party  left  behitid,  which  wa.s 
granted.  Two  more  were:  seized  with  dizziness,  imd 
Ijetrayed  other  symptoms  of  extreme  debility ;  one  of 
them,  bursting  into  tears,  d(H-lared  his  inability  to  go  on, 
and  the  other,  the  next  day,  was  completely  exhausted  ; 
each,  at  his  own  recpiest,  was  permitted  to  rt^turn  to 
J)r.  Kichurdson's   t'ncumi)ment,  where   Hre   and  rock- 


I  i 

H 


I ,  \ 


'■•\ 


.;,  I,  i 
■I! 


ii08 


AllcriC    VoVAOKrf. 


i  '    I 


tripe  wiTc  t(»  lt<'  olitiiiiird.  Our  of  llieiii,  liowcvn* 
( Al  iclcfl.  llir  I  n»(|iitii>),  only  iini\cil;  tlu*  otlirr  tlum 
Avnt'  III)  iiinr«>  liraid  of;  nml  loitiiiiiilr  iiidrrd  would  it 
liiivr  hrcii  it' till'  survivor  liiid  pi-rislu'd  with  tin-  rrst. 

I'^niiiUliii's    piirty  Wiis   now   irdurrd  to   livr  ;   the   Inst 
tlliit  piirtrd  trolii  liiiii  wiis   our   of  tlii>  most  fiiitlifiil,  iiiid 
tor  whom  ho  luid  ji  silicon'  ro^iJird;  his  uiiiiio  Wiis  Anto- 
nio l<'oiit)iiio,  Mil  Itidiiiii,  who  hiid  scrvrd  miiiiy  ynirs  in 
Oo    iMiMiron's   irjiimciit.     TIm^   |)oor   follow,  on   tiil-iiii; 
liMivo,  liiid  I'litroiitod  {''niiikliii,  should  hr  survive,  to  tiiko 
him  to  l'liii:liuid,  to  jiut  him  in  the  w<iy  ot'  retuhin;^  home, 
The  live    leiiiiiiiiiiiii  were  {''riiiikliii,  Adam,  I'eltier,  llc- 
iioit,  mid  Siimiindrc.      The  siifleriiiiis  on  the  journey  met 
Avith   no  iilleviatioii   till  that   of  the  last  day,  when  they 
enjoyed  the  roiiilort   of  a  larye   fire,  the  iirst  deserviii<^ 
that    name   since   liNiviny   tlie   coast  ;   hut    tlien^  was   no 
"■  lri/)c  (it   mclit  :   "and  we  drank  tea   and  ate  some  of 
our  shoes  for  supper."      '•  The  next  morniiijj;,"  he  says, 
"with  our  minds  iiiiitated  lietweeii  hope  and  fear,  wo 
■went  silently  t'orward,  hut   on  reachinji  the  lony  and  ar- 
(h'litly  wished-for  I'^ort  Mnteriirise,  to  our  inliinte  disap- 
pointment andiirief,  we  found  it  a  jierl'ectly  desolate  liali- 
itatioii;   no  provisions — no  W'entzel — not  a  trace  of  any 
liviiij;  animal."     A  note   from  {Jack  only  stated  that   ho 
iiad  arrived  two  days  hetore,  and  was  lookiiii^  tor  the  In- 
dians.    This  was  so  unsatisfactory,  tiiat  l-'ianklin  decid- 
ed coolly  and  deliheiately  to  <.m>  iiimselt"  in  a  few  days, 
with  IJeiioit  and  Aui;ustus, '  to  Fort  Providence.      In  the 
mean  time,  it  was  ahsohUely  lu'cessary  to  look  out   for 
soinethin^f  to  subsist  upon,  and  "we  were  ^M'atitied,"  ]w 
says,  ''to  lind  several  deer  skins  which  had  het'u  thi'own 
uway  diiriiiij;  our  former  residenct^ ;  the  hones  weri'  j^atli- 
ei"ed  from  the  heap  ot"  ashes;   these,  with  the  skins,  and 
tlie  addition  oi'  tri/tc  dc  rorin,,  v,o,  considered  would  suj)- 
port  us  tolerahly  well  for  a  time."      In  a  lew  days  Frank- 
lin set  out  on  his  journey,  hut  found  himself  so  weak  as 
to  have  ^ono  only  lour  miles  in  six  hours  ;  the  next  niorn- 
iiiii  he  fell  hetwoen  two  rocks,  and  broke*  his  snow-shoes; 
liiuiin}:;  himself  so  exhausted,  he  let  his  two  companions 

*  Aui,'iistii.s  WM^  not  on*'  of  tlif  tiv(>  wliu  jjrocccdi'd  to  this  |)liict'.  On 
their  il('pi\rt\iri'  i'Vimidin  siiyr^,  "  A\ii.ni.-tus  did  not  nnikc  his  iippciiriincf, 
liiit  Wf  tt'lt  no  idiirin  at  liis  iitisciici'.''  No  doiilit  he  had  I'ollowid  iilono 
to  thu  I'urt,  and  I'riiukliu  umittcd  to  notice  his  tui'ival. 


.*        1 


s- 


\\ 


FRANKMX    AM)    UKIIARDSOn's   JOURN'KY.     2('»0 

|iinr(M'(l  ill  scarcli  of  the  Iiidiniis,  iiiid  rcfiirncil  fo  liis 
iiiisfnililt'  liitiiic.  M isfiiililt'  iii(lct'(l  It  uiis  :  two  ul'  ilm 
linen  left  liclniid  were  uniiblt'  tn(|uil  their  beds.  uikI  tln-y 
sciirctdy  censed  tVoin  slieddiiit;  teiiis  flie  wlinle  day.  *'  I 
WiH  t(Mi  weak  l(»  |i(iiiiid  the  hones,  and  I'ehier  (the  third) 
ii^reed  to  do  thiit  in  addition  to  his  more  t'atii^iiini,^  ta>k 
nt'  netting  \Vood.  We  perceived  (tiir  streiii:th  to  decliiK* 
every  day,  and  every  e\e;'tion  Iteizan  to  he  irksiaiie  ;  when 
once  seated,  the  <:reatest  ellort  was  necessary  in  order 
to  rise,  find  we  had  l"re(|ueiitly  to  lill  eacli  other  tVom  our 

SlMllS." 

Kiizhteeii  days  were  passerl  in  this  iniseratile  condition, 
wliich  had  iiicrease(|  troiii  day  to  day,  with  the  prospect, 
lioW(n'er,  of  a  speedy  termination,  tor  the  weather  liad 
set  ill  so  severely  that  the  Iri/n  t/i  mrln'  was  ('iitirely 
iVo/eii,  the  thermometer  Ijeiiiy  t'rom  l'>  '  to  'JO'  helow 
zero.      .Inst  then,  l-'ianklin  says, 

"  While  we  were  seated  i-(iniid  the  fire  this  evenini:,  dis- 
(■nin'siaLT  iiiioat  the  aiiticiiiated  I'eliet',  the  ciMiversatioii  was 
mddeiilv  iiiteri'iipted  hy  I'eltier's  exclaiiiii  «l'.  with  Joy,  '  All! 
Ir  iiKiade  !'  iiiiaL;iniii<^  tiiat  he  heard  the  hidians  in  the  other 
idnia  ;  iiiunriliiitely  afterward  Dr.  l{irlianlsori  and  Ih'phin'n 
entei-rd,  each  carrvinL'  his  handle.  When  1  saw  them  alone, 
ia\  own  mind  was  instantly  tilled  with  a|)prehensions  respect- 
ini.'  my  friend  llnod  and  our  other  companions,  which  were 
inmiediutcly  <'onlirmed  hy  the  doct(M'"s  meliniclioly  •■onnnn- 
nicatiori  that  y\v.  Hood  and  .Michel  were  dead.  I'errault 
and  Fontano  Iral  neither  I'eached  the  tent  nor  heen  heard 
of  hv  them.  This  intelli^'ence  produced  a  melancholy  de- 
spondency in  lla-  minds  of  my  party,  and  on  that  accoimt 
the  particulars  wen."  deferrt^d  until  another  opjtortimitv.'' — 
V.   1  KJ. 

'V\u^  einaciatpd  conntenHiires  of  tho  doctor  and  Ilep- 
hurn  uave  evich'iice  of  tlieir  dehilitated  state.  "  'V\ut 
doctor  partiriilai'ly  remarked  the  .sejjiilclirtd  tones  of  our 
voices,  wliicli  he  recpiested  of  us  to  make  more  cheer- 
ful, if  possihie,  unconscious  that  liis  own  ptirtook  of  tim 
saiiK^  key."  A  jxirtridiit!  whicdi  llephiirn  had  shot  was 
held  to  tli(^  tire,  iind  then  divided  into  six  portions.  "  I 
imd  mv  three  companions,"  sa\  s  Franklin,  '•  raveiionsly 
devoured  our  shares,  as  it  was  the  tirst  inors(d  of  ih'sh 
iiny  of  us  liad  tasted  for  fhirfi/'iinr  (/(/jis,  uiih^ss,  indeed, 
the  siiuil).  grisjlly  i)articles  which  wu  found  occasioually 

Z  -2 


'',l:il 


i>70 


AJJCTIC    VOVAlJC?!. 


adlit'i-iiig  fo  tlio  iH)ini(l('(l  IxHics  mny  ho  t<M-iMO(]  dcsli.'' 
J'ifty  .111(1  i'('siii;iiatinu  uikKt  caliimity  art*  flmnictcristics 
ol"  the  (liiviil  prolcs^Kni ;  aiid  on  the  present  ((ccasidn  of 
dislicss  wti  am  told,  'MIh;  doctor  liaviii<i;  broiiylit  willi 
lii;ii  his  J'raycr-hook  and  'rcstaiiHMit,  somo  prayctrs  ai;l 
])salms,  and  portions  of  Scriptnro  appropriate  to  onr  sit- 
uation, woro  read,  and  wo  retired  to  bed."  Franklin 
says  : 

"  At'lrr  otir  nstjid  snppiT  of  siiiircd  skin  ami  ]»on<»  snu|). 
Dr.  Ri(  liardsdii  acqiniiiitcd  nic  with  tin;  atllictiii;:  circuiii- 
staiiccs  ;ilti'ii(liiii:  tlic  dratli  nf  Mi*.  Hood  and  Miciicl,  :;ii(l 
dclaiit'd  the  crcuiivnccs  snhsfijucut  to  n»y  ilcpurtiwr  tinm 
lliriu,  wliifli  I  shall  f^'ivc  fmiii  liis  own  journal,  in  liis  own 
words;  hut  I  nnist  here  l)o  ])rrniittfd  to  ("X|>n'ss  thr  lirart- 
ffll  sorrow  with  whii  h  T  was  ovcrwlichnrd  at  tin-  Inss  of 
so  many  cotnpaiiioiis  ;  t's[)('('ial]y  of  my  tiicnd  ]Sh\  Ihtod,  1o 
\vlnisf  /cmIoiis  and  ahir  <-o-op('ralion  I  had  hron  indi-htrd  tot- 
so  iniicli  iiivaluahlf  assistaiR'o  dwrinj,'  the  cxix-dilion,  whil(» 
till'  rxct'llfiit  (jnalitics  ot  his  heart.  <'ni,'aLrt'd  niv  wannest  rr- 
^'anl.  I  lis  sciiMititic  observations,  toiretiier  with  liis  maps  and 
drawiniis  (,.  small  ]>art  of  wliieh  only  appeal'  in  this  svork), 
evince  a  variety  of  talent,  which,  had  his  litl.>  iieeii  H|)ared, 
must  have  rendered  him  a  dislin^nislied  ornanieiit  to  his  pro- 
fession, and  which  will  cause  liis  (h'ath  to  he  fell  as  a  loss  to 
tlie  servici"."— 1*.  -lUi. 

The  intdancholy  tale  of  disasters  thnt  had  hefallen  tlie 
])arty  l''i'ankiin  left  heliind  is  most  lieart-rendiiiii,  and  is 
l"eelnii;ly  iiiven  in  tlie  narrative  of  Dr.  Kicliardson,  which 
is  thus  inti'odnced  : 

"  Thi'nuL'h  the  extreme  kindness  and  foretlioupht  oi  a  ladv, 
the  party,  jirevious  to  leaviuLT  r<on(h»n.  had  been  furuislc'd 
with  a  small  coll(>ction  of  reliixious  books,  of  which  we  still 
retained  tv  o  oi-  three  of  the  most  portable,  and  thev  ])rove(i 
(if  incalculable  benetit  to  us.  We  read  portions  of  them  to 
each  other  as  wt>  lay  in  bed  in  a<ldition  to  the  UKa'nii  ir  and 
e\enin::  sei'\  ice,  and  toiind  that  they  inspired  \h  on  eath  pe- 
ru>al  with  so  slroni,'  a  senx'  of  the  omnipresence  of  a  beneji- 
c'-nt  (lod,  ihatoiu'  .situation,  even  in  these  wilds,  ajtiieared  no 
",'n;:"r  destitute  ;  and  we  conversed,  ]iot  oidy  with  cahnness, 
.tut  with  eheerl'ulness.  di'tailiiii:  with  utu'estrained  confidence 
the  past  events  of  our  lixcs,  and  dwellinir  with  hope  on  our 
future  prospects.  Had  mv  poor  trieiid  been  s|)ared  to  n-visit 
}iis  native  land,  I  shoidd  look  back  to  this  period  with  unab 
loved  deliuht."— P.  4  1!). 

The  sunie  kind  of  distress  and  sullering  which  aflUct- 


,  I      \ 


FIIANKLIX    AND    UICHARDriON  rf    JOURNnV.     271 


110(1  dfsii."' 

iriiclcristics 
itccasidii  ot' 
iMjylil.  with 
•i'iiy«!r.s  iiii'l 
I  to  our  sit- 
Fniiikliu 

l)()n<^  soup. 
'\UiZ  circuiii- 
.Miclicl.  ;iii(l 
liirtun-  ti'diii 

ill  liis  iiua 
s  the  licart- 

tlic  loss  of 
\v.  I  Inod,  1() 
ill(li-l)t"'(i  t'oi 
ritioii,  \vhil(» 
wannest  n- 
lis  iiiii|is  and 

this  work), 
ifcii  spared, 
it  to  his  |)ni- 
.  as  u  loss  to 

jefalh^M  tlio 
liiiil,  Hiiil  is 
Isuii,  whicli 

ht  of  ii  lady, 
■u  f'tiniisli!'d 
liich  we  still 
they  j)r()ved 
<  of  tiieiii  to 
uoriiiM:  and 
on  each  pe- 
ot'  a  heneli- 
iip[>eai"ed  no 
fh  cahnness, 
1  confidence 
ho|)e  on  our 
od  to  n "visit 
[1  with  una!' 

liicli  aflUct- 


f'd  llio  i)arty  »if  Fort  l']iif(M-|>riso,  worci  (lf'0|)ly  a^'p;r}iva- 
tcd  hy  will'  of  fins  <'l  wood,  and  of  ahility  to  provido 
snst(Mianc(\  hy  llio  coidncss  of  llu)  wcatlicr,  atid  l)y  llio 
extn-mc!  dol)ility  of  j)oor  Hood.  On  th(^  fiisf  two  -lay.s 
lliey  liad  nothiiii^  to  cat  c^xcfj)!  an  infusion  of  tli(»  coun- 
try toa-plant,  which  was^M-atilyinj:;  from  its  warnitli,  hut 
aliorded  no  snstciiancti ;  the  second  day  was  so  sforniy, 
and  tin?  snow  fell  so  heavy,  tlnd  they  kept  their  heds.  *if 
a  lew  niiserahlo  skins  and  their  clothing  deserv(Ml  th(» 
lunne.  On  the  tliird  day,  Miclnd,  the  Irocpiois,  hrouyht 
them  a  har(^  anil  parlrid^i^:  •• 'J'his  unexpected  supply.'' 
says  Kichardson,  "  was  received  hy  us  with  a  deep  seliso 
of  jiratitndo  to  the  AIini<:hty,  and  we  looked  upon  AFicheJ 
as  the  instrument  he  liad  chosen  to  preserve  all  our  lives." 
ll(^  complaini'd  of  cold,  and  Mr.  Hood  offered  to  sharo 
liis  hulfalo  rohe  v.'itli  him  at  ni^dit  ;  the  doctor  j^ave  him 
a  shirt,  and  Hephiu-n,  in  the  warmth  of  his  heart,  v\- 
claimed,  "  How  I  shtdl  love  this  man,  if  I  firid  he  does 
not  tell  lies,  lik(*  the  others  !"  Hephurn  had  studied  the 
man,  and  found  cause  to  suspect  him.  The  party  this 
day,  after  iv  iding  the  eveniiiij  service!,  retired  to  hed  full 
of  hope.  Nothiiifjj,  it  may  ho  ohserved,  like  desponden- 
cy, not  (nen  a  murmur,  ever  escaped  from  their  lips. 

With  ^-eat  fatifj;ue,  Kichardson  and  Hephurn,  with 
Hood,  removed  to  a  wood  of  piiu's,  to  onahle  th^-'m  to 
Kee))  up  a  fire.  The  Iroquois  was  ahsent.  Uc  had,  in- 
deed, refused  for  some  days  to  doanythiiifr,  hecnme  sid- 
ky,  and  still  continued  so  powerful,  that  it  was  :.tvu\]^\y 
suspected  he  had  u  hidden  supply  of  nu-at  for  his  own 
use.  .Seeing  flit;  enduriiii,^  ohstinacy  and  rid'racfory  spirit 
of  this  man,  and  his  positivt;  refusal  eviui  to  collect  frnie 
ilc  roclic,  now  their  sole  dep(Mid(Mice,  or  to  get  firewood, 
tin^  doctor  told  him,  that  if  iif)  relief  came  from  Foi-t  Kn- 
terprise  hefore  the  l20th,  Hephurn  and  he  should  he  dis- 
patched thither  with  a  compass  to  enahle  them  to  lind 
the  house. 

J  Jut  at  last  a  grave  suspicion  arose  against  this  man. 
On  the  evening  of  his  arrival  at  flu*  pines,  he  pretended 
he  had  heen  in  chase  of  some  deer,  hut  could  not  conuj 
up  with  tliem;  yet  hi*  found  a  wolf,  which  had  heen 
killed  hy  the  stroke  of  a  deer's  liurn,  and  lie  had  hrought 
tliein  a  part  ol  it. 


I     1 


1! 


ff 


'■  .i 


11 


il.V,        I 


^ 


ARCTIC    VOYAGES. 


"  We  itiiplicifly  liclii'vi'd  tins  sfoiy  then,  Imf  nftcrw.ird  lu^. 
rjimr  ('(iiiviiitM-d,  tVoiii  circuiiistiiiicfs  tlir  dctiiil  of  which  mav 
he  s|)!irc(l,  ihut  it  iiiiisl  htivc  liccti  i  portion  of  the  IhhIv  oI' 
H<'l.iiii:<'r  (»r  IN-ri-Jiult.  \  t|iit'st.ioi,  of  inomrnt  hi-if  presents 
itscll',  iiiiiticly.  wlicthir  li(>  ;ictii;illv  iiiufdrrcd  llicsc  iiii'ii.  oi- 
rithcr  of  tliciii,  or  whether  lie  found  tlit>  lioilies  iit  the  strnw. 
Krinikliii,  who  is  the  best  ;ihlc  to  jiuij^e  of  the  iiiiitter,  Iroiii 
kiiowiiii,'  their  sitintiou  in  the  snow  ;it  piirtinu'.  w;is  stroiii:l\ 
of  o|)inion  that  hotli  Hel;ini,'er  :ind  I'ei'rnult  had  been  sacii- 
liced  ;  tliat  Michel,  havini,' already  destroyed  iieliini:»M',  coiii- 
])letrd  his  crime  by  I'erraiilt's  death  in  ttrder  to  screen  him- 
self from  detection.  With  this  idea  np(!n  our  minds,  aiid 
tifiiie  to  assist  us.  Hepburn  and  myself,  in  iiatherinjz  as  mm  li 
/ri/ir  lie  rorhr  as  sutliced  to  prolong,'  a  miser;;blc  CAisteiicc, 
and  poor  Hood  irelliui,'  weaker  ev(>ry  day,  and  ovidently 
sinkini;  fast,  our  situation  (.in  better  be  (.•onceived  than  ex- 
Jtressed. 

"  At  this  |)erIod  we  avoided  as  inucli  as  possible  convei's- 
iuLf  upon  the  hoiielessness  of  our  situation,  and  {.'enerally  en- 
deavori>d  to  lead  the  conversation  toward  our  future  pros- 
pects in  lite.  The  fact  is.  that,  with  the  (b-i-ay  of  oui 
titrenu'th.  our  minds  decaved,  and  w'e  were  no  Ioniser  abh.'  to 
l»eai-  the  contemplation  of  the  Inu'rors  that  surrounded  us. 
\'.\w\\  of  us,  if  1  may  be  allowed  to  judi:e  from  my  own  caM", 
excused  himself  from  so  doiiu:  bv  a  desire  of  not  slujckiii^ 
till"  feeliuirs  of  the  otlnu-s,  for  we  were  sensible*  of  one  anoth- 
er's weakness  of  intellect,  thouLrh  blind  to  our  own.  Vet  wc 
^vere  calm  and  resiLrned  to  our  fate;  not  a  murmur  escaped 
lis.  and  we  wen*  punctual  and  fervent  in  our  aildresses  to  the 
Supreme  BeinLT." — I'-    l")l- 

'rile  whole  conduct  of  this  man  .Micliel,  hy  Dr.  Ric-h- 
nvdsotj's  accotiiit,  eviiiccMl  ii  diaboliciil  state  of  iniiid.  He 
Nveiit  out  ii!oiit\  refusiiiij;  to  let  tiny  ()!i«>  jjo  with  him;  re- 
iiiaiin'd  out  tiie  whole  day,  refiisitii;  to  sleep  in  tlie  tent  ; 
reliinn^d  contradictory  iind  evasive  answers  to  any  (jues- 
tioiis  put  to  liim;  rei;retted  lie  had  (jiiitted  Fiaiikliirs 
))arty,  and  rei'iised  to  cut  wood;  spoko  in  a  very  surly 
manner,  tmd  threatened  to  leaver  tlii'  party. 

( )n  tlie  tiHU'iiiiiii  of  the  "JOth  IJr.  Ivic.iiiu'dson  says  ho 
left  .Mr.  Hood  siltinii  by  the  tire  and  ariiuinij  witii  Mi- 
cliel,  "Soon  after  uoitiij,  out,"'  says  Richardson,  "to 
ij;al,her  some  rock-tripe.  I  heard  the  rc^portof  a  jiuu  ;  and 
about  ten  minutes  afterward  Hepbiu'ii  callcMl  to  me  in  a 
voice  of  iireat  alariu  to  come  directly.  When  1  arrived, 
I  Ibuuii  poor  Hood  lying  lit'eloss  ut  the  fireside,  a  bull  huv- 


1 1 


niANKLIN    WD    RICFIAllDSON'ri    JOURMCY.     SIH 


nftt-rwunl  !)(>. 
)t"  wliicli  iiiiiv 

tllf    l>il(iv    111' 
llCl'C   })l'<"SIMlts 

llicsc  iiK'ii.  or 

<  ill  till-   SMilW. 

mutter,  tidiii 
w!is  St  roil;:!  y 
(1  hci'ii  siicii- 
lt'liiili.'rf,  ('(Mii- 
()  screen  liiiii- 
r  iiiiinls,  ;iiiu 
•i'iii;z  iis  iiiiii  h 
tie  e.\isleiicc, 
11(1  e\iileii!ly 
ivi'd  tliau  tx- 

<il»lc  conveis- 

j,'eiier;illy  en- 

r  tiiture   pros- 

ilei'iiy    of    mil 

luiiL'er  iiltle  to 

irmiuuled   us. 

iiiv  own  ca^e, 

not  shockiriL,^ 

of  one  iinolli- 

>\vii.      Yet  \vc 

|rniiir  esraped 

ilresst's  to  tin.' 

y  Dr.  Rich- 
t  iniiid.     i  in 
[itli  him;  re- 
in tlio  tent; 
^o  any  (pics- 
|(l  FmiiUliirs 
very  surly 

Iso'i  says  ho 
liil  with  3Ii- 
]ir(lsoii,  "  to 
a  ffiiM ;  and 
to  nio  in  a 
jn  1  arrived, 
I,  a  ball  hav- 


'"S  ajij^arontly  (Mifercd  his  forrlicad.  T  was  at  th'st  hor- 
i'(ir-stiiick  with  tlic  idea  that,  in  a  lit  of  despondency.  Iio 
liail  hurried  hiii'seM"  into  the  ])resenee  of  Ids  Alnni,dity 


•t  of  h 


hand  :   l>ut  th 


iliict  of 


,lii(ii,'e  ny  an  act  oi  ins  own  liariu;  iiur  tiie  eoniliicl  oi 
Micliel  soon  j^ave  I'ise  to  otlnu"  thoii<^hts,  and  excited  sus- 
picions whi(di  were  conlirnuMl  when,  upon  exaniiniiiii  the 
Ijdily,  I  (hMcov(>red  that  flio  sliot  liad  entered  the  back 
part  of  Xhd  head,  and  passed  out  iit  the  foreliead,  and 
that  tlie  muzzle  of  the  ijun  had  been  applied  so  close  as 
ti)  set  tire  to  the!  night-ciip  behind.  The  <iun,  from  its 
leni;th,  could  not  have  i)een  [)laced  in  a  position  to  inllict 
siicb  a  wound  (except  by  a  se(!ond  person.  On  (pu'stion- 
iii^  the  iroipiois,  he  said  .Mr.  Hood  had  s(Mit  him  into  tin; 
tent  foi'  the  short  f;un,  tmd  in  his  al)sen;e  the  lon<;  gun 
bail  gonei  oil",  ho  did  not  know  whether  by  accident  tr 
not.  lIo|)burn  said  that,  on  hetu'iiiii  the  report,  he  saw 
Michel  rising  up  bcd'orc^  the  tent  door,  or  just  beliind 
where  .^Ir.  Hood  was  sedated,  and  then  go  into  the  tent, 
llviuy  circimistaiice  bid'or**  and  after  this  event  indicated 
tile  assassin."  For  the  threi^  following  dtiys  he  kept  con- 
stantly on  his  guard,  and  caret'ully  avoided  leaving  the 
iloctor  and  Hepburn  together.  Ho  <neii  made  use  of 
threatiuiing  language;  and  whenever  Hepburn  s])oke,  ho 
iislvcd  him  if  iu^  accused  him  of  tht^  murder.  He  said 
lie  hated  tlu!  white  jveopU;,  two  of  whom  had  killed  and 
eaten  his  micle  and  two  of  his  r(dations. 

Taking  th(>  whole  conduct  of  this  man  into  considera- 
tion, no  otlun'  coiKdusion  could  \)^'■  drawn  than  that  ho 
woidd  attemj)t  to  destroy  Ricluu'dson  and  H(>pburn  the 
lirst  op[)ortunity  that  oifered.  The  two  wer(^  in  no 
<-ondition  to  resist  even  an  opeu  atttick,  nor  could  tliey, 
hy  any  device,  esctipe  from  him ;  liis  strength  was  pow- 
erful, and,  besides  his  gun,  he  was  armed  with  two  pis- 
tols, an  Indian  bayonet,  imd  a  knite.  In  th(^  afternoon 
he  went  to  a  rock  under  pretence  of  collecting  frijtr.  dr. 
/■orlic,  and  said  he  would  soon  be  witii  us,  this  being  tho 
first  time  sIikm)  Mr.  Hood's  death  that  lu^  had  left  tlio 
two  officers  together.  Hepburn  was  not  easily  to  bo 
imposed  upon.  He  gave  such  an  account  of  the  mati, 
that  Dr.  Richardson  was  satisfied  tiiere,  could  b(^  no 
safety  for  theiu  except  in  liis  death,  and  Hepburn  pro- 
pijstid  to  be  the  instrunuMit  of  it. 
1- 


ll 


im 


AKCTIC    VUV  AGIOS'. 


li 


(mi 


'     1 


I 

Ml 


<  ' 


"  1  »l('lciiiiiiu'(l,  liDwrvcr  (savs  Hirli;irilsoi;\  ms  I  was  lln,;-- 
ou;;lilv  <'iin\  iiicrd  of  iIk-  ticc  -ssily  ul"  siicli  :<  tlrrMdl'iil  ad,  td 
tiiUr  till"  wlidlr  ri'>|i(iiisil)iliiy  upon  iiiyscH";  ;ni<l  imiiicdlatc. 
Iv  ii|i(iii  Miclirl's  <niniMf:  ii|>.  I  pnl  an  viui  to  hi^  lilr  l)y  sIkmiI- 
iiii;  liiiii  llirniii:li  (he  head  willi  a  pistol.  Had  mv  own  lifi- 
jiloiio  Itrrii  lliicatt'iicd,  I  would  not  liav<»  piircliasi'd  it  hy 
Hiicli  a  incasuro  ;  Imt  I  coiisidf-ird  iiivsolt'  as  iiitiiistid  alsi» 
\villi  till'  pnttoctioii  ot'  llcitlMini.  a  man  v»lnj.  hy  his  lniniMti(« 
Mtli'iitioii  and  di'votcdncss.  had  ho  (Mid'-arcd  himsrlt  to  nir, 
that  1  t'oh  more  aiixirty  ior  his  sal'cly  than  ilir  my  iwii.  Mi- 
tliol  had  L;alliiT('d  no  /ri/ir  dr  rocZ/cand  it  was  cvidciit  to  us 
that  he  had  lialtcd  I'or  the  pur]>osi<  ot"  jinttin;,'  his  ^\m  in  or- 
diT.  with  till'  intention  ol  atlackinL;  ns,  p('rh!'.[)s,  while  we 
were  in  th(>  a(  t  ol' encamping,'." — i'.   I.)!!. 

The  loss  ol'ixtor  Hood  was  a  severe  hlow,  mid  IJich- 
jmlsoii  and  I  li'phtirii  had  llic  last  luounitwl  oirico  lo  per- 
forni  over  his  r<'mains  hy  interring  tlii>  hody  in  a  chunp 
t»r  willows,  and  fcudiiii;  the  t'luuMiil  siM'vitH^  in  addition  to 
\\\o  vwuMXix  piayiMs. 

"  The  loss  of  a  yonn^  olVicfM'  of  sncli  distinirnished  and  va- 
ried tali'nt-i  and  api)lication  may  he  felt  and  duly  appreciati  d 
liv  ilie  eminent  tharactiTs  under  whose  mnnnand  he  had 
K(>rved  ;  hut  the  ralnmess  with  which  li<»  fontemplaled  the 
prohaMe  termination  of  a  life  of  nnconnnon  promise,  and  the 
patience  and  tortitud<>  with  which  he  sustained,  1  may  ven- 
ture to  say.  unparalleled  bodily  sutl'erin^s.  t'an  only  he  known 
to  the  companions  of  his  distresses,  /iickrrsfr/f/'s  Srr//>/iirf 
//(/;)  was  Ivinu  opiMi  heside  the  hody.  as  if  it  had  fallen  from 
his  hand,  and  it  is  prol)al)le  that  he  was  readini^  it  at  the  iii- 
Ktant  of  his  death."' — V.   [mk  l.")?. 

Dr.  Kii'hardsoii  says  that  in  thr  ])roc(»diiij;  ptirt  of  llm 
narrative  ho  lias  dwelt  upon  many  circinnstaiit'es  of 
iMiohel's  iH>iiduct,  "  nnt  for  the  purpose  of  UimravatinL: 
liis  eriine.  hut  to  put  the  reader  iii  jiossessioii  of  tlit^ 
vi>asons  that  iiilUienced  nic  in  depriving  u  follow-crea- 
ture  of  life." 

Six  days  had  the  two  remaiiiiii^';  desolate  and  inihappy 
travelers  to  ^h•a^  tlieinst>lves  through  deep  snow,  with- 
out food,  and  almost  without  any  fii'o.  existing  on  li- 
chens  and  serapings  of  tlic  skin  cloak  of  {)oor  Mr.  Ilootl. 
On  till'  fifth  day  .Dr.  Richardson  fell  down  among  largo 
.vtones  uiidtM-  the  snow  more  than  twenty  times,  and 
says,  at  liMigth  he  hecaine  so  exhausted  as  to  he  uiiahle 
to  stand.     "  If  llephurn  had  not  e.xerted  himsi'lf  bi-yond 


•J       ' 


l'RA\KT<I\    AM)    KICMAUD.SON'ri    JOrUNKY.    275 


Ills  strt'iiiitli,  Mini   H|ic<'(iily  miuln   tlio  riicampiiiciit,  iiiul 
Liiidlcil  11  tir»\  I  imiHl  !i!iv(<  pfM'islicd  on  fln^  spot." 

(  )ii  tilt'  sixth  (Ifiy  (tli(<  'J'.ttli  (»!' (  )ctnli('i)  tliry  wrrr  np- 
pidjicliiiiii  l''(irt  l'",iitripris<',  nrid  as  tlicy  r"im(f  in  sij^lit 
III' it  at  (lark,  Dr.  Kicliarilsoii,  in  ('oncliidiii^  his  inoiini- 
fiil  nairativ'««.  says  : 

"  It  is  iinpiis'^iltli'  to  (Ic^ci-il)!'  our  HftisritioiiH  when,  iiti  nt- 
taiirm;,'  tiin  riniiiriicr  lli;it  uvrrldoks  it.wr  licln-Id  llic  siiinkn 
i-isiiinu'  tVnni  oiic  nl"  tin-  (  liiniacyH.  I''n»iii  nut  havi'iL,'  met 
wilh  anv  fuKtstrps  in  the  simw  as  \v(>  (h-cw  niLrli  «iiu'  oMcn 
( licfirnl  residence,  \vc  h;i(l  \)i-('n  ai^ilatcd  liy  niatiy  nidan- 
clinly  lorrliodiiif^'s.  Upiiii  cMtcriiii,'  the  now  dfsuliiti-  iaiildiiiL', 
wi- li;id  tlif  satisliiction  ot  ciMliniciiiL,'  ('apl;iin  Franklin;  hnt. 
11.1  words  can  cmivcv  an  idi-a  <it  the  filth  and  wrctclicdiicss 
tiiiit  nii't.  onr  cyi's  on  lookinu' ai'itinid.  <)iir()wn  niisci-y  had 
Htnlcii  np(Mi  ns  l»v  dcLTiM's,  and  we  wrcc  accnslonn-d  fo  ihn 
cDiilianplatidn  <tl  each  utlicr's  cniaciatrd  fiL'nn's  ;  hut  thr 
phnstlv  nmntiMianccs,  dilated  rychalls,  and  sc|)nl(liial  voices 
nt"  Mr.  Franklin  and  those  with  him,  were  more  than  wo 
n.nld  at  liist  hear."— 1'.  ■ICI. 

'V\w  inclunolinly  situation  of  j)oor  Fnuiklin  was  still 
an^nuMitcd,  it"  possihie,  hy  tin-  helpless  and  (exhausted 
stal(>  of  two  of  his  most  laithlnl  Canadians,  Pidtier  and 
Saniandre,  who  dieil  two  days  alter  tho  arrival  of  liich- 
ardson  and  Hephnrn,  when,  had  lln^y  not,  lortnnatidy 
conn',  I'^ranklin  would  havo  heen  left,  with  ono  solitary 
coni|)anion,  sick  luid  hclphiss  as  himself,  and  hotli  so 
nttnrly  uiiahle  to  assist  lh(Miiselv(;s,  that.  eij;ht,-and-forty 
lioni's,  nay,  half  thiit,  tnie,  would  probably  havo  put  an 
(Mid  to  their  misery.  Tho  whole  labor,  therefore,  of 
procurinjj;  tin^wooil,  of  scrapinfj;  toy;(^tlu!r  old  pieces  of 
skins  and  fraifinents  of  bone,  (l(!volved  on  lliciiardson 
and  Hepburn,  whoso  strcMij^th  had  rapidly  >een  decliii- 
in;;,  and  was  ntuirly  ('xhausted;  whon,  providentially, 
on  the  7lli  of  Novtnnber,  the  loiiif-(^x|)e(;ted  relief  ar- 
rived by  three  Indians,  forwanUid  by  Jia(;k.  Captain 
Franklin,  at  this  time,  thus  describes  their  condition  : 

"  I  may  Inn-e  remark,  that,  owuij^  to  oin'  loss  of  fl(!sh,  tho 
liardiiess  of  the  lloor,  troni  which  wi>  wen;  <>aly  prottjctcui  by 
a  blanket,  prodnced  soren(!Ss  over  the  body,  and  ospi-cially 
llio.s(>  parts  on  which  the  weight  rested  in  lyiiii,' ;  yet  to  turn 
ourselves  for  relief  was  a  matter  of  toil  and  dilliculty.  How- 
ever, during  this  period,  and,  indeed,  all  aloiii,'  after  the  acnto 
piins  of  liinigiM',  which  lasted  but  thret;  or  four  days,  bad 


i^f  M 


270 


Aucru;  voYAGi:?*. 


I! 


I  I   'I 


i  ,.  1 


Buhsidt'd.  wp  i:<Mi(M';illv  <'iiinv<Ml  llir  cninforl  of  n  few  liniiis' 
Hlrc|t.  Tin-  (IrtMiiis  wliicli  tur  the  iiiost  pm't.  Iii''  not  ;il\Viivs, 
acnimpaiiiiMl  tln'iii,  wcrt-  tisiuilly  (tlii)iii:li  iiof  iii\  miiiUlv  )  nf 
Jl  l>l<'!isiiut.  cliiinictci'.  liriiiir  very  (il'trii  !ili(iiit  llic  fiijuviiH'iils 
nl  ^t•;ls^illf,^  In  tlic  (l;i\  tiiiif  we  It'll  into  llir  |>c;i(ti(T  ol'  coii- 
vcrsiui:  on  connnon  iind  liu'lit  snliji'iMs,  ;iltlionu'h  we  soinr- 
tinii's  (liscnsscd  with  scrionsncss  .-nid  fiirncstncss  topics  (d;;- 
ucctcd  willi  rcliLrion.  We  f:i'ncr;dly  iiv<tidrd  spcMkinL;  ili- 
rrctlv  otdnr  |)i-('scnt  sn01'rin;,'s,  or  even  ot'tlu*  |>ros|)cf(  ot'rr. 
lict".  I  oliscrvcd  th;it.  iu  |iro|)oi'f ion  ;is  onr  stft-njitli  drc.ivi'd, 
oin"  minds  cxhiltitt'd  symplonis  ot'  wcMUiifss,  cvincfd  \i\  n 
kind  of  iinrcisonnMo  pcttislincss  with  each  other,  liacli  of 
us  thontzht  the  othrr  wcakrr  in  iutrllect  than  himself,  ami 
mitre  in  need  of  advice  and  a>sistance.  So  tritlinu  a  circ  urn- 
stance  as  a  (  liani,'e  ol'  place,  I'ecommended  Ity  one  as  lieiiii; 
warmer  and  more  coiid'ortal>le,  and  refnsed  by  the  other  from 
a  dread  of  motion,  frecpiently  called  llirtti  fretfnl  e.\|)ressions, 
\'.  hich  were  no  sooner  nttered  than  atoned  for,  to  lie  repeat- 
ed, periia|)s,  in  the  course  of  a  few  nnuutes.  The  .same  thinL,^ 
often  occurred  when  we  endeavored  to  assist  each  othei-  in 
carrvinir  wood  to  tlu'  lire;  none  of  us  were  williiii,'  to  I'eceivc 
assistance,  allhonLrh  the  task  was  dis|)roportioned  lo  our 
strenutli.  On  one  of  these  occasion'  lle|tliurn  was  so  con- 
vinced of  this  waywardness,  that  he  <  xclaimed,  '  Dear  me  I 
if  we  are  s|)  ired  lo  rctnrii  to  laiirland,  1  wonder  if  we  shall 
recover  our  uMderstandinirs  I'  " — I'.  K!.").   hid. 

'Vhv  su|)i)li('s  sent  hy  llnck  set  all  to  riylits,  hut  not 
without  tho  uretitest  caution  ai;ainst  I'cph'tion.  On  tlie 
1 -Mil.  11  nolo  from  I'ack,  iidonnin<;  tlioni  of  Ills  intention 
lo  proceed  to  Kort  I'j'ovidcnce,  ])repare(l  them  idl,  with- 
out delay,  to  liastoii  thithcf;  hut  Dr.  liichafdson  could 
Uct  no  iarthiT  llian  ahoul  thi'ce  miles,  he  hidiiii  hy  much 
ihe  weakest  of  the  party.  Franklin  says  (to  tiie  lionor 
of  tlu>  Indians),  it  was  tliey  "who  j)repared  our  eu- 
camj)ment,  cooked  for  us,  and  fed  us  ijs  if  we  liad  been 
idiildren.  eviucini>  liumanity  that  would  have  done  lionur 
to  the  most  civili/ed  peoi)I(>." 

Mv.  IJack's  narra'ive  is  hut  ti  coidimiation  of  the  same 
kind  of  su'l'erin^s  by  fainiiu^  and  cold  which  pursued  his 
footsteps.  For  days  1h^  tind  his  party  had  iu)thinii;  to 
eat  ;  even  fripr  <h  rodir  was  rarely  ()l)t!iined  :  many 
days  w<MV  passed  in  sorrow  and  iu  stdferinji;  ere  he  had 
the  jjood  fortune  to  fall  in  with  an  Indiiin  encampment. 
In  tlie  course  of  his  search  one  of  liis  com|)anions  w<is 
foun(i   dead  :    "  I    found   him,"   reported    St.   (lermnin, 


I. 


FRANKM.V    AM)    UlCII ARDSOn's    JOURNEY.    277 


r<'\v  I II 111 rs' 
nut  iiluiiv-;. 
.Jiriulily)  lit' 

•  MljoyiliriltS 
'tU'C  1(1    (1)11- 

1  we  SI II III •- 
*  tii]ti(s  cdii- 
i|ii';ikiiii:   ili- 

IS|)('r(    (it   Ir- 

tli  (Ifcaytil, 
k'iiu'i'd  liy  ;i 
r.  \'.;\i\i  lit' 
liiiiiscit',  iiMil 
lU  ii  rirciiiii- 
iw  iis  liciii^' 
f  other  t'iDiii 
(■.\[)n'ssiniis, 
()  lit"  rt'|ii';il- 
[•  s:iiiu'  tiling 
iU'h  other  in 
li,'  to  rec'civ  !• 
)li('(l  to  our 
was  so  CI  111- 
,  '  Dear  iin-  ! 
r  it'  \vc  sliall 

its,  Imt  not 
()m  llio 
is  iiitoiitioii 
ti  all,  with- 

(!s()ii  could 
iiii  l)y  imicli 
)  the  lioiinr 

d  our  cu- 
o  liad  htM'ii 

lone  lioiior 

)t' the  saiiio 
)ui\snod  his 
iiotliinii  to 
led  :  many 
ore  he  had 
cainpinotit. 
anions  was 
(Jermain, 


"  sli'ctclicd  upon  his  hack,  on  a  sand-hank,  IVo/on  to 
death,  his  liini)s  all  exlended  and  swelled  (uiorniously, 
and  as  hard  us  the  ice  that  was  near  hini."  "  W(^  had 
the  liap|)iness,"  says  l"'ranklin,  "  of  joining  onr  tViend 
Mr.  Hack  at  .Moose-deer  Island.  ( )iir  teeliniis  on  this 
occasion  can  wcdl  he  imagined  ;  and  we  wm'o  deoply 
impressed  with  iiratitude  to  hini  tor  his  ey.ertions  in 
sendinu  tlu^  supply  of  food  to  i'Ntrt  Enterprise,  to  which, 
miller  Divine  J'rovidcMice,  w(*  hdt  ihi^  jjreservation  of 
our  lives  to  he  owinji.  lie  f;ave  us  an  affectiuii  detail  ot* 
the  procoe(hnjis  of  his  party  since  our  se|)aration."' 

It  remains  oidy  to  state,  that  tin*  whole  party  Avho 
had  survived  the  Ion;:;  (uidiu'ement  of  privation  ant?  fa- 
tigue arriv^'d  in  safety  at  Fort  Chipewyan.  Here  tliey 
arranged  all  their  accoiuits  to  the  satisfaction  of  those 
who  had  heeii  under  tlnur  eui|)loy,  I  idians  as  well  as 
Canadians,  and  lnue  ('aj)tain  Franklin  concludes  his 
])ainfiilly  interest injj;  narrative  : 

"  We  were  here  furnished  witli  a  canoe  liy  Mr.  'mithjand 
aliowinaii  to  act  as  our  fruide;  and  having'  left  Fort  Ciii|>e\vvaa 
on  the  .jth  of  .lune,  we  arrived  on  the  '1th  of  .July  at  Norway 
House,  rindini,'  at  this  pla(<>  that  canoes  were  ahoiit  to  go 
down  to  M  .Ureal,  T  discharj,'ed  all  our  Canadian  voya^'ers, 
and  sent  them  liv  these  vessels,  fiirnishiiiLT  thein  with  orders 
on  the  ai:»Mit  of  the  Hudson's  Hay  Company  for  the  amount 
of  their  waires.  We  cairied  .\ui.nistiis  down  ti  York  Fac- 
tory, where  we  aiTiv<Ml  on  the  11th  of  .hily,  and  were  re- 
reived  with  every  mark  of  attention  and  kindness  bv  Mv, 
Simpson,  the  i,M)vernor,  Mr.  M'Tavisli,  and,  indeiMl.  hv  all  the 
otlicers  of  the  united  companies.  And  thus  terminated  our 
louir.  fatiuuini:,  and  disastrous  travels  in  North  America,  hav- 
iii;.'  journeyed  l»y  water  and  hy  land  (includini:  our  iiaviira- 
lioii  of  the  I'ob'V  ^!"a)  live  thousand  live  Imudred  and  lifty 
miles."— P.  .1!):.},   l!)]. 

It  is  hniiossible  to  risc^  from  the  perusal,  even  of  thig 
nhrldjied  iiiirrative,  witlunit  teidinjj;  the  deepest  contri- 
tion, uiin<:led  with  admiration,  of  such  dignified  conduct. 
It  contains  htit  a  small  portion  of  the  ti'ansactions  and 
adventur(\s  of  these  few  hrave  s))irits,  who  have  so  emi- 
iHUitly  distinuuished  themselves  hy  a  determined  i)erse- 
verance  under  dilKiculties  of  no  ordinary  kind  ;  by  tluur 
luaL^nanimity  in  bearinii  ''P  luider  sulferiii2;  and  distress 
in  every  ayi^ravtited  shap(^ — extreme  cold,  fatigue,  hun- 

A  A 


I  s 


I   I 


rJ 


■^"^^ 


■•I!  '   ■ 


(>/ 


■i  ;  to, 


|t 


278 


auctk;  voyahkh. 


m>r  ill  its  most  iippiilliiii:;  cliiirnctifr,  want  of  fuel,  Wiint 
of  clotirni*^,  wiiiit  ol"  ('((vrriiii;  iVoiii  tlio  iiicl(MiH!iicy  ii{' 
t\u*  wcatluM",  'lrii:;yiiiu;  tlicir  weiiiicil  Ixnlif's  tor  ii  pio- 
tnictiMl  period  over  a  l)arr»Mi  coiiiitry  hiiricd  in  (Iccp 
•snow,  and  hcariiii;  all  their  iiii.s(M*i«!S  without  a  iiinrinnr, 
and,  above  all,  with  a  devout  resiu;iiatioii  to  the  iJivino 
will,  and  a  confident  hope,  in  the  v(My  last  ((Xtreinity, 
of  the  goodness  and  mercy  of  their  heavenly  l"'atlier, 
wiiicli,  ill  His  own  ijood  time,  thoy  wero  fully  coiitideiit 
would  l)(!  extended  to  them. 

Siadi  conduct,  under  siicli  su(r('!rin,c;s,  supportcMl  hy 
su(di  feelinjis,  must  ever  cause  the  names  and  nuMiiory 
of  Sir  John  Franklin,  Sir  (refirjie!  IJack,  Mr.  Hood,  and 
Dr.  Kichanisoii  to  \m  held  in  liii^h  re;:;ardand  estimation, 
in  wlTudi  we  may  \w  well  assurcMl  every  on<i  coniK'ctecl 
with  tlje  naval  servicti  will  cordially  i)artici|)ato  :  nor  will 
the  uiisiiiiken  fidcdity  and  philanthropy  of  .lolm  llephiini 
be  less  entitliMl  to  admiration  and  ^ratitiKhj.* 

*  Jt  wii.s  i,Tatit'viiiL,'  to  tiiiil  that  tlirsc  brave  men  were  not  forirotti'ii  at 
lii'a(|(|uart(iv  in  tlirir  alisciici',  Franklin  iiciiii,'  raised  to  the  rank  of 
ciiptain,  and  iMr.  Hack  aiid  Mr.  Hood  each  to  that  of  hcutciiaiit.  and  hoii- 
(L'Ht  Jolui  lli'2jljunj  phicod  in  u  cuiiilurtublo  situutiou  iu  uiie  of  tlio  duck- 
yiirds. 


:l'^^ 


[  •  i 


f 


fuel,  Wiiiit 

MIKMlCy    (if 

lor  a  |)ni- 
(1  ill  (lcf|) 
I  iniiniiiir, 
\\io.  I)iviii(3 
rxtromity, 
ly  l-'allicr, 
(T  coiitidfiit 

iportcd  Ity 
1(1  in(!iii()iy 

Hood,  and 
(^Htiiiiiitioii, 

connected 
B  :  nor  Avill 
n  IIep!)urn 


3t  forsiotti'ii  at 
I  tlir  rank  (it 
iiiiiit.  iinil  liiiii- 
."  ot"  the  (lock- 


rHANKIJX  t  niCIIARnS0\*8  SECOND  JOUilNEY.  279 


CIIAPTIOR  XI. 
FRANKLIN   AND  RICHARDSON. 


1825,  18-30',  1H-J7. 


lar 
Iho 


Narrative  of  a  Second  E.cpciUiion  to  the  Shores  of  the  Po 
Sea.     IJy  John  Fujnklin,  Capt,  R.  N,,  Cojiimaiuler  ol 
Kxiiedition. 

TnK  inontul  and  pliysical  constitution  of  a  thorough- 
bred Kn<,di.sh  seaman  is  rai-ely  found  to  give  whv  to,  or 
Miccunib  luider,  misfortunes,  lie  may  sull'er  i\  peatcd 
shipwrecks,  may  be  wounded  in  fight  with  the  enemy, 
<;iiptured  and  tlirown  into  prison,  all  or  any  of  which  will 
jiot  deter  Ijim  from,  but  nith(u-  increase  his  anxiety  for, 
following  up  his  profession,  under  the  hope  of  more  fa- 
vorable auspices.  Thus,  in  the  true  spirit  of  a  seaman, 
Captain  Franklin,  in  spite  of  the  ahnost  unh(;ard-of  suf- 
^M-ings  lie  endured  for  a  long  time,  both  mental  and  phys- 
ical, brought  on  by  extreme  cold,  debility,  and  famine, 
even  to  death's  door — with  the  ful]  recollection  of  all 
these,  could  not  resist  the  temptation  of  oll'ering  a  plan, 
and  also  himself  for  the  execution  of  it,  to  the  govern- 
ment, of  a  second  expedition  of  the  same  kind,  for  the 
same  i)ur])ose,  and  over  the  same  country,  as  the  ono 
iVom  which  he  had  just  returned,  and  on  which  the  ex- 
tent of  his  sulferings  had  all  but  put  an  end  to  his  exist- 

<M1C0. 

"  I  was  well  awjire,"  says  this  noblo-niiadeJ  officer,  "  of 
Ihc  sympathy  excited  in  the  British  })ublic  by  the  suflerings 
of  llioso  eugugod  iu  the  former  overliiuJ  expedition  to  the 
mouth  of  the  C()pi)er  Mine  River,  and  of  the  humane  repug- 
nnnce  of  his  majesty's  government  to  expose  others  to  a  liko 
fate;  but  I  was  enabled  to  show  8atisfiictf)rily  that  in  the 
j)i'()posed  course  similar  dangers  were  not  to  be  apprehended, 
while  liie  objec^ts  to  be  attaiueil  were  at  once  im})ortant  to  tho 
naval  character,  scientific  rej)utation,  and  connnercial  inter- 
ests of  Great  Britain;  and  1  received  directions  from  tho 
Right  Ilouorable  Earl  Balhurst  to  make  tlie  necessary  prep- 
;initioiis  lur  tho  equipment  of  the  expedition,  to  the  command 
of  which  X  had  the  honor  to  be  nominated." — IrUrod.,  ix.,  x. 


ff  H 


280 


ARCTIC    VOVAGKS. 


I 


t! 


■f  'I I 


\\\ 


If 


,  I 


.M;iiiy  iiiiviil  (irCicciN  (if  distiiimiislH'd  tiilciifs  aiiximisly 
olii'icil  their  siTviccs,  l»ut  liis  (•onipiinions  in  misfoi t iiiic, 
Jjit  nil  iKiiit  liiii-l,-  and  Dr.  liichiird.^nii,  hcin^  aiinniij  tli(< 
lui'ciMost  to  volinitct'c,  v.'crc  tlic  iirst  to  he  considficd  ; 
tlm  toninT  aliciidy  distin^uislicd  lor  his  zeal  and  rnci- 
\l,y  in  all  tho  contin^nMicics  of  an  exploring  voyage,  and 
the  littler  as  snr^eon  and  natnralist,  it  may  he  said  ot  tlu^ 
Iirst  distinction,  as  he  had  proved  liiniself  to  he,  and. 
inoroovcr,  ii  ^'entlenian  of  the  most  henevolent  and  hu- 


man*^  disposition. 


'V\ 


le  valnaiile  services   of  tijese   two 


ot'ticers  on  tJie  former  expeilitioii  can  nev(M'  he  (•veriooix- 
od.  To  their  energy  of  (diaracter  and  proniptitnde  ot 
fiction  tnay  undonhtedly,  as  Prankliii  records,  ho  ascrihed 
tli»^  safety  of  himself  and  the  remaining;  party.  Kich- 
ardson,  not  to  foi'sake  his  foi'iner  companion  and  fidlow- 
Rn(r»!rer,  left  w  comfortahli^  sitnation  at  home  with  a  wile 
and  family,  so  eajfcr  was  lie  to  complete  the  yeofirapliy 
and  the  natui'al  liistory  of  th«>  Amerii'an  coast  which  lior- 
ders  tlie  INtlar  Sea  on  its  southern  side.  L'icntvnduf 
Bus]\naik^  who  had  served  with  Koss  and  I*arry  in  tlieir 
Arctic  voya<!;es,  and  had  (hstinirnislied  himself  as  a 
drauylitsman  and  surveyor,  was  s(dected  as  one  of  the 
expedition;  hut  tiio  prematnrr^  death  of  tiiis  excellent 
yountf  officer,  distinguished  hy  liis  skill  in  nautical  as- 
tronomy, surveying',  and  drawini^,  Avas  deeply  lamented 
by  Franklin;  and  Mr.  E.  N.  Knuhill,  Admiralty  mate, 
and  recently  assistant  surveyor  with  Captain  fiVon,  was 
also  appointed  to  tlie  same  sitnation  in  ^ne  pi'esenl  expe- 
dition; lastly,  Mr.  Thotiuts  J)r(//nnioii(/,  oi'  FovWu;  was 
appoint(Mi  assistant  naturalist  on  the  recommendaion  of 
J'rofessor  Hook<'r  and  other  eminent  scientific  men. 

Ill  accedins;  to  Captain  Franklin's  proposal,  the  o-^v- 
ernment  was  not  iimnindt'ul  of  liaviiii;  sent  out  Ca[)tain 
Parry  on  iiis  third  expcnlition  in  the  jjrecedinjj;  year,  iind 
that  he  nii,i;lit  re(piir(^  information  and  assistance  m  tho 
event  of  his  proceodinji;  alon^  tho  American  coast  of  tho 
I'olar  Sea;  that  portion  of  it  inteijacent  hetween  Mac- 
kenzie River  and  Icy  Cape  hein^i  wdiolly  luiknown.  as 
was  also  tliat  b(5twe<Mi  Mackenzie  and  I  lean,  's  Kivei's. 
Thci  main  ol)ject  of  the  jiresent  expedition  was  therefore 
to  explore  these  two  portions  of  that  coast,  and  was  so 
explained  in  tlie  official  instructions. 


FRANKLIN  Ss.  RICHARDSON  ri  SncONU  JOURNEY.    281 


III  tlin  prcpiinitioiis  for  tliis  iirii nous  undurtiikiiii:.  ( 'ap- 
tiiiii  l-'iaiikliu's  i-xpoiitMice  hiul  tmiijlit  liiiit  that  l»ir(li- 
baik  (canoes  wtM'c  not  the  vessels  calculated  for  roui:li  aud 
icy  seas,  aud  tlierelore  thnu!  hoats  ol"  a  particular  si/,o 
and  (M)ustructiou  wert<  ordered  by  the  Aduiiralty  to  bo 
made;  aud  wheu  liuislu'd,  and  tried  at  Woolwich  as  to 
tlieir  (|ualities  of  sailing,  rowing,  aud  paddliiii;,  they  wen^ 
fourul  to  iiuswer  fidly  the  expectatiiais  that  had  beiMi 
foruuvl  of  thtMu.  A  third  little  boat,  uiue  feet  by  four 
aud  a  half,  aud  covertMl  with  .MacUiutosh's  prepared  can- 
vas, was  uiado,  aud  called  the  Walnut  Shell.  TUe  fatal 
stoppage  at  tlu»  crossiuii  of  ( 'opper  Mwiv  Mivcr  lia<l  suij- 
gesKMJ  tiiis;  aud  we  are  told  that,  on  the  trial,  s(>veral 
ladies  fearlessly  enibarhed  in  it,  aud  were  paddled  ucross 
tii«  Thames  in  a  fresh  bree/e. 

In  the  preparati(»us  uothiuii;  a|)p(!urs  to  have  been 
omitted.  Scieutitic  iustrumouts  of  all  kinds,  fowliuj;- 
j)iec,es  aud  amnumition,  mai-(|uees  and  tents,  lieddin;;, 
clothinu;,  and  water-proof  di-esses,  ihjur,  arrow-root,  luac- 
raroni,  portable  soup,  clu)colate,  essence  of  colfeo,  sunur 
and  tea,  not  omittiuij;  an  adetpuite  supply  of  that  essen- 
tial article  for  all  North  Amei"icau  ti'avelers,  pnniulcdn. 
In  short,  whatever  of  use  or  luxury  could  be  suiiyested, 
was  provided,  to  obviate,  as  Fi'auklin  said,  "any  appre- 
lieusion  of  similar  daubers  to  those  exptu-ienced  on  tim 
former  exj)edition." 

When  all  was  completed,  on  the  IGth  of  February, 
18"^'>,  Captain  Kraukliu,  Lieutenant  iJack,  Dr.  ilicharll- 
son,  Mr.  Kendall,  Mr.  Drummond,  with  four  marines, 
embarked  at  l^iverpool  on  l)oard  tin*  Amtuican  j)acket; 
Columbia  for  New  Y'ork.  It  would  be  thouy;ht  a  waste 
of  the  reader's  tiim^  to  wade  through  a  dcstail  of  their 
reception  in  Anuirica,  aud  of  their  |)rot:^-(\ss  alony  the 
rivers,  over  the  lakes  and  porta}j[es,  with  the  luunerous 
obstructions  and  difficulties  tliey  encountered,  but  rath- 
er to  })roceed  at  once  to  larid  them  in  safety  at  Fort 
Chipewyan  on  the  L'ith  of  .luly,  18-J5.  ''J'heu-  early  ar- 
rival, it  seems,  caused  ^i-eat  sui'prise  to  its  inmates,  b(^- 
iuij  only  two  days  later  than  the  time  wheu  Kicduu'dson 
and  Hood  had  arrivtul  in  IHIIJ,  thou^di  they  came  only 
fr(im  Cumberland  House,  where  they  had  win^crtMl. 

It  will  bo  sutiicieut.  to  say  that  the  wliole  j.irty  us^ 

A'a  'i 


I  I 


'  '      t  ') 

i! 


Iri'    I 


\    , 


I, 


f     M 


t  '  ; 


i   ' 


282 


ARCTIC   V(>VAr.r,.«=i. 


r«mmI)I«!(1  on  \\\i\  blinks  of  tlici  (irriit  l»«'ar  r^iiko  I\i\tM", 
wliicli  (lows  out  ol"  tliaf  liikn  on  tli«i  western  .side  im,) 
the  ,Miick»Mi/,ir  Kiv»n",  flown  which  thry  wcro  to  di-- 
srcnd  to  the  sea.  ( )n  their  arrival  at  its  mouth,  th*'  (>\. 
plurcrs  wcro  to  divido  thoinselvj's,  a^rroahly  with  tluOr 
ollicial  instructions,  into  two  parties;  the  one,  under 
('aptiiin  h'riinklin,  to  proceed  wjisterly,  alonj;  the  north- 
ern coast  ot"  America  as  liir  as  ley  ('ape,  or  to  tlu»  en- 
triince  of  nehriny's  Strait,  where  he  was  told  he  miulil 
expect  to  find  II.  INI.  ship  lilossojn,  under  the  orders  of 
('aptidn  |{oechey.  'J'lu^  other  party,  under  Dr.  Ivicli- 
ardson,  was  to  depart  at  the  same  time  from  the  mouth 
ot"  tlu^  same  riv«^r,  and  proceeding  easterly  alony  the 
Hiuiw^  roast,  continuo  till  he  reached  the  mouth  of  the 
('opp«'r  Mine  Kiver.  l*revious,  however,  to  the  com- 
mencement of  those  expeditions  alon^  the  coast,  Frank- 
lin uuidr^  the  followiiif?  arran^<Muents  :  first,  that  he  should 
^o  down  to  the  sea,  takinjj;  Mr.  Kendall  with  him  to  col- 
lect iid'ormation  resj)ectinfi;  the  gentu'al  state  of  th(»  ice 
in  autumn  and  sunun(^r;  the  direction  of  the  coast,  and 
whether  they  mif^ht  calculate  on  a  supply  of  ])rovisions. 
Sicondhi,  that  Ur.  Kicdiardsoji  should,  in  his  absence, 
proceed  in  a  t)oat  to  that  part  of  15 ear  Lake  whi(di  ap- 
proached nearest  to  the  Copper  Mine  Kiver,  and  there 
lix  a  s|)()t  to  which  ho  ini{j;ht  return  th«^  following  year 
froiu  the  mouth  of  that  river.  And  tlnrdbj,  that  Lieu- 
tenant Hack,  with  the  assistance  of  Mr.  Dease,  chief 
trader  of  the  Hudson's  JJay  Company,  should  ])rovide  a 
comfortable  residence  and  subsistence  on  the  shore  of 
iJear  Lake  for  their  winter  quarters,  and  also  to  arrange 
the  distribution  of  the  Indian  hunters. 

These  matters  being  settled,  Franklin  and  Kendall 
embarked  on  the  8th  of  August  in  the  largest  boat,  the 
Lion,  with  a  well-selected  crew  of  six  Englishmen,  and 
Augustus,  the  Esquimaux  interpreter.  Lieutenant  IJack. 
ha(i  the  charge  of  three  canoes,  each  manned  with  Hvf) 
men.  The  crews  of  these,  imagining  they  could  easily 
pass  the  English  boat,  were  not  a  little  surprised  and 
nu)rtitied,  on  putting  it  to  the  proof,  to  find  the  boat  tak- 
ing and  maintaining  thci  Unul,  both  under  sail  and  with 
oars.  This  river  has  been  so  well  described  by  Mac- 
kenzie, that  a  very  tew  observations  will  bo  sulhcicnt. 


,'  ( 


FRANKLIN'   &  RirHARI)S'ON'.-!  HKrOND  JOURNF.V.    SS.'J 


•n  Hi(l«'  iiiti) 
vrrt'i  to  (Id- 

Utll,  tllf  ('\- 

witli  lliKJr 
one,  uikIit 
J  tlio  nortli- 
■  to  tlu)  ni- 
1(1  li<^  iniulit 
lo  orders  of 
•  Dr.  Kicli- 

tllO    IllOlltil 

r  aloii^  tlio 

DUtll   of   tllO 

()  tla^  coui- 
(ust,  Fraiik- 
it  ho  should 
him  to  col- 
I  ot"  tlio  ico 
3  const,  und 
"  provisions. 
lis  jihscncc, 
I  \vhi(!h  jip- 
,  and  ther(< 
nving  year 

that  Lien- 
easo,  cliief 
d  ])rovide  a 
e  shore  of 

to  urrango 

tid  Kendall 
St  boat,  th(» 
hnien,  and 
onant  IJark 
d  with  fivo 
ould  easily 
prised  and 
e  boat  tak- 
1  and  with 
d  by  Mac- 
sullicicnt. 


Tlicy  found,  what  this  traveler  inentions.  a  <|nantity  of 
wood-coal,  which  was  now  poiceivcd  to  b(*  on  lire,  and 
its  smell  very  disayrcfable.  W  lu-n  tiied  at  winter 
(juartrrs,  it  was  found  to  emit  little  heat,  and  unlit  for 
tiie  blacksmith's  use.  ^I'lii'  banks  contain  also  a  kind  of 
unctuous  mud,  which  the  Indians  use  occasionally  a.s 
food  duriiiU  the  seasons  (»f  famine,  and  oven  at  other 
tinu-s  chew  as  an  anuisement.  It  is  sa  1  to  \\n\o  u 
nulkv  taste,  and  that  the  llavor  is  not  disayreeable.  I'' rank- 
I'm  also  nuMitious  a  dark  bituminous  li(pii(l  oo/.in;^'  from 
the  rocks,  and  two  streams  of  sul|)liurfous  wator  llowiui^ 
into  the  Macken/ie,  whei-e  the  IJear  Lake  Kiver  joins 
it;  also,  lower  d((wn,  the  eastern  bank  is  composed  of 
thin  strata  of  bituminous  shale. 

iNear  a  |)lace  called  the  "  Kamparts"  is  a  defile  of  sev- 
en miles,  where  the  river  rushes  with  great  violence  be- 
tween perp<Midicular  walls  of  linu'stoiK?.  H<u'e  tlu-yfoU 
ill  with  a  party  of  Hare  Indians,  all  neatly  clothed  in 
now  leathern  dresses,  highly  ornamented  with  bead.s 
and  porcui)ine  (piills,  botli  sexes  alik(s  who  brought  lish, 
berries,  and  nie"t.  At  Fort  (iood  Hope,  the  lowest  of 
tJH^  Company's  establishments,  and  upward  of  threo 
hundred  miles  from  when;  thc^  P'lrty  had  embarke(|,  Mr. 
Charles  Dease  received  and  prepared  lor  them  a  meal 
at  midnight.  The  fort  is  situated  in  the  midst  of  tin* 
tribes  of  Indians  which  Mackenzie  calls  t^uai'relers,  but 
whom  the  Lraders  name  Loucheux  or  S(piinter8.  Hero 
a  young  man,  a  half-breed,  named  Haptiste,  the  interpret- 
er of  tiu>  fort,  was  lent  to  them  for  the  jmrpose  of  intro- 
ducing the  party  to  the  Louclumx  chief.  Lower  down, 
a  party  of  theses  j)eopl(»  stood  ga/ing  at  the  sti  angers 
with  much  distrust,  and  refused  to  accept  their  invita- 
tions, till  at  length  a  youth,  gayly  dressed,  paddled  elf 
in  his  bout,  and  discovering  Augustus,  whom  he  recog- 
nized as  an  Esquimaux,  rose  up  in  his  canoe,  threw  up 
his  hands  for  joy,  and  desired  eveiy  one  to  come  olf  at: 
once.  "They  caressed  Augustus,  danced  and  played 
around  hiin,  to  testify  their  joy  at  his  appearance  amo»ig 
tliem  ;  and  we  could  not  lu^lp  admiring  the  demeanor  of 
our  excellent  little  companion  under  such  unusual  and 
extravagant  nuuks  of  attention." 

^J"'he  river  was  now  divided  by  islands  into  several 


I  , 


:l, 


i! 


'    ft 


)  i 


m 
■ ) 


^^ 


5     M 


•284 


ARCTIC    VOYAGES. 


cliiiiiiu'ls.  '^rijiM  was  till*  sixtlnliiy  after  tlicir  dcpni't me  ; 
and  litM'ii  they  passed  tlui  last  ot'tlici  •'•i-trrcs,  in  latitiKio 
iiH"  40',  tli(^s(i  hcinysiiccct'dcd  hy  stuiittMl  willows,  wliirh 
becaiiHi  iiioi'c  dwurtisli  us  they  iipproac'luHJ  th«»  sea.  Af- 
ter th«*  dissipation  of  a  thick  foji,  the  expanse  ol'  water 
to  the  northward  was  soijreat,  that  Franklin  was  inclined 
to  think  they  had  n'ached  the  st^i ;  and  in  this  he  was 
almost  contirnied  on  reaciiiiii;  the  sliorti  of  Fllice  Jwland, 
wlnT(^  they  "  wtM"(^  rejoiced  at  tilt!  sea-likt<  appearand) 
to  the  northward."'  "This  point  was  observed  to  In*  in 
lat.  (i!)^  14',  lon<i.  j;55  '  57',  and  forms  tho  nortiieastern 
ontranc(>  of  the  main  chnnnt^l  of  the  iMa(d\(Mi'/ie.  Kiver, 
which  from  Slaves  Lake  to  this  point  is  one  tliousand  a?id 
forty-tive  mih^s.  according;  to  our  survey."  On  reacliinj^ 
Whale  Island.  In*  was  satisfied  that,  lik«'  Mackenzie,  hi* 
had  reached  the  sea  ;  but,  on  tastiiiij;  the  water,  found  it; 
to  be  pertV'ctly  fresh;  still  lu*  was  persuad«'d  he  hail 
reached  the  sea,  and  observiiii^  an  island  to  the  north- 
ward lookinj;  bliK*  by  its  distance,  tho  boat  was  directed 
toward  it.  Abcuit  midway  tliey  wt^rt^  caujiht  by  a 
stroiif";  contrary  wind,  against  which  the  crew  contend- 
ed for  five  hours,  tite  waves  brcNikiiii;  into  tho  boat;  the 
sails  were  set,  whiidi,  with  a  change  in  tiu^  wind,  ena- 
bled th(MU  in  the  course  of  anotlun-  hour  to  fiMch  into 
smoother  watei",  under  the  ]vi''  of  the  island.  "We 
tluMi  ])ulled  across  a  line  of  strong  ripple  which  marked 
the  termination  of  the  fresh  water,  that  on  the  seaward 
sid(>  beinji  brackish,  and  in  the  farther  proiiress  of  tlire(> 
miles  to  the  island  we  liad  the  indescribable  ])leasure  of 
linditii:  the  water  decidedly  salt."  This  is  p(>rhaps  no- 
ticed in  allusion  to  Macken'>''">  havinj;  been  blamed  tur 
jiot  ascertainiuii  that  the  ^^  t(>r  was  salt  by  UiStinij  it. 
Franklin  .says,  that  with  his  littU*  frail  craft  ho  could  not: 
liave  ventured  beyond  Whale  Island,  or  three  miles,  to 
prove  its  saltness;  but  the  boundless  liorizon.  tin*  tide, 
and  tiu>  sij2;ht  of  porpoises  antl  whales,  were  miou^di  to 
induce  him  to  say  that  lu*  had  arrived  at  the  ocean. 
F'rankliu  says  they  had  often  occasion  to  admire  tho 
^(Mieral  correctness  of  Mackenzie's  surv(»y.  "  in  justice 
to  liis  memoiy,  \  hope  tlu*  custom  of  calliuii  this  tlui 
Great  Kivcu.  which  is  iii  i;eiieral  use  amonfi  the  trad(M-s, 
will  be  discontinued,  and  that  the  name  of  its  emineut 
discoverer  may  be  uuiversuHv  adoi)ttM|," 


rUANKLlX  6c  UM'llAIM)HO\'rf  SCCOM)  JOUUNIiV.  285 


[Icpni'tiirr : 
in  latiliido 
l)\VS,  wliicli 
i  StMl.  A 1- 
t'  (>r  water 
,iis  inclined 
lii.s  lie,  \v!is 
lice,  Iwliiml, 
ippcinuMco 
ed  to  \n\  in 
irtheasterii 
r/ie.  Kiver, 
ousand  and 
'n  reaching; 
i\on/,ie,  ho 
T,  found  it; 
•d  he  liad 
tho  nort Il- 
ls directed 
llfiht  hy  u 
V  conteiid- 
l)oat ;  tlu^ 
wind,  ena- 
fetcli  into 
id.  -W(. 
di  marked 
le  seawaid 
•*s  of  llirec^ 
)lousure  of 
'rha|)s  iio- 
>hniie(l  fur 
\;.stini);  it. 
J  could  not; 
I?  miles,  to 
,  tlu^  tide, 
euou^di  to 
ho  ocean, 
dmiro  the 
'  In  just !('<■> 
il  thi.s  tho 
lio  traders, 
s  eniinont 


On  (!arrv  Tslaixl  werf  found  several  layers  of  wood- 
coal  and  hituininous  rKpior.  KranUfin  had  put  a  piece  of 
the  former  in  his  pocket,  w!ii(d»  had  ignited  s|)ontan(^- 
niislv  ,  and  s(or(died  the  metal  powder-horn  by  its  side. 
I'rom  the  summit  of  this  island  "the  sea  a|)peared  in  all 
its  majesty,  entirely  free  iVom  ice,  and  without  any  vis- 
ible ol)stru(;tion  to  its  navigation,  and  nev<ir  >vas  a  pros- 
pect mon^  i^ratifyiiif];  than  that  whiidi  lay  (tpcn  to  us.'' 
lint  on  landing,  an  incident  occurred,  tin;  occasion  of 
whi(di,  on  leavin<;  J^nj^land,  had  created  in  his  mind  a 
severer  struuuh'  Ijolweeii  the  feedings  of  alfection  and  a 
sense  of  duty,  and  thos(^  fetdings  were  powerfully  awa- 
kened (Ml  th(^  present  occasion.  Just  as  he  was  about  to 
leave  England,  his  beloved  wife,  then  lying  at  the  point 
(if  death,  with  heroic  fortitude  urged  his  departun^  at 
the  very  day  appointed,  entreating  him,  as  he  valued  her 
peace  of  mind  and  his  own  gkny.  not  to  delay  a  moment 
on  her  account;  that  slu^  was  fully  awarc^  that  her  days 
were  numbered,  and  that  his  delay,  even  if  she  wMshed 
it,  coidd  only  be  to  close  her  eyes.  Sh(»  diird  the  day 
after  he  hd't  Ikm'.  Jt  was  to  this  circumstance  that  allu- 
sion is  made  in  the  following  passage,  "  wdfudi,"  it  was 
AV(dl  observed  by  a  friend  of  iiis,  "  will  speak  to  the  heart 
of  every  one  wdio  is  ca|)al)le  of  understanding  tin*  grace 
that  doiiK^stic  tenderness  lends  to  the  gallant  fortit«-.ao 
of  jiubfu;  enterpris(\" 

"  During  our  al»seiice  the  men  bad  pitched  the  tent  fni  llio 
liciicti,  and  I  caitscd  the  silk  unioii-ilag  to  be  hoisted,  wbicli 
my  deeplv-hiiiKMited  wife  bad  made  and  jiresenb'd  to  me,  na 
it  i)Mrtiiig"gift,  under  the  express  iajiuiction  tiiat  it  was  not  to 
Im-  uiifiirled  before  tlie  exj>e(lition  readied  th(!  t-ea.  I  will 
not  attempt  to  describe  my  emotions  us  it  expanded  to  tin; 
])ree/e;  however  natural,  and,  tor  the  moment,  irn-sistible,  I 
felt  that  it  was  my  duty  to  suppress  them,  and  tliat  I  bad  no 
ii::lit,  by  an  in(l(di,'eiice  of  my  own  sorrows,  to  cloud  the  aiii- 
inat(>d  countenances  of  my  compaiiioiis.  .loiniiig,  therefore, 
with  the  best  grace  tliat  I  conid  command,  in  the  general  ex- 
(iti'meut,  I  endeavored  to  return,  with  correspondiiii:  clu'cr- 
I'ulness.  their  warm  congratulations  on  having  thus  planted  tho 
Kriti.ili  ilag  on  this  remote  island  of  the  J'olar  Sea." — 1'.  •'^(i. 

('ircuinstiinced  as  he  was  with  a  party  many  of  whom 
liad  never  seen  the  sea,  and  others  in  constant  appre- 
hension of  being  attacked  by  tlio  Ks(piimaux  (an  api)re- 


i 
} 

k  if 


:  ( 


mmmam 


i 


•Ml 


:!t 


■(  '. 


<  %^r 


h 


I 


;  I 

r 


28G 


ARCTIC    VOYAGEri. 


lionsion  tlint  was  nMili/od  on  tlio  sorond  visit  to  tlio  spot), 
it  W!is  expedient,  liowcivrr  j)iiiiit'ully  di.stnj.s.sin^f,  lo  ]u\\i 
iti  iho  tj;('iirnd  (ixcitc'iiicnl,  uiid  not  to  suHjir  it  to  lliii;  hy 
niiy  ii|)j)riii'iiMco  ot"  sorrow  or  despondency.  In  doing  so, 
li(!  says  : 

"  Some  spirits,  wliicii  had  Ix'tMi  saved  for  tho  occasion,  wt>ro 
issued  to  the  men;  and  with  three  fervent  cheers  tliey  drank 
to  the  healtii  of  our  beloved  monarch,  antl  to  the  continiK  i] 
Hiuces.s  of  our  enterprise.  Mr.  Keiuhdl  and  I  had  also  ir- 
served  ii  little  of  onr  brandy,  in  ftrder  to  celebrate  this  iuter- 
estini,'  event  ;  bnl  na])tiste,  in  liis  delijlit  of  beholdinir  t|,y 
Hi-a,  had  set  before  us  some  salt  water,  which  havinir  befri 
tiii.xed  with  the.  brandy  btifore  the  mist.:k(^  was  discovered, 
W(>  were  reluctantly  oblii,'ed  to  fore^'o  the  int(Mul(>d  drauf,'lit, 
and  to  use  it  in  the  more  classical  form  of  a  libation  poured 
on  the  irround." — 1'.  'Mi,  U7. 

(.'aptain  FranUlin  wiis  now  desirous  of  procecnlinii; 
westwiird,  to  niak(^  sonic*  farther  (examination  in  aid  of 
tho  future  operations  of  the  exj)e(htion,  and  of  reachiiiij, 
if  possible,  tlu^  foot  (tf  the  Rocky  Mountains  ;  hut  a  i;ale 
of  wind,  violent  s(pialls,  and  a  threateniiiii;  appearance, 
induced  hiui  to  giv(i  up  tlui  attempt  and  to  regain  tho 
river,  in  )](ler  to  make  tlu^  best  of  their  way  i)ack  to  the 
fort,  which  they  readied  on  the  5th  of  .S«'ptoniher,  wlu're 
Dr.  Richardson  and  all  tlio  other  members  of  tho  expe- 
dition were  jussembled.  Tho  buildings  for  their  winter 
(piartiM's  were!  in  a  state  of  great  forwardness.  Tho 
dwelling  of  \ho  ollicers  measured  44  feet  by  'J4,  and  con- 
tained a  hall  and  four  apartments,  besides  a  kitchen;  that 
of  tho  men  was  3C!  bv  2'.i  feet,  and  divided  into  tlireo 
rooms.  'JV)  this  comfortable  residence  for  eight  or  nine 
months,  "  the  otFicers,"  says  Franklin,  "  had  done  nm 
the  honor,  pri«vious  to  my  airival,  of  giving  the  name  of 
I'^anAiin,  which  1  felt  a  grateful  pleasure  in  retaining  at 
llicMr  desire,  though  I  had  intended  to  name  it  Fort  Re- 
liance." 

To  pass  the  winter  in  a  much  higher  degree  of  lati- 
tude, as  Parry  did  on  board  ship,  was  thought  nothing  of; 
it  recpjired  only  eni{)loyment  for  othcers  and  men,  in  or- 
der to  short(Mi  tlu^  time  of  confinement.  Franklin  was 
well  aware  of,  and  seems  to  have  taken  a  lesson  from, 
the  regulations  of  Piu-ry.  The  Canadians  and  tho  In- 
dians had  j)lenty  of  employment  for  the  first  four  or  live 


v 


FRANKLIN  &,  RKIlAUDriON'ri  SECOND  JOURNKV.  2b7 


tlio  .spot), 
ri^,  to  join 
to  lliiij;  Ity 
I  doiiijf  so, 

isioii,  w(>n) 
tlicy  ilraiik 
'  <'oiitiiiiic(l 
•id  iilso  I'c- 
'  this  intrr- 
loldiuLT  tliu 
living'  licf-rl 
liscovcrcd, 
■d  (Iniiiiilit. 
ion  poured 

n'occMidiiis; 

in  iiid  of 
:  reaching, 
but  a  i:al(i 
)p('araiicM', 
rcj^aiu  tlio 
tack  to  tlio 
jcr,  wlu'io 
the  oxi)e- 
oir  winter 
ess.  Tho 
I,  and  con- 
chon;  that, 
into  tliveo 
dit  or  nino 

done  nio 
e  name  of 
etaininsT  at 
;  Fort  Re- 

po  of  lati- 
lotliing  of; 
lien,  in  or- 
iinklin  \vas 
sson  from, 
nd  tho  In- 
"our  or  live 


ninnths,  in  hunlinj:;  and  fishini;  for  the  support  of  tho 
whole  iiarty.  'V\nt  rcinih'fr  were  scarce  in  the  autumn, 
and  in  tho  winter  desei'ted  them  altoj^ethiM'.  The  fish- 
iui;  was  more  .successful,  and  durinjj;  the.  autumn  the  net.s 
yitihjed  daily  iVom  three,  to  eij^ht  hundred  lish,  of  tho 
Ivintl  called  "  herring  siUni'  n  ;"  also  some  trout,  tittameg, 
and  carp. 

Tlu^  otlicers  employei'  themscdves  in  making  and  reg- 
istei'ing  th<^  various  meteorological  ol)servations,  in  copy- 
ing tluiir  journals  and  remarks,  in  fmishing  tlu!  (diarts, 
diawings,  and  sketciies,  and  in  assisting  Dr.  Richardson 
to  examine^  and  arrange  thc!  numerous  objects  of  luitural 
history  that  had  Ixmmi  collect(!d.  JJut  it  was  "(pially  neo 
essary  to  lind  emj)loyment  for  the,  seam»'n  and  tlu;  vari- 
ous residents  of  the  house,  whose  want  Oi  education  r«Mi- 
dc^'ed  it  more  dillicult  to  provide  for.  The  plan  adopted 
by  Franklin  is  thus  described ; 

"  As  the  days  shortened,  it  was  necessary  to  find  einjdoy- 
ineut,  duriuf,'  the  loii<f  ovouiiigs,  for  those  resident  at  the  house, 
and  a  school  was  therefore  I'stablished  on  three  nights  (jf  the 
week,  from  seven  o'clock  to  nine,  for  their  instruction  in  read- 
ing, wriluig,  and  arithmetic,  which  was  attended  hy  most  of 
the  British  jKirty.  They  were  divided  in  ecjual  i)ortiotis 
among  the  oflicers,  whose  labor  was  nniply  n-paid  hy  the  ad- 
vancement their  ]inpi]s  inad(; :  some  of  tho.so  who  began  with 
tho  alphabet  learned  to  read  and  write  with  tolerai)le  cor- 
rectness. Sunday  was  a  day  of  rest ',  and,  with  the  excep- 
tion of  two  or  three  of  the  Canadians,  the  whole  party  niu- 
fonnly  attended  Divine  service  morning  and  evening.  If,  on 
the  other  evenings  for  which  no  particular  occu[)ation  was 
appointed,  the  men  felt  the  time  tedious,  or  if  they  expi-essed 
a  wish  to  vary  their  eni])loyinents,  the  hall  was  at  their  ser- 
vice, to  pl;iy  any  game  they  might  choose  ;  and  on  these  oce;i- 
sions  they  were  invariably  joined  by  tVie  officer.^.  By  thus 
participating  in  tlndr  amusements,  the  men  became  more  at- 
tached to  us,  at  l!;e  same  time  that  we  contributed  to  their 
health  and  cheerfulness.  The  hearts  and  feelings  of  the  wIkjIo 
party  were  united  in  one  connnon  desire  to  make  the  time 
pass  as  agr(>eablyas  possible  to  each  other,  until  Uie  return  of 
spring  should  enable  them  to  resume  tho  great  object  of  the 
expedition." — V.  51,  55. 

Matters  went  on  pretty  well  till  tho  conclusion  of  tho 
year ;  but,  owing  to  the  extreme  severity  of  the  weath- 
er in  January  and  February,  the  sources  from  which 


(T-f 


*ll 


1-/  - 


!      ( 


I      i 


I  y 


28S 


ARCTIC    VOYAl^Krf. 


tlioy  liatl  li'tlicM'tr,  (lorivj'd  subsistoiiro  fiiilod  tlioiii.  ''I'lio 
llicrmoiiK'It'v  It'll  to  — l!)""  on  tho  1st  of  .liiiiunry,  hciug 
tilt'  lowest  poii't  to  wliifh  it  (lesceiidtMl ;  hut  this  scvt'ii! 
wciithcr  WHS  ot  slioft  (liii'iition.  tor  on  tlic!  .'M  a  siiow- 
sfonn  ciiiTictl  it  u|.  to  — !)^  :  tho  liiiihost  tVotn  tlu^  1st  to 
the  loth  W!is  H^  H',  iuid  tlic  nifiiii  —2\V^  7'.  All  tho  aii- 
iiimls  liiul  inigrjitotl  to  the  southwiird  oxco|)t  tlit^  wolf  and 
th(^  tox.  All  tlio!  dried  meat  was  expended,  and  no  ficsii 
llesh  could  ho  procured  ;  tho  lisli  cauyht  did  not  allow 
juori*  than  three  or  foiu'  snuill  herriniis  to  oiich  man, 
which,  beiny  on*  of  season,  uHbrdt^d  little  nourishnuMit, 
and  caustnl  indisposition.  They  wtMUi  therefore  oi)li(;ed 
to  havt^  recourse  to  their  provision  of  peminican,  arrow- 
rt)()t,  and  portable  soup,  which  had  boon  set  ni)art  for  the 
voyages  aloiiij;  the  sea-coast. 

By  the  middle  of  Ajn'il  a  lar<;o  supply  of  mort  was 
l)rou<iht  up  from  tht^  stor(?s  of  tho  Hudson's  Jiay  Com- 
pany, which  put  them  (juit(^  at  east^  r(vsj)octini^  food  until 
the  season  for  th(>ii' departiu'o  ;  besides,  tho  animals  were 
bejfiiniing  to  jwur  in  from  tho  southward.  Of  those  and 
other  "  pluMiomena  connected  with  tho  progress  of  tho 
seasons  kept  at  l''oit  Franklin,"*  Dr.  Richardson  records, 
that  on  the  11th  of  September  tho  musqu^toos  ccMised 
to  b(^  troiibl(!somo  ;  on  tho  "Jd  of  October,  swans  in  lli^lit 
to  tlie  southward  ;  on  tho  oth  the  last  swans  wore  soon. 
On  tho  shortest  day  tho  sun  was  above  tho  horizon  2h. 
■^i-!m.  lOth  of  Ajjril,  a  house-fly  seen  in  tho  open  air. 
On  th(>  ()th  of  May  the  first  swans  were  seen;  on  tlio 
7th  tlu'  jj;eese  ap})eared  ;  on  t^he  8th  tho  ducks ;  on  tlie 
lull  tho  j,Mills ;  on  the  11th  the  first  rain  fell ;  on  tho  17th 
various  sinyini; birds  made  their  appearance  ;  on  tho  '2'i\\i 
the  first  lauiihing-seoso  were  soon;  and  on  tho  .31st  tho 
goatsuckers  brought  up  tho  roar :  and  many  others,  as 
■well  as  various  plants,  are  reiristered. 

In  the  course  of  tho  month  of  May  the  preparations 
>vere  nearly  comi)lete,  and  an  additional  new  boat  finish- 
etl,  after  th(>  model  of  the  Lion,  named  tho  Reliance. 
In  June  the  boats  were  all  afloat  and  maimed.  Fourteen 
men,  including  Augustus  and  two  Canadian  voyagers, 
were  to  accompany  Franklin  and  Back  in  the  Lit)n  and 
Reliance  ;  and  ten,  including  Ooligbuck  (another  Esqui- 
■  Appciulix,  J).  71,  tublo  75. 


\-' 


'U\.  I  no 
ii-y,  being 
his  scvtTtj 

I    !l    SllOW- 

tlio  1st  to 

ill  lllO   !111- 

0  wolf  and 
(1  no  iVt'sh 
not  allow 
'acli  man, 
irishnuuit, 
)r(!  ohli^iMl 
an,  arrow- 
art  tor  tlio 

iiiprt  was 
l?av  Com- 
[  food  miti! 
imals  wcro 
■  thesti  and 
•ess  of  tlio 
1)11  records, 
)0S  c(!ased 
ns  ill  lli^ht 
,vere  seen. 

ori/on  '2li. 

1  open  air. 

n  ;  on  the 

s ;  on  tlie 

In  the  17th 
1  the -2;  I h 

e  31st  the 
others,  as 

>paratioiis 

loat  finish- 

I  Reliance. 

Fourteen 

[voyagers, 

Lion  and 

ler  Esqiii- 


FRANKLIN  &l  UUiIARDriO\'ri  SECOND  JOURNEY.  289 

niiuix),  to  go  with  Richardson  and  Konuall  in  the  Dol- 
phin and  I  nion. 

The  position  of  Fort  Frmklin  was  deterinined ;  its 
latitude  55^  11'  5(i",  longiiude  123^  12'  44"  W.,  varia- 
tion -.v.)"  9'  E.,  dip  82'^  od'  1')". 

The  whole  i)arty  embarked  on  15ear  Luke  River  on  the 
24th  of  June,  the  23d  being  a  sultry  day  ;  the  thermom- 
eter in  the  shade  at  noon  71°.  and  at  3  P..M.  74^  :  tlie 
ice  drifting  down  in  large  masses,  and  with  such  ra{)idity 
as  to  HMider  eml)arcation  unsafe.  It  ceased,  how«'ver, 
at  eight  th(?  following  morning,  and  allowed  tluMii  to  pro- 
ceed :  in  the  evening  they  entei'cd  tlici  Mackenzie  River. 
On  h'aving  Fort  (iood  Hope  on  the  2d  of  .Inly,  being  on 
the  border  of  tiie  Esquimaux  territory,  it  was  deemed 
expedient  to  arm  tlie  men,  and  a  gun,  dairger,  and  ani- 
inunition  were  issued  to  each  person.  On  tlie  3d  tiiey 
reached  tlie  broad  part  of  the  river,  where  dill"erent 
cliannels  branch  olf;  and  here  the  reparation  of  the  par- 
ties was  to  take  place.  The  \vest(!rn  branch  was  the 
roule  to  be  ))ursuedby  the  boats  of  Franklin's  party,  and 
the  eastern  branch  by  those  of  Richardson  ;  the  former 
to  proceed  along  tiie  northern  coast  westerly  as  far  as 
ley  Cape,  where  it  was  expected  to  fa!!  i:i  witli  the  Blos- 
som ;  the  latter  1o  examine  the  coast-line  l)etween  the 
nnnith  of  the  Mackenzie  and  that  of  the  C\,pper  Mine 
River,  and  having  reached  tht^  latttM',  he  was  directed  to 
proceed  by  land  to  tlie  northeast  arm  of  tin;  (Ireat  Bear 
Lake,  where  a  Imat  would  meet  and  convey  him  to  Fort 
Franklin.  The  Lion,  under  the  command  of  Captain 
Franklin,  had  a  crew  of  six  men,  with  Augustus  the  in- 
terprettu*.  Tin;  Reliance,  under  tlie  orders  of  Lieuten- 
ant Back,  was  manned  with  seven  men,  consisting  of 
four  seamen,  a  marine,  and  two  Canadian  voyagers. 

Franklin's  Voi/a^e  to  the  Westward. 

To  follow  Franklin  first,  on  his  voyage  to  the  west- 
ward, after  ])assing  through  several  shallow  channels  be- 
tween islands  and  the  main,  trending  westerly.  On  the 
7th  of  July  th(5  i)arty  reached  tlie  mouth  of  the  river, 
and  Franklin,  walking  toward  th(>  shore,  disiovered  on 
an  island  a  crowd  of  tents,  with  many  Estpiimaux  stroll- 
ing among  them.  He  tlu'refore  haiitened  back  to  the 
1<J  B  u 


^ 


290 


ARCTIC    VOYAGES. 


■    I"  . 


* 


?       >:■         I 


boat  to  proparo  for  a  roiniminicalion  with  thcin,  and  to 
srit'ct  certain  articles  for  presents  and  trade.  \lo  }^av(5 
orders,  in  ciisc^  these  j)eopl(»  should  sliow  intenti(»ns  of 
liostility,  to  forbid  tiring  till  ho  should  set  the  exain])le, 
or  till  oi'dercd  to  do  so  by  Lieutentuit  Jiack. 

The  boats  st(u?i'ed  toward  tlio  tents  under  easy  sail, 
witii  the  ensij^iis  llyiniLj ;  unfortuimtely,  tliey  grounded 
wlien  about  a  mile  from  tlui  beach.  Signs  wer(>  made 
to  the  Ksfpiimaux  to  como  otf.  l^hreo  canoes  instantly 
put  olf,  but  before  they  couli^  reach  the  boats,  others 
were  lanched  in  such  (piick  succession,  that  tlu^  whole 
spac<i  betweeu  tlio  island  and  the  boats  was  covered 
witii  them.  "  We  endeavored,"  says  Franklin,  "to  count 
their  munbors  as  tlu^y  approached,  and  had  pi'oceeded 
us  far  as  seventy-tliree  canoes  and  five  oomiaks,  when 
the  sea  became  so  crowdcid  by  fresh  arrivals  that  wo 
coidd  advance  no  farther  in  our  reckoning."  It  was  sup- 
pos(Hl,  however,  that  the  number  of  persons  liad  soon  in- 
creased to  about  three  liundred,  all  pressing  forward  to 
tra(l(!,  and  becoming  more  and  more  importunate  and 
troublesome.  The  headnu)st  canoes  were  paddled  by 
elderly  men,  who  most  probably  had  been  selected  to 
open  the  conmmnication.  'J^hey  invited  Augustus  to 
approach  with  the  present  held  out  to  them.  Augustus 
then  explained  to  them  the  ])urport  of  our  visit,  and  told 
them  that  if  wo  found  a  navigable  channel  for  large 
ships,  we  should  conu!  and  0})en  a  highly  benelicial  trade 
with  them  :  with  this  tlioy  were  delighted,  tosstui  up 
their  hands  aloft,  "  raising  the  most  deafening  shout  of 
api)lauso  I  ever  heard." 

Tlius  far  all  went  on  well ;  but  an  accident  happened 
while  the  crowd  was  ])ressing  round  the  boats,  whii'li 
was  j)roductivo  of  nnforeseen  and  very  annoying  conse- 
quences : 

"  A  kaiyack  being  overset  l)y  one  of  the  Lion'8  oars,  lis 
owner  was  plunged  into  the  water  with  bis  head  in  the  niiid. 
and  iipparently  in  daiijjier  of  being  drowned.  We  instantly 
exlricaled  liini  h'oni  his  unpleasant  situation,  and  took  liim 
into  iho  boat  until  tho  water  could  be  thrown  out  of  liis 
kaiyack;  and  Augu.itiis,  seeing  him  shivering  with  cold, 
wrapped  him  up  hi  his  o\\ai  great-coat.  At  lirst  he  was  ex- 
ceedingly angiy,  but  soon  became  reconciled  to  his  situation  ; 
and.  looking  about,  discovered  that  we  luul  nianv  bales  and 


•m,  nud  to 

\lv.  ^av« 

iMitioiis  (it" 

)  (.'xample, 

■  easy  sail, 
r  gromidt'il 
V't'i'c  luado 
'S  instiiutly 
ats,  utlici's 

tlir  Nvliole 
as  covered 
1,  "tocuiiiit 

proceeded 
liaUs,  ^v]lell 
lis  that  ^\^i 
It  was  sup- 
lad  soon  in- 
;  forward  to 
[•tun ate  and 
paddled  by 
selected  to 
yugustus  to 
Augnstns 
sit,  and  told 
>1  for   larui' 
elicial  tiado 
tossed  up 

g  shout  of 

liappeneil 

ioats,  whieli 

ving  consu- 

oii's  oiu's,  its 
in  the  niiid. 
We  instantly 
id  look  him 
u  out  of  his 
with  cold, 
he  was  ex- 
lis  situation; 
iiv  l)ale^^  and 


IRAXKlilN    &    KlCIIARDriUN'ri   SECOND   JOl.UNEY.  '2i)l 

dtlu"''  articles  in  tlic  hoal.  which  had  hci-n  cniiccalcd  ti'oiii  tho 
jicople  in  tin-  kaiyacks  i)y  the  covcrinL's  iicini,'  cai'ctidiN  >|)ica(l 
over  idl.  lie  soon  hcL'an  t(»  ask  foi'  cmts'  thinL(  he  saw,  and 
(■.\|ii'c.-<scd  iiiiich  displcasni'c  f)u  oiu'  rrl'iisini:  to  coniplv  with 
lii>  demands  ;  lie  also,  we  al'tei-ward  Ifai'nrd,  excited  the  cii- 
|iidity  of  othiTs  hy  his  accouul  of  the  int>xhanstil)le  riches  in 
llie  l^ion,  and  several  of  the  youmziT  men  endeavored  to  ^'et 
into  lioth  our  boats,  but  wo  resisted  all  their  altem[)ts." — 1*. 
lUl,  lo-J. 

Tlu'y  coiitiiHied.  however,  to  ])ress.  and  made  many 
ell'orts  to  get  into  tln^  boats,  while  the  water  had  ebbed 
so  far  that  it  was  not  knee-deep  at  the  |)Iac(>  w  here  they 
lay  ;  mid  tlio  younger  men.  wtiifing  in  crowds  ar(tinid 
them,  tried  to  steal  i^very  tiling  they  conld  reach.  Thei 
JUdituice  being  iitloat,  was  driigi:eil  by  the  crowd  toward 
the  shore,  when  Franklin  directed  the  crew  of  the  Lion 
(which  Wiis  aground  and  innno\al)le)  to  endeavor  to  fol- 
low lu'r ;  hot  she  renniined  fast  until  tli(>  Kscjuimaux 
lent  their  tiid  luid  dragsio.l  iu'r  after  the  Ktdiance.  One 
of  the  Lion's  men  perceived  that  the  man  who  was 
\\\)sel  liad  ii  pistol  under  his  shirt,  whicdi  it  was  discov- 
vvod  had  been  stolen  from  Lieutenant  Back,  and  the 
thief,  seeing  it  to  be  noticed,  leaped  (uit  of  the  botd  and 
joined  his  countrynuMi,  carrying  witli  him  tli(^  great-coat 
which  Augustus  iiiid  lent  him. 

"  Two  of  the  most  powerful  men,  jumping  on  l)oard  at  the 
same  fimi',  sei/<"d  me  bv  the  wrists  and  forced  me  to  sit  be- 
t\ve(Mi  tlii^m  ;  and  as  i  shook  them  loose  two  or  three  times, 
a  tliii'd  ivscjuimaux  took  his  station  in  front  to  catch  mv  arm 
whenever  I  attempted  to  lift  luy  ^nni,  oi-  the  broad  daL'uer 
which  hung  bv  my  side.  'I'he  whole  way  to  the  sliore  they 
kept  repeating  the  word  ^  fei/nui,'  beating  i,'ently  on  mv  left 
lii'easl  with  their  hands,  and  ])ressiu.ir  mine  against  their 
breasts.  As  we  neared  the  beach,  two  oomiaks  hill  of  wom- 
en arrived,  and  ihc  'fci/mas^  aiul  vociferation  w(>re  redoubled. 
TIk?  Reliance  was  first  brought  to  the  slior(>,  and  tlie  Lion 
«lnse  to  her  a  few  six^onds  afterward.  The  three  men  who 
held  mo  now  leaped  ashore,  and  those  who  had  remained  in 
their  canoi^s,  taking  them  out  of  the  water,  carried  tiiem  to  u 
littl(>  distance.  A  numerous  ])arty  then  drawing  their  knives, 
and  stripping  th(>mselv(,*s  to  the  waist,  ran  to  the  Reliance, 
and,  having  lirst  hauled  her  as  far  up  as  they  criuld,  beirau 
a  regular  j)illage,  hamliiig  the  articles  to  the  womi'U,  wh(t, 
rammed  in  a  row  behind,  (puckly  conveyed  them  out  of  si^ht," 
—P.  101. 


4  m 


AIICTIC    VOYAGES. 


II 


.  i'     li 


(      " 


111  sliort,  jiCicr  ii  I'lirious  conicsi,  wIumi  knives  wcin 
hrandislH'd  in  a  most  tlu'ciifoiiinsi;  nimnicr.  scxcnil  nl'tlu! 
men's  (rlotlies  cut  tlifoii^li,  iind  the  hiittidis  ni"  others  toiii 
fVt)ni  their  coats.  Ijientenant  IJack  oi"(h're(l  liis  j)eo|)le  to 
seize  and  hnci  their  niwsUets.  hut  not  to  lire  till  the 
Avurd  was  i:i\en.  This  liad  the  desired  eU'ect,  the  whole 
crowd  takinii  to  their  lieels  and  liidinji  themselves  he- 
hind  tl'c  dril't-timher  on  the  heach.  Captain  l-'ianklin 
still  thoniiht  it  best,  to  tempoi'i/c^  so  lon^  as  the  l)oiit> 
were  lyinj^  aiironnd ;  tor,  armed  as  tlie  Kscpiimanx  were 
witli  lotiy  knives,  hows,  arrows,  and  spears,  lirc^-arnis 
conid  not  have  been  used  witli  advantage  against  so  nn- 
iiierous  11  host.  Fianklin,  inileed,  states  liis  conviction, 
"  consideriiiii  the  state  ot"  excitement  to  wliich  they  had 
worked  themselves,  that  the  fnst  blood  which  his  j)arty 
iiii,i;ht  imfortonately  have  siied  would  instantly  ha\(j 
been  revenf^ed  by  the  sacrifice  of  all  their  lives."' 

As  soon  as  the  boats  were  alloat  and  makiiii;  to  a  se- 
cure anchoraiie,  seven  or  eif^ht  of  the  niitives  walktd 
aloiii;  the  beach,  enter(Ml  into  conv(!rsation  with  Aii;;us- 
tiis,  and  invited  him  to  a  coiderenco  on  shore.  "  I  was 
unwillitiii  to  let  him  ^o,"  says  l-'ranklin,  "but  ili«»  biii\e 
littk^  fellow  entreated  so  earnestly  tiiat  1  would  sull'ei' 
him  to  land  and  i"ej)rove  tht^  Ks(|uimaux  for  their  con- 
iliict,  that  I  at  U'ntjth  conscMited.''  On  his  return,  bein^ 
desiied  to  tell  what  he  had  said  to  them,  "  hi;  hud  told 
them,"  he  said, 

"  Vour  conduct  has  been  very  bad,  and  inihke  that  of  all 
otiier  KMi(|niinau.\.  Soiiu;  of  you  even  stolt;  from  nie,  your 
coinilrvnian  ;  but  tiiat  1  do  not  niiiid  ;  I  only  regret  that  vou 
HJiould  have  trealed  in  tills  violent  inauiier  the  white  j)eo]»lt', 
who  came  solely  to  do  you  kindness.  JMy  tribe  \ver(!  in 
the  same  iniliii|)|iy  stale  in  wliich  you  now  are  before  tlio 
white  people  came  to  (.'hiir'-liill,  but  at  present  they  are  sup- 
plied with  every  tliiiiir  they  need,  ami  you  see  that  I  am  well 
dollied  ;  I  tret  all  that  1  want,  and  am  very  comfortahli'. 
Yon  can  not  exixu'l,  after  tie  trausacti(»ns  of  this  day,  tli;il 
these  peoph>  will  ever  bring  poods  to  your  countiy  again, 
unless  you  show  your  contrition  bv  restoring  the  stolen 
floods.  The  white  j)eople  love  the  Jlscpiiinaux,  and  wish  to 
show  them  the  same  kindness  that  they  bestow  upon  the 
Indians.  Do  uot  deceive  yourselves,  and  supposi>  they  arc 
afrtiid  of  you  ;  1  tell  you  they  are  uot ;  and  that  it  is  entirely 


:.'.i( 


lives  were 
I'nil  lit"  tliu 
itlicrs  torn 
i  people  to 
re  till  tlie 
,  the  whole 
isj'lves  he- 
ll rrmikliii 
tlie    l)oat> 
naiix  were 
;,  lire-iiriiis 
liiist  so  mi- 
coMvietioii, 
■h  they  hiiil 
h  his  piirty 
tiiiitly   hiiNt! 
es. 

iiiiji;  to  a  se- 
ivi's  walkcil 
vith  Au^us- 
•o,  "  1  was 
It  iho  hrave 
Aould  sutler 
r  their  con- 
'tiirii,  heinu 
\o  hud  lolil 

ie  that  of  all 
nu  me,  your 
•ixrel  that  you 
liile  jieople, 
•ilie  were   in 
•e  heiore  the 
ht^y  are  siiji- 
lat'l  am  well 
coml'ortahli', 
lis  (lay,  lliiit 
ounliy  af-'aiu. 
If    the    stolen 
and  wish  lo 
i)W  ujjou  tln' 
lose  they  art- 
it  is  ciilii'fly 


rilANKLtV    &    RICIIARDflOx'd    SECOND   JOURXFA'.  20.'] 

(iwlii^  to  ilieir  humanity'  that  iiiaiiv  of  you  ^vere  not  killed 
to-day  ;  tor  they  lia\e  all  l'Uiis.  with  which  thoy  can  destroy 
\ou  either  when  near  or  at  a  distance.  1  also  have  a  l'uii, 
and  can  assurt!  you  that,  it'  a  white  nian  had  liilleii,  [  would 
have  heeii  the  first  to  have  revenuod  his  death." — I'.  Kill.  1()1>. 

Thi^  Ifiiiifuuiie,  of  course,  is  that  ot"  Franklin,  who, 
however,  j.Mves  it  as  tlie  pnrpiu't  of  .Xnyustns's  speech, 
and  adds,  "  liis  veracity  is  heyoiid  all  (juestion  witli  tiio 
party."  "  AVe  could  perc«Mve,".says  Kraiiklin,  '*  hy  tlui 
shouts  of  appiiiuso  with  which  they  tilled  th(<  |)atises  iu 
hi;;  laiii^mi^e,  that  they  assented  to  his  ar<,Munents  ;  and 
he  told  us  they  liad  expressed  jLjreat  sorrow  for  liaviti'^ 
iliveii  so  much  causes  of  oHejist!."  He  said,  moreover, 
that  they  plench'd  ii;noratiee,  liavinii  inner  Ixd'oro  seen 
white  men  ;  that  they  liad  seen  so  uiany  fine  thinjL;s 
entirely  new  to  them,  that  tlu'y  could  not  rt'sist  tho 
temptation  of  stoidin^  ;  they  jjromised  never  to  (ht  tho 
like  ai;aiii,  and  j;av(^  a  |)roof  of  their  sincerity  hy  restorin;^ 
the  articles  that  had  Inu'ii  stolen  ;  and  thus,  iu  an  amicu- 
lile  maiUHT,  was  the  utlVay  concluded. 

These  people,  iu  poss(>ssiou  of  tiui  country  hord(5rin<; 
on  tlu^  coast  hetwetMi  tln^  Mackenzie  Hiver  JUid  tho 
Ixocky  iMomituins,  tippear  to  liave  assunu'd  n  more  war- 
like (diaracter.  from  tVe(|U(Uit  collisions  with  their  neij^li- 
hors  the  Dojf-rih  Indians,  tliau  their  countrymen  fjeuer- 
ally  possess.  It  was  also  ohserved,  tliat  the  farther  tho 
party  advanced  to  the  wt'stward,  the  more  tlu'y  found 
the  Ks(piimaux  features  takinti;  the  reseiid)lauce  of  those 
of  the  Tartar  race,  distiuiinished  hy  hi^h  cheek-hones, 
and  small,  ohiiquely  elongated  eyes,  not  unlike  thos(i  of 
the  Cliinese. 

"  Kvery  man  had  jiicces  of  hono  or  shells  thnist  through 
the  septum  of  his  nose  ;  and  holes  w(>re  ])iei'ced  on  each  side 
nl'  the  mider  lip,  in  which  were  placed  circular  ])ieces  of 
ivory,  with  a  larjre  hlue  head  in  tho  center,  .similar  to  those 
ii'|)re.s(Mited  iu  the  drawiii^fs  of  the  natives  on  the  N.\V. 
(oast  of  America,  in  Ktttzehue's  Voyage.  The.se  ornaments 
were  .so  much  valued,  that  tiiey  declined  sel'  \g  them;  Jiud 
wlu'u  not  rich  enouirh  to  procure  heads  or  iv<,.y,  sUnjes  and 
[lieces  of  hone  were  sid)slitaled.  These  ])erforatious  are 
made  at  the  age  of  puherty  ;  and  one  of  the  party,  who 
a]i[ieared  to  he  a])ont  fourteen  years  old,  was  pointed  out 
with  deliuht  hy  liis  parents  as  having  to  iuideri:o  the  oper- 

H    15  '.> 


'l  > 


k 


o 


!M 


AKrrir    \<iVAt;r.H. 


I 


'   \ 


1 1 


in. 


;iliiiii    III    till'    InlldW  III;;    \r.ii.       Ili'    w  ;M    ii    :'ihii|  IikiIvhi-    Iiii\_ 

illhl    we    (-iilllil    llii!    llllli'V    llhi   ri)l|Ml«'M.'llli'i>    WiMllil    1)1'    llllli  ll    nil. 
|irn\<'ll     lt\     till'     lll-'I'llilMI    >l\     till'      IllllirS     OV    n|ii||("<.    wIihIi     ||;|'   ,. 

llic  rllri  t  III  ili>|iii'.H.siti:;  the  iiiiiii'i'  li|i,  iliiii  U<'i'|Mii;;  llic  iiiniiili 
.-|..'ii."  -r.  !l;t. 

'riii<  ilrt'Ns  MJ*  till'  AVumcii  (lillcrnl  1111111  tliiif  nl'  ||ii> 
iMcii  (iiilv  III  tlinir  wciinin;  wnlo  trow.scrs.  iiihI  l)ii:'i< 
IioimIs-  »(\«>r  tlii'ir  Ik'ihIs  ;  sttmc  of  llic  yitiiiim'r  Iciiiiijcs 
liiiil  |tl»Mism!j;  (•itmili<iiiinr<"^. 

"  Tlirii  own  liliirk  li;iir  i-*  vci'v  Id-ili'liillv  liiniril  ii|i  \'vit\\\ 
l>t'liiiiil  III  tlic  li>|i  ul  lli(>  lii'iiil,  iiMil  tii'il  liv  sliiiiu"^  I'l  wliiii' 
.'till  I  Mill'  l>i',iil-<,  nr  ('uriJN  nl'  \\  iiitc  (iri'i-  mIuii.  ll  IS  ill  \  ill  I'd  III 
IliHll.  si<  U-  111  liinil  nil  I'.'li'll  siili'  M  tllli'U  lull,  til  W  llicll  lllr  ;i|> 
I'l '111  I  I'll  stniii's  lit'  Ik '111  l>  1 1 1,  It  ii'iiili  til  till'  w  ;ii'-t.  'I'lii'  \\  uiin  11 
w  err  rinin  Iniir  ;nul  ,1  li.iIT  tu  Iniir  ;iiiil  tin  re  (iiiiirti'is  Ici'l  lii:li, 
iiliil  ,';riii'i;illv  till.  Sniiii'  ul  tlic  MiiiM;;i'r  Iriiiiili'-',  iiiiil  tlii« 
•  liililn'ii,  wiTc  |ir('tlv.  Till'  linlv  wlnwi'  |iiirlr!iit  fiilnriis  iIih 
wnrU  WM-*  liii;:litilv  pli'.'isi'il  iit  lii'iii;;  sclcrtril  lis  I  .iriilrii.inl 
l^irlv  liir  \w*  ski'lfli,  iiiul  li'stilii'ii  lii'f  jnv  li\  smiles  ;iiiil  iii:ni\ 
juiii|i>.  'I'hi'  nn'il.  w  liril  silliii:;  fur  tlirir  |iiiitriiit,-«,  wrii'  iiim  m 
sciliitc,  lluuiuli  mil  less  |ilr;isi'i|,  tliiiii  tlii>  ti'iiijili's  ;  sunn'  ni 
tliriii  it'iiiMi  Ui'il  that  llii'N  wiTi'  imt  liMiulsnmi'  ciiiiiii'li  In  li.« 
laUi'M  til  iiiir  I'liimtrx  ." — I'.   I  111. 

ll;i\iiiU  liiktMi  nil  iiiiii('nlil(>  Ii'mvi'  ul'  these  people,  mi 
the  l.'lh  ol  .liih  they  put  to  sen,  iiiiil  soon  liiseiuereil  n 
jiiojet'llnti  point  of  Iniid.  to  whieh  wns  joiiieil  a  eoiiipacl 
hoiU  o|"  lee.  A  ileiise  I'oii  set  in.  willi  n  stion^  i;nle  ami 
henw  fiiin.  With  coiisiihTnlile  dniiiier  to  tlie  hnat-, 
ntliM"  I'ue  hotirs*  pnHiiii;  lietwetMi  masses  of  ice,  tlie\ 
stiiM'eeileil  in  ut'l'mu  loiiiul  ('apt*  Saltlne.  nml  Iniuleij  a 
little  111  llie  west  of  it.  I  lere  iht'v  ohserveil  much  woimI 
coal  on  the  haiiU.  On  the  l.'ilh  thev  proceeileil.  hnviiii; 
MotiC(>il  the  ice  loi  seneil  tVom  th(>  lamj.  nml  ndvanceii  to 
a  fivei'  which  thev  nnmed  l>alil)a;zc.  the  width  near  its 
month  hi'iiiii  about  two  miles.  Mere  it  was  olisei\eil 
that  the  KocUy  Mountnlus  run  in  detached  riin«:es,  at 
imeipial  distances  tVoiii  tlu^  coast.  'I'hiMr  latitude  was 
{!;!  "   r.»  .  loiiiiitndt*  l;>S  '   10', '. 

()n  the  ITth,  lindiin;  a  chamuM  of  water  h(^tween  an 
island  they  named  llerschel  and  tin*  main.  th»\v  entcfcd 
it.  and  tliis  strait  is  reportt>d  to  he  "  tin*  only  place  that 
we  liad  seen  sinc(<  (piittiiiii  tlie  MacKen/.ie  Ixiver  in 
whi«'h  a  sltip  could  timl  slieltef."  Its  latitnd«>  was  (i'.i  ' 
;>:>',•.  lonuitiide   l-"';^'  ;'    \V.      'I'h*'   ice   and  the   shallow- 


.1 


1  inK  III"     liii\  , 

»'  iiiinli  nil. 
\v  liK  li  li:n  ■• 
;;  IIh'  iiiniiil, 

lliiit    ul'  l)i.< 

mill    liMi'i' 

^<>r  rt'iiiiili'4 

I'd  ii|i  riiiiii 

;,'rt  nl'  \\  lull- 
i.s  i\\\  iilril  III 
liirli  ;iir  :i|i 

rill'  \\ iijiii  II 

T'i  trrt  llij'li, 
\i'>,    illld    tlic 

I  Miliini'^  llii-4 
,'  l.ii'iili'iiiiMl 
rs  .'iilil  iii:in\ 
I,  were  iiim  h 
's  ;  sniiH'  III 
iiini:',li  III  li.> 

piMtplc.  nil 
isi'iu  (M't'il  :i 
I  a  roMipat'! 
11^  ^lilc  Mini 

lllC      l)(lllls. 

•  I"  icr.  tlir\ 
III  hiiiilcil  :i 
micli  Wdiiil- 
iI(mI.  Il!l\ill^ 
MilviiiictMl  Id 
llh   iifiir  iN 

IS     oIlSflM'll 

I  fiiiiiirs,  at 
atitU(l«>  was 

l)<'t\V(HMl    !UI 

icy  t'littTt'il 
s-  pliici'  tliaf 
ic    Jxivt-r   ill 
(U«  WHS  (i:! 
lie  sliiillow- 


ni.WKI.IN    A.    KirilAllDHON  M    HI'.COM*    JOI  It  \  F.  V .   !J!),"| 

li("-s  III' ||m>  wnirr  liryuinl  it  si-iiwiuij  suincw  Iml  clicrKnl 
llh'ii'  |t|•lt^|■^'ss,  iiijil  iiii\r  liiiii'  liir  i''raiiKiiii  Id  \i-.iI  AlDiinf, 
( 'DiiyltDiiiD,  DiiD  dI  iIid  iDcky  iiiliyrs  lii>  liiiij  si»  ihiimi'iI, 
IrDiii  nlinicD  lir  lijiij  an  cxlriisuf  \n'\v  d|'  iIid  siiccdssidii 
d|  laii^rs,  Id  all  wliicli  lie  assigns  iiaiiu's,  tliat  |»iDliaMv 
air  iidI  ilDDiiit'tl  to  Mu  liryiiinl  llif  pa'^i'  thai  CDiilaiiH 
lliDiii,  and  iTi'tainly  mil  In  |iDstfiily.  <  >ii  tlii-  '.';;d  u 
naiiDW  D|)('nm"  ni  tin-  ice  alinwrd  tlii'iii  Id  lUDcrrd  as 
lar  as  a  sniall  sliraiii,  wliirli  tlwy  niiiiiril  Sn'  I'liltcncy 
.Mali'Dliii,  and  which  had  i^iscii  thcni  an  advance  d|  ten 
miles.  Itiiwldcrs  dI"  mccnslDiic,  sandslDiic,  and  liiiic- 
sIdiic  wcic  rDiind  near  the  niDiilh  dI'  this  river,  deeply 
sealed  in  I  he  ^lavcl  iil  the  licfich. 

<  Ml  the  '.Mh  DJ  .Inly  I  hey  can  le  Id  the  ninntli  dI'  a  widn 

river,    which,    pniceedini;   liDni    tl Iiiilish    runye    nl" 

ni(»inilains,"  "and  lieini:,"  says  {''ranUlin,  "the  niDsf, 
wes|erl\  iver  in  the  Urilish  dinniniDiis  ini  ihis  cdiisI,  and 
near  the  line  dI  deiiiarcatiDii  lielwcen  (Ileal  j>nlaiii  and 
Kiissiii,  I  naiiied  it  iIk^  ( 'Ifltence,  in  Iidiidi-  dI'  his  rnval 
highness  the  Inrd  liii;h-adiniral."  ["i'diii  hence  I'd^^'s  and 
liin^-cDiiliniicd  iiales,  rain,  and  heavy  pieces  dI'  dril'l-ico 
cDiilinneil  Id  interrnpl  their  |»rDi;iess  till  the  llh  dI"  ,\n- 
Uiisl,  when  they  jell  in  with  a  parly  dI"  trading;  and 
peaceahle  Msipiinianx,  tVoni  whom  they  learned  that  tln> 
cnast  herDie  them  was  similar  to  that  (iIdiih  which  they 
had  heen  travelini^.  They  were  nnw  in  lal.  71)  '  .'>', 
Iiaii;.  1  I.'!  '  .').")'.  h'nr  sdiiic  lime  past  ihey  had  [inlled 
the  liiials  outside,  or  to  seaward  dI'  the  cDiilinned  reef 
DJ'  rocks  and  gravid,  iihoiil  two  miles,  and  a  little  laither 
on  I'onnd  the  water  \A'vy  shallow  and  perreclly  I'resh. 
'I'd  anolher  lar^e  river  they  i^ave  the  name  ol"  ( 'amiiinjj, 
opposite  to  Avhich,  al  three  miles  iVom  the  shore,  tin* 
water  was  slill  IVesli.  This  river  was  of  course  ruiiniiig 
thronuh  the  Kiissiai)  dominions. 

The  farther  they  advanced  westerly  the  more  denso 
the  loiis  hecMine  ;  not  a  day  elapsed  in  which  they  did 
not  occur;  the  tempei'iiliire  descended  to  :','y\  and  tlu> 
ji^alcs  of  wind  hecanie  more  cmistant  ;  at  nii,dit  tln^  watcir 
lro/,(> :  and  the  middle^  of  Aii<j;ust  liavin;;  arrived,  the  win- 
ter miiiht  here  he  said  to  liave  set  in  ;  the  inor(^  oai'ly, 
|)roI)al)ly,  from  the  vicinity  of  thi^  l\ocky  .\romitains,  and 
the  extensive  swampy  [ilaiiis  helwecMi  them  aiidthi!  sea. 


'  ? 


I    f 


<l 


/i"  i 


♦290 


ARCTIC    VOVAGES. 


1;    , 


f      ; 


-ii. 


'it 


), 


H 


I        f 


r       >  • 


'f 


Tbo  Minn  liad  sunVrcd  iniirli  finni  tlio  liiird  labor  'if  |iiill- 
iiil.'  hikI  ilraiiiiiiiii:  llif  heavy  lioals.  and  tVom  <(»ld  as  well 
as  ratiiiiic.  It  will  readily  l>«'  ludievcd,  IV<»mi  tiie  clnwac- 
fcr  (if  tlif  iiiaii.  that  it  was  with  no  ordinaiy  (U'tirec  of 
pain  tliat  Franklin  coidd  brin^i  liiniself  even  to  think  of 
reliii(|nisliin<;  the  yreat  oliject  <»f  his  aniliition,  or  of  di>. 
appoinlini;  the  (latterin;^  confidence  that  had  heeii  repos- 
ed on  his  exertions.  "  lint,"  he  says,  "  I  had  liiyher 
dnties  to  pertorni  than  the  {jratificatiiai  of  iny  own  feej- 
inus :  and  the  inature  j-onsideration  ol"  all  the  aliove  nait- 
ters  force(|  me  to  the  conclusion  that  we  had  reachcfl 
that  point  beyond  whicdi  perseverance  Avould  he  rash- 
ness, and  onr  best  efforts  innst  be  fruitless."  He  there- 
fore, with  lull  a|)prol)ati()n  of  his  coinpanions,  set  out,  (Hi 
the  iHth.  of  Au^Mist,  oil  Ills  return  to  the  Mackenzie, 
from  the  extreiiu*  point  liaiiied,  named  by  him  the  Retiirn 
Keef.  in  lat.  70  '  -Ji'  N.,  Ion-.'.  1  lit'   :\7''  \V. 

About  tliis  time,  as  it  at  erwai'd  appeared,  the  Hlos- 
soin's  boat,  sent  by  IJeechey  from  Helirinu's  .^trait,  ar- 
rived on  the  coast,  on  wliich  Franklin  obsei-ves  : 

"  Could  I  have  known,  or  bv  possibility  iiii;i;.'ined,  that  a 
party  frnin  tlie  lilnssoiii  bad  been  at  the  distance  of  only  1(11) 
miles  from  nie,  nodillicidtics,  diui^xers,  ordiscouraj^iiip  circnju- 
ptaaces  should  have  prevailed  «»n  ine  to  return  ;  but  taking 
into  accttuat  tlii>  uncertainty  of  all  voyaj,'es  in  a  sea  obstnut- 
ed  by  ice,  I  liad  no  rt<,dit  to  expect  that  the  Blossom  had  ad- 
vanced beyond  Kot/.ebue  Inlet,  ca*  that  any  j)aity  from  her  had 
doubled  the  ley  Cape." — 1'.   1  ().'>. 

Captain  Franklin  states  the  distance  traced  westerly 
from  the  mouth  of  tin;  Mackenzie  lliver  io  have  been 
.'5T  1  miles,  aloujL;  one  of  the  most  dreary,  miserable,  and 
uninterestiufi  portions  of  sea-coast  that  can  perhaps  be 
f(juial  in  any  part  of  tlu'  world  ;  and  in  all  that  space, 
not  a  hai'bor  exists  in  which  a  ship  could  find  shelter. 

The  return  voyai^e  was  equally  luirassinfj;  to  the  one 
just  completed.  Near  Ilerschel  Island,  however,  they 
had  a  narrow  escape  from  the  elfects  of  a  violent  storm 
on  the  ocean  : 

"  As  the  afternoon  wore  away,  gloomy  clouds  gathered  in 
the  northwest ;  and  at  six  a  violent  scpiall  came  from  that 
quarter,  attended  with  snow  and  sleet.  The  gale  increased 
with  rapidity  :  in  less  than  ten  minutes  the  sea  was  white 
with  foam,  and  such  waves  were  raised  as  I  had  never  beibro 


FRA\KI-IN'    &    UK.'HARDSON'rf    snrONn   JOIJRNIIV.  Q07 


)or  of  piiIN 
iild  as  well 
ic  cliiinic- 
(IciiriM'  <»|' 
()  tliinU  of 
,  or  of  (lis- 
('»'ii  n'|)os- 
iikI  liiyluT 
own  iVcl- 

ihoVC    IIKlt- 

(1  n-Uflic'l 
1  l)f  msli- 
llr  tlicre- 
si4  out,  on 
*la('k('n/.i<', 
ho  Koturn 

lli«'  nios- 
S trait,  ar- 

's  : 

iiifil,  timt  ;i 
of  o!ily  HiO 
;itig  circiiiri- 

Imt  takiii;^ 
i>ii  ohstnicT- 
oiii  had  ad- 

)in  her  had 

d  Avcstcrly 
liave  \tvvn 
rahh;,  and 
x'rhaps  ho 
liat  spaco, 
shelter, 
to  tbo  Olio 
over,  they 
)luut  storm 


gathered  in 

from  tliat 

e  increased 

was  Avhite 

ever  before 


111  Til  ('\|tii>ril  til  ill  .1  lidiit.  Tlie  spriiy  atid  >i';i  hiulvc  tiNcr  ii.^ 
iuccssinitly,  and  it  wjih  witli  dilliciihy  tlial  \\r  t-tmld  keep 
\\-ri'  liv  h;iirni;r.  Our  hitir  Vf-srls  wrnt  thrmiirh  thr  w.ili-r 
wilii  ^reat  velocity,  iiiidfr  ii  close-r'-rfcd  Miil,  Imisti-d  iihuiit 
tlwee  teet  up  tht>  niaiiiniiisl,  and  |irovi'd  thiiiisclvrs  to  lie 
\cry  himyant.  'llicir  sniidl  >i/e,  hnwe\cr,  :nid  the  natino 
III'  their  constna'tioii,  iiecr>siirily  iidiiptrd  fur  the  iiavi^'aticiii 
of  siiiilldv.' rivers,  niililtfd  them  fer  w  itii>tjiii(nii^' the  .-en  then 
rimniuL',  ami  we  were  in  imminent  dim^'er  of  liinnderiin,'. 
I  thereflire  resolved  on  maUinu  f<^v  the  shnre,  as  the  only 
meiins  of  siiviim  the  p;ivty.  !ihli(»iiL.'li  I  \v,is  jiwiire  that  in  so 
dnimr  I  incurred  the  h.i/iird  of  stavin;.'  the  lioats.  there  liein^ 
tew  places  on  this  part  »tf  the  coast  where  there  was  sutlicient 
lieach  under  the  liroki  n  ciills.  The  wind  liiuwini,'  aloiiir  llie 
land,  we  could  not  venture  on  expo-iu;:  th(>  lioal's  side  t(» 
tlit;  sea  hy  liaidiu;,'  directly  in,  hut,  ed^duir  away  with  the 
wind  in  that  i|u,'irter,  we  must  providentially  tndk  the  ^'idimd 
ill  a  faviiraiile  >[i(it.  The  Imats  were  instantly  lilled  with 
tlie  siirl.  hut  they  were  iinlnadetl  and  dra^fjed  up  withmit 
liaviu;,'  sustained  aiiv  material  diini;e_'e.  Impressed  with  a 
sense  of  gratitude  for  the  si;,'iial  deliverance  we  had  experi- 
enced III!  this  and  other  fKTasions.  we  assembled  in  the  even- 
iiii.'  to  oH"er  up  praise  and  thanks^ivin-;  to  the  Alinij,dity," — 
r.  17-J.  17:}. 

( )ii  tbo  '21st  of  Septeiiiher  tb(>  party  reached  I'ort 
F^rniiklin,  where  they  liad  tbo  bappinoss  ot"  iiu'etiiiii  all 
their  friends  in  safety  :  tin?  eastern  detaclniioiit  btid  ar- 
rived on  tbi^  1st  of  Sej)t(Mnher,  after  ji  most  siiccessftd 
voyage.  Franklin  says  that  the  distiince  trtivehMl,  in  tbo 
throe  niontiis  of  their  ahsenco  from  i''ort  Ki'tinkliii, 
amounted  to  two  thousand  and  forty-»>igbt  statute  mik's, 
of  wbicli  six  liundred  and  ten  were  through  parts  not 
j)reviously  discovered. 

"  I  can  not  (dose  this  acctamt  of  onr  sea  voyaire  without  ex- 
pressiiiif  the  deep  ohlii:ation  I  feel  to  Lieutenant  liack  for  liiK 
cordial  co-operation,  and  tor  his  zealous  and  unwearied  assi- 
duity during  its  la-oi^ress.  *  ^  *  *  ;\Iy  warmest  thanks 
are  likewise  due  to  the  men  of  my  party,  who  met  eveiy 
obstacle  with  lUi  ardent  desire  to  surmount  it,  and  cheeriiu- 
ly  exerted  thenis(dves  to  the  utmost  of  their  power.  Tlitdr 
cool,  steady  conduct  is  the  more  connneiidahle  as  the  sea  nav- 
iijatirm  \vas  entirely  novel  to  the  whol(>  exce]>t  to  the  seamen 
Duncan  aial  Spinks.  and  Hallom.  cor|)or!il  of  mariiK^s.  The 
Canadian  voyagers,  Felix  and  Vivii'i-,  first  saw  the  ocean  on 
this  occasion." 


■•■i^  -  ■■■ 


k  i 


1  '  " 


I        ■ 


4.1 


h 


i'lil 


1 


•I<v,     ,         I 


5>98 


ARCTIC    VOYAGES. 


Vr.  Rlchardsoii's  Voyage  to  the  Edsfivard. 

Tin*  iiarnitive  of  I)i'.  Ivicliardson  is  briffly  and  lucidly 
toM.  Accordiiii:;  to  his  iiistructiniis,  lie  lind  to  tntr«^  tli(< 
rojist  brtwccii  tlio  Mackctizic  jiiid  Coppor  Mine  Ivivcrs, 
mid  to  rctiini  tVom  tiic  liittcr  ovci-liind  to  Fort  h'l-jmkl'ii. 
ITis  party  consisted  ot'liinisnil",  \ho  intcrpiX'tr-rOoliyljnck, 
and  i'onr  men,  in  tlio  Dolpliin  ;  and  Mr.  KokIjiJL  in  tli(^ 
I'nion.  On  leaving  Point;  Separation,  in  one  ot"  the 
))ran('iies  of  tlie  .Maei^en/ie,  on  the  4tii  of  .lulv,  he  made 
fr)r  Middle  ( 'hainnd,  out  of  whieh  he  entered  a  brunch 
Jlowiiiij;  to  the  (^astwai'd.  tlie  land  i>(;iinf  low  and  niais'iv, 
and  tlie  sunnnits  of  the  banks  loaded  with  di'ifr-tinil  cr. 
'IMiese  ilats  were?  enlivened  hy  the  busy  tliiiht  and 
cheerful  twitteriuii;  of  the  sandniaitins,  which  had 
S('Of)ped  out  thousands  of  nests  in  the  banks  ;  ''  we  wit- 
nessed with  pleasure  their  activity  in  thinnin<;  the  ranks 
<»f  our  most  tormentinij;  foes,  tlie  nmsquetoes."  At  for- 
ty-two miles  tlie  paity  canu;  to  the  comnujiicement  of 
Hoindeer  Hills  on  the  main-iiind,  clothed  with  trees;  to 
their  tops. 

On  tJH^  5th.  liavinjT  made  above  forty  miles,  th(*y  en- 
(•ami)ed  ;  and  here  a  s[)ruce-tree  was  seen  of  the  unu- 
sual circumferences  of  seven  feet  at  four  feet  tVom  the 
jj;round.  On  the  following  day,  in  bit.  ri9°.  the  Eastern 
Channel  made  a  turn  round  this  point  of  the  Jxeindeer 
Hills,  whi(di  here  terminatcMl;  and  liere  also  Wiis  a  small 
island,  })oss(!ssinif,  according  to  Mackenzie,  a  "  saci'cd 
character,"  being  still  a  l)urial-j)lace  of  the  Kscjuinuiux  : 
it  was  called  by  Kichardson  the!  "  Sacr»>d  Island."  Here 
also  the  channel  terminated,  by  several  islands  dividnig 
it  into  as  many  branches.  On  some  of  the. .i,  and  on  va- 
rious i)arts  of  the  coast,  tlie  bituminous  shale  was  no- 
ticed to  be  on  tire  ;  and  in  some  parts  of  the  clilfs  ap- 
j)eare(l  as  if  they  had  fallen  down,  owing  to  the  con- 
sumption of  the  combustible  strata,  and  terminating  in  a 
green  and  sloj)ing  bank.  The  attraction  of  oxygen  by 
tlie  sulphur  causes  th«^  combustion,  whi(di,  as  the  doc- 
tor observes,  is  made  more  lively  by  the  presence  of  bit- 
umen. 

They  now  steered  along  tlie  main  shore,  and  speedily 


h'. 


i 


Richardson's  voya(;c  to  tfie  eastward.  299 


'.rd. 

kI  lucidly 
triic(^  tlio 
le  Rivers, 
Fi'iinklin. 
)()li^l)iick. 
mi  ill  tlin 
le   ot"  tli(^ 

,  ho  lllfKh; 

fi  hi'iuicli 
1  nijus'iv, 
it'r-tinil  LT. 
Iliiilit  and 
liicli  hiid 
''  we  wit- 
tho  rutiks 
'  At  for- 
;(MiUMit  ol" 
li  trees  to 

,  tlioy  eii- 
■  the  umi- 
:  from  tlie 
10  Eastern 
J\eindoor 
,'as  a  small 
a  "  sacred 
<(|uimaiix  : 
1."     Hero 
ds  dividmii; 
and  on  va- 
1»^  was  no- 
)  dill's  ap- 
[)  the  con- 
iiating  in  a 
oxygon  by 
IS  the  doe- 
nico  of  bit- 
id  speedily 


foil  ill  witli  n  tribe  of  Ksfpiimaiix,  who  used  throat oiiiii!^ 
iaii'Mia'^o  and  yosliiros.  wIkmi  ()()liirl)n('ii  said  tliov  woro 
bad  people,  ''  ontvoatoil  me  to  embark,  took  mo  on  his 
back,  and  carried  me  on  boai'd."  As  the  conduct  of 
lliese  people  was  v(>ry  similar  to  that  which  Franklin 
mot  with,  and  not  dilforiiiii  nuUorially  from  those*  iiiliab- 
itiiii!;  the  eastern  coast  of  Mellville  Peninsula,  it  will  not 
be  Tn'cossary  to  notice  the  numerous  parties  ot  these 
])e(;ple  mot  with  on  this  voyagi^.  It  may  be  oi)sorved, 
that  on  this  occasion,  by  judif;ious  manafiemcMit  on  the 
))art  of  liichardson,  th(5  necessity  of  firino;  upon  them 
was  avoided.  Those  poor  creatures  had  no  doubt  the 
sani'  excuse  as  those  wlio  attacked  I  ranklin ;  they  had 
never  soon  white  men,  and  never  prolMibly  heard  of  thcj 
only  one  that  their  i:roat-2;ran(lfathers  mii,dit  liavo  scmmi. 
1  lavin>j;  ji^ot  rid  of  tl  ^  Ksquimanx,  suddenly  a  violent  gale 
arose,  that,  by  sottin<!;  on  the  shore,  oblifrod  them  to  take* 
sholtei-  in  [\efuij;(i  Cove,  in  hit.  (>!)"  'J!>',  which  they  left 
the  folloNving  day  ;  but.  from  the  badness  of  the  weather, 
and  the  ice  oxtiMiding  on  the  sea  to  the  northward,  they 
made  little  jirogress.  At  their  halting-place  on  the  13th, 
the  doctor  says  : 

"  .Mvviads  ot"  Hins(|n(^tocs.  wbicli  n^posed  amoii!!  the  irrnss, 
rose  ill  clonds  when  (listurl)e(l.  and  ^^^ve  i;  ■»  much  aiiiioyaiiio. 
M;inv  Kiiow-binls  were  liatcliiiig  on  the  point,  and  we  saw 
swans,  Ciuiada  iii'esi'.  eider,  kiiii:,  arctic,  and  siiif  docks;  sev- 
•  Tiil  irlaucous,  silvei-y,  bliick-hradcd,  and  ivory  fjiills,  together 
with  terns  and  nortlieni  divers.  vSoiiif  lauidiiiiir-ireese  p;issed 
to  liie  northward  in  the  eveninir,  which  may  !)e  considered 
as  a  snre  indication  oi'  land  in  that  direction." — 1'.  "J  17. 

On  the  1 1th  they  took  shelter  fnnn  the  fog  and  a 
lieavy  gal«>  in  a  cove  called  ]>row(d  Cove,  in  latitude  70  \ 
longitude  130^  1!)'.  It  was  supposed,  the  water  being 
brackish,  that  it  proceeded  from  an  immense  lake  not  far 
from  the  beach,  known  by  the  name  of  the  Ks(|ninmux 
Lake.  Of  this  largi^  sheet  of  water  Dr.  Richardson 
gives  tlu!  following  account : 

"  Taking  for  granted  that  the  accounts  we  receivt ;!  from 
the  natives  were  (as  oar  own  observations  led  us  to  believe) 
correct,  Ks(|iiiinaux  Lake  is  a  ^vry  extensive  and  cnrionrt 
pit'ct^  ot"  watiM-.  The  Indians  s.iy  that  it  reaches  1o  within 
fonr  (lavs'  march  ot"  Fort  (iood  Hope;  und  the  F.sqniniJMix 
iutlirrn'Ml  ns  ihat  it  rxti-iids  troni  Tcint  l"ncount<'r  to  (';iii<'  Ba- 


'\ 


Si 


4 


300 


ARCTIC    VOYAGES. 


i! 


I. 


-i  1  ■ ' 


Mj- 


I 


I    ; 


thiirst,  lliiifl  nsrribiiip  to  it  an  extent  ffom  north  to  Hoiitli  of 
more  thiiii  one  linndred  uikI  forty  milerf.  juid  tr(»in  east  to  \ve>t 
(»t"  one  liiniilred  iuid  lit'ty.  *  **  **  If  a  eonjeeture  iiuiy  Im-  Imz- 
nrdcd  aljout  the  orij-'iiiiil  foniiatioji  of  a  lake  wliieli  we  Jiail 
Ko  few  f>[)])ortiMiifies  of  examining,  it  st^enis  pro])al)le  that  tlio 
alhivial  matters  hroiiirht  (h)\\ii  hy  the  Mackenzie  and  other 
rivers  have  <,'ra(hially  formed  a  l)arrier  of  islands  and  shoals, 
which,  hy  ])r.'veiitinf:  the  fn^'  access  of  tin;  tide,  enables  llio 
fresh  water  to  niaintHin  the  ])redomiiiance  liehiiid  it.  Tlio 
action  of  the  waves  of  the  wea  lias  a  tenthMicy  to  increase  tlio 
hei^djt  of  the  harrier,  while  the  cnneuts  of  the  rivers  and 
ehh  tide  ]>res(?rve  the  depth  of  the  lake.  A  great  formation 
of  wood-coal  will,  1'  douht  not,  Ik;  ultimately  formed  l)y  tiio 
innnense  (juanlities  of  ilrift-tlmher  annually  deposited  on  tho 
borders  of  llsipiimau-K  bake." — 1'.  22''). 

On  the  loth  tliey  inado  a  traverse  often  miles  across 
an  itdi^t,  tlie  water  of  wliicli,  runniny  out  in  a  stroni:; 
curnMit,  and  ncnirly  fresh,  was  supposed  to  he  anotlier 
coinniunicatlon  of  tlie  Ks(juinianx  Lake  with  the  sea. 
They  nannd  it  llussell  lidf^t.  The  latittuh;  was  70"' 
rj,  and  the  h)n^itude  I'i!)-  -21' ;  and  hoi-e  tlu'  main-land 
trended,  as  they  wished,  to  tlu>  soutlieasl  ;  foi",  liavini; 
passed  the  low  coasts  and  shoals  wliich  extend  as  far  as 
the  lake  contiinies,  it  was  expiK-ted  that  the  ohstrnction 
to  their  proi^ress  would  ceas*?,  as  in  the  whole  of  this 
distance  tln\y  had  to  cross  channels  of  shallow  water, 
encunihered  with  hanks  of  shingle,  and  the  water  nioro 
fresh  than  salt. 

On  Mie  IWth,  sailin<i  between  some  islands  and  tlio 
main,  a  large  parly  of  Ks(piimaux  rushed  out  to  tho 
shore,  brandishing  their  knives,  using  threatening  ex- 
pressions, and  forbidding  them  to  land.  ]?ut  on  Rich- 
ardson bawling  out  '•  harter,"  they  were  peaceful  in  a 
moment,  and  brought  such  goods  as  they  possesscnl  on 
bo.n-d  :  so  easily  are  savages  Uianaged  by  judicious  treat- 
ment. 

"  The  females,  imlikf^  those  of  the  Indian  tribes,  had  much 
handsomer  features  than  the  men  ;  and  one  yoimg  woman  of 
the  party  would  have  i)een  deemed  ])n'tty  even  in  Kurojie. 
Uur  presents  seemed  to  render  them  jx'rfcctly  happy,  and 
they  danced  with  such  ecstasy  in  their  slender  boiiLs  as  to  in- 
cnr,  more  than  once,  great  ha/.ai«l  of  being  ov«M'set.  A  bun- 
dle of  strings  of  heads  being  thrown  into  an  oomiak,  it  was 
cautjlit  hv  an  old  woman,  who  hmri^ed  the  treasure  to  her 


RICllARDSON'ri    VOYAGE    TO    THE    EASTWARD.  301 


to  Rontli  of 

C!ist  to   \V('.>t 

iiiay  bt;  liiiz- 
licli  \vc  hiid 
.l»le  that  tlio 
e  iiiul  otlii'i' 
i  nnd  slinals. 
cnalilos  tlio 
lul  it.  'Ilio 
incroaso  tlio 
-i  rivern  and 
at  f'oniiatioii 
•iiu'd  l)y  tho 
)sitL'd  on  tho 

nilcs  across 
iii  a  sti'oiii^ 
be  anotb«M' 
rh  tho  sea. 
1(5  was  7(P 
(>  iiiaiii-laiid 

for,  havitiff 
nd  as  far  as 

obstruction 
lolo  of  this 
How  water, 
.vator  iiioro 

Is  and  tlio 
out  to  tho 
litoniuii  ('\- 
t  on  Kich- 
aceful  in  a 
sscssod  on 
ions  trcat- 

is,  bad  much 
YJ.  woman  of 
in  Kuro])!'. 
liii|)|)y,  and 
[>at.s  as  to  in- 
L't.  A  l)nii- 
Iniak.  it  was 
Lsure  to  luT 


breast  with  the  stronL'fst  pxprcssidii  of  rapture,  while  another 
I'ldcrly  (hiuif,  wlio  had  strctchnl  out  licr  arms  in  vain,  b  ■- 
tame  the  v«'ry  picture  of  despair.  On  my  explaining',  how- 
ever, that  the  pn-scnt  was  fur  the  whole,  an  amicaldc  division 
instantly  took  place;  and  to  show  their  i^ratitude,  tln-y  sang 
a  soni^  to  a  ])leasiiii,'  air,  krrpiiii;  time  with  their  oars.  I'li^y 
gave  us  many  pressiiiir  invitations  to  |«a.-is  the  ni^'ht  at  tln-ir 
tents,  in  which  they  wi*re  joined  l)y  the  men;  and  to  excite 
our  liberality,  the  mothers  drew  the  childrt-n  out  of  their 
wi(b'  boots,  wliere  they  an;  accustomed  to  carry  them  naked, 
and  holdiuLT  them  \\y,  bejrged  beads  for  them.  Their  entreat- 
ies were,  tor  a  time,  successful  ;  but,  being  desirous  of  getting 
clear  of  our  visitors  before  breakfast-time,  we  at  length  told 
them  that  our  stock  was  exhausted,  and  they  took  leave." — 

At  on(^  of  their  halting-placo.s,  tho  interesting  little 
anecdote  of  tho  .snow-hunting's  lu'st,  mentioned  by  Cap- 
tain Lyon,  could  not  fail  to  be  brought  to  their  recollec- 
tion by  the  following  iiu-i(h'nt  : 

"  In  taking  wood  to  make  a  fire  from  a  large  {)ilo  of  drift- 
tind)er  which  had  been  collected  by  the  Ks(|uimaux,  the  nest 
of  a  snow-bird,  containing  four  young,  was  discovered.  Tlie 
parent-bird  was  at  first  scared  away,  but  affection  tor  its  otf- 
spriiig  at  length  gave  it  courage  to  approach  them  with  food; 
and,  as  it  was  not  molested,  it  soon  became  (piile  fearless, 
and  fed  tin  ni  with  the  larva;  of  in.-^ects,  while  the  party  were 
seated  at  breaktiist  close  by  the  nest." — W  'j:}.">. 

Through  a  small  opening  in  tho  land,  which  with  the 
main  formed  llarrowby  J>ay,  tiie  boat.s  passed  with 
great  difficulty,  being  nearly  barred  up;  tmd  liu;  mo- 
ment they  had  crossed  the  bar,  th<^  Wiiter  wa.s  greenish 
and  perfectly  salt.  The  <'astern  point  of  the  passage 
lies  in  latitudt^  70-  ■'}()',  longitude  107^  3o' ;  and  Point 
J')athurst  proved  to  be  tho  most  northerly  part  of  the 
main  they  approached  during  the  voyage.  From  ihis 
])oint  the  coast  trended  southeast  into  Franklin's  IJay,  in 
latitude  Gi)^^  '.20' ;  rose  on  the  east  to  Cape  Ptu'ry,  in 
latitude  70^  o'  ;  descended  again  to  Daridey  iJay,  hi 
latitude  09^  35',  the  eastern  cape  of  which  is  in  latitude 
(i!)^  4')',  front  whence  the  main  shore  gi-adually  trjMids 
to  the  south\^ard  of  east,  sU  (ft  to,  and  hold,  with  hert* 
and  there  a  small  bay  .md  projecting  point,  till  it  reaches 
Cape  Krusenstern,  previous  to  which  the  party  passed 
tliruugh  a  bruud  chuimol,  named  tlie  Uuion  and  Dolnhiu 

Cc 


?>>'? 


mrmmemm 


HIiPIII 


1^ 


:■:,{ 


!|^, 


1  '  1 


k 


'fill! 


ii 


ao2 


ARCTIU    VOYAfiLH. 


Strnit,  iiiid  fonnod  hctwpfn  n  loiiq;  tract  of  elevated  larul 
to  the  iiortlnvfiid  and  tln^  iriaiii  shore,  to  which  was 
fliveii  the  name  of  Wollaston  fjand.  In  this  strait  fln-y 
wer(!  impeded,  and  the  Dolpliin  was  nearly  crushed,  by 
two  masses  of  ice. 

As  soon  as  she  was  rendtn'ed  sea-worthy  lliey  j)ro- 
ce»Ml«>d,  hut  the  flood  tid(!  sot  with  such  velocity  round 
a  rocky  point,  and  brouj^ht  with  it  so  iruich  ic(?,  that  it 
was  th()U<:lit  ))rudent  to  ))ut  asliore.  The  violent  (tidies 
in  the  currents  tiiere,  tluj  doctor  says,  "reminded  us 
forcibly  of  the  poet's  description  of  Scylla  and  Char>b- 
dis."  The  naviyation  of  the  Dolj)hin  and  Union  Strait, 
he  says,  would  be  dauiierous  to  ships,  from  the  many 
sunken  rocks  wliicli  we  observed  near  the  southern 
shore. 

A  little  beyond  the  strait  is  a  rocky  promontory,  to 
which  Dr.  Richardson  uave  the  name  of  Cape  Krilsen- 
stern,  in  honor  of  the  distinyuisluHl  Russian  hydro^rra- 
l)her;  its  latitude  was  68°  23'  N.,  lon^ntudo  113=^  4.y 
W.,  and  it  is  tlu;  most  eastern  i)art  of  the  'and  which 
th(\y  coasted.  J^'rom  this  point  the  coast  trends  to  tho 
southwest,  and  ap))ears  as  if  foi'mine;  the  western  side 
of  what  is  called  in  the  charts  (leorge  the  Fourth's 
Coronation  (iidf,  a  mistake  occasioned  by  brin<iiag  t!ie 
letters  ol'the  title  on  the  chart  too  far  to  the  westward; 
i(»  the  southward  of  it  is  Cape  Hearue,  which  Franklin 
and  Ivichai'dson,  in  a  former  visit  to  the  moutli  of  tho 
CopjxM"  Mine,  saw  only  at  a  distance,  appearinjf  as  an 
island.  To  th(^  southward  of  Cape  liearne  is  the  mouth 
of  the  Coj)per  JMine  River.  Richardson  now  announced 
to  the  men  that  a  short  traverse  would  brini^  them  to 
the  mouth  of  this  river.  "  '^^Phe  gratifyinj^  intellifrence," 
he  says,  "which  we  now  conveyed  to  them  Avas  totally 
iuiexi)ected,  and  the  pleasure  they  experienced  found 
vent  in  heartfelt  expressions  of  ^^I'atitude  to  the  Divine 
Beiuii  for  his  protection  on  tlie  voyage." 

'J'he  south  coast  of  the  Polai'  Sea  could  not  be  ex- 
pected to  produce  much  variety  of  objects  in  the  vej^eta- 
ble  part  of  the  creation,  remarkable  either  for  their 
utility  or  beauty.  J3r.  Richardson  thus  sums  up  what 
he  observed,  or  collected,  on  the  portion  traversed  by 
liim,  whicli  he  estimates  ut  about  nine  hundred  miles : 


M 


I, 


RICHARDSON  S   VOYACE    TO    TIIK    EASTWARD.    ^^03 


'vntod  liind 
kvliicli  was 
•slniit  tljcy 
rushed,  by 

■  llicy  j)r()- 
)city  round 
ic(?,  llmt;  it; 
lout  oddics 
minded  us 
id  C:iiiiryl)- 
lioii  Str.iil, 
tlio  many 
J   southoru 

iiontory,  to 

)e  Kruscu- 

hydrogru- 

Q  113^ '4.y 

';ind  which 
Mids  to  tho 
astern  sido 
a  Fourth's 
■inijiag  t!io 
west  ward  ; 
h  FraukJiu 
utli  of  tho 
rini>;  as  an 
tho  mouth 
announced 
g  thojii  to 
elligenco," 
^vas  totally 
iced  found 
the  Divine 

not  bo  ox- 
l^he  vegota- 
•  for  tlieir 
IS  up  what 
iversed  by 
ed  miles : 


"We  noticed  on  the  <-onst  about  one  buncb-ed  ntid  seventy 
fhiiiiosrainoiis,  orllowei-iiiir  ]>l!iMfs.  bcinir  one  fifth  oCtbe  niinii- 
ber  of  !S])ecies  wliicii  t^vist  iifteen  de'.'rees  of  lutitude  faitber 
to  the  soiitiiward.  The  ^^-asses,  hents,  and  rusbe.s  ccmstitiito 
only  one  fiftb  of  the  number  of  s[)('cies  on  tbe  coast,  hnf  tbo 
twf)  Ibnner  trilx-s  actually  cover  more  f^yround  than  all  tbe 
rest  of  the  ve<,'etation.  the  cruciti.'rous  or  cross-lik(«  tribe 
atford  on<»  seventh  of  the  species,  and  tbe  conii)ouiid  flowers 
are  nearly  as  numerous.  Tb<>  shnihln/  p/aufs  that  reach  the 
sea-coast  an^  tho  connnon  juniper,  two  .species  of  willow,  the 
dwarf  birch,  the  conmion  alder,  tbe  hij)])ophir',  a  froosebeirv, 
the  red  bearberry  (Arh/tfi/.s  nva  iirsi),  tbe  J.abrador  tea-i)lan't[ 
ih'j  Lapland  rose,  the  hog  whortleberry,  and  the  crowheny. 
The  kidney-leaved  oxyria  j,'rows  in  f,'r(>at  luxuriance  there, 
and  occasiouahy  hn-nished  us  with  an  agreeable  addition  to 
our  meals,  as  it  resembles  tho  garden-sorrel  in  ilavor,  hut  is 
more  juicy  and  tender.  It  is  eaten  by  the  natives,  and  must, 
as  well  as  niany  of  the  cress-like  plants,  i)rove  an  excellent 
corrective  of  the  gross,  oily,  rancid,  and  frecpiently  putnd 
nieat  on  which  they  suhsist.  The  small  bulbs  of  the  Alpine 
bistort,  and  die  long,  succulent,  and  sweet  roots  of  many  of 
tho  Astragalea',  which  grow  on  the  sandy  shores,  are  eatable, 
hut  we  did  not  learn  tliat  the  Jlstpiimaux  were  acipiainted 
with  their  use.  A  few  chnnps  of  white  sprucMir,  \vith  some 
straggling  black  spruces  and  canoe-birche.^,  grow  at  the  dis- 
tance of  twenty  or  thirty  miles  from  the  sea,  in  sheltered  sit- 
uations on  the  hanks  of  rivers." — P.  '2(M,  265. 

In  concluding  his  siccount  of  tho  sea  voyage,  Dr.  Rich- 
ardson adds  the  h)llowing  ])uragrapli,  which  is  highly 
creditable  to  iMr.  Kendall,  the  iissistant  surveyor  : 

"  The  completion  of  our  s(^a  voyage  so  early  in  the  season 
vyas  a  subject  of  nuitual  congratulation  to  us  aU ;  and  to  Ah*. 
Kendall  and  myself  it  was  highly  gratifying  to  behold  our 
men  still  fresh  and  vigorous,  and  ready  to  connnence  the  la- 
borious march  across  the  barren  groun(is,  with  the  same  spirit 
that  they  had  shown  in  ovtnroming  the  obstacles  which  pre- 
sented tliemselves  to  tlieii-  progress  by  sea.  We  all  felt  that 
the  comfort  and  ease  with  whic-h  the  voyage  had  been  jjcr- 
forined  were  greatly  owing  to  the  judicious  and  j)lentihil  |)ro- 
yisi(m  of  stores  and  food  which  Captain  Franklin  had  made 
for  us  ;  and  gratitutle  for  lis  care  mingling  with  thi'  pleasin-o 
(wcited  hy  our  success,  and  directing  oin-  thoughts  more 
strongly  to  his  party,  the  most  ardent  wishi^s  were  expressed 
that  they  might  prove  e(pially  fortiniate.  The  cdrrei'tiiess  of 
Mr.  Kendall's  nx-koning  was  another  soiu-ce  of  pl(>asure. 
Having  been  deprived  "of  the  aid  of  chronometers  bv  tho 


1 

i 

■  \ 

1  \ 


•  1 


li 


.  ^  It 


I 


> 


I 


1' 


yoi 


ARCTIC   voya(;k.s. 


brciikiiiLT  of  till'  two  iiitctiilid  I'nr  llic  cJisttTM  (Ii'tacliiiit'iil  of 
llic  fspi'diiinii  (liiriii:^  tlir  iiitt'iisc  v\  iiilri'  coltl,  niir  milv  rr- 
Hniircc  till-  ((irrrctiii;^  tlif  di'ail  ci-cktiiiiii^'  Wiis  liiiiiir  rilist'i\,i. 
tiiiiis,  iii.kIi-  ;is  rirt|iiriitly  as  M|i|i(niimitit'w  (illrii-d  ;  yet  wlicn 
\\('  ii|i|irii;ulicd  tin-  ('n|i|)iT  Miiif  Iti'cr,  Mr.  Kriididl's  n-ik- 
oiiiiii,'  diHrifd  Iroiii  lln-  |Misili(iii  of  lliat  |tla((',  iim  asccrtaiiii'd 
nil  ('aplaiii  I'lardtliii's  rnriiicr  rx|MMlili(iii.  only  twrntv  seconds 
ot  time,  11°  ahont  two  miles  and  a  liall  ot  distanc*',  wliieli  is  a 
\eiv  tiitliiii;  diireiciiee  when  the  leiit,'tli  of  the  voyaije  and  the 
oilier  (  irciinistanees  are  taken  into  eonsideiatioii.  'i'he  dis- 
laiice  lielween  I'oiiit  Separation  and  the  month  of  the  Coppei* 
Mine  h'i\er,  l»y  the  I'oiite  we  pin'sned,  is  nine  hniith'ed  and 
two  statute  nnles." — I'.  'Jdl.  'J(l-J. 

Iliivinu;  tims  cniiipJi'ltMl  llicir  V(>yiii;»>  l>y  iirriviiiij  at 
the  moiilli  ottlie  Coppci"  .M  iiu'  Kivci',  imd  iiiiain  noticed 
till'  ciipt's  Mild  islands  seen  iVoni  tlienct'  joiiilly  hy  Kicli- 
iiidson  and  I'^ranklin  on  a  tornier  occasion,  and  now  hav- 
in^  cerlilied  to  he  land  what  was  then  only  conici'Iiire, 
lliey  pidit'edi'd  up  the  river  as  lar  as  IJu^  IJIoixly  Falls, 
jihe.\e  which,  for  about  iorty  miles,  the  rivor  was  lunnd 
lo  he  so  lull  ol  rapids,  and  to  flow  owv  such  an  iincNeii 
and  rocky  hcd,  and  its  current  so  precipitous,  as  to  \n> 
wholly  inipracticahle  to  ascend  it  in  hoats  of  ii  iireiiter 
(Irauuht  tlian  a  lew  inches.  They  therrtore  lel'l  the 
I  nioii  and  the  Dolphin  hoats  at  the  iJloody  l''all,  stow- 
iiij;  in  them  a  miniher  oi"  small  articles  for  the  use  of  the 
Ks(piimaux  who  tVetpient  this  spot  ;  and  havin<,f  distrib- 
uted amoijo  the  |)aiMy  a  certain  (piantity  ttl"  p»Miiiiiican, 
jxMtable  soup,  and  other  articles  ol"  provision,  the  wiiole 
jimountiiiir  to  about  si'xcntv  iiomids  to  each  man.  tlu'V 
set  out  on  loot  lor  Hivise's  Miver,  on  (»r«'at  l^ear  Lake. 
A  boat  had  been  appointed  to  convey  them  across  the 
lake  to  I'\ti1  h  raidxiin.  Hy  this  plan  a  journey  would 
lu>  savtMl  of  three  hundred  miles,  and  et"  thre«»  wei'ks, 
Avhicli  a  walk  round  the  liiki^  woulil  have  re(|uired  ;  be- 
side>,  it  spared  them,  in  addition  to  much  tatii:ue  and 
Hutlerinii.  the  wear  and  tear  ol"  tiiiMr  small  stock  ot" 
shoes,  almost  already  «>xhansted,  and  of  their  clothim:, 
Avhich  was  but  ill  adajJted  Tor  thi»  frosty  niyhts  of  Sep- 
tembt>r. 

Som(»  little  (h'lay  occuritMl  in  tht^  arrival  of  the  bont 
on  DeaisiA's  Ixi'ci  but  they  reached  Fort  Franklin  on 
lije  l^<t  of  ?>ej)teniber,  "  luid  received  ii  warm  welcome 


KlCllAUDf^O.N'.S    V0VAt;K    Ti)    TllK    KAriTWAKi).    iiUS 


I'llllirnl  III' 
ir  iiiily  ic- 
II'  iilisriMi- 
ycl  uliiii 
bill's  Ir.U- 
is('ri't;iiii('i| 
ity  sfi-niids 
wliicli  is  :i 
!,'('  iiiul  iIm- 
Tlir  .li>- 

llC    ("opplT 

iiidn'tl  iiiid 

irrivini};  iil 
ill  iHitictMl 
l)y  Kicli- 
iiow  iiiiv- 
uiijccliirt', 
(xiy  l'';ills, 

WHS    loll  IK  I 

an  uiic\tMi 
s,  lis  to  l)(^ 
II  iirciittT 
(•  left  thi^ 
''all,  stow- 

I1S(>    Ol'  till' 

111:;  (listrib- 
iiimiciiii, 
lie  whole 

Hill.  tllfV 

ir  IjaUc. 
icross  the 
cy  would 

o    Wt'i'Us, 

iriMJ ;  b»'- 

itiijuo  and 

stock   of 

clothini;, 

s  ot"  St>|)- 

tho  boat 
iiiiklin  on 
J  welcoiiH"! 


Ol 


Iroiii  .Mr.  Doast',  iiflor  iiii  iibst'iico  of  scvonty-oiio  ilays, 
ti'iiiiiii  wliicli  poriod  wo  liiid  tiii\o|od  by  liinil  mid  wiilor 
olio  llioiisiiiid  sovoii  iimidi'od  and  iiiiio  ijt'oi;rapliical,  or 
iiiiit'trrii  liiiiidrod  and  «M{i;lity  sliitiilo  miles.''  |)r.  Kicli- 
ardsoii  adds  : 

"  iiasiii','  now  liroimlil  tlir  iiiiriiilivo  of  the  prococdiiiL:^  of 
till-  oMstiTii  dolMcliiiM'iit  to  11  roiicbisioii,  tlio  ploiisiii^  di'tv  lo- 
iiiiiiiis  of  o.\piTs.HiML'  my  firiititiido  to  liic  parlv  fiic  tlicir  <-li<'cr- 
tiil  and  uix-dii'iit  coiidiic).  .Not  a  iiiiii-miir  of  discoiitoiit  wan 
beard  tliroii^di(tiiI  tbe  \oyat,'e,  lint  eveiy  individual  eiii;M^'ed 
w  illi  alacrity  in  tbe  lalmiioiis  tasks  be  was  called  upon  to  per- 
Innii.  Wbeie  all  bebaved  witli  tbe  ^'reatesl  /.eal,  it  wonlil  bo 
inxidioiis  to  ])articnlari/e  any;  and  I  am  liappv  to  base  it  lit 
inv  power  to  add,  tliat  since  onr  return  to  I'lit'laiid,  (iillot 
(coxswain),  Tucker  (carpenter),  and  Tysoe  (marine),  wlio 
were  in  II..M."s  service  previoiiH  to  tlieir  beiii^'  employed  on 
iIm'  e.\|)editioii,  bave  been  rewarded  bv  |)roinotioii.  Oiu* 
i^ood-nalnred  and  tititlifnl  Msipiimaiix  Irieiid,  Ooli^dinck,  car- 
ried witb  bim  to  bis  native  land  tlie  wannest  wislies  and  es- 
leriii  of  tbe  wliole  parly.  II  is  attai'bmeiit  to  lis  was  never 
doubtful,  even  wbeu  we  were  .'^nrroiinded  by  a  Iribe  of  bi« 
own  nation. 

"'fill'  L'eneral  abilities  and  itroCessional  skill  of  mv  comj)an- 
ioii,  .Mr.  (now  Lieutenant)  Kendall,  are  dnly  ajtpreciated  in 
liif,dier  (piarters,  and  can  derive  bnt  little  In.sler  troin  any  en- 
loL:iimi  from  me;  bnt  I  can  not  deiiv  invself  tbe  ^oatilicatioii 
m!  record i 111,'  mv  deep  sense  ot  tbe  L'ood  tortiine  and  liap|)iiies(4 
I  I'xpeiieiiced  in  beiiii,'  as>ociated  witb  a  ^'entleman  of  such 
j'leasiiii:  manners,  and  one  upon  w  bo>e  Irieiidly  sn|)pt»il  and 
suiind  indirmeiit  1  could,  witb  confidence,  rely  on  occasions  of 
diilicnlty  and  doubt  iu.separable  from  siicli  a  voyage." — I'.  '2lV.i. 

n'his  kind-hoartod  and  tuost  amiable  man,  Dr.  Kieli- 
ardson.  could  not  pass  ov»m'  tin?  incident  of  bostowinji  on 
a  bay  the  name  of  Franklin  without  rticordinij;  a  kind 
and  well-dcservcd  complinuMit  to  that  liigiily  meritorious 
oificer. 

"  It  would  not  be  i)roj)er,  nor  is  it  my  intention,  to  descant 
on  the  j)rofe.ssional  merits  of  my  superior  ollicer;  but,  after 
liavin'z  served  under  Captain  I'"raiikliu  f(M'  nearly  seven  yeai'H, 
in  two  successive"  voyages  of  di.scoveiy,  1  trust  I  may  be  al- 
lowed to  .sav,  that  however  high  bis  l)rotber  ollicers  may  rato 
iiis  courage  and  talents,  either  in  the  ordinary  line  of  his  jao- 
fessioiial  duty  or  in  the  field  of  discovery,  the  hold  he  acquires 
upon  the  atVectioiis  of  those  nnch-r  his  conimaml,  by  a  contin- 
ued series  of  the  most  cjuciliating  atteutioas  to  tlioir  feelings, 


'l-v, 


ll 


»  , 


T 


yo^i 


AKfTIC    VoVA(iKr». 


'I     ' 


iiiitl  ii  imifdrin  mnl  iiurrmillinLr  rfjnnl  t<»  llirir  l)(»st  iiilcrcsN, 
is  iiiit  Ifss  ciiiisiticiiniis.  I  I't't'l  tli;il  lln'  srntimi'iits  of  niv 
fViriuls  .-iiiil  niiiiininioiis,  (';i|»l!iiti  Hack  !iii(l  l^ii'iilrriiiiit  Ki-ti- 
ihill.  ;irc  ill  imisdii  willi  iii\-  own  wlici  I  ;illinii  lli.it  irnililiiilf 
iiiid  Mttiiclimnif  til  ittir  l.ilc  cuiiimiiiidiiiu'  iiHici-r  will  MiiiiiiiiU' 
<nir  liifMsts  to  tlu'  iiiti'sl  pi'iiud  (if  our  lives." — I'.  '..^{(I,  •S\7 . 

'riiat  lifiilituilc  mid  iittacliinciit  \wrr  rxprrHscd  vvcic 
r(*tiiriit'(l  ill  I'lill  iiiciisiirc  fo  Dr.  Kicliiird.soii,  not  only  liy 
lli<^  coniinnndinir  oKicci",  hut  Itv  cvcm'v  individiiiil  cm- 
])loy»'<l  on  tlhf  two  V(  y tmes,  and  also  liy  llu^  natives  with 
wlinm  tjiey  had  intercourse,  and  hy  wlioni  liis  unironn 
Kindness  and  linnianily  were  duly  iippreciatj'd.  Krank- 
)in  always  acUnowlediied  that  to  liis  t!iieri:y  of  clmracter 
iind  jiroinptitnde  ol  action  aiv  to  Ix^  jiscrilied  the  safety, 
not  aloiu^  of  himself,  hut  of  the  surviving  party  of  tlie 
first  expedition,  to  insur«^  wliich,  in  fact,  he  risked  liis 
ow'ii  life,  and  made  ii  sacrilic(>  of  the  best  feelings  of  his 
benevolent  nature. 

\'et,  by  some  unaccountable  accident  or  oversight, 
tliis  excc^lleiit  olticer  was  not  honored  witli  that  distinc- 
tion w'liicli  was  conferred  on  his  companions.  Sir  .)(t!in 
Franklin  iuul  Sir  (leorge  Hack,  nut,  whatever  the 
cause  of  the  omission  nuiy  have  been,  it  lias  at  length 
been  I'ectilied  by  an  a[)|)lication  of  Lord  IJaddington  to 
Sir  .lames  (iraham.  to  solicit  her  majesty  to  confer  on 
liiin  the  honor  of  knight  liooil,  wiiich  has  been  graciously 
iirantcMJ. 

To  return  to  tlw  general  narrative,  of  which  little 
now^  remains  to  be  said  :  The  end  of  September  having 
arrived,  it  w^as  deemed  expedient  to  pass  a  great  part  of 
another  winter  at  Fort  Kranklin.  Jt  jiroved  a  severe 
one.  By  a  record  in  Franklin's  ,ournal,  the  thermom- 
eter on  th(>  morning  of  the  7th  of  F(^bruary  descended 
to  — 5H'' ;  it  had  been  — i)7^'r>  and  — FyT^'',]  thrice  in  the 
coiu'se  of  tiiis  and  the  ])receding  day  ;  between  the  r)th 
and  Hth  its  general  state  was  from  — 48^  to  — o"J-, 
though  it  occasionally  rose  to  — 13°. 

No  time,  liowever,  was  lost  in  the  commencement  of 
breaking  up  the  party.     Dr.  Ricb.ardsoti  was  the  lirst  to 
depart:  lie  left  in  December,  for  the  purpose  of  joining 
]N[r.  Dnunmond,  the  assistant  botanist,  in  the  Saskai 
chawau  River,  tliat  he  miglit  have  the  benefit  of  an  ear 


.t    I 


IKANULIN    &    Kl(  IIAKUS(jN'ri    SKCuM)    JoCKN'KV.   'JOl 


<\  iiilcrcsfs, 
•iits  (»r  iMV 
I'liiml  Ki'ii- 
i1  t,'i';itiliiilc 
/ill  Miiiinati.' 

.';!(;,  v::i7. 

ss(m1  were 
ot  only  liy 
idiml  i'lii- 
itivcs  witii 
is  unirunii 

1.        Fl'lUlk- 

■  clmiiiftcr 
I  ho  siit'cty, 
rty  of  llic 
risked  Ills 
lings  ol'  his 

ov»'rsii;hf, 
lilt  (listiiic- 
4,  Sir  .loliii 

iltCVtM'     lllt> 

s  iit  hMiuth 

Idiiiiitoii  to 

coiilVr  on 

iiniciouslv 

hich   little 

I)(M"  haviiii: 

cat  part  of 

1  a  scvorc 

tlicnnom- 

ll0SC»Mld(Ml 

irico  in  the 
on  tho  r)th 
to  — -rJ-, 

icement  of 
tho  first  to 
^^  of  joiniiiiT 
he  tSaskat 
t  of  an  ear 


li(M"  sprini";  than  at  Kort  l''ninklin  ti»  collect  plants.  On 
the  Kith  of  l"\'ltniarv  Anu'iisliis  and  two  hoy-ril)  In- 
dians \ver(^  sent  ioiward.  ( )n  the  -JOth  ('aptain  h'rank- 
lin  loft  the  lort,  accompanied  liy  five  of  his  men  and  two 
Indians:  and  ('(Miiniander  Ihick  was  directocl  to  proceed 
to  \  ork  l''actory,  thence  hy  the  lindson's  May  ship  to 
I'liiiiland,  takinj;  with  him  the  llritish  party,  and  sendinjj; 
the  ( 'anadians  »  >  .M(tntro;d. 

"On  (|uittini,'  Norway  I1(mis(\"  says  I'^rankliii,  "  w(* 
took  leav(s  of  onr  worthy  companion  Autinstns.  Tho 
tears  which  he  shod  at  onr  pai'tini,',  so  ininsind  in  thoso 
nnciiltivatoil  tribes,  showed  tlu^  strontjth  of  his  tVudiiiiis, 
and  I  have  ua  (:)iil)t  they  proceeded  iVom  a  siiKN're  af- 
fection; an  alloction  which  1  can  venture  to  say  was 
mntnally  iolt  hy  every  individual.''  This  most  excellent 
youiiii  """1  ""'I  Ooliiihuck  were  t(»  ho  conveycMl  tf» 
Churchill  to  rejoin  their  fiimilies,  and  b'ranklin  took  can^ 
that  tlu^  ])ay  due  to  them  was  iiundod  over  to  the  direct- 
ors of  the  niidson's  JJay  Company,  to  bo  distributed  to 
tluMii  annually  in  tho  way  suited  to  their  wants. 

It  may  be  proper  liere  to  introduce  a  few  words  in  fa- 
vor of  a  nejilocted  and  unwarrantably  (lespis(Ml  race  of 
men,  tho  Ks(piiniaux.  A  few  samples  may  suffici%  and 
better  luted  not  bo  souulit  for  than  those  of  Aufjustus, 
.lunius,  Ooliiibuck,  and  Sackhouse;  and  anionu;  tho  fe- 
males, Jlii>liuk.  Of  th(!se,  Ooliybuck  Avas  tlie  only  nialo 
tliat  survivcid  tho  period  of  the  expeditions  luM-ein  d<nail- 
od,  and  lie  siibsequ«;ntly  accompanied  J)(^aso  and  Simp- 
son, and  is  hisjhly  spoken  of  by  them  for  his  honesty, 
(idelity,  and  utility.  Kicliardson  greatly  esteemed  him. 
.lunius  is  supposed  to  have  j»orislied  on  Franklin's  first 
expedition,  by  losing  his  way,  and  dyinsj;  of  cold  and  hun- 
iior ;  and  Augustus,  of  whom  too  much  can  not  be  said, 
also  perished  in  tluj  same  way,  in  his  attempt  to  join 
Commander  iJack,  us  will  be  seen  in  the  following  chap- 
ter. 

On  hearing  that  Captain  Back  was  in  the  interior,  pro- 
ceeding toward  the  sea-coast,  poor  Augustus  set  out  on 
foot,  in  company  with  two  others,  from  Hudson's  Hay, 
to  join  liim ;  they  parted,  and  for  a  long  time  nothing 
was  heard  of  him,  but  a  note  from  one  of  the  Company's 
servants  said,  "  I  apprehend  that  poor  Augustus  has  been 


'h-ff 


f. 


'tl 


r 


1 


% 


^1 


.108 


ARCTIC  voy.\(;i:h. 


stiirved  to  dt'atli."*  Siicli  wiis  tin'  inisiM-iililc  fMid  of 
poor  AiiitnstMs — 'mi  riiitlil'iil,  disiiitprrstcd,  kiiid-lu'iuit;(l 
ciciitiin',  \vli(»  liiid  \v(»ii  the  rcL'in'd  of  nil." 

Siicklioiisc  was  also  a  most  aiiiiahh^  and  ititflij^cni 
yoiniii  man,  who  died  |)t'»(Tal)ly  amoiiy  tiu^  iVicnds  ho 
iiad  a'"|uii'(Ml  in  Scotland,  and  of  whom  thoriMs  an  inln- 
rstinn  hi(»nra|)hical  memoir  in  lilackwood's  Alaua/inc, 
supposed  to  have  heen  written  hy  the  late  ( 'a|)tain  Hasil 
11  all.  J>r«)iight  to  Ijeith  in  a  whalinif-ship,  the  owners. 
])leased  witli  his  maimers,  paid  hii»;  every  attention,  had 
liim  tan<:ht  a  little  Kn^lish,  and  si  ,>\  him  hack  the  t'ol- 
lowiiiii  season,  to  renuiin  or  not,  accordinji  to  his  own  de- 
sire. I  lis  sister  had  died  in  iiis  ahsence,  and  Imvinj;  im» 
iiiher  relative  livinj:;,  he  determined  to  abandon  his  conn- 
ti'v  and  t(»  I'etnrn.  ( )n  arriving  at  Leith  he  was  met  hy 
Mr.  Nasmyth.  the  artist,  who,  lindins:;  he  liad  a  taste  for 
drawing,  kindly  ollered  him  liis  instructions.  On  the 
reconnniMidation  of  Captain  Hall,  liei  was  enyaiied  as  iii- 
terpi'cter  on  tiu>  lirst  Arctic  voyajje,  and  proved  so  use- 
ful tiiat  lie  was  a|)pointed  for  the  second  voyujio.  In  tlu! 
mean  time  Im  visited  his  kind  friends  in  Kdinhur^h.  In 
pursuit  of  his  studies,  and  in  the  midst  of  happiness,  he 
was  s 'i/.ed  with  an  inllummiitory  com[)laiut,  which  car- 
ried liiiii  off  in  a  few^  days. 

1  hi  is  descrihcid  as  possessing];  a  ))leasin{i;  simj)licity  of 
iiumners,  a  countenanco  expressive  of  ^'ood  humor,  to 
liuve  IxMMi  fond  of  society,  and  always  desirous  of  learn- 
ing  something.  His  kindness  to  children  was  very  strik- 
ina; :  two  of  tliese  In^  fell  in  with  on  a  snowy  day  at  somo 
distance  from  Leith,  shiverinff  with  cold.  Sackhouse 
took  off  his  jacket,  and  carefully  wnippinR  them  in  it, 
brouffht  them  safely  home.  Wlien  sensible  of  his  ap- 
l)roachinji  end,  he  thanked  his  friends  around  him  for  all 
their  kindness,  hut  said  it  was  of  no  avail,  for  his  sister 
had  api)eared  to  him  and  called  him  away. 

'^riie  writer  says  ho  was  unafU'ectedly  ])ious,  and  when 
death  was  approaching,  he  held  in  his  hand  an  Icelandic 
Catechism  till  his  streufrth  and  sight  failed  him,  when  the 
book  dropi)ed  from  his  grasp,  and  he  shortly  afterward 
expired. 

But  if  any  doubt  could  be  entertained  as  to  the  supe- 
*  See  Backs  account  of  tlic  late  of  tliis  excellent  man. 


2*  i      f 


•  i;. 


nl»l(*  f'lid  of 
Uiiid-linii'tt'd 

id  iiilfllij:ciil 
('  tVit'iids  li(( 
()  is  ail  inter- 
's .Miiuu/jiif, 
['ii])taiii  Pfiisil 

tilt'   (tWIH'IS, 

tttt'iitidii,  iiiid 
hiicU  tiic  lol- 
()  his  own  i\r- 
iiid  lmvin<j:  no 
don  liis  coun- 
I'  was  iiR't  l)y 
lad  a  taste  tor 
jns.     On   tlio 
Jii^ayod  as  in- 
roved  so  use- 
yuiie.      In  the 
linhui'fih.      In 
hajjpiness,  he 
it,  which  car- 
simplicity  of 
od  Iminor,  to 
rous  of  learn- 
us  very  strik- 
day  at  some 
Sackhouse 
them  in  it, 
e  of  his  ap- 
lul  him  for  all 
for  his  sister 

IS,  and  when 
lun  Icelandic- 
in,  when  the 
|ly  afterward 

to  the  svipe- 

Lt  muu. 


FR.WKLIX  &  RrCFI.\RD30\'rf  Si:CO\n  JOIJRVEV.  300 

riority  of  the  Esquimaux  over  all  other  races  of  peoph^ 
whom  \vti  are  pleased  to  call  savai;es,  let  us  turn  to  tim 
jiii^es  of  I'arry,  where  he  descrihes  the  superior  mtel- 
lectual  faculties  of  that  extraordinary  woman  IliuJiuk, 
who  in  a  moment  was  mad(«  to  comprehend  the  naturo 
ol'  whatever  was  brought  under  her  notic(>,  and,  amoiijH 
other  thinys.  that  (»f  tlu!  compass,  as  heiny  the  means  ol' 
ffuidinj;  her  hand  to  |)encil  out  on  paper  the  lines  of  two 
extensive  (;oasts,  on  two  opposite  si(h's  of  the  samo  land, 
united  hy  a  loufj;  strait,  with  islands  and  other  particulars, 
all  of  which  were  t'oimd  to  l»o  sulliciently  correct  to  jiuidt^ 
I'ariy  to  tlu^  object  of  his  research.  The  ea^eriH^ss 
with  whi(;h  her  scrutini/iiiff  eye  was  directed  to  tho 
forijcs  and  tho  operation  of  weldinii  iron,  jjave  a  stronjj; 
j)roof  of  her  intpiisitive  and  saj^acimis  mind.  Jler  son 
was  little*  interior  to  horscdf  in  mental  capacity. 

Indeed,  the  order,  <;o()d  conduct,  and  skill*  of  the  peo- 
ple, from  whom  Parry  receiv(Ml  so  much  useful  infor- 
mation, and  tiuMr  superiority  over  tlie  j;;eneral  class  of 
huniaii  beiin;s,  can  not  b<^  (hniied;  nor  that  the  means  of 
instruction  alone  are  wanting  to  brin<f  thorn  rapidly  into 
!i  state  of  civilization ;  but  so  loiiif  as  they  continuo  to  bo 
hemmed  in  to  tin*  distance  of  not  many  miles  from  tho 
sea-coast,  and  by  hostile  and  unonlij^htoned  tribes  in  tho 
interior,  their  tinu*  and  th(*ir  energies  are  wholly  em- 
ployed in  the  means  of  scdf-defense,  and  self-pr<*serva- 
tion  tVom  famin*;.  i*arry  has  justly  contrasted  thoso 
dark  vices  of  savage  life,  ferocious  cruelty,  resentment, 
and  revenge  in  the  Indian,  with  tlio  gentle  Esquimaux  : 

"  WIkmi  viewed  more  nearly  in  their  domestic  ri'lations,  tho 
coniparison  will,  I  believe,  be  still  more  in  their  favor.  It  is 
here  as  a  social  being,  as  a  husband  and  the  father  of  a  family, 
promoting  within  his  own  little  splieretlie  benelit  of  that  com- 
munity ill  which  I'rovidence  has  cast  his  lot,  that  the  moral 
character  of  a  savage  is  truly  to  be  songht;  and  who  cautm'n 
without  hornu'  from  tho  Ksquimaux,  j)eacoal)ly  seated  after  a 
day  of  tioiiost  labor  witli  his  wife  and  children  in  their  suow- 
bnilt  hut,  to  the  self-willed  and  vindictive  hidian,  wantonly 
plimging  his  dagger  into  tlie  bosom  of  tho  helpless  woman 
whom  nature  bids  him  cherish  and  protect  /" 

Mr.  Druminond  is  the  only  on(>  of  the  party  that  now 
remains  to  be  noticed.     From  Cunberland  House  ho  ac-. 
*  Dis])liiyo(l  in  their  consmu'tiuii  ol'siiowluiilt  housos. 


>hi 


aio 


AUCTK*    VOV.-.tiKrt. 


Il 


il.i 


\ 


I       J 


)! 


t 


n    I 


c(im|)!ini(Ml  tlm  Coiiipiiny's  'oats  with  u  hrifiadc  of  tind- 
(M's  tor  tlui  ( 'oluMll)ill,  rlt'tci'liiilicil  to  prorcnl  with  thrill 
as  I'ar  as  thr  Kocky  .Mountains.  To  ( 'arltoii  lloiisr  is 
two  hnndrrd  and  sixty  iiiilt's.  Lcaviii<;  this  on  th*-  1st 
ol"  ScptomlxT,  thry  proctMMh'd  to  Kdmonton,  which  is 
uliout  t'oiii'  liniidrcd  miles,  and  i-tMicht'il  it  on  th(^  'JiMh  of 
that  nioiith.  Ono  hiiiKh'cd  iiiiies  I'arther  brought  tiu'in 
to  Assinahoiii  on  thn  J{«Ml-(hM;r  Kiver.  From  thiMico 
they  pro(;(M'(h'd  up  this  riv«M*  to  thn  mountains;  hut  tho 
canoo  hciny  much  hjinhrrt'd,  it  was  lu-crssary  tliat  soiiio 
ol"  tln^  party  sliould  travel  hy  land;  "and  of  that  iiiiiii- 
her,"  says  ^1  r.  Drummond,  "  1  voluntecrod  to  be  one."' 
A  heavy  lall  of  snow  rendered  the  march  very  fatiiiuiii", 
and  what  with  the  woods  and  swam|)s,  tlie  horsl^s  hecaiiio 
useless  before  they  yot  halfway.  About  tiu^  end  of  De- 
cember he  took  up  iiis  winter  (juarters  on  tin's  JJajitiste, 
a  stream  which  tlows  into  the  Ked-deer  Kiver.  On  the 
journey  he  says  he  ol)tain«'d  a  tew  mosses,  and  on  Christ- 
mas day  had  the  pleasure  of  linding  a  very  minute  tiijm- 
nostomum,  hitherto  undescribed : 

"  In  tlie  wiiitor  I  felt  the  inconvoiiience  of  thn  want  of  my 
tf^nt.tlie  only  shelter  I  bad  {'vt)\n  tbe  iiicleiiieiicy  of  the  wcntli- 
er  being  a  bat  built  of  the  bi-aiicbes  of  trees.  Soon  after 
reacbiiifr  our  wintering  ground  provisions  became  very  scarce, 
and  the  biiiiter  and  bis  tamily  went  (»tf  in  (piest  of  animal, 
taking  with  tbein  tla;  man  who  bad  charge  of  my  horses,  t 
bring  iin^  a  sapj)ly  as  soon  as  they  could  procure  it.  J  re- 
mnitii'd  (tlottr  for  the  rmf  vf  Ihc  ir'nttcr,  i.rrcjif  when  tin/  tiuiib 
ocrasioiia/li/  visiird  vie  iri/h  went  ;  find  T  found  the  thne  hnitj^ 
rei-i/  hrarif,  as  I  hod  no  hitnks,  and  nothlnfc  rntild  he  done  in 
the  waif  of  colleclbiff  speeintens  of  natural  histori/.  I  took, 
however,  a  walk  every  day  in  tbe  woods,  to  give  me  S(ane 
practice  in  the  use  of  saow-sboes.  Tin;  winter  was  very  se- 
vere, and  much  snow  fell  until  tbe  end  of  Ahircb,  when  it 
averaged  six  feet  in  depth  ;  in  conse([Uence  of  this  I  lost  ono 
of  my  horses,  and  tlu'  two  remaining  ones  became  exceed- 
ingly poor.  The  hunter  was  still  more  unfortunate,  ten  of 
Iiis  young  colts  having  died." — 1'.  310. 

In  the  heginnini;  of  Aj)ril,  18'2G,  a  fatimiing  march 
brought  him  to  the  Columbia  portage  iu  six  days,  and 
here  lie  received  letters  from  Dr.  Richardson,  accom- 
panied with  iiis  tent,  a  little  tea  and  sugar,  and  some  more 
paper  for  his  plants.     About  this  time  liis  hunter  sent 


»• 


I'll 


FRWKliiX  A:  Ull.'n.\UI)H<J\  rf  HIICUNU  JOLUXLV.  .'U  I 


i(l<>  ot"  tnnl- 
Witll  thrill 

in  I  loiisi'  is 
oit  tlic  Ist, 
II,  wliicli  is 
I  he  'JUth  (d" 
lUflht   tlifiii 

'Olll     tllCIICO 

IS  ;   Imf-  tlio 

V  that  soiiio 

tliiit  iniiii- 

tO   l)«1   OIK'.'' 

y  I'litinuiim, 
si!S  l)('caiim 
I  t'licl  ot"  Dc- 
w.  JJiiptisit', 
■r.  On  tlio 
(Ion  Clirist- 
iniito  Ciijtu- 

■  Willlt  ol'  JIIV 
>t' till'  WCfltll- 

Sooii  iif'tfi' 

■  very  sciint'. 

of  uniinixl: 
y  horses,  I 
it.     J  rr- 

c)i  1)11/  nil/ lb 

■  time  }ifiii<x 
I  hr  (lone  in 

ij.     I  took. 

e  me  soiiio 

ivas  very  se- 

oh,  wlion  it 

is  I  lost  ono 

lie  exceed- 
iiato,  ten  ot' 

ling  march 
tlay.s,  and 
on,  acconi- 
soine  more 
luuter  sent 


n 


liiiii  Word  tliiit  he  had  clian^ed  his  mind,  and  would  not; 
a('(M>m|iiiiiy  him  into  the  iiioimtaiiis.  His  pliins  wern 
thus  (h'nin^ed,  yt^t  he  had  no  alternative  hni  to  remain 
with  th<'  man,  who  had  charge  ol'  the  horses  used  on  thu 
('oliiml)ia  portaize,  "  iiimI  to  hotani/.e  in  that  m>ighl)or- 
liood."      lie  resolved,  iiowever,  to  pro<'eeil. 

"  ()m  tlio  IDlli  ot"  Aiiuust  I  set  r)iit  with  another  liiiiiter, 
upon  whom  1  Ijiid  pievuiled  to  coiidiict  lue  to  the  Siiiokiiin 
Hiver,  altlioilf.'li.  heiii;.'  ilisiippoiiited  in  ii  supply  iit'  aiiiiiiiiiu- 
tioii,  we  were  h.idly  provided.  We  traveled  lor  .several  (layn 
willioiit  meeting'  with  niiy  Jiiiiiiiiils,  and  I  shared  the  littlo 
dried  provision  which  1  had  with  the  liimter's  tiiiuilv.  Ori 
the  l.")tli  we  killed  a  iiioiiiitaiM  sheep,  which  was  tpiicklv  de- 
voured, there  not  heiiii,' the  smallest  appiehensioii  at  the  tiiiit) 
that  I'aiiiiiie  witiild  overtake  us.  Day  alter  (hiy,  however, 
passed  away  without  a  siuL'le  head  of  j.'aiue  ol  any  descriji- 
tioii  heiiiLT  s<'<'ii,  and  the  children  hei.'au  to  coniplaiu  loudly  ; 
but  the  hunter's  wili',a  youiii,'  hall-hred  we  laii,  hore  the  ali- 
stineiice  with  iiidilt'ereiice,  allliiiu;.'h  she  had  two  iiiliint  twiiiH 
a*  the  breast.  (Jii  the  'Jlsl  we  louiid  two  youn  ,  porciqiiiie.s, 
which  wer(?  shan-d  aiiioiij^  the  piirty  ;  and  two  or  three  days 
atterward  a  lew  tine  trout  were  caiiirht.  Wt;  arrived  in  tlio 
Suiokiiiii  River  on  tin;  f^th  ot'  September,  where  the  hunt- 
er killed  two  sheep,  and  a  period  was  put  to  lair  abstinence, 
tor  before  the  sheep  were  eaten  he  shot  .several  I  utl'aloes." — 
V.  :tll. 

Ho  next  proceeded  along  tlie  momitains,  and  liail 
reached  th<?  liead  waters  ot"  tlici  J'eacfi  Uiver,  when  a 
heavy  tall  ot"  .snow  stopped  hi.s  collecting  plants  tor  that 
season.  Desirous,  however,  ot"  crossing  the  mountains 
to  the  Columbia  Kiver,  he  determined  to  accompany  tho 
r'ohmihia  brigade;  on  its  arrival.  H:'  readied  the  port- 
age on  the  *.)th  ol"  October,  and  the  following  day  brougiit 
him  an  order  t'l'oin  (.'ai)tain  FranUlin  to  desctmd  in  tho 
spring  of  18'27,  to  rejoin  the  expe(htioii  on  its  way  to 
Vork  Factory.  He  therefore  went  with  the  brigade 
merely  to  the  west  end  of  the  portage,  and  returned  oa 
the  1st  of  November.  The  snow  was  too  deep  to  per- 
mit him  to  add  much  to  hin  collections  in  this  hasty  trip 
over  the  moimtains  ;  '•  but  it  was  impossihh;,"  he  says, 
*' to  avoid  remarking  thi;  great  superiority  of  climate  on 
the  western  side  of  that  lofty  range.  From  the  instant 
Ithe  descent  toward  the  Pacific  commences,  tliere  is  a 
i'lsible  improvement  in  the  growth  of  timber,  and  the  va- 


'      .1' 


i 


i  tl 


;  I 


I 


'I 


1> 


til2 


ARCTIC    VOYAGES. 


lirty  orforest-fi'oos  pivntly  inrroasos.  Tlio  few  ninsscc! 
tluit  1  if|(Vi!H'(l  in  \\\i'  excursion  were  so  thw,  tliat  [  cdiiM 
not  hill  (looply  regret  tluit  I  was  iiiml)lo  to  pass  a  srasoii 
or  two  ill  that  iiittu't'stiiiLi;  iviiioii." 

Another  dispalch  was  reci^ivrd  from  T)r.  liiohanlson, 
r('(|iiostiii<i  him  to  join  him  at  C'arltoii  House  in  A])ri|. 
whirh  ho  accordinnly  roachod  on  tho  oth.  "Wo  sullfi- 
o(l  miicli  from  snow-bliiuhiess  on  tlio  march,  tho  ihiys 
failed  from  want  of  food,  wo  had  to  cany  thti  bau^!l^M^ 
on  our  hacks,  and  luid  nothing  to  eat  for  seven  days." 
All  tliis  is  told  witli  tho  t;reatest  placidity.  Ho  set>ms 
only  to  regret  tliat  ho  had  done  so  littlt!.  >'ot  this  mod- 
est naturalist  says,  "  My  collections  on  tlio  mountains 
Hmoiinted  o  ahont  fitU'JMi  hundred  speci'vs  of  plants,  one 
hundred  aiid  tifty  birds,  fifty  quadrupj'ds,  iUkl  u  consid- 
erable numlier  of  insects." 

Captain  Kianklin  and  his  ])arty,  having  embarked  in 
the  pack(4  from  Now  Tork,  arrived  -M  Liverpool  on  tho 
2  Ith  of  September,  aftoi  an  absonsei  ol  two  yeai's.  seven 
months  and  a  half.  ('ommand(M'  iJack,  Lieutcmaiit  Ken- 
dall, and  Mr.  Drummond,  with  the  rest  of  tho  party,  ar- 
rived at  Portsmouth  on  the  10th  of  October.  Franklin 
and  Kiciiardsou  arrived  in  London  on  the  'JDtli  of  Sep- 
tember, when  tho  charts  and  surveys  were  laid  lioforo 
his  royal  higlmess  tho  lord-high-admiral. 

rnder  the  guidance  of  such  men  as  those  einplctyed 
on  tlie  last  two  expeditions,  it  is  not  n(>cessary  to  say  ii 
word  on  the  manner  in  which  tlu^y  have  been  conduct- 
ed. Information  has  been  obtained  in  every  depai'tment 
of  science,  and  (juite  sutficient  as  to  the  luain  point  on 
which  they  wer«^  undertaken,  namely,  iu  general  t(M'ms. 
"  to  amend  the  dtdective  geograpliy  of  the  northern 
coast  of  America."  TIm^  Arctic  vovaixes  having  com- 
iiienced.  and  as  it  was  not  unlikely  that  I^arry,  on  liis 
second  voyage,  would  make  an  attempt  to  proc(H^d  along 
that  coast,  it  was  decMued  advisable  that  an  examination 
sliould  be  undertaken  from  the  uioiith  of  the  Copper 
Mine  River  to  the  eastern  part  of  the  coast.  The  (pies- 
tion  lias  now  been  settled.  The  whole  coast-lino  is  oiio 
continued  series  of  rocky  islets,  with  channels  biMweiMi 
them  mostly  choked  with  ice.  the  sea  beyond  them  also 
covered  with  ice.  in  \\\('.  shape  of  lloes  and  homniocs  ; 


i  I 


I.' 


back's  journey  to  the  polar  sea.  313 

reofs  of  rocks  pai'allt'l  with  the  hoiich,  their  iiit(M'ni(Mh- 
ate  chaiini'ls  shallow,  and  in  many  plarrs  not  naviiiaMo 
oven  by  boats;  the  weatln'i*  fou;;y  and  stormy,  with  vio- 
lent yalos  ot"  wind,  so  that  Franklin  says,  attor  dra^i^ing 
his  boats  .'}74  miles  to  the  w«vstward  of  iNlackenzie's  Kiv- 
er,  "  in  all  tliat  space  not  a  harbor  exists  in  which  a  sliip 
could  find  shelter."  Dr.  Richardson  notices  but  one 
spot  in  the  course  of  HOO  miles — the  strait  of  the  Dol- 
pliii'  and  Union — in  which  there  is  water  for  larj^c?  ves- 
sels ;  but  lie  says,  "  the  navigation  of  it  would  i)e  dan- 
fjerous  to  ships,  from  the  many  sunktMi  rocks  which  wo 
oltserved  near  the  southern  shore." 

J)ease  and  Simpson  held  out  no  encouragement  for 
sliip  navi$i;ation  near  the  coast,  and  they  found  the  west- 
ern portion  of  it,  beyond  th«^  point  to  whici»  Franklin  ad- 
vanced, rocky,  sliallow,  and  muddy  on  and  near  the 
beach,  and  the  sea  fienerally  loaded  with  heavy  ice. 
(Jeoifrajjhy  and  natural  history  liavn  j^ained  very  larj^ely 
by  these  expeditions  ;  and  to  these  may  be  added  mete- 
orology in  all  its  aspects,  including  magn»'tism  and  elec- 
tricity. 


CHAPTER  XTL 
rOMMANDER  BACK. 

1833-34-35. 

Journal  of  a  Land  Ejpcditioih  to  (he.  Kastrrn  Part  of  the  po- 
lar tSea,  through  North  America  to  the  Month  of  Back's 
River. 

To  those  readers  who  luivo  mrule  tliemselves  familiar 
with  the  extraordinary  and  painfully-interesting  adven- 
tures of  Franklin  and  Richardson  within  the  Arctic  re- 
gions of  North  AnuM'ica,  and  along  thf*  sliores  of  the  Po- 
lar Sea,  the  name  of  Back,  the  associate  and  sharer  of 
nil  th«^ir  privations  and  sulferings,  must  also  be  iumiliar. 
In  voluntarily  undertaking  tlie  present  expedition,  Ik^ 
was  fully  awar(*  of  whiit  he  would  prol)al)ly,  nay,  most 
ciM-taiuiy  have  again  to  encounter — similar  harclslii[)s  iu 

J)  n 


/     ,i 


>M 


^(i; 


I 

■I 


ail 


ARCTIC    VOYAGES. 


-!  i 


I 


t  * 


^ 


j,,  j, 

1 

it 

1 

? 

his  pro}j;ross  tlirnujih  tlio  same  cmnitry.  Tlio  iiioh  « 
was  no  Ipss  honoraljlo  li»  liis  licarl  than  tlio  act  itsciU'  wan 
to  liis  uiiiliiicliiii^  coiira^o. 

[{riiiii  in  Italy,  a  rumor,  he  says,  reached  liim  from 
lOiiiilaiKJ  tliat  a|)|)reli»'ii.sioiis  were  «Mitertaiiie(i  for  tluj 
safely  of  the  two  Koss's,  the  uncle  and  nephew,  on  the 
lieariiiff  of  which  (with  a  true  chivalrous  spirit)  h«^  lias> 
ti'iied  iionie,  for  the  purpose  of  olferinji  his  services  to 
jioveniuient  for  the  conduct  of  an  ex|)editioii  in  seardi 
of  them;  and  his  olfer  was  accepted.  He  received  a 
letter  from  Lord  (JocUnich,  acquainting  him  that  the 
Lords  of  the  Admiralty  iiad  been  ;  'eased  to  transfer  liis 
sei'vices  to  the  Colonial  DepartnuMit,  to  conduct  the  ex- 
pedition in  (piestion,  and  h»^  was  directed  to  undertake  it, 
and  als(»  to  place  himself  at  tlni  disposition  of  the  govern- 
ors and  committee  of  tiie  Hudson's  Hay  Company,  who 
would  he  desired  to  furnish  him  with  the  retjuisito  i«^- 
soui'ces  and  su|)i)lies. 

A  nu'dical  pei'son  IxMng  required  to  take  car«i  of  the 
health  of  tlu^  ptirty,  Mr.  Richard  King,  in  the  tirst  in- 
stance, volunteen'd  his  services,  and  was  subsequently 
tMigaged,  at  a  salary,  as  surgeon  and  naturalist  to  the  ex- 
pt^dition.  Three  men  oidy  (two  of  whom  wore  a  car- 
j)enter  and  a  shipwright)  were  taken  from  England, 
^j^hese  five  persojis  left  on  the  17tii  of  February,  JH;5;5, 
for  Liver|)ool,  to  proceed  from  tlu'iuHi  in  the  packet  to 
New  York,  and  thence  to  Albaiiy  antl  MontitMil.  As 
the  rout»>  usually  followed  by  the  ('ompany's  servants 
to  tlu^  (ireat  ^lave  liake  is  the  same  as  that  of  Sii-  A. 
Mackenzie,  v)mmander  iiack  ol)s«'rves  that  a  detail  of 
his  progress  ,<  far  setMUs  to  he  uimecessary,  that  being 
the  point  from  which,  ho  adds,  tiie  discovery  properly 
b(»gins. 

Jlt^  had,  however,  a  long  journey  before  him  from  Nor- 
way House,  where  i)reparations  of  men,  and  boats,  and 
sledges  were  made  under  the  direction  of  CJovernor  Simp- 
son, to  Slave  Lakt>;  and  it  would  be  unjust  to  slur  over 
altogether  a  fatiguing  jouriu'y  through  one  of  the  most 
dangerous  and  detestable  countries  on  the  face  of  the 
earth — the  numerous  sulfei-ings  from  cold  and  famine, 
and  otluM*  hardships  of  various  descriptions,  which  he 
knew  from  former  experience  he  would  have  to  encoim- 


riio  inoti  ^^ 
ct  it.sell'  WHS 

\  liim  from 
itMi  tor  tlio 
WW,  oil  fho 
rit)  lie  liiis^ 

sorviccs  to 
II  ill  s.'aicli 

rtMM'ivod  u 
n  thill  tlio 
transH'r  his 
ucl  th(^  cx- 
ndcitiiko  it, 
tho  fiovcni- 
iipjiny,  who 
Hjuisito  ro- 

cani  of  tho 

lio  first  iii- 

ibsoquently 

t  to  tlio  ex- 

veio  a  car- 

1  Eii<ilaii(l. 

lai-y,  ih;]:5, 

*  packet  to 

ilriMil.     As 

"s  servants 

of  Sir  A, 

a  detail  of 

that  beiiii>; 

y  i)ioperiy 

from  Nor- 
boats,  and 
nor  Simp- 
)  slur  over 
tho  most 
lee  of  tlui 
1(1  famine, 
which  hrt 
toeiicouii- 


nACK'rf    JOURNEY    TO    TIIK    POLAR    SEA.       315 

ter,  and  all  of  which  he  bore  with  a  dejiree  of  cheorfn'- 
iiess  and  jj;oo(l  humor  peculiar  to  iiimself.  (iuide<'  by 
tJio  iiobb^  example  of  his  foriiuM*  colleajiiuvs,  Franklin  and 
Jvichardson,  he  never  shrunk  from  dilficulties,  never 
murmured,  never  desponded.  Like  a  true  IJritish  sea- 
man, the  ji;reater  the  danger,  tlu^  more  lirinly  he  stuck 
to  the  bark,  dcMeriiiiiHMl  to  hold  on,  sink  or  swim.  The 
praiseworthy  object  alone  which  he  luul  in  view  took 
full  possession  of  his  mind  ;  and  when  he  found  at  Nor- 
way House  that  no  less  than  twenty  men,  composed  of 
steersmen,  carpenters,  artillerymen,  tVc.,  had  been  al- 
ready collected  to  accompany  liim,  he  giv(;s  vent  to  this 
;,'enerous  burst  of  <'xultation  : 

"  This  was  a  happy  day  for  me  ;  and  as  tlm  caii<»<'  pnshotl 
otV  fioui  the  bank,  my  iieart  swelled  with  liopt'  and  joy. 
Now,  lor  the  first  lini«',  I  saw  myself  in  a  conditif)!?  to  verity 
the  kind  anticipations  of  my  fri(.'nds.  The  j)re I i miliary  ditli- 
culties  iiiid  l)«'en  overcoint*  ;  I  was  fairly  on  the  way  to  tho 
acconiplislinient  of  the  benevokMit  errand  on  wliicli  I  had 
been  coiniuissioned  ;  and  the  conteini)lation  of  an  object  so 
worfliy  of  all  exertion,  in  wlfah  I  lliou^bt  myself  at  leiiirth 
free  to  indulge,  raised  my  spirits  to  more  than  an  ordinary 
pitch  of  excitement." — 1'.  57,  58. 

Tho  only  disappointment  lie  felt,  but,  nt  tho  Bamo 
time,  one  that  amused  liim,  was  the  loss  of  two  Cana- 
dians, former  acquaintances,  who  presented  tliemselvtvs, 
jilmost  breathless  with  haste,  ns  candidates  for  the  ser- 
vic<\  were  accepted,  and  tlu>ir  aii;reenieiit.s  direct«Ml  to 
bo  made  out.  ^Pheir  wives,  liowever,  took  different  but 
equally  effectual  methods  to  imneiit  their  completion, 
and  to  keep  their  husbands  at  home  : 

"  The  one,  a  pood  strapping  dame,  cuffed  licr  husband's 
ears  willi  such  «lexttn-ity  ami  good  will,  that  be  was  fain  to 
cry  pcrcari,  and  seek  shelter  in  a  friendly  tent ;  the  other,  an 
interesting  girl  of  seventeen,  burst  into  tears,  and  with  pite- 
ous sobs  clung  to  the  husband  of  her  love,  as  if  slit^  wuiiKl 
liold  liim  prisoner  in  her  arms,  I  had,  therefore,  to  look  elso- 
wli<-re."— P.  55. 

lie  describes  the  odd  assemblage  of  articles  that  we ro 
liuddled  together  in  his  tent;  "nor  was  my  crew,"  he 
says,  "  less  motley  than  the  furniture.  It  consisted  of 
Hii  Englishman,  a  man  from  Stornoway,  two  Canadians, 
two  uietifs,  Hud  three  Iroquois  Indians.     IJabel  itself 


i 


■'cl 


/     ^ 


1:: 


81 G 


ARCTIC   VOYAGEg. 


CfMild  not  havo  prodncrd  n  worse;  confusion  of  iinlmnno- 
uious  sounds  tliiin  was  rlir  convcM'satiou  tlicy  kept  up." 
A  whole  dcot  of  ludiiii'  cjinocs  was  met  with,  wliosc* 
chief,  an  inteUiijent -looking  old  jnan,  nnnied  by  the  trad- 
ers "  Le  Caniarade  d(!  MandeviHe."  was  stated  to  hav(^ 
an  extensive  knowledge  of  th(;  countiy  to  tlie  northward 
of  the  (ireat  Slave;  Jjake.  He  was  hronjfjit  witli  liis 
Indians  to  JJack's  encanipment,  for  the  purpose;  of  <;iving 
him  some  intoiMiiatietn  of  the*  rive;r  he;  was  about  to  de- 
sceMul  to  the  sea-(M)ast.  AV^ith  all  be^tittinji;  ce'reMuony, 
j)reliminarie's  were^  ojjene'el  by  the  custoniary  pipe  ;  for, 
ns  Jiack  observes.  "  a  soe-ial  putf  is  to  an  Indian  what  a 
hetttle^  of  wine^  is  te)  an  Kniilishnian — apfvit  prcecord'ui — 
it  unlocks  the-  he'art  and  dissipate's  reserve'."  He  thus 
sketche's  the  inmates  of  one;  of  thei  chief's  cnnoes  : 

"  The  tonl  cnxoiihlf  of  this  '  j)c()j)lc,'  as  they  with  sonio 
vanity  style  tli('nis('lvt!.s,  was  wild  and  f:i'()tcs(|iie  in  the!  cx- 
trt'uie.  One  cauoo,  in  particular,  fixed  iny  attention;  it  was 
Binall  even  for  u  canoe  ;  and  how  ei^dit  men,  women,  and 
children  contrived  to  stow  away  tlirir  le<,'s  in  a  sj)ace'  nut 
more  than  lar^'e  enouuli  for  three  1  Itn-npi'Miis,  would  liuvo 
been  a  pu/./liujj;  |)robl('m  to  one  unac(|uaint('il  with  the  sup- 
j)leness  of  an  Indian's  UMbandaijed  liinl)s.  There,  however, 
tli(>y  were,  in  a  temperature  of  ()()^,  packed  heads  and  tails, 
like^  Yarmouth  lierrinirs — half  naked — their  hair  in  elf-locks. 
lo7i;r  and  matted — liltliy  beyond  description — and  all  seiuall- 
imr  toirethe'r.  'J'o  com])lete  the  picture\  tlieir  dops.  scarce 
one  decree  below  them,  formed  a  sort  of  body-guard  on  each 
siele  e)f  the  river;  and  as  llu?  canoe  glided  away  with  tli(> 
curi-ent,  all  tlie  animals  t«»gellier,  hinnan  and  canine,  set  up  a 
shrill  and  horrible  yell." — I'.  7ii, 

( )ne  of  the  half-breM'ds,  named  Do  Cliarloit,  is  describ- 
ed as  be'ing;  ii  de'xte're)us  cane)e-nmn  in  j)assinsj;  raj)ids  : 
]{ae'k"s  e-anoe,  thouuh  frail,  and  te)e)  we-ak  to  eue-onnter 
rude'  she)e'ks,  "  was  neve'rthe;less  tlireade'd  throuyli  the 
boiling;  rapids  and  sunken  I'oe-ks  with  fearful  elegance: 
the'  coe)i  dexte'rity  with  which  she  was  manage'd  was 
truly  admirable'." 

As  tlie'y  preKieeded.  the  chie'f,  "Le  Camarade,"  gave 
the'iti  soun;  infoi'mation  re'gai'efing  tiie'  rive'r,  but  it  was 
dillicult  te)  make  out  the-  be'arings  e)f  the'  plan  he;  sketch- 
ed ;  and  whe'u  Hack  attempte;d  te)  questie)ii  anel  assist 
l)im.  he'  tit  last  peevishly  exclaimed  "that  we  did  not 


BACKS   JOURNEY    TO   Till:    lOLAR    S1:A.       317 


f 'iiilmnno- 

v\\\\,  wlioso 
)y  tlio  fnul- 
fed  to  liavH 

northward 
It  Avith  liis 
se  of  ;i;iviiio 
bout  to  d('- 
ccrcniony, 

pipe;   fur, 

iaii  wliut  a 

reerordia — 

He  thus 

noes  : 

with  snino 
'  ill  tln!  ex- 
ion;  it  was 
^oincn,  and 
I  ispai'f  iii)t 
.vould  havo 
ith  tlio  suj)- 
',  howcvff, 
Is  ai:d  tails, 
in  elf-locks, 
I  all  s<|ual!- 
lops,  s(;aret> 
ii'd  on  eacli 
y  witli  the 
R',  set  up  a 

is  dfvscrib- 
),ii  ra])ids  : 
encounter 
rouyli  the 
eiofiance : 
tiiji'd  wu.« 

ide,"  gave 
ut  it  was 
le  nketch- 
luid  assist 
c  did  not 


placo  the  world  as  it  wms,  whorens  ht  kept  steadily  to 
the  risiuii  '"id  settinji  snn."  The  river,  however,  is 
stated  to  have  been  jiraphirally  portrayed  by  him,  as 
oriiiiiiating  in  rapids:  narrow,  shoal,  and  dunfrerous ; 
destitute  of  wood,  even  for  fuel:  full  of  ])erilous  cascades 
and  tails;  and  that,  after  a  course  luore  tortuous  than 
ihat  of  any  river  known  to  the  eldest  and  most  experi- 
enced of  th»Mr  tribe,  it  tumbled  o.er  its  northern  barrier 
in  a  foaininji;  cataract  into  the  soa 

The  party  was  now  approachini'  the  hifj;ldands,  from 
whicii  the  waters  take  an  opposite  course,  and  from 
whetice  the  labors  wliich  Back  says  had  hitherto  been 
so  cheerfully  underfjone  (bein^^  little  more  than  those  to 
which  roi/(ii4('urs  are  accustomed)  were  now  to  be  chaii^^ed 
into  extraordinary  efforts  and  patient  perseverance.  Cas- 
cades and  rapids  followed  each  other  in  quick  suc- 
cession. To  avoid  them,  it  was  necessary,  with  inlinito 
labor,  to  force  their  way  throujt^li  woods  of  stunted 
swamp-fir,  clamberino;  over  thcs  fallen  trees  through  riv- 
ulets juid  across  swamps,  gcttini;  on  as  well  as  the  bur- 
dens tliey  were  obliged  to  carry  would  permit;  and 
when  they  emerged,  all  was  barren  and  desolate.  On 
jiaining,  however,  the  summit  of  tlie  i)ass,  which  divides 
tlu^  waters,  and  is  of  great  height,  sucli  was  the  beauty 
of  tlie  varied  outfun^  on  the  northern  side,  "  that  we 
Avere  captivated  into  a  momentary  forgetfulness  of  our 


fatigue." 


But  fatigue  alone  was  not  the  main  cause  of 


their  suflfering: 

"The  laborious  duty  which  liad  heeti  thus  satisfactorily 
l)erf()nned  w'as  reiulered  (hinhly  severe  by  the  combined  !it- 
tack  ()t  myriads  of  sandtiies  and  musquetoes,  which  made 
our  faces  stream  with  blood.  There  is  certainly  no  form  of 
wrctchc.lness,  amoui,'  those  to  whicli  tli(>  checkered  life  of  a 
vnyafreur  is  exposed,  at  once  so  great  and  so  Immiliating  as 
the  tortiire  inflicted  by  these  pimy  l)lood-suckers.  To  avoid 
them  is  impossible  ;  and  as  for  defending  himself,  though  for 
a  time  he  may  go  on  cnisliing  them  by  thousands,  he  can  not 
long  maintain  the  nne(|ual  confhct ;  so 'that  at  last,  subdued  by 
pain  and  fatigue,  he  throws  himself  in  despair  with  his  face 
to  the  earth,  and,  half  suffocated  in  his  blanket,  groans  away 
a  few  hours  in  sleepless  rest." — V.  117. 

Again  he  says, 

"  After  a  haril  day's  work,  my  weary  crew  were  happy  to 

D  L>  J 


318 


AU(  TIC    VOYAtJKri. 


M 


•i\ 


f    I      ( 


I 


-H 


•(    » 


I;-"  i 


r 

)1    "i    " 


( 


t 


r 


<Mi('iini|).  nofwiflislninliiiir  tlu'  vitroroiis  mikI  iniiiitrrinittiiii:  tis- 
hniilts  nt'oiir  tiiitlitiil  loniiciitors,  tlic  saiidtlics  hikI  iiius(|iifto(<s. 
(JcMtiiiiily  tlicy  wcrt"  pests,  iiiid  s}iiii"[)ly  did  tlicy  roiivt-y  to  iis 
tJu'  moral  lesson  of  niiiii's  lielplessiiess  ;  since,  witli  iill  our 
boasted  strenfj;th  and  skill,  we  were  nnahle  to  repel  these  I'eu- 
ble  atoms  ot'tlie  creation." — 1'.  i:}!. 

Of  the  sandllios  neiir  the  lakes  uiid  in  tlio  valleys  he 
gives  u  most  upiniUiiijr  account.     lie  says, 

"  How  can  I  possibly  f^ive  an  idea  «tf  tlii-  torment  wo  en- 
dured from  the  sandtHes.'  As  we  dived  into  the  conhnedand 
Butfocatinj,'  chasms,  or  wadeil  throui^h  the  close  swamps,  they 
rose  in  clouds,  actually  darkening  the  air:  to  see  or  to  sj)eak 
was  (Mjually  dillicult,  for  they  rushed  at  «'ver^'  undefended 
])art,  and  fixed  their  ])oisonons  fangs  in  nti  instant.'  Our  faces 
streamed  with  blood,  as  if  leeches  had  been  applied,  and 
there  was  a.  burning  and  irritating  ]vdn,  followed  by  imme- 
diate inllannnalion,  and  producing  giddiness,  which  almost 
drove  us  mad.  \Viieivver  we  halted,  which  the  nature  of 
the  countiy  comjxdltMl  us  to  do  often,  the  men,  even  Indians, 
threw  themselves  on  their  ihc.rti,  and  moaned  with  ])ain  and 
agony  ;  for  the  time,  I  thought  the  thiy  plagues  worse  even 
than  nniscpietoes." — 1'.  17!). 

Evtui  tln'  Indians  have  never  been  able  to  contrive  any 
means  of  extirpating;  lhes(^  tormenting;  creatures,  or  of 
escaping;  from  their  woinuls.  Their  usual  mode  is  to 
throw  themselves  on  their  faces  to  the  ground,  and  to 
scream  or  moan  with  pain  and  agony,  liack  thought 
of  getting  rid  of  tliem  by  lilling  his  tent  with  smoke, 
which  brought  to  the  recollection  of  a  former  attendant 
that  the  old  r//ir/"(Kranklin)  woidd  not  destroy  a  single 
musquetoe.     On  which  Jiack  says, 

"  It  was  the  custom  of  Sir  John  Franklin  never  to  kill  a 
fly;  and,  though  teased  by  them  beyond  e.vpressicm,  especial- 
ly when  engaged  in  taking  observations,  he  would  quietly  de- 
sist fntm  his  work,  and  patiently  blow  the  half-gorged  intrud- 
ers from  his  hands:  'the  world  was  wide  enough  for  both.' 
This  was  jocosely  remarkeil  ui)on  at  the  lime  by  Akaitcho  and 
the  four  or  five  Indians  wh»»  accompanied  him  ;  but  the  im- 
pression, it  seems,  had  sunk  deep,  for  on  AhiufcUy's  see- 
ing me  fill  my  tent  with  smoke,  and  then  throw  ojien  the 
front  and  beat  the  sides  all  round  with  leafy  branches,  to 
drive  out  the  stupefunl  pests  before  I  went  to  rest,  he  could 
not  refrain  from  expres.sing  his  sui-junse  that  I  should  lie  so 
unlike  the  old  chief,  who  would  not  destroy  so  much  us  a  sin- 
gle musquetoe."—!'.  180. 


t 


ii 


iormittiiii:  jih- 
iims(|iiftucs. 
foiivt-y  to  lis 
with  jiU  our 

pel  till 'SI'  Tco 

0  valleys  he 

iiioiit  wo  en- 
confiiiodaiid 
iwamps,  tiiey 
L*  or  to  speak 

lUKlffendcJ 
t'  Onr  faces 
(ipjilied,  and 
ed  hy  iinine- 
khicli  almost 
lo  nature  (jf 
A'en  Indians, 
itli  ])ain  and 

worse  even 

jontrive  any 
ture.s,  or  of 
mode  is  to 
and,  and  to 
civ  thought 
rith  smoke, 
r  attendant 
roy  a  single 

ver  to  kill  a 
it)n,  especial- 
.1  quietly  de- 
irged  intrud- 
l\i  for  both.' 
^kaitcho  and 
but  tlio  ini- 
ufelly's  eee- 
iw  ojien  the 
branches,  to 
St,  he  could 
ilutuld  l)e  so 
uch  as  a  sin- 


BACKS    JUUKNEY    TO    THE    I'uL.VR    SEA.       319 

A  native  Indian,  who  had  left  his  party  at  th."  nionnt- 

anis,  and  lost  tin;   only  two  cliarfr,..s  of  powd.T  in  his 

possession,  an.l  was  therefore  helpless,  had  been  driven 

by  ne('essily  to  follow  the  travel.M's  a  long  jonrnev,  as 

the  only  chance  of  obtaining  the  m.-ans  of  sustaining  his 

lainily  till  he  eould  return  to  his  friends.     "  Had  there 

been  only  my  wife  with  n.e,"  he  said  in  a  faint  voice, 

;  I  would  not  have  troubl.Ml  the  chief,  for  we  conid  have 

ived  upon  berries  ;  but  when  I  looke.l  on  my  child,  and 

r   r„'^%/M""'''  '"y  heart  failed   me,  and  J  s.mght  for 

reliel.        1  here  needed  no  .,ther  appeal  to  (Commander 

iiack  ;  he  furnished  tin;  poor  man  with  a  liberal  supply 

ot  provisions  and  ammunition,  and  the  })oor  fellow  went 

away  the  happiest  of  his  tribe. 

Having  now  reached  the  eastern  shore  of  the  Great 
f>lave  Lake,  Mr.  M'Leod  was  diivcted   to   prepare  a 
building  lor  their  winter  i-eception,  after  JJack's  return 
Irom  the  discovery  of  the  som-ce  of  the  river  which  was 
to  convey  him  to  the  sea-coast.     He  set  out  for  this 
purpose   arid  alter  crossing  numerous  lakes,  rapids,  riv- 
ers, and  Inghttnl  cataracts,  mrived  at  a  lofty  hill,  and 
rom  It  saw- a  lake,  out  of  which  lie  was  told  one  of  the 
f)ranches  of  tlui  sought-for  river  issued.     He  here  saw 
only  a  te^y  geese,  one  gull,  and  many  terns,  and  mus- 
quetoes   like  the   foimh   plague  — innumerable.     "No 
other  iving  thing  was  seen  or  heard  ;  the  air  was  calm, 
the  lake  unrultled  ;   it  seemed  as  if  Natur.?  had  fallen 
into  a  trance,  tor  all  was  silent  and  motionless  as  death.'» 
ilie  si)Iendid  lake  was  named  Aylmer. 

The  river  which  ]Jack  had  now  to  descend  was  callcul 
by  the  natives  Thlew-ee-choh,  or  the  Fish  Kiver,  and 
since  has  very  properly  been  described  by  the  (leo- 
gi-aphical  Society,  and  in  the  charts,  by  tJie  name  of 
ISacks  HiV€r,he  having  been  the  first  European  who 
had  descended  it.  AVhen  he  was  fully  satisfied,  by  one 
ot  the  guides,  that  he  had  reached  one  of  its  feeders  he 
says,  "  yielding  to  that  pleasing  emotion  which  discov- 
erers, in  the  first  bound  of  their  transport,  may  be  par- 
doned for  indulging,  I  threw  myself  down  on  the  bank 
and  drank  a  hearty  draught  of  the  limpid  water."  The 
main  stream  was  speedily  approached,  and,  as  the 
month  oi  August  had  expired,  it  became  expedient,  nav. 


mm 


'      I»     ,      ■!   1 


.1 


'|5 
P  ' 'i 


I-  i  '  ! 


!  S 


4'l 


I 


t    t 


3'J() 


ARCTIC    VuVAGEri. 


f     * 


<r 


impri'iitivc  (Ijaviiif;  inadt^  tins  (lisroviMy),  to  return  to 
Fort  Kcliiinco  on  Slavo  fjuko,  tlicro  to  fako  u|)  liis 
winter  (jUJirtri's ;  and  licrc!  he  I'ound  t\w  truinework 
ei'ected  of  a  convenient  house,  \vhich.  I)y  the  assistaiKM^ 
ot'  ininierous  worknu-u  which  Mr.  31'Leod  had  asscun- 
hled,  was  speedily  completed. 

"  Oar  hall  was  in  a  manner  lillcd  with  invalids  and  other 
stnpidly-dcjrctrd  hcin^'s,  who,  sealed  round  the  lire,  occn- 
])ird  tlicinsrlves  in  roasliji^'  and  ch'vonrin^'  small  hits  ot' 
their  reindeer  pu'tnj'nts.  which,  even  when  entire,  alVord- 
ed  them  a  very  insntHciiMit  ])rotection  atrainst  a  tempera- 
tnre  of  ]()i!"^  fn/oir  f/ir  frrrzintr  point  (70^  })elow  zero). 
'I'he  liilher  torpid  and  despairiiii:  ;  the  mother  with  a  hollow 
and  sejtulchral  wail,  vainly  eiideavorinir  to  soothe  the  infant 
which,  with  nnceasintr  moan,  cIiuil,'  to  her  shriveled  and  ex- 
hausted hreast,  the  passive  child  ^'azing  vacantly  around  : 
such  was  one  of  the  many  i-'royps  that  siuTounded  us." — I'.-JI>}. 

Those  scenes  of  misery  amon^  the  ))oor  nutives,  lor 
want  of  food  and  fuel,  were  more  distressing  to  the 
feeling  heart  of  iiack  than  any  privation  that  could  hap- 
l)eu  to  iiimself.  The  old,  the  sick,  and  tlie  miserahle 
had  heard  of  hiui,  ai  d  were  not  long  in  finding  their 
way  to  the  house  of  the  white  man,  to  ohtain  that  relief 
from  starvation  wliich,  iu  seasons  of  distress,  it  would 
he  hopeless  to  seek  for  among  their  own  countrymen. 

'J^he  suflerings  of  the  poor  Indians  at  this  period  are 
not  to  he  descrihed.  "  Famine,  with  her  gant  and 
l)ony  arm,"  says  Back,  "  pursued  them  at  every  turn, 
witliered  their  energies,  and  strewed  them  hfeless  on 
the  cold  hosom  of  the  snow."  Nine  had  fallen  victims, 
and  oth(!rs  were  on  the  eve  of  perishing,  when  tlie  old 
chief  Akaitch(»  came  to  their  rehef. 

To  add  to  the  distress  of  Back,  he  re^ceived  informa- 
tion that  his  friend  Augustus,  the  former  alfectionate 
Es(iuinraux  interpreter,  hearing  of  his  heing  again  in  the 
country,  set  out  from  Hudson's  Bay  in  company  with  a 
Caiiadijui  and  an  Iroquois  ;  they  lost  their  waj%  were 
separated,  and  poor  Augustus  fell  a  sacrifice  to  famine. 
His  remains  were  fountl  on  the  haiTens  not  far  from  the 
Riviere  a  Jean.  It  ajjpeared  that  the  gallant  little  fel- 
low was  retracing  his  steps  to  the  estahlishment.  when, 
eitlier  exhausted  by  sulfering  and  privation,  or  caught 
in  the  midst  of  an  open  travei'se  in  one  of  tlioso  terrible 


1     V 


*'l 


back's    journey    to   the    I'OLAR    SEA.      321 


return  to 
e  up  Ills 
ruiiH'Work 
ns.sistiuico 
acl  ass(Mii- 

niid  otluT 
lire,  occii- 
all  hits  of 
ire,  atViinl- 
ii  tt!iiijH*rii- 
l(i\v  zcrr)). 
ill  ii  hollow 
>  tho  iiifjiiit 
\cd  and  ex- 
ly  around  : 
i."— I'.^ia. 

mtivcs,  for 
m^  to  tho 
could  hiip- 

iiiiseriihlo 
iding  their 
tliat  relief 
i,  it  would 
itlTliieii. 
period  are 

gaut  and 
very  turn, 
lifeless  on 
in  victims, 
en  the  old 

d  informa- 
lectionate 
ain  in  the 
ny  with  a 
vay,  were 
to  famine. 
r  from  the 
little  fei- 
nt, when, 
or  caught 
so  terrible 


snow-storms,  wliicli  may  ho  almost  said  to  hlow  through 
the  frame,  he  had  sunk  to  rise  no  more.  "  Such,"  siiys 
]5ack,  "was  tho  miserable  end  of  poor  Augustus!  a 
faithful,  disinterested,  kind-hearted  creature,  wlio  had 
won  the  regard,  not  of  myself  only,  but,  I  may  add,  of 
kSir  J.  Franklin  and  Dr.  Richardson  also,  by  qualities 
which,  wherever  found,  in  the  lowest  as  in  the  highest 
forms  of  social  life,  are  tho  ornament  and  charm  of  hu- 
manity"— qualities,  it  must  bo  said,  that  wen?  found  in 
full  vigor  in  the  kind-hearted  iiack.  "Often,"  said  he, 
on  another  occasion,  "  did  I  share  my  own  plate  with 
the  children,  whose  hel[)less  state  and  piteous  cries 
were  peculiarly  distressing.  Compassion  or  the  full- 
grown  may  or  may  not  be  felt,  but  that  iieart  must  bo 
cased  in  steel  which  is  insensible  to  the  cry  of  a  child 
for  food." 

His  own  party  had  a  full  share  of  the  general  distress ; 
their  rations  were  deplorably  reduced ;  but  this,  how- 
ever, produced  no  complaining,  no  sullen  or  sulky  looks 
in  the  brave  fellows  he  had  engaged  in  England  and  in 
Canada.  They  had  none  of  those  means  so  skillfidly 
employed  by  Parry  on  board  ship  to  keep  up  the  spirits 
of  the  men  ;  but  no  objection  was  raised  to  the  forma- 
tion of  an  evening  school ;  on  the  contrary,  it  was  con- 
sidered as  an  anmsement,  that  tended  to  the  mainte- 
nance of  their  cheerful  and  general  good  spirits. 

About  the  middle  of  April  active  preparations  were 
begun  for  their  intended  journey  to  the  sea-coast ;  and 
while  so  employed,  a  me'jenger  on  the  25th  of  that 
\nonth  brought  a  packet  for  ]?ack,  which  contained  the 
lUiexpected  and  welcome  intelligence  of  the  safety  of 
Ross  and  his  party.  The  hurry  and  excitement  of  his 
feelings  on  the  occasion  he  thus  describes  : 

"  111  the  fullness  of  our  hearts  wc  assembled  together,  and 
"lunibly  offered  up  our  thanks  to  that  merciful  I'rovidenco 
which,  in  the  beautiful  languafre  of  Scripture,  hath  said.  '  Mine 
awn  will  I  l)ring  again,  as  I  did  sometime  from  the  deeps  of 
the  sea.'  The  thought  of  so  womlerful  a  preservation  over- 
nowt^red  for  a  time  the  common  occurrences  of  life.  We  had 
just  sat  down  to  In-eakfast;  but  our  aj-petlto  was  gone,  and 
llie  day  was  passed  in  a  feverish  state  of  excitement.  Seldom, 
indeed,  did  my  friend  Mr.  King  or  I  indulge  in  a  libation, 
but  ou  tliis  joyful  occasion  economy  was  forgotten ;  a  treat 
21 


mm 


,1' 


322 


AUCTIC    VOYAOEH. 


Ml' 


r.. 


) 


\ 


I 


I    ■        * 


I 


I 


wjiH  f,'ivcii  to  tlip  men,  and  for  oiirsflvt's  tho  wkihI  synipiitiiiiH 
Wfic  (luickc'iieil  by  a  gfiicrous  l)o\vl  (»t  puncli." — 1'.  'Jl.>. 

On  tljo  7th  of  Jmie,  Jiuck,  accoinpiiuiod  by  Mr.  Kinj,', 
Jeft  Fort  Reliaiici!,  eucli  delighted,  us  may  well  ho  imu- 
j!;inod,  in  escapiiif;  from  sconos  of  suHoring  and  death, 
froni  heart-rending  caro  and  vexatious  disappoinlmcnt. 
"  Jieforo  me,"  ho  says,  "  were  novelty  and  enterpiiso  ; 
hope,  curiosity,  and  tlie  love  of  adventure  were  my  coni- 
])anions  ;  and  oven  the  prosp»;ct  of  dilFiculties  and  dan- 
gers to  he  encountered,  with  the  responsibility  insepara- 
ble from  command,  instead  of  damping,  rather  hui^dit- 
ened  tho  enjoyment  of  the  moment."  On  the  L'Btii  of 
June  the  boat  wjis  earned  over  the  last  portage  which 
divides  the  northern  streams  from  the  southern  ones, 
into  the  latter  of  which  she  was  to  bo  lunched,  it  being 
the  river  which  ho  had  discovt^red,  the  ThLcw-ce-choli, 
or,  as  appropriately  now  named,  Jiack's  River,  and  which 
Was  to  convey  them  into  the  Polar  Sea. 

A  singular  remark  is  hero  made  regarding  the  tem- 
perature. About  tho  end  of  May,  just  before  they  sot 
out,  the  weather  was  sultry,  the  temperature  in  the  sun 
being  10(i^  ;  an  extraordinaiy  contrast,  ho  observes,  to 
tliat  of  tho  17th  of  January,  when  it  was  70°  below 
zero !  extremes  so  much  in  excess  from  any  recorded, 
that  the  correctness  of  the  instrument  may  be  doubted. 
Tlusy  now  experienced  the  weather  to  be  cold,  thick, 
and  foggy.  On  clearing  up,  they  were  overjoyed  to  dis- 
cover the  branching  antlers  of  twenty  reindeer  on  tho 
sununit  of  the  adjacent  hills.  To  see  and  pursue  was 
tho  work  of  a  moment. 

"  It  was  a  beautiful  and  interesting  Right,  for  the  sun  shono 
out,  and,  lighting  up  some  parts,  cast  others  into  deeper  ehade : 
the  white  ice  rt-flectod  millions  of  dazzling  rays ;  the  rti[)id 
leaped  and  chafed  in  little  ripples,  which  melted  away  into 
the  uurulflod  surface  of  tho  slumbering  lake ;  abnipt  ancl  crag- 
gy rocks  frowned  on  the  right;  tuul  ou  the  left,  the  brown 
landscape  receded  until  it  was  lost  in  the  distant  blue  mounl- 
ahis.  The  foreground  was  filled  iip  with  the  ochre-colored 
lodges  of  the  Indians,  contrasting  with  our  own  pale  tents ; 
and  to  tho  whole  scene  animation  was  given  by  the  graceful 
motions  of  the  unstartled  deer,  and  the  treacherous  crawling 
of  the  wary  hunters." — P.  307. 

Mr.  M'Leod  had  assembled  some  hunters,  to  return 


I  M 


-M    V 


\ 


«ynip(itliic8 
-1\  'J  i:>. 

Mr.  Kiiifi, 
ell  he  iinii- 
iiiul  (Ictitli, 
i|)()inlm(Mit. 
jntcrpiiso  ; 
•e  my  com- 
»s  and  (imi- 
y  insej)iirii- 
ler  hei^lil- 
ho  L>8tli  (.f 
tiige  which 
hern  ones, 
ad,  it  beiiii; 
eiv-ee-cli(ili, 
,  and  which 

g  the  tem- 
vo  tliey  set 
I  in  the  sun 
)bserves,  to 
70<^  below 
Y  recorded, 
)e  doubted, 
cold,  thick, 
)yed  to  dis- 
leer  on  the 
jursue  was 

le  sun  shnno 
jeper  ehado : 
r,  the  rapid 
d  away  into 
iptand  craj^- 
t,  the  browu 
blue  mounl- 
chre-colorc'd 
1  pale  tents ; 
the  graceful 
JU3  crawling 

s,  to  return 


BACKS   JOURNEY    TO    THE    I'OLAU    HEA. 


323 


to  tlie  fort  by  tlio  best  way  to  meet  witli  musk-oxen,  tlm 
scarcity  of  animals  increasing  as  Hack  proceeded  to  the 
north.  Amon^  tlu^  ^roupof  Indians  Ih)  met  with  an  old 
acfjuaintance,  formed  when  wifli  Franklin,  who  went  by 
the  name  of  (ireen  Stockings,  whoso  mother  was  afraid 
that  if  the  portrait  he  drew  of  her  went  to  Kngland,  tho 
kin^r  would  send  for  the  original. 

"Though  stirroundcd  by  a  I'anuly,  wifli  one  nrcldn  in  Iut 
cloak  cliugiiig  to  her  back,  and  siuidry  othrr  niatt'nial  accoin- 
j)aniui<'ntH,  1  inujiediatrly  recogui/.t'd  her,  and  called  lirr  by 
her  name;  at  which  she  laughed,  and  said  'she  was  an  old 
wouian  now;'  begging,  at  the  same  time,  that  she  mi^'ht  bo 
relieved  by  the  '  medicine  man,  t!>r  she  was  very  much  out  of 
health.'  Ilowever,  notw  ithstandiuir  all  this,  she  was  still  the 
beauty  of  the  tribe;  and  witli  that  consciousness  which  ln>- 
longs  to  all  belles,  savage  or  polite,  seemed  by  no  means  dis- 
I)lcased  when  I  sketched  her  portrait." — 1'.  'M7. 

From  this  time  till  their  ajiproach  to  the  sea,  a  con- 
stant succession  of  falls,  and  ra])ids,  and  cataracts  more  or 
Ic^ss  obstructed  their  progress,  and,  as  Hack  says,  "  nuido 
liim  hold  his  breath,  expecting  to  see  the  boat  dashed  to 
shivers  against  some  protruding  rocks  amid  tlie  foam  and 
fury  at  the  foot  of  a  rajud."  In  passing  down  one  of 
th(>se,  wluM'e  the  river  was  full  of  large  rocks  tuid  bowl- 
<lers,  tlie  boat  was  obliged  to  bo  lightened  ;  and  Hack  says, 
*'  I  stood  on  a  high  rock,  with  an  anxious  heart,  to  see 
her  run  it.  Away  they  went  with  tlie  speed  of  an  ar- 
row, and  in  a  moment  the  foam  and  rocks  hid  them  from 
my  view.  I  heard  what  sounded  in  my  oar  like  a  wild 
shriek ;  I  followed  with  an  agitation  which  nuiy  be  con- 
ceived, and,  to  my  inexpressible  joy,  found  that  the  shiit'k 
was  the  triumpliant  whoop  of  the  crew,  who  had  liuided 
safely  in  a  small  bay  b».'low."  In  short,  strong  and  heavy 
rapids,  with  falls  and  whirlpools,  kept  the  men,  for  eighty 
or  ninety  miles,  in  a  constant  state  of  exertion  and  anx- 
iety. 

He  gives  an  instance  on  one  occasion  of  the  consum- 
mate skill  of  De  Charloit,  who 

"  ran  our  rickety  and  shattered  canoe  down  four  successive 
ra])i(ls,  which,  inuler  less  able  management,  would  have 
wlurled  it,  and  every  body  in  it,  to  certain  destniction.  Noth- 
ing could  exceed  the  self-possession  and  nicety  of  judgment 
with  which  ho  guided  the  frail  thing  along  the  nai-row  Uuo 


*v 


:v*  I 


All!   rif    Vov  \«iKrt. 


). 


I      , 


I 


I 


i  t 


1»cl\\  I -I  Ml  ill"'  lip'li  \\  ;t\  i"J  nf  llii>  (mil -Ml  it  in  I  I  In"  i  flni  inii"  icMv 
A    lout    III    I'lllii'i    il  1 1  ■'■  liDii    WKiilil    liiixi*  lii'iMl   Intnl.    Init    wiili 
llii>  iiiiwt   |ii  ilfii  I'iMi',  mill.    I   iii.'i\    mill,  I'li'K'int    miil   >'i;iii'liil 
III  I  i>>ii.  Iii'<  Ui'i'ii  i'>  i"«  Il  VI  il  ii|<iiii  lli)<  I  nil.  III'  K<  |>t  I II 'I    1 1  III'  til 
Ini   I  iHii  SI'  llniiii::ii  nil  il^inpiil   \\  iiiiliiif;M." — I'.    Iii.i. 

■\l    liMifMh.  liM\v««\i«i .  iIh'V   H'lnlicil    )||(>    \i\h\    Mini    imunI 
(hi  iiinlnliii'  kI  in|niiN  ;    tiini  liiMi<  tlii<\    It'll  iti  with  ii  |inily 
•  i|    tl\iisi>    t>  I, I, hi  I, 'lis  |'',M|iiiniiiii\    iijMiiii'^t    ulmm    llii«   In 
iliMM  I  liiiM    liMil  NO   iirt;iMitly  riintitUH<il  liini.       Mi<  Iniiiliil. 
itnii    nittvvilltsdmiliiii',   iIumi    liriiitilMlii>i|  sjirnf^,  iiiiii  v»'lls, 
iniil  \vilil   i^i'^lii  iilnlinn'^.  unlKi'il  iip  In   liitMii,  tiilliiir,   oiii 
t,  ipiiii      )»t'ni'i>.       In  .111  111  .Iniit   iIhmi  s|n'nrM  wi'it"  lliiii;^  nn 
the   >;itiniiil;   iiiiil.  |>Imi  111!^    llicii    liiiiiih   mi   llifii    Int'iisH. 
ihiM    iilsit  <iillt<i)  iMil  tiipiiii.       Ili>  iniiiic  tliiMii  iiinlt'i  siniiil 
tlii>\  \Vi>rt>  l\iihliu>)h>s       l'',iii'i)|)i'iiii>4,  mill  lint  linliiiiis;  hihI 
ln>    sn\M.  "US   tli<>\    iliil    nut.  IiIm>    llifir   lUM^Iilnf  s   to   tlio 
NiMtli.  i;o  till  oui;li  tlii>  fon'iiioiiN  ty\'  nihhi>i>:  (lu't   pnlliii;') 
fhwi  .<>  I)\    \vii\  til  s:iliilnt  ion,  I  iiilo|i|t>il  tlii<  .loin    l>nll  In.li 
»i>n  ol"  "ihaUiii^  I'm  li  ol   llii'iii  lii'iiitiU   liv  tlio  liiiini."       \ 
low   j>n'son|><   wore   i;iM>n    to   tlioiii;    iiinl  Hn   K    wont    to 
llioir  toiil-^,  inlioiiiiii'il  linii'«t'li  to  llioir  wnnii'ii  iimi  »  liil 
tlii'ii.  mill   liml  i'\oi\    rt'.ison   to  Ih'Iu'M'  lie  liml   oltlinnoil 
llioir  I'onliiloiifo.       I'ln'ir  iuihiImmn,  Iio  lliniUs,  w  t'ro  iillo 
Cotlior  iilioni  llmtx    liv  o. 

riu'so  i;ot>il  nut  in  I'll  niiil  iVionillv  |>oo|)Io  woio  ol'  tlll^ 
^nosl  I'ssontinl  >iorvico  to("!i|>lMin  l»mK;  lor  inronnittion 
Ix'ihl:  broiiLlliI  lo  linn  lioni  llio  loiiilinj',  niiin  ol  tlio  luiiil 
ih.Ml,  Ml  ponloiis  w  !is  the  liitiiiiuM  now  to  lu'  jiassoil,  no 
bii.it  coniil  tlt'scoiitl  it,  mill  llmt  tlio  t'low  won*  nllorl\ 
nni>(|n!il  tii  the  I;i"«K  ol  tonxoviii:;  it  omt  tlio  loni;  jitnl 
slcop  povlHii«>  -  "  TiiUiin:  iiil\initiii;o.'"  lie  sii\s.  "  ol"  llio 
Cooil  Inmiororonr  now  !H(pi:iint;in('o><.  I  foipiostod  tln'iii 
to  cwo  lis  i)  lii'lpiiiL:  limul.  Tlio  ictpii"-!  wns  fln'orrnllv 
ronipiioii  Willi,  iiiiil.  Willi  tluMi'  .•isviisliincc,  wo  siifcooilod 
111  cMirv  ill;;  tlio  lioMl  liolow  the  Inll,  so  tli;it.  in  roiility.  I 
»  us  iiiii«'!)I(Ml  lo  tlioni  tor  coltiiic  lo  llio  sou  til  all." 

lluMiii;  ]>;ivtoil  iViMii  tlit>  l'.s(]iiiniiin\  on  tlio  'JHtli  ol" 
.lnl\.  on  llu'  lollow  nii;  il.iN  tliov  t:ol  si«;lii  ol"  n  lolly  lioml- 
l.iiul  at  a  ^i(»at  ilistMiicti  to  tin'  north,  iipparoiitly  on  tlio 
«\asi(>ni  siili'  ol  tin*  iM\or.  wliu-li  iliov  conit'i'lnroil  to  ho 
«M\»»  siilo  ivt  tho  opi'iiii;':  into  tho  soa.  and  it  provod  to  ho 
60.     Ti)  this  proiuoiUoiy  l>a«-k  j^avo  ihe  uaiuo  ot'  \'ii't(>- 


r.'i 


IIACKH     Inruivrv     TO    'IMir,    I'or.AK     Ml    A, 


.•{•»r» 


IIHI"   1(1. Iv 

;  liiit  Willi 
lltl  f'i;i<)'liil 
Ikm    Ii  iii>  1.) 


iiml    innMi 
illi  II  |iiirly 

Ml     lll)>    III 
|(>    lllllilril, 
lllul     >  fll'l, 

I  iilliiir,   oiil 

<«   (llllli;  nil 

II  InriisN, 

llllIlM  stilllil 

ilitiii'4 :  mill 
ii"><   !••   tlio 

it    plllllll!'.) 

Hull  liisli 
iiiinl."       \ 

Iv     WiMll     III 

II  mill  dill 
il   uhtmiK'il 

Wt'lr  llllit 

(M(>    til    llio 
lilnnMllllDIi 

III  lll«»    llUil) 
ItliSSCtl,    llll 

MO  iiII<mI\ 
!•  Iniii:  •'••I'l 
s.  "  ol"  llll> 
I'slcil  lliriii 
chi'tMliillv 
siir(»M'il(>il 
I  rnility.  I 
I  all." 
it«  'JSth  til" 
lol'ly  linui- 
illv  oil   lilt' 

lUltMi    tt»    III' 

niviMJ  111  lii> 
<  ol"  \"  iito 


I  III,  III  litiiinr  1)1  |Im<  |iiiiiri"4M  r<i\iil;    iiidI  dm  tlir  iiiiniil  ol 

lllt<   |llll'IV  III    lIlH   |li>Mlt,    IiIhK   IIiIH   MIIMIM   II|)  11   I'l'Mfllll  V|l>\V 
<>l     iJlht     IMIpl'llMMm     IIVIM'     III     III|IIi|m,     l'l|MrM(lfM,     lllnl     llllll 
llirl'i  : 

"  'I'lli'l,  IIk'II,  III.'IV  I"'  •itllMiili'liil  111  l||i<  MliHllll  III  till'  'I'llll'W- 
<•■  I'lliill,     VnIiIiIi,     llltlT     M     VtiiliMll     llllll     llll  lilnil-i    iiiUI'ii'    1 1|     I'lsn 

IiiiiiiIk'iI   llllll    lliiilv    ;'<'i>"i  ii|i|iit  III    iMili-J,   iiiiiiiiii"    lliiiiii.i'li    llll 

null   lililiril    riilMltlV,    Ulllliilll    tl    Hlll."li>    tlCi'    Mil     llll'    wliull'    llllll 

III  iIm  IiiiiiKm,  i'X  |iiiiiiIiii!;  iiilii  line  liHi'x  liilu'-i  Willi  <  li'ni  liuii- 
mix,  iiiiwl  cMiliiii  iii>4'4iii;^  III  till'  Mil  V  I'Miliii ,  llllll  liiiiKi'M  mill 
I.iIIm,  t  ,'l><rlli|i"4,  ilMil  mi|iiiIm  III  ||m<  IIIIIIiIii'I  III  III!  I^•^■^  lliiiii  I'l.-'lily- 
lllll'r  ill  till*  wllii|)<,  |inlM>i  ilM  VMlli'M  ilili)  ill''  I'lilill  Si  II  III  lilll- 
IihIi'  (I;      11     III)      N.,  llllll  |iiii;;iliiil<<  !>  I      llll    I)      W    ;   lli;il    i-^  In 

i:;lV,     itillllll     lllil  ly    Hl<\  I'M      Mlill'-*     IMMI'I'    HIMllll      lIlltM     IIh'     MIIIIIIIi    III 

till'  <'ii|(|iii-  Mini'  Uivrr,  iiml  iiiiu'ti'i'ii  miiIi'm  mmmi'  wimiIIi  iIium 
llllll  III  UiuK'k  Wivit,  lit  llll'  luwiT  I'xtrciiiil V  ol  I •iilliiM'^rM  Ill- 
Ill  "—I'.  :i!MI. 

"  SiiMitioiil  I'lM*  lln<  liny  h  IIh'  «'vil  llu'rotiC;"  ImiI.  uilli 

tllt>   ll|)|llllliM!^    I'l'llt'l'lllll)  III'  hllVIMI'    III    I'kIMI'II    II|I,  IIIhI    Ml    li|l- 

|iiisilM»M  III,  till  li'M'^  tliiiM  I'l^lily  lliri'i'  IiiIIm,  ciisriiili'M,  immI 
riipiils,  iii'tliMiil  III"  •lii'^liiiin  (ItiwM  llii'iii  iH  liitliiMtii,  it  n*- 
t|iiirt'il  nil  iMiMltMiilt*   sliiin*  «•!  rirniiM'WM  iinil  I'l^^iiliitiiiM  In 

pIMUfVlTI'  ill  lllt»  lllltMllpl  III  IIMM'W  llll'  millM"  Iftlllc,  III  Ki> 
III  I  Ml  III' I  <l  I  II  pi 'I'll  11 1  II  >-!   till'   llllllltll  III     A  ll^llsl.  A    I  ill  ill    pi  II  lit 

llll  till'  I'lisli'iii  siili<  III'  lilt'  I'sliiiiiy,  wliirli  Im'  ciiIIi'iI  (  'iipn 
lliiv.  Ill'  iiiM'^iili'n'fl  III  lie  llll'  iiiii'tlii'i'ii  I'xIii'iiM',  liril, 
|)i'iisi«  nnti  Siiiip'^iiM  NMlisi'ipii'iillv  ilisi'iivi'i't'd  ii  rtirisiili'i'- 
iililt'  li'ii^lli  iirniiiMl  lit'yiiiiil  it.  Kill' It'll  iliiyH  tlit' wi'iilli- 
I'l  I'liiitiiiiii'tl  fliilly,  wi't.mitj  l"ti^i;y,  llllll  tlit'  i"<liiiiry  wiis 
■^11  liliit'Ki'il  up  with  iff  (n  III  pi'i'vi'iil  iiiiv  iitirtlii'i'ii  [U'lit;- 
it'ss  lii'iii!:;  Miiult'.  Till'  sliiii't'ss  111"  lliis  (li'siiliilt'  ?'i';^i(iii  prii- 
iliMi'il  niitliiiii;  liiit  i'i»iiitli'i«r-iiiMSH  iiiid  ii  sprcii's  of  I'itii, 
liiitli  sii  NiiiiUt'tl  with  wt't  llllll  llit'V  wniilil  iMit  liiM'ii,  niiij 
llii'i't'l'dri'  llll'  piirly  Iiml  no  iiii'iinH  of"  cooUinii  (iiiy  lliiiii:, 
Mill  I'vi'ii  ol"  lioiliiii;  )i  lilllo  wiilcr  lor  tt-ii.  l''or  ii  vvliolo 
wi«t\U  tlii'V  Iiml  lull  olio  liol  nit'iil. 

In  this  clit'ci'lt'ss  iinil  iiiisri'iililo  coiiilitjon,  siirrouridofl 
on  ovt'i'V  siilo  liy  prosprtts  ol"  ico,  snow,  iind  t'ompli'lo 
ilfsolntion.  willioiil  lirt^  or  tlio  iiifiiiis  ol"  niiikiii^  it  with- 
out liny  Uiiid  of  warm  looil,  solid  or  lii|uid--wilh  hoiivy 
showors  of  rain  lollowt'd  liy  thit-k  snow,  no  wondiM'  that, 
( 't»ininaiiilt'r  Hack  should  say,  "  Il  <'an  not  he  a  inattor  of 
asionishiiHMit,  Kiitl  imich  loss  of  lilanic,  that  oven  tho  host 


■i  Vi 


I 


r  .    » 


33G 


ARCTIC   VOYAGES. 


I       1 


(I, 


it, 


•    f 


mon,  benumbed  in  their  limbs,  and  dispirited  by  tlie 
dreaiy  and  tuipromising  prospect  before  them,  broke  out 
for  a  moment  into  low  murmurings  that  theirs  was  a 
hard  and  painful  duty." 

No  one  can  be  surnrised  that,  in  such  a  state  of  pri- 
vation and  suffering,  Back  was  prevented  froni  canying 
into  ellect,  or  even  undertaking,  what  had  been  his  inten- 
tion, viz.,  that  of  j)roceeding  coastwise  to  Point  Turn- 
again,  to  complete  the  unfinished  part  left  by  Franklin. 
He  sent,  however,  a  small  party  to  the  westward  to  trace 
the  coast,  which  was  all  that  could  be  done ;  but  they 
were  only  able  to  follow  the  shore  about  fifteen  miles 
with  every  exertion  they  could  use  and  the  most  severe 
labor,  sinking  into  snow  and  swampy  gi'ound  midleg  at 
every  step.  The  surface  was  level,  and  void  of  vegc^ta- 
tion.  They  found,  however,  several  pieces  of  drift- 
wood, one  of  which  was  nine  feet  long  and  nine  inches 
in  diameter,  which  the  men  jocularly  called  "a  piece  of 
the  North  Pole."  Back  was  persuaded  that  the  fact  of 
the  drift-wood  at  this  ])oint  of  North  America  establishes 
the  continuity  of  the  coast  from  the  mouth  of  the  Mac- 
kenzie River,  and  of  the  current  which  could  alone  have 
brought  it. 

Tlie  drift-wood  found  on  the  whole  of  the  southern 
coast  of  the  Polar  Sea,  from  Mackenzie's  River  to  Point 
'J'urn-again,  was  fully  ascertained  to  have  been  brought 
entirely  from  the  westward,  not  only  from  the  Macken- 
zie, but  also,  as  we  know  from  Simjjson,  down  the  nu- 
merous rivers  falling  from  the  Rocky  Mountains  ;  the 
easterly  current  setting  through  Behring's  Strait  carries 
this  drift-timber  to  the  extreme  easterly  end  of  the 
American  coast-  Admiral  Krusenstern,  in  1823,  in  re- 
ply to  a  question  put  to  him  on  this  subject  regarding 
two  Russian  ships  that  had  gone  from  the  coast  of  Asia 
into  the  Strait  of  Behring,  writes,  "with  respect  to  the 
currents  in  these  straits,  they  have  been  observed  con- 
stantly to  set  on  the  coast  of  Asia  to  the  N.W. ;  near 
the  coast  of  Anu>rica,  to  the  N.E.  ;  and  off  ley  Cape, 
near  which  the  ships  renuiined  four  days,  due  east,  at 
the  rate  of  25  and  'M)  miles  a  day." 

The  extreme  point  seen  to  the  northward,  on  tho 
western  side  of  the  estuary,  Back  named  Cape  Richard- 


M\ 


n 


back's  journey  to  the  polar  sea.  327 


ited  by  the 
11,  broke  out 
li«irs  was  a 

itate  of  pri- 
jiii  canyiiig 
^n  his  inteii- 
Point  Turn- 
by  Franklin, 
vard  to  trace 
3 ;  but  they 
fifteen  miles 
most  severe 
id  midh;g  at 
id  of  vefjc^ta- 
es  of  drift- 
.  nine  inches 
"  a  piece  of 
Lt  the  fact  of 
a  establishes 
of  the  iMac- 
d  alone  have 

lie  southern 

iver  to  Point 

>een  brouf^ht 

he  Macken- 

)\vn  the  nu- 

antains  ;  the 

trait  carries 

end  of  the 

1823,  in  re- 

ct  regarding 

oast  of  Asia 

sj)ect  to  the 

iserved  con- 

S\\V. ;  near 

ley  Cape, 

luc  east,  at 

ard,  on  the 
pe  llichard- 


son.  which,  he  says,  is  in  lat.  (58°  4G',  long.  OG^  20'  W. 
Another  point  a  little  to  the  westward  of  this  he  named 
Maconociiie,  and  thinks  there  is  reason  to  believe  that 
between  them  and  Point  James  Ross  a  passage  exists 
— a  conjecture  fully  verified  by  Deaso  and  Simpson  hav- 
ing sailed  through  it  in  the  year  18:30.  But  of  the  dis- 
coveries of  these  gentlemen  hereafter.  Captain  iJack 
is  also  correct  in  describing  an  open  sea  to  the  eastward 
as  far  as  the  spacious  eastern  extremity  of  Simpson's 
Strait,  and  also  beyond  it  to  the  Gulf  of  Akkoolee.  As 
a  farther  proof  of  an  open  sea,  free  of  land,  ho  says  that 
a  gale  of  wind  from  the  eastward  swept  a  whole  field  of 
ice  from  that  gulf  past  Back's  Estuary,  which,  how- 
ever, a  westerly  gale  brought  back  again,  and  it  disap- 
peared. 

Pinned  down  as  he  was  to  this  miserable  spot,  when 
nothing  more  could  be  done,  '*  1  felt,"  he  says,  "  1  had 
no  choice  ;  and,  assembling  the  men,  1  informed  tlnun 
that  th(i  period  fixed  by  his  majesty's  government  for  my 
return  had  arrived,  and  it  now  only  remained  to  unfurl 
the  British  Hag,  and  salute  it  with  three  cheers,  in  hon- 
or of  his  most  gracious  majesty,  giving  his  royal  name 
of  William  the  Fourth's  Land  to  this  part  of  Atnerica.'* 

On  the  l^th  of  August  the  ice  in  the  estuary  had  suf- 
ficiently parted  to  allow  the  boat  to  proceed,  and  with 
open  water  and  a  fair  wind,  they  made  aliout  twenty 
miles  to  the  southward,  in  commencing  their  return, 
"  where,  for  a  second  time  in  nine  days,"  liack  says, 
"  we  partook  of  a  warm  meal."  The  many  didicultios 
they  had  experienced  in  falling  down  the  river  were  at 
least  doubled  in  the  lal)or  of  going  against  the  stream  ; 
rocks  and  rapids,  and  sand-banks,  with  numerous  Porta- 
ges, were  all  again  to  be  encountered.  "One  t.  iy," 
Back  says,  "wo  ascended  between  sixteen  and  twenty 
rapids."  It  would  bo  a  waste  of  the  reader's  time,  and 
a  trial  of  his  patience,  to  repeat  what  has  already  been 
said  regarding  this  river. 

Having  ascended  the  high  grounds  which  divide  tho 
northern  from  the  southern  stre,  ,ns.  the  Aylnier,  the 
Artillery,  and  the  Clinton  (^olden  Lakes  embellish  the 
landscape,  and  discharge  their  waters  into  the  (treat 
Slave  Lake.     Hero  Back  describes,  and  gives  a  print  of, 


^ 


.1 


"\  ■ 


328 


ARCTIC    VOYAGED. 


: 


H 


.,!• 


•"> 


\u- 1 


I'h 


s 


f    :)  '.i     . 


I!.,: 


rr 


..I 


I 


( 


'a ' 


!i  splendid  riiscjid«>,  wliirli  ho  mimos  Parry's  l^'alLs,  jiud 
says  it  is  oiio  ot"  tlie  firaiulest  objects  in  iiulnre. 

"  The  color  of  ihe  wat»«r  varied  tioin  a  very  li^'lit  to  a  very 
dark  Ljreeii ;  and  the  spray,  which  spread  a  diiuiifSH  altov*', 
was  thrown  np  in  clouds  (if  lijj;ht  gray.  Niaji;ara,  \\  illicr- 
f'orcc's  Falls  in  Hood's  llivcr,  tlio  Hills  of  KakabiUka  near 
Laki>  Superior,  the  Swiss  or  Italian  falls,  altlnMifrh  they  may 
each  '  charm  th<»  eye  with  dr«*a»l,'  are  not  to  he  com|)ared  to 
this  tor  spliMidor  ot  etVect.  It  w:'s  the  most  imposin;,'  specta- 
ele  I  had  ever  witnessed  ;  and  as  its  J»erg-lik«>  appearanco 
br.tuijht  to  mind  associations  of  another  scene,  1  bestowed 
upon  it  th«>  name  of  our  ct'h^brated  navif^afor,  Sir  Kdwai'd 
I'arry,  and  called  it  I'arry's  Falls."— P.   !.''):{. 

As  they  proceeded,  the  Indians  brought  tliem  provi- 
sions from  time  t«)  time  ;  and  the  jjood  old  chief  Akiiitelio, 
with  his  foll(»wers,  tiioujih  not  very  successful,  was  not 
wantinjT  in  his  contributions.  This  old  friend  to  Sir 
.lohn  Franklin  was  underiioing  the  usual  course  which 
old  ago  and  woiikness  inthct  on  all  tlio  Indian  chiefs. 

"  }Ie  is  no  longer  the  same  aclivi^  and  imi)ortanf  person 
that  h(^  was  in  those  davs ;  for,  bt>sides  the  intinnities  that 
have  crept  upon  him,  h<»  has  grown  |)eevish  an<l  tickle.  His 
once  absohitt^  authority  is  conse(|uentlv  reiluced  to  a  shadow  ; 
and  with  the  exc«'ption  of  his  sons  and  his  own  family,  he  can 
scarcely  boast  of  a  single  subject  t)r  adherent  in  his  summer 
excursions  to  Inmt.  l)uring  winter,  however,  the  clan  still 
keep  together  as  formerly.'* — I',  •li'itj. 

The  Indians  believe  in  tho  existence  of  Ono  (ireat 
Spirit,  who  nnvards  tho  j^ood  and  punishes  tho  evil- 
doer. JJack  says,  tlnit,  speaking  witli  tho  Cauiarado  do 
iMiuidevillo,  a  potent  Chipewyan  chief,  rogardinii;  tho 
due  obsorviuico  of  certain  UH)ral  precepts  for  liis  future 
guidance,  he  listened  with  nu)st  profoiuid  attention  and 
gravity.  Having  concludtul,  lie  rais»5d  his  head  a  littles 
and,  with  eyes  tixed  on  the  lloor,  said,  in  a  low  tmd 
st)leuui  tone,  "  Tho  chief's  words  have  siuik  deep  into 
my  heart,  and  I  shall  often  think  of  tliem  when  1  am 
aK)ne.  It  is  true  that  I  am  ignorant ;  but  I  never  lie 
down  at  night  in  my  lodge  without  whispering  to  tho 
(treat  Si)irit  a  prayer  for  forgiveness,  if  I  liave  done  any 
thing  wrong  that  day."  This  heathen  may  be  said  to 
luive  Inid  no  religion,  but  his  feelings  and  practice  were 
the  dictates  of  a  genuine  piety. 


l! 


t 


RAfKH    JOURNKY    TO    THE    TOLAR   SEA.       329 


Fiillw,  anil 
e. 

it  t«)  n  vt'i-y 
ii<>t<.s  ;ii»(»V(', 
ra,  WillxT- 
i)ikk!i   near 

I  llii'y  iiiiiy 
•inpaivd  Jo 
liii^'  spt'cfa- 
ippramiico 

brstdwcd 
ir  Kdwai'd 

am  provi- 
Akiiitclio, 
I,  was  not 
u\  to  Sir 
rso  wliiili 
^liiols. 

int  person 
nitifs  that 
•kl<?.     His 

II  shadow ; 
ily,  ho  can 
is  HummiT 
!  clun  still 

110   (Tl-OIlt 

tho  ovil- 
larndo  do 
rdiiit;  tho 
lis  tiituro 
ntion  tiiid 
<i  a  littlo, 
low  uiid 
lof'j)  into 
len  1  am 
never  lie 
ijl  to  tho 
done  any 
e  said  to 
ice  were 


Oil  the  'J  Jill  of  Juno  l?ack  roa(h(>d  Norway  House, 
and  haviiiii  arran^M-d  the  ( 'onijiany's  ace. ,;;:;!;•.  set  out  Cor 
IMontrt'al,  where,  in  liis  passaj^'e  tliron^^h  the  I'liittMl 
Stales,  he  received  the  kiiah'st  attentions  ]  lo  left  New 
^  ork  on  th(^  17th  of  An^ust,  and  aiTived  ai  Liverpool  on 
the  Hth  of  Septeniher,  alUM'  an  absence*  of  two  years 
and  nearly  scneii  months.  Mr.  Khv^,  with  «'iuht  (d"  tho 
IIHM1,  reached  Kn^dand  in  tin*  Hudson's  Hay  ( 'ojnpany'n 
ship  in  October.  His  .najesty  luMiored  Hack  with  an  au- 
dience, and  expresm'd  his  apjirobation  of  liis  efforts,  first 
ill  the  cause  of  humanity,  and  m'xt  in  that  of  geographi- 
cal and  scientific  res«iarch. 

In  glancinj;  over  the  subjects  of  natural  liistory  men- 
tiotied  in  the  Apjiendix— the  cjuadriipeds,  birds,  and  fish- 
es described  in  Kn^iland  by  Hr.  Kichardson,  the  insects 
by  Mr.  Children,  and  the  plants  by  Sir  William  Hooker 
— it  is  impossible  not  to  bestow  tho  hif;hest  de<;r«Mf  of 
praise  on  Mr.  King,  who,  with  great  exertion  and  dili- 
gence iti  collecting,  and  careful  attention  in  preserving 
them,  must  liave  undergone  tmich  labor  and  constant 
anxiety.  Dr.  Richardson  says,  "■  Those*  specimtMis  wero 
all  candully  prepared  by  Mr.  Ricliard  King,  surgeon  to 
tho  expediticm,  who  des«M-ves  tin*  thanks  of  zoologists  for 
devoting  so  much  time  and  labor  to  tho  promotion  of  tho 


ficienee, 


E  K  '.' 


/ 


>l      N 


330 


ARCTIC   VOYAGES. 


-.    t  i 

•'I 


•  ^  ) 


♦I 


nrH 


t  u 


'  A'''r\ 


•V   ' 


4  -  'A 

if      v 


i 

I 


J 


't 


CHAPTER  XIII. 
CAPTAIN  GEORGE  BACK. 

1836-37. 

Narrative  of  an  Exprdition  iti  H.  M.  S.  Terror,  undertak- 
en with  a  view  to  Gccgraphical  Discovery  on  the  Arctic 
Shores. 

Tins  voyage  wns  rocominondod  by  the  Royal  Goo- 
jirKi)lncal  Sotiety  to  thn  colonial  secretary,  and  by  him 
to  the  Lords  of  the  Admiralty.  The  olycct  of  the  so- 
ciety was  nearly  the  same  as  that  on  which  Captain  Ly- 
on had  been  emj)loyed ;  and  the  Admiralty  having  sup- 
plied a  ship,  the  Tenor,  fmniishod  him  also  with  instruc- 
tions, the  jjeneral  import  of  which  was,  that  he  should 
proceed  in  the  first  instance  to  Wajijer  River  or  Repulse 
JJay,  as  he  should  find  most  expedient;  observing,  how- 
ever, that,  at  Salisbury  Island,  "you  will  liave  to  choose 
between  the  direct  and  obvious  course  up  Frozen  Strait, 
which  was  performed  with  a|)parent  ease  by  the  Fury 
and  ilecla  in  18'J1,  or  the  more  circuitous  route  by  the 
Welconu',  whicli  was  unsuccessfully  attempted  by  tlio 
(Jriper  in  1KJ4."  Ciiptain  Back,  having  this  choice, 
from  such  high  authority — success  on  the  one  hand,  and 
failure  on  the  other — could  scarcely  venture  to  hesitate 
in  his  decision ;  he  unfortunately,  though  naturally 
enough,  made  choice  of  flie  former,  or  easy  route. 
Whichsoctvtn'  of  the  two  bays,  Repulse  or  Wager,  ho 
should  be  able  to  reach  (and  neither  of  them  did  ho 
reach),  the  Terror  was  to  be  left  with  an  oflicer,  to  take 
charge  of  Ihm*,  and  to  (Muploy  himself  in  making  surv«^ys 
and  observations,  while  \\w  captain,  with  a  large  l)arty, 
should  cross  the  int-irvening  land  to  the  eastern  shore  of 
Prince  Regent's  Inlet,  sending  one  party  to  the  north  as 
far  as  the  Fuiy  and  Ilecla  Strait,  and  the  other  to  pur- 
sue the  continental  coast-line  to  the  mouth  or  estuary 
of  Back's  River,  and  its  continuation  as  far  as  the  Point 
Turn-again  of  Franklin.  These  were  the  objects  of  the 
voyage,  as  poiuted  out  by  the  Geographical  Society. 


\  • 


^ 


back's    attempt    to    reach    REl'ULSE    RAY.    331 


vndertalc- 
'hc  Arctic 

yal  Gno- 
J  by  him 
f  the  so- 
)tuin  Ly- 
ving  sup- 
i  iiistruo 
e  should 
Ropulso 
ng,  how- 
o  chooso 
an  .Strait, 
he  Fury 
te  by  the 
d  by  tho 
i  dioice, 
uuid.  nud 
>  liosiliito 
niiturully 
y  routes, 
iigor,  ho 
II  did  he 
r,  to  take 
;  survt^ys 
'ro  party, 
shoni  of 
north  as 
r  to  pur- 
•  estuary 
he  Point 
iitsof  the 
:iety. 


Tho  details  of  tho  instructions  aro  not  nocossaiy  to  bo 
staffed,  as  tho  object  of  thoni  failed;  but  one  remark  is 
Uiiuh^  in  them,  wiiich  can  not  always,  however  advisable, 
be  ccmiplied  with  :  it  is  their  lordships'  full  belief  that  aL" 
the  service  detailed  may  be  fully  and  faithfully  perform- 
ed in  th(^  course  of  the  present  season,  and  "  that  this 
Arctic  oxpjidition  may  l)e  distinguished  from  all  others  by 
tlie  promptitude  of  its  execution,  and  by  escaping  tVoiu 
the  gloomy  and  unprolitable  waste  of  eight  jnontlis'  de- 
tention :  it  is  therefore  our  distinct  orders  that  eviMy  ef- 
fort shall  be  made  to  return  to  England  in  the  fall  of  this 
year."  The  old  proverb  may  here  bo  applied  :  "  Man 
proposes,  but  CJod  disposes."  JJack  and  his  associates 
not  only  wintered,  but  were  w«Mlged  up  by  massive  ico 
in  the  wid(5  ocean  for  niiui  whole  months,  from  October 
to  .luly,  four  of  wh'ch  were  spent  on  "an  icy  cradle," 
as  Captain  liack  graphically  calls  it;  many  scenes  aro 
also  graphically  atid  beautifully  expressed,  in  nutnoroua 
exquisite  j)rints  by  Lieutenant  (now  Captain)  Smyth. 
Yet  the  Terror  has  survived  it  all,  was  throe  or  four 
years  in  the  Antarctic  Ocean,  and  is  now  with  Sir  John 
Franklin  in  tho  Polar  Seas. 

On  tho  present  occasion  she  was  commanded,  ofiTicer- 
cd,  and  manned  as  follows : 

ficoriic  I?ark,  Caj)taln. 

William  Hjnyth,   f 

Owen  Stanley,      >  L^jutcnaiita. 

Arch.  M'Miinlo,    ) 

(Jriihain  (ioro,       1 

Kt)lH'rt  MCliiro,    > Mates. 

TrUr  FisliiT,         ) 

Cliarlrs  Marcuant,  Extra  Matr*. 

Jami's  Oonovan,  Suriri'on. 

J.  A.  iMimlti,  Assistant  Sur;(ron. 

Williaiii  I,a\Vfs,  ("jerk  in  (iiara;o. 

Jamos  Sauuilers,  Acting  Master. 

ia  OffictTS. 
4  Warrant  Officers. 
13   I'ftty  Officers. 
44  Seamen  and  Marines. 

73  Total. 
It  may  as  well  bt)  at  once  stated,  that  Smyth  and  Stan- 
ley aro  now  captains  ;  Fisher  and  M'Murdo,  command- 
ers ;  (tore,  M'Cluro,  and  Marcuard,  lieutenants;  ,T.  A. 
Mould,  surgeon  ;  Wni.  Lawes,  paymaster  and  purser ; 
J  as.  Saunders,  master. 


1  V 

!; 

.1         'V 

.-■  > 

'f. 

J' 

332 


ARCTIC    VOYAGES. 


1  i '  l 

'I 


''V' 


«    ^i 


rr  1. 


(I;    '1'^?. 


On  tlio  14th  of  June,  18:50,  llic^  Tt^rror  loft  Cliathnm, 
and  on  the  'Jrith  of  July  crossed  Davis's  .Strait.  On  that 
evening,  when  the  weather  cleared  up,  JJack  says,  "  We 
obs(!rved  an  enormous  iceherji,  the  j)er|)(;ndicular  face  of 
which  was  not  h'ss  than  300  feet  high."  Enormous  in- 
deed :  in  what  depth  of  water  could  it  l)e,  or  had  it  been 
floating  ?  The  next  morning  is  describ(ul  as  bt^autifully 
fine,  "  the  tall  ship,  with  all  her  sails  set,  threading  her 
graceful  way  through  the  masses  of  ice,  upon  a  sea  as 
smooth  as  an  inland  lake."  A  veiy  difl'erent  scene  quickly 
succeeded  on  approaching  that  universally-detested  Res- 
olution Island,  with  its  dense  fogs  and  its  whirlpools,  toss- 
ing iibout  masses  of  ice,  sweeping  the  ship  among  them, 
and  rendering  her  utterly  unuumageable.  Having  got 
clear  of  all  the  imj)ediments,  they  procetnled  as  far  as 
the  Savage  Island..,  where  an  iceberg  either  to|)pled  over 
or  part(^d  with  a  larg(^  mass  from  its  summit ;  "  and  the 
splash  in  the  water,  the  foam  which  succeeded,  and  the 
fearful  rocking  of  the  berg  b(^fore  it  again  settled  upon 
its  base,  gave  us  som(?  notion  of  danger." 

Near  these  islands  a  fleet  of  kaiyacks  and  oomiaks 
hailed  theiu,  as  usual,  with  vociferous  cries  of  tcj/iiKi. 
Back  gives  them  the  same  bad  character  they  had  re- 
ceived from  Lyon  and  others  :  "  The  women,  in  partic- 
ular, were  mon*  outrageous  than  I  had  ever  observed  be- 
fore ;  for,  besides  disposing  of  their  garments,  which  they 
never  hesitated  to  do,  more  than  one  actually  ofl'ered  to 
barter  their  children  for  afew  nec^dles."  A  young  wom- 
an, observing  that  one  of  the  officers  had  not  nuicli  hair 
oji  his  head,  ofl'ered  to  su|)ply  him  with  her  own  at  the 
price  of  a  curtain-ring.  Tlu'se  are  the  same  Hudson's 
Strait  Ks(piimaux  which  Lyon  describes,  and  from  whom 
he  obtained  carved  tigures  of  a  dog  and  bear:  and  it  is 
remarkable  enough  to  lind  liaffin,  in  the  year  Ifil 5,  re- 
cording that,  near  the  Savage  Islands,  "  Among  the  tents 
I  found  a  little  bagge,  in  which  was  a  compnny  of  little 
images  of  num  ;  one  the  image  of  a  woman  with  a  child 
at  her  backe,  all  the  which  I  brfiught  away."* 

On  the  14th  of  August  they  fell  in  with  Nottingham 
Island,  which  is  close  by  Salisbuiy  Island,  the  jjlace  where 
Back's  instructions  pointed  out  the  two  routes  for  his 
*  BniTow'i?  Chronological  History  of  Arctic  Voyngos. 


Ah 


I 


BACKd  ATTEMPT  TO  REACH  REPULSE  HAY.  333 

choiro  ;  nnd  unluckily,  ns  has  been  suid,  ho  pitchod  upon 
that  whidi  was  to  lend  him  "with  enso"  through  the 
Frozen  Strait.  Their  coiu'se  was  now  northwest;  and 
th»iy  proceedi'd  without  much  difficulty  past  the  Trinity 
Islands,  and  beyond  them  as  far  north  as  lat.  G5^  2.3',  and 
opposite  to,  but  some  distance  from,  ho  opening  of  Fro- 
zen Strait.  The  ship  was  forced  toward  it  throuj3;h 
floes  of  ice,  "  boring"  as  they  went  along,  their  object 
being  to  get  near  to  Southampton  Island,  sometimes 
bos(ft,  and  occasionally  getting  into  a  lake  of  water. 

On  the,  5th  of  St^|)temb('r  they  were  tirmly  fixed  in 
the  ice  ;  and  the  whole  of  the  oftictM's,  "with  axes,  ice- 
cliisels,  hands|)ikes,  and  long  poles,  began  the  laborious 
process  of  cutting  away  the  sludge  that  bound  the  pieces 
together."  The  weather  was  thick,  and  though  they 
knew  themselves  to  be  near  the  coast,  they  could  not 
tell  pr(.'cisely  wheniabout  they  were,  for  tluiir  compasses 
were  not  to  be  trusted.  On  the  evening  of  the  llUh  of 
September  the  Cape  Comfort  of  liaffin  bore  nortli-north- 
cast,  and  they  were  not  more  than  live  miles  from  the 
nearest  rocks.  Thumped  about  among  hommocs  of  ice, 
and  "severely  nipped,"  J5dck  says  : 

"  At  this  time  we  appeared  to  be  not  more  tba-ii  four  miles 
from  the  land,  wliich  was  broken  into  exposed  bays,  utterly 
witlioiit  shelter  from  the  north,  and  blocked  up  with  close- 
packed  ice.  Not  a  pool  of  water  was  visible  in  any  direction : 
to  llio  mercy  of  ProvicbMice  alone  could  we  look  for  rescue 
from  our  perilous  situation.  None  but  those  who  have  expe- 
rienced it  can  judire  of  the  weariness  of  liearf,  the  blank  of 
feeliutr,  the  feverish  sickliness  of  taste,  which  pets  the  btMler 
of  tlif  whole  man  under  circumstances  such  as  these.  Not  an 
hicident  occurred  to  relieve  for  a  moment  the  dull  monotony 
of  our  unprolital»le  detention." — 1*.  98. 

Half  the  month  of  September  had  now  slipped  away, 
"  and  we  were  held  still  within  sight  of  tlu^  same  land,  as 
if  it  were  in  the  grasp  of  a  giant :"  a  grasp  which,  from 
this  time  for  eight  or  ten  months  to  come,  was  as  obsti- 
nately and  firmly  fixed  as  that  of  the  Old  Man  of  the  Sea 
on  the  shoulders  of  Sindbad  tht^  Sailor.  That  sam(*  land 
was  Cape  Comfort,  which  Hack  had  but  too  much  reason 
to  call  "  a  most  inappropriate  iiann^ ;"  ior,  helpless  as  the 
BJiip  was,  wedged  in  betwj'en  blocks  of  ice,  and  driv(>n 
Olio  day  on  one  side  uud  the  next  on  tho  other  of  tho 


,■  !f 


331 


ARCTIC    VOYAGEd. 


U' 


!. 


.Ill 

.1  r  1  • 


■■'f 


'  / 


;» 


y  I 


t     f,|i; 


>     If   ,    .  ;, 


I  1 


iil 


Cfipo  of  this  ol)noxi()US  name,  nnd  somotimes  within 
tlireo  or  four  miles  of  it,  ho  hud  roason  to  apprehend 
the  worst  cons(ujuences.  For  tlie  whole  of  September, 
in  fact,  he  was  whirled  about  from  Cape  Comfort  to 
Capo  Bylof  and  Baftin's  Island,  and  back  nj^ain  ;  and 
during  all  this  whirling  backward  and  forward,  just  as 
the  wind,  or  the  current,  or  the  tide  directed,  his  case 
was  almost  hopeless.  Seeing  the  growing  peril  of  his 
situation.  Captain  Back  took  the  o))inion  of  his  olTicers 
as  to  the  probability  of  any  farther  progi'ess  being  niado 
that  season  to  Repulse  Bay  :  their  unanimous  convic- 
tion, from  the  expe7ience  of  the  tiiirty-four  days  in 
which  the  ship  had  been  beset,  was,  that  any  thing  moro 
with  that  view  was  utterly  impracticable ;  and  they 
suggc^sted  the  adoption  of  certain  precautions  in  tho 
event  of  their  being  obliged  to  have  recourse  to  tho 
boats  for  safety. 

It  was  now  pretty  obvious  that  there  was  but  small 
chance  for  any  escape  from  the  "  giant"  for  nine  or  ten 
months  to  come,  and  Back  therefore  made  up  his  u»'.id 
to  cut  a  dock  in  a  favorable  large  Hoo,  which  the  ice- 
mato  told  him  was  the  only  one  sufficiently  strong  for 
tho  purpose,  and  that  the  ship  would  be  protected  as 
long  as  it  held  together.  Fortunately,  however,  the 
very  next  day  a  general  commotion  took  ])lace,  when 
t\w  whole  body  of  ice  separated  into  single  masses, 
tossed  into  lieaps,  or  ground  into  powder,  and  crushed 
every  thing  that  opposed  them,  rushing  violently  to  tho 
westward,  directly  up  the  Froztm  Strait ;  and  tlius 
ended  for  a  time  the  projected  lloating  dock,  the  (loo 
having  wholly  disappeared ;  but  others  soon  supplied  its 
})lace,  and  the  Terror  was  as  fast  as  ever,  without  tho 
labor  of  digging  a  dock.  "  Thus,"  says  Back,  "  ended  a 
month  of  vexation,  disappointment,  and  anxiety,  to  mo 
personally  more  distressing  and  intolerable  than  the 
worst  pressure  of  tho  worst  evils  which  had  befallen 
me  in  any  other  expedition." 

The  month  of  November  having  commenced,  it  be- 
came necessary  to  sot  about  a  warming  apparatus  for  the 
ship  ;  but  the  experiment  woefully  failed.  They  were 
still  off  Ca|)e  Comfort,  and  so  near  the  shore  that  the 
people  strolled  over  the  ice  to  it;  and  liieutenunt  Stuu- 


!. 


I 


BACK  S  ATTEMPT  TO  REACH  REPULSE  BAY.  335 


mes  within 
>  nppreliond 
.Se|)ttMnl)er, 
Coiulort  to 
n^uin  ;   and 
iird,  just  as 
id,  his  cfiso 
peril  of  his 
his  olTicors 
being  niado 
nus  convio- 
ur  (lays  in 
thing  nioro 
and  th(^y 
ons  in  tho 
jrso  to  tho 

I  but  small 
nine  or  ton 
p  his  ip.id 
ii  the  ice- 
strong  for 
otected  as 
vever,  the 
ace,  when 
e   masses, 
d  crushed 
itly  to  tho 
and  tlius 
tho  floo 
pplied  its 
thout  tlm 
ended  a 
y,  to  mo 
than    the 
befallen 

ed,  it  be- 
us  for  the 
loy  were 
that  the 
uit  iS tail- 


ley  went  to  survey  a  harbor,  which  ho  found  a  mile  and 
a  half  long,  by  half  a  mile  broad,  and  to  which  was  giv- 
en the  name  of  Smyth's  Harbor.  On  tho  14th,  tho  pack 
which  had  hurried  them  about  liad  taken  them,  accord- 
ing to  Lieutenant  Stanley's  measurement,  within  3()50 
yards  of  the  inaccessible  cliffs  of  Tape  Comfort,  on 
which  there  was  refison  to  apprehend  that  the  ice  might 
strike,  break  up,  and  wreck  the  ship ;  but  she  rest«>d  se- 
cure on  her  icy  cradle,  where  she  lay  passively  boforo 
tho  Cojnfortable  Cape.  On  tho  '^Ist  of  November,  in 
order  to  fix  the  minds  of  the  crew  on  some  obji^ct  for 
omployment.  Back  ordered  them  to  build  up  snow  walls 
and  galleries  on  the  (loe  ;  and  these  being  for  the  com- 
fort of  all,  the  work  was  cheorfully  undertaken,  and  the 
exercise  had  a  beneficial  effect  on  their  liealth. 

They  may  now  bo  considered  to  have  taken  up  tlieir 
long  winter  quarters,  of  nine  months  at  least,  cm  a  float- 
ing floe  of  ice  ;  and  Back,  wisely  recollecting  the  exam- 
ple of  Parry,  with  tho  same  view  induced  the  officers  to 
assist  him  in  contriving  some  amusement  for  the  men. 
They  cheerfully  assisted,  and  the  farce  of  Monsieur  Ton- 
son  was  got  up.  It  was  ushered  in  with  an  appropriate 
prologue  by  Lieutenant  Smyth,  and  set  off  with  scen- 
oiy  by  the  brush  of  that  accomplished  artist ;  and  tho 
piece  is  stated  to  have  gone  off  with  hearty  laughter, 
plentiful  plaudits,  and  at  the  conclusion  with  three  hearty 
cheers.  This  is  as  it  ought  to  be  ;  and  so  is  the  even- 
ing school  instituted  under  the  superintendence  of  Lieu- 
tenant Smyth,  and  »)CcasionalIy  visited  by  Back. 

About  two  months  before  this,  say  about  the  middle 
of  Ocvober,  Captain  Back  gave  his  ship's  company  a  veiy 
unfavorable  character,  which  cheerfulness  and  occupa- 
tion would  seem  to  have  had  the  effect  of  reforming  :  in 
point  of  fact,  they  were  mostly  undisciplined  colliers, 
and  almost  equally  undisciplined  whale  fishermen ;  he 
liad  only  a  few  "  men-of-war  men,"  ''  who  were  worth 
the  whole  together." 

"  The  want  of  discipline  and  attention  to  personal  comfort 
wore  most  conapicuous ;  and  though  tho  wholesomr  n-irula- 
lions  practiced  in  his  miijesty's  service  were  most  ritridly  at- 
tended to  in  tho  Terror,  yo£  such  was  the  imsociiibility, 
tliough  without  any  ill  will,  that  it  was  only  by  a  steady  aud 


i 


330 


ARCTIC    VOYAGE3. 


*i 


I 


I    !'! 


"11  ■• 


I    , 


Hi' 


■uiidi'vintinir  RVHtrm  piirsnod  by  tlic  first  lioutonant  tliat  tlicy 
were  hnm^ht,  iil  nil  toi^etlicr  with  tli(*  freliiigrt  (if  iiiessin;ili's. 
....  KecipnK'ity  of  kindness,  a  generous  iiud  sclf-dciiv- 
iii'{  disposition,  n,  spirit  of  frankness,  a  hearty  and  above- 
board  manner — these  are  the  true  characteristics  of  the  lirit- 
ish  seamen;  and  the  want  of  these  is  seldom  compensated 
by  other  (jualities.  In  our  case — and  I  mention  this  merely 
to  f«how  the  ditference  of  olden  and  modern  times — then; 
•were  only  three  or  four  in  the  ship  who  could  not  write  ;  all 
read  ;  some  recited  whole  pages  of  poetry ;  others  sang 
French  songs  ;  yet  with  all  this,  had  they  been  h'ff  to  them- 
Belves,  I  verily  believe  a  more  unsociable,  8usj)icious,  and  un- 
comfortiible  set  of  people  could  not  have  been  found.  Oh  ! 
if  the  two  an.'  incompatibl(>,  givt*  me  the  old  .hick  Tiir,  who 
wouhl  stand  up  for  ids  ship,  and  give  his  life  fur  his  mess- 
mate."—I'.  I2li,  1^9. 

Tho  Wi'ather  and  their  situntion  were  such  now  as  to 
bring;  even  these  rei)n»biites  to  their  senses  :  tiie  ther- 
mometer WHS  at  — .5.'}'^,  making  the  ra])id  extraction  of 
heat  beyond  endtirance,  and  causing  the  fnces  to  be  frost- 
bitten ;  and  the  fireplaces  were  so  ill  contrived  as  to  af- 
ford no  salutary  heat;  they  created,  mor(H)ver,  "  a  fetid 
and  impure  atmosphere,  that  lurked  in  the  lower  parts 
of  the  deck  :"  all  the  while  tho 'Perror  was  tossing  about 
on  a  tield  of  ice,  twelve  or  fourteen  miles  to  tho  east- 
ward of  that  detestable  Cape  C^omfort.  Under  such 
comforts,  the  want  of  cheerfulness  ainoiig  such  persons 
is  not  to  be  wonde:red  at ;  but  it  may  also  have  arisen,  as 
IJack  suggests,  from  tludr  never  having  been  suhject  to 
tho  salutary  inlluenco  of  naval  discipline.  "  It  was  in 
vain,"  ho  says,  "  we  endeavored  to  lead  them  into  the 
wholesome  habit  of  amusing  themselves  with  games  or 
dancing,  to  cheer  their  spirits,  and  while  away  the  long 
hours  of  our  winter  evenings." 

Oil  the  11th  of  Jamiary  they  found  tho  Terror  had 
been  carried  upon  her  ice-wagon  to  within  throe  miles 
of  Hidge  Clilf,  which  would  appear  to  bo  at  the  entrance 
of  Stanley  Harbor,  about  thirty  miles  to  the  southward 
of  the  interminabh^  Capo  Comfort.  In  Februarj-  tho 
cold  was  intense;  the  thermometer  descended  to — .')4^  ; 
sevoral  wore  on  the  sick-list,  and  Mr.  Donaldson,  a  gun- 
ner, who  had  served  with  Parry,  died.  Well  might 
Back  begin  to  feel  uncomfortable  :  "  tho  eight  months 


Mi 


J\'\i 


BACK'd    ATTEMl'T    To    KEACll    REl'LLriii    UAV.  ^37 


that  tln-y 
<'ssin;itcs. 
i*<'If-(li'nv- 

1(1     Ill)f»V(!- 

tlic  HriN 
ipt'iisiiti'd 
is  niiTcly 
t's — then! 
vriu-  ;  all 
lers  8!ing 
f  to  tlu'in- 
H,  and  tni- 
ml.  Oh  ! 
Tar,  who 
hid  luess- 


10 w  as  to 

tho  tlior- 

ictioii  of 

bo  trost- 

as  to  nf- 

"  11  fotid 

vor  parts 

ing  about 

ho  oast- 

lor  such 

.  porsous 

iriseu,  ns 

iibjoct  to 

was  in 

into  tho 

amos  or 

tho  long 

rror  had 
36  niilos 
pntrancB 
ithward 
arj'  the 
—54^  ; 
,  a  ^nn- 
1  niisiht 
months 


sinco  wo  left  Mniiland  sconiod  lonycM"  than  any  thrco 
yoars  of  my  formor  not  nnadv«»ntnroiis  hfo  ;  days  wt-ro 
WfokiiJ,  weoks  month;*,  m(»nths  ahnost  y»'ar.s."  Hot  tho 
worst  was  yet  to  como,  and  hut  just  conunoncinji :  an 
oponinj];  in  tho  floo  was  obsorvod  within  forty  paciis  of 
tin'  slhp  ;  "Ji  most  unpromisinj,'  si^lil,  foliowtnl  by  iniui- 
morablo  cracl^s."  wliicli  loft  no  doubt  "  that  tho  bulwark 
of  our  sociu'ity  had  \wen  shattorod." 

It  still  hold  toiii'thor  for  throe  or  four  days,  and,  cra/y 
as  it  was,  carried  them  within  si^ht  of  S«'a-horse  Point, 
the  southern  extromo  of  Southampton  Island,  when,  on 
tho  IHth  »)f  February,  tin;  crashinuof  tlu;  ice  at  the  east- 
ern odgo  of  tho  floo  was  alarmingly  loud,  followed  by  a 
hoarse  rushing  sound,  and  several  severe  shocks  against 
tho  shi|) ;  and  it  is  added,  "the  rent  in  tho  ico  now 
formed  one  contiimous  lino  of  reparation,  directly  through 
tlio  contor  on  which  tho  ship  was  mounted." 

"  Th<?  ship  now  bi'frnn  to  complain,  and  strained  consider- 
ably under  the  counter.  Sin;  tlieii  heeled  over  to  [xirt,  and 
relieved  herself  abcjut  six  inches  from  the  starboard  embank- 
ment against  the  side,  makinf^  by  the  effort  gaping  r«Mjls 
through  the  snow  walls.  At  this  lime,  the  crasliing,  grind- 
ing, and  nisliing  noise  beneath,  as  well  as  at  the  bord(MS  (»f 
the  iloe,  tht^  rents  and  cracks  in  all  tUrections  toward  tin;  ship, 
herself  sutfering  much,  the  fn'ezing  cold  of — '3'.i^,  combined 
to  render  our  situation  not  a  little  ptsrilous  and  uncomforta- 
ble."—1\  '2'2i. 

The  cracking,  and  groaning,  and  comj)laining  of  tho 
poor  Terror,  and  the  interminablo  ice  in  which  she  was 
fixed,  reminds  one  of  tho  "  Ancient  Mariner"  of  (Jolo- 
ridgo  : 

"  The  ico  \vn8  licro, 
Thf!  ice  was  then', 

Tilt'  ice  wa."  all  around  ; 
It  cracked  laid  irrowled, 
And  roared  and  liowled, 
Like  noidea  in  a  swound." 

Tho  shock  ended  by  tin;  ice  breaking  uj)  into  niiusses, 
nnd  striking  tho  ship  violently  every  moment ;  and  that 
which  remained  all  round  was  so  splintered  and  jaggcsd, 
that  to  put  a  boat  upon  it  was  out  of  tho  question.  No 
means,  therefore,  were  left  to  convoy  any  thing  to  tho 
land,  distant  at  least  seven  or  nine  miles ;  and  IJick  says, 
"  1  think  it  ut  least  doubtful  whether  any  one,  oven  with- 


"^y 


»./Jf  vt 


M 

?■■ 

, 

f 

( 

< 

' 

) 

^- 

t 

•; 

•.hol'i 


n.'iH 


AKLTir    V(»YA<;r,H. 


II 


c     »      I 


I ' 


t  ' 


i 


■  '1  . 

I'    I 


I 


V 


■f. 


!*   i 


t 


I  f 


out  iMiciniihnnicc,  roiiM  lmv«!  rciiclu'd  it."     On  tlin 'JOih 
of  Frhni.irv  tlic  wlinhi  of  the  ice  was  iiyiiiii  in  uiitfinn, 
and  sr|ianitr(l  itself  rntircly  t'l'Mni  tin*  sturlxmnl  sido  of 
tint  sliip,  tliniwini:  down  and  rarrvin;^  away  tlicsif  om- 
hankintMits,  unllorirs,  and  walls  of  snow  wliicli  had  lio'n 
<'r«M't«'d  llir  tlirir  ronvrninicc,  oxcn'isi*,  and  aninst'incnt  ; 
*»  sonn^  of  tlir  j,MiIlrrirs,"  says  Mack,  "were  now  tloatini; 
in  tlio  water,  lookin<r  liko  tnnnols.     '^Po  find  ourscivos  at, 
frcedoni  t(»  move  wonid,  two  inontlis  later,  have  heen  tho 
snnmiit  of  oiu'  wishes;   hut  now  we  saw  it  with  relnct- 
nnce,  as  it  only  mocked  ns  with  a  hope  \vhi<'li  coidd  not 
ho  ri'ali/ed,  while  it  involved   us  in  imme(liato  jieril." 
The  ship,  liowever,  was  now  in  the  water,  and  suhject 
to  thi»  ni/)s  and  riihs  of  th»<  masses,  which  are  stated  to 
liave  rrtin'ued  against  h<'r  with  accotiulated  force,  atai 
"to  naik»>  iiei-  crack  fore  and  aft  with  hideous  rr«'akin^, 
tliat  for  some  seconds  held  us  in  suspet)se  for  the  result." 
It  would  appear,  however,  from  the  continued  cnick- 
ini;  of  the  ship  when  the  ice  was  still,  and  (Voni  lier  he- 
inj;  lifted  hodilvi  in  nno  of  tlicse  commotions,  einliteen 
inches,  that  she  had  still  the  hase  of  tho  floe  to  rest  upon  ; 
and    thounh    frecpuMitly    "squeezed"    and    repeatedly 
"  nipped,"  she  was  at   intervals  jerked  up  "  from  the 
])ressuro  underneath,  with  a  ^roan  each  time  from  tho 
Woodwork."     'riu^  endurinj;  Terror  continiu'd  day  after 
day  to  receive  this  kind  of  treatment  without  any  in- 
croasinj;  |eaknff<s  which  seemed  to  prove  hIio  whs  still 
out  of  th(»  water  ;  this  was  nuule  manifest  on  the  1st  of 
INlarch,  when  "  she  hecame  so  ham|)ered  with  ic(!  un- 
derneath, that  the  remainder  of  the  lloe,  on  eitluM"  side, 
moved  alK)ut  ei^ht  or  t«'n  feet  ahead,  leavint;  the  ship 
fixed  in  the  midst,  and  wedijed  np  in  «?very  direction  :"  u 
novelty  which,  it  is  said,  strangely  puz/.led  the  Cireen- 
land  men. 

In  this  way,  with  continual  convulsive  cracks  and  omi- 
nous tremblings,  thus  wedp;ed  in,  flu^  Terror  was  bortie 
away  in  the  midst  of  the  ocean.  Heaven  knows  where, 
for  none  on  l)oard  could  know,  from  the  prevailinc;  fogs 
and  trustless  compasses,  till  the  11th  of  March,  when  u 
little  respite  was  afforded  l)y  the  fuieness  of  the  day, 
which  induced  some  of  the  men  to  amuse  themselves  l)v 
cutting  liguros  of  liouses,  forts,  vessels,  and  men  and 


ii.\(k'.-<   attkmf'T  tu  iiKACii  Kr.ri'Lsi:  n.w.  Xid 


I   UlotilMI, 

I  siilo  of 

lllld    IXM'II 

isiMiii'iit  ; 
V  (loiitiii^ 
•s('lv«'S  nt 

li  irluct- 
[■oiild  not 

0  jH'ril." 
(I  siibjj'ct 

Sfllft'li   to 

niT(>,  imd 
(•r<'nkiiiu', 
n  n'sult." 
«mI  cnick- 

II  licr  hr- 
j'iizhtJM'ii 

'st  upon  ; 
•jifatcdly 
tVoiii  the 
iVoin  \\w 
day  alt  or 

1  any  in- 
wus  still 
JO  1st  of 
I  i<'(?  un- 
tlxT  side, 

tho  sliij) 
ction  :"  ii 
o  Cireen- 

und  onii- 

vas  bonio 

^s  whore, 

lilinc;  logs 

1,  when  u 

the  day, 

iselves  by 

men  and 


Women  Irom  blockH  ofMiiow,  with  little  boys  in  huts  and 
trowsers,  and  de|i(»sitin>i  them  on  a  sniootli  pieci'  ot'  solid 
ici'  clin^in^  to  the  slii|»  tor  exhibition  :  thus  the  b::ht- 
iieartfd  crew,  in  tlie  tiist  moment  that  the  ti'an(|nillity  ot' 
the  ice  and  tln^  retnrnin<;  warmlh  of  tht;  Htin  permitted, 
nronsed  themselves  to  iiiilnliie  in  a  little  ;.'ayety,  and  at 
once  to  l'or;iet  past  danners.  This  state  ot"  tran(|nillity, 
however,  WHS  but  ol"  short  duration:  other  concussions, 
and  ^M"oanini:s  and  tremblings,  some  of  them  more  se- 
vere and  threatening  than  before,  were  renewed  and 
lonn  continued  :  the  ship's  condition  will  be  best  de- 
Hcribed  in  Captai.i  ISacUVs  own  words  : 

"  ( )ii  the  null  >>(  .March  aiiotliiT  riisli  drove  irrcHistibly  oii 
till-  JMrbuanl  (jiiiutrr  and  sli-ra,  aiiiJ  I'urcin^'  tiic  siilp  alitud, 
raisi'd  iit-r  np  on  the  ice.  A  ( liaiitic  ruin  lullMwcd  :  oiu'  |i(ior 
and  cbcrisbi'd  cmirtyaid,  its  wall  and  irclied  doors,  ^'allcry, 
and  wcll-trnddi'ii  patJM,  were  rent,  ami,  in  hoi/h-  jiarts, 
plon^'hcd  up  like  dii->t.  The  slii[t  was  careened  fully  lour 
Htreaks,  and  spnint,'  aleak  as  before.  Scarcely  were  ten  min- 
utes left  us  for  the  expressiuii  of  our  astonisliiiient  that  any 
tbiiii^'  of  biiiuan  biiiltl  could  outlive  sncli  assaults,  when  anoth- 
er e(|iially  violent  rush  succeeded  ;  anil  in  it.s  way  to  the  star- 
board tpiarter,  threw  up  a  rollinLf  wave  thirty  feet  biu'li, 
i-ntwned  by  a  blue  stjiiare  mass  ctf  many  tons,  resemldin^  tlio 
entire  siiU;  of  a  house,  which,  after  lian^'ini,'  ti)r  some  time  iti 
donbttiil  poise  on  the  ridi,'e,  at  lenirfh  tell  with  a  crash  into 
the  hollow,  in  which,  as  in  a  cavern,  the  alter  |)art  of  the  slii[» 
Heenied  embedded.  'J'he  poor  ship  cracketl  and  trembled 
violently  ;  and  lat  one  cnuld  say  that  the  next  minute  wonhl 
not  be  her  last,  aial,  indeed,  bis  own  too,  for  with  her  oiu* 
means  of  safety  would  probably  perish." — 1'.  '2110. 

On  consultinj;  hi.s  officers,  they  aj^reod  that  n  liinlit 
I)oat,  with  provisions,  should,  if  possible,  be  landed  [on 
the  ice],  to  .starve  us  a  last  r«'sourct?  to  connnunicate  with 
the  Hudson's  Hay  Company's  factory  in  the  event  of 
the  loss  ot"  tho  ship,  un  ovent  that  might  happen  ut  any 
moment. 

*'  We  were  in  nioinontary  expectation  of  seeinj?  the  two  re- 
mainiug  tloe-pieces,  (>n  which  we  were  partly  poised,  separate, 
so  as  to  allow  the  ship  to  settle  int<»  the  water,  especially 
^vhen  the  fiuter  portion  of  the  cracked  Hoe,  on  the  starboard 
hide,  suddenly  parted  Irom  its  better  half,  and  glided  mysteri- 
ously away  amonLT  the  still  ruiri-'ed  but  looser  fra^micnts  near. 
JJut  when  our  favmule  lookout,  which  wc  hatl  jestinj:ly  de- 


«. 


*i 


a  '!' 


/§ 


!i  ' 


¥ 


I 


310 


ARCTIC    VOYACJliS. 


iiumiiiJitrd  Mount  ririisaiit.  tlic  tiiltlil'iil  i-oriipaiiiou  of  mir 
\\  .'iimIi'i  iiiL's  ri'iiiii  ( 'ii|>c  IJyIiit  to  tliis  >\»)t,  slam  li  arid  iiii>liakiri 
.'iiiiiil  tilt'  ciasli  and  ruin  wliicli  liad  .--uironudi'd  it — wlicu  this 
too  di'|iart(Ml.  and  hfcauK-  lust  an<l  inidi>linL:i<;>lial>l('  anum^ 
oilier  |>i'aUs  and  lnunuincs,  what  citnld  we  look  for  hut  iiii  nt- 
h'V  drsolatidii  III'  all  the  parts  ol'  our  sysfrni  /" — J*.  'M)\. 

Still  tiicy  miiaiiit'd  tiriri  iis  ii  locU  :  tli<>  sides  of  llin 
icy  cradlo  hud  dcparti-d,  hut  tli«'.  foundation  rcnmiiird 
jiiid  ciirrit'd  its  hiirdcn  aloiii;  with  it  iit  phsisiirij.  ( )n 
ihf  lotli  of  April,  hcinjf  nciir  Sir  .lames  (iordon'H  I>iiy, 
Avhich  is  dose  to  Sea-iiorse  Point,  they  were  met  hy 
rising  waves  of  ice  rolliiiu:  their  hurdens  toward  the  sliip. 
'•()iie  liad  reared  itself  thiily  feet  on  onr  inner  (loe- 
pece,  which,  stron:;  as  it  was,  yave  way  under  tli«^  ac- 
<:!mMlate.d  weij^ht  ;  and  a  mass  of  several  tons  heiui; 
I  ins  upturned  and  added  to  tin;  oriji^iiuil  hulk,  the  wholu 
Ijore  down  slowly  upon  om*  (juart«'r." 

'•The  ship  heiscll"  was  liii^'h  out  of  the  water,  on  tlie  ice, 
but  (his  overto|t|><-d  her  like  a  tower.  Me.-m  lime  wt-  wci») 
{.'ctliiig  nearer  au<l  nearer  to  the  land-ice:  lar^e  r'nts  wero 
shuwiui,'  themselves  in  the  ice,  at  rii,'ht  aiiLrles  on  each  side  of 
the  fore  diains;  flie  ship,  nnahle  to  ri^'ht  lii-rseU",  heiran  to 
complain,  and  the  scent;  every  moment  became  more  ilark  and 
llireatenini,'.  Kxira  purchases  were  fi.xed  to  thi'  pumps;  the 
haiidrt  were  turned  up;  the  sick  provided  for;  and,  th(»iii,'li 
Iiotliiug  etfi'ctual  <M»uld  he  done  for  our  pn'servation,  the  at- 
tenliun  of  the  men  was  occupied  in  lioistiiiir  two  of  the  boats 
hiirher  up.  .  .  .  \Vhal  the  result  of  that  niirlit  mi,i:ht  liave  lieeu 
it  is  impossible  to  say,  and  painful  to  contemplate,  had  not  an 
overrulinj,'  I'rovidence  mercifidly  averted  the  crisis,  by  siid- 
denlv,  and  at  tin;  moment  of  the  greatest  peril,  arresting'  the 

tumult."— I'.  :u;{. 

On  the  "Jlst  they  wero  still  off  Sea-horso  l^oint,  hut 
on  the  •2'.]d  found  tlu'iiiselves  twelve?  or  fifteen  miles 
from  it,  tin?  ship's  head  jjointinj^  toward  Mill  Islands. 
In  this  iH'W  posture  of  alfairs,  Jiack  says,  "  it  whs 
deem»'(l  (expedient  immediately  to  relit,  as  far  as  could 
he  conveni«*ntly  ilone."  The  sails,  which  liad  for  so 
many  months  been  useless,  wero  i)ut  in  order,  the  ship 
was  scoured,  and  thfi  provisions  and  other  articles  wero 
hroua;ht  on  deck,  ready,  in  case  of  need,  to  ho  restowtid. 
()n  this  day  anotiier  death  occurred,  after  a  linj^ering 
disease,  in  the  ])erson  of  A!exand«M'  Vounji,  a  marine. 

From  tho  lUlli  of  May  till  llio  7tli  of  Juno  llio  ico 


n 


, .!  '  W  , 


iiioii  (tf  our 
11(1  mi^li;tU<'ti 
— vvlu'ii  tliin 
alilc  iiimiiig 
It'  liiit  iiii  iil- 

(It's  of  \\w 
rciimiiifd 
isiir«!.  ( )n 
i-(1()m'h  l>!iy, 
>!•(•  mt't  by 
I'd  tlu'  sliij). 

illlHT    llof- 

htv  tlir  ac- 
tons   hriii^ 
,  llio  wholo 

,  on  the  ice, 
inu  wr  wem 
'  r'.'iits  wt'i'o 
cjirli  sidr  of 

I  •It",     l)Ct.'ilIl    to 

(trc  diuk  and 

I  piini|)s;  tlio 

I  and,  tlioiiult 

ilitiM,  tin-   ilt- 

}['  the  Itoats 

t  have  hern 

had  not  an 

isis,  hy  siid- 

irresUny  llio 

l*oint,  hilt 
teen  miles 
iill  Islands. 
*'  it  was 
ir  as  rouid 
iiad  lor  SI) 
Ir,  the  sliip 
licles  wero 

|r»'stow(!d. 
hnjj;ering 

Iniai'ino. 

lo  tlio  ico 


back's  attempt  to  reach  repilse  ray.  311 

reninined  eompaet,  and  not  a  drop  of  wafer  to  ho  se<Mi. 
On  the  !tth  mention  is  still  made  ot"  "  onr  pack,"  unal- 
tered in  area,  thon^li  sliijlitly  diminished  in  thickness, 
and  on  if  "tln^  alter  j)ait  ot"  the  ship  lay  immovahly 
wedyed."  On  tiie  lllli  ol'.luim  the  ice  was  a<;ain  per- 
fectly coin|)act.  Seven  men  were  on  tin*  sick-list.  ( )u 
the  l.")th  of  .June  the  ice  still  stuck  to  the  ship  in  such  a 
manner,  that  JJack  says  "  it  looked  as  if  the  ship  had 
been  placed  in  a  hod  of  some  plastic  composition,  which 
time  had  indnrafed  info  the  solidify,  and  almost  the  siih- 
sta'MM',  of  limestone*  rock."  ( )n  the  'jnth  they  had  heeii 
driftinj^  near  to  Charles's  Island  ;  and  irom  this  day  till 
the  Htli  of  .Inly  tlie  crew  were  employed  in  ende.ivfir- 
inj;  to  releas(s  the  ship  from  her  icy  cradle,  hut  she  still 
remained  impeiietrahly  close. 

On  the  llfh  of  .Inly,  as  ihe  crvw  were  busy  exfiicii- 
ting  cdlirfi*  and  cutting  a  trencdi,  Capfain  iJack  says, 
"Scarcely  had  I  taken  a  few  turns  on  deck  and  (hi- 
sceiided  to  my  cabin,  when  n  loud  rumblinii;  notified 
that  the  ship  hinl  bntlxen  her  icy  bonds,  and  was  slidinjj; 
penfly  down  into  her  own  (dement.  I  run  ha>tily  ou 
deck,  and  joined  in  the  ciieers  of  the  officjMs  and  men, 
who,  dispersed  on  dill'erent  pieces  of  ice,  took  this  si^- 
niticant  method  of  expressing  tlieir  feelinjis  :  it  whs  ii 
sii^ht  not  to  be  forgotten."  For  three  or  t"our  <luys  after 
this  file  ship  had  remained,  as  if  were,  on  luu'  beam 
ends,  so  that  "  no  one  could  move  al)out  the  de<'k  wilh- 
out  holding  on  by  the  ropes  to  windward  ;"  when,  oti 
the  l-lth  of  .Inly,  "suddenly,  and  btd"ore  a  word  c(»ul(f 
l)e  spoken,  the  liberaf(^d  ship  rif^hted  enfir«dy,''  and  "  I 
know  not,"  says  liack,  "  how  many  cheers  commemo- 
rated the  occasion."  It  was  indeed,  as  he  says,  ''a 
sceiu'  not  to  bo  forndften  by  the  spectators." 

Tin*  whole  voyage,  in  fact,  was  ot"  a  laifure  so  extra- 
ordinary and  unparalleled  in  the  iiisfcny  of  voyaiios, 
nncient  and  mctdern,  as  noi  to  be  foi'<i(»ften  even  by  flni 
readers  «tf  it,  sfill  less  by  the  spectators.  A  ship  nctiuilly 
cradled  in  flu*  ice  for  tour  consecutive  mniiths,  and 
ilrauyeil  about  utterly  helpless,  us  indeed  she  hud  been 
full  SIX  monfhs  before,  wedi;ed  immovably  in  or  on  tbtes 

*  MasHtf  it  ico  below  tlio  tiurl'ac't>  ol  the  acim)ri)jcctiiig  IVum  Uic  muUl 
buily  iitiijvf  it, 

r  V  0 


■ik 


312 


ARCTIC    VOYAGES. 


r  ■ 


M 


ii^ 


<i 


\ 


•>• 


!      1 


>  I 


.1  • 


of  ico,  nftnr  a  prnvio'is  month's  sinore  oxortions  on  llio 
part  of  iImj  oirici-rs  and  men  to  cxtricat**  hor,  so  loiiij  as 
sails  and  warps  wen;  of  any  avail — surh  a  caso,  it  may 
confuloiitly  bo  repcatod,  has  no  ijarallcl.  To  pass  a 
winter  auioni;  ico  in  a  ship  firmly  fixed  in  a  hnrlior  or 
clos(?  to  the  shore,  quiiitly  and  without  hard  labor  on  tho 
part  of  tho  men,  and  with  all  thoir  comforts  about  them, 
iiiis  not  beoii  found  disaj^rocsibU? ;  but  to  winter  in  a  ship 
which  for  ton  lonj;  months  was  tossed  about  amid  inter- 
minable ico  in  liie  widcj  octMin,  alwuys  in  motion,  and 
unctiasinjily  threatened  to  bo  crushed  to  atoms,  when 
every  soul  on  boaid  must  inevitably  have  j)erished — such 
a  ciLse  can  not  Ijo  conKunplatiul  without  th»^  stroniiest 
feelin/jfs  of  compassion  for  the  helpless  sufferers.  And 
it  is  highly  credit !il)I(!  and  most  praiseworthy  to  olFicers 
and  nuMi,  and  more  particularly  to  the  former,  that  by 
tlnur  st(!ady  and  unj-epinin^  conduct  they  prevtMited  de- 
spondency from  seiy,in<i;  upon  the  minds  of  the  latter. 
The  ti'aiicjuillity  and  cmjstant  >;ood  humor,  not  to  say 
cheerfulness,  of  Captain  Back,  and  tin  unretnittaij;  <'x- 
eitions  oi'  Lieutenant  (now  Captain)  Smyth,  are  abovo 
}jJl  praise. 

Nothina;  now  was  left  but  to  f^et  home  as  speedily  as 
tliey  could  with  tin;  ''  cni/y,  broken,  and  leaky"  Terror, 
which  they  suc(;oeded  in  brin^iii^  safely  to  Lou,i!;h 
S willy.  "  Thus  ended,"  says  Captain  JJack,  "  an  expe- 
«lition  from  which,  hud  it  been  permitted  to  n^ach  its 
j)ort  of  disemburcation,  it  was  reasonable^  to  expect  tho 
full  accomplishment  of  its  objcnits.  Unconti'ollable  cir- 
cumstan(;«'S  prevented  it.  The  problem  itself  wiiich  it 
was  intended  to  solve  remains  unaltered."  Not  (juite 
so.  Jn  the  two  years  following;,  the  principal  part  of  it 
was  solved  by  two  ollicers  (»f  the  Hudson's  Hay  Com- 
j)any.  Captain  Back  says  that  the  sejuson  was  so  l>ad 
that  tlie  Hudson's  I'ay  sliip  of  that  year  was  obliged  to 
return  without  (Mimpletiiii:  her  voya<;e.  It  is  t(»  bo 
ln)ped,  liowever,  that  after  the  inu'assin^  dilhcultii'.s  ex- 
perienced by  Sir  Kdwaivl  I'arry,  and  the  failure  of  Caj)- 
fain  <ieorj,M^  Lyon,  and  that  now  by  Sir  (Jeorf^e  j?ack, 
no  farther  att«'mpt  will  ever  be  made  wher«?  Capo  Com- 
fiM't  and  the  Fro/en  Strait  are  conciu'ued. 

Caplaiii  J^ack's  character  is  well  known,  but  a  short 


,  f 


rack's    ATTi:MrT    TO    UEACII    IlErULriE    IJAY.    313 


And 
iccr.s 


skrfch  (»f  Ills  sfM'viros   niny  not  \n'.  iniij)pn»|)ri!itf.     Ilo 
<'iit('iT(l  tli«^  iijivy  ill  l~i'~'.  ill  liis  tliirt»M'iitli  ynir,  on  hoard 
tlio  AnMhiisii.     'I'h(5  t'ullowiiij;  y«'ar  ho  luui  iniicli  Ixnit- 
servico  on  tlio  coast  of  Spain  ;  on  on«^  occiision  he  wiis 
in  till-  Iiiiu'h,  wliich  was  captiii't'd,  l)iif   not   until   lilU'cti 
iiK-n  o\it   of  ('i;^litLM'n  wiTo  killed  or  nioitnlly  wcjuiidcd. 
Hack  was  sent  a  prisonor  to  X'^cniun.     On  liis  ndraso 
in  1H14  ho  joiinMl  tln^  Akhar,  whidi  was  sont  to   tlio 
Noi'th  Anjcrican  station,  and  on  ('(nniny;  lujinc,  rocoivcd 
tlu^    Hag  of   Sir   Hyani    Martin,  and   was    sent   to   th(» 
.Scheldt.     Jn  Ir^K't  lio  passed  liis  exainination,  and  vrn^ 
J4)p((inted  Admiralty  inidshipnian   of  the  liulwark,  and 
in  Mis  A(hiiiralty  inidshipiuan  of  the  Ticnt,  und.er  tlio 
eoiiunand  of  Lieutenant  Franklin.     '^Dui  ♦'ollowing  year 
Im  a^ain  joineii  liis  friend  Lieutenant  l-'ranklin,  who  was 
ahout  to  proceed  to  the  roast   of  the  I'olar  Sea,  whero 
his  chanu'ter  for  talent,  activity,  and  extM'tioa  was  fully 
e.stablished,  and  his  humariity  displayed   by  saving  tho 
lives  of  the  whole:  party,  at  the  expense  of  great  per- 
sonal SI.  fVering.     On  his  return  h«^  was  promoted  to  th«» 
rank  of  lieutenant,  joined  tlie  Sea-horse,  and  was  sontta 
(libraltar,  then  to  the  West  Indies,  liernuida.  and  Lis- 
Imhi  ;  frt)ni  the  last  lie  returned  to  join  his  friend  Frank- 
lin, as   lieutenant    on   his    second    exptidition,  in  1H-J5; 
(^anu!  back  in  If-iJ?,  and  was  made  conunander.     JJeing 
abroad  for  the  recovery  of  his  health,  and  haviiig  leanuMl 
tliat  ('.ptain  Koss  and  his  nephew  had  not  been  heard 
of,  iit^  returned   home,  and  by  his  own   exertions,  and 
the  reconuiiendation  of  the  Jioyal  (Jeogjaphical  Society 
lo  Jjord  (ioderich,  was  appointcnl   to  proceeil   thro')  Ji 
North  America  to  the  eastei'ii  port'on  ef  the  coast  of 
tlie  I'olar  Sea.     'J'he  abstract  of  his  journal  has  been  de- 
scribed.   lUi  returned  in  18135,  and  was  promoted  to  th(» 
rank  of  captain.     In  IS'M)  iho  Admiralty  (U'cided  tliat  ati 
exptMlitiou  should  be  s(Mit  tc  Wager  Kiver  or  Kepulso 
liay,  and  Hack,  as  we  have  just  seen,  was  appointed  to 
the  command  of  11.  M.  S.  Terror;  and  on  his  return 
tVom  this  disastrous  voyago  ho  received  tho  houorof 
kniglilhood. 


i  \. 


344 


ARCTIC    VOYAGES. 


I 


i. 
'I 

'1 


I 

1 

I 


I      . 


CHAPTER  XIV. 
MISCELLANEOUS. 

1.  Narrative  of  a  Srco/id  Voyage  in  Starch  of  a  Nor/hirrsi 
I'as.iam  ,  and  of  a  lii'sidmre  in  the  Arclie  Repiont  da- 
ring thr  r.Y/;-.«  "l!',v;!M{()-:n-:{J-MM  M\  Sir  John  I'j.-^s  C.13., 
K.S.A.,  K.C'.S.,  ySix.,  lVc,  Capiuiii  in  tlic  lioyal  Navy. 

2.  Report  from  Si'lict  Committee  on  th<  Exprdition  to  the 
Arctic  Sias,  rinnintimlcd  Ini  (\ijitain  John  Ross,  R.N. 
C)nl<Mr<l  |)y  llm  House  of  Couunous  to  \)v  priutt-Ll.  'JUth  of 
April,  t!{:{"l. 

n.  Narrative  of  the  Dinrorcrirs  on  the  North  Coaitt  of  Amer- 
ica during  the  Y>:ar6  \.\VM\-\V.).      My  Thomas  Simisun,  Ksq. 

TIavino  put  on  record  tlu^  titln  of'llu'  narrative^  of  th'iM 
sccoixl  voyum',  tonetluT  with  tho  multifarious  personal 
•lisliiK'tiotis,  iVc,  Juiy  furtlu^r  notice  of  the  "  Narrativo" 
of  ( 'aptain  John  Koss  (as  lie  is  simply  described  in  th« 
Report  of  rh«'  Se|e<'l  C'onnnittee)  will  he  dispensod  with, 
mainly  for  tho  reason  that  the  "  second  voyage"  was  w 
private  specidati(»n,  not  authorized  l»y  any  branch  iif  the 
government,  and  that  the  report  of  a  committee  of  the 
House  of  Commons  prec«'ded  its  publication  :  it  may 
therefore  bci  supposed  to  contain  the*  substance  of  the 
most  material  points  in  tlui  "  Nairative,"  and  on  tliat  ac- 
count the  only  notice  of  it  will  bo  conlinod  to  the  pro- 
ceediuj^s  of  this  committee. 

lit'sides,  the  title-|)ai^e  of  th(i  I)ook  ^iv(>s  no  encoura<ie- 
ment  for  one  to  look  into  it,  especially  one  who  was  usini; 
his  best  endeavors  to  promote  expeditions  ior  tiie  search 
t>f  a  northwest  passage,  which  Captaiti  John  Iloss  repu- 
diates, thoujih,  with  his  usual  consistency,  lie  announces 
his  book  to  be  th(^  "  Narrativ<(  of  a  \' oyni^e  in  Snirrli  of  a 
North w<'st  Passage."  And  this  he  still  aiuiounces  (iff(r 
the  followinji  (pi(>stions  and  his  answers,  on  examination 
before  the  conmiittee,  had  been  published  : 

"  Do  you  conceive  tliat  any  fartlier  ntlenipl  to  discover  the 
Northwest  I'iLssage  would  i»e  attended  with  t,'i'eat  daager?" 
Captain  Uuss  says,  "  1  ilo." 


'.  b 


f\ 


\o  r/Ii  jrrst 
e'oiiK  (hi- 

I.SS,C.li., 

ivy. 

on  to  thu 
>ss,  R.S. 
i.  '^fUli  of 

/)/  Amrr- 
»SON,  Vm\. 

,'{'  of"  tlii^* 

personal 

anativo" 

i>(l  in  tho 

sod  with, 

e"  WHS  )i 

ell  of  tho 

•0  of  rho 

;   it  may 

'C  of  tlio 

I  that  ac- 

tlio   \)YU- 


lio  si'urch 
i»ss  ivpu- 
iinoniircs 
uircJt  of  II 
|cos  after 
lUiitiation 


■r  tlio 


|i('(IV( 


MISCELLANEOUS. 


3t5 


"  And  if  puccpssful,  would  it  bo  utteudrd  with  any  pubUo 
bonclit  ? 

'•  I  li(.'lii'v«^  it  would  1k'  ntfrrh/  usrlcus.''' 

A  fai'tiuM*  question  niiiiht  lioro  proporly  onouj^h  havo, 
boon  put,  but  was  not  :  '*  Thou  why  did  you  },'o  in  soarcli 
of  a  tliinj^  so  utterly  usolcss,  and  attended  with  so  iiuu-h 
daiiiior  .'"  And  now  (havinji  assitiuod  r<msons  for  not; 
ineddlinir  with  tho  "  Narmtivo")  to  j; -ocood.  It  is  not, 
tlu<  business  of  any  onc^  to  search  into  tho  real  objtH^t  that 
could  have  induced  a  captain  of  the  navy  totak(^  tln^  coni- 
niand  of  a  merchant  ship,  without  a  coinniission,  without 
ofliciul  instructions,  and  witliout  any  autiiority  but  such 
as  is  friven  to  thei  skipper  of  a  trading  vess»;l,  or  to  in- 
quire into  the  motives  that  could  actuate  a  wealthy  spir- 
it-distiller to  supply  L*  1 7,001  >  for  tho  out  lit  of  tlm  said 
vessel.  It  may  jXMhaps,  at  first,  hav(»  worn  tho  aj)- 
pearancn,  from  the  profoimd  secrecy  with  which  it  wha 
(lesir(ul  by  tlui  contributor  to  bc^  conduct«'d,  of  havin<; 
ori<;iiiat<Ml  in  tho  prospect  of  bein<i  a  promisiii;^  specula- 
tion ;  and  so  indeed  it  ttirneij  out,  notwiihstandinij;  tho 
most  discourajiin^  outset,  and  the  distressing  circumstan- 
ces that  attendiMl  tli(^  execution  of  tho  voyajio  ;  for  it 
was  entirely  owing  to  the  latter  that  1\hi  projected*  of  it 
received  a  grant  «)f  money  beyond  his  outlay,  and  tho 
|)r(»])rietor,  if  he  may  bo  so  called,  receiv(«l  for  tho  mon- 
ey he  ndvanced  tlu^  grant  of  a  distinguished  honor:  thus 
it  is  to  i>e  hoped  that  tho  expcM-tations  of  both  have  Ixmmi 
satisfied;  r>or  will  they  bo  considercid  by  ar)y  one  as  mis- 
phced,  the  one  l)eing  a  remuneration  for  his  long  suller- 
ings  and  aiixieties,  the  other  for  liis  disinterested  and 
numiticont  giMKO'osity. 

'^riie  history  of  tho  undertaking  i.s  a  short  one,  and  told 
by  tlu^  parties  tlKMUselves  to  tho  committee  mov«id  for 
by  Mr.  ('utier  Fergusson,  a  Scotch  Uiomber  of  Parlia- 
ment, tim  obj(>ct  Iw'ieg  to  ol)tain  for  (.'aptaiu  lloss  tluj 
sum  of  £5000  as  a  compensation  for  tho  expenses  in- 
curred f)y  him,  aniounting  to  betwei^n  C'JOOO  and  C.';000, 
anil  in  consideration,  it  may  bo  suppo>od,  of  hiv,  sulfer- 
ings  :  a  sum  wliich  would  at  once  ha^o  been  awarded  by 
tlie  Houses  of  Commons,  an*!  thus  liavo  spared  a  great 
deid  of  nonsense  in  the  ccMumilleo,  as  will  bo  seen  in  tho 
few  extracts  that  will  Ijero  bo  produced.     Wo  have, 


f 


(. 


31G 


AACTIC    VOYAGES. 


»l 


'    '    '        M 


I 


( 


!■' 


'■  i 


1,  ■ 


>f 


) 


first,  tlin  liistory  of  tlio  ex|K)(litJon,  which  is  doubtless 
th«!  true  (»ii«5. 

Ciiptuiii  Koss  cxninirif'd  : 

"  Wliaf  w.'w  tho  iiiduconient  to  you  to  imdortako  this  last 
t'X])«'(liti()ii  7 

"  Wlif'ii  his  niiij«'Hty  lK'(%iin(>  lord-lii^'h-adiiiiral  I  Sf.-nt  in 
my  propositions,  and  afterward  apiiii  to  Lord  Mclviilf,  wlicti 
ho  l»c(ain(>  ayain  first  lord  of  tht;  Admiralty:  1  n-ceived  an 
uiiHvvcr  that  they  did  not  inti'nd  to  pursuo  -t  any  luoro. 

"  What  was  tho  cos*  of  th»^  expedition? 

"  Tlio  cost  of  tho  expedition  was  £17,000  to  Mr.  Booth 
and  .£:H)()0  to  mo. 

"  Did  your  men  express  themselves  satisfied  with  what  had 
been  done  to  them  i>y  the  Admiralty  ? 

"  Kvery  ono  of  them;  they  all  rejoiced  that  tho  Admiralty 
liad  heliaved  so  well  to  them."  [The  Admiralty  f^'avo  thein 
iloidde  fidl-})ay  till  they  abandoned  tho  ship,  and  full  pay  af- 
terward, in  all  £45IJ0.] 

Mr.  Felix  Booth  oxainined  : 

"  I'erhaps  you  will  have  no  objeetion  to  state  the  circum- 
stances wliieh  induced  you  first  to  undertake  tho  charge  of 
the  enterjiris(!  which  Cai)tain  Ross  commanded  .' 

"  Not  in  the  li-ast.  1  had  known  Captain  Ross  for  Romo 
years,  and  I  luidertook  it  for  tho  credit  of  the  country  and  to 
s"rve  Captain  Ross,  thinkini:;  that  ho  wiis  slif.'ht<;d  in  his  for- 
mer expedition ;  thut  there  was  a  cloud  hanpng  over  him,  ami 
tliat  ho  was  anxious  of  an  opportunity  of  going  out  again.  I 
felt  interested  that  all  discovt^ries  should  be  made  by  our 
countrymen.  He  said  ho  should  very  much  like  to  go  out 
again,  and  thought  he  could  do  it  at  a  small  expense.  1  said, 
'  Well,  then,  put  Jown,  and  let  me  see  what  you  call  a  small 
expense.'  He  afterward  brought  me  a  [taper,  making  it  about 
£10,000.  I  said,  'Well,  I  should  have  no  object'on  to  ad- 
vance £10,000,  if  that  would  b»>  tho  utmost  sum  rerjuired  ;' 
Init  I  said,  '  I  will  not  engag<*  in  it,  because  there  is  £~0,0!H) 
reward  for  any  person  who  shall  discover  the  jjossago,  and  it 
would  look  very  much  as  though  I  had  an  object  in  view.' 

"  About  a  twelvemonth  alter  he  camo  to  me,  and  said, 
'  Now  it  is  all  over;  tho  rewanl  is  don<!  away  witli.'  I  then 
said  I  was  glud  of  it,  and  if  he  wanted  assistance  I  was  will- 
ing to  give  it;  he  was  amiizingly  delighted:  on  whii  h  1  told 
him,  '  I  will  assist  you,  but  remember  it  must  be  m  the  ut- 
most confidence,  and  I  will  not  do  any  thing  that  is  inimical  to 
government.' 

"  In  the  event  of  Parliament  voting  any  money  to  Captain 
Ross,  have  you  any  expectation  of  receiving  any  imrtion  ot  it  \ 


% 


loubtloss 


)  this  lust 

I  sent  ill 
llr,  wlicti 
reived  iiii 
)re. 

rlr.  Booth 

wlml  had 

Adininilty 
^'iive  tht'in 
nil  pay  al- 
io circuin- 
chargo  of 

i  for  sonio 
itry  and  to 
in  hi.s  for- 
lT  him,  ami 
t  again,     i 
Jo  by  our 
to  go  out 
io.     1  sai»l, 
all  a  sinali 
;i)g  It  about 
ti'on  to  ad- 
required  ;' 
is  £--20,000 
;age,  and  it 
n  view.' 
,  and  said. 
I  then 
I  was  will- 
hii  h  1  told 
ill  thf!  ut- 
iuimieal  to 

to  Capita  ill 
irtion  ot  it  f 


MISCELLANEOUS. 


347 


"  Cerlaiiily  not. 

"  Voiir  object  in  making  tills  muiiillcent  sarrifiee  of  privato 
fortune  was  .solely  for  the  iMlvancement  of  tlu-  iionor  of  tlio 
country,  the  interest  of  science,  and  to  gratify  the  feelings  of 
a  frienil  / 

*'  Trecisely;  that  is  the  truth." 

Tiui.s  far  (Hery  thiiiji  uppoars  to  Imvo  hnen  condurted 
with  f^reut  lib«^nility  on  ono  side,  and  witli  a  proper  feel- 
ins  <>"  tho  other.  Jf,  as  Mr.  iiooth  states,  (.'a|)taiii  Hoss 
lelt  a  cloud  was  hang;infi;  over  him  on  account  of  ill-na- 
tured reports,  and,  nioreovor,  felt  liiinself  slighted,  lio 
certainly  took  the  most  proper  metliod  of  silencing  them, 
hy  going  out  once  more  to  the  same  spot  where  he  hud 
nti(h)ijbledly  failed  on  the  former  expedition  ;  hut  tho 
slight  ho  received  must  b»<  imaginary,  for  ho  was  pro- 
nu)»ed  to  the  rank  of  captain  immediately  after  his  re- 
turn irom  a  low  months'  voyaj;o  of  pleasure,  for  so  it 
may  \m  called.  Captain  Ross  has  since  endeavored  to 
expiate  the  fault  imputed  to  him  by  a  second  expedition, 
though  a  private  one,  in  which,  however,  he  has  com- 
mitted some  grave  g^ographical  errors,  and  made  somo 
other  very  absurd  observations,  into  which  ho  was  incau- 
tiously led  by  injudicious  and  not  very  appropriate  (|ues- 
tions  ofthe  committee. 

The  money  being  j)romptly  finllicoming,  a  ship  called 
th(!  Victory  was  jjurchased,  and  fitted  out  with  steam-en- 
gine and  paddle-wlu'ols,  which  turned  out,  as  Koss,  pro- 
fessing to  be  a  good  nu'chanic,  ought  to  have  fon'seen,  a 
piM'petual  and  harassing  encumbrance.  'rh(>  manning  of 
this  Vi!ssel  consisted  of  himself.  Commander  Janu's  Ross, 
Mr.  M'Diarmid,  surgeon,  Mr.  '^i'hom,  piuser,  and  a  crew 
of  nineteen  men,  niaking  in  all  twenty-three  persons. 
They  left  Kngland  in  Tune,  1*^09,  reached  Davis's  Strait 
in  .lidy,  and  Lancaster  Sound  in  August;  found  no  im- 
pediment in  proceeding  to  the  western  side  of  Prince 
Regent's  InU^t,  and  from  that  side  t(»  tho  beach  whero 
the  Fuiy  was  wn^ckecl,  but  no  appearance  of  tlu^  vessel, 
having  either  gone  tti  pieces  «»r  gom^  to  the  bottom.  'JMie 
tent-poles,  however,  were  still  standing,  and  vast  heaps 
of  casks,  cases,  and  canisters  Avere  observed  to  l)e  piled 
uj) :  and,  on  landing,  all  found  to  l)«^  entire,  'i'lie  \'ic- 
toiy  was  therefore  moored,  in  order  to  put  on  board  h(?r 
/IS  much  bread,  (lour,  wine,  spirits,  sugar,  cocoa.  &c., 


(  I 


i 


I  1  \ 


■) 


f 


n 


!ll! 


M 
■» 


i 


I    11. 


U" 

i 


318 


ARCTIC   VOYAGES. 


as  slio  could  stow,  Jiftor  wliicli  tlio  lionp  is  said  to  linvo 
htii'u  scjircj^y  diminislKMl.  'I'lioro  is  soiim  roiison  to  hc- 
liovo  that  this  precious  deposit  of  stores  was  one  parent 
causo  ot"  Moss  liaviiij;  tal\on  this  route,  thouj^li  he  told  thc^ 
coinniittee  it  was  in  seanii  of  what  had  been  af^itated  tho 
\..st  "JOO  years,  and  also  that  the  object  was  to  decido 
whether  th»!re  was  that  j)assji<;o,  to  which  (Japtains  Par- 
ry and  Franklin  iiad  devoted  their  attention.  IJut  Ikj 
ineorover  told  the  conimittee,  "  I  should  not  have  hecMi 
justifii'd  in  ^oiuji;  if  I  had  not  known  tliat  tlio  stores  of 
the  Fuiy  woro  in  Prince  Re<font's  Inlet."  lie  knew 
of  what  th(^y  consistf^l  from  l*arry,  and  niif^ht,  perhaps, 
have  been  in  possession  of  an  invoict^  of  the  whole, 
ojuountinf^,  it  is  said,  to  throe  years'  consumption. 

JJy  the  end  of  September  tlio  Victory  reached  a  har- 
bor on  the  southeast  corner  of  the  land  which  she  had 
been  coasting:;,  and  to  which,  out  of  j^ratitudo,  floss  gavo 
the  name  of  Boothia ;  but  the  northern  [)art  of  this  coast, 
for  about  a  hundred  miles,  had  been  named  by  (Japtaiu 
Parry  North  Somerset,  and  it  was  about  two  hundred 
more  to  th«5  harbor,  to  which  was  givtui  the  name  of 
Fd/.r.  II(M"e  the  Victory  was  frozen  uj)  for  the  winter, 
and  remained  fast  hound  up  just  twelve  months. 

'J^his  is  all  stat«'d  before  the  conunittee,  a  portion  of 
whose  ])roce(Mliniis  follows.  }?ut,  in  the  first  place,  it 
may  l>t^  ri^ht  to  point  out  that  the  committee,  in  their 
report,  have  been  j^rossly  misled  in  statinj:,  amonj^  \ho 
^I'eat  public  services  which  Ross  has  pci'lbi'med,  "tlie 
demonstration  that  one  |)assage,  which  had  been  consid- 
ere(l  by  preceding  navigators  to  be  one  of  the  most  like- 
ly to  k'ad  from  the  Atlantic  to  the  Pacilic  ( )cean,  dix^s 
not  twist. "^  Now  what  was  this  demonstration  ?  They 
liad  asked  him  if  he  conceived  he  had  asciM'tained  the 
fact  tJuit  no  practical)l(>  conujiunication  existed  between 
the  Atlantic  and  Pacilic  Ocean,  and  he  replies,  "Posi- 
tively to  the  soutliward  of  the  74th  degn^o  :"  and  he  far- 
ther takes  occasion  to  tell  them,  "  \V^)  established  L(<o- 
pold's  Island  to  be  the  northeast  point  of  Anmrica:"  in 
other  words,  no  conmumication  exists  between  the  west- 
ern and  the  eastern  seas  to  the  southward  of  that  point; 
and  his  demonstration,  ur  positive  proof,  is  thus  brought 
uut. 


,f^'4 


to  hnvo 
m  to  1)0- 
110  firoat 

told  tlio 
jitod  tho 
0  (locido 
lin.s  Piir- 

IJut  lio 
wo  boon 
stores  of 
lo  know 
porluips, 
)  wholo, 
on. 
3d  a  Imr- 

slio  had 
Loss  gavo 
liis  coast, 

Captain 

hundrod 
nanio  of 
o  wintor, 

• 

ortion  of 
place,  it 

in  tlioii* 

iionjL:;  tho 

od,  "tlio 

n  consid- 

nost  liUo- 

ran,  does 

Thoy 

mod  iho 

hotwoon 

'  Posi- 

il  ho  far- 

i(m1  L((o- 

rita :"  in 

ho  \V(<st- 

at  j)()int ; 

Ijrought 


MIrfClJLLANEOUri. 


319 


Captain  Ross  oxaniincd  : 

"  Did  you  olwrrvo  llm  diflcp'rirc  iij  llio  ultitudo  of  ibo  two 
hciis  rust  uiid  vvcst  of  litMjlliiu  I't'lix  / 

"  Y<s. 

"  W'liat  was  tln'  ditrfrcricc  ? 

**  Tilt!  dilhTfiici'  is  tiiirtffii  H'ct. 

"  Ipoii  tlio  supposition  that  tin.'  laud  is  continuous  north- 
ward iVoiii  thi;  7  Mil  dci^rci'  to  the  I'tilc,  should  you  expect  ti) 
lind  tliJit  ditlcrcncc  of  altitude  in  the  seas  ? 

"  I  should  certainly,  froui  the  rotative  motion  of  the  earth." 

Tho  loarnod  nionihor  who  |)nt  tiioso  rpiostions  .seems 
not  lo  havo  been  satisfied  with  tho  replies  wlTudi  he  had 
rei.-eivod  from  Captain  Ross,  for  on  u  third  examination 
lio  r(itnrns  to  tho  charge  : 

"  You  stated,  among  the  other  rea.sons  you  pave,  that  tliero 
wds  no  northwest  pa.s.sage  practicahli; ;  that  there  was  a  dif- 
fereiict!  in  the  altitude  of  the  two  s(jiis  east  and  west  of  the 
isthmus  which  unites  Boothia  with  the  continent  of  America? 

"  Yes;  I  wiis  the  only  olHcer  there;  Commander  llo.-is  had 
no  opportunity  <»f  a.s(t!rtaining  it;  it  was  while  he  was  (tn 
other  services:  it  was  when  I  went  with  tin;  j)rovisions  to 
him  I  a.>*ct>rtained  that;  in  two  years,  in  June,  1D30,  and  the 
end  of  May,  l!i:3l. 

"  The  observations  made  at  two  ditfereut  times  both  led 
you  to  the  .same  result? 

"  Yes. 

"  Have  you  any  doubt  ujmn  that? 

"  Mot  at  all ;  I  measured  it  with  the  theodolite  in  tho  usual 
way;  the  process  becomes  v«'ry  simple,  and  incapable  uf  er- 
ror t(»  thosi'  who  nndcrsldiul  it. 

"There  is  a  ditference,  is  there  not,  in  the  altitude  of  the 
Pacific  and  Atlantic  Oceans  on  the  east  and  west  sides  of  tho 
Isthmus  of  Darieii? 

"  1  have  heard  there  is,  find  the  Red  St^a  and  the  Mediter- 
ranean alst);  there  is  eight  feet  rise  and  fall  of  tide  on  those 
ist/iiinisis,  and  only  fourteen  inches  on  the  west  side;  I  tried 
that  at  the  time;  1  broke  a  hole  in  the  ice  for  the  purpose." 

Captain  Ross  nuist  hero  have  been  sadly  bewildered, 
wliich  caused  him  to  talk  unintelligible  nonsense.  Tlio 
imnnber  who  put  tlio  question  did  not  ask  for  explana- 
tion, but  for  a  simple  fact,  lie  appeared,  indeed,  to  bo 
Jiimsolf  somewhat  in  tho  dark.  Had  ho  considtod  hi.s 
Arrowsmitli,  he.  would  liavo  foutid  tliat  tho  istlunus  of 
JJarion  has  neither  cant  nor  ttxst  sides — they  an?  north 


,1^ 


i 


f 


il 

it 


fl 


i 


i 


iU 


:,'^'i, 


..M 


'I 


I 


S5() 


ARCTIC    VUYAGKrf. 


and  sfiutli.  Tliosf  istliniusfs  in  t1i(^  Ixrd  S(>h  nrid  iNTj'il- 
itrrniiicait  nr<!  iittrrly  iiiiintrlll^ihlo  ;  and  tiiosit  of  linoth- 
iu  and  DiiriiMi  iirit  riilcnhitrd  to  put  oiio  in  mind  ol'  tlio 
rivet's  (if  MixnMctiith  and  .MacfMlon.  'rinTcisan  Istliinns 
of  Darirn  and  an  Istliinns  of  J'oothia,  "and  tln-n^  is  tliir- 
(t  I  n  tct't  water  at  hotli;'"  tim  thirtrcn  feet  apprafs  vrry 
iniich  toliavn  hcj'ii  hnintwcd  tVoni  IMr.  Lloyd's  "  Daricn." 
'JMm  oxaininor  wtiuld  s(?oiii  not  yet  to  havo  bci-n  satislird 
%vitli  tho  process  of  tho  tluMidolito  and  the  hole  in  the 
ice;  he  should  iiave  incpiired  what  was  tln^  result  ot'th*^ 
liohs  <lid  it,  like  ono  of  tho  (Jeysers  of  Iceland,  throw 
up  a  jet  of  thirteen  feet,  not  of  hot,  hut  salt  water  ? 
( 'oinuiander  .lames  lioss  was  asked, 

"  Are  ynu  awiire  of  the  tiu-t,  tliril  the  two  Hen**  riirlit  and 
left  of  the  isthmus  wiiirli  coruiects  Hootliia  witli  the  cnatineut 
of  Arnericii  are  of  different  altitudes  / 

"  No,  1  am  not ;  nor  had  we  the  means  of  nscertalning  the 
fact  with  accuracy;  it  would  take  at  least  two  or  thre*-  monlliH 
to  ascertain  it  with  the  accuracy  such  an  ohservatioa  would 
re(|uire. 

"  Vou  have  no  rcjison  to  su))pose  such  a  thiiifr? 

"None  whatever.  No;  /  ncrcr  heard  of  il  (ill  (his  mo- 
vunf. 

"  II.'is  Captain  lloss  never  tcdd  you  that  he  had  luscertained 
that  to  he  the  fact? 

"  (',i|»tain  lioss  may  have  n)ade  ol)servati(»ns  wliich  liave 
Hatislifd  his  mind;  hut  I  douht  whether  he  can  liave  made 
ohservations  that  would  satisfy  the  minds  of  those  wli(»  may 
invcsti^'ate  the  matter." 

So  much  for  Captain  Koss's  ^^  ihnionstratinn'^  of  tlie 
water-huilt  wall,  l;]  feet  hinh,  oxtendinj;  from  liootli- 
ia  to  the  North  PoU\  and  his  joining;  Hoothia  to  North 
Anu'rica;  yet  lu!  satisfied  the  coiimiittee,  as  npjXMirs  by 
tlieir  rej)ort,  that  a  passage  south  of  IJoothia  does  not  ex- 
is{.  Bui  tho  coimnittcM^  and  Koss  also  shall  he  satisfied, 
before  this  chapter  closes,  that  not  only  is  there  no  such 
junction,  hut  that  they  are  completely  divided  by  a  navi- 
gable strait,  ten  miles  wi(hi  and  upward,  leading  past 
I  Jack's  Estuary  and  into  the  fjulf,  of  which  tlie  proptu* 
nanu)  is  Akkoolee,  not  IJoothia;  and,  moreover,  that  tho 
two  seas  lh)W  as  freely  into  each  other  as  Lancaster 
Sound  does  int(>  the  I'olar  Sea,  and  are,  of  course,  on  the 
Bumo  lovel. 


? 


I 


'h'J 


^ 


IVIIHCKLLAXEUUs!. 


351 


and  MimI- 

of   litHttll- 

tid  of  llid 
I  Jstliitiiis 
n*  is  thir- 
u'lirs  very 
Daririi." 
n  Hutislit'd 
)l<'  ill  tliii 
lilt  (it'tiu^ 
ul,  throw 
tor  ] 

rij;lit  mid 
■  coiitiricnl 

aiiiiiig  tlio 
no  nioiitlis 
ion  would 


U  this  mo- 

.si'ertiiint'd 

liirh  liavo 

iiiv»'  niiido 

who  may 

i"  of  the 
11  ]}()()tii- 
to  North 
)j)(Mirs  hy 
1CS  not  ex- 
sntistiod, 
vi  no  such 
by  a  nuvi- 
diii^  j)}ist 
le  propter 
%  that  tiio 
[jaucustor 
so.  on  the 


Next  iiftor  this  hu'id  (h'monstration,  if  ronmiiis  to  ho 
rxpIniiH'd  hy  what  process  he  utterly  deMiolisiies  the 
Northwest  i'assaiie.  It  has  already  heen  noticed  that 
('a|>lain  Koss  conceivt'il  any  farther  atttniipts  to  discover 
the  N(»rthw»'sf  j*assai:c  would  he  very  daiigt'n)us,  and,  if 
successful,  would  ht;  utterly  useless. 

Ivoss  was  asked  : 

"The  indications  that  were  rchcd  upon  in  tlu;  l»e^iruiin{» 
of  tlicso  voya,i.'e.s  of  dis(!overy,  as  t<»  leailiiii,'  to  tlie  cunclusiou 
that  a  passage  mi^'ht  he  fotnid,  have  f(tt;illv  iiiilud  \ 

"  Tliey  hav((  heen  totally  disproved." 

Coniinaii(hu"  James  Koss  : 

"  What  was  your  expi-ritjiice  in  former  voyages? 

"  1  had  h»M'n  in  (ive  former  expeditions,  aiul  had  heen  en- 
gn^'ed  ahont  tt.-n  yi-ars  in  those  seas. 

"  Did  you,  in  fact,  accompany  all  the  preceding  .\rctic  ox- 
2>oditions  hciit  to  those  seas  on  discovery  ? 

"  I  accompanied  all  tlio  rocent  expeilitions  sent  to  those 
seas  on  disc(n<;ry. 

"  On  how  many  of  them  had  CapUiin  Ross  lioen? 

"  Only  on  the  first. 

"  How  many  summers  have  you  j)assod  on  those  seas? 

''  Fourte»Mi  Hiunmerrt,  and  eiiiht  winters. 

"  You  do  not  think  tin;  voyage  has  furnished  any  conclusion 
against  the  existence  of  a  northwest  pjissage  \ 

*'  No;  it  has  injule  it  still  inort»  certain  than  it  was  heforo 
that  a  northwest  passage  must  exist. 

*'  Upon  what  ohservations  made  in  the  last  voyage  do  you 
ground  that  o[»inion  ? 

"  From  the  additional  portion  of  the  outline  of  the  ciMiti- 
nent  of  America  (explored  on  this  occasion,  on  the  eastern 
coast  of  Am<!ri(;a,  and  tlit?  western  coast  of  lioothia. 

"  Do  you  helieve  that  il  would  he  practicahle  to  go  through 
that  northwestern  passage  ? 

"There  is  no  cpiestion  that  it  wouhl  he  much  more  easy 
now  that  we  are  acijuainted  with  the  nature  of  the  formation 
of  the  continent  of  America." 

Captain  Francis  lieaufort  examined  : 

"  Has  the  voyage  undertaken  hy  Captain  Ross,  in  your 
opinion,  heen  etpial  in  importance,  with  respect  to  the  (pies- 
tion  of  the  northwest  passage,  with  previous  voyages  under- 
taken for  th(!  purpose  cd'  ascertaining  it  .' 

"  I  do  not  know  how  to  shape  an  answer  to  that  question, 
unless  hy  mciisiu'iiig  the  numher  of  miles  discovered  in  each 
voyage. 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-S) 


t<. 


'•Li  '  M:> 


'^^   ^  A  ^ 


1.0    If  1°  iiii 


i.l 


la  IM    ;j]!I2.2 


1^ 


IIHO 


2.0 


1.8 


1-25      1.4    1  1.6 

1 

■« 6"     »• 

if 


ll 


s 


w 


'^ 


^l 


e". 


e:. 


o 


/ 


/A 


Photographic 

Sciences 
Corporation 


# 


^ 


V 


:\ 


\ 


% 


.V 


<^ 


23  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  14580 

(716)  873-4503 


IP 


t  % 


■  ih  :> 


%     > 


•  ,     .     •  r 


352 


ARCTIC    VOYAGES. 


n 


I 


f: 


"  Do  yoii  consider  that  tlio  clof»ijif]j  up  of  rriuce  Ri'ircnt'.s 
Inlf'l  iiJirrows  tlic  raiigo  within  wiiich  a  uortliwest  jia-ssayo 
may  he  IduikI  within  a  short  compass  / 

"  It  only  narrows  it  l)y  one  of  the  openings. 

"  Docs  it  iijirrow  tlie  opening  to  something  above  74  de- 
grees nortli  latitu(l<^  ? 

"  There  are  several  opcniings  from  tht^  end  of  Lancaster 
kSoiiud.  rrinc(>  Regent's  Inlet  was  one  of  them:  ])y  closing 
that,  h(?  has  removed  one  (jf  tiie  prol.>:.l)I<'  means  of  getting  to 
the  westward ;  but  there  are  three  still  open. 

"  Will  you  specify  their  njinies  ? 

"  One  is  going  out  l)y  the  Wellington  Channel  to  the  north- 
wesf ;  another  ])roeeeding  by  Melville  Island;  and  tin-  tliiid 
would  be  by  getting  to  tin;  southwest  after  ])assing  tlie  c;ipe, 
which  Cajitain  Ross  supposes  [asserts]  to  I)e  the  noi'thern  ex- 
treme of  America,  toward  the  shore  laid  down  by  Franklin 
and  Ricliardson. 

**  Do  you  consider  tbat  the  closing  of  the  most  southerly 
outlet  closes  that  supposed  to  be  most  likely  to  be  jiracticable? 

"No;  for  that  is  not  the  route  I  should  have  taken  if  em- 
ploy(id  on  that  service." 

Nothinj^  farther  need  be  said  on  Captain  Ross's  opin- 
ions regarding  a  northwest  passage  ;  but  as  Connnand«'r 
James  Koss  is  tlio  officer  who  did  all  thiit  was  done,  or 
<'()uld  l)(5  done,  and  appears  not  to  have  been  treated  on 
this  committee  as  he  ought  to  have  been,  it  may  bo 
proper  to  state,  briefly,  an  outline  of  what  he  did  on  this 
voyage,  in  addition  to  wliat  has  been  said  of  him  at  tlio 
conclusion  of  J*arry's  "  Polar  Voyage." 

The  first  year  after  reaching  Felix  Harbor,  Com- 
mander Ross  made  five  or  six  journeys  from  tho  ship, 
of  ahout  a  month  to  ten  days  or  a  fortnight  each.  On 
tho  first  lio  discovered  and  crossed  the  Isthmus  of 
]Jo()thia,  which  joins  it  to  a  peninsula.  On  a  future 
journey  he  ascertained  it  to  bo  fifteen  miles  in  width, 
wiili  a  lake  in  the  center,  and  five  miles  of  land.  To  a 
question  of  the  committee  as  to  what  part  he  took  in  tho 
g(H)graphical  discoveries  made,  his  reply  was,  "  Tho 
wholes  extent  of  geographical  discovery  is  perhaps  be- 
tween GOO  and  700  miles  of  new  land;  out  of  that  prob- 
ably ahout  2G0  miles  wefe  discovered  in  the  ship  as  she 
])roceeded  down  the  coast ;  the  remaining  400  or  500 
were  discovered  by  myself,  witii  parties  of  three  or 
lour   men   deluched  IVom   tho   ship — expeditious   that 


it 


ice  R(>i:('iif'rf 

jovc  74  de- 

f  Lanca^tor 
;  by  rldsiri^ 
)t'  getting  to 


(t  the  iinrtli- 
1(1  the  third 
ig  tlie  CMpe, 
loi'theni  e.\- 
jy  Franklin 

it  pontherly 
iractical)le? 
ikeu  il"  eui- 

oss's  opin- 
oniinainl«'r 
IS  done,  or 
treated  on 
it  may  bo 
did  on  this 
lim  at  tlio 

3or,  Coni- 
tlio  ship, 
each.  On 
thnms  of 
;  a  future 
I  in  widtli, 
nd.  To  a 
ook  in  the 
as,  "The 
•rhaps  bo- 
that  proh- 
liip  as  she 
00  or  500 
threo  or 
tiuus   that 


>Hf;CLLLA\E0i;t5. 


353 


wore  severally  jilanned  and  conducted  by  nivseif."     IJo 
also  states,  in  rei)ly  to  farther  questions,  that  observa- 
tions HI  geology,  natural  history,  and  botanv,  with  the 
collecting  of  specimens,  wer^^  miide  by  liimself,  he  bein<r 
the  only  person  who  at  all  understood  tlu^  nature  of 
thoso  subjects.     He  is  then  ask.-d  if  he  personally  made 
the  observations  from  wdiich  lie   infei-red  that  ho  had 
discovered  the  true  position  of  the  magnetic  jKile.     "  I 
did,"  ho  says,  "  for  two  years  previous  to  the  time  I 
v-ent  to  the  magnetic  pole.     I  was  engaged  in  observa- 
tions necessary  to  determine  its  exact  jxisition ;  havin.r 
ascertained  tliat  spot,  l  then  conducted  a  party  to  the 
point  so  determined,  and  there  1  made  a  series  of  ob- 
servations by  which  I  ascertained  that  to  be  the  exact 
position  of  the  magne'tic  pole." 

It  must  be  c-onsidered  most  ungenerous,  on  the  part 
ot  Captain  Ross,  to  detract,  as  he  (Iocs  in  his  ex"mina- 
tion,  Irom  the  merit  of  liis  ne])h."w,  who  alone  <ieserve.s 
the  credit  ot  having  fixed  the  point,  ;s  near  as  is  capable 
ot  being  done,  of  the  Western  Magnetic  Pole.     In  his 
answers  to  the  committee  he  never  once  conij-ders  Com- 
mander Ross  as  the  sole  discoverer,  but  wov.'d  makt^  it 
appear  tluit  every  thing  was  done  in  his  jn'sence,  and 
with  his  co-operation  :  thus,  for  instance,  he  says,  "  wn 
were  in  a  position  where  the  compass  had  no  power  of 
traversing— by  continuiag  our  observations  icf  arrived  at 
the  spot — rve  passed  round  it— whichever  way  ivc  passed 
It,  as  wr.  passed  round  it,  the  compass  turned  toward  it 
horizontally."     Tlie  truth,  however,  was  elicited  at  last. 

•    Vi'^Y  "^'^'•'  ^""'^'^  y^^  yourself  to  the  point  of  the  Muiniet- 
10  Pole  ? 

"  I  suppose  I  was  \\\\.\im  forty  milcx:' 
And  this,  then,  ntust  have  becm  the  distance  at  whicli 
jrc  were  walking  round  it.  The  committee  might  have 
liad  the  sagacity  to  ask  him  how  long  it  took  him  to 
walk  round  tlie  circuit  of  one  hundred  and  twenty  miles. 
They  did  ask  him  another  kind  of  question  ; 

_  *'  Uitliin  what  area  do  you  conceive  you  have  reduced  tlio 
KitiKition  ot  jt  ? 


"  Olio  luiic 


Ihe  same  question  being  put  to  Captain  Beaufort,  ho 
replies,  ''  There  can  be  no  specitic  or  i)i-ecise  point  to 
•S3  ( i  u  -^ 


i; 


yoi 


AUCTIC    VuYAGEc?. 


ii'i 


!   . 


fix  tlic  situation  of  the  Magnetic  Pole  within  a  dogreo 
or  half  a  dcgi'oo." 

It  was  a  general  belief  at  the  time,  that,  had  Captain 
Ross's  conduct  bi^fore  the  committee  been  of  a  contrary 
tendency,  the  committee  would  have  been  disposed  to 
have  roconunended  for  his  nephew,  what  he  richly  de- 
served, some  pecuniary  reward,  as  compensation  for  his 
losses,  which  amounted  to  .ii3()0  or  j£4U0.  Every  thing, 
in  fact,  in  this  ill-advised  exjjedition,  rested  on  the  talent 
and  activity  of  the  commander :  it  is  not  clear,  hideed, 
that  the  lives  of  the  wiiole  party  did  not  depend  on  him. 
The  committee  ask  him  : 

"  Had  yoii  an  opportunity  of  personal  participation  in  any 
ppv'^cific  serviro  to  tlio  expedition,  by  which  you  consider  that 
tiio  iives  of  the  people  were  preserved  ?" 

Ho  modestly  replies, 

"  I  do  not  know  whether  I  should  quite  eay  I  had  ;  but 
certainly  it  was  essentiiil  to  the  safety  of  the  people  that  I 
Blionld  leave  them  on  one  occasion.  Accompanied  by  tv\'o 
of  the  strongest  of  the  party,  I  advanced  toward  the  Fury's 
stores,  to  see  whether  they  were  there  or  not ;  hr,  had  tliey 
gone  there  witliout  iinding  the  provisions,  the  whole,  or  near- 
ly the  whole,  party  must  have  peririhed ;  but  by  my  going 
and  retiuning  with  a  supply  of  provisions,  I  enabled  them  to 
reach  the  Fury's  stores." 

Captain  Ross  should  have  been  the  last  person  to 
throw  any  impediment  in  the  way  of  remuneration  to 
his  ne})litw.  Ho  and  his  crow  were  ai  ifi  rewarded 
in  money,  and  himself  in  money  and  lU  .^onors  ;  the 
former  was  very  properly  bestowed,  for  his  boldly  en- 
gaging in  so  hazardous,  though  ill-advised  an  enterprise, 
for  th(^  sufferings  of  himself  and  party,  and  for  the  long- 
continued  anxiety,  which  nioney  can  only  poorl}^  re- 
ward :  of  the  latter  no  one  will  envy  him ;  a  few  foreign 
princes  may  think  themselves  flattered  by  having  their 
names  dotttd  along  the  coast-line  of  a  thing  called  a 
chart,  but  the  King  of  England's  family  are  not  so  easily 
captivated  by  biiits  of  this  kind.  Captain  Beaufort  says, 
*'  Captain  Ro.s  bri)Ught  to  me  a  chart  to  prejjare  for  the 
king,  whic^i  I  did,  and  returned  it  to  him  ;  and  there  is 
no  copy  of  it  left  in  the  Hydrographical  Office  :"  and 
as  Captain  Beaufort  malvos  no  description  of  it,  neither 


i 


MISCELLANEOVS. 


a55 


n  a  dogreo 

ad  Captain 
a  contrary 
disposed  to 
I  riciily  de- 
■iion  lor  his 
very  thing, 
1  the  talent 
)ar,  huleed, 
)nd  on  him. 


ation  in  any 
;ousider  tliat 


I  had  ;  hut 
eoplo  tliat  I 
lied  by  two 
i  the  Fury's 
or,  had  tliey 
lole,  or  near- 
y  my  going 
jled  them  tt) 


person  to 
neration  to 

rewarded 
onors  ;  the 

boldly  en- 
onterprise, 
)r  the  long- 
poorly  ro- 
few  foreign 
laving  their 
[ig  called  a 
ot  so  easily 
lufort  says, 
lare  for  tho 
nd  there  is 
Rice  :"  and 

it,  neither 


will  any  be  made  here;  the  less  that  is  said  of  it  the 
better.  The  honors,  howev.  j-,  have  been  carefnlly  pre- 
served, and  copied  into  a  certain  repository*  for  general 
information,  as  follow  : 

"  Ross,  Captain  Sir  Jolin,  entered  the  navv  in  17D0  ;  fifteen 
years  a  midshipman;  seven  years  a  lieiiteiiant;  seven  years 
a  commander;  became  a  post-captain  in  1818;  received  nu- 
mer()us  mark;  of  public  approbation  in  consequence  of  hia 
Arctic  Kxpedi  is;  was  made  a  Commander  of  the  Sword 
ol  Sweden;  a  jvniglit  of  the  Second  Class  of  St.  Anne  of 
I'nissia  (in  diamonds);  Second  Class  of  the  Lej^iini  of  Ib)n- 
or;  Sec(.nd  Class  of  the  Ked  Eagle  of  Prussia:  Second  Class 
of  Leopold  of  Belgium;  gold  medals  from  the  Geoirrapliical 
Society  of  London,  the  Geographical  Institute  of  TaHs.  tlio 
Royal  Societies  of  Sweden,  Austria,  Denmark,  Scc.\  the  ^n^e- 
(ifun  of  the  cities  of  London,  Liver])ool,  Bristol,  Hull,  &c  ; 
SIX  gold  snulfboxcs  from  RiLssia,  Holland,  Denmark,  Austria, 
London,  and  Baden;  a  sword  valued  at  £lUO  from  the  Pat- 
riotic Fund;  a  sword,  value  £:2()0,  from  tho  Kin-  (.f  Sweden, 
ior  service  m  the  Baltic  and  White  Sen,  &c. ;  and  nuuicrous 
other  acknowlcdgnienis  of  his  cmi.imf  services  in  th<  expedi- 
tion to  Bafhu's  Bay  in  1818,  and  his  discovery  of  ]?oothia  Fe- 
lix and  the  North  Ma,inieti(-  PoU" !  Is  now  consul  at  Stock- 
holm, to  which  ofKce  he  was  appointed  in  1838." 

Franklin,  Parry,  James  Ross,  and  Richardson,  be 
contented  with  your  simple  knighthood,  assured  that 
you  have  no  occasion  to  covet  any  of  the  numerous  hon- 
ors and  (t  ccteras  carefully  registered  in  Mr.  Dodd's  list, 
and  knowing  that  yotir  merits  are  enrolled  elsewhere. 

The  result  of  all  the  nonsense  about  islhmusrs,  the- 
odolites, and  holes  in  the  ice,  and  the  absurdities  to 
which  they  gave  rise,  have  been  completely  quashed  by 
the  ])ersevering  and  energetic  labors  of  Messrs.  Deaso 
and  Simpson,  two  otRcers  of  the  Hudson's  W-Ay  Com- 
pany :  their  extensive  discoveries  are  contained  in  a 
.small  volmne,  which  carries  with  it  the  stamp  of  truth 
and  modesty. f  These  gentlemen  luive  surveyed  the 
remainder  of  the  western  part  of  tin;  coast,' left  by 
Franklin,  from  his  Return  Beef  to  Capr  Bnrrnic;  iigain, 
from  Point  Turn-again  to  the  eastward,  as  far  as  the 

*  Dndd's  Pepriiiro,  Rartjnetnnr,  and  Knit'litncp,  fcr. 

t  Narriitive  of  tho  DiscoviTiot:  on  tlie  Nurth  Coa.-^t  of  Amrricn,  clicc'ted 
by  the  OtKcrrs  of  thi-  Hudson's  Hay  Comiianv,  duriiiir  th.'  years  Islifi- 
1B31>.     liy  Tlioniiis  triinp-on,  Ksq. 


■^F 


^ii 


f! 


hi. 


i:*: 


.'irW) 


ARPTIC    VOYAr.Efl. 


Gulf  f»r  Akkodlco  :  to  tliis  latter  ])orti()n  tlio  notice  lioro 
tak(!ii  must  he*  coiilitx'd. 

Ill  July,  1h;{!>,  tiu'v  ontcrcd  the  Coronation  (iulf  for 
t}u>  second  tiuK!  wllh  their  two  boats,  jiassod  Capo 
'rurn-aifain.  and,  tVoni  a  ])oint  on  the  continent  ot"  Amer- 
ica to  tlie  eastwaid  of 'l'urn-ai:ain.  tliey  thence  observed 
to  tlie  northward  a  larj;*!  tract  of  land,  to  which  they 
p;av(!  tho  nanu*  of  \'ictoria.  either  joinini^  with,  or  sepa- 
rated by  a  strait  from,  Wollaston  Land.  On  their  rc- 
turn  they  ti'aced  thc^  coast  of  Victoria  for  al)ont  eleven 
de<rrees  of  longitude.  From  ('ape  Alexander,  the  south- 
ern coast  of  the  Polar  Sea  trended  southernly  to  a  lai'ii;e 
bay  crowded  with  islands,  which  lliey  called  Labyi'inth 
J}ay,  opposite  to  wliich  was  Mcdbourne  Island.  Lower 
down  th((  coast,  in  latitude  5^^  \  was  Sir  (iuy  Campbr-ll's 
J>ay,  into  which  l^llice  l\iver  pourinl  its  waters — a  sti-eani 
descrilx'd  as  much  larger  than  Copper  Mine  lliver;  tho 
bordei'ini;  country  consistinj^  of  p-ee'i  tlats,  little  lakes, 
and  knotty  knolls.  This  coast  still  descended  to  the 
southward,  Oiiden  liay  beiny  the  lowest,  in  latitude  07*^ 
30',  lon-ritude  101"  1'/. 

( )n  the  Klih  of  Auyust  they  found  tho  vXmorican  coast 
trending  to  tin?  northeastward,  and  "  j)i-oceede(l  all  day 
anKMig  islands,  so  that  some  of  the  |)arty  beifan  to  ap- 
pi'chend  we  had  lost  tho  continent  altogether."  In  the 
<'V(>ninji,  however,  tln^  rajjid  rush  of  the  tide  and  the 
position  of  Hack's  River  '"left  no  longer  any  room  to 
doubt  tho  neighborhood  of  an  open  sea."  lint  Mi'. 
Simpson  says,  "I  candidly  acknowledge  that  we  wen; 
not  prei)ared  to  find  so  southerly  a  strait  leading  to  tho 
i'stuary  of  tho  Cr(>at  Fish  River  (Back's),  but  rather 
expcH'ted  Jb\st  to  double  Cape  Felix  of  Commander 
James  Ross,  toward  which  the  coast  had  been  latterly 
trending."  Their  ol)ject  iiad  been  to  ])roceed  northerly 
as  far  as  Cape  Felix,  and  they  continued  in  a  direction 
along  the  coast  which  would  have  led  them  to  it ;  but, 
on  finding  a  separation  by  their  newly-discovered  strait 
leading  to  the  eastward,  they  entered  by  doubling  the 
southern  point  of  it,  w^hieh  they  call  Geddes  ;  they  pro- 
ceeded along  that  coast,  on  a  point  of  which  Simpson 
landed,  and  found  that  to  be  Rack's  Point  Off/r.  ^'hey 
entered  the  estuary.  |)ass(Ml  Point  Pechell,  atid  ascended 


T 


li  i 


•I'-i 


Mf.SCELLANROUS. 


357 


)tice  hero 

I  Gulf  for 
sed   Ciipo 

of  Amer- 
'  oljserv(!d 
liirli  they 
,  or  sepii- 

their  re- 
nt eleven 
he  south- 
to  a  liii'ijjo 
Lahyriiith 
Lower 
'ani|)l)eir.s 
-!i  sti'eam 
Liver ;  tho 
:tle  lakes, 
:'(!  to  the 
itude  G7" 

iean  eoast 
m1  all  diiy 
;an  to  a})- 
"  In  tho 
^  and  the 
room  to 
]Jut  Mr. 
we  W(M'(j 
iig  to  the 
[\t  rather 
inniaiid(?r 
n  latterly 
uoi'therly 
direction 
)  it ;  hut, 
red  strait 
hliui^  the 
hey  pro- 
Simpson 
'.  They 
nsrorided 


soutiiernly  to  Montreal  rsland.  on  wliich  they  landrd 
near  the  spot  where  Ihick  hiid  eurnmped  ;  and  under 
the  j^uidance  of  iM'Kuy  (one  of  JJack's  men),  they  dis- 
covered amonii;  the  rocks  a  deposit  of  haijs  of  pemmican, 
chocolate,  canisters  of  ,iiunj)o\vder.  and  ])ercussion  caps. 
Tlui   pennnican  is  said  to  have   been  "  litendly  (///tr," 
and  the  chocolate   rotten.     Some   minor  articles  were 
taken  possession  of  by  the  two  leaders,  "  as  memorials 
of  our  hayinu  breakhisted  on  the   identical  spot  where 
the  tent  of  our  ^^allant,  thoui!;h  less  successful,  i)recursor 
stood  that  very  day  five;  years  before."     They  haa  thus 
det(M-mined  the  nortlun-n  limits  of  America  to  the  ivcst- 
u-anl.  as  far  as  iiack's  Estuary  ;  it  still  remained  a  ques- 
tion whether  some  part  of  J5oothia  might  not  be  united 
to  the  contiiKMit  on  the   eastf.rn  side   of  the   estuary. 
Doublinji,  therefore,  its  eastern  j)romont()ry.  they  passed 
a  point  of  tin;  continent  which  they  nanuMi  C!i])e  IJritan- 
nia,  and  another  called  Cape  Selkirk;   and  proceedintr 
toward  some  islands  in  the  (4idf  of  Akkoolee,  so  far  as  to 
satisfy  themselves  that  they  were  to  the  (eastward  of  any 
part  of  iJoothia,  they  beo;iui  to  consider  that  the  time  of 
the  year  made  their  return  expedient.    Whereupon  they 
connnenced  pr(!j)aring  their  boats  at  this  tlieir  farthrk 
advance,  and  took  tin'  same  route  back,  with  this  diller- 
ence,  that  in  passina;  Simpson's  new  strait   they  nov, 
coasted  it  on  tho  northern  side,  and  desi<,niated  the  W(>st- 
ern  enti'ance  cape,  on  that  side,  by  the  name  of  Ilerschel, 
where  they  erected  a  cairn,  with  the  date  'J'Jth  of  Au- 
gust, 1839.     The  strait  was  tln^re  ten  miles  in  width, 
and  much  more  at  the  entrance  near  to  IJack's  Estuary  ; 
at  one  place,  about  the  middle,  it  was  only  thn  ;  miles! 
and  its  depth  from  thirteen  to  sixteen  fathoms. 

Mr.  Simpson  gives  some  observations  on  the  dip  of 
the  magnetic  needle.  He  says,  when  the  Magnetic 
Pole  bore  from  them  N.  7^  E.  105  miles,  the  dip  was 
89^  29'  33"  ;  when  N.N.E.  90  miles,  it  was  89^  28'  4o"; 
and  when  olf  Cape  IJritaimia,  it  had  decreased  to  89^' 
IC  40",  "  as  might  have  been  expected  from  our  in- 
creasing distance  from  the  Magnetic  Pole." 

On  theij-  return  along  the  coast  of  America,  they 
crossed  over  to  near  Point  Back — on  the  land  of  Victo- 
ria, and  traced  that  shore  as  fai-  as  Point  l^arrv a  spiue 


%v 


358 


ARCTIC    VOYAGES. 


11 

I! 
•   I 
I 


.1^ 


of  one  hundred  and  fifty-six  googrnpliical  miles ;  but  tills 
land  extended  both  to  tiie  east  and  to  the  west  beyond 
these  two  points ;  and  they  supposed,  as  before  men- 
tioned, that  a  wide  channel  might  divide  the  latter  from 
Wollaston  Land.  Their  next  object  was  the  mouth  of 
the  Copper  Mine  River,  which  they  reached  on  the 
IGth  of  September,  "after  by  far  the  longest  voyage 
ever  performed  in  boots  on  the  Polar  Sens,  the  distance 
we  had  gone  not  being  less  than  1408  geographical 
miles." 

Their  account  of  the  whole  lino  of  the  Polar  Sea 
roast  of  North  America,  from  Icy  Cape  to  the  Gulf  of 
Akkoolee,  is  well  worth  perusing ;  but  it  is  time  that 
th(!  {)resent  volume  should  draw  to  its  close.  The  an- 
nexed ^mall  chart  contains  the  combined  discoveries  of 
Koss,  Simpson,  and  Back,  on  that  portion  of  the  North 
Coast  of  Ame/ica  opposite  to,  but  divided  from,  tho 
southern  part  of  the  Island  of  Boothia  (itself  a  portion 
only  of  North  Somerset),  which  united  must  now  take 
their  place  among  the  rrumerous  clusters  that  crowd  tho 
eastern  part  of  the  Polar  Sea,  some  of  them  to  a  dis- 
tance northerly  y  et  unknown. 

It  wiU  be  seen  by  the  chart  that  Sir  James  Ross 
thinks  it  not  improbable,  since  the  discovery  of  the  land 
seen  by  Simpson,  and  marked  on  the  chart  "  Captain 
James  Ross's  Point,"  that  the  vacant  dotted  space  be- 
tween Point  Scott  and  Cleft  Mountain  may  be  land,  as 
he  has  marked  it ;  and  also  that  the  space  between 
Cape  Smyth  and  Point  Scott  may  be  a  wide  channel, 
opening  into  the  lower  part  of  Prince  Regent's  Inlet : 
should  this  be  so,  it  will  form  the  continuation  of  his  rnvn 
strait,  through  which  not  only  a  single  ship  and  boats, 
but  whole  fleets,  may  pass.  At  the  same  time,  it  must 
be  admitted  that  conjectural  geography  is  never  safe  : 
tho  direction  of  a  coast-line,  or  the  course  of  a  river,  can 
only  be  known,  and  then  imperfectly,  to  the  distance  of 
the  farthest  point  of  sight ;  to  aiTive  at  correctness,  they 
must  be  traced. 

The  object  of  this  miscellaneous  chapter,  with  the 
small  chart,  is  to  point  out  distinctly,  and  to  correct,  the 
erroneous  impression  which  the  Report  of  a  Select 
Committee  of  the  House  of  Commons  is  calculated  to 


.  1  !<*      \ 


M'»- 


Mir^CELLANEOUd. 


es;  buttliis 

i^est  beyond 

tefore  inon- 

latter  from 

0  mouth  of 
bed  on  tlio 
^est  voyage 
he  distance 
eographical 

Polar  Sea 
he  Gulf  of 
3  time  that 
.  The  an- 
coveries  of 
'  the  North 

1  from,  the 
f  a  portion 
It  now  take 
;  crowd  the 
m  to  a  dis- 

ames  Ross 
of  the  land 
t  "  Captain 

space  be- 
be  land,  as 
e  between 
le  channel, 
(nt's  Inlet : 
of  his  mvn 

and  boats, 
lie,  it  must 
ever  safe  : 
a  river,  can 
iistance  of 
tness,  they 

,  with  the 

orrect,  the 

a  Select 

Iculated  to 


359 


c.>..vey,  foumlcl  on  the  most  absu.-d  nonsense,  given  in 
evidence  before  the  committee,  especially  that  part  ( t' 
.  fro.n  w  nd,  a  conclusion  is  drawn  that  a  passage  d  s 
not  ..r/.Mx.tween  the  bottom  of  Prince  Regent's  iX 
and  the  Polar  Sea,  whicli  has  since  been  proved  to  bo 
>vholly  mcorroct. 


THE  END. 


m^im — w 


I 


"i  ; 


1 1., 


'r 


f 

1  * 

n     f 

V    1 

;i. 


'h>, 


VALUABLE  STANDARD  PRODUCTIONS 

PLDLISHKD    nv 

HARPER  k  IJROTIIERS,  NEW  YORK. 


M'CULLOCH'S   UNIVERSAL   GAZETTEER. 
A  Dictionary   CJeographical,  Statistical,  ami  Historical, 
of  tho  vanou.s  Countries,  Natural  Objects,  &c.,   in  the 
JVor  d      By  1  R.  M'Cuiioch.     Edited  by  D,  Haskel.  A.M. 
^  vols.  8vo.     hcvcn  fine  Maps.     Sheep.     $6  50. 

A  complete  library  of  itself,  and  noressary  to  all  who  dosire  to  Do.seii. 
a  con,pfte„t  knowlcdtre  of  the  worl.i  wh.cl,  we  uA^nlTlZVdunu'" 

"lu:^i:iZrT'''r'  T^l'^r^-"  ""'^•'  -'-'-.it.H  .t  has  f:.uudaS 
111  MIS  lit)rary.—.\ri«- For^  Commercial  Advertiser. 

ihc   most  comprehensive   and  valuable  work  of  its  class  that  h-i,  nn 

reared  ,   deduced  from  the  latest  and  best  authont.es.-'Llo^i/yr.X 

II. 

BRANDE'S  DICTIONARY  OF  SCIENCE,  LITERATURE.  &C. 
^in'lt  h""  u""f -^  of  Science,  Literature,  and  Art;  compri- 
sing the  History,  Description,  and  Scientific  Principles  of 
every  Branch  of  Human  Knowledge  ;  with  numerous  Fn- 
gravmgs.  By  W.  T.  Brande,  F-lls'.,  assS  by  several 
oJ  the  most  eminent  writers  of  the  age.   8vo.    Shp.   S4  00. 

Clearand  authentic,  copious  without  prolixity,  it  furnishes  an  exnlana- 

c^vc  opa.dia  will  find  ,t  an  excellent  substitute  for  ./ne     ai  1  he  wh    ha«" 
will  hnd  it  a  valuable  supplement.-A'c/ec/^c  Review.  "* "  ""  "^^'^  ^'"'' 

in. 
WEBSTER'S  DICTIONARY  OF  THE  ENGLISH  LANGUAGE. 

An  American  Dictionary  of  the  English  Language  •  ex- 
hibiting the  Origin,  Orthography,  Pronunciation,  and  Defi- 
nitions ol  Words.  By  Noah  Webster,  LL.D.  Abrid-ed 
from  the  quarto  Edition  of  the  Author;  to  which  are  add'ed, 
Walker's  Key  to  the  Classical  Pronunciation  of  Proper 
Names.  Revised  Edition,  with  an  Appendix,  containing 
al  the  additional  Words  in  the  last  Edition  of  the  lareer 
Work.     1  vol.  8vo.     Sheep.     $3  50. 

.Jrt  ^""^  '■^"'^  "r'  "'^'""'  '-''<=''onary  of  the  English  language  that  hu 
ever  been  seen~-Exam%ner.  be""  «»• 


'  7 


» 


<, 


.( 


If  t  ' 


I 


i!i: 


Z  VALUABLE    STANDARD    rRODl'C'l'IOXS 

IV. 

ENCYCLOP/EDIA  OF   DOMESTIC   ECONOMY. 

The  Encyclopa;dia  of  Domostic  Economy,  comprising 
such  Suhjecls  as  are  inmiediately  connected  with  llousc;- 
keeping  ;  as  the  Construction  of  Domestic  Edifices,  with 
the  .Mo(h's  of  Warming,  Ventilating,  and  Lighting  them , 
a  Description  of  the  various  Articles  of  Furniture,  &c. 
Nearly  1000  Engravings.     1  vol.  8vo.     Sheep.     $3  75. 

A  woik  which  must  spcrdily  be  rrpardcd  (is  i»n  indispensable  book  of 
relfc'rcrice  to  every  hoiisckeeiier. —  Kcltctic  Rtvirv. 

It  IS  a  ])erfe(,t  repusitory  (if  all  that  hoineiy  knowledge  which  is  so  tlif- 
ficiiit  t(i  oljtiiin  exrp|Pt  in  the  hard  scho(d  of  expeneni^e,  und  yet  so  needful 
for  Kettiiif,'  on  in  this  niiitter-iit-l'iict  world. —  Churchman. 

This  IS  decidedly  u  li«ok  lor  tho  million  :  it  contains  all  that  precise 
kind  of  I'lforiiiation  adiipted  to  the  usu  of  fuinilies,  and  which  one  may 
seek  a  loiiij  tune  for  in  vain  elsewhere. — A'ciy-  York  Evenin/f  Gazette. 

A  complete  library  lor  every  iiouseliold :  a  work  which  every  husband 
should  buy  for  his  wife,  and  every  father  for  his  daughter. — Sew  York 
Commernal  Advertiser. 

V. 

ANTHON'S  GREEK  AND  ROMAN  ANTIQUITIES. 
A  Dictionary  of  Greek  and  Roman  Antiquities,  from  the 
best  Authorities,  and  imbodying  all  the  recent  Discoveries 
of  the  most  eminent  German  Philologists  and  Jurists. 
Edited  by  William  Smith,  Ph.D.  Illustrated  by  a  large 
number  of  Engravings.  First  American  Edition,  correct- 
ed and  enlarged,  and  containing  also  numerous  Articles 
relative  to  the  Botany,  Mineralogy,  and  Zoology  of  the 
Ancients.     By  C.  Anthon,  LL.D.     8vo.     Sheep.     $4  75. 

VI. 

ANTHON'S  CLASSICAL  DICTIONARY. 
A  Classical  Dictionary,  containing  an  Account  of  the 
principal  Proper  Names  mentioned  in  Ancient  Authors, 
and  intended  to  elucidate  all  the  important  Points  con 
nected  with  the  Geography,  History,  J3iography,  Mytholo 
gy,  and  Fine  Arts  of  the  Greeks  and  Romans,  togethe 
with  an  Account  of  the  Coins,  Weights,  and  Measures  o*- 
the  Ancients,   with   Tabular  Values  of  the  same.     By 
Charles  Anthon,  LL.D.     Royal  8vo.     Sheep.     $4  75. 

The  distinguished  reputation  of  the  editor  is  a  sufficient  voucher  for 
the  excellence  of  these  productions,  independently  of  the  original  clarms 
of  the  works  themselves,  which  rank  among  the  first  of  aciinowledge-i 
authoritiei  in  the  British  schools  of  learning. — Commercial  Advertiser. 


I 


IO\S 


PrjnLIHIIED    BY    IIARl'KR    tc    HUOTIIKRS. 


3 


CONOMY. 
,  comprising 
with  House- 
Idilk-cs,  with 
jhling  Ihein , 
irniiure,  &c. 
;).     $3  75. 

)cn8able  book  of 

which  is  80  dif- 
id  yet  so  needful 

all  that  precise 
which  one  may 
ning  (lazette. 
Ii  every  husband 
ter.— A'eic-  York 


UITIES. 
ties,  from  the 
t  Discoveries 
and  Jurists. 
!(!  by  a  large 
ition,  correct- 
rous  Articles 
)ology  of  the 
eep.     $4  75. 

NARY, 
count  of  the 
ent  Authors, 
Points  con 
ly,  Mytholo 
ins,  togethe 
Vleasures  tf- 
same.     By 
$4  75. 

ent  voucher  for 
original  clarms 
aclcnowledgci 
al  Ad%)frti»er. 


VII. 

COPLAND'S  DICTIONARY  OF  PRACTICAL  MEDICINE. 
A  dictionary  of  Practical  Medicine  ;  comprisiiis;  n  Gen- 
eral Patliology,  the  Nature  and  Treatment  of  Diseases, 
Morbid  Structures,  (Slc.  By  James  Copland,  Ml),  P  R  S. 
Edited,  with  Additions,  by  Charles  A  Lee,  M.D.  Now 
publishing  in  Parts,  price  50  cents  each.  About  25  Parts 
to  complete  the  Work,  12  of  which  are  now  publislied. 

The  great  rcconimendation  of  this  dictionary  is  its  t«'rsriipss  and  pre- 
cision. Dr.  Copland's  reforcncps  to  tht;  sources  whence  he  derives  tlie 
uiforiiiation  he  conveys  ure  adiiiirably  placed,  Kivin(f  the  essence  of  the 
kiiowlcdf,'f'  necessary  to  be  coiiimuiiicated  in  order  to  a  ri^ht  understaiid- 
in|^  of  the  subject  which  is  treated,  without  entering  into  t;ie  difTuscness 
of  the  (jriginal  text. — yew-Orlfona  liullettn. 

Ur.  Copland  has  here  pulilishcd  a  series  of  essays  which  may  be  justly 
said  to  be  unrivalled  for  extent  and  accuracy  of  information,  methodic 
arraugemei  ',,  and  the  condens-ed  form  in  which  they  are  coinposeil.  If 
he  i)ri)<:eeds  as  he  has  comtnenced,  he  will  produce  a  work  wliich  is  yet 
unrivalled  in  the  English  language. — Edin.  Medical  and  Surgical  Joum, 

VIII. 

COOPER'S  SURGICAL  DICTIONARY. 
A  Dictionary  of  Practical  Surgery  ;  comprehending  all 
the  most  interesting  Improvements  ;  an  Account  of  the 
Instruments  and  Remedies  employed  in  Surgery,  the  Ety- 
mology and  Signification  of  the  principal  Terms,  &.c.  By 
Samuel  Cooper,  M.D.  With  numerous  Notes  and  Addi- 
tions, derived  from  the  Practice  of  American  Surgeons, 
together  with  a  Supplementary  Index,  in  which  the  Sci- 
ence of  Surgery  is  brought  dovvij  to  the  present  Period. 
By  David  M.  Reese,  A.M.,  M.D.  1  vol.  8vo.  Sheep  ex- 
tra.    $3  87i 

IX. 

HOOPER'S  MEDICAL  DICTIONARY. 
Lexicon  Medicum ;  or.  Medical  Dictionary.  Contain- 
ing an  Explanation  of  the  Terms  in  the  various  Branches 
of  Science  connected  with  Medicine.  With  Additions  from 
American  Authors.  By  Samuel  Akerly,  M.D.  Sheep 
extra.     $3  00. 

X. 

KEIGHTLEY'S  HISTORY  OF  ENGLAND. 
History  of  England,  from  the  Earliest  Period  to  1839. 
By  Thomas  Keightley.    Edited  by  an  American.    5  vols. 
18mo.     S2  25. 


fl 


VALUABLE    STANDARD    PRODUCTIONa 


(  i 


l!:S 


f 


r* 


■In 


:l  . 


i 


I  ! 


XT. 

THIRLWALL'S   HISTORY  OF  GREECE. 
A  History  of  Greece.     By  lit.  liev.  Connop  Thirlwall, 
Bishop  of  St.  David's.     2  vols.  8vo.     Muslin  gilt.     S3  50. 

Althoucfli  tlio  author's  fancy  is  everywhere  sul>jprt  to  liis  correct  his- 
tori'^.tl  taste,  the  student  will  not  fail  to  det:u;t  traces  of  that  scholur-like 
(ieli((ht  in  tlie  graceful  and  lovely  fictions  of  antiquity,  which  is  so  pecu- 
liarly attractive  to  minds  of  coni,'enial  temper.  It  animates  the  rrailor 
through  the  toilsome  intricacy  of  some  parts  of  his  progress,  like  a  l)rook 
by  iliK  wayside,  which,  thouf^h  it  only  sparkles  occasionally  in  the  trav- 
eller's eye,  yet  enlivens  him  by  the  sen^e  of  its  constant  companionship. 
— Edinburgh  Review. 

XII. 

ROL  LIN'S  ANCIENT  HISTORY. 
The  Ancient  History  of  the  Egyptians,  Carthaginians, 
Assyrians,  Babylonians,  Medes  and  Persians,  Grecians, 
and  Macedonians ;  including  the  History  of  the  Arts  and 
Sciences  of  the  Ancients.  By  Charles  Kollin.  With  a 
Life  of  the  Author,  oy  James  Bell.  Only  complete  Amer- 
ican E'_aion.  8vo.  Maps  and  Engravings.  Sheep  extra. 
Bound  in  1  vol.,  83  50 ;  2  vols.,  $3  75. 

XIII. 

PRESCOTT'S   CONQUEST  OF   MEXICO. 
The  History  of  the  Conquest  of  Mexico,  with  a  prelim- 
inary View  of  Ancient  Mexican  Civilization.     By  William 
H.  Prescott,  Esq.     3  vols.  8vo.     Portraits  and  Map.    Mus- 
lin gilt.     $6  00. 

There  is  r.o  exagg^eration  in  stating  that  the  "  Conquest  of  Mexico" 
contains  most  of  the  valuable  qualities  which  distin^ui:<h  the  most  popu- 
lar historical  writers  in  our  lanfjuaf^e.  It  unites  the  chivalrous  but  truth- 
ful enthusiasm  of  Col.  Napier,  and  the  vivacity  of  the  accomplished  au- 
thor of  tl'.e  "  .Siege  of  Granada,"  with  the  patient  and  ample  research  of 
Mr.  Tyiler. — Edinburgh  Review, 

XIV. 

PRESCOTT'S   FERDINAND  AND    ISABLLLA. 

History  of  the  Ileign  of  Ferdinand  and  Isabella,  the 
Catholic.  By  William  H.  Prescott,  Esq.  Tenth  Edition. 
3  vols.  8vo.   'Portraits.     Muslin  gilt.     $6  00. 

While  the  English  language  shall  exist,  we  venture  to  say  Prescott's 
"History  of  Ferdinand  and  Isabella"  will  bo  revul.  — Biblical  Repository. 

We  know  of  scarcely  any  other  work  so  amusing,  instructive,  ami 
powerfully  attractive  as  t'.iis  ;  it  possesses  every  charm  which  eleganco 
of  diction,  gracefulness  of  style,  and  interest  of  subject  caii  impart.— 
New-York  Review. 


I  It' 


i,J'» 


<J3 


ICE. 
Thirlwall, 

t.     m  50. 

correct  his- 
soholiir-like 
1  is  So  pecu- 
5  the  rrader 
like  a  brook 
in  the  trav- 
ipaniunship. 


laginians, 
Grecians, 
Arts  and 
With  a 
3te  Amer- 
eep  extra. 


ICO. 

a  prelim- 
Y  William 
jp.    Mus- 

uf  Mexico" 

most  popu- 

is  but  truth- 

iplishcd  au- 

research  of 


LLLA. 
bella,  the 
1  Edition. 


y  Prescoll's 
Repository. 
uclive,  ami 
nh  elt'Ranco 
ti  impart. — 


PUBLISHED    BY    HARPER   &.   BROTHERS.  5 

XV. 

PRESCOTT'S  BIOGRAPHICAL  AND  CRITICAL  MISCELLANIES. 
Biographical  and  Critical  Miscellanies,  By  William  H 
Prescott,  Esq.  Containing,  Charles  Brockden  Brown- 
Asylum  lor  the  Blind— Irving's  Conquest  of  Granada- 
Cervantes— Sir  Walter  Scott— Chateaubriand's  English 
Literature— Bancroft's  United  States— Madame  Calde- 
ron's  Life  in  Mexico— Moli6re— Italian  Narrative  Poetry 
—Scottish  Song— Da  Ponte's  Ob.servations— Poetry  and 
Romance  of  the  Italians.  8vo.  Portrait  of  the  Author. 
Muslin  gilt.     $2  00. 

XVI. 

MILMAN'S   EDITION   OF   GIBBON'S   ROME. 

History  of  the  Decline  and  Fall  of  the  Roman  Empire 
By  Edward  Gibbon.  New  Edition,  with  Notes,  by  Lev 
H.  H.  Milman  and  M.  Guizot.     4  vols.  8vo.    Sheep.   $f  no. 

If  tins  work  be  not  always  history,  it  is  often  somethini?  more  than  his- 
tory, and  above  It ;  it  is  philosophy,  it  iti  theology,  it  is  wit  and  eloquence, 
It  IS  cnticKsm  the  most  masterly  on  every  subject  with  which  literature 
can  be  connected.— /Vo/ejsor  Smyth. 

XVII. 

RUSSELL'S  HISTORY  OF  MODERN  EUROPE. 
History  of  Modern  Europe  :  with  a  View  of  the  Prog 
ress  of  Society,  from  the  Rise  of  the  Modern  Kingdoms  to 
the  Peace  of  Paris  in  1763.  By  William  Russell,  LL  D 
With  a  Continuation  of  the  History  by  William  Jones,  Esq 
3  vols.  8vo.    Engravings.     Sheep.     $5  00. 

XVIII. 

ALISON'S   HISTORY  OF   EUROPE. 
History  of  Europe  from  the   Commencement  of  the 
French  Revolution  in  1789  to  the  Restoration  of  the  Bour- 
bons in  1815.     By  Archibald  Alison,  F.R.S.     4  vols  8vo 
Sheep.     $5  00. 

No  work  could  have  made  such  progress  in  national  opinion  without 
substani'al  qualities  ;  its  vigour  of  research  and  its  manliness  ( *"  princi- 
pb',  its  accurate  knowledge,  and  its  animation  of  style,  have  been  the 
grounds  of  its  remarkable  public  favour,  as  they  are  the  guarantees  for 
Us  permanent  popularity.— £ZacAu;ooi. 

The  most  elegantly  written  and  powerfully  dramatic  history  ever  pro- 
•juced  ;  lor  the  lulonsity  of  its  interest  it  is  unsurpassed.— Z)emoc7a/u 
Revieio 


i^ 


j:  ' 


*v. 


1^    I    /' 

,  1 1 


• 


hjil 


i\ 


6 


VALUABLE    STANDARD    PRODUCTIONS 


XIX. 

TYTLER'S  UNIVERSAL  HISTORY. 
Universal  History,  from  the  (Creation  of  the  World  to 
the  Decease  of  George  III.,  \fZO.     By  the  Hon.  Alexan- 
der Fraser  Tytler  and  Rev.  Edward  Nares,  D.D.    6  vols. 
18rao.     $2  70. 

XX. 

ROBERTSON'S  HISTORICAL  WORKS. 

The  Historical  Works  of  William  Robertson,  D.D.  ^ 
vols.  8vo.     Maps  and  Engravings.     Sheep.     $5  00. 

'*  The  taknts  of  Dr.  Robertson  as  an  historian  vere  for  some  time  reck- 
oned superior  to  those  of  any  rival  author ;  his  Charlos  V,  unites  tho 
requisites  of  good  wilting  in  thi  greatest  degree." 

XXI. 

HALLAM'S  MIDDLE  AGES. 
View  of  the  State  of  Europe  during  the  Middle  Ages. 
By  Henry  Hallam.     8vo.     Sheep  extra.     $2  00. 

XXII. 

HALLAM'S  CONSTITUTIONAL  HISTORY  OF  ENGLAND. 

The  Constitutional  History  of  England,  from  the  Ac- 
cession of  Henry  VH.  to  the  Death  of  George  H.  By 
Henry  Hallam.    Svo.     [In  press.] 

XXIII. 

HALLAM'S  LITERARY  HISTORY. 
Introduction  to  the  Literature  of  Europe  in  the  15th, 
I6th,  and  17th  Centuries.     By  Henry  Hallam.    2  vols. 
Svo.     Sheep.     $3  76. 

To  all  lovers  of  literature  this  work  will  be  acceptable  ;  to  the  young, 
we  conceive,  invaluable. — Quarterly  Review. 

The  most  important  contribution  to  literary  history  which  English  li- 
braries have  received  for  many  years.  Mr.  Hallam  has  great  industry 
and  acuteness ;  his  knowledge  is  extensive,  various,  and  profound  ;  his 
mind  is  equally  (distinguished  by  the  amplitude  of  its  grasp,  and  by  the 
delicacy  of  its  t&ct. — Edinburgh  Review. 

XXIV. 

CAMPBELL'S   RHETORIC. 
Philosophy  of  Rhetoric.     By  George  Campbell, 
12mo      Bound.     $1  25. 


The 
D.D..  F.R.S. 


lib    i 


PUBLISHED    BV    HARPER  &    BROTHERS.  7 

XXV. 

ALISON  ON  THE  NATURE  AND  PRINCIPLES  OF  TASTE. 
An  Essay  on  the  Nature  and  Principles  of  Taste      By 
Archibald  Alison,  LLB.,  F.RS.     With  Notes  and  Emen- 
Jations.     By  Abraham  Mills,  Esq.     12mo.     Muslm.     76 
eents. 

XXVI, 

PLUTARCH'S  LIVES  OF  ANCIENT  PHILOSOPHERS. 
Lives  of  Ancient  Philosophers.  By  Plutarch.  Trans- 
lated from  the  original  Greek,  with  Notes,  and  a  Life  of 
Plutarch.  By  John  Langhorne,  M.D.,  and  William  Lang- 
home,  A.M.  8vo.  Portrait.  Sheep  extra.  $2  00  The 
same  Work,  in  4  vols.  12mo,  piinted  in  large  type,  sheep 
extra,  §3  50. 

XXVII. 

CRABB'S   ENGLISH   SYNONYMES. 
English  Synonymes,  with  copious  Illustrations  and  Ex- 
planations drawn  from   the  best   Writers.     By  Georee 
Crabb.     l  vol.  8vo.     Sheep.     .^2  37^. 

.    VVe  find  ill  this  work  a  patient  examination  of  words  in  all  their  bear- 
ngs   and  a  co  lection  of  remarks  on  the  peculiar  uses  of  each  that  are 
highly  valuable.— Quarrer/y  Review. 

XXVIII. 

JPHAM'S  MENTAL   PHILOSOPHY. 

Elements  of  Mental  Philosophy :   embracing  the   two 

Departments  of  the  Intellect  and  Sensibilities.     By  Prof. 

T.  C.  Lpham,  of  Bowdoin  College.     2  vols.  12mo.     Sheet) 

extra.     $2  50.  ^ 

Professor  Upham  has  brought  tog-ether  the  leading  views  of  the  best 
writers  on  the  most  important  topics  of  mental  science,  and  exhibited 
them,  a.s  well  as  the  conclusKms  which  he  himself  adopts,  with  ereat 
(rood  judgment,  candour,  clearness,  anil  method.  Out  of  all  the  syste- 
matic treatises  in  use,  we  consider  the  volumes  of  Mr.  Upham  by  far  the 
l^est  Ih-dt  wo  have— Xcw-York  Review.  /«■,!« 


XXIX. 

DRYDEN'S  WORKS. 
The  Works  of  .John  Dryden.     With  a  Memoir. 
8vo.    Portrait.     Sheep  extra.     $3  75 


3  vols. 


^mm 


!■:    i 


<;v 


4 


H 


8 


VALUABLE    STANDAUD    PllODUCTIONB 


BURKE  ON  THE 


XXX. 

SUBLIME 


AND  BEAUTIFUL. 


A  Philosophical  Inquiry  into  our  Ideas  of  the  Sublime 
and  Beaulilul.  With  an  Introductory  U'scourse  concern- 
ing Taste.  BvIU.  lion.  Edmund  Burke.  12mo.  Muslin. 
75  cents. 

xxxr. 

BURKE'S   WORKS. 

The  complete  Works  of  Edmund  Burke.  With  a  Me- 
moir.    3  vols.  8vo.     Portrait.     Sheep  extra.     $5  00. 

It  arpups  sonu'thiiif,'  in  proof  of  a  wide-.sprpaciini^  taste  for  cleijant  liter 
ature,  and  a  strontj  dcsirn  for  |upliiiral  kii"\vlt'df(e  of  the  hiphest  order, 
when  a  series  of  voliimiiious  works— iii  form  and  fashion  addressed  to 
another  a^^e,  whose  spirit  was  very  ditFt  rent  from  ours,  and  appealing  in 
tone  and  composition  to  cultivaled  tastes  and  intelleets  raised  above  tl 
general — ean  lie  published  for  the  people  with  a  prospect  of  popular  suf 
cess. — Spectator. 

XXXIL 

HANNAH    MORE'S  WORKS. 

The  Works  of  Hannah  More.  8vo.  Engravings.  Sheep 
extra.  Bound  in  1  vol  ,  $2  ,50  ;  2  vols.,  $2  75.  The  same 
Work,  printed  in  large  type,  7  vols,  royal  12mo,  $6  50. 

xxxin 
ADDISON'S   WORKS. 

The  Works  of  Joseph  Addison.  Including  "  The  Spec- 
tator" entire.    3  vols.  8vo.    Portrait.    Sheep  extra.   S5  50. 

Whoever  wishes  to  attain  an  Enplish  style,  familiar  but  not  coarse, 
and  elegant  Imt  not  ostentations,  must  give  his  days  and  nights  to  ihe 
volumes  of  Addison. — Dr.  Johnson, 

XXXIV. 

DRAPER  ON  THE  ORGANIZATION  OF  PLANTS. 

A  Treatise  on  the  Forces  which  produce  the  Organiza- 
tion of  Plants.     With  an  Appendix,  containing  several 
Memoirs   on    Capillary  Attraction,   Electricity,   and    the 
Chwnical  Action  of  Light.     By  John  William  Draper,  M.D 
Muslin  gilt.     4to.     Engravings.     $2  50. 


1 


f' 


VALTAULE  BOOKS  OF  TRAVEL 

PUBLISHED    HV 

UAKPER  &  BROTHERS,  XEW-YORK. 


I. 

DR.  DURBIN'S  OBSERVATIONS  IN  THE  EAST. 

Observations  in  the  East,  chiefly  in  Eji,'yp/,  the  Desert, 

Palestine,   Syria,  Asia   iMinor,  and   Constantinople.     By 

John  P.  Durbin,  D.D.     2  vols.  12mo.    Engravin-rs.    Muslin 

gilt.     S2  00. 

It  is  a  niDSt  rich,  intellectuiil  U-j.si.—  lSuff'alo  Advocate. 

The  volumes  are,  without  exaffgeriitioii',  equal  lu  interest  and  (graphic 
ertect  to  ihe  best  books  ol  modern  travel  with  which  we  are  acciuainted. 
There  is  an  oH'-hand  fVankness  and  s|iirit  al)uut  the  sketches,  which  are 
always  marked  hy  caution  and  discrimination,  so  that  the  statements  are 
as  reliable  as  they  are  attractively  interesting'.— .S'ynri/  of  the  Times. 

This  book  IS  curious,  attractive,  and  instructive  ;  the  author  has  avoid- 
ed all  useless  lumber,  and  recorded  in  simple,  unatfected  laiiiruat.'e,  his 
observations  upon  what  met  Ins  eye.  His  book  show*  the  scholar,  the 
Christian,  the  i)luh)sophical  observer,  and  the  American  patriot,  l)ut  not 
a  bit  of  the  pedant  or  the  bore  ;  a  more  agreeable  companion  or  guide 
could  scarcely  be  found  than  Dr.  Durbiu.— i/u/a/o  Com.  Advertiser. 

II. 

DR.  DURBIN'S  OBSERVATIONS  IN  EUROPE. 
Observations  in  Europe,  principally  in  France  and  Great 
Britain.     By  John  P.  burbin,  D.D.    2vols.  12mo.    Engra- 
vings.    Muslin  gilt.     S2  00. 

Few  prad  ictions  of  the  kind  have  been  published  of  late  years,  in 
vrhich  so  Ilia,  V  valuable  truths  have  been  set  forth  in  so  attractive  a 
ioxm.—ilethoaist  Quarterly  Review. 

III. 

DR.  OLIN'S  TRAVELS  IN  THE  HOLY  LAND,  &C. 
Travels  in  Egypt,  Arabia  Petrp-a,  and  the  Holy  Land. 
By    Stephen    Olin,    D.D.      2  vo'j.    12mo.      Engravings. 
Eighth  Edition.     Muslin  gwt.     $2  50. 

Dr.  Olin's  excellent  volumes  convey  a  great  amount  of  information,  also 
remarkably  accurate  ;  his  volume  contains  the  best  account  of  Egypt  that 
has  appeared  in  this  country— perhaps  in  the  language.— Dr.  Dl'HBi.n. 

This  work,  from  the  pen  of  the  distinguished  President  of  the  Wes- 
leyan  University,  is  amoi.g  the  latest  on  the  subject.  It  is  rich  in  infor- 
mation, pervaded  by  a  lofty  spirit,  and  entitled  to  entire  confidence.— Dr. 
Pottek's  Hand-book. 

We  can  most  contidently  and  cordially  recommend  this  book  to  our 
readers,  as  a  production  which  does  honour  to  the  nuthor.— Me thodn-t 
Quarterly  Review. 


k^ 


H..M 


VALUAULl::    IJOOKri    OF    TRAVEL 


IV. 

DR.   WOLFF'S   MISSION   TO   BOKHARA. 
Narrative  of  a  Mission  to  Bokhara,  in  tho  Years  1H4U- 
184.'),  to  ascertain  the  Fate  ofC'olonel  Stoddart  and  Captain 
Conolly.     13y  Rev.  Joseph  VVolrt;  U.D.,LL.D.     8vo.     En 
<Traving8.     Mushn  gilt.     $2  00. 

This  IS  a  most  intcrcstiiiff  niul  instructivn'work,  coiitiiiiiinf^  :i  sketch 
of  the  (ii.sliii);uiNli(>(l  iuitliiii''.>j  lil'r,  and  a  rich  treasury  of  Oriental  inisiioii- 
ary  information,  intersiicrsed  with  incidents  of  thrilhiij<  interest.  Tim 
cuinninnity  are  already  familiar  with  the  name  of  the  Uov.  .lo.seph  Wold', 
one  of  tiie  most  remark.'ible  men  of  the  present  a^e. — Chrtstian  Intfl. 

A  work  of  ^rcat  interest,  and  full  of  tlie  most  curious  inforinatKMi  and 
thrillin)^  d<'tails.  It  will'  ho  seen  to  he  the  work  of  an  ecrentric  man,  l)ut 
•veil  this  rather  adds  to  its  interest  than  detracts  from  it. — Albany  Spec- 
tator. 

V. 

HUMBOLDT'S  COSMOS. 
Cosmos  :  a  General  J^urvey  of  the  Physical  Phenomena 
of  the  Universe.    liy  Alexander  Von  Humboldt.     From  tho 
Fourth  German  Edition.     8vo.     Muslin  gilt.    To  be  com- 
pleted in  Four  Numbers.     Two  now  published. 

The  work  contains  the  latest  results  of  tb  sciences  anil  the  last  conclu- 
sions drawn  from  them  upon  the  mind  and  u  ulcrstaiiding  of  a  groat  phi- 
losopher. Tho  work  IS  one  of  the  finest  and  most  finished  blossoms  which 
the  cultivaluni  of  natural  sciences  has  eve.-  produced. — Uroadway  Journal. 

This  work,  therefore,  will  he  henceforth  the  text-hook  of  all  who  would 
learn  how  nature  has  herself  unfolded  the  story  of  her  birth,  and  how 
those  she  nourished  by  her  truths  have  recorded  what  she  taught. — Lon- 
don CriUc. 

VI. 

TRAVELS  OF  ALEXANDER  VON  HUMBOLDT. 
Travels  and  Researches  of  Alexander  Von  Humboldt  J 
being  a  condensed  Narrative  of  his  Journeys  in  the  Equi- 
noctial Regions  of  America,  and  in  Asiatic  Russia  ;  togeth- 
er with  Analyses  of  his  more  important  Investigations.  Ijy 
W.  Macgillivray,  A.M.     18mo.     Engravings.     45  cents. 

Humboldt  is  the  most  illustrious  traveller  of  his  day.  Nothing  seenin 
too  vast,  too  varied,  too  wonderful,  or  too  minute  for  the  keen  eye,  penre- 
trating  intellect,  and  umvearied  exertions  of  this  extraordinary  man.  A 
botanist,  zoologist,  statist,  and  philosopher,  the  genius  of  this  great  wri- 
ter seems  to  have  been  peculiarly  fitted  for  surveying  the  varieties  and 
immensity  of  the  physical  world  ;  and  he  accordingly  takes  the  foremost 
rank  of  all  travellers,  dead  or  living. — Dibden. 

This  work  has  been  justly  called  by  a  competent  judge,  "  a  work  of  gi- 
gantic extent  and  richness,  tt)  which  the  modern  literature  of  Europe 
can  hardly  offer  a  parallel." — Encyclopedia  Americana, 


\\\>% 


PlJHLI«llt;D    IJY    IIAKIKK    it.    IJKOTUEHS. 


VFI. 

TRAVELS  OF  MARCO  POLO. 
Travels  of  Marco  Polo,  greatly  amondod  and  enlarged 
Croin  valuable  early  Mamiscripta  rr-eenlly  published  by  tbo 
Trench  Society  of  (ieoyraphy,  and  in  Italy  by  Count  Hal- 
delli  Honi.  Witli  copious  Notes,  illustrating  the  Routes 
and  Observations  of  the  Author,  and  et  inparing  them  with 
those  of  more  recent  Travellers.  By  lluf^h  Murray, 
I'.R.S  K.  18njo.  Two  Maps  and  a  Vignette.  Muslin 
gilt.     45  cents. 

Thr'  l)p«t  edition  of  tin."  travels  of  Marco  Polo  that  \v«  have  rvnr  hppm. 
This  faiiioiii  old  traveller,  iifter  so  ioii^  lahounni,'  under  a  cloud  of  sus- 
picion as  (o  the  verity  of  his  statements,  has  lately,  liy  the  industry  of 
nirNlern  coiniueiitators,  hecii  rubbed  bright,  in  some  dcijr'je,  and  his  iinr- 
riilives,  always  iiiterestiiiff,  are  now  read  with  a  dej^ree  of  faith  which 
hitherto  was  not  exercised  in  their  perusal.  The  volume  before  us  con- 
tains maps,  copious  notes,  and  illustrations  by  the  editor,  and  is  every 
way  a  most  interestiii(r  book. — I'o.it. 

A  work  hitherto  iiiaccossihio,  tbou(?h  muc'h  renowned  in  'he  world  of 
loiters.  This  IS  another  of  the  ^reat  literary  performances  that  ori(jinated 
within  the  walls  of  a  dungeon,  Marco  Polo  hein«,  at  the  time  of  its  com- 
positKUi,  imprisoned  at  Pisa.  This  enterprising  traveller  explored  more 
in  the  very  heart  of  the  (Chinese  PJnipire,  and  .c(|uired  more  intimate 
knowledjfe  of  the  wandering  Tartars  of  Asia,  than  any  of  his  predeces- 
sors, and,  indeed,  we  mipht  add,  his  successors,  for  m  the  13th  century 
he  enjoyed  the  immunity,  since  denied,  of  visiting  Pekin  with  his  eyrs 
oien  ;  his  description,  therefore,  cannot  hut  be  interesting  and  valuable. 

-New  Ynrh  Commercial  Advertiser. 

VIII. 

DR.  PARROT'S  JOURNEY  TO  MOUNT  ARARAT. 
Journey  to  Mount  Ararat.     By  Dr.  Friedrich  Parrot. 
Translated  by  W.  D.  Cooley.     18mo.     Map  and  Engra- 
vings.    Muslin  gilt.     50  cents. 

This  book  is  a  desideratum  in  English  literature.  There  is  a  popular 
interest  attached  to  the  mountain,  which  the  traditions  both  of  Christian 
and  Mohammedan  nations  associate  with  one  of  the  most  impressive 
events  ia.  the  earliest  records  of  our  race. — London  Spectator. 

IX. 

BUCKINGHAM'S  TRAVELS   IN   AMERICA. 

America:  Historical,  Statistical,  and  Descriptive.  By 
J.  S.  Buckingham.  2  vols.  8vo.  Engravings.  Muslin  gilt. 
$3  50. 

"  A  work  of  great  value,  as  comprising  a  vast  amount  of  curious  sta- 
tistical information,  criticisms  on  art."  &c 


7  f 


1  V 


l. 


'■  i 


'I 


iii  I 


i: 


^,i 


(•V 


J  i 


4  VALUABLE    bUOKS    OF    ".'RAVEL 

X. 

GENERAL  GREEN'S  TEXIAN  EXPEDITION  AGAINST  MIER. 
Journal  of  the  Tcxian  Expedition  ajjainst  Mier;  subse- 
quent Imprisonment  of  the  Antlior  ;  his  SufTorings,  and 
final  Escape  from  the  Castle  of  Perote,  with  Reftertiona 
upon  llie  present  Political  and  probable  future  Relations 
of  Texas,  Mexico,  and  the  United  States.  By  General 
Thomas  J.  Green.  Illustrated  ny  Drawings  taken  from 
Life  by  Charles  iM'Laughlin,  a  Fellow-prisoner.  8vo. 
Muslin  gilt.     $!2  00. 

This  work  is  one  of  startling  and  most  absorbinij  interest  ;  besides 
beintf  very  (,'''''»|)bif.  in  (lescrii)tion,  it  pives  examples  of  personal  mid 
moral  courage  and  of  HkIiImip,  siieli  as  brin(»8  bark  the  remembrance  of 
the  fields  of  Cressy  and  Agincourt,  for  odds  in  the  encounters. — Anglo- 
American. 

The  history  of  the  most  thrilling  incidents  in  the  affairs  of  Texas,  from 
the  peii  of  the  leading  actor,  and  in  a  style  spirited,  strong,  and  excitin^f. 
It  will  III!  read  with  great  avidity.— L'l'cnini,'  Post. 

A  volume  of  romantic  interest  ;  it  contains  scenes  and  incidents  con- 
nected Willi  the  well-known  expedition,  involving  a  bloody  struggle,  and 
gives  us  an  in.sight  into  the  character  and  conduct  of  men,  which  we  read 
with  no  little  interest.— iiDon^'e/is/. 

XL 

DARWIN'S   VOYAGE   ROUND  THE  WORLD. 

Journal  of  Jlesearches  into  the  Natural  History  and  Ge- 
ology of  the  Countries  visited  during  the  Voyage  of  H.  M 
Ship  Beagle  round  the  World,  under  the  Command  ofCapt 
FitzRoy,  R.N.     By  Charles  Darwin,  M.A.,F.R.S.    2  vols. 
12mo.     Muslin  gilt.     $1  00. 

This  is  a  first-rate  work,  combining  popular  interest  with  scientifi' 
ability  and  value,  better  than  any  similar  book  we  have  seen.  It  is  writ- 
ten in  a  graceful  and  popular  style. — New-York  Courier  and  Enquirer. 


DR.  MOTT'S  TRAVELS  IN  EUROPE  AND  THE  EAST. 
Travels  in  Europe  and  the  East.     By  Valentine  Mott, 
M.D.     8vo      Muslin  gilt.     $1  90. 

The  iearr.ed  professor  has  judiciously  abstained  from  the  more  commou 
and  familiar  topics  described  by  former  tourists,  and  has  introduced  us  to 
the  most  distinguished  schools  of  medicine  and  surgery,  and  tea  familiar 
acquainttnce  with  the  character,  manners,  <fec.,  of  the  most  distinguished 
foreign  members  of  the  faculty.  The  author  has  evidently  observed 
whatever  came  under  his  notice  with  a  critical  eye,  and  has  given  soma 
new  and  striking  views,  particularly  in  regard  to  the  Pythian  Oracle,  the 
Temple  of  Apollo  at  Delphis,  and  the  religion  of  the  ancient  Egyptians. 
— Methodist  Q'-arterly  Review. 


f? 


,,ry 


rUBLISHED    DY    HARPER   &   BROTIlEUa 


INST  MIER. 
flier;  suhse- 
(Tnriiigs,  and 
I  Rf'fk'ctiona 
re  lielalions 
By  General 
taken  from 
soner.     8vo. 

itcrest  ;  besides 
)f  jicrsoiinl  and 
reiiienibrance  of 
uiiters. — Anglo- 

s  of  Texas,  from 
ig,  and  exciting. 

i  incidents  con- 
dy  struggle,  and 
I,  which  we  read 


WORLD, 
story  and  Ge- 
,rage  of  H.  M 
nand  of  Capt 
R.S.    2  vols. 


with  scientifi' 
leen.     It  is  writ- 
and  Enquirer. 


HE  EAST. 
Ilentine  Mott, 


18  more  commoa 
lintroduced  us  to 

ind  tea  familiar 
jst  distinguished 
Fdently  observed 
I  has  given  soma 
|hian  Oracle,  the 

;ient  Egyptians. 


XIII. 

LESTER'S  GLORY  AND  SHAME  OF  ENGLAND. 
The  Glory  and  Shame  of  England.     IJy  ('.  Edwards 
Lester.    2vols.  12mo.    Engravings.     Muslin  gilt.    $150. 

The  l)old  ana  romnntic  spirit  of  tins  work  has  already  prorurod  it  no 
small  share  of  attention  both  in  this  country  and  Great  Hritain.  The 
d<!velopmenls  hrro  made  of  the  roiidition  of  tlio  poor  ui  England,  making 
due  allowance  for  the  luxuriance  of  the  author's  fancy,  are  of  a  most 
fearful  chartxcter.— Methodist  Quarterly  Revieu), 

XIV. 

PARRY'S   VOYAGES  TO  THE  POLAR  SEAS. 

Three  Voyages  for  the  Discovery  of  a  Northwest  Pas- 
sage from  the  Atlantic  to  the  Pacific  and  Narrative  of  an 
Attempt  to  reach  the  North  Pole.  iJy  Sir  W.  E.  Parry, 
H.N.     2  vols.  18mo.     Portrait.     Muslin  gilt.     90  cents. 

The  history  of  these  enterprises  will  be  found  exceedingly  interesting  ; 
much  curious  and  valiial.le  information  is  also  given  in  relation  to  the 
dreary  and  inhospitable  regions  of  northern  Siberia,  and  the  various 
tribes  that  inhabit  Ihem.—Jiletho/ist  Quarterly  Review. 

XV. 

KENDALL'S  SANTA  FE  EXPEDITION. 
Narrative  of  the  Texan  Santa  Fe  Expedition,  comprising 
a  Description  of  a  Tour  through  Texas,  and  across  the 
great  Southwestern  Prairies,  the  Camanche  and  Caygiia 
Hunting-grounds,  &c.  By  George  Wilkins  Kendall.  2 
vols.  12mo.  Map  and  Engravings.  New  Edition.  Mus- 
lin gilt.     S2  50. 

It  has  seldom  fallen  to  our  lot  to  read  a  narrative  of  so  interesting  and 
touching  incidents  of  travel  as  abound  in  these  volumes  ;  we  were  not 
prepared  to  find  in  them  reading  so  very  attractive,  nor  could  wo  form 
any  idea  that  such  a  narrative  of  toils  and  sufferings  as  are  hure  detailed 
by  the  sufferer  himself,  would  present  so  many  points  of  instruction  to 
the  geiieriil  reader. — Methodist  Quarterly  Review. 

XVI. 

ANTHON'S  PILGRIMAGE  TO  TREVES. 
A  Pilgrimage  to  Treves,  through  the  Valley  of  the  Meuse 
and  the  Forest  of  Ardennes,  in  the  Year  1844.     By  Charles 
Edward  Anthon.     12mo.     Muslin  gilt.     75  cents. 

This  book  is  a  modest,  carefully-written  narrative  of  facts,  with  few 
reflections,  and  those  generally  marked  with  good  sense  and  proper  feel- 
ing.—  Buffalo  Commercial  Advertiser. 

If  this  af.ractive  volume  possessed  no  otlier  claim  to  attention,  it  has 
the  charm  of  novelty  about  it,  the  author  having  chosen  no  beaten  track 
for  his  route,  although  one  of  great  interest. — X.  Y.  Com.  Advertiser. 


t  V 


VAUJADl.E    BOOK.S    OF   TRAVEL 


1) 


l| 


I.' 


\ 


f 


'  )'•. 


XVII. 

MISS   SEDGWICK'S   LETTERS. 
Letters  from  Abroad  to  Kindred  at  Home.     By  Miss  C. 
M.  Sedgwick.     2  vols.  12mo.     Muslin  gilt.     Si  90. 

Miss  SedRwick  has  fur  oxcopdod  hor  jirodprcssors  ;  for  they  only  df-.- 
Sfrihcd  characters  and  scones,  while  sho  hns  carried  lier  researches  iiitb 
the  parlours,  nay,  into  the  very  pantries  of  priTato  individuals.  Miss 
Scd^'Wick  (Kcupies  a  hi},'h  ])osUi()n  i:i  America,  not  merely  as  an  oitianitnt 
of  Its  world  uf  light  literature,  but  as  a  moral  teacher. — London  Alhenxum, 

XVIII. 

VOYAGES  ROUND  THE  WORLD. 
Voyages  round  the  World,  from  the  Death  of  Captain 
Cook  to  the  present  Time  ;  including  Remarks  on  the  So- 
cial Condition  of  the  Inhabitants  in  the  recently-discovered 
Countries;  their  Progress  in  the  Arts;  and  more  especially 
their  Advancement  in  Religious  Knowledge.  18mo.  Mus- 
lin gilt.     45  cents. 

This  volume,  containing^  the  researches  of  the  latest  navigators,  is  ad- 
mirably written,  presenting  in  every  page  matter  of  the  most  interesting 
and  valuable  kind. — New-Orleans  Eutlettn 

XIX. 

STEPHENS'S  CENTRAL  AMERICA. 
Incidents  of  Travel  in  Central  America,  Chiapas,  and 
Yucatan.     By  John  L.  Stephens.     2  vols.  8vo.     Map  a«d 
80  Engravings.     Muslin  gilt.     $5  00. 

XX. 

STEPHENS'S  YUCATAN. 
Incidents  of  Travel  in  Yucatan.     By  John  L.  Stephens. 
2  vols.  8vo.     120  Engravings,  from  Drawings  by  F.  Cath- 
erwood,  Esq.     Muslin  gilt.     $5  00. 

XXI. 

STEPHENS'S  TRAVELS   IN   EGYPT. 
Incidents  of  Travel  in  Egypt,  Arabia  Petraea,  and  liie 
Holy  Land.     By  John  L.  Stephens.    2  vols.  12mQ.     En- 
gravings.    Muslin  gilt.     Si  75. 

XXII. 
STEPHENS'S  TRAVELS  IN   GREECE. 
Incidents  of  Travel  in  Greece,  Turkey,  Russia,  and  Po- 
land.    By  John  L.  Stephens.     2vols.  12mo.    Engravings. 
Muslin  gilt.     $1  75. 


'I,' 


I    i!. 


i^ 


rUnMSIIfM)    BY    IIAIU'F.U    Sc    UROTIIKHS. 


S. 

By  Miss  C. 
il  90. 

•  they  only  df,- 
ruNcarchcs  iiitb 
ividiiuls.  Miss 
as  an  ornaiiiont 
don  Athenetum. 

.D. 

I  of  Captain 
s  on  the  So- 
y-discovered 
re  especially 
18mo.    Mus- 


vigators,  is  ad- 
lost  interesting 


ICA. 

!hiapas,  and 
>.    Map  and 


[j.  Stephens, 
hy  F.  Cath- 


YPT. 

ffia,  and  liie 

12mo.    En- 


=  ECE. 

3sia,  and  Po- 

Engravings, 


xxiir. 

DR.   RISK'S   TRAVELS   IN   EUROPE. 

Travels  in  Europe  ;  viz.,  in  England,  Ireland,  Scotland. 

Trance,  Italy,  Switzerland,  some  Parts  of  Germany,  and 

the  iNetheriands.     13y  W.  Fisk,  D.D.     8vo.     Engravings. 

Sheep  extra.     $3  25.  ^         k  • 

XXIV. 

DR.   HUMPHREY'S   TOUR. 
ioor''^^\,°'"il^'']V  ^'■ance,  and  Belgium.     A  short  Tour  in 
gdt."'   $f  75      """"''^'■^y'  ^^     2  vols.   12/.10.     Muslin 

XXV 

MRS.  HAIGHT'S  LETTERS  FROM  THE  OLD  WORLD. 

,o-^^^"^'',V'"'""  ^^^  ^'^  ^^'"'"^''-    ^y  ^rs  Haight.    2  vols 
12mo.    Muslin  gilt.     $175. 

XXVI. 

KAY'S   RESEARCHES   IN   CAFFRARIA. 
Travels  and  Researches  in  CafTraria  ;   describing  the 
Character,  Customs,  and  Moral  Condition  of  the  Tribes 
inhabiting  that  Portion  of  Southern  Africa.     By  Stephen 
Kay.     12mo      Engravings.     Muslin.     85  cents. 

LANDERS'  TRAvVlSTO  THE  NIGER. 
Journal  of  an  Expedition  to  Explore  the  Course  and  Ter- 
mmation  of  the  Niger.  With  a  Narrative  of  a  Voyage 
down  that  River  to  its  Termination.  By  Richard  and 
John  Lander.  2  vols.  18mo.  Engravings.  Muslin  gilt. 
90  cents.  ° 

XXVIII. 

OWEN'S  VOYAGES  TO  THE  AFRICAN  COAST. 
Narrative  of  Voyages  to  explore  the  Shores  of  Africa, 
Arabia,  and  Madagascar;  performed  under  the  Direction 
of  C^ptamW.  F.W.Owen,  R.N.     2  vols.  12mo.     Muslin. 

XXIX. 

REYNOLDS'S  VOYAGE  OF  THE  FRIGATE  POTOMAC. 
Voyage  of  the  United  States  Frigate  Potomac,  during  the 
Circumnavigation  of  the  Globe,  in  the  Years  1831-1834 
By  James  N.  Reynolds.     8vo.     Engravings.     Muslin  eilt 
$3  25.  ^ 


8 


VAMAIII.r.    IJOOKS    OF    TRAVKI,. 


!• 


:l 


:i 


ii 


\i 


C  I  R  C  ll  M  N  A  V 


XXX. 

GATION 


OF  THE   GLOBE. 


An  Hislorir.il  Acroiirit  of  the  Circumnavigation  of  tho 
fJlobe,  and  ot  llin  I'ro^'rcss  of  Discovery  in  llio  Pacitic 
Ocean,  from  llie  Voyagf  ol'Ma^M'lIan  to  tlic  Death  of  Cook. 
18mo.     KngravMigs.     jMuslin  gill.     45  cents. 

X.\XI. 

EMERSON'S  LETTERS  FROM  THE  /EGEAN. 
Letters  from  the  .Kgean.     iiy  James  Emerson.     8vo. 
75  cents. 

xxxir. 
JACOBS'S  ADVENTURES  IN  THE  PACIFIC  OCEAN. 
Scenes,  Incidents,  and  .Adventures  in  the  I'acilk  Ocean, 
or  the  Islands  of  the  Australasian  Seas,  during  the  Cruise 
of  the  (Clipper  Margaret  Oakley,  under  Captain  Benjamin 
Morrell.  liy  Thomas  Jetlerson  .lacohs.  l^ino.  Muslin 
gilt.     $1  25. 

XXIII. 

ROBERTS'S  EMBASSY  TO  SIAM,  COCHIN-CHINA,  &C. 
Embassy  to  tlie  Eastern  (Courts  of  Siam,  Cochin-Clima, 
and  Muscat.     By  E.  Roberts.     8vo.     .Muslin.     $1  75. 

XXXIV. 

TASISTRO'S  RANDOM  SHOTS  AND  SOUTHERN  BREEZES. 
Random  Shots  and  Southern  Breezes.     By  i>ouis  Fitz- 
gerald Tasistro.     2  vols.  12mo.     Muslin,     f  1  50. 

XXXV. 

MACKENZIE'S   YEAR   IN   SPAIN. 
A  Year  in  Spain.     By  Alexander  Slidell  Mackenzie.     3 
vols.  12mo.     Muslin  gilt.     S2  25. 

XXXVI. 

MACKENZIE'S  SPAIN   REVISITED. 
Spain  Revisited.     By  Alexander  Slidell  Mackenzie.     2 
vols.  12mo.     Muslin  gilt.     Si  75. 

XXXVII. 

MACKENZIE'S  AMERICAN   IN   ENGLAND. 
The  American  in  England.     By  Alexander  Slidell  Mac- 
kenzie.    2  vols.  12mo.     Muslin  gilt.     $1.50. 


K\ 


.fl 


V\\ 


OBE. 

Lion  of  the 
Ih!  Pa(!iti(! 
Ii  of  Cook. 


son.     8vo. 


CEAN. 
ifui  Ocean, 
tlie  Cruiso 
Benjamin 
).     Muslin 


NA,  &C. 
liin-China, 

$1  75. 

BREEZES. 

.ouis  Fitz- 
)0. 

^. 
kenzie.     3 


kenzie.     2 


LAND, 
lidell  Mac. 


